The fence that marks the boundaries of a personal plot, just like other buildings on it, can have a rather original design. Stone fences with gates and wickets on the front side are particularly complex.

It is the openings that are the main topic of our article, in which instructions will be given and a video will be offered. After reading them, you will learn how to make a gate from stone and other materials stylized as stone.

First of all, you need to take into account that the style of the fence, of which the gate is an integral part, must duplicate the architecture of the house. Only in this case will they look organic.

Although stone is both natural and decorative, its appearance goes well with almost many types of materials: wood, brick, plaster and even siding (see).

What can we say about the fact that a stone fence creates the impression of solidity and inaccessibility of the structure. As a rule, it has both a gate and a wicket - the height of their doors usually does not exceed 180 cm. The gate consists of a pair of leaves and has a total width of 3-3.5 m. The width of the gate leaf usually varies from 0.95 to 1.2 m.

Design features

If the length of the front part of the fence does not allow you to install both, you have to make do with only a gate. A legitimate question arises: “What to do if you need to drive vehicles onto the site?”

So:

• In such cases, you can provide a dismantled span of the fence, allowing you to easily remove it and just as easily and quickly install it in place. A stone fence is, of course, not the case when something can be easily dismantled - after all, this structure is permanent and cannot be dismantled.
• Therefore, before building it, you need to calculate everything in advance. One gate can be completely sufficient when the plot is small and the house is located in close proximity to the fence. Then, in case you have to bring large things into the yard, you can provide a wide gate - you can even, as in the photo below, a double-leaf one (see).

• It is clear that the gate leaves cannot be made of stone. Here the palm goes to wood (see) and metal, but today you can increasingly see fences and gates with gates, sheathed with a composite board (decking), as well as profiled steel sheet, the surface of which is stylized as masonry.

Stone as a structural material is used only for the construction of the foundation of the fence, support pillars, including those framing the passages.

The greatest difficulty is the arched vault over the gate, but it must be said that it is not a mandatory element. Much depends on the height and design of the fence: if it is low, columnar, you can do without an arch over the gate.

Stone fencing with opening

A stone gate built with your own hands allows you to get significant savings, because the labor intensity of the process also dictates the cost of the services of hired specialists, which is quite high. The price of a stone depends not only on the type, but also on the method of cutting and processing.

There’s nothing you can do about it—whatever there is enough money for, that’s what preference is given. In some regions with predominantly rocky soil, stones for a fence are not a problem at all; they can be collected, as they say, in the garden - without using valuable rocks for this.

Note! The construction of a fence, like any other, must begin with a drawing. In this case, it should indicate the length and thickness of the fence, the location of support points and passages, the distance between supports, as well as the width of the gate and wicket openings. This approach will help determine with the greatest reliability how much and what material will be needed, as well as calculate the cost of this structure.

• The technology for constructing a fence and, accordingly, a gate in it is selected depending on the shape and size of the stone and the intended aesthetics of the structure. It is easiest to work with sawn stone, as it has flat edges and a regular geometric shape. But this option is practically not used for fences.

Why buy an expensive stone if a similar result can be achieved using a cheaper stone-look brick? Moreover, boulders or river pebbles can often be collected for free.

For the construction of fences, so-called “torn” (wild) stone is often used. These are various sedimentary rocks: sandstone, dolomite, marl - not processed, but having a shape predetermined by nature.

Construction of supports

The arrangement of a fence, like any construction, begins with preparing the territory and marking it. First of all, you need to mark the line of the fence, driving in pegs at the points where the support posts will be located.

If the fence is built on a strip foundation with a shallow depth, a trench is dug along the markings. Then, as expected, formwork is installed, reinforcement is laid, and concrete is poured.

• If the construction of a fence is made with rubble stone, then it can be used not only for the construction of the ground part of the pillar, but also its foundation. Torn stone is used only in the ground part of such a structure and often only for laying out the front sides. The inside of such a fence can be filled with anything: broken bricks, large crushed stone, fragments of stones, sand-cement mixture.

