Economy bathhouse in the country. What is the best way to build a bathhouse: general information, features and recommendations, which bathhouse is best to build Do-it-yourself budget bathhouse

A bathhouse is a mandatory attribute of most summer cottages and garden plots. However, its construction is often associated with considerable costs. However, when a small building is erected, which is used only in the warm season, financial losses can be minimized.

Review of alternative building materials - choose from three

The main expenses that await us when building a bathhouse are the purchase of construction and consumables. Therefore, when drawing up an estimate for construction, let’s think about how these costs can be reduced. The traditional building material for baths is wood in the form of timber or rounded logs. Slightly less common are buildings made of brick or sibit, which have proven themselves well. But, unfortunately, the price of such consumables is quite high.

Let's consider alternative materials that are not so well known, but are quite suitable for the quick construction of an inexpensive bathhouse:

• Cinder block. It is easy to work with and its cost is low.
• Arbolite (wood concrete). Widely used in construction in the middle of the last century. It is distinguished by its light weight, ease of processing, and plasticity.
• differs in the speed of construction. The price depends on the heat insulator used.

Of these options, the last two are the most acceptable. The fact is that a classic cinder block can hardly be called an environmentally friendly material. Of course, modern manufacturers reduce its danger to a minimum, but this only applies to large companies. But health is not something you want to risk. A lot has already been said about frame baths. Therefore, further we will talk about how to build an arbolite bathhouse.

A strong foundation is the key to the durability of the building

Among owners of dachas and country houses, strip, monolithic, screw foundations and options on support posts are popular. Each of these options has strengths and weaknesses. For example, it is quite possible to make a strip base with your own hands without extra costs, but it is almost impossible to equip it in areas with difficult terrain. In addition, concrete (the main component) gains strength for at least 14 days, and ideally a month. There is no need to talk about efficiency.

A monolithic foundation can withstand significant loads, but at the same time it is subject to the same disadvantages as a strip foundation - it is difficult to equip it in swampy and uneven areas. Not to mention the price. The cost of such a base is not affordable. But you also need to take into account logistics costs. Foundations on support columns are considered one of the most affordable. Yes, the installation of such a foundation will require a minimum of labor and money costs. However, like the previous options, it is not advisable to use it in areas with watery soil.

Screw piles are considered equal in cost to strip foundations. You can agree with this opinion if you forget about the associated expenses. To install metal piles, you do not need to order and pay for the delivery of concrete, or spend money on a reinforcing belt, sand and gravel for the cushion. But perhaps the main advantage is that you can install a screw foundation in one day without outside help.

Such piles are blamed for their inability to withstand significant loads. But our task is to build a bathhouse as quickly as possible and at minimal cost. For us, screw piles are the best option.

Installing a screw foundation - step-by-step description

Let's start with a description of the pile itself. This is a steel pipe equipped with a tip and blades at the bottom. The dimensions of the pile depend on the required depth of screwing into the ground, but cannot be less than 2.5 meters. The body of the pile is coated with an anti-corrosion solution. After screwing into the ground, the pile is crowned with a square head (50x50 cm). It is fixed using a welding machine, after which the seam is protected from corrosion. It is on this head that the support beam (channel) will lie, from which the construction of the bathhouse will begin.

Work on installing a screw foundation begins with markings. The proverb “measure twice, cut once” is more relevant than ever. The number of piles depends on the dimensions of the future building, but the distance between them cannot be more than 3 m, and preferably 2–2.5 m. After marking and clearing the construction site of debris and foreign objects, we invite helpers and begin screwing in the pile:

• In the marked place we make a pit no more than 30 cm deep and install a pile in it.
• We align the pile vertically, pass a crowbar through the mounting eyes and begin to screw in the pile.

Of course, the length of the crowbar will not allow you to create an effective lever. Therefore, we extend it with pre-prepared pipes, preferably with a square section - they have higher rigidity. The average penetration speed is 20 cm per one revolution of the pile. Stop screwing when the metal lever becomes deformed. But it is important that the pile goes below the freezing point. The minimum distance from the soil surface to the pile tip is 1.5 m.

After deepening the piles, we check their above-ground edges - they should be at the same level. If necessary, we make adjustments using a grinder. We complete the work by pouring cement mortar into the pile cavity. This will give it additional rigidity and prevent corrosion. The final stage when working with piles is installation of the strapping. For a bathhouse made of wood concrete, we make it from a metal channel, welding it to the ends. For a frame bath, a beam secured with bolts is sufficient. A mandatory requirement in both cases is the use of a building level; the horizon must be level, because the quality of the walls and roof depends on it.

Arbolite blocks - features of material and construction

Theoretically, you can make wood concrete blocks yourself. To do this, you will need a vibrating table, block molds, cement and leftover lumber (sawdust, shavings). However, given that the cost of such material is low, it can be purchased at a hardware store. This material combines such important characteristics for a bath as good vapor permeability and low thermal conductivity. In addition, we do not forget about the safety of this material for human health.

