How to make a roof for one. How to make a gable roof: step-by-step instructions in photos and videos. Main docking points

The roof is one of the main elements in the construction of a house. Its design and construction should be approached responsibly, avoiding the slightest errors. It’s not for nothing that roofers are considered the most highly paid craftsmen, because the service life and reliability of the roof depend on the quality of their work.

In this article we will answer the question: how to build a roof for a house with your own hands.

Project selection

It is difficult to choose a roof design, since there are many options for classic construction. Each of them has a number of advantages. Most often, the choice falls on a budget-friendly and easy-to-implement version of a gable roof.

Calculation of basic parameters

At the design stage, all parameters necessary for the construction of the structure are calculated.

All indicators must correspond to the climate of the region, the material used for the walls of the structure, as well as minor architectural nuances.

The following parameters are calculated:

calculations of rafters and slopes are made according to general requirements, with the exception of complex roofs;
the distance between the rafters is determined so that it is convenient to lay thermal insulation;
for the frame, beams and boards, universal sizes are often used. For example, for the Mauerlat - parts with a section of 15x15 cm, for puffs 5x15 cm;
The height of the rafter legs is calculated taking into account the thickness of the insulation. Also, between the heat insulator and the vapor barrier film, you need to leave a distance of 30-40 mm;
The correct roof slope is 40-45 degrees; when building a pitched roof with your own hands, the slope should be 25-30 degrees.

When performing calculations, you should indicate some parameters - the weight of wooden parts, calculation of vapor and waterproofing, determination of secondary loads. All indicators are calculated using formulas available on the Internet.

Selection of materials

For a private house, the rafter system is built from wooden beams, and all additional parts are made from boards. The materials used must be of high quality without signs of rotting, deformation, etc. This can lead to a short service life and low structural reliability.

The choice of materials involves taking into account the following features:

the choice of insulation is based on the climatic conditions of the region, and on whether the attic will be used as a living space.
The heat insulator must be of high quality - not absorb moisture and not succumb to rot. Today, the most common are mineral wool slabs and polyurethane foam;
vapor and waterproofing films serve as a barrier to the penetration of moisture and the accumulation of condensation in the room. When purchasing materials, you should carefully study the characteristics, especially the service life of the material;
external roof coverings are purchased taking into account the slope of the slope and the amount of precipitation. Popular - corrugated sheets, ceramic tiles. For each roof, selection is carried out individually, since the slope of the slopes is different.

In fact, the answer to the question - how to make the roof of a house with your own hands - is simple. The main thing is to make the right choice of materials that must meet the performance characteristics, as well as draw up a competent drawing with accurate calculations.

Roof elements

Each roof has a base consisting of certain elements. On the diagram of the roof of the house with your own hands, you can clearly see all the details and their correct placement.

Depending on the type of roof chosen, the names of the elements change, but there is a list of the main ones for all types:

Mauerlat is a beam that is laid along the perimeter of the walls of the structure and acts as a support for the remaining elements;
Rafters forming the roof frame of the required shape. They are made of beams located at an equal distance from each other.
The ridge is the area where the slopes meet. A ridge is not needed on pitched roofs.
Sheathing - installed from boards that serve as the basis for laying insulation and fixing the external cladding of the roof.

Basics of insulation

When insulating the roof of a house yourself, you need to take into account all the details - from materials to installation. To preserve heat, mineral wool slabs that have a long service life are laid inside the room.

Work with insulation includes the following stages:

The mineral wool should be no thicker than 4 centimeters than the height of the rafters. Otherwise, you will have to additionally stuff the slats onto the entire support in order to achieve an equal height. This is necessary to protect against condensation accumulation.
The thermal insulation material is placed very tightly between the rafters, and the remaining openings are filled with polyurethane foam.

Conclusion

Before you begin designing and constructing a roof, carefully select all materials, familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics, and take into account the climate of the region. To have a visualization of the finished result, look at the photo of the roof of the house, made by yourself.

Correct calculation of all indicators will allow you to create a high-quality roof that will serve for many years.

Photo of the roof of the house with your own hands

Many owners of suburban plots prefer to build a house themselves. The final stage of building construction is the construction of the roof. Having certain skills, you can reduce the labor costs of hired workers and do the work yourself. Many people do not know how to make a roof - in such cases it is better to use the help of qualified workers.

Types of roofs being built

First of all, you need to determine the type of roof, prepare the necessary tools and materials. Construction of the roof is one of the important stages of building a house.

To make a roof, you will need to choose its type wisely. The simplest designs that you can make yourself include gable roofs with straight frames.

Covering the roof with one slope will save material. If you make such a roof frame with your own hands, the labor intensity of the work will be less, and the installation speed, on the contrary, will be higher. But this method has several disadvantages. The first of them is not the most attractive: there is no possibility to equip an attic or attic. In this case, the roof space is too low.

Very often, a gable roof of a private house is installed with your own hands. It is easy to make and allows you to get more space. Compared to four slopes, it has less complexity and weight. Also in this case less material is required. The roof of a house differs significantly from other types. In this case, you need to make triangular gables at the ends of the building.

Before you build your own four-beam roof, you'll have to do some serious preparation. This design has more elements compared to previous roofs. Besides, in the attic there is no way to make full windows, since the design is devoid of pediments. Installing the roof with your own hands in this case involves installing attic windows and dormer windows. They are designed for lighting and evacuation.

A combined design would be an excellent option. It can combine characteristics of all these types. Another option for an attic is to build a roof with broken slopes. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make your home more comfortable.

Materials for work

The modern construction industry offers a huge number of traditional and innovative roofing materials. To understand all their diversity, you need to consider in detail the main types of parameters. However, first it is worth understanding what principles are used when choosing certain roofing materials. The choice of material depends on many factors:

The modern market is full of various roofing materials. They must not only be strong enough. A prerequisite is the ability to withstand various negative atmospheric factors.

Erection of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of tools and materials.

In particular, you will need:

Construction methodology

Let's look at how to make a roof correctly. To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account snow and wind loads in existing climatic conditions- the smaller the angle, the better the structure can withstand loads. But a small angle (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.

The shape and structure of the roof are designed in accordance with the project plan: the key supports of the roof system must coincide with the lines and points of the supporting structures of the lower floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house and the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not planned to be used as a living space, you can build a reliable roof with multi-layer rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to a track that supports posts resting on an internal support wall.

If you decide to install the gable roof yourself, you should carefully read the step-by-step instructions. The functional parameters of the roof also depend on the correct insulation, characteristics and quality of installation of the finishing coating.

