How to attach polycarbonate - basic tips. How to attach polycarbonate - basic tips. How to attach polycarbonate to a metal and wooden frame? What and which side is the correct way to mount Cellular polycarbonate at what distance?

Cellular polycarbonate has become one of the most popular transparent materials for covering greenhouses in summer cottages. It gives the structure a beautiful appearance, transmits sunlight well and has excellent thermal insulation, and you can fix it on the roof and walls of the greenhouse yourself even in the absence of special skills.

The article discusses the main types of fastening devices for fixing the sheathing on the metal frame of the greenhouse, lists the types of connecting profiles, and also provides recommendations on how to properly secure this material and what tools are needed for this.

What tools are needed?

Before you start attaching cellular polycarbonate to the frame of the structure, you need to cut the sheets in accordance with the dimensions of the greenhouse. To fix the material on the surface of the structure, various types of fasteners are used.

And to cut the panels and cover the metal frame of the greenhouse, you will need the following tools:

• jigsaw (or sharp knife, band saw) - for cutting sheets into individual parts;
• tape measure - use it to measure the length and width of each fragment;
• electric drill and metal drills - for making holes in the structure frame;
• self-tapping screws, washers and bolts with nuts - press the skin to the surface of the frame;
• building level - needed to level the surface of the coating;
• staircase - for covering the roof of a building with polycarbonate;
• screwdriver - for quickly tightening fasteners;
• hand hacksaw for metal - used to divide connecting profiles into sections of the required length;
• vacuum cleaner - for collecting dust and small parts after completion of work.

Did you know?The largest number of greenhouses is located in Holland - the total area of ​​indoor greenhouses in this country is about 10,500 hectares.

Fastening devices

In order to attach polycarbonate to a metal frame, self-tapping screws and various types of sealing washers are used. They help securely fix the material on the frame, and they can be purchased in specialized stores.
The washers look beautiful on the surface of the greenhouse and protect it from excessive deformation. In addition, they prevent the penetration of moisture and dust into the material in the place where it is pierced with a self-tapping screw. We will tell you more about the best way to fix the skin on the metal frames of the greenhouse below.

Thermal washers made of polycarbonate

This type of fastener is made of transparent polycarbonate and can be produced in a variety of colors. The thermal washer fits tightly into the hole made and expands under thermal load, preventing deformation of the greenhouse covering.

Important!Thermal washers made of polycarbonate are universal fastening materials and can be used for cladding greenhouses with both metal and wooden frames.

Main characteristics of this type of washers:

1. The main fastener part is a volumetric washer with a hole for a self-tapping screw in the center and a wide leg, the length of which is equal to the thickness of the polycarbonate sheet.
2. In addition to the washer, the kit includes a sealing ring made of polyurethane foam and a plastic plug that fits on top. The self-tapping screw for fixing the washer is purchased separately.
3. The diameter of the fastener is 33 mm, and its thickness is 8 mm.
4. The service life of such a thermal washer is about 20 years. Fasteners are selected individually depending on the thickness of the sheets of sheathing material.
5. Thermal washer made of polycarbonate helps to achieve a tight fit of the greenhouse skin to the frame and gives the outer surface of the structure a decorative appearance.

Polypropylene washers

This type of fastener has a lower cost compared to thermal washers and is also available in various colors, but has a short service life. In addition, you need to be careful when screwing the polycarbonate to the frame using polypropylene washers - they do not have a limiting leg, so there is a risk of tightening the greenhouse skin too much and deforming the sheets.

Characteristics of polypropylene washers:

1. The key element of the washer is the polymer cover, in the center of which there is a hole for the self-tapping screw. It comes complete with a polyurethane foam O-ring and a plug.
2. It has relatively large dimensions - the diameter is 35 mm and the thickness is 12 mm.
3. To fasten such washers you need to use screws 6 mm thick.
4. The plugs do not have a layer of protective coating against ultraviolet radiation, so they quickly fade in the sun and begin to deteriorate.
5. The average service life is no more than 4 years.
6. They are universal and can be used for fastening polycarbonate sheets of any thickness.

To extend the service life of polypropylene washers, it is recommended to use them only indoors or for cladding structures located in partial shade.

This type of fastener is used primarily for cladding large structures. Washers made of stainless material are durable and reliably fix the polycarbonate to the metal frame even in strong winds.

Characteristics:

1. The kit includes a round plate-shaped metal piece with a hole for a self-tapping screw in the center, as well as an umbrella gasket made of EMDP rubber, flexible plastic or polyurethane foam.
2. The diameter of the fastener is 22 mm, and the thickness is only 2 mm.
3. Can be used to fasten panels of any thickness.
4. The material of the umbrella gasket remains elastic even at an air temperature of –15°C. It tightly presses the polycarbonate sheet to the frame, preventing moisture from getting inside the skin cells and does not loosen over time.
5. This type of fastener does not have a plug that covers the head of the fastening element from the outside, so the screws and bolts used for lining the greenhouse in this case must be made of corrosion-resistant materials.

