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Water wells: types and features of their operation. How to build a well in a country house Video: The process of lowering concrete rings into a finished shaft

For the extraction of drinking and irrigation water, installation of sewerage systems, laying of various communications, during private or industrial construction one cannot do without wells. The walls in the shafts are fixed using rings made of concrete, reinforced concrete, brick or polymers. Bottoms, covers and various additional elements are often used for equipment. Depending on the purpose, well ring models of various diameters and heights are used.

Types of wells

Several types of wells are used for different purposes. After studying the market, you can choose the appropriate option.

  1. Water intakes. By constructing such a structure, water is extracted from the aquifer for domestic needs: drinking, cooking, irrigation, etc.
  2. Tap water. In these wells, water is supplied using installed distribution and control equipment.
  3. Drainage With the help of wells of this type, drainage systems are serviced and repaired.
  4. Observations. Such structures are an important part of the sewerage system. With their help, repair work, performance testing and, if necessary, cleaning of the collector are carried out. Wells can be linear, nodal or rotary.
  5. Septic tanks. They belong to a modern version of a sewer well, in which wastewater not only accumulates, but is also cleaned.
  6. Telephone. They install, monitor and repair communication systems.
  7. Stormwater. Such wells are installed to collect and subsequently drain excess rain and melt water.
  8. For cesspools. A primitive version of a sewerage structure.
  9. For gas pipeline systems. Underground gas pipelines must be equipped with similar structures at the locations of valves and compensators.
  10. Special. Many owners of summer cottages use rings in a non-traditional way. For example, they set up small pools or cellars for storing workpieces.

Types of rings

The range of rings on the building materials market is quite extensive.

It is necessary to study possible options, their sizes and technical characteristics even before organizing construction work.

When choosing a ring model, you should carefully consider the nuances and pay attention to the following factors:

  • The material from which the products are made. The most popular before and today are reinforced concrete structures. But they have worthy competition from rings made from plastic.
  • Dimensions. The sizes of the rings must be optimal. You should not purchase products whose dimensions exceed the calculated ones. This will cause additional difficulties during transportation and installation. Not to mention the exorbitant price of the products.
  • Price. The purchase budget should be calculated in advance. In addition to the cost of the rings themselves, about a third of it will be required to organize delivery and installation. It is worth noting that this often requires the use of special equipment.
  • Availability of locking connections. The tongue-and-groove connection located at the end of the ring provides better quality of joining of products, which affects the reliability of the structure during operation.

Features of application

Depending on the design and area of ​​use, there are several design options. Their characteristics should be studied before purchasing.

Material of manufacture

Most well rings are made from reinforced concrete (reinforced concrete) or plastic. Both options are reliable and have a long service life. However, differences in other characteristics make you think seriously when choosing a suitable model..

  1. Concrete products. When making concrete models, they are guided by GOST 8020–90. The characteristics that such structures must have (strength, rigidity, resistance to low temperatures, moisture, cracking, etc.) are regulated by GOST 13015–2012.
  2. Plastic structures. The production of plastic rings is not regulated by state standards.

A comparative analysis of two types of structures made from different materials is provided.

Concrete products

Reinforced concrete products have still not lost their leading position. Structures made from this material are characterized by the following properties.

  • Strength.
  • Resistance to various types of influences.
  • Long service life.
  • Availability.
  • Resistance to contact with water (subject to high-quality waterproofing).
  • Manufacturability of installation.

But it is worth considering that concrete structures weigh quite a lot. Therefore, special equipment is required for transportation, unloading and installation.

Marking of concrete rings:

  • Working chambers: KFK, KDK, KLK, KLV, KVG.
  • Wall models: KS. If the ring has a bottom, the letter “D” appears in the abbreviation.
  • Support rings: KO.
  • Base plates: PO.
  • Bottom plates: PN.
  • Floor slabs: PP.

Together with the type of design, the product marking applied to its outer side includes the internal diameter of the ring, its height and some other characteristics.

Diameter and height are rounded and indicated in decimeters. An example of the designation of a wall product with a height of 0.89 m and a diameter of two meters: KS 20 9.

Currently, there is a huge selection of concrete well rings. Sizes are available in a wide range. The diameters of the products range from 58 to 250 cm, and their heights range from 10 to 311 cm.

Recently, lined models have become widespread. In them, the walls of the product are treated with plastic at the stage of manufacturing the rings. An inner ring made of polymer material is put on the mold core and securely attached to the concrete structure. Used mainly for constructing septic tanks, such structures are easier to clean, practically no growths appear on them, concrete chips do not fall off, and cracks and chips are less likely to form.

The production of concrete rings is carried out by vibration pressing or casting. Requirements for the mixture are established by GOST 7473–2010. The proportions of ingredients are determined by technologists. Example of a recipe: cement (grades from M 400) - 150 kg, sand (size 1.5-2 mm) - 400 kg, gravel (fractions up to 10 mm) - 625 kg, water - 75 kg, plus plasticizer.

Plastic models

Polymer sand products are produced without the use of concrete. This moment determines their low weight.

The concrete in the mixture is replaced by a special type of polymer, which is mixed with sand until smooth. This composition is poured into a matrix, where the mass is sintered under the influence of high temperatures. The result is a durable product with low porosity.