Independent Mauerlat device

Before you can reliably build the roof of a house, you need to take care of fastening the mauerlat - the wooden frame of the house, which serves as the boundary of the transition from the stone to the wooden part.

Block it in these ways:

The fill strengthens the belt around the perimeter and fixes the studs in it. The stud pitch should be from 1 to 1.5 meters.
Then the studs are fixed in the last rows of the house's masonry.

Cutting and installation of rafters

The rafters are the most difficult part of the job. It is important not only to mount the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. If it is skewed, the entire roof will “walk,” which is bad for the house.

Now it is necessary to cut off the upper edge of the board so that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be connected by cutting edges without voids or gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, lean it against the mauerlat and raise it to the desired angle. In the center, overlapping the floor towards the rafters, you need to draw a line. This will be the cutting line for the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter we get an inclined cut. All rafters, cut with a pattern, are assembled securely at the top using brackets, ties and bolts.

Roof gable installation

The pediment is a continuation of the wall, limited by the slopes of the roof. If there is a gable roof, then the gables of the house are triangular. When installing a structure, the first parts are first installed, which subsequently serve as a frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structure and ensure that they are of the same height. A mountain ridge is attached to the upper part of the gables, onto which the remaining rafter structures are later mounted.

Usually, gables are sewn up after roofing work, but this can be done at an earlier stage. Installation of boards 50 x 100 or 50 x 150 mm is carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which can be built with your own hands, is often equipped with windows. It is necessary to provide insulation of gables.

Installation of frame and roofing pie

Continuing the topic, it is worth noting that the next stage will be the installation of the frame and construction roofing pie. Once the system is ready, it is necessary to lay the frame, which will become the basis for other materials of the pie - vapor and waterproofing, as well as for other insulating and roofing materials.

The roof covering can be installed from unedged boards 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards depends on the final roofing material. The heavier, the smaller the rack pitch should be. Usually it is 30 cm.

Important: It is advisable to lay a layer of vapor barrier under the frame. It will protect the insulation from evaporation from the house. The boards are already installed on top of the barrier.

Now, perpendicular to the tree, you need to lay the beam in steps equal to the width of the slabs or rolls of insulating material. Insulation is placed between them, carefully in the existing grooves.

Everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing on top and fixed with another perpendicular frame (in this case, horizontal). And the last roofing material is already installed on it.

At the very end of the roof installation, a drainage system must be installed in the house. It is made from cut plastic pipes, they are purchased in advance. Now all that remains is to sew up the roof with the selected material.

DIY roof covering

The plank is placed on the rafter system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, and installation method. If the use of flexible materials is required (tiles, rolled bitumen), it is necessary to make an even frame.

Work on laying roof tiles is carried out in the following order:

Overlap must be reinforced in each wave. When covering the roof with metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening the sheets and the accuracy of their connection.

When installing the roof, everything must be done as carefully as possible, otherwise heat losses will be very significant. Typically, a gable roof is immediately made taking into account the use of various materials. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of thermal insulation and vapor barrier systems. It is recommended to carry out the construction of a gable roof in stages with assistants. Compliance with work technology allows us to build a reliable, durable structure.

Can an ordinary home craftsman build the roof of a house with his own hands? At first glance, the task seems quite difficult, but after practicing at my own dacha, I realized that everything is possible. I will show you step by step and tell you how to make a roof with your own hands, what components it consists of, and what roofs in private houses generally are like.

Briefly about types of roofs and general terminology

Before making a roof, you need to understand what structures exist and what their main elements are called. Otherwise, you will not understand anything in the specialized literature, plus it will be difficult for you to talk with sellers in a store or at the market.

Which design is better to go with?

Types of roofs	Short description
	Single-pitch. The simplest, most affordable and economical option in terms of materials. The problem is that it is not suitable for medium and large houses. Most often, a pitched roof is installed on garages, sheds and other outbuildings.
	Gable or forceps. A traditional and quite convenient design that is suitable for any home with a rectangular or square “box”. Now more than half of the owners of private houses and summer cottages choose a gable roof.
	Tent. The hipped roof looks like a tetrahedral pyramid consisting of isosceles triangles with a common vertex. Nowadays it is rare, the main reason lies in the complexity of the beam-tensioning system on which this design is based.
	Four-slope or hip. This design is also based on a beam-tensioning system, but is more common than a tent structure. Amateurs should not undertake these types of roofs.
	Half-hip. In the classic version, the half-hip roof is no longer used. The structure is assembled according to a gable rafter scheme using tie rods and upward-curved “fillies”.
	Multi-slope. Of all existing multi-pitched roofs, it is considered one of the most complex structures. It is installed only on buildings with an “original” layout or houses with several extensions. Only highly qualified professionals can work with such roofs.
	Attic. This type of roof is only slightly inferior in popularity to the gable structure. People are attracted to residential attic space. You can build a mansard roof with your own hands, but you need some experience, so it’s better to start with a gable roof.

After analyzing the popular types of structures, I realized that for an amateur, the optimal solution would be to install a gable roof.

General terminology

Ribs- all external corners and bends, except the top edge, are called ribs;
Valva- front plane in a multi-slope roof;
Endova- internal angle between adjacent planes on roofs with several slopes;
Horse- the upper edge of the roof where the slopes meet. There is no ridge on a hipped or lean-to structure;
Dormer window- a small triangular or spherical insert into the roof slope with a window frame inside. It is mounted more for decoration; there is little functional load on the dormer window. Amateurs should not mess with such designs;
Eaves overhang- this is a section of the lower part of the roof, or rather everything that is outside the wall. It is to the edge of the cornice that rain drains are attached;
Gable- a vertical sector on the facade of the building located between the roof slopes;
Gable overhang- lateral inclined cut of the roof plane.

Now let's figure out what the internal roof structures are called.

Mauerlat- a support beam that is mounted on the walls along the perimeter of the house frame; it can also be called the roof foundation. The cross-section depends on the weight of the roof and the dimensions of the house; most often it ranges from 100x100 mm to 200x200 mm;
Rafter legs- perhaps the main element of the structure; the entire roof rests on them. In a gable roof they meet at an angle and form a stable isosceles triangle. For medium-sized houses, beams of 50x150 mm are taken, and in large houses 100x150 mm or 100x200 mm;
Rack- a vertical beam supporting the rafter legs. Can be based on ceiling beams or planks;
Lezhny- this is something like a Mauerlat, only the beds are installed not along the perimeter of the box, but on the walls of a large house. These elements are only used in the "layered" system, which I will mention later;
Puff or crossbar - a horizontal beam that connects two adjacent rafters of a gable roof and forms an isosceles triangle with them, thereby increasing the strength of the entire structure;
Run- mounted in cases where the tie-rods are not installed on all rafter pairs. Purlins are needed for additional support of the rafter legs and saving timber;
Ridge beam- (it is not indicated on this diagram) is mounted horizontally and installed at the top point of the gable roof directly under the connection of the rafter legs or between the rafter legs.