Selecting a connection profile

When covering a greenhouse with polycarbonate, in addition to washers, special connecting profiles are also used. They are designed for hermetically sealing sheets of material at the joints and can be made of polycarbonate, plastic or aluminum.

Important!Manufacturers offer different connecting profiles for polycarbonate with thicknesses of 4, 6, 8, 10, 16, 20 and 25 mm. The edges of the sheet are fixed inside them using screws and washers.

Types of profiles for attaching polycarbonate to a greenhouse:

1. UP-end- designed to protect the polycarbonate edge from moisture and dust getting inside. The profile has a standard length of 2.01 m and there are varieties available for sale for sheets of any thickness.
   
2. K-skate- it is used to connect the joints of material on two roof slopes, provided that the angle between them is greater than 90°. The standard profile length is 6 m, and it can be used for sheets with a thickness of up to 16 mm.
   
3. Detachable NSR profile- designed for connecting adjacent polycarbonate panels and consists of a base and a removable cover. The base is attached to the greenhouse frame with self-tapping screws, and the edges of adjacent sheets are laid on it and secured on top with a lid. The standard length of the profile is 6 m; it can be used to fasten panels up to 16 mm thick.
   
4. One-piece male connector- is a monolithic H-shaped part, which has special grooves on both sides for inserting the ends of adjacent sheathing sheets. The length of the profile is 6 m, and it can be used to connect panels up to 10 mm thick.
   
5. Y-angle perpendicular- helps to join polycarbonate sheets at an angle of 90° and is used to fix the sheathing at the corners of the greenhouse. The standard profile length is 6 m, it is designed for panels up to 10 mm thick.
   
6. F-wall- used to tightly fit a polycarbonate sheet to the wall and has a length of 6 m. Manufacturers produce various versions of it for panels with a thickness of 4 to 10 mm.
   

Rules for attaching polycarbonate to the frame

In order for heat to be well retained inside the structure, and for the polycarbonate not to deform under the influence of wind and temperature changes, you need to know how to properly secure the sheathing.

In this case, the panels should be placed so that the side with the protective coating is on the outside of the greenhouse, and all joints are strictly on the metal strips of the frame.

Screws and washers must be tightened strictly at right angles to the surface of the frame. In this case, the fastening elements should not compress the skin too much.

Important!Before driving the edges of polycarbonate sheets into the profile, they need to be covered with perforated or sealing tape - this prevents moisture and dirt from getting inside the material.

Step-by-step instructions for covering a greenhouse with polycarbonate:

1. Place a layer of thermal insulating tape on the surface of the metal frame.
2. Cut the material into separate parts according to the dimensions of the greenhouse, spreading the material on a flat surface. On each part, mark the places where the sheathing will be attached to the frame.
3. Drill holes in the intended places on the polycarbonate, keeping a distance of 40–60 cm between them. The diameter of the holes made should be 2–3 mm larger than the thickness of the self-tapping screw or the leg of the thermal washer that are used for fastening.
4. Attach the cut out parts of the material to the frame of the greenhouse. Using a thin metal drill, drill holes for self-tapping screws in the metal strips so that they coincide with the holes on the sheet.
5. Place the sheathing panels aside and attach the connecting profiles to the required places of the greenhouse frame using self-tapping screws. The most convenient are split profiles, which allow you to effortlessly adjust the joints of adjacent panels to each other.
6. Place the polycarbonate on the connecting profiles and frame so that the edges of the panels fit into the corresponding grooves. The recommended gap is 2.5 cm.
7. Secure the casing to the greenhouse using self-tapping screws and washers inserted into the prepared holes on the polycarbonate panel. Insert the plugs into the washers, and then attach the upper parts of the profiles, firmly fixing the panels to the frame of the structure.
8. Remove the outer protective film from the surface of the casing. Remove construction waste.

Video: Installation and fastening of polycarbonate to a greenhouse

Sheathing a metal greenhouse frame with polycarbonate sheets yourself is not that difficult. To understand how best to fix the covering, you need to use the information presented above about the types of fasteners and strictly adhere to the listed recommendations for installing panels on the metal slats of a greenhouse.

Cellular polycarbonate is a modern material that is widely used for cladding greenhouses. It allows you to quickly and inexpensively obtain reliable translucent walls.

In this article we will tell you how to properly attach polycarbonate to a greenhouse.