There are two types of plastic rings:

  • Team. In this case, the lower floor slab and the required number of rings are installed. They are fastened together using a threaded connection. Then the top floor slab with an access hole is mounted, onto which the shell and hatch cover are attached. The low weight of all elements allows installation on your own.
  • Seamless. This one-piece structure is ready for use immediately after installation. In this case, the weak point of any structure in the form of connections is eliminated, which improves the tightness of the structure and its resistance to external influences.

Polymer structures differ in their characteristics from others.

Thanks to this, they are very easy to install:

  • Plastic products weigh more than eight times less than their concrete counterparts.
  • The service life of the rings exceeds 50 years.
  • When installing plastic products, waterproofing is not required.
  • When manufactured in molds, a tongue-and-groove connection is arranged on rings for ease of joining of products. The contact of the rings in this case is so tight that additional sealing is usually not required.
  • Installation of plastic models is very quick. It can also be done on your own.
  • It is much easier to make holes for installing pipes in polymer-sand rings. To carry out this operation there is no need to use a heavy hammer drill. But we must remember that such work should be carried out with care, since plastic is susceptible to damage that can occur when making holes.
  • The low weight of the structures allows the delivery and installation of rings without the use of special equipment. Usually two people are enough to carry out the work.
  • The cost of polymer sand products is much higher than the price of concrete ones. It is affected by the use of expensive raw materials in production. For example: the price of a section with a height of 150 cm and a diameter of 90 cm is about 10 thousand rubles. However, when calculating the cost of a structure, one should take into account significant savings in transportation costs, installation costs and carrying out preventive and repair measures.
  • When the soil swells, plastic rings may be subject to deformation.
  • Plastic does not tolerate low temperatures well. As a result of their influence, its fragility sharply increases. Therefore, when an external load occurs, cracks may appear. This creates a limitation: products made of polymers cannot be installed in areas where the air temperature can drop below -50 degrees.

It is worth noting that, if necessary, manufacturers can make changes to the material formulation and product design that improve its characteristics: special components are used to increase resistance to external influences, the thickness of the ring walls is increased, and additional stiffening ribs are created to increase strength. But such complications significantly affect the final cost of products..

The height of plastic well rings varies from 500 to 1500 mm. If such a need arises, the product can be cut to obtain the desired height. The most popular diameters (internal) are: 800, 900, 950, 1000 and 1200 mm. It is possible to manufacture products to individual orders.

When choosing a design option, you should evaluate the depth of the shaft, soil composition, freezing depth and groundwater level. Accordingly, if there is a need to equip a shallow well in sandy soil, polymer rings would be the best option. When constructing a mine several meters deep in clayey soil, you cannot do without concrete models.

If there is a need to improve the performance characteristics of the structure, you can consider the option of placing a plastic liner inside a reinforced concrete well. In the same way, you can restore an old structure that has fallen into disrepair. To do this, there is no need to dismantle the dilapidated structure. It is enough just to pump out the water, renew the filter media and install the polymer liner.

The lack of a centralized water supply system ceases to be a problem when an alternative water source is installed in a suburban area or simply in a place remote from the city. There are various types of wells, and the owners of the territory themselves choose what is more suitable: a small, beautifully decorated log house or a deep well with modern equipment. Let us consider in more detail the design features and stages of construction of structures of various types.

In summer cottages there are rarely bodies of water that meet sanitary standards. Most often, if high aquifers allow, a pond is dug out, which is actively used for watering the garden plot, household needs, and swimming. However, a pond, like any other open-type reservoir, is not suitable as a source of drinking water. Natural springs or springs gushing out of the ground can be found extremely rarely, usually over a large area on country estates. A standard summer cottage site is usually devoid of any natural body of water.

Modern well in the country as a decorative element

To provide a separately located area with the necessary amount of water, wells of various types are installed. The choice depends on many factors, including:

  • location of groundwater;
  • the volume of water required for a comfortable life;
  • availability of materials necessary for construction (financial capabilities);
  • possibility of installing pumping equipment, etc.

The decisive factor for dividing all types of structures into two large categories is the depth of groundwater. If they are located shallowly, then it is enough to dig a pit mechanically or manually, strengthen its walls, and refine the head. The result will be a shaft-type device - one of those that our ancestors have used since time immemorial. Of course, building materials have become more durable and wear-resistant, wood has been replaced by monolithic concrete blocks and “eternal” plastic, but the principle of the device has remained virtually unchanged.

Choosing a well depending on the location of the aquifers

The deeper occurrence of aquifers does not allow the construction of a conventional pit; drilling a well using special equipment will be required. This process is quite expensive, sometimes time-consuming, but the volume of water extracted from an artesian well is much larger, and the quality of the liquid is much higher. Independent drilling rarely leads to a positive result, since a necessary step is a preliminary study of the soil, and this is done by geological research companies. You can make a well with your own hands to a depth of 15-20 m if you have a mobile drilling rig. And now in more detail about the different types of water wells.

Mine wells: choosing material for construction

All mine-type structures are united by the same design - an elongated pit 5-15 m deep with reinforced walls and a neatly designed head. The differences relate to the nuances of construction, material, and method of water extraction. The advantages of a well shaft are constant access to a certain amount of drinking or technical liquid, the reserves of which are preserved and replenished naturally over time. Complete drainage of the reservoir occurs only in rare cases, for example during an extremely dry period.