Preparation and installation of a gable structure

At the preparation stage, you calculate the rafter system, draw a sketch or drawing, after which you purchase material and prepare the tools.

Roof calculation

The first thing you need to know is the angle of the roof plane. All pitched systems are divided into 3 types:

Flat roofs - in them the angle of inclination does not exceed 5º. They are practically not found in residential buildings;
Roofs with an average slope - here the slope should be from 5º to 30º. Well suited for steppe areas where there are strong winds and little snow;
Roofs with a steep slope - these include all slopes with a slope of more than 30º. These roofs are installed in areas with snowy winters, because the steeper the slope, the faster the snow will melt off it.

As for the calculations themselves, here you need to divide the height of the roof from the attic floor to the ridge by half the length of the horizontal span. If you want to get the value as a percentage, then multiply the result by 100%.

Illustration	The difference between a layered system and a suspended system
	Hanging system. The rafters in this system are installed only on the mauerlat between the load-bearing walls. If the rafters are supported by posts, then the posts are attached to the ceiling beams.
	Layered system. This system differs from a suspended one in that the racks supporting the rafters are based both on the load-bearing walls and on the piers inside the house.

Tools and materials

From the tool you will need:

Axe;
Hand saw on wood and metal;
Chainsaw or electric saw;
Hammer;
Plane;
Drill;
Screwdriver;
Set of open-end wrenches.
Tape measure, level, plumb line.

It is advisable to knock down at least 1 stand from the boards for working at heights, popularly called a “goat”.

Materials:

Beam for rafter legs- the most common section is 50x150 mm;
Beam under the mauerlat- you can take a solid beam or assemble it from material under the rafter legs. In both cases the price is approximately the same;
Beams for tightening, purlins and racks– I took a 50x50 mm block, but you can use a 50x150 mm rafter beam;
Bars for counter lathing- standard section 30x40 mm;
Board for roofing sheathing- matched to the roofing material, the most common option is an unedged board;
Metal studs with threads and nuts for them - cross-section 12–14 mm;
Mounting angles and plates- sold ready-made with holes for self-tapping screws;
Self-tapping screws
Nails- in assortment starting from length 50 mm and more;
Metal staples- made from reinforcement or rolled steel with a thickness of 10 mm or more.

Mauerlat installation

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Arrangement of the block base. If the house is block (brick, cinder block), then under the mauerlat you need to pour a reinforced concrete belt on top of the wall. The height of the belt is 250–300 mm, the width of the belt is equal to the thickness of the wall. You make wooden formwork, put a reinforcement cage inside and fill everything with concrete.
	Laying the studs. Even before pouring the concrete, you need to vertically install a series of threaded studs or simply pieces of reinforcement in the center of the future piping in increments of 0.6–1 m. The Mauerlat will then be attached to them. In houses made of aerated concrete, a reinforced concrete belt is poured directly inside the U-shaped shaped aerated concrete blocks.
	Mauerlat in a wooden house. In wooden houses there is no Mauerlat as such; its function is performed by a beam or log of the upper frame.
	Leveling the base. The base under the Mauerlat must be perfectly level; if you missed this point at first, you will need to level it before installation. The base can be leveled with cement-sand mortar or glue for aerated concrete blocks (glue is used in houses made of aerated concrete).
	We arrange waterproofing. The timber should not be in direct contact with the concrete, so before laying the Mauerlat we cover the roofing material on top, preferably in 2 layers.
	Installation of timber. We drill holes in the Mauerlat for the studs embedded in the wall, put the beam on the studs and pull it to the wall. Be sure to place a wide washer on top and tighten the fastening. A solid beam is joined into half a tree, that is, you make a cutout as in the photo, join two sectors and drive 5-7 long screws or nails on top. If the Mauerlat is assembled from rafter beams, then they are simply laid out staggered and fastened with self-tapping screws.
	Mauerlat. There are cases when the Mauerlat is assembled from pieces laid between the floor beams, but the strength of such a structure is much lower, plus you will need 2 times more anchors for fastenings.
	Wood processing. Absolutely all the wood that goes into the construction of the roof must be treated at least 2 times with antiseptics and fire retardants, otherwise the roof will last no more than 10–15 years, then it will be eaten by bugs.
	Wood moisture. You cannot make a roof from freshly cut timber; during the drying process under load, the beams and boards may bend or begin to crack. To reduce costs, you can take freshly cut timber in advance and stack it under a canopy; the wood will dry over the season; the stacking procedure is shown in the diagram on the left.