Advantages of polycarbonate

Like any material, polycarbonate has both its pros and cons.

• Its main advantages include:
• Flexibility and impact resistance - it is about 20 times better than glass.
• This material does not promote combustion and has good thermal insulation due to closed air cells.
• The optimum ratio of price and quality. The average price for a 4 mm sheet 210*6000 cm is 1500-1800 rubles.
• It is not afraid of moisture, high and low temperatures, and sudden changes in humidity.
• This material is lightweight, so you will not have any problems securing a polycarbonate greenhouse to the ground. The simplest foundation or wooden frame nailed to the ground with long reinforcement is sufficient.

The main disadvantage of this material is:

• Low abrasive resistance, easy to scratch.
• It is also destroyed by ultraviolet rays, so to avoid this, manufacturers protect it with a special film.
• During installation, it is necessary to take into account the presence of a thermal gap so that during temperature changes, the casing can freely expand and contract.

Layout of sheets

The stiffening ribs in cellular polycarbonate are located along the length of the sheet, so when fastening they must be positioned so that the channels have an exit to the outside. This is necessary to drain the condensate that forms inside. That is, on vertical walls the stiffeners should be vertical, on arches along the bend of the arc.

Modern polycarbonate is made with a special protective film, which usually contains the manufacturer’s markings and logos. The layer with such a film must be laid outwards. It is better to remove it after fixing the polycarbonate to the greenhouse.

Also, when installing on arched structures, the maximum permissible sheet bending values ​​​​set by the manufacturer must not be exceeded.

cutting

The process of cutting sheets is one of the main ones, because this material is usually supplied in the form of long sheets. Their standard size is: width 210 cm, length 6 or 12 m.

The cutting process itself is very simple; for this you can use a regular hacksaw or power tool: jigsaw, circular saw. The protective film will protect the surface from scratches during cutting.

After cutting the desired sheet, you should carefully remove all the chips from the internal cavities; it is best to use a vacuum cleaner for this. This is necessary to prevent condensation from accumulating inside.

Drilling holes

Regular drills are suitable for drilling, but the holes must be made between the stiffeners, and also at least 4 cm from the edge of the panel. The size of the holes should be 1-2 mm larger than the diameter of the screws to create a temperature gap.

Note!
When installing long sheets exceeding 6 meters, you need to extend the size of the holes along the length so that they are oval.

The drilling angle must be perpendicular, otherwise it will not be possible to fix the screw and washer exactly. In this case, the tightness will be broken, the mounting location will be unreliable, and the thermal insulation will deteriorate.

Fastening panels

Attaching polycarbonate to a metal greenhouse frame can be done in two ways:

• Using a self-tapping screw with a washer and a sealing gasket.
• Using a thermal washer.

Externally, the thermal washer looks like a mushroom cap and consists of two parts: a sealing part and an upper plastic part. In the center it has a through hole for the screw head. In addition, the plastic leg, which is selected according to the thickness of the coating, prevents the bolt from being over-tightened.

After attaching the self-tapping screw, a special cap is put on it to hide it. Thus, the self-tapping screw is protected from the influence of the external environment and the cold bridge is removed. You can see its structure in the photo:

How to fix polycarbonate on a wooden greenhouse? This is done in exactly the same way, the difference with a metal frame is only in the screws used. In this case, it is better to use ordinary roofing washers for this, since they are cheaper than thermal washers.

For metal, self-tapping screws with a drill tip are usually used, and for wood, with a sharp end. They should be 4.2mm in diameter with a press washer. For fastening to wood, a screw length of 25 mm will be sufficient, and for flat metal profiles - 13 mm. The fastening should be every 30-40 cm.

Note!
When screwing self-tapping screws, do not firmly fasten them, overtighten them, or use nails, rivets, or inappropriate washers for fastening.

Cell sealing

Before attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse frame, you need to carefully seal its ends. The upper end must be sealed with regular self-adhesive tape. You need to stick a tape on the bottom and make holes in it for condensation to escape.

Joining panels

To properly connect polycarbonate to each other, you need to use special component profiles.

• A simple connecting profile for connecting two panels. In this case, the profile itself is not attached to the sheathing.
• The composite connecting profile allows you to connect 2 panels and attach them to the sheathing.
• The end profile is needed to seal the end part of the panels.
• The wall profile allows you to seal the ends and secure the edge of the panel to the wall.
• Corner profile – for mounting perpendicular corners.
• Ridge profile - for creating a joint on gable roofs of various angles.