Types of mine wells depending on depth

Wooden log house

Wood has been used for a long time, as it tolerates moisture well and is easy to process. A structure resembling a log house is made from logs or thick boards (from 150 mm and thicker). The elements are attached to each other in various ways, for example, “in the paw”. Not all breeds are suitable. The lower part in contact with water is assembled from elm, alder or oak. To ensure that the water remains clear and does not have a bitter taste, the oak is pre-stained. Cheaper pine is suitable for making the top and head.

Scheme of a wooden shaft well

It is irrational to dig pits of less than 5 meters: they collect only surface water horizons that contain many impurities and, therefore, are not suitable for drinking. The soil layers lie at a depth of 10-15 m; this is exactly the height that a kind of “log house” should turn out to be. Assembly is carried out in fragments, which are lowered one by one, hammering with a sledgehammer, to the bottom. The role of a bottom filter is played by a sand and pebble cushion. The upper part is protected from high water with a clay castle 1-1.5 m wide.

Masonry

It is customary to lay stone mines in areas where wood is in short supply. Most often they can be found in mountainous and foothill areas with poor vegetation, but a large amount of granite or dolomite deposits. Stone masonry is also used for decorative purposes, but the beautiful cylindrical shape made of colored rocks takes a lot of time and effort, and is not highly functional, since the stone is recommended to be used only for shallow pits.

Nowadays stone is more often used to decorate the above-ground part - the head

To ensure the stability of the structure, a metal frame is initially welded to a stable base placed on the bottom. Reinforcement, wire, and metal rings create a kind of stiffening ribs between which the masonry is placed. A composition of dolomite, rubble, granite stone, impermeable to water, is bonded with sand-cement mortar. Limestone or sandstone are not suitable due to their porous structure and water permeability.

Brick mine

Despite the difference in the material of manufacture, the construction of different types of wells has much in common. For example, if you replace stone with brick, the difference will be small. The main structural difference is the arrangement of bricks, which are laid according to a certain pattern, while the stones are in a chaotic order. To create reliable walls, masonry is made one or one and a half bricks wide. The rounded shape is given using a special stabilizing profile.

Brick well shaft

Without a frame, which forms a kind of “skeleton” of a well structure, stone and brickwork cannot exist for long. Despite the strength of the Portland cement that holds the individual elements together, over time, underground currents wash away the solution, and the structure may crumble. The support frame is welded from a metal profile, pieces of reinforcement, or assembled from waterproof wood. The minimum thickness of the base is 100 mm.

Factory-made concrete rings are popular among summer residents due to their low cost. The process of installing them takes much less time than laying a brick wall or installing a wooden frame. Convenient dimensions (diameter from 0.8 m to 1.5 m, height from 0.7 m to 0.9 m) allow you to assemble a structure of the required depth. The elements are connected end to end using special brackets and bolts, and the cracks between them are filled with cement mortar to ensure complete sealing. Sometimes, for strength, joints are connected with 6-centimeter steel strips and staples (3-4 pieces around the circumference).

Installation of concrete rings

The shaft is dug gradually so that the first ring goes down, the second is installed on top of it - and so on until the full depth. A sand cushion 0.3 m thick is formed at the bottom, covered with a layer of crushed stone. The upper part is reinforced with a clay castle. It is not needed if there are stones, peat or dense sand directly under the fertile soil layer. The first few portions of liquid must be pumped out, and the subsequent ones are initially best used for household needs.

Video: The process of lowering concrete rings into a finished shaft

Prefabricated plastic frame

Modified polymers are actively used for the production of prefabricated well structures and other equipment located underground and in contact with a moist environment. They are not yet as popular as their concrete counterparts, but the advantages of alternative rings are obvious:

  • the maximum height of an individual part is 1.5 m, which increases the speed of construction and improves the tightness of the shaft;
  • the mass of plastic elements is much lighter than concrete, brick or wood;
  • the threaded connection ensures water tightness over the entire area of ​​the walls;
  • working pressure – up to 50 kPa;
  • cost – from 11 thousand rubles. for the ring.

Polymer pipes for wells

Rings are installed in two ways. On dense, stable soils, first dig out the shaft, then lower and screw together the rings one by one, coating the joints with sealant. If the soil is loose, dig a small pit, insert the first element, and then take out the earth from under it and lift it up. Then it is pushed down, the second element is mounted on top - and so on until the end. Polymer structures last more than 50 years.

Borehole water supply for a suburban area

Shafts with a depth of more than 20 m are called pipe (tubular) or artesian. If underground aquifers lie very deep, it is necessary to drill wells up to 200 m, but most often this happens for industrial purposes. The quality of the liquid in artesian springs is much higher than that of a well: it practically does not contain nitrates, salts of harmful metals, or pathogenic bacteria that enter wells from the perched water. The only disadvantage of well equipment is the high cost.

Shallow well (for sand)

Sand wells are the most acceptable way to provide a country house with the best quality water. Their depth ranges from 15 m to 35 m (less often 45 m), and the water consumption is on average 0.8-2.2 m³/h. Drilling must be carried out by specialists, since it is necessary to detect underground horizons of aquifer sand and correctly install the filter. The drilling process lasts 2-3 days, then it is necessary to line the shaft with pipes made of steel or propylene. The lower part of the equipment is equipped with a sand filter or a more powerful filter column.