Installation of truss structure

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Installing the outer rafters. The first 2 triangles to be placed are at the edges. To keep them from wobbling, I reinforced both triangles with a temporary stand and a diagonal support. In addition, I also secured the temporary vertical stand with two boards diagonally.
	Starting fastenings for rafters. I installed 50x150 mm bars on the Mauerlat and secured them with metal corners. The bars are cut at the angle of the roof. Please note: the corners are attached to 8 self-tapping screws (4x4) and are installed only on one, outer side.
	Fixing rafters from below. As the rafter legs are installed, the base of the beam is clamped with the same stop and fastened with self-tapping screws. Later, in addition to the self-tapping screws, I plan to tighten this entire structure with a 12 mm through pin.
	Additional fixation. In principle, such fasteners are sufficient, but to be sure, I decided to support the rafter leg from below with triangles.
	On the outer rafter triangles, I placed 2 metal corners from the inside. A metal trim is screwed on the outside, and then the pediment will be sheathed on top with 25 mm boards and siding.
	Gain. In addition, 1 m from the mauerlat on the outer rafters, I attached additional supporting posts.
	Ridge beam. I put a ridge beam on top, for this I attached 2 tie rods (crossbars) to the rafters with a gap of 150 mm, inserted a beam between them and secured it with metal corners on self-tapping screws.
	Extension. The ridge beam was longer than the rafter leg, so it had to be extended. I put 2 overlays from the same timber on the sides and pulled it all together on both sides with 12 mm studs.
	Fixing the rafters from above. My rafters were 6 m long, and the entire span was 7 m wide. At the top point, the load was significant, especially in the outer triangles, so I cut out linings from a 5 mm thick steel sheet, drilled them and tightened them with five studs.
	Fastening the puffs(crossbars). Intermediate crossbars on the outer rafter triangles are inserted inside and fixed with metal plates on both sides.
	Hairpins. All other rafter triangles are fastened with two ties (one tie on each side). The ties on the rafters are secured with two studs and four self-tapping screws.
	Pull the cord. After the final installation of the outer rafter triangles, a cord is pulled between them. This guideline will help us align all the other rafters in the same plane.
	Planting the rafters. In my case, each rafter at the point of connection with the Mauerlat was trimmed, as shown in the photo. But this is not the only option for connecting the rafter leg to the Mauerlat.
	Rafter planting options. Option A - we wrap the rafter leg around the mauerlat; Option B - not only the rafter leg is trimmed, but also the mauerlat itself; Option B - the rafter leg is cut at an angle, but to prevent the cutout from slipping, stops are still attached to the beam on both sides; Option D is the same as option B, only in it the rafter leg is not cut off near the mauerlat, but continues for at least another half a meter and you get a ready-made eaves overhang. There are also cuts with a “tooth”, but they require experience and special tools.
	Docking in a wooden house. In a wooden house, the rafters cannot be rigidly attached to the mauerlat; when they shrink, they will warp. For fixation, a floating mount is used here; in the photo on the left you can see how it works.
	fillies. My eaves overhang turned out to be a continuation of the rafters. If the length of the rafters is not enough, then they are rested against the mauerlat or extended floor beams, and the eaves overhang is increased due to the so-called “fillies”. Usually these are bars with a cross-section of 50x100 mm, which are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws. Each such block should overlap the rafters by at least half a meter and hang over the wall by the same distance.
	Rafter system. The assembly of the rafter system is completed, now I will show you how to properly mount the under-roof sheathing.

Roof installation rules

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	We mount the drip. The first to be mounted on the edge of the gable overhang is a “drip cap” - a corner made of a thin metal sheet, which is needed to seal the cut. To do this, I cut niches in the rafters and fill them with 25x150 mm boards on both sides, so as to form a corner. A dropper is attached to this outer corner with self-tapping screws.
	Barrier for thermal insulation. A barrier is inserted and fixed between the rafters parallel to the wall; it will prevent the internal under-roof thermal insulation from sliding down. I made the barrier from a 25x150 mm board. The board is attached at 3 points with self-tapping screws, along the edges to the rafters and below to the mauerlat. The screws are driven at an angle.
	Glue the tape. In order for the waterproofing membrane to fit tightly to the drip edge, I first glue “K2” butyl rubber tape to the edge, and then glue double-sided tape onto it.
Laying the membrane. On the sides, the membrane should extend beyond the wall by 15 cm; The membrane is rolled out horizontally; The lower edge of the membrane is glued to double-sided tape; The canvas itself is attached to the rafters with a stapler.
	Counter-lattice. As soon as one strip of the membrane is secured, we begin to attach the counter-lattice. I used a 30x40 mm block and screwed it to the rafters with 80x5 mm self-tapping screws. It is desirable that all self-tapping screws be stainless steel coated.
	Seal. At the bottom of the counter-lattice bars I glued strips of cross-linked polyethylene 3 mm thick; on one side this tape has an adhesive layer. With such a seal, the strip holds the membrane along the entire line of contact, moisture cannot penetrate under the strip, plus the staples from the stapler are closed.
	Fastening the sheathing. The pitch of the outer sheathing depends on what type of roof you have; in my case, metal tiles will be installed, so I fill the boards with a pitch of 300 mm. The thickness of the board is 20–25 mm. The next strip of membrane is rolled out and attached overlapping the previous one. Marks are visible in the photo; the edge of the next tape will follow these marks. Plus, the joint is taped with double-sided tape. I secured the outer sheathing with 100x5 mm self-tapping screws and additionally nailed it with 120 mm nails.
	Ridge waterproofing. When waterproofing a ridge, the membrane must be placed as a single sheet under the counter-lattice. I overlapped 350 mm on each side; according to the rules, 200 mm is enough.
	Chimney. It is advisable to remove the chimney before you begin installing the waterproofing, so it will be convenient for you to bypass it.
	Finished roof. I decided to make the roof of the house from metal tiles. One of the standard sizes of metal tile sheets is 6 m; the rafters were made exactly to this size. You can choose any other type of roofing; by the way, the most affordable option is slate, but it will have to be replaced in 10–15 years.
	Insulation. You can insulate the roof in different ways; I laid dense slabs of mineral wool between the beams, and on top of everything I sewed up a layer of vapor barrier and stuffed it with clapboard. Instead of cotton wool, you can use foam boards, but this insulation does not allow air to pass through. But keep in mind that you need to take mineral wool slabs. Soft mats will “sit down” and within 5–7 years they will look like a thin blanket.

Conclusion

Perhaps the detailed instructions that I wrote above are not ideal, but I succeeded, which means you can do it too. The video in this article will help you understand this topic in more detail. If you have any questions, write in the comments, such a discussion will benefit everyone.

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When choosing a simple structure for the roof of a residential, utility or any other building, as well as an extension to the main building, the most advantageous is a lean-to roof. It is built quite simply, is undemanding in terms of the type of foundation due to its low load, and can easily fit into the budget of any budget project. A pitched roof can be erected with your own hands step by step in the shortest possible time, even by one person, without the involvement of additional equipment or people. The design has increased functionality and reliability.

The most common areas of application for pitched roofs are bathhouses and outbuildings.

In order to understand whether it is worth making a choice in favor of a pitched roof, it is worth assessing what advantages will be obtained and minimizing the impact of the disadvantages. The advantages include the following criteria:

Economical in terms of financial costs not only for building materials, but also for strengthening walls to increase their resistance to compressive and tensile stresses.
The simplicity of the design will allow even non-specialists to build roofs of this type and at the same time obtain optimal service life, as well as the absence of any maintenance requirements.
Possibility with panoramic views.
Reduced roof windage in the presence of predominantly directional winds and the choice of the correct location of the slope.
High maintainability due to the simplicity of the design of the rafter system and sheathing.
It is permissible to use any roofing materials if the correct angles of inclination are selected.