Instructions for attaching polycarbonate to the greenhouse are shown in the video in this article:

• Between the polycarbonate sheet and the metal you need to make a heat-insulating tape.
• For attaching to. First, its lower part, the so-called base, is screwed to the frame, and then the panel is inserted into it. Before this, you need to remove the bottom protective film and bend the layer of the top film by 10 cm so that it does not interfere with installation.
• If the fastening occurs at the edge, then from its extreme part close to the composite profile you need to install an end or wall profile.
• Then you need to secure the upper part of the composite profile by simply snapping it into the base. A temperature gap of 3 mm must be left between the profile and the panel.
• For wall mounting, a wall profile is used. It is put on the end of the panel, and its second part is attached to the wall with sealant.
• Immediately after completing the installation completely, otherwise it will stick to it even more strongly.
  
• When installing arched surfaces, the length of the profile should be longer than the panels, since their sizes may differ. The excess is cut off after installation.

Conclusion

The presence of a large number of components for polycarbonate will allow you to do the installation yourself without difficulty. (see also article) All joints will be neat and airtight.

Polycarbonate structures are becoming increasingly common. Attaching polycarbonate to a metal frame has several variations, and each of them has certain advantages.

Advantages of a metal frame

Installing polycarbonate sheets on metal profiles is popular due to the speed and simplicity of the assembly process. A structure made of metal profiles looks much more aesthetically pleasing than a wooden one, and allows you to assemble a larger frame without the inconvenience of its weight.

The metal profile product has the following advantages:

• low weight of structural elements;
• ease of processing and manufacturing of workpieces with the required parameters;
• high strength compared to a wooden frame;
• invulnerability to atmospheric influences;
• no need for protection from aggressive environments.

Experts very often note a disadvantage inherent in a wooden frame. When screwing in a self-tapping screw, increased attention to its orientation is required, as it is easy to make a mistake in the direction. This occurs due to the heterogeneity of the wood - the presence of knots and seals that interfere with the advancement of the self-tapping screw. The metal structure avoids this.

There is another advantage of iron profiles, which also relates to the fastening process: metal profiles are made hollow inside. When installing polycarbonate sheets, the self-tapping screw makes a hole only on the adjacent edge of the profile. When the plastic is fixed, the self-tapping screw centers itself, thus avoiding distortion of the sheet. By fixing polycarbonate in this way, you can evenly distribute the load and set the correct direction of fastening, even if it was incorrect at the beginning of installation.

Video “Method of attaching polycarbonate to a metal frame”

From this video you will learn how to mount polycarbonate to a metal profile using simple self-tapping screws.

Preparation for installation

To assemble a beautiful and durable polycarbonate structure, you need to develop a frame drawing that will allow you to calculate the actual amount of materials needed. You should also prepare the following tools:

• selected profile type;
• drill for drilling holes for self-tapping screws;
• self-tapping screws;
• thermal washers (if necessary).

The next stage of work is the preparation of the material itself, which is carried out in this order:

1. The correct orientation of the channels is selected.
2. The polycarbonate is marked and cut according to the drawing.
3. Holes are drilled to fasten the panels to the frame in the designated locations.
4. If honeycomb plastic is chosen for assembly, it should be sealed at the ends, taking into account the degree of bending and temperature effects.
5. All components that can be connected before fastening to the steel structure should be assembled.

Mounting methods

On the modern roofing materials market you can find kits for assembling polycarbonate coverings. They will include sealing gaskets, steel or plastic washers, covers and metal screws.

Thermal washers

This fastening method is one of the most popular. The thermal washer consists of several components: an elastic sealing ring located inside a plastic washer, as well as a plug that protects the screw head from clogging.

To secure polycarbonate panels using thermal washers, you need to drill holes at the designated points. Self-tapping screws inserted into thermal washers are installed in these holes and screwed into the metal profile. It is better to fasten the panels to the frame with an assistant who will prevent the panel from moving or falling. After tightening the screws, it is necessary to install protective caps.

Thermal washers allow you to get rid of the “cold bridge” that arises due to the presence of self-tapping screws in the structure. Deformation of the panels is prevented by resting the legs on the metal. The optimal pitch for fastenings is 300–400 mm.

Thermal expansion, which is characteristic of all plastic building materials, can be compensated as follows: holes for self-tapping screws must be drilled with a larger diameter than the leg of the thermal washer. The larger the sheet size, the more elongated the holes should be.

The degree of thermal deformation of panels depends on their type and color:

• milky panels and transparent polycarbonate - 2.5 mm per 1 m;
• panels of other colors - at least 4.5 mm per 1 m.

These figures apply at temperatures up to +50 °C. Extreme temperatures from -40 to +120 °C require double calculations.

Profile connection

You can assemble a polycarbonate roof using profiles by choosing the most suitable type of structure - detachable or connecting (one-piece).

