Preparing garden flowers for winter. Autumn preparation of flower beds for winter frosts. Mallow needs special care in autumn

You can’t call them sissies or whimsical people - they, like stalwart tin soldiers, are hardy and unpretentious. What are we talking about? About perennials that are so unpretentious that they can winter in open ground. But here’s the problem - they are not all equally hardened, so they need to be prepared for the cold in different ways, each needs an individual approach. Let's talk about the most common and favorite specimens by gardeners. Aquilegia (catchment area) requires almost no insulation. In October, trim off wilted leaves and stems, leaving stumps 5-7 cm high, and carefully mulch the exposed rhizomes at the base of the bushes and the ground around them.

Astilbe overwinters without shelter at a young age. Cut off the aerial part that has turned black after frost to the root. Hill up the base of the bush to a height of about 5 cm and mulch with a thin layer of peat or humus. But after 5 years of life, the “old lady” already needs a warmer shelter. Place a frame over the plant, fill it with dry leaves, cover it with non-woven insulation, and cover it with rain film on top.

Perennial asters bloom in late autumn and begin to dry out, and then they will need to be pruned at the root. Then fill the base of the bush with dry mulch, and cover the weakened plants with spruce branches or a thick layer of dried foliage.

Heucheras should not lose their leaves on the eve of winter. They retain their “hair” all year long, so in the fall, rid the plants only of the flower stalks. When frosts begin, hill up the root collar and mulch the ground under the bushes with dry peat or humus, or even better (if you can get it) with sphagnum moss. When frosts become the norm, cover the plants with spruce branches and, if there is no snow, with non-woven material. But be sure to leave a “window” for ventilation - without air access, heucheras tend to rot.

Delphinium can withstand temperatures down to -50°C without insulation, but only under a lush snowdrift. Therefore, when the “tops” wither, cut them off.

leaving stumps 15-20 cm high. To prevent water from flowing into the tubular stem, cover the sections with ordinary clay. If frosts come and there are no snowdrifts, mulch the rhizome and cover it with spruce branches.

Dicentra will safely survive the winter if you trim the wilted bush, leaving stumps no more than 3-5 cm, mulched and covered with spruce branches or non-woven material.

Irises (orcas) need to be pruned only after the stems have dried. Moreover, the height of the stumps should be no more than 10 cm. The most frost-resistant of the irises - Siberian - winter well without shelter; it is enough to mulch the rhizomes, which often rise above the ground. But if the winter is abnormally cold, it is better not to risk it and lay spruce branches on top of the mulch.

For “muslin ladies - varietal” irises, which are distinguished by a more pampered character, build a dry shelter so that moisture after the thaw does not get on the rhizomes.

Lavender can survive the winter outdoors, but only English (narrow-leaved) lavender. It is better to move the remaining representatives of this heat-loving family into pots during the cold season and arrange them at home on a heated balcony. In the fall, shorten the green stems of the “English woman” to 3 cm above the woody part. When it freezes, mulch the soil under the bush, and at the end of October - beginning of November, cover the plant with a thick layer of spruce branches. Experienced gardeners do not recommend wrapping lavender in leaves or covering material: this can cause the stems to rot.

Daylilies need to be removed from their flower stalks as soon as they fade and dry out. Postpone root pruning until late autumn, when the leaves have completely withered. Before you mulch your daylilies, make sure the cold lasts for a long time. If you insulate too early, the roots may begin to rot. The thickness of the mulch layer depends on the weather: the colder it is, the thicker it is. And in severe frosts, place more spruce branches on the mulch and throw snow - of course, if it falls by this time.

Mallow with ordinary flowers is just a mallow, but with double flowers it is already a hollyhock, a spoiled princess, dressed in silk, tender and sensitive. When the above-ground part withers, cut the plants almost to the root, and in October (depending on the weather) mulch with dry leaves, humus or peat. For young plants and not very hardy varieties, prepare spruce “paws” - they will collect snow around the rhizome and will not block access to air.

Monarda is very frost-resistant and therefore will not cause much trouble for gardeners. For trouble-free wintering, completely cut off the dried above-ground shoots, mulch them, and, in anticipation of severe frosts, cover them with spruce branches or a 20-centimeter layer of dry leaves.

Get rid of the above-ground parts of peonies in late autumn, but before frost arrives. By the way, experienced flower growers advise cutting the leaves and stems to be burned immediately: the fact is that pests and pathogens often nest comfortably on them for the winter. The cutting height is 10-15 cm from the ground. And don’t forget to pour high mounds of humus or rotted compost over the rhizomes of peonies: they will help protect the renewal buds that may appear on the surface from frost. Just in case, cover young bushes with dry leaves and spruce branches.

Get rid of the wilted “tops” of the rudbeckia two weeks before the expected cold weather, leaving stumps 10 cm high. Mulch them with humus or garden soil in a layer of about 5-7 cm, then sprinkle leaves or hay on top, and lay spruce branches.