Today you almost never find bathhouses with a combined steam room and sink. As a rule, the layout includes a separate steam room, sink and room. Drawings drawn up before construction will allow you to select the optimal dimensions and quantity of consumables. There are two technologies for constructing walls from wood concrete - monolithic and from blocks. The first involves preparing or purchasing wood concrete mortar. Let’s say right away that the pleasure is not cheap, and if you make it yourself it will also take a long time. Therefore, let’s turn to the second option – block construction.

By and large, this method is no different from working with brick, sibit or cinder block. The laying begins with the installation of corner blocks, after which a thread is stretched between them - a guideline for the masonry. Adhering to the line specified by the cord, lay out the first row. Next, we check its horizon with a building level. If necessary, we correct the flaws and proceed to laying out the second row.

Please note that, unlike the same sibit, laying arbolite blocks does not require special glue - it is quite possible to get by with the usual mortar of sand and cement. However, there are similar points. For example, when laying out door and window openings, you need to lay a corner or channel on top. So, we have raised the body of the future bathhouse, all that remains is to erect the roof, install the stove and decorate the interior.

Gable roof - roof and ceiling in a single complex

Among the variety of roofs of various types (Gothic, hip, oriental), we will focus on the gable roof. The explanation is simple - this design is simple, reliable and relatively low in price. From building materials for the construction of such a roof we will need:

• Beam 100×100 mm - from this we will make a mauerlat, vertical posts and stops for them.
• Boards 50 mm thick and 100 mm wide are blanks for the rafter system.
• Unedged boards and slats for sheathing.

In addition to lumber, we will prepare a vapor barrier film, mineral wool, and roofing material. For the latter, we use a metal profile - it is easy to work with and is relatively inexpensive. We start by treating the wood with an antiseptic and fire-fighting solution; in a bathhouse this is a mandatory requirement. Then we lay a waterproofing layer along the upper perimeter of the walls. And only after this we begin the installation of the rafter system.

It begins with laying timber - Mauerlat - around the perimeter of the walls. Naturally, all angles are checked with a construction angle, and the horizon is checked with a level. After the Mauerlat is leveled, we tighten it to the walls with anchor bolts. The next step is the installation of tension beams. They are attached to the long sides of the Mauerlat “in the paw”. That is, we need to cut out the corresponding grooves in the beams and timber (base). After laying, we additionally fix the wooden parts with nails or staples. It is advisable to maintain the distance between the beams at 1.5 meters.

Having finished preparing the base, we place vertical posts along the ends of the building. We immediately attach temporary slopes to them (they will give rigidity to the structure) and rafter legs. We connect the racks with a beam - a purlin, on which the rest of the rafter legs rest. By the way, release them 20 cm from the wall - this will reduce the impact of precipitation on the wood concrete. After installing the rafters, we fill them with an unedged board as a sheathing, and lay a vapor barrier film on it. It is attached using a construction stapler.

The final stage in roof construction is laying the roofing material. The metal profile is pressed to the sheathing with roofing screws. Having closed the constructed circuit, we have already completed 70% of the construction. All we have to do is hem the ceiling and finish the walls inside the bathhouse.

Interior decoration – PVC panels or lining?

Among the budget finishing materials, we highlight PVC panels. They have proven themselves well in finishing rest rooms and washing areas. This is a completely worthy alternative to ceramic tiles. You can choose such material to suit every taste and budget. But only for the washroom. In the steam room, it is better to use traditional linden lining - it will not melt when exposed to high temperatures.

It is noteworthy that wall coverings with clapboards and panels are performed almost identically. In both cases, we need to install wooden sheathing. A metal frame that causes corrosion is unacceptable in this case. We install wooden (in the steam room) and plastic (in the sink) panels on a padded and leveled wooden base.

Keep in mind that the distance from the stove to wooden surfaces should be at least 0.5 meters, but it can be reduced to 25 cm by protecting flammable surfaces with non-combustible material.

The final stage before installing the stove is installing the ceiling. To do this, you can use clapboard or planed boards. We nail them to the tension beams and go up to the attic, we need to insulate the ceiling. Boards hemmed underneath and tie beams formed the floor of the attic. We cover it with a vapor barrier film and fill it with mineral wool. In order to save money, we will not use ready-made mats, but crumble mats; it can be purchased as residual raw materials at enterprises producing sandwich panels and similar products.

The only caveat when arranging the ceiling is to install a 40x40 cm metal box at the chimney exit. It will be required in any case, regardless of which stove you prefer - metal or brick.