A do-it-yourself pitched roof, built step by step, also has a number of disadvantages: it cannot withstand significant loads during heavy snowfalls, does not have a very aesthetic appearance, and also does not hold the roofing material during strong gusts of wind from the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope. In fact, for competent designers these disadvantages are not so significant and, if necessary, they can easily be turned into advantages. So, for example, to prevent the roof from falling off, it is enough to plant trees on the site or build a higher building nearby. To improve the aesthetics of the perception of a pitched roof, it is enough to use a trick and implement a project with multi-level slopes of the slopes on two opposite sides of the house.

Helpful information! A pitched roof does not allow for an attic space. This fact must be taken into account when planning the roof.

Preparatory work

A pitched roof is erected with your own hands step by step only after preparatory work has been carried out. The service life of the structure depends entirely on their thoughtfulness. First of all, this concerns the correct planning of the roof and the selection of materials.

How to make a pitched roof?

For a pitched roof, the angle of inclination is the main criterion for its reliability. On the one hand, the larger the angle, the more effectively precipitation is removed, and on the other hand, it is the main element that must withstand gusts of wind. During severe winters with significant amounts of precipitation, a thick layer of ice and snow forms on the roof, which can create loads that exceed permissible loads, as a result of which the roof can become deformed and break. That is, the angle of inclination of the slope according to this criterion should be based on the climate.

Attention! The angle of inclination of the roof should be directed towards the highest wind flows in order to reduce the resistance of the structure to them.

Another factor that affects the slope of a roof is the roofing material, which may have different roughness or strength. Qualitatively, its applicability for roofing can be divided according to the angles of inclination:

When the slope is tilted up to 10 0, it is allowed to use only rolled materials that have a flat and relatively smooth surface. These include roofing felt, bitumen shingles, etc.
When tilting from 10 0 to 20 0, it is possible to use corrugated materials such as slate, metal profile or ondulin.
When the slope is inclined 28 0 - 35 0, smooth metal roofing sheets are used, joined in a seam manner.
Tilt angles of 25 0 -35 0 are suitable for laying metal or ceramic tiles.

Important information! Greater inclination angles than 35 0 are not recommended due to increased resistance to air flows and deterioration of streamlining, which can lead to failure of the roofing material.

Construction and design of a pitched roof

The construction of pitched roofs is quite simple and includes the following components:

Rafter system. Designed to absorb the main load of the roof and distribute it evenly along the entire area of the walls of the facility. Usually it is made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 50x100 mm, depending on the roof area and the number of supporting elements.
Insulating layers. They are laid between the rafters and fixed to the sheathing and cladding on the inside of the building. Their role is to ensure maximum protection of the object and supporting structural elements from moisture or freezing.
Lathing. Designed to secure the roofing material and provide sufficient load-bearing capacity to support its own weight and various expected loads. The material for its manufacture can be MDF panels, edged and unedged boards. The choice is made according to the type of roofing material.
Roofing material. Allows you to provide excellent aesthetic properties of the roof, as well as protect it from precipitation.

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Types of roof supports

The roof support is selected based on the weight of the structure and the characteristics of the roofing material. There are the following types of supports:

Layered. They are additional structural elements that are installed evenly along the length of the slope in the inner part of the roof.

Hanging. The simplest fastening scheme, based on only two supports located above the walls of the building.

Sliding. Fastening to the walls is carried out on a special structure supported by a Mauerlat (harness).

Is it necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space?

In some structures, the requirements of the roofing material and the object itself, due to the peculiarities of its operating conditions, create the need to ensure ventilation of the roof. A striking example is the bathhouse, where the temperature difference between the internal premises and the external environment is more than 100°C. The main goal is to get rid of the formation of condensation and damage to the main elements. For a roof, it is necessary to provide a gap on the gables between the covering, the roof and the rafter system.

Create a drawing

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to take measurements of the wall trim, if this has not been done previously. After this, taking into account the specific features of the object, as well as the selected design parameters, the optimal parameters of the slope angle should be calculated.

The optimal distance between the rafters should be 1-1.5 m. The sheathing pitch is selected based on the requirements for laying the roofing material. Taking into account all the data, a drawing is created, and then the quantity of building materials that will need to be purchased is calculated. Additionally, it is recommended to make a reserve of materials in the amount of 10-15% of the total quantity.

List of required tools

Carrying out construction work will require the use of a number of tools that must be prepared in advance so as not to interrupt the installation. Therefore, before making the main structural elements and building a pitched roof, you need to prepare the following tools:

screwdriver for comfortable connection of structural elements;
pencil or marker for marking;
building level for adjusting the position of roof parts;
stapler for attaching waterproofing;
hammer for hammering nails;
saw for sawing rafters and sheathing to the required dimensions;
tape measure for taking measurements;
plumb line to control vertical position.

Do-it-yourself pitched roof step by step - description of the stages of work

After carrying out a number of preparatory work, you need to begin installation. The installation stages are as follows: installing rafters, laying sheathing, laying insulating materials and the main roof. Each stage must be thought out in advance: all the necessary tools and some materials are raised on the roof for easy access to them. With this approach, there will be no downtime or delays, which will guarantee the completion of work on time.

Installation of the rafter system

The construction of a pitched roof truss system is relatively simple and does not require experience in carrying out this type of work or special knowledge. However, it is important to follow the sequence of installation steps.

In accordance with the drawing, we cut 150x150 mm wooden beams on the ground to the required dimensions before lifting them onto the roof. Then we make sure to treat them with antiseptics and apply a protective layer. If this is not done, then insects or other pests may appear in the wood, which will damage the strength of the structure and will have to be replaced.

Important! All wooden beams and boards must be naturally dried and have a moisture level of no more than 10%. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation of the supporting structure with all the ensuing consequences.

On the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope, we install support posts, which are otherwise called pediment posts. At the same stage, additional supports should be installed, if provided for by the design. In most cases they are ordinary spacers. The interval between them for the installation of tiles is more than 3 m, and for profile sheets - more than 6 m.

Attention! When installing a pitched roof step-by-step with your own hands, you must check the verticality of the racks, since even a minimal angle of inclination can reduce the strength of the structure to a level below the minimum design value, which will lead to unpredictable consequences.

We install the prepared beams on a wooden frame or Mauerlat with fastening “into the claw”, “into the bowl” or onto steel pins. For the first two options, you will need to make appropriate cuts to the Mauerlat and rafters at the points of their contact. To do this, mark the point of contact with a marker, and then saw off the corner with a saw to a depth of no more than 30% of the height of the rafter. Additionally, it is necessary to install special steel brackets to increase the strength of the rafters or anchors.