Garden daisies (nivery) are quite frost-resistant, but a harsh winter without snow is dangerous for them too. Terry varieties and those with large flowers especially suffer from cold weather. Before frost arrives, cut off the entire above-ground part to a rosette of leaves, mulch the ground around the bush with humus or peat, and when it gets colder, cover it with a layer of foliage 15-20 cm thick.

Phlox paniculata should be deprived of its lush “hair” even before the arrival of stable cold weather, leaving stumps 5-10 cm high. Gently cover the renewal buds located at the base of the shoots with humus or compost and mulch with peat. If a cold winter with little snow is expected, then when the soil freezes, pour about a bucket of loose garden soil on each bush, and lay spruce branches or reeds on top of the “fills”.

Hostas - should they be pruned before winter?

For some reason, it is believed that if the leaves are removed in the fall, the plant will spend all its energy on restoring them, will weaken and may die in the cold. But if it is preparing for hibernation, it will not restore dead foliage. Therefore, as soon as the hosta leaves fall down and dry out, carefully remove them, mulch them with dry peat, and before frost, lay spruce branches or dry leaves on top.

Garden chrysanthemums are undoubtedly beautiful, but it is better to give preference to varieties zoned for your area. For example, for the Moscow region these are Korean varieties and their hybrids. But these plants also need reliable and warm “coats”.

Therefore, before the onset of frost, cut the stems to 10-centimeter stumps, cover the base of the bushes with humus or ready-made compost (10-centimeter layer), and mulch with dry peat on top. If snowless cold strikes, sprinkle a lot of dry leaves on top, and lay spruce branches on them - it will provide ventilation inside the shelter. And if your dacha has a frost-free cellar (+1-5°C), place the roots of the chrysanthemums together with a ball of earth in containers, sprinkle them with a damp substrate and store them here all winter. In a similar way, you can save large-flowered chrysanthemums, which cannot withstand wintering in the garden even with maximum insulation.

Retirement

The perennials are so different: among them there are both vulnerable “southerners” and harsh “polar explorers”... That they all corresponded to their name and color. for many years, you will have to take care of a comfortable winter. And for this you need to learn simple rules

If you live in a region where winter lasts only 2-3 months, you are lucky - it means you are deprived of many of the worries associated with wintering green pets. It is somewhat more difficult for residents of mid-latitudes. True, a fair number of herbaceous perennials, characteristic of regions with a cool climate, are accustomed to growing on their own, withstanding frost, and winter is not scary for them.

But heat-loving plants, even those adapted to cool climates, will have to pay more attention. Guests from hot countries—exotics—find it difficult to get used to wintering in the middle zone.

Therefore, many of them grow up as flyers. Heat-loving perennials will survive the winter if they are properly protected from the cold, and for this you need to find out when purchasing what the winter hardiness of the selected plants is. As you can see, there are many nuances, but there are general rules that will help you prepare your favorite plants for winter. To successfully survive the cold, all perennials need to gain strength. Therefore, while it is still warm, before the leaves, flowers and plants have withered, autumn fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, which increase frost resistance, is needed. It is also necessary, having chosen a dry day, to treat the base of the bush and the soil around it with preparations against pests and diseases: healthy plants withstand winter tests better.

Herbaceous perennials grow in one place for several years. In most of them, the “long-liver” is only the root, and the above-ground part lives for only one season, dries out and dies in the fall, and in the spring new “tops” grow from the root. Advice: remove dried stems and leaves - they prevent plants from overwintering, and in the spring they impede the growth of young shoots. The time and height of pruning are individual for each species. But evergreen perennials do not need to be pruned. True, if such a plant is sick or very weak, it is better to prune it in the fall.

A serious danger for all garden inhabitants is snowless cold. The frost, not even severe, but ordinary (-8-10°C), but long-lasting, grips the bare ground. Even the most hardened crops can freeze if not covered by a warm blanket of snow. What can we say about young plantings? The growth buds of most perennials develop from above, and without protection they will freeze.

Therefore, experts recommend, when it becomes clear that a frosty winter has set in for a long time, to mulch even cold-resistant perennials: the declared frost resistance of a plant does not always correspond to reality. For example, it is believed that ferns are not afraid of frost at all - these forest “savages” are incredibly winter-hardy. But it turns out that they also need mulching - just remember that plants living in the forest are covered with fallen leaves in the fall.

Before the soil freezes, prepare more mulching materials and keep them warm and dry until stable frosts arrive. Humus, rotted compost and dry peat are considered the best mulch, since they can fertilize the soil in the spring. Garden soil, mowed green manure and moss work a little worse, and all these “ingredients” can be mixed in any proportions. For lovers of acidic soil, it is good to take conifer needles. Experienced gardeners do not recommend mulching plants with fresh sawdust or shavings - they must first “mature” (compost).