The strength of a column-type fence is given by vertical metal posts embedded in concrete. If the fence is solid, a mesh is stretched between the posts, to which stones are attached with anchors. But even in this case, in the place where the gate is located, there must be two support pillars on which the doors will be hung.

Foundation part

The technology for constructing columnar supports is as follows. A hole is dug in the ground, the size corresponding to the cross-section of the support - a depth of 70-80 cm is quite enough.

Of this, 25 cm will be spent on preparing the base: 10 cm - compacted sand cushion and 15 cm - crushed stone filling. Next, a metal stand is installed in the hole, and the free space is filled with concrete.

To prevent the laitance from being absorbed into the soil, the excavation is first lined with polyethylene. Concreting is carried out to the level of the ground surface, after which the column foundation must be given at least a week to gain a certain strength. The verticality of the stand is checked immediately, before the concrete has hardened, so its position can be easily adjusted.

Ground part

Further actions depend on what type of stone will be used for masonry. If this is a rubble, which, as you know, has a rounded shape, you need to make formwork like this around the rack, as shown above.

The stones are laid around the perimeter of the formwork, and the middle of the pillar is simply filled with concrete. This method is called “bay laying”.

So:

• The height of the formwork should not exceed 30cm. It is removed after a few days, when the masonry mortar has properly hardened, and moved higher in order to fill the next row. This method of laying stone takes a lot of time, but it is the least labor-intensive and does not require highly qualified masons.

• If the stone is planked, that is, it has at least two parallel sides, the masonry will be more stable and can do without formwork. The method of laying it is called “under the shoulder blade”. In this case, the stones are selected by size, tried on dry, after which they are placed on a bed of mortar. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seams between the stones do not coincide, but are staggered.
• They must be filled with high-quality solution both outside and inside. For external filling of joints, you can prepare a separate solution by adding a colored tint. In order not to disturb the masonry, the internal cavity of the column is filled after the masonry mortar has hardened.

• By the way, it is not at all necessary to use natural stone to lay pillars. On sale there are these three-dimensional concrete elements, stylized as masonry, which you see in the photo above. They are stacked on top of each other, replacing both formwork and stone, which greatly simplifies the work.

Their cavity is similarly reinforced with a metal frame and filled with mortar. This design is closed with a beautiful head and looks neat and quite respectable when finished. But if you want an arched gate, you will still have to use natural stone.

Arched vault gate

The opening for a gate in a stone fence can be formed not only by two separate pillars. Thanks to the ordinary lintel, it can look like the letter “P”, but a rectangular opening does not look as interesting as a wedge or arched one. Curvilinear lintels are arranged using formwork, which must have the appropriate shape.

• The arch is laid out from an odd number of interlocking rows of bricks or stones having a similar shape. Why an odd number? The fact is that the central row should be located strictly at the central point of the opening, and the outer rows (heels) should rest on columnar supports.

• The formwork of the arched lintel is made according to a given radius and is supported by supporting arches, which are called circles. The stone should have a wedge shape and, if necessary, it should be hewn. It is very difficult to lay an arch out of rubble stone, and it does not look so elegant, so a stone fence may well have an arched brick lintel.
• By the way, bricks with a wedge-shaped cross-section are made for this purpose. The stone can also be cut by the manufacturer into a wedge shape, but it is much easier for the craftsman to trim the one from which he builds a fence. The arched vault is laid out evenly on both sides, from the heel to the top. A brick or stone of a similar shape is placed on a narrow edge. Accordingly, the thickened edge will be at the top.

• The seams between the elements of the arched lintel must be filled with high-quality mortar. Particular attention should be paid to the pattern of ligation of seams, as well as the correctness of their direction. Control is carried out using a cord and a special template made in accordance with the radius of the arch.

Its arch is laid out as quickly as possible; the masonry mortar should not harden until the moment when the circles are weakened. The formwork is removed no earlier than after a week, provided that it is warm and dry outside. Otherwise, it will take much more time.

CIRCLE

CIRCLE

CIRCLE, circled, wed.