The installation interval of the rafters is determined by the weight of the roofing material. You should focus on the following values:

for lightweight rolled roofing materials, the optimal distance between the rafters is 1.5-3 m;
for sheet materials and tiles, the interval should be 0.7-1 m.

Helpful information! All rafters must be laid in the same plane without distortions to ensure reliable contact of the sheathing with them.

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Laying insulating layers

Laying insulation when installing a pitched roof with your own hands is mandatory step by step for those buildings that are planned to be used in winter, in order to increase their energy efficiency. To secure the thermal insulation on the side of the premises, you will have to cover the rafters with MDF boards or boards with a thickness of 10 mm or more butt-to-ceiling. In some cases, it is possible to lay plasterboard sheets with a vapor barrier film covering it to protect it from condensation.

The vapor barrier layer is laid overlapping at a distance of 15-20 cm with the obligatory gluing of the joining seams with special tape. Where the outer rafters adjoin, they are laid on a vertical surface to ensure maximum protection from moisture.

At the next stage, the thermal insulation material is laid. When installing a pitched roof with your own hands step by step, it is recommended to use mineral wool materials, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam as insulation. An important point when laying them is to ensure tight contact with the rafters without the slightest gaps. A gap measuring 1 mm and 10 cm long can provide heat loss of several kilowatts, depending on the external temperature.

Helpful information! A pitched roof can be insulated with any heat-insulating material. The choice should be made on the basis of its effectiveness, cost and ease of installation.

A waterproofing film must be laid on top of the insulation. The method of installing it is similar to installing a vapor barrier. However, there is a significant nuance - the joining seams must necessarily fall on the rafters, and fastening is carried out on steel brackets using a construction stapler in increments of 10-15 cm.

1 - rafter; 2 — counter rail; 3 - waterproofing film; 4 - vertical sheathing; 5 - horizontal lathing; 7 - vapor barrier film; 8 - waterproofing seam.

Installation of sheathing and roofing material

When performing a step-by-step installation of a pitched roof with your own hands under soft and rolled roofing materials, the sheathing should be installed in the form of a continuous layer. In all other cases, planks are laid under the sheathing at intervals of 50-80 cm. The thickness of the boards should be more than 20 mm, and the width should be from 10 cm. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws to the rafter system. Then wind boards are installed, which will serve as a guide when laying the roofing material in terms of its alignment. However, this does not mean that it is not necessary to control the laying of the row using a level. For convenience, two bars are stuffed from the two end parts of the slope at a distance of about 0.5 m from the wall and a thread is pulled over them. This will be the zero level at which you need to align the row.

The roofing material is laid according to the appropriate technology. Installation begins from one of the corners of the slope and the entire roof is laid in order. The method of fastening is determined by the selected material.

Helpful information! For rigid sheet materials, it is recommended to place fasteners at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corner to prevent damage or deformation.

At the final stage, the end parts of the roof are sheathed in places where the slope is inclined.

A gable roof or gable roof is a roof with two slopes, i.e. having 2 inclined surfaces (slopes) of a rectangular shape.

Due to its design features, the frame of a gable roof ideally combines simplicity of design and maintenance with reliability and durability. These and many other parameters make the construction of a gable roof a practical and rational solution for private and commercial housing construction.

In this article, we will look at how to make a rafter system for a gable roof with your own hands. For effective perception of the material, it is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions from A to Z, from selection and calculations, to installation of the Mauerlat and sheathing under the roof. Each stage is accompanied by tables, diagrams, drawings, drawings and photos.

The popularity of the house roof is due to a number of advantages:

design variability;
simplicity in calculations;
naturalness of water flow;
integrity of the structure reduces the likelihood of leaks;
efficiency;
preserving the usable area of the attic or the possibility of arranging an attic;
high maintainability;
strength and wear resistance.

Types of gable roof

The installation of a gable roof truss system depends, first of all, on its design.

There are several options for gable roofs (types, types):

The most common roof installation option due to its simplicity and reliability. Thanks to symmetry, a uniform distribution of loads on the load-bearing walls and mauerlat is achieved. The type and thickness of the insulation does not affect the choice of material.

The cross-section of the beam makes it possible to provide a reserve of bearing capacity. There is no possibility of rafters bending. Supports and struts can be placed almost anywhere.

An obvious drawback is the impossibility of arranging a full-fledged attic floor. Due to sharp corners, “dead” zones appear that are unsuitable for use.

The arrangement of one angle of more than 45° leads to a reduction in the amount of unused area. There is an opportunity to make living rooms under the roof. At the same time, the requirements for calculations increase, because the load on the walls and foundation will be distributed unevenly.

This roof design allows you to equip a full second floor under the roof.

Naturally, a simple gable rafter roof differs from a broken roof, not only visually. The main difficulty lies in the complexity of the calculations.

Design of a gable roof truss system

Building a roof of any complexity with your own hands requires knowledge of the purpose of the main structural elements.

The locations of the elements are shown in the photo.

Mauerlat. Designed to distribute the load from the rafter system onto the load-bearing walls of the building. To arrange the Mauerlat, a timber made of durable wood is selected. Preferably larch, pine, oak. The cross-section of the timber depends on its type - solid or glued, as well as on the expected age of the structure. The most popular sizes are 100x100, 150x150 mm.
Advice. For a metal rafter system, the Mauerlat must also be metal. For example, a channel or an I-profile.

Rafter leg. The main element of the system. To make rafter legs, a strong beam or log is used. The legs connected at the top form a truss.

The silhouette of the roof truss determines the appearance of the structure. Examples of farms in the photo.

The parameters of the rafters are important. They will be discussed below.

Puff- connects the rafter legs and gives them rigidity.

Run:

Ridge run, is mounted at the junction of one rafter to another. In the future, the roof ridge will be installed on it.

Side purlins, they provide the truss with additional rigidity. Their number and size depend on the load on the system.

Rafter stand- vertically located beam. It also takes on part of the load from the weight of the roof. In a simple gable roof it is usually located in the center. With a significant span width - in the center and on the sides. In an asymmetrical gable roof, the installation location depends on the length of the rafters. If there is a broken roof and one room is arranged in the attic, the racks are located on the sides, leaving free space for movement. If there are supposed to be two rooms, the racks are located in the center and on the sides.

The location of the rack depending on the length of the roof is shown in the figure.

Strut. Serves as a support for the stand.