Sawdust can be added to humus or compost, but not much. Advice: do not use very small sawdust for mulch - they cake into clumps and a crust forms on the surface of the soil. It is not recommended to mulch and insulate flower beds with straw - it will attract all the hungry mice in the area, they will eat the shelter, and then the plants themselves.

In addition to mulch, herbaceous perennials may need more substantial cover. Fallen leaves provide good insulation, but only from those trees that do not suffer from similar diseases and are not spoiled by the same pests as garden crops.

But just in case, still spray the collected foliage with urea. And if you have stocked up on leaves, prepare brushwood, reeds, spruce branches, etc., which will prevent the wind from blowing away the leafy shelter. But it’s not worth laying mulch and insulation on top of the foliage or directly on the plants - waterproof film, roofing felt, roofing felt: these materials do not allow the passage of not only moisture, but also air. They are good for constructing air-dry shelters. To do this, they must be laid on a frame made of boards or reinforcement raised above the plants.

: Peonies - layering Last fall...

In the fall, there are often blessed days when you want to put aside the most urgent matters and spend some time in the garden. Flowers at this time look unusually touching. Trees and shrubs changing their colors add color to the garden.

Autumn chores in the garden.

All this beauty will soon face severe winter trials, and it is in our power to help the plants survive the upcoming cold more easily. This article will discuss how to care for flowers and other decorative plants in the fall.

Caring for perennial flowers

Winter-hardy perennials ( daylilies, perennial asters, yarrows, oriental poppy, autumn helenium etc.) you need very little help: prune after frost, leaving short stumps, loosen the soil around the bushes. If we didn’t have time to feed in September, we will apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers under the bushes: 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per sq. m.

There is no need to insulate winter-hardy plants, and yet, if possible, we mulch them with compost or good humus, and later cover them with fallen leaves in case of snowless frosts. If there is not enough compost, we will first sprinkle on plants that have not been divided or replanted for a long time: they overwinter worse than young, well-established plants.

Autumn perennials.

Late-planted plants will also require a little shelter: by winter they may not take root well enough. Even peonies, which are characterized by increased winter hardiness, if they are planted in the fall, are best mulched with humus or compost.

With heucheras it’s the other way around: they overwinter well at a young age, but over time their growth buds, rising above the soil level, can suffer in snowless winters. Therefore, to “age” plants Heuchera, and , Phlox paniculata It is recommended to add soil in the fall. With the onset of stable cold weather, add soil to the rhizomes irises, to rake it out early in the spring.

What to do with lilies

Does not require shelter Asian lily hybrids. When preparing them for winter, we cut off the stems and make sure that during periods of winter thaws their area will not be flooded with melt water. If there is such a danger, we make diversion grooves.

For those less winter-hardy oriental and trumpet lilies We will stock up on insulation materials: leaves, grass, compost. We will cover these lilies after the first frost.

How to care for roses in autumn

We also need to take care of the roses and prepare a winter shelter for them.

Perennials do not require warm shelter.

After a steady cold snap, we cover insufficiently frost-resistant perennials. We cover them with earth or mulch, cover them with non-woven material folded in two layers, securing it to wire arches.

You can also use improvised materials. For example, having cut off the perennials, we cover them with soil or compost, cover them with plastic boxes, on top of which we throw non-woven material. Sprinkle the ends of lutrasil or other material with earth to prevent it from blowing away.

What flowers are planted in autumn?

You can plant roses in the fall.

We plant bush roses half a meter apart from each other.

In October we plant bulbous plants: first - , hyacinths, and towards the end of the month - tulips. Bulbs purchased in a store, as a rule, do not need pre-planting treatment (they are already treated), but bulbs dug up in your own plot or donated by friends are better treated against diseases with a fungicide Maxim the summer resident: Soak for half an hour in a solution (2 ml per liter of water), then dry and plant.

We plant the bulbs that we plan to dig up next season more often - every 10-15 cm, so that the flowering is spectacular. If we are not going to dig it up, we will plant it less frequently, leaving room for the nest of bulbs to grow.

There is no great need to “insulate” tulips, although a layer of compost or humus will not hurt them: in the spring the flowers will be larger and the flower stalks will be longer.

You need to take care of hyacinths and daffodils by sprinkling the planting site with compost, humus, and throwing leaves. After snowless winters, “lunges” occur in the plantings of these bulbous plants. The bulbs will not necessarily die, but will not bloom if frost damages the flower buds.

We dig up tubers of gladioli and dahlias

October is the time to dig up your corms. gladioli. But if thrips have worked on the plants (colorless “striations” and “spots” on the leaves and petals), it is advisable to treat them with an insecticide a week before digging ( alatar- 5 ml, Aktar- 8 g per 10 l).