Installation of plastic panels on detachable profiles is carried out as follows:

1. Holes are drilled in the base with a pitch of 300 mm, slightly exceeding the diameter of the screws.
2. The base is installed on the metal structure and secured.
3. Polycarbonate sheets are mounted on both sides. When installing them, you must maintain a thermal gap of 3–5 mm.
4. Using a mallet, the lid is snapped onto the base and plugs are installed on both ends of the profile.

One-piece profiles are used if the panel width is in the range from 500 to 1500 mm. In this case, the plastic sheets are joined before they are installed on the frame. Connecting profiles are not attached to the frame. The process of assembling panels using one-piece profiles is much simpler, but has a drawback: installing large structures on a metal frame can be problematic.

When choosing honeycomb type sheets, it is necessary to seal the ends. Manufacturers of polycarbonate panels cover the ends with adhesive tape, which must always be removed before starting sealing work.

There are two sealing methods, which are selected depending on the location of the panels.

When assembling an arched structure, it is necessary to install perforated aluminum tape on both sides of the panel. If the direction of the panels is vertical or inclined, the upper end should be equipped with a solid tape, and the lower end with a perforated one.

A cap profile is installed on top of the ends of the panels. The best choice would be aluminum profiles, which are durable and at the same time have an aesthetic appearance. To drain condensate from the panels, several small holes must be drilled in the profile. This profile does not require special fasteners, since its design ensures a reliable connection.

Differences between cellular and monolithic polycarbonate fasteners

Cellular plastic is always attached to metal profiles using self-tapping screws or bolts. Monolithic polycarbonate can be secured using a polymer lubricant placed along the edges of the slab.

Polycarbonate began to be used in private construction not so long ago, but has already become widespread. Light weight, high strength, excellent resistance to weathering and temperature changes allowed this material to easily replace glass and certain types of coatings. Installing polycarbonate with your own hands is not difficult if you know certain rules.

Depending on the manufacturing method, polycarbonate is divided into types:

The most popular is two- and three-layer cellular polycarbonate, the thickness of the sheets varies from 4 to 35 mm. It is widely used in the assembly of greenhouses and conservatories, for canopies over swimming pools and cars, canopies of various shapes and sizes, as well as balconies and other partitions.

Thanks to its hollow structure, the material has high thermal insulation and dampens sounds well. Cellular polycarbonate transmits 80% of the light spectrum, bends well, does not burn, weighs 16 times less than glass of the same thickness and is 7 times lighter than plastic panels.

Monolithic polycarbonate in private construction is used for the manufacture of balconies and interior partitions, glazing of attic spaces and window openings. It is hundreds of times stronger than glass, yet has a very aesthetic appearance. The polycarbonate surface is resistant to mechanical stress, and therefore it is quite difficult to scratch or pierce it.

Profiled polycarbonate is thin transparent sheets of a wave-like shape. It is most suitable for the manufacture and repair of roofing. Its strength is much higher than that of a monolithic one, and its service life is calculated in decades. Even under the influence of negative temperatures, precipitation, and sunlight, the polycarbonate surface does not lose its original shape.

Position of panels during installation

When starting to install polycarbonate panels, you must follow the following rules:

• when vertically fastening sheets, the stiffeners must be directed vertically;
• when laying the coating at an angle, the stiffeners are directed along the slopes;
• When installing arches, the stiffeners are arranged along an arc.

This arrangement is required to allow condensate to escape from the cavities of the sheet, which forms due to temperature changes. For the same reason, the lower sections cannot be closed tightly. But the upper edges of the panels must be covered with a special tape or profile to prevent clogging of the cells with dust, snow, rainwater and debris.

When assembling various arches, the bend of the sheet should not exceed the radius indicated on the marking, the value of which differs for each type of panel. Failure to comply with this rule will result in damage to the panel. The outer side of the sheets is covered with a protective film with markings, and it is recommended to remove it only after installing the polycarbonate.

The standard width of a polycarbonate sheet is 2.1 m, the length of the sheets is 6 and 12 m. This is too much for arranging a canopy or partition, so the material needs to be cut. Incorrect cutting of panels damages the protective coating and edges of the polycarbonate, which can ruin the appearance of the structure. It is most convenient to use a high-speed circular saw with carbide blades for cutting. In order for the cut edges to be as smooth as possible, the disk must have small, unspaced teeth.

During the cutting process, the panel should be securely fixed to eliminate the slightest vibration. The top film cannot be removed at this stage, because it protects the coating from microscopic damage when cutting. For cut panels, the internal cavities should be cleared of chips, as they will prevent the free flow of condensate.