1. A device for laying stone vaults, in the form of an arc made of boards (special).

2. Rotating pottery wheel (special).

3. In the old days in Russia - a drinking house, a tavern (source). “He would still be wandering around in circles and playing with the boyar children.” May .

Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary. D.N. Ushakov. 1935-1940.

See what "CIRCULATED" is in other dictionaries:

Tavern, tavern, cellar, drinking establishment, arc, drinking house Dictionary of Russian synonyms. circled see tavern Dictionary of synonyms of the Russian language. Practical guide. M.: Russian language. Z. E. Alexandrova ... Synonym dictionary

circled- CIRCLE, arch. - Tavern, drinking establishment. – Many service people first received a small deposit for food and clothing and walked in the sovereign’s circle (1.47). Sl.RYA XI XVII 8. 82 83: circled (in 8th meaning) “the same” (XVII century) ... Dictionary of the trilogy “The Sovereign's Estate”

- (a. support master frame; n. Lehrgerust, Lehrgezimmer, Lehrring; f. cintre; i. cercha, cerchon) template for the construction of stone or concrete (reinforced concrete) support of a curvilinear outline in horizontal, inclined, vertical forges... ... Geological encyclopedia

CIRCLE, ah, cf. 1. A supporting arch (usually made of boards), on top of which a stone vault (special) is laid. 2. In the old days: drinking establishment, tavern. Ozhegov's explanatory dictionary. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. 1949 1992 … Ozhegov's Explanatory Dictionary

- (Ball caliber) (old) a device for calibrating projectiles. Samoilov K.I. Marine dictionary. M. L.: State Naval Publishing House of the NKVMF of the USSR, 1941 ... Marine Dictionary

circled- A horizontal beam that connects the sliding formwork panels and takes the pressure of the concrete mixture. [GOST R 52086 2003] Subjects: formwork ... Technical Translator's Guide

Circled- – an auxiliary device for temporary support of formwork during the construction of stone and reinforced concrete structures with a curved outline (arches, vaults, domes). [Great Soviet Encyclopedia. M.: Soviet Encyclopedia. 1969… … Encyclopedia of terms, definitions and explanations of building materials

In circles. Simple Outdated An even line around the head (cut, etc.). F 1, 265 ... Large dictionary of Russian sayings

circled- 105 circled A horizontal beam that combines sliding formwork panels and absorbs the pressure of the concrete mixture Source: GOST R 52086 2003: Formwork. Terms and definitions original document... Dictionary-reference book of terms of normative and technical documentation

An auxiliary device (mainly made of wood) for temporary support of formwork (See Formwork) during the construction of stone and reinforced concrete building structures of a curved outline (arches, vaults, domes) ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

Books

• Methodical manual “From words to deeds.” Part 2 "Spinning". Part 3 “Health”, Sergey Demin. The methodological manual provides practical exercises for developing flexibility and coordination of movements using the Kruzhalo and Zdrava systems...

Support arc made of boards

The first letter is "k"

Second letter "r"

Third letter "u"

The last letter in the letter is "o"

Answer for the question "Support arc made of planks", 7 letters:
circled

Alternative crossword questions for the word circled

A supporting arc (usually made of boards) along which a stone vault is laid

In construction: a device for laying stone vaults in the form of an arc made of boards or metal

Tavern before

Drinking house, tavern

Rotating pottery wheel

Catering establishment

Wooden support arch

Definition of the word circled in dictionaries

New explanatory dictionary of the Russian language, T. F. Efremova. The meaning of the word in the dictionary New explanatory dictionary of the Russian language, T. F. Efremova.
Wed A device for laying stone vaults in the form of an arc made of boards or metal (in construction). Wed Rotating potter's wheel. Wed outdated Drinking house, tavern.

Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language. D.N. Ushakov The meaning of the word in the dictionary Explanatory Dictionary of the Russian Language. D.N. Ushakov
circled, wed. A device for laying stone vaults, in the form of an arc made of boards (special). Rotating pottery wheel (special). In the old days in Russia - a drinking house, a tavern (historical). He would still wander around in circles and play with the boyar children. May.