If the time for treating gladioli is missed, it is pointless to treat in cold weather (thrips goes to “winter” under the covering scales of the corms), you will have to treat after digging. Having dug up the corms of the gladioli, we cut off the stems, leaving 5-6 cm of stumps. Dry them for a month in a warm place.

After the first frost we dig up dahlias.

Some shrubs require shelter for the winter.

In the meantime, spray the bushes with a 1% Bordeaux mixture or abiga-pik solution (40-50 g per 10 liters of water) against various types of leaf spots.

It is advisable to treat deciduous shrubs for fungal diseases, especially if the diseases make themselves known through spots on the leaves and drying shoots. We cut out diseased shoots to living tissue. Cover the resulting wounds with oil paint based on drying oil. Spray trees and shrubs on whose branches mosses and lichens have settled with a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

It is advisable to strengthen the pyramidal crowns of coniferous plants by loosely tying them with twine so that the branches do not break off under the weight of snow in winter. The same white non-woven material, loosely thrown over the crown, will save conifers from burns

The lawn also needs autumn care. If a haircut is required, we will cut it, but not as short as in the summer: in winter we leave the grass stand 15-20 cm high. We constantly remove fallen leaves from the grass, under which the grass may disappear during the winter. You should not feed the lawn in October to stimulate growth, but you can sprinkle the turf with a thin layer of compost and then comb it with a rake.

In order for perennial flowers to decorate the garden with their blooms next spring and summer, in the fall they need to create favorable conditions for wintering. Many of them cannot survive prolonged cold without additional shelter and die. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly prepare them for winter.

Some perennials are unpretentious and overwinter in open ground without additional shelter, but others simply die without protection, freezing out.

In many plants, sap flow continues right up to winter and without protective shelter, they simply do not survive. To protect them, a number of measures are required to prepare for winter, on which their health and appearance depend.

When to cover flowers in the country, at what temperature

Sheltering perennial flowers in the country, regardless of where they grow and their type, is carried out at a temperature of 4–7 degrees cold. The weather should be dry and windless.

The type of shelter used for perennials, on the contrary, directly depends on the climatic conditions of the region, and the colder it is there, the more reliable the shelter is required.

In the Moscow region and the central zone, perennial flowers are covered until mid-November. If the weather permits, the shelter can be extended until the end of November.

Sheltering of perennial flowers in the Urals is carried out in October - early November. Covering time depends on the ability of the plants to tolerate cold temperatures.

In Siberia, the shelter of perennial flowers begins at the end of September and sometimes lasts until November. Protective measures last until the weather outside settles below - 8 degrees cold.

In the Leningrad region, plants are covered for the winter until the beginning of November. By the time the snow falls, the flowers should be ready for the winter.

What to cover

Even frost-resistant plants in the absence of snow cover can freeze if they are not provided with protective shelter. Snowless winters are especially dangerous for young plantings.

To protect perennial flowers from the cold, various materials are used, for example, spruce branches, sawdust, peat, and covering material.

As a cover, spruce branches are perfect for covering most perennial crops. It allows air to circulate freely inside the shelter, protects against rodents and traps fallen snow. In early spring, spruce branches protect plants from sunburn and allow excess moisture to evaporate.

The disadvantage of such protection is that spruce branches are not able to retain moisture, which sometimes negatively affects the health of flowers.

Sometimes the needles become sick and the affected branches infect the flowers. Before using spruce branches, it must be carefully inspected.

Another disadvantage of spruce branches is soil oxidation, which negatively affects some types of perennials.

In dry and snowy winters, sawdust is an excellent protection against the cold. They are used as mulch, cover structure filler, or mound on top of the enclosure covering the plant. Sawdust allows plants to breathe and maintains snow cover on top.

Before using fresh sawdust, they must be thoroughly dried. It is best to use last year’s sawdust, which is ready for use, for shelter.

Raw sawdust does not protect plants, but on the contrary, harms them. They tend to accumulate moisture, become warm and freeze, and the roots of flowers often die.

The disadvantage of this material is that it is a natural soil acidifier, which also negatively affects some types of perennial flowers.

Peat is a good covering option for the tree trunks of flowers. To cover perennial flowers, it should be taken only in dried form. This protective material not only holds heat well, but also serves as a good fertilizer for many crops. It allows air to pass through well, but at the same time acidifies the soil and does not retain moisture. Once wet, it thickens and protects plants less well from the cold.

In order to protect plants from high humidity, any protective cover (spruce branches, sawdust, peat) is covered with a covering material. It can be either breathable or airtight.

In any case, when using such materials, oxygen access is ensured for plants.

Agrofibre, spunbond, lutrasil and other similar materials, when used in several layers, protect plants from both cold and moisture. At the same time, they do not accumulate condensation. They are used when wrapping bushes or stretched over a frame erected above the plant.

Burlap is used when wrapping stems and bushes completely. This material insulates well, but allows moisture to pass through.