Sand well construction diagram

The productivity of the structure is enough to provide water to a family of 3-4 people. The quality of the liquid is not as ideal as that of an artesian, but much higher than that of a well, since the ingress of surface water is excluded. If you install a centrifugal pump and automatic equipment, the sand well will function uninterruptedly throughout the year. Drilling is possible using a compact drilling rig; a license and a package of permits are not required.

deep well

The depth of an artesian well is from 30 m or more, in suburban areas the maximum does not exceed 200 m. A package of permits is required for its installation. Drilling must be done by specialists, as you will need heavy construction equipment (ZIL, KamAZ) and a powerful rotary unit. The drilling process involves breaking up hard rock, removing it from the mine, and installing casing pipes. The maximum number of casing pipes for one structure is 3 pieces; such a prefabricated structure is called telescopic. Welding has recently been used extremely rarely; the main method of connecting elements is threaded. The lower water layers are isolated from the upper ones using a special material - compactonite, granulated dry clay.

Artesian well with double casing

After installing the pipes, experimental flushing is required until clean water is obtained. Samples are taken for analysis to give permission to use water as drinking water. The owner is issued a passport, which indicates the technical data of the structure and terms of use.

Features of the Abyssinian well design

When there is no need to equip a powerful well, you can make an autonomous Abyssinian well. Its installation does not require long digging or heavy equipment. The technology consists of installing a pipe of minimum diameter (up to 4 cm) to the depth of the upper aquifer. The lower part of the pipe is equipped with a filter that protects it from contamination. The water supply to the top is provided by a self-priming pump. To make the pipe easier to sink into the ground, it is equipped with a conical tip, the diameter of which is 4-5 cm wider than the diameter of the pipe.

Comparative diagram of a tube well and an Abyssinian well

The above-ground part is decorated or ennobled with a small structure, such as a gazebo. Any convenient location for installation is suitable, but it is necessary to avoid areas close to septic tanks, drainage collectors, and sewers.

Video: comparative characteristics of a well and an Abyssinian well

Having figured out what types of water wells there are, it is easy to choose a structure that is optimally suitable for a specific suburban area. But keep in mind that it is prohibited to build deep structures without permits.

In the event that there is no centralized water supply in a suburban area, the only way out of the situation is to create a well with your own hands. Before starting construction, it is worth taking into account that the well at the dacha will be filled with water by drawing groundwater. And for this, its location must be at least 28-30 m from contaminated sources, such as a cesspool or landfill.

Types of wells

The most suitable time of year to build a well will be late autumn. During this period, ground flows flow to a low level of depth, which allows the mine to be constructed without hindrance. Before starting construction, it is worth deciding what type of well will be on the territory. In this case, it is necessary to carefully study the technologies that explain how to make a well in the country.

A well or well for a private house can be of the following types:

  • wooden;

    with a decorative house;

    concreted;

    from reinforced concrete rings;

    made of stone or brick.

Drill type well

A drilled well in a dacha is created in an area where underground streams flow at a high level. The work is carried out by drilling wells. The drill bit is embedded in the soil and a hole of the required width is dug using rotational movements.

By choosing this type of method, the well as a result has a greater depth and a narrow neck. You can see in the photo what this structure looks like.

Pipes made of metal and asbestos with a diameter of at least 15 cm are installed inside the structure. A cover is installed on top of the well as protection from debris and a water lifting device, which is clearly visible in the photo examples. These types of structures can be less than 20 m deep.

Mine type wells

A mine-type well can be constructed if there are no rocks on the site, in the presence of which the drilling method is not used. A well in the form of a shaft is dug in a simple way, in which the earth is removed from the pit with one’s own hands using a bucket. The depth of construction should be no more than 20-25 m, and the deeper the shaft, the lower the risk of water contamination with harmful bacteria. You can create a well in your country house with a minimum depth with your own hands using:

  • tub for cleaning the pit.

If you decide to create a deep well, you will need the help of special equipment. The bottom of the pit is equipped with crushed stone 50 cm high for water filtration. For the durability of the structure, the walls must be equipped with asbestos. Photo examples of excavation work will help you figure out how to properly organize the work of constructing such a well.

Wooden structure

To create a wooden well, wooden beams 10-15 cm wide or thick panels are suitable. At the first stage of creation, it is necessary to dig a shaft corresponding to the height of the beam, after which the finished material is installed inside.

A tunnel is made under the log house with gradual deepening for the next beam. You can see how it looks correctly by looking at photo examples. The log house is installed on top of each other, bringing it to the desired height. For strength, the structure is fastened with boards vertically.

Decorative houses

They have a decorative function. Their main purpose is to close the well pit. The house is selected taking into account the decorative elements that are on the landscape of the territory. Inside the house you can install a pump to raise water to the surface. You can get acquainted with the decorative element in the photo examples.

Concreting

A metal formwork is installed into a pre-dug shaft and then filled with cement. You can add small fractions of bitumen or pebbles to the solution.

Three days later, after the first layer has dried, you can begin pouring the second base. Carrying out the work in stages, the well will be strong and durable.

Reinforced concrete rings

Using reinforced concrete structures, you can create a well of various depths and any diameter. The work begins with preparing the pit at the level of two rings, which are accurately installed on top of each other, and how this happens can be seen in the photo examples.

For strength, the rings are connected with metal reinforcement. Alternate deepening of the shaft is carried out by digging from the bottom of the rings and freeing up space for the third row of the structure. The next stage is based on cementing the gaps between the rings and equipping the bottom. The shaft is filled with gravel to a height of 50 cm. At the next stage, a cover and a decorative canopy are installed.