Rules for drilling holes

To drill polycarbonate panels, use standard drills of various diameters. There are several important rules:

• the minimum permissible distance from the edge of the panel to the hole is 4 cm;
• holes for fasteners should be located between the stiffeners;
• the diameter of the mounting holes should exceed the cross-section of the thermal washer leg by 2-3 mm;
• the minimum drilling angle is 90 degrees, the maximum is 118 degrees;
• The sharpening angle of the drill is 30 degrees.

Failure to comply with these rules will lead to deformation and distortion of the sheet during installation, and will also reduce the reliability of fastening and thermal insulation of the material. When fastening long sheets, all holes must have an ellipsoidal shape and be directed along the stiffeners.

To attach polycarbonate sheets to metal and other surfaces, self-tapping screws equipped with thermal washers are used. The leg of the thermal washer must correspond to the thickness of the panel: legs that are too short will lead to overtightening of the fasteners and sagging of the sheet; legs that are too long will not be able to ensure a tight fit of the material. Self-tapping screws are placed no more often than every 30-40 cm. Panels cannot be secured with nails or rivets.

Adjacent panels are connected to each other by detachable and one-piece profiles. These parts make it possible to assemble a structure of any size and configuration from sheets without much effort.

Connection with detachable profiles

Detachable profiles are designed for connecting panels with a thickness of 6 to 16 mm. They are made of two parts: a base and a lid with a lock. Each profile is capable of holding 2 sheets 50-105 cm wide; in areas adjacent to the wall, a wall profile is used, and to connect panels at right angles, a corner profile is used. All types of profiles are fastened with self-tapping screws.

The panels are installed as follows:

• drill the lower part of the profile in several places;
• attach the base to the longitudinal frame;
• lay the material on both sides of the profile, leaving a gap of at least 5 mm;
• take a wooden hammer and use it to click the lid;
• the ends of the outer profiles are covered with dense plugs.

Connection with permanent profiles

The width of the profile grooves must necessarily correspond to the thickness of the sheets - 4-6 mm, 8 or 10 mm. Panels of the required size are inserted into the grooves, and then the profiles are attached to the longitudinal frame of the structure. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners; the fastening step is 30 cm. This method is used mainly for sealing the edges of panels of vertical structures that are not subject to heavy loads. This is due to the low reliability of the connections and low sealing of the joints between the sheets.

End sealing

Cellular polycarbonate requires mandatory sealing of joints and ends. The upper sections are usually covered with self-adhesive aluminum tape, but ordinary tape cannot be used for these purposes. Polycarbonate end profiles are attached on top of the aluminum tape; they are very reliable and aesthetically pleasing. The lower sections cannot be sealed, otherwise condensation will accumulate inside the cavities and, when frozen, destroy the cells. To protect the lower ends, perforated self-adhesive tape and the same end profile are used, in which holes should be made for water drainage.

In places where maximum tightness is required, aluminum profiles with rubber seals are used. On arches, both ends are covered with perforated tape. Leaving the top or bottom cuts open is unacceptable.

Calculation of thermal expansion

When installing panels yourself, you should take into account the deformation of the material due to temperature fluctuations. Transparent cellular polycarbonate, as well as white panels, have an expansion coefficient of 0.065 mm per degree per square meter of area. Calculating the permissible expansion is not difficult: first, determine the largest difference in annual temperature, and then multiply it by a coefficient.

For example, if the highest temperature reached plus 50 degrees, and the lowest was minus 40 degrees, the difference is 90; multiplying it by 0.065 gives 5.85 mm per square meter. That is, an arch 10 m long on a hot day can further lengthen by 58.5 mm.

Colored polycarbonate tends to heat up 10-15 degrees more, so the expansion coefficient is 6.5 mm. The lower the temperature difference, the less the material expands. Thermal gaps in ridge and corner joints, as well as in places where screws are attached, help avoid serious deformations and ruptures of the coating.

Video - DIY polycarbonate installation

Having chosen this material, you should choose the right product that best suits the required conditions. For any design, there are parameters that determine the choice - this is the ambient temperature (it cannot be influenced); indoor temperature (set by standards), design loads on the structure (depending on the region) and your taste. However, not the least important place in the selection parameters is played by quality of material. After all, only serious factories produce high-quality material, with a 10-year guarantee and a service life of 25-30 years.

These recommendations for installation, transportation and storage are based on many years of experience at manufacturing plants ( Polygal And Carboglass) cellular polycarbonate and will give you the opportunity to properly use the material.

For safe operation when installing slabs, you should:

• Follow safety rules when working at height.
• Beware of slippery surfaces.
• Beware of losing your balance in windy weather.