When using a film cover, the plants are provided with an additional air outlet, otherwise the crops will be blocked. When covering, the film should not touch the plant branches!

The best option in regions with severe frosts is to combine materials, for example, spunbond with film (covered on top) or lutrasil with spruce branches.

What flowers are covered for the winter?

There are a number of perennial flowers that need protective cover for the winter. These include crops such as roses, hydrangeas, clematis, chrysanthemums, peonies, rhododendrons and others.

Hydrangeas are covered with a mixture of peat and soil, collected in a bunch and carefully bent to the ground. The shoots are laid on spruce branches, plywood sheets and secured with staples. Agrofibre is laid on top and spruce branches and sawdust are laid out, which in turn is covered with film.

Paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas have enough cover made of spruce branches and agrofibre (without film).

Shelter of large-leaved hydrangea: video

Before the onset of frost, the above-ground part of chrysanthemums is cut off, leaving stumps 10 centimeters high. The base of the bush is covered with a ten-centimeter layer of humus, and a layer of dry peat is poured on top. In snowless winters, dry leaves are additionally poured onto the mulch, and spruce branches are laid on top.

In very severe frosts, chrysanthemums are dug up, together with a lump of earth, placed in a container and placed in a cellar, basement, greenhouse for the winter, and in the spring they are planted in a flower bed.

If it is not possible to dig up the plants, then an additional shelter is formed over them from a wooden box, spruce branches or shields, and spunbond or agrofibre is spread on top.

In autumn (before the arrival of frost), the above-ground part of peonies is cut down to 10-15 centimeters from the ground. Then the roots are mulched with rotted humus or compost. Young bushes are additionally covered with dry leaves or spruce branches.

The roots of rhododendrons are mulched with rotted humus or peat. A frame is created above the plant, which is covered with lutrasil and film.

How to cover evergreen rhododendrons for the winter: video

There are quite a large number of perennials that overwinter in open ground without additional shelter.

The most winter-hardy perennials, for example, such as: astrantia, aquilegia, delphinium, anthemis, rudbeckia, iris, astilbe, monarda and others feel great even in regions with very cold winters.

Astrantia tolerates wintering well in the ground without shelter. The flowers of this culture are distinguished by their bright colors and amazing structure. The plant does not require additional protection.

Winter-hardy catchment (aquilegia) easily survives even very cold winters. In autumn, its wilted shoots are cut to a height of 5-7 centimeters from the ground, and mulched with peat, rotted humus or dry leaves.

Antemis, reaching a height of 30 centimeters, winters well in open ground conditions.

Rudbeckia Frost-resistant and unpretentious. This beautiful flowering perennial has bright yellow or purple flowers. Rudbeckia stems are great for decorating hedges. Plant height reaches 1.80-2.1 meters.

Siberian irises they do not need shelter for the winter, unlike varietal bearded irises, which need additional protection from the cold.

Delphinium easily withstands air temperatures down to -50 degrees cold, but only under a thick layer of snow. In winters with little snow, it is better to cover the plant. After the end of flowering, the flower stalks of the plants are cut to 15 centimeters. With the arrival of frost, the roots are mulched with peat and covered with spruce branches.

Young astilbe able to winter without additional protection. In October - November, the shoots of the plant are cut off at the root and mulched with a five-centimeter layer of peat and rotted humus. A plant older than 5 years, in addition to a layer of mulch, additionally requires shelter in the form of dry leaves and a non-woven film on top.

Monarda It is considered a fairly frost-resistant crop. For a comfortable wintering, it is enough for the plant to cut off dry shoots in the fall, mulch the roots with peat, and in frosts below -20 degrees, cover it with spruce branches or a 20-centimeter layer of dry leaves.

Every gardener should know which perennials require shelter for the winter and how to choose the right covering material for them. Knowing the characteristics of various perennial flowers, you can create beautiful flower beds and preserve their beauty for many years. Regardless of whether plants require additional shelter for the winter or not, they all need autumn care, since without it it will be more difficult for them to survive the cold.

Covering perennials for the winter: video

November marks the most favorable time to finally cover non-frost-resistant ornamental plants in the garden for the winter. We can’t let everything take its course, because in recent years, winters have been giving us surprise after surprise. Then frosts will strike worse than Siberian ones. Then we celebrate the New Year with blooming daisies in the flower beds, just like last season. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and work a little for the benefit of your garden pets.

Be sure to cover the clematis that bloom on last year's shoots. To do this, they are removed from the supports, rolled into a ring and laid on the ground, having previously spread spruce branches or other material. The root zone is hilled to a height of 20 cm with dry peat, humus or soil. The shoots are covered from above with the same spruce branches, lutrasil, and roofing felt. You need to do the same with young girl grapes until they grow up and get stronger.