Near such a well it is necessary to dig a 1 meter trench and fill it with clay. This action is necessary to protect well water from the ingress of small debris and soil particles.

Brick and stone

The walls inside the structure can be equipped with brick or small stone, but only in the case of a ready-made shaft with excavation of the required size. This kind of well cannot be deeper than 7 meters.

Wall decoration with brick and stone can be used if the private sector area contains clay or loamy soil.

When creating masonry at the bottom of the shaft, it is necessary to add less liquid to the cement, and for the upper part you can use a standard mix solution.

So that the country well does not spoil the appearance of the landscape, it is worth decorating. You can build a well at your dacha in the form of a wooden crane, decorate a shed roof in the Moroccan style, decorate the hinged support with carvings or ornamental painting. Any fantasy can be realized, even one that you once saw in a photo in a book or on the Internet.

The same amount of time is allocated to create a well or well. However, for any type of construction, preliminary preparation of the work is required, taking into account the groundwater level, selecting a photo of the future well and determining the correct location for the construction.

Everyone who has a country house knows that water on their own property is a necessary condition for living. Drinking water, watering the site, organizing a bathroom are impossible without a reliable water supply, but, as a rule, problems arise with this outside the city. Your own well will help you gain independence from the central water intake and reduce water costs.

All types of wells can be divided into two types: key and shaft. Key wells are the simplest and most economical. Their construction requires minimal costs.

  • Rising key well– this is the place where the spring of water comes to the surface. To organize this type of well, it is enough to make a small recess and install a frame. To filter water, the bottom of the well is covered with small pebbles and sand. The thickness of the filtration layer must be at least 15 cm. The log house must be installed so that its lower edge is below the level of rising water. A drain hole must be provided in the log house. If it is not installed, then the water will not be able to “rise” to the required height and may “leave” from the well. To protect the log house from debris and precipitation, a cover is provided on the well.
  • Descending Key Wellsimilar to the ascending one, but its water quality is worse. To purify water from soil impurities, it is necessary to install a filter at the bottom of the log house. The log house is mounted in the same way as on an ascending one.

The use of this type of well is limited to places where the keys come to the surface, which in most cases is inconvenient. They are very rarely suitable for organizing individual water supply. In such cases, shaft wells are used.

Mine wells are a shaft dug deep with a diameter of 30 cm to one and a half meters. Depending on the material used, during the construction of the mine there are:

  • wooden;
  • brick;
  • stone;
  • concrete.

Depending on the depth of the shaft itself, wells are divided into: shallow - 2-3 meters deep, medium - 4-9 meters and deep - more than 10 meters. A shaft well is typically a hand-dug shaft.

The choice of material for making a well is carried out individually. But there are points that need to be taken into account when choosing a material.

For a stone well, you can use rubble stone, dolomite or granite; the use of sandstone or limestone is not advisable. When using a brick when building a well shaft, make sure that it is well fired. Burnt iron brick has proven itself well - it is almost waterproof.

Portland cement must be used as the binding element of the mortar used for masonry. There are also increased requirements for the solution. To improve quality, increase strength characteristics, and increase water-repellent properties, it is recommended to use various additives and additives.

Very often, the walls of the shaft are reinforced with reinforced concrete rings with a diameter of 0.8-1.2 m. Precast concrete rings have a long service life - up to 50 years, and are easy to install and maintain. You can dig a well at any time of the year. It is not recommended to start digging a well during spring floods. During this period, the groundwater level rises, which may cause the wrong choice of well depth and, as a result, its drying out in the summer.

  • Abyssinian well is a well with a diameter of 25-75 mm and a depth of 10-15 meters. The founder of such a well belongs to the American Norton. The name has been assigned to it since the 19th century from the name of the country of Abyssinia. It is a buried pipe with a conical tip at the end. The tip has a filter for water purification. For pipes with a small diameter - 25-35 mm and on light soil, driving work is carried out. For larger diameters, drilling is required to install the pipe. The main disadvantage of the Abyssinian well is the maximum depth of rising water, which is no more than 8 meters.

The water is raised by a piston pump, manual or electric. The yield of an Abyssinian well is practically independent of the diameter of the pipes used. It depends only on the thickness of the aquifer. The main advantage of using an Abyssinian well is the speed of its production and the low cost of the materials used. A professional team of craftsmen will install such a well in a few hours.

Sewer, storm or drainage wells

The name “well” includes diverse structures with different technical purposes. Often, when we say “well,” we only mean structures for supplying water. Moreover, the main components of the sewerage system are also wells. They are intended for inspections of sewerage systems, such as prefabricated and nodal wells - for several branches of the sewer system, differential wells - for changing the depth and speed of sewer drains.

Drainage wells are an essential element of the drainage system. It is installed in areas where there is a high rise in groundwater levels - to a depth of 2-1.5 m, and for drainage of storm water. Drainage wells are used to inspect the system, collect water or remove it from the system - an absorption well.

Secondly, take a soil sample and determine its type; thirdly, based on the data obtained, select the type of well that is most suitable for construction in specific conditions; fourthly, determine the optimal location of the well on the ground based on sanitary standards.

Types of wells

Depending on the location of the aquifer, key wells and shaft wells are distinguished.