Advice. Installing the brace at an angle of 45° significantly reduces the risk of deformation from wind and snow loads.

In regions with significant wind and snow loads, not only longitudinal struts are installed (located in the same plane as the rafter pair), but also diagonal ones.

Sill. Its purpose is to serve as a support for the rack and a place for attaching the strut.

Lathing. Designed for movement during construction work and fixing roofing material. Installed perpendicular to the rafter legs.

Advice. An important purpose of the sheathing is to redistribute the load from the roofing material to the rafter system.

Having a drawing and diagram indicating the location of all the listed structural elements will help in the work.

Advice. Be sure to add information about the passage of the ventilation shaft and chimney to the gable roof rafter system diagram.

The technology of their installation is determined by the type of roof.

Selection of material for rafters

When calculating the material for a gable roof, you need to choose high-quality wood without damage or wormholes. The presence of knots for beams, mauerlat and rafters is not allowed.

For sheathing boards, there should be a minimum of knots, and they should not fall out. The wood must be durable and treated with the necessary preparations that will increase its properties.

Advice. The length of the knot should not exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the timber.

Calculation of the rafter system of a gable roof

Calculating the material parameters is an important step, so we present the calculation algorithm step by step.

It is important to know: the entire rafter system consists of many triangles, as the most rigid element. In turn, if the slopes have different shapes, i.e. are an irregular rectangle, then you need to divide it into separate components and calculate the load and amount of materials for each. After calculations, summarize the data.

1. Calculation of the load on the rafter system

The load on the rafters can be of three types:

Constant loads. Their action will always be felt by the rafter system. Such loads include the weight of the roof, sheathing, insulation, films, additional roofing elements, finishing materials for. The weight of the roof is the sum of the weight of all its constituent elements; such a load is easier to take into account. On average, the constant load on the rafters is 40-45 kg/sq.m.

Advice. To make a safety margin for the rafter system, it is better to add 10% to the calculation.

For reference: The weight of some roofing materials per 1 sq.m. presented in the table

Advice. It is desirable that the weight of roofing material per 1 sq.m. roof area did not exceed 50 kg.

Variable loads. They act at different times and with different strengths. Such loads include: wind load and its strength, snow load, precipitation intensity.

In essence, the roof slope is like a sail and, if you take into account the wind load, the entire roof structure can be destroyed.

The calculation is carried out according to the formula: wind load is equal to the regional indicator multiplied by the correction factor. These indicators are contained in SNiP “Loads and Impacts” and are determined not only by the region, but also by the location of the house. For example, a private house surrounded by multi-story buildings experiences less load. A detached country house or cottage experiences increased wind loads.

2. Calculation of snow load on the roof

The roof calculation for snow load is carried out according to the formula:

The total snow load is equal to the weight of the snow multiplied by the correction factor. The coefficient takes into account wind pressure and aerodynamic influence.

The weight of snow that falls on 1 square meter. roof area (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85) is in the range of 80-320 kg/sq.m.

Coefficients showing the dependence on the slope angle are shown in the photo.

Nuance. When the slope angle is over 60 ° the snow load does not affect the calculation. Because the snow will quickly slide down and will not affect the strength of the beam.

Special loads. Accounting for such loads is carried out in places with high seismic activity, tornadoes, and storm winds. For our latitudes, it is enough to make a safety margin.

Nuance. The simultaneous action of many factors causes a synergy effect. This is worth considering (see photo).

Assessment of the condition and load-bearing capacity of walls and foundations

It should be borne in mind that the roof has significant weight, which can cause damage to the rest of the building.

Determining the roof configuration:

simple symmetrical;
simple asymmetrical;
broken line

The more complex the shape of the roof, the greater the number of trusses and rafter elements needed to create the necessary safety margin.

The angle of inclination of a gable roof is determined primarily by the roofing material. After all, each of them puts forward their own demands.

soft roof - 5-20°;
metal tiles, slate, corrugated sheets, ondulin - 20-45°.

It should be noted that increasing the angle increases the area of space under the roof, but also the amount of material. What affects the total cost of work.

Nuance. The minimum angle of inclination of a gable roof must be at least 5°.

5. Calculation of rafter pitch

The pitch of the gable roof rafters for residential buildings can be from 60 to 100 cm. The choice depends on the roofing material and the weight of the roof structure. Then the number of rafter legs is calculated by dividing the length of the slope by the distance between the rafter pairs plus 1. The resulting number determines the number of legs per slope. For the second, the number must be multiplied by 2.

The length of the rafters for the attic roof is calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.

Parameter "a"(roof height) is set independently. Its value determines the possibility of arranging a living space under the roof, the convenience of being in the attic, and the consumption of material for the construction of the roof.

Parameter "b" equal to half the width of the building.

Parameter "c" represents the hypotenuse of the triangle.

Advice. To the obtained value you need to add 60-70 cm for cutting and moving the rafter leg beyond the wall.

It is worth noting that the maximum length of the beam is 6 m.p. Therefore, if necessary, the timber for the rafters can be spliced (extension, joining, joining).

The method of splicing rafters along the length is shown in the photo.

The width of the roof rafters depends on the distance between opposite load-bearing walls.

7. Calculation of the rafter cross-section

The cross-section of the rafters of a gable roof depends on several factors:

loads, we have already written about it;

type of material used. For example, a log can withstand one load, timber - another, laminated timber - a third;

rafter leg lengths;

the type of wood used in construction;

distances between rafters (rafter pitch).

You can determine the cross-section of the beam for the rafters, knowing the distance between the rafters and the length of the rafters using the data below.

Rafter cross-section - table

Advice. The larger the installation pitch of the rafters, the greater the load on one rafter pair. This means that the cross-section of the rafters needs to be increased.

Dimensions of lumber (timbers and boards) for a gable rafter system:

thickness (section) of the Mauerlat - 10x10 or 15x15 cm;

the thickness of the rafter leg and tie is 10x15 or 10x20 cm. Sometimes a beam of 5x15 or 5x20 cm is used;

run and strut - 5x15 or 5x20. Depending on the width of the foot;

stand - 10x10 or 10x15;

bench - 5x10 or 5x15 (depending on the width of the rack);

thickness (section) of the roof sheathing - 2x10, 2.5x15 (depending on the roofing material).

Types of gable roof rafter system

For the roof structure under consideration, there are 2 options: layered and hanging rafters.

Let's consider each type in detail in order to make an informed choice.