All roses except park roses, also need shelter. Most often, roses die not from freezing, but from damping off, which occurs due to covering too early in the fall, lack of ventilation and late opening in the spring. The first autumn frosts do not harm roses; they even help the plants transition to the winter cycle, helping to stop growth and accumulate nutrients in the shoots.

Small roses can simply be tied together with twine, tied with spruce branches and a shelter can be built over them. Climbing roses are covered, like clematis: they are removed, laid on the ground and covered, after removing the remaining leaves. Miniature roses are cut short, leaving stumps no more than 5-7 cm high, covered with dry peat and covered with spruce trees or small pots with a hole at the top.

Before covering, hybrid tea roses are cut to a height of about 30 cm, the cuts are smeared with brilliant green or garden varnish, and any remaining foliage is carefully removed from them. The construction of shelters over them begins with the establishment of stable low temperatures (from 0 to -5 degrees). The bush is covered with dry soil, peat or foliage to a height of about 20 cm and well covered with spruce branches. It is the best material for covering plants because, thanks to its thorns, it repels rodents, retains snow well and retains heat, while at the same time not interfering with ventilation. Then something like a roof is built on top to prevent excess moisture from entering. You can use wooden panels, boxes, plywood - it all depends on the available capabilities and size of the plants.

Chrysanthemums also need the same shelter, preventing moisture from entering and maintaining good ventilation. They are cut off almost at the soil level, covered with mulch, you can take peat with sawdust and pour this mixture onto a bush 10 cm high, sprinkle leaves on top of the mixture. If you do not build a roof over them, then there is a high probability that they will get wet.

For the purpose of insulation mulch peonies, garden daisies, phlox, add soil or humus to primroses, lilies, astilbes and other perennials. Cover heat-loving ornamental shrubs (weigela, forsythia, rhododendrons and others). The shoots are bent slightly to the ground and covered, and then snow is constantly added to them throughout the winter. In the absence of mulch, spruce spruce branches can successfully replace it.

Coniferous crops, especially young ones, need to be wrapped in thick paper, wrapped in burlap or lutrasil and tied with twine. They are not afraid of frost, but the scorching rays of the sun at the end of winter and beginning of spring leave red burn spots on the needles. Low creeping conifers just need to be bent to the ground, you can cover them a little with material, the rest will be done by snow.

They’ll overwinter better in a shelter and that’s it new young plantings. It is necessary to mulch their root zone with peat and, if these are standard plants, wrap the stems with lutrasil to protect them from damage due to temperature changes at the end of winter.

Probably the easiest thing to cover plants on an alpine hill. It is enough to simply throw a double layer of covering material on top, pressing it along the edges with stones. Thanks to this shelter, in the spring you will not have to additionally clean the hill from debris and leaves. And the soil will be much less compacted and will remain loose.

And special shelter houses and huts made of non-woven materials for various plants began to appear on sale. If possible, you can take advantage of this innovation.

Winter shelter for bulbous plants

Most small-bulbous plants that bloom in spring - muscari, scillas, hazel grouse (checkerboard and white-flowered), snowdrops, pushkinias, crocuses and other winter-hardy bulbous plants do not need to be covered. Planted at the required depth before September 20, the bulbs of these plants have time to take root well and do not freeze out in winter. However, later plantings of bulbs need to be mulched on top.

Winter-hardy Dutch bulbs (lilies, tulips, daffodils, etc.) planted in the fall should be covered with spruce branches. This is also an effective protection against mice, which love to eat the bulbs of lilies and tulips. And cover the spruce branches on top with film and cut shoots of perennials, i.e. make a “dry shelter”. Do not under any circumstances cover bulbous plantings with straw - otherwise you will create excellent conditions for the reproduction of mice.

An indispensable condition for successful wintering of all bulbous plants is that the planting site is not flooded by spring waters.

You can mulch the rhizomes of perennial plants with a loose mixture (for example, a mixture of garden soil, peat, compost and humus in any combination) or just garden soil.

Young herbaceous peonies If planted correctly, you don’t need to cover it. But old bushes, whose buds have grown upward, should be covered annually in the fall with a pile of earth with humus. And in early spring, you need to unplant the covered peonies very carefully so as not to damage the growth buds. It is in order not to damage the buds that I unplant the peonies when the leaves begin to grow.

Primroses in the garden in the fall should be covered with spruce branches on top to protect them from mice, which love to gnaw out the tasty, juicy “heart” of the plant’s rosette. First add fresh soil to the base of the bush.

Daylilies overwinter without shelter.
But if you planted some especially decorative valuable variety (for example, “Clouse in Glory”, “Cherry Valentine”, “Storm of Center”, etc.), then preventive shelter for the winter will not be superfluous. Indeed, among imported daylilies there may be less frost-resistant semi-evergreen or evergreen varieties. Since their winter hardiness in our region has not been precisely determined, provide imported daylilies with a dry shelter for the winter to be on the safe side.