Installation of polycarbonate slabs in flat, pitched and vertical structures (single-pitched, gable roofs, pyramid structures)

When designing a supporting structure, it is necessary to take into account that the slabs must be mounted in such a way that the polycarbonate stiffeners are positioned strictly from top to bottom to allow condensate to escape.

At the same time, for panels installed in a flat horizontal position, an inclination angle of at least 5˚ is required.

The calculation was made for a wind and snow load of 180 kg/m2.

To properly manufacture the supporting structure and avoid large waste, it is recommended to check the dimensions of polycarbonate plates and the installation method with specialists. Also, before installing polycarbonate, it is necessary to complete all welding and painting work on the structure.

Components used for installation of polycarbonate plates

End tapes (top sealing, bottom perforated)

End profile UP

Connecting profile (one-piece HP, detachable HCP, aluminum clamping strip)

Ridge profile RP (depending on design)

Angular profile (depending on design)

Wall profile FP (depending on design)

Self-tapping screws with sealing rubber washers (with a drill for metal structures, without a drill for wooden frames)

1. Polycarbonate sheets have protective packaging film on both sides. Under the film with factory markings is the front side, which has a UV protective layer that protects the polycarbonate from exposure to hard UV radiation. The reverse side has a transparent or plain film. Important! The polycarbonate is installed with the front side (UV protective layer) facing the sun outward. Otherwise, the service life of the panel will be shortened. ( The manufacturer's warranty does not apply to panels installed in violation of the instructions).

2. For storage and transportation, the ends of the polycarbonate panels are protected with temporary tape. During installation, the temporary tape should be removed and installed: a sealing tape - along the upper edge (to protect the upper ends), and a perforated tape - along the bottom (to allow condensation to escape from the cells and protect the sheets from dust). All open channels of the panels must be taped with end tape.

3. The tapes must be closed with end profiles (if the edge of the panel does not go into grooves or other profiles). In profiles that are attached to the bottom edge of the panel, it is necessary to brighten drainage holes with a diameter of 2-3 mm in increments of 300 mm. During installation, it is necessary that the short flange of the end profile is on the outside. For strength, the end profile is attached to small screws or drops of transparent silicone sealant.

4. Immediately before installation, the packaging film must be partially removed from the sheets, but so as not to mix up the sides. Please note that premature removal of the protective film may damage the panel. Immediately after installation, all packaging film is completely removed!

To connect polycarbonate panels, various types of profiles are used, which are selected depending on the supporting structure.

One-piece polycarbonate connection profile HP:

Designed for connecting sheets together. The profile is attached directly to the structure through a self-tapping screw, the edges of the panel on both sides are inserted into the profile, and the panels are attached to the structure along the lathing using self-tapping screws with sealing rubber washers. Convenient for vertical, horizontal and pitched structures.

One-piece connection profile HP

It should be remembered that HP type profiles (4 and 6 mm) do not provide reliable sealing of the joint.

Wall polycarbonateF-profile

Designed both for sealing panels and for attaching the edges of panels to the base of the wall. Attached using self-tapping screws.

Wall profile FP

Corner polycarbonate profile

Designed for connecting panels in the corners of structures.

Corner profile

Ridge polycarbonate profile

Designed for connecting polycarbonate panels in a ridge up to 120˚ (in gable structures, in pyramid structures).

Ridge profile

Detachable polycarbonate connection profile

Includes

1) a base on which the ends of the joined sheets are placed along their length; it is attached to the sheathing through the center using self-tapping screws.

2) a lid that is attached to the bottom by hand pressure or using a mallet with a rubber tip.

This profile is convenient for connecting long sheets on a roof slope or in arched structures.

Detachable connection profile

HCP type profiles (8, 10 and 16 mm) provide both reliable joint sealing and high panel clamping force, which allows you to do without additional fasteners. In this case, the width of the mounted panel should not exceed 800-900 mm (8 and 10 mm panels) and 1200-1400 mm for 16 mm panels.

If you cannot avoid installing panels with an overlap, the recommended amount of overlap for the transverse (on the short side of the panel) joint should be 100-140 mm, and for the longitudinal joint - 70-80 mm.

When using their own or custom-made profiles, the customer should take into account the required clamping width of the panel edges in the profile wings - a minimum of 12.7 mm for panels 6-10 mm and a minimum of 19 mm for panels 16-25 mm plus a margin for thermal expansion. (For example, for a transparent panel 6 mm thick with a width of 1 m, a clamp equal to 12.7 + 2.5 = 15.2 mm will be required. For a bronze panel 16 mm with a panel width of 1600 mm, a clamp equal to 19 + (4.4 x 1 ,6) = 26 mm.) In regions with high design wind and/or snow loads, the given minimum values ​​should be increased by one and a half times. When installing panels indoors (in the absence of high loads), it is possible to reduce the indicated values ​​by 3 times, but in any case, the size of the groove cannot be less than 5 mm.