A key well is built if there is a place where the water of the aquifer comes out to the surface of the earth: the aquifer, encountering an obstacle in its path in the form of an aquifer, sometimes finds an outlet to the surface of the earth, forming keys (springs). If on a low but level area the water comes to the surface with some pressure, then you are dealing with an ascending spring. In the case of a downward spring, water flows down a slope slowly, evenly, without pressure.

The construction of mine wells is carried out in those areas where there is no open outlet of water to the surface, but there is an underground aquifer with a depth of up to 20 m.

Wells built on springs

This type of well is the simplest and most economical. Its design depends on what key it is built on: ascending or descending.

Rising key well

At the point where the rising spring jet reaches the surface of the earth, a small construction site is leveled (round - with a diameter of about a meter, square - with sides of the same size). The top fertile layer of soil is removed from the area of ​​the future log house, and the soil is slightly deeper, the walls of the well are strengthened with brick or rubble stone, and the log house is installed in the recess. The log house can be concrete or wooden.

Ascending key well: 1 - frame; 2 - place of water outlet; 3 - drain hole; 4 - tray for draining water; 5 - drainage groove; 6 - clay; 7 - gravel

The installation diagram of the log house should be such that its lower edge is below the upper level of the water rise (see figure). The height of the log house depends on the wishes of the owner, but if the upper edge of the log house is much higher than the level of rising water, then a drain hole must be made in the wall of the log house. Otherwise, water may escape from the well.

Under the drain hole, a tray is attached to the wall of the log house to allow water to drain. As a rule, it is also used to draw water from a well. This is much more convenient than scooping it out of the log house, and besides, the water in the well will not be polluted.

To drain the water flowing through the drain hole, it is necessary to lay a deep groove. The walls and bottom of the groove are coated with a layer of oily clay and lined with flat rubble stone.

To prevent water from seeping into the gaps between the walls of the depression in the ground and the walls of the log house, they are sealed with a thick (at least 20 cm) layer of greasy clay; The clay is laid on top with natural stone or covered with crushed stone or gravel.

The bottom of the well is also filled with well-washed gravel, crushed stone or river sand (coarse fraction). The bottom filling layer will act as a natural filter. Its thickness must be at least 10 cm.

To prevent atmospheric water from mixing with the well water (in the form of rain, snow), a fairly wide (up to 30-40 cm) blind area of ​​rich clay is made around the well frame, which is laid on top with brick, rubble stone, concrete or asphalt. The top of the well should always be covered with a tight lid.

Descending Key Well

The water of a downward spring often contains particles of silt, mountain sand, soil, etc. Therefore, the frame of a well built on such a spring must have a partition with a filter layer of crushed stone or gravel. At the point where the key comes out to the surface of the earth, an area of ​​about 1 square meter is leveled. m. It should be taken into account that descending springs are, as a rule, located on slopes, but the site for the well must be horizontal (a building level can be used for control).

Next, the soil is dug into which the frame is installed. The gaps between the walls of the soil recess and the walls of the log house are sealed with a thick layer of greasy clay, and the bottom of the well is coated with clay, which is then necessarily covered with hard material: lined with brick, stone, concreted or covered with boards (see figure).

Descending key well: 1 - frame; 2 - key exit location; 3 - clay; 4 - hard bottom covering; 5 - filter layer; 6 - drain hole; 7 - tray for water drainage; 8 - drainage groove

A filter layer of pebbles, crushed stone or coarse washed river sand is poured onto the bottom covering; A partition with holes is installed on top of the filter layer.

Having settled in the lower part of the log house, under the partition, the water flows to the top, already cleared of impurities, silt, soil, etc.

Similar to an ascending key well, to drain excess water, a drain hole is made in the log house, under which a tray is fixed to drain the water. Excess water is drained from the well by a deep groove paved with rubble stone.

Mine wells

When the aquifer depth is up to 20 m, shaft wells are built to obtain water. The cross-section of the shaft varies between 0.8-1.5 m. The main components of the shaft well are:

a) head - ground part. For ease of use of the well, the height of the head should not be made more
0.8-1 m;

b) shaft - underground part, or shaft.

In the lower part of the trunk - the water intake - water is collected and stored. The height of the water intake is in the range of 0.75-2 m. In the event that the thickness of the aquifer is small and, accordingly, the flow of water into the well occurs in small quantities, to accumulate water, the water intake part of the trunk is made expanded or a well with a sump is built.

The sump is the lowest part of the trunk, located below the level of the impermeable layer.

Wooden wells

If the material for constructing the well is wood, then the walls of the shaft are reinforced with logs or cobblestones. In this case, the cross section of the well trunk is a square or rectangle.

Construction of a log house

The first step in building a well is digging a shaft. If the mine is dug in quicksand, loose, soft or weak soil, then as it deepens, the finished walls are strengthened with formwork. In medium and hard soil, no formwork is required.

The depth of the mine depends on the depth of the aquifer; this value is determined even before the start of excavation work using special instruments. As you approach the calculated depth of the shaft, the vertical walls should be strengthened with formwork.

After the shaft is dug to the required depth, the accumulated water is pumped out of it, the bottom is leveled and the frame is installed - the lower crown of the log house. If the soil density is less than weak, then the frame may tilt under the weight of the upper crowns. To prevent this from happening, large flagstones are placed under the corners of the frame in such soils. And so that the log house does not float up when the well is filled with water, the lower crown is dug into the ground (after installing 2-3 subsequent crowns).