Examples of the use of the word circled in literature.

The third - on the corner tower, bypassing the other two with the same cannons and cannonballs, - on the corner tower, which is towards the settlement, in the middle battle there is a short copper arquebus in a machine on wheels, in circling the core is two hryvnia, and to it the core is one hundred and fifty-two.

Fourth - on the Red Gate, which from the Kremlin to the Volga, in the tower there is a copper arquebus in a machine on wheels, in circling a core is two hryvnia, with one hundred and twenty-five cores attached.

Big-lipped fellow circled with a cry he fell between the carbass and the boat, and when Ryabov pulled him out of the water, the big-lipped man’s eyes turned white with fear - he recognized the helmsman.

Among them we can name such systems as Slavic-Goritsky wrestling, buza, skobar, forest warrior, kolo, funeral feast, fierce battle, circled, Cheldon, butt and others.

IN circled, - Dokuka said with dignity and, looking around, lowered his voice with concern: - And who caught it?

A greenhouse created with your own hands is not only a useful building for a summer cottage or garden plot, but also an excellent opportunity to apply your knowledge, experience and skills in working with various materials and tools in practice. The most important part of the greenhouse is the frame, the quality of which determines the strength and durability of the building. It consists of a set of straight and rounded elements connected by welding, bolts or self-tapping screws. Let's look at the most difficult elements to manufacture - arcs for a greenhouse.

First, let's look at the advantages of the arched design of greenhouses, where those same arcs are used as the main element of the frame.

1. Effective light diffusion at any time of the day and at any angle of the sun to the horizon - this is the main advantage.
2. Reduced material consumption for cladding and frame - an arched greenhouse will cost much less than a gable one. This applies to both purchased options and various homemade products.
3. The following follows from the previous advantages of arched structures: light weight, and therefore no need for powerful and expensive .
4. Another advantage of light weight is ease of moving the building to a new place.
5. If necessary, an arched greenhouse can be extended without any problems, connecting new arcs and horizontal ties to the previously installed frame.
6. Due to their shape and height, greenhouses assembled from arcs and securely fixed to the foundation or ground have high resistance to wind loads.
7. Greenhouse shape allows you to clear it of snow in winter without any problems.

Important! If you do not have the opportunity or desire to regularly visit your summer cottage from December to March just to clear the greenhouse of snow, make the structure not semicircular, but pointed, as in the image below. In addition to the unusual appearance, construction of this form does not allow large snow masses to accumulate on the cladding.

But in addition to the advantages, a competent master should also know about the disadvantages of the design he will make. Firstly, glass cannot be used as cladding for greenhouses assembled from arcs - yes, theoretically it can be bent into semicircular sheets, but this is too complicated and expensive, and practically impossible at home. Secondly, for such a construction there is often a need to install additional supports and jibs - a lighter and cheaper structure is also weaker. Thirdly, the manufacture of arcs for a greenhouse itself is a complex and labor-intensive process.

An arched greenhouse is an indispensable assistant for any gardener, both experienced and beginner. An arched structure (both factory-made and home-made) is assembled from arc-shaped elements, which you can make yourself if you wish. What are there, and what can you make them from with your own hands?

Prices for arcs for a greenhouse

arcs for greenhouse

Arcs for greenhouses - types and materials used

Now let’s find out what greenhouse arcs are and what they are made of. From a structural point of view, there are two main types of arches - solid and composite.

Solid arcs for greenhouses, as the name implies, are an inseparable semicircular structure made from one piece of material, be it wood, plastic or metal. On the one hand, this provides increased strength of this structural element, since there are no weak points in the form of various connections, fastenings and seams. But at the same time, making such an arc is much more difficult, especially if it needs to be made of wood. In addition, the complexity of transportation increases - in most cases, arcs for a greenhouse are 2.5-3 m wide and 2-2.5 m high, so you will have to use a truck to transport them.