Hanging rafters

They are used for roof widths of no more than 6 lm. Installation of hanging rafters is carried out by attaching the legs to the load-bearing wall and the ridge girder. The design of hanging rafters is special in that the rafter legs are under the influence of a bursting force. Hanging rafters with a tie installed between the legs reduce its impact. The tie in the rafter system can be wooden or metal. Often the ties are placed at the bottom, then they play the role of load-bearing beams. It is important to ensure that the tie is securely attached to the rafter leg. Because a bursting force is also transmitted to it.

Advice.
The higher the tightening is located, the greater strength it should have.
If the tightening is not installed, the load-bearing walls may simply “move apart” from the pressure created by the rafter system.

Layered rafters

They are used for arranging roofs of any size. The design of layered rafters provides for the presence of a beam and a stand. The bench lying parallel to the Mauerlat takes on part of the load. Thus, the rafter legs are, as it were, inclined towards each other and supported by a stand. The rafter legs of the layered system work only in bending. And the ease of installation also tips the scales in their favor. The only drawback is the presence of a stand.

Combined

Due to the fact that modern roofs are distinguished by a wide variety of shapes and complexity of configurations, a combined type of rafter system is used.

After choosing the type of rafter system, you can accurately calculate the amount of materials. Write down the calculation results. At the same time, professionals recommend drawing up drawings for each roof element.

Installation of a gable roof rafter system

After the gable roof rafters have been calculated, installation can begin. We will divide the process into stages and give a description of each of them. The result will be a kind of step-by-step instructions containing additional information on each stage.

1. Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

The beam is installed along the length of the wall on which the rafters will rest.

In log houses, the role of the mauerlat is played by the upper crown. In buildings built from porous material (aerated concrete, foam concrete) or brick, the Mauerlat is installed along the entire length of the load-bearing wall. In other cases, it can be installed between the rafter legs.

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Since the length of the Mauerlat exceeds the standard dimensions of lumber, it has to be spliced.

The connection of the Mauerlat to each other is done as shown in the figure.

How to connect the Mauerlat?

The beams are cut only at an angle of 90°. Connections are made using bolts. Nails, wire, and wooden dowels are not used.

How to attach the Mauerlat?

The Mauerlat is installed at the top of the wall. The installation technology provides several ways to attach the Mauerlat:

strictly in the center of the load-bearing wall;
with a shift to one side.

Advice.
The Mauerlat cannot be placed closer than 5 cm to the outer edge of the wall.

To protect the timber for the Mauerlat from damage, it is laid on a layer of waterproofing material, which most often is ordinary roofing felt.

The reliability of the Mauerlat fastening is an important aspect of construction. This is due to the fact that the roof slope is like a sail. That is, it experiences strong wind load. Therefore, the Mauerlat must be firmly fixed to the wall.

Methods for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall and rafters

Anchor bolts. Ideal for monolithic structures.

Wooden dowels. Used for log houses and beams. But, they are always used with additional fasteners.

Staples.

Stud or fittings. It is used if the cottage is built from porous materials (aerated concrete, foam concrete).

Sliding mount (hinge). Tying in this way allows for the displacement of the rafter legs when the house shrinks.

Annealed wire (knitting, steel). Used as an additional mount in most cases.

2. Manufacturing of trusses or pairs

Installation is carried out in two ways:

installation of beams directly on the roof. It is not used often, since it is problematic to carry out all the work, measurements, and trimming at height. But it allows you to completely do the installation yourself;

assembly on the ground. That is, individual elements (triangles or pairs) for the rafter system can be assembled below and then raised to the roof. The advantage of such a system is faster performance of high-altitude work. The disadvantage is that the weight of the assembled truss structure can be significant. To lift it you will need special equipment.

Advice. Before assembling the rafter legs, you need to apply markings. It is very convenient to use templates for these purposes. The rafter pairs assembled according to the template will be absolutely identical. To make a template, you need to take two boards, the length of each of which is equal to the length of one rafter, and connect them together.

3. Installation of rafter legs

The assembled pairs rise to the top and are installed on the Mauerlat. To do this, you need to make a gash at the bottom of the rafter legs.

Advice. Since the slots on the Mauerlat will weaken it, you can only make cuts on the rafter leg. To ensure that the cut is uniform and fits tightly to the base, you need to use a template. It is cut out of plywood.

Methods of fastening the rafter leg are shown in the figure.

You need to start installing rafter pairs from opposite ends of the roof.

Advice. To correctly install the rafter legs, it is better to use temporary struts and spacers.

A string is stretched between the fixed pairs. It will simplify the installation of subsequent rafter pairs. It will also indicate the level of the ridge.

If the rafter system is mounted directly on the roof of the house, then after installing the two outer rafter legs, the ridge support is installed. Next, the halves of the rafter pair are attached to it.

It is worth noting that the opinions of professionals differ on this issue. Some advise using a staggered fastening pattern, which will allow the increasing load to be distributed more evenly on the walls and foundation. This order involves installing one rafter in a checkerboard pattern. After part of the rafter legs is installed, the missing parts of the pair are mounted. Others insist that it is necessary to mount each pair in a sequential manner. Depending on the size of the structure and the configuration of the truss, the rafter legs are reinforced with supports and racks.

Nuance. Additional structural elements are connected using cutting. It is preferable to fix them with construction staples.

If necessary, you can lengthen the rafter leg.

Methods for splicing rafter legs are shown in the photo.

Advice. The method by which the mauerlat is lengthened (cut at 90°) cannot be used in this case. This will weaken the rafter.

4. Installing the ridge of a gable roof

The roof ridge unit is made by connecting the rafter legs at the top.

Roof ridge structure:

Method without using a support beam (see figure).

Method using rafter beams. Timber is needed for large roofs. In the future, it can become a support for the rack.

Method of laying on timber.

A more modern version of making a ridge knot can be considered the method shown in the photo.

Cutting method.

After the rafter system is installed, we perform major fastening of all structural elements.

5. Installation of roof sheathing

The sheathing is installed in any case, and is designed for more convenient movement along the roof during work, as well as for fastening roofing material.

The sheathing pitch depends on the type of roofing material, for example:

for metal tiles - 350 mm (the distance between the two lower boards of the sheathing should be 300 mm).
for corrugated sheets and slate - 440 mm.
We lay a continuous sheathing under the soft roof.

Rafter system of a gable roof with an attic - video:

Conclusion

As you can see, despite its apparent simplicity, the installation of a gable roof rafter system contains many pitfalls. But, based on the recommendations given, you can easily build a reliable structure with your own hands.