Next, the subsequent crowns of the log house are laid. To more tightly connect the crowns of the log house with each other, each log is planted with blows from a badger (large mallet), however, the blows are applied not directly to the log, but to a wooden spacer placed on it.

It should be remembered that in each individual wall of the log house the top of the stacked log must lie on the butt of the already laid

After laying each crown, you should check the verticality of the walls of the log house using a plumb line.

At the level of the sixth crown, work on the construction of the log house is temporarily stopped and the filter layer is backfilled, for which the bottom of the well is covered with layers: large gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm), medium-sized gravel (5 cm), coarse river sand (20 cm).

In the event that the water receiving part of the trunk reaches the lower waterproof layer and water enters the well not only from the bottom, but also through the lower part of the log house, then for its influx, holes must be made in the grooves of the logs of the lower crowns, and the gap between the outer side of the log house and fill the walls of the shaft 10 cm above the aquifer with gravel or crushed stone. Moreover, the thickness of the backfill should be at least 25-30 cm.

Arrangement of collaterals for a wooden log house: 1 - flagstone or board; 2 - deposit; 3 - wedge

As the log house is being made, to secure it more firmly, pledges are made every 5-6 crowns: the logs for the crowns with pledges are taken not of a specified length, but 50 cm longer. The elongated ends of the logs are placed into specially constructed trenches, the soil in which is carefully compacted (see figure). If the soil is loose, then large flagstones or thick boards made of hard (but moisture-resistant) wood should be placed as collateral. Fastening the bail in the ground will be more reliable if it is jammed.

The grooves of the crowns of the part of the log house that will be above the water are coated with greasy clay. This is done to prevent soil water and perched water from leaking into the well. This can be avoided if a clay castle is used to insulate the well (coating the outer surface of the log house walls with greasy clay). If the castle is installed along the entire length of the log house, then a clay layer thickness of 15-20 cm is sufficient. If the castle is installed only in its upper part (about 2.5 m), then the thickness of the clay layer should be at least 30-40 cm.

It is not recommended to soak the walls of the log house with an antiseptic, paint them, or caulk grooves and cracks with hemp or tow. All these measures negatively affect the taste, and most importantly, the quality of water.

The gap between the outer walls of the log house and the walls of the shaft (regardless of the presence or absence of a clay castle) is filled with layers of soil removed during digging of the shaft, each layer of backfill is carefully compacted.

After the last crown of the underground part of the well shaft has been laid, the area around the well is covered with logs, on which thick boards are laid (the boardwalk is attached to the logs with long nails). Mandatory condition: the flooring must completely cover the edges of the backfilled shaft. Then the ground part of the well - the head - is made and installed on the upper crown of the trunk. After this, an embankment of soil with a slope from the well (with a diameter of at least 2 m) should be built on top of the flooring. The top of the embankment is coated with a layer of greasy clay and concreted or laid out with concrete slabs or flagstones.

Construction of a log house using the lowering method with building crowns from above

At the beginning of construction work, a pit is dug no more than 3-5 m deep. The bottom of the pit is carefully leveled and compacted. Then a lowering frame made of logs or timber is placed on it. The frame must have pointed legs, or knives made of sheet, strip or angle steel must be attached to its edges (Fig. 21). The cross-sectional size of the frame must exceed the same size of the ordinary crowns of the log house.

Two frame rims are placed on the lowering frame. The logs of these crowns must be larger than the logs of ordinary crowns and protrude from the outside of the log house by at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that when the log house is lowered, the clay from the grooves between the ordinary crowns (clay castle) does not crumble or be wiped off.

2-3 privates are placed on the frame crowns. The crowns are pressed together with a leopard, and the grooves between the crowns are coated with greasy clay. After checking the verticality of the walls, thick boards are nailed to the logs along the inside of the log house with long nails. From the outside of the log house, guides are nailed to the logs (see figure), their task is to ensure fastening strength and rigidity of the entire structure.

Around the erected part of the log house (close to the guides) four logs are placed, connected “into a bowl”. The corners formed by the logs are fixed with stakes about 10 cm thick, which are driven into the ground. The connection of the logs with each other, as well as the places of their contact with the stakes, are secured with staples. This design will allow the log house to be lowered strictly vertically, without distortions.

Devices for erecting a lower frame: a) – frame with pointed legs; b) - frames with cutting knives

When the lower rims of the log house are secured, and the equipment for lowering the log house is installed, soil is removed from under the walls.

To lift buckets upward, various devices are used in the form of a tripod with a block, a crane, a vertical or horizontal gate.

After removing the soil to a depth equal to the height of the already constructed log house, the top of the log house is covered with boards, and a load is placed on the boards, under the pressure of which the log house lowers down.

Further construction of the log house and its lowering into the well trunk is carried out in the same order.

As the length of the log house increases, fastening boards are added on the inside of the frame and guides on the outside. Once the construction of the well is completed, the inner boards are removed and the guides remain in the ground.

The construction of the well is completed in the same way as the previous method: by manufacturing and installing the above-ground part of the log house and installing blind areas around the well.

Tube wells

Reinforced concrete rings, brick and stone masonry are used as building materials to secure the vertical walls of the well shaft.

Tube wells are more hygienic because, unlike wood, concrete, stone and brick absorb foreign impurities and odors much less and are easier to use.
clean.

Prefabricated wells made of reinforced concrete elements

For the construction of prefabricated reinforced concrete wells, reinforced concrete rings are most often used.