Composite arches for greenhouses are the complete opposite of the previous ones. They are a set of several (from 2-3 to 15 or more) individual elements that, when combined, produce a finished arc. Much easier to manufacture, since you will need to cut out or bend individual and relatively short parts. Also, to transport them, if necessary, the trunk or back seat of a car is sufficient. But at the same time, the strength of composite arcs for greenhouses in some cases may be inferior to their solid counterparts.

Both of the above types of arched structures are made of the following materials:

• metal;
• tree;
• plastic.

Let's look at them separately. Metal arcs are characterized by high strength and average weight. They are made from many types of profiles, some of which are presented in the table below.

Table. The main materials used for the manufacture of metal greenhouse arcs.

Important! When choosing a profile for greenhouse arcs, be sure to pay attention to the thickness of the metal walls. If it is small, then the resulting arches will be weak and unreliable. In addition, choose only those metal products that are protected against corrosion, or purchase additional powder paint or cold zinc (in the form of an aerosol).

Unlike metal, wood is exotic when making arcs for greenhouses at home - bending a straight board or a set of slats into an arch is possible, but quite difficult; this requires experience and appropriate skills. But if they are not enough, there is always the opportunity to make a composite arc from many individually cut strips. Later in the article you will learn how to do this.

Very often, arcs for agricultural buildings, especially greenhouses or small greenhouses, are made of plastic or polyvinyl chloride pipes or profiles - these materials are flexible, cheap and easy to process. But the other side of the coin is the low strength of the resulting structure - in most cases, greenhouses with plastic arches are temporary structures with polyethylene sheathing, dismantled in the fall and put back together before the start of the next summer season.

Important! Separately, it is worth mentioning the presence of additional structures for fastening. The simplest arc for a greenhouse may not have them and can be connected to other parts of the frame using welding, corners and self-tapping screws. But to some arches, skilled craftsmen attach “branches”, with the help of which the arch and ties can be securely fastened by inserting one into the other and securing with bolts and nuts. An example of such a design is shown in the image below.

Making arcs from profiled pipes

Making arches from a greenhouse from a profiled pipe of square or rectangular cross-section requires some skill and craftsmanship - it is necessary to observe at least approximate dimensions in the absence or imperfection of special measuring instruments. In addition, you need to be careful and avoid the formation of dents on the inner wall of the arc, violation of the axial symmetry of the profile and divergence of the weld. In this section, we will consider two methods for making metal arcs that do not require heating of the workpieces - using a homemade or purchased pipe bending machine and manually, using a template.

A pipe bending machine is a mechanism consisting of two fixed elements and one movable one. The latter is lowered or raised using a jack or an adjusting screw. Due to this, the radius of curvature, which is given to the profiled pipe on the machine, changes. The latter is driven by a manual drive or an electric motor - the workpiece is pulled along the rollers several times until the desired shape is achieved.

Advice! Operation of a manual pipe bender can be simplified using a toothed chain. It is pulled between large sprockets on fixed rollers and a small one on a manual drive. As a result, it is possible, with little effort, to impart significant torque to the machine mechanism.

You can learn how to make your own pipe bending machine from the videos presented in the following sections of the article. Here we will look at how to use it and how to make strong arches for a greenhouse with an arched frame.

Step 1. Determine the length of the future arc and the radius of curvature. This can be done either using mathematical formulas, or by making a workpiece of the appropriate shape from wire. By the way, in the future it will be needed as a kind of pattern.

Step 2. Prepare the profiled pipes - cut the pieces to the required length, clean them from rust, if any.

Step 3. Prepare the pipe bending machine for operation, check its completeness and functionality.

Step 4. Using the machine's adjusting mechanism, select a slight bend, place the straight profiled pipe on the rollers and make one roll.

Step 5. Unfold and insert the workpiece into the machine with the other side, roll it on the rollers again.

Step 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the curvature of the profiled pipe no longer changes.

Step 7 Check the resulting product against the template. If the shape does not yet correspond to the desired one, set a larger radius of curvature on the control mechanism, insert a curved profiled pipe and repeat the three previous steps until the arc takes on the desired shape.