Unpretentious Siberian irises do not require winter shelter; they are quite frost-resistant plants. But varietal bearded irises dry shelter must be provided.

The time has come for winter shelter of heat-loving perennials should be judged by the weather in your region.

This should not be done early, since in October, after the first strong cold snap, very warm weather may set in. Then prematurely covered perennial plants can dry out.

Add mulch and garden soil to the perennials while it is still loose (it would be a good idea to prepare the mulch and covering soil in advance and keep it in a dry place).
And you can cover your wintering heat-loving perennials with burlap, film and cut shoots of plants after the onset of stable frosts.

Sheltering is carried out when the air temperature drops below -5 C. This usually happens in mid-November. You should not do this earlier, since the plants need to get a little hardening and get used to low temperatures. They are not afraid of night frosts, nor are slight frosts (-5 C) dangerous. The main covering material is spruce (or pine) spruce branches, nothing better has yet been invented. It helps accumulate snow, which protects the plant from severe frost.

An experiment was carried out in the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University named after M.V. Lomonosov: they measured the air temperature under the shelter and outside it. Under shelter, the temperature did not drop below -5 C, even if it was -30 degrees below zero. Under such shelter, plants do not overheat when thaws occur and temperatures above zero in the middle of winter. When it was -5 C outside, under the shelter -3 C, but if the air temperature dropped to -32 C, under the shelter it was not lower than -5 C. However, if there is no snow, the temperature under the shelter is almost no different from the temperature outside it.

The shelter should under no circumstances damage or break plant branches. Therefore, it is recommended to first carefully tie spreading bushes with twine, then wrap them in burlap and only then cover them with spruce branches.

The branches and buds are adapted to withstand severe frosts, which cannot be said about the roots. They suffer greatly during snowless winters, so we must try to accumulate snow on the tree trunks. The same spruce spruce branches can help a lot with this.

Speaking of conical and pyramidal forms of junipers and columnar thujas. In winter, due to the adhering snow, they often lose their shape, fall apart, bend, or even branches break off.
Starting from the bottom, not very tightly, pull the crown together with any rope. If the tree is more than 1.5-2.0 m, it is advisable to tie them to supports - pegs, deciduous trees, etc., that is, fix them so that they do not bend under the weight of the snow. In general, snow from the crowns needs to be shaken off.

In this article we will look at how to cover flowers for the winter in the country. Let's look at the methods of shelter. Let's find out when to cover flowers. Let's talk about which flowers do not need to be covered for the winter.

In order for perennial flowers to survive the winter safely, it is necessary to create special shelters for them in the fall. Many plants cannot withstand low temperatures and therefore require the help of gardeners. To properly protect your favorite flowers from the cold, you need to know the features of protective shelters and what they are. As a rule, shelters are:

• wet;
• dry;
• air;
• air-dry.

Wet shelters

This method is the most suitable if there are a lot of flowers in the garden. The bushes are covered with soil to a depth of 30-40 cm to protect their center. If it turns out to be safe and sound, then in the spring the flowers will be restored. Before this, in September-October, the plants are pruned - this increases their winter hardiness. Instead of soil, you cannot use sawdust or peat, which absorb large amounts of water and become freezing. This is how clematis, roses, and grapes are covered - those varieties that are resistant to frost.

Air shelters

Sudden temperature changes can also harm flowers. Air shelters save you from such a misfortune. To create them, lutrasil or film is used. A slatted tripod is installed around the plant, and a cover made of one of these materials is put on top of it. Such shelters have flaws. In sunny weather, flowers may dry out or overheat. Such a problem can occur in a snowless winter or in the spring. Then the flowers “wake up” ahead of time and soon die from low temperatures. To prevent this from happening, a “stool” shelter is built for them with transparent walls through which light will penetrate and a dark roof that protects them from overheating. This option is suitable for conifers and rhododendrons. To create it, pegs are stuck into the ground around the bush, and a plywood shield is placed on top. The entire structure is covered with film, and its edges are buried in the ground. Plants should not come into contact with the shelter.

Air-dry shelters

In this case, in addition to air, a layer of sawdust, dry leaves, and hay serves as insulation. First of all, supports in the form of blocks are installed around the flowers. A boardwalk is made on top, which is covered with earth mixed with dry material, and a plastic film is placed on it. Sunlight does not penetrate into such a shelter, but the temperature inside is constant both on frosty days and during thaws - 0-3 degrees below zero. Such shelters are the warmest, and they are suitable for those plants that can hardly tolerate frost - roses, deciduous rhododendrons, yucca, gingo. For small film shelters, you can leave vents at the bottom to allow air to flow into them. For this purpose, a thin tube with one end extending outward is placed under the film. If the covering layer is too thick, then most likely the plants will scatter. It should have a thickness of 10-15 cm with a gap for air.