In the dug pit of the well shaft, the first reinforced concrete ring is installed on the leveled bottom, the outer diameter of which should exceed the outer diameter of the row rings by 5-6 cm. To make the ring cut into the bottom soil more easily, you can use any of the following options: a steel ring is installed along the lower edge of the flashing ring knife with pins. If the lower edge of the ring has a cone-shaped narrowing, then you can do without a knife.

To prevent contaminated water from leaking into the well through the connecting seam between the casing ring and the first row, the joint is sealed with tarred fibrous material (hemp, rope, etc.). The outer surface of the joints is sealed with cement mortar after installing the entire well shaft.

Then the rings are fastened together with steel staples about 20 cm long. The staples can be installed both on the outside of the barrel and on the inside. The holes after installing the brackets are also sealed with cement-sand mortar. Before installation, the staples themselves are coated with a layer of oil paint and dried well.

For the convenience of carrying out repair and maintenance work, a vertical ladder is installed inside the well shaft. For its construction, staples are used.

After installing the entire well shaft, the outer side of the joints between the rings is cemented, and the gap between their outer walls and the vertical walls of the shaft is filled with soil, which is carefully compacted. Next, the protective flooring is removed from the bottom of the well and a filter layer of gravel, crushed stone or river sand is installed.

A head is installed on the upper edge of the upper ring, and blind areas and fencing are made around the well.

In addition to rings, you can build a prefabricated reinforced concrete well from plates (bars). The ends of the reinforced concrete bars must be molded “into a claw”, and the trunk of such a well is assembled by analogy with a cobblestone log house.

Wells made using brickwork method

In addition to brick (red or iron ore), for the construction of a tubular brick well you will need several round frames - flat rings, the internal diameter of which should be equal to the diameter of the future well - and anchors with washers and nuts, at the rate of 6 anchors for each frame.

The main frame (it is installed at the bottom of the well) should be the strongest; it is made of reinforced concrete, metal or bog oak. The thickness of the main frame is 9-10 cm, and the width should slightly exceed the thickness of the masonry. A steel knife is installed along the entire outer edge of the frame with the blade facing down. 6 holes for anchors are drilled in the frame at equal distances from each other.

Intermediate and upper frames can be made from wooden boards no more than 8 cm thick. Their width may be slightly less than the thickness of the masonry. The boards are fastened together with long nails, the ends of which should be bent. 12 holes for anchors are drilled in the intermediate frames, and 6 in the upper frames.

6 anchors are firmly secured to the lower frame using washers and nuts and lowered into the pit, checking with a level that its installation is horizontal. The intermediate frame is placed on the anchors of the lower frame and firmly secured. For greater strength, the structure is secured on top with logs (see figure).

Some stages of the construction of round brick wells: a) – frames with anchors; b) installation of anchors in the intermediate frame; c) – plastering the inner wall of the well: 1) beacons; 2) fry

After all the preparatory activities, you can proceed directly to the laying. A bed of cement-sand mortar 1-1.5 cm thick is placed on the main frame and leveled, on which the bricks of the first row of masonry are laid. The masonry is carried out using only bonded rows or alternating them with spoon rows, but in any case, the first two rows of masonry are carried out only in bonded rows.

To make it more convenient to maintain the round shape of the well trunk, you can make a template from waterproof plywood in the form of a ring of two halves and use it to control the quality of the masonry.

In the bricks laid near the anchors, recesses are made for the anchors, which are filled with mortar. Since the masonry is carried out along a ring, and the inner diameter of the ring is smaller than the outer one, a gap forms on the outside between the bricks, which should be sealed with fragments of brick mixed with mortar. To ensure the strength of the masonry, it is reinforced with thin double wire every 3-4 rows.

When there is a gap of 5-6 cm between the masonry and the intermediate frame, the masonry is suspended and anchors are secured to the frame, the gap is sealed with a mixture of masonry mortar with crushed stone or gravel (in a ratio of 1: 3) and thoroughly compacted.

Next, you should plaster the lined walls with cement-sand mortar both inside and outside the well shaft. For the plastering process, you will need 6 smooth, even slats with a length corresponding to the length of the anchor, and a screed - a wooden semicircle, the radius of which is equal to half the diameter of the well. The slats will act as beacons. They are attached to the wall at the locations of the anchors. Plastering is carried out in two stages: first the spray is applied, and then the main outline. To level the tent, rest the fry on two adjacent beacons and, using its up and down movements, level the solution. The beacons are then removed, and the recesses remaining from them are sealed with mortar. After plastering the first grip (the distance between the main and intermediate frames), soil sampling continues - the shaft is deepened by 1 - 1.5 m. Then a second intermediate frame is installed on the anchors of the first intermediate frame and masonry continues. To fix the well at the required depth, flagstones or reinforced concrete slabs of such a size are placed under the knife of the main frame that they protrude beyond the boundaries of the well by at least 0.5 m.

Upon completion of the construction of the brick shaft, the bottom of the well is cleaned and filled with a filter layer of crushed stone, gravel or coarse river sand.

The head of a brick well can also be made of brickwork, but without frames and anchors. The top of the masonry is reinforced with steel wire and poured into the formwork with cement-sand mortar to a height of 20-25 cm.

For better resistance to precipitation, the upper edge of the head should be rubbed with iron plating (sprinkled with dry cement and rubbed with a trowel).