Important! Please note that the first few arcs are trial ones, with their help you will gain the necessary experience and skills in working with the machine. Since the shaping of the profiled pipe into the desired shape occurs gradually, mark out intermediate values ​​of curvature on the adjusting screw or jack using a pencil or chalk.

Making an arc manually using a cold method is allowed only for profile pipes with small wall thickness and a cross-section of 20x20 mm or less.

Step 1. Determine the arc length and radius of curvature.

Step 2. Assemble a pattern from wood, plywood or corner profile. To do this, you will need a flat and large enough area or workbench.

Step 3. Secure the pattern and one end of the pipe attached to it to the platform or workbench using clamps.

Step 4. Grab the other end of the profile pipe (for convenience, you can put another pipe of a larger diameter on it, which in this case plays the role of a lever) and slowly, carefully bend the workpiece along the pattern. Be prepared to put in a lot of effort.

Step 5. Upon completion of the bending process, compare the parameters of the resulting arc with the wire template and inspect for defects. If they are not serious or are completely absent, then the resulting part is suitable for the greenhouse frame.

Step 6. Repeat the previous steps to make the remaining arches.

Video - How to make a pipe bender at home

Video - Arc on a greenhouse in 2 minutes

Making metal arcs using cuts

This method of manufacturing metal arches for a greenhouse is used mainly for plasterboard profiles, less often for rectangular and square steel pipes. The reason lies in the fact that this method itself is very labor-intensive, and the strength of the finished arc will be lower than when using a pipe bender or hot bending. In any case, this method is also worth considering.

Step 1. Cut a straight section of drywall or rectangular pipe that matches the length of the arc.

Step 2. On the drawing, mark points for making cuts. For most greenhouses they are applied at intervals of 150-250 mm. Transfer the markings to the metal using chalk.

Step 3. Place the workpiece on the workbench, clamp it in a vice or clamps.

Step 4. Use a grinder to make cuts. Be careful when doing this - the saw blade should not touch the outer side of the future arc. If you are working with a plasterboard profile, it is advisable to use metal scissors instead of a grinder.

Step 5. Clean the cuts from any remaining metal.

Step 6. Bend the profile to the required state. For large parts, it is advisable to use a template pre-assembled on the ground.

Step 7 If the arc is made from a square or rectangular profiled pipe, seal the cuts by welding, clean the seams and coat them with paint or zinc to prevent corrosion.

Important! Using a similar principle, you can make arches from wood - make triangular cuts in it, bend a board or beam along them and close the cuts with a glued strip on the inside of the arch.

Prices for metal profiles for drywall

metal profile for plasterboard

Arcs for greenhouses made of PVC pipes

As mentioned above, arcs for greenhouses made of plastic are characterized by ease of manufacture and low cost of material, but at the same time comparatively low strength compared to wood or metal. First, let's look at the simplest way to make an arch from a PVC pipe, suitable only for temporary structures covered with polyethylene.

Step 1. Cut a straight pipe to the required length.

Step 2. Make supports - pieces of metal reinforcement stuck into the ground and extending 25-30 cm or more out of it.

Step 3. If an arc is being made for the end wall of a film greenhouse, assemble an internal frame from boards and plywood (in the form of a trapezoid).

Step 4. Slowly bend the pipe at both ends. Given its length, you will need a helper.

Step 5. If the arc is made of PVC pipe at the end, stretch it onto the frame assembled in step 3 and secure it with wood screws.

Step 6. Then “pull” the ends of the PVC pipe onto the pieces of reinforcement sticking out of the ground. If the structure has a foundation made of timber, secure the arc with a metal bracket and self-tapping screws.

Step 7 Repeat the previous operations with the remaining arcs and then proceed to cover the frame with plastic film.

The next method of making arches from polyvinyl chloride pipes involves the use of special equipment and some consumables. As a result, you will receive a fairly strong arc on which you can attach not only a plastic film, but also a 4 mm thick one.

Step 1. Cut two PVC pipes equal in length to half the length of the greenhouse arch.