How else to cover perennial flowers for the winter

In cases where the above-ground parts of perennial flowers do not die off, or you are not sure of their frost resistance, it is better to cover them. Taking into account the type and size, the following is used for protection:

• pine or spruce branches;
• layer of mulch or soil;
• non-woven material;
• boxes filled with loose mulching material that is not saturated with moisture;
• other auxiliary materials that can protect plantings from the cold.

These structures are covered on top with waterproof material so that when a thaw appears, the plants in them do not rot. In this way, chrysanthemums, non-winter-hardy roses, and climbing flowers, previously removed from the trellis and bent to the soil sprinkled with mulch, are covered.

Perennial plants on alpine hills are covered in groups, preferably with non-woven material. To prevent it from moving, its edges must be covered with earth. For mulching, it is better not to use straw or fallen leaves, which rot and, moreover, attract rodents, pests, and spread fungus and bacterial diseases. For mulch, pine needles, sawdust, soil mixed with humus, and dry shavings are suitable. Primroses remain in the soil, but are generously mulched and sprinkled with snow, the thickness of which should be 50-80 cm. The snow should not cake and turn into a dense crust - this can cause the flowers to wither in the spring.

How to prepare perennial flowers for winter

Perennial flowers owe their name to the fact that their root system (and sometimes the above-ground parts), after completing the growing season, does not die. Development processes only freeze in winter. In spring, the flowers awaken and quickly begin to grow. Ornamental perennial plants require minimal care while it's warm, but in the fall they need protection from the cold. The type of shelter depends on the climate of a particular region and the degree of winter hardiness of plants.

Perennial flowers will be safe if:

• trim the crown in time;
• mulch the soil under the plants;
• insulate the remaining above-ground parts of the flowers.

These operations are usually carried out in combination, and those types of flowers that are not frost-resistant and most bulbous ones, except those that bloom in early spring, are dug up and stored in a warm or cool, dry room until the end of the winter period.

You can limit yourself only to pruning and mulching the soil in the flowerbed for those plants that are frost-resistant. Their growing points and nutrients are located underground, so when snow falls, they will not disappear.

How to prune perennials before winter

The above-ground parts of flowers, while it is warm, accumulate nutrients for the future, so they are pruned in the fall, with the first frost.

Why do you need to trim dead parts of plants:

• so that the larvae of insect pests do not persist in dry stems;
• to reduce the risk of spreading fungal and other diseases;
• to facilitate covering and mulching of plantings for the winter.

Low flowers should be cut off at soil level, but for tall and powerful plants, the lower part of the stems remains. In winter, they retain snow, acting as natural protection, and in spring, they can easily determine the location of flowers.

The most cold-resistant flowers - astilbe, aquilegia, cornflower, rudbeckia, etc. must be trimmed, leaving only 5 cm of the entire height of the stems above the ground cover.

Delphiniums and other tall flowers with hollow, powerful stems are pruned leaving 25 cm so that water that gets into the stem does not cause rotting of the upper part of the roots and death. In irises, two weeks before frost, the leaves must be cut to a height of 10 cm. Curly annual shoots of clematis and similar flowers are shortened to avoid freezing and rotting in the winter shelter of their green parts.

Covering perennial flowers

Perennials - daisies, daisies, arabis, alpine asters, pansies, carnations and others find themselves under the snow along with their lush green stems and leaves. High humidity and temperature changes cause rotting of greenery under the snow and death of flowers. To avoid this, they need to be covered for the winter. A thin layer (5-7 cm) of fallen leaves is used as cover. Before this, it is advisable to cover the flowers with deciduous branches or spruce branches, which will prevent them from becoming damp and provide them with ventilation.

How to cover bulbous flowers

The table shows the names of colors with the type of covering:

How to cover flowers for the winter at the dacha: questions and answers

Question No. 1. How to cover the conical and pyramidal shapes of columnar thujas and junipers?

Answer: In winter, they often bend due to the sticking snow, their shape disappears, and branches break. Therefore, it is necessary, starting from the bottom, not tightly, to tighten the crown with twine. In cases where trees are taller than 1.5-2 meters, tie them to some supports, that is, fix them so that they do not bend under the weight of snowdrifts. However, try to shake off the snow from the crowns in a timely manner.

Question No. 2. When is the time for winter shelter?

Answer: The weather in your area should notify you of this. For example, this should not be done in October, because the first severe cold snaps may be followed by very warm, clear days. Due to the fact that at this time you have already covered your flowers, they will definitely dry out.

Flowers are covered at air temperatures no higher than -5 degrees - approximately mid-November. This should not be done before, because the plants need a little hardening and getting used to frost. They are not afraid of night frosts and small frosts (up to -5 degrees). The main covering material is spruce branches (pine or spruce), which contributes to the accumulation of snow, protecting the flowers from severe frosts.