Interpanel connection

1. Fastening of polycarbonate sheets is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubber sealing washers, along the entire sheathing, in increments of 400-600 mm.

2. For each self-tapping screw, it is necessary to pre-drill a hole, the center of the axis of which should be located no closer than 36 mm from the edge of the panel. The diameter of the hole should be 2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw to allow thermal expansion and contraction of the material. This coefficient for transparent panels is 2.5 mm/m, for colored panels – 4.5 mm/m.

3. When fastening self-tapping screws, avoid excessive tightening, which can lead to deformation of the sheet surface. It is important to tighten the bolts perpendicular to the surface to avoid damage.

5. It should be remembered that it is allowed to overhang the edge of the panel beyond the supporting structure by no more than 10 cm, but not less than 3 cm.

Attention! Do not leave panels unattended on the roof or installation site unless they are properly secured and all mounting bolts are in place. During installation, ensure that the panels are protected from sudden gusts of wind.

Polycarbonate panels are installed with cellular channels only towards the arched surface.

Incorrect material positioning

The correct location is in the direction of the arch

Polycarbonate sheets can be bent into an arch to the minimum permissible radius without mechanical damage to the surface. Moreover, the internal pressure that occurs during compression gives the structure additional strength and rigidity. The smaller the compression radius (up to the minimum permissible), the higher the rigidity of the structure.

Important! Compression and twisting of the panel exceeding the minimum permissible radius leads to increased pressure and surface deformation, resulting in bursting or breaking of the sheet. Panels installed in violation of the minimum bending radius are not covered by the factory warranty!

Minimumacceptableradiusbendingsheets (R)

For installation in arched structures, panels are prepared in the same way as for pitched structures. Important! For an arched installation, when both ends of the panel with open channels are located at the bottom, only perforated tape is used. The panels are connected using connecting profiles and roofing screws with sealing washers (see Fig. Preparing panels for installation, Methods for connecting and fastening panels, Interpanel connection). Please note that it is difficult to connect panels with a one-piece connecting profile, so it is recommended to use a detachable connecting profile. If the use of a one-piece connecting profile is necessary, then the profile must be greater than the thickness of the polycarbonate (for example, when connecting polycarbonate sheets 4 mm thick, you need to use an HP profile for 6 mm, etc.).

The panels are transported in a truck that has a body of suitable dimensions with a flat floor without protruding bumps. For panels with a thickness of 4-8 mm, protrusion beyond the dimensions of the body is not allowed; panels with a thickness of 10-16 mm can protrude beyond the body by no more than 0.8-1 m. Panels should only be transported in a horizontal position; they can be folded one on top of the other , larger thicknesses at the bottom, smaller thicknesses at the top, avoiding surfaces that sag without support.

In case of emergency, it is possible to transport the panels rolled up in a closed vehicle, but it is necessary that the internal width and height of the body correspond to the minimum permissible bending radius of the panel. For short-distance transportation, it is permissible for the internal width of the body to be 10% less than permitted. (The POLYGLAS SPb company does not recommend such transportation and does not take responsibility for possible damage to panels transported in this way.)

Polycarbonate storage

Polycarbonate panels should be stored without disturbing the original packaging. The panels should be reloaded or moved carefully so as not to break the packaging film or damage the panel itself.

Polycarbonate panels are stored horizontally on a flat surface (pallets, cardboard, etc.). Storing slabs on the ground is not permitted.

It is necessary to store polycarbonate indoors, avoiding overheating of the panels in the sun.

Do not leave panels with open ends for a long time, as the channels can become clogged with dust and insects can get into them.

Cutting polycarbonate

Cutting of cellular polycarbonate is done using a circular saw (“parquet”, “grinder”, jigsaw) or other suitable cutting equipment, including hand-held equipment, which should have a small, straight tooth at an angle of inclination close to 30°. Sawdust that is formed during cutting with a saw should be thoroughly cleaned with a jet of air under pressure or any other available method. During cutting, the polycarbonate should be pressed firmly against the table surface to prevent vibration or movement. If you need to cut slabs of small thickness (4-6 mm), you can use a wide knife or metal scissors.

Washing polycarbonate boards

Polycarbonate can be washed with a soft sponge/rag/brush and warm soapy water. You can use any soap (including laundry soap), dishwashing detergents and window cleaners containing alcohol (but not containing acetone or ammonia); be sure to rinse off the soap so that no stains or streaks remain.

Do not use scrapers, knives or other sharp objects.

Do not use products containing acetone, ammonia, or ethers.