Step 2. Prepare supports for them in the form of pieces of reinforcement driven into the ground, extending 25-30 cm above ground level.

Step 3. If an end arch is being made, prepare a T-fitting whose inside diameter is equal to the outside diameter of the PVC pipe. For intermediate arches, use fittings in the form of crosses.

Step 4. Clean and degrease the top ends of the pipes, then chamfer them slightly. You also need to clean the fittings from dirt, moisture and grease.

Step 5. Apply special glue to the outer surface of the pipe ends and the inner surface of the fitting. The composition used is a fairly powerful “cold welding”, which will ensure a reliable connection of all PVC elements.

Step 6. Insert the pipe into the fitting, rotate it 90° and fix it in this position for 30-60 seconds - during this time the glue will set and connect both polyvinyl chloride elements.

Step 7 Repeat the previous operation, but with the other pipe and the opposite end of the fitting.

Step 8 Start bending the resulting structure, while being careful. Slowly install it onto the metal pegs and secure it to the greenhouse foundation using perforated metal strip and screws.

Important! Instead of using glue, the junction of the pipe and fitting can be heated to 180-260°C (depending on the material used). Also, using high temperatures, you can bend solid arches from plastic pipes and profiles - the inner side of the arch is heated with a construction hairdryer, the material softens, and a bend is created at this point.

Making wooden arcs for a greenhouse

It is possible to create such parts from wood, but it is very difficult - in order not to break the workpieces during the bending process, some experience and dexterity are required. Therefore, as an alternative, there is another way to make a wooden arc for a greenhouse - a composite element assembled from many trapezoidal planks. Let's consider both methods in turn, starting with bending the wood according to the pattern.

First, it’s worth talking about the source material. The wood for the arch must be of very high quality, without a large number of knots and signs of rotting. In addition, it should not be too dry (this can be corrected by soaking). Having chosen the wood, you need to start assembling the pattern stand. It consists of a platform made of plywood and a set of bars or other protruding elements that act as limiters that give the workpiece a rounded shape. Examples of such products are presented in the images below.

Arch bending stand

Now let's proceed directly to bending the arcs. For this, slats or boards with a thickness of 15-20 mm are used.

Metal bed support Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up “Opifer”) 18122821AK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki (Opifer standing support) for a tubular metal bed. The model is attached to both edges of the bed, lift-turn function, open support arch with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122821AK

Model: Basic model for tubular metal bed, bed width (total) 65-115 cm. For use by people weighing no more than 120 kg.

Functions:

Metal bed support Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up “Opifer”) 18122811NK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki (Opifer stand-up support) for wooden or metal beds, lift-turn function, triangular support arch with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122811NK

Model:

Functions: Attached to both edges of the bed, the support arch can be slightly raised and rotated into three different positions. Helps people with limited mobility get out of bed and move safely around the bed.

Metal bed support Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up “Opifer”) 18122811AK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki (Opifer standing support) for wooden or metal beds. The model is attached to both edges of the bed, lift-turn function, open support arch with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122811AK

Model: Basic model for wooden or metal beds, bed side height 6 - 18 cm, bed width (total) 65-115 cm. For use by people weighing no more than 120 kg.

Functions: Attached to both edges of the bed, the support arch can be slightly raised and rotated into three different positions. Helps people with limited mobility get out of bed and move safely around the bed.

Metal bed support Opifer Nousutuki (Support for standing up “Opifer”) 18122840AKYPK

Product Description: Opifer Nousutuki (Opifer standing support) for wooden or metal beds. The model is mounted on one side and attached to both edges of the bed, lift-turn function, open support arch with three fixed positions.

Product order code: 18122840AKYPK

Model: Special model for wooden or metal beds, bed side height 6 - 18 cm, bed width (total) 65-115 cm. For use by people weighing no more than 120 kg.

Functions: Simplified installation method. Installed on the bed on one side and attached to both edges, the support arch can be slightly raised and rotated into three different positions. Helps people with limited mobility get out of bed and move safely around the bed.