As you know, life is very similar to a vest, with its alternating light and black stripes. What to do if there is a financial crisis on the horizon, and not to your liking, and this very soul desperately demands exclusively its own, domestic steam. There is only one way out - just build. Fortunately, a simple bathhouse, built in maximum economy mode, will allow you to get the necessary minimum of bathhouse pleasures, perhaps without frills. And excesses are a profitable business, because even the widest financial black streak has one good property - it ends.

Construction of a bathhouse on a limited budget does not mean neglecting basic construction rules, norms and principles, and common sense should be at the forefront. Therefore, we will try to formulate the key postulates of economical, but at the same time reasonable and high-quality construction, as it is now fashionable to call a “budget bath”:

• As regrettable as it may be, in all likelihood we will have to abandon the construction of a log bathhouse made of cylindrical timber. High-quality material is expensive, and building a very miniature bathhouse is fundamentally wrong. This statement does not apply to persons living in abundant forest areas, where the tract of timber begins beyond the boundaries of their own garden. In this case, the desire is supported by the presence of a good chainsaw, 3-4 faithful comrades and a couple of bottles of inexpensive vodka to appease the devil or, at worst, a forester. For residents of treeless areas, the option of building from brick, cinder block, or bentonite should be considered. Used stone is also suitable for rough masonry. The inside is still sheathed with wood, but the outside can always be refined with unedged low-quality boards sewn “overlapping” and treated with stain to match the color of bog oak;
• Choose a stove without a remote firebox. On the one hand, this option is cheaper, on the other hand, such a stove has higher fuel efficiency. In most cases, simple baths are equipped with a metal welded stove. A stone stove, even in its most simplified version, is an expensive product that requires both materials and skills. A metal stove is much more accessible for self-production. The material, with some skill, can also be found at scrap metal collection points, and the services of a qualified welder are cheaper than the services of a stove mason.

Attention! Under the stove, even a simple and small one, you will have to lay out a stone stove corner and build a base. This remark applies to those who decided to build a structure from wood, on a frame, and when using other technologies that do not involve the construction of walls from mineral, non-combustible materials.

• . The simplest and fastest, prefabricated strip, built from FBS type blocks. Firstly, there is no need to construct full-profile formwork, and secondly, the volume of concrete work is radically reduced. Blocks can be purchased used; in most cases, this does not have a critical effect on the quality of the foundation. Delivery and installation of blocks can be combined by ordering a vehicle with a crane-manipulator installation; in recent years, they have become firmly established in construction life and have ceased to be something exotic;
• Make the roof low, squat, with a ratio to the height of the walls of approximately 1:3. This way you will reduce the roof area, to some extent increase the energy efficiency of the structure and save on the height and length of the chimney;
• The problem of hot water supply can be solved by tying a water tank around the chimney pipe in the first third of the flow of flue gases. In addition, it is quite possible to abandon the shower and toilet. A shower stall is perfectly replaced by a tipping tub filled with water. Cheap and traditional;
• . To ensure a sufficient amount of light, give preference to rational placement on the cardinal points rather than window areas. It is not necessary to use a metal-plastic profile in conjunction with double-glazed windows. It is enough to insulate wooden ones and get the minimum required effect. Fortunately, there are plenty of tools for this, such as films and insulating tapes, etc.

Things you shouldn't skimp on

When calculating the budget and planning the construction, one should not forget that the simplest do-it-yourself bathhouse should not contain the following materials:

1. Fire hazardous.
2. Subject to the harmful effects of high humidity.
3. Toxic and prohibited for use based on sanitary and hygienic requirements.
4. You should not skimp on electrical wiring and lighting elements.
5. The manufacture of stoves and chimneys should also be taken with full responsibility, since in addition to the flame, they can give rise to another enemy, and an invisible one - carbon monoxide.

A word from Experienced! It is strictly not recommended to use polystyrene foam for insulation. Yes, it is affordable, lightweight, relatively durable and easy to install. But at the same time, it is prone to releasing toxic substances into the steam room, especially under conditions of elevated temperature. A good alternative in terms of economy and ecology would be sawdust poured into the cavities of the walls and ceiling. The only condition is good waterproofing with film materials, even inexpensive ones.

We build it ourselves: quickly, inexpensively, reliably

In this section we will talk about how to build a simple bathhouse with your own hands. Let this not be a step-by-step instruction, but a kind of code of basic principles and key points.

Foundation

We talked about the organization of a prefabricated strip foundation above. Now a little more about other options.

To organize a columnar foundation, you will need a mechanized hand drill with a diameter of 152 mm and a working part length of about 1500 mm. The drilled holes are lined with a plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 110-120 mm and reinforced with two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 20-25 mm.

The strip monolithic foundation is organized on a compacted base of sand-crushed stone mixture and must have geometric dimensions: width 350 mm, depth 450-500 mm. The bearing capacity of such a monolith for structures of this type will be sufficient for the bulk of the underlying soil.

Reinforcement is carried out with horizontal reinforcement from the bottom and top from a rod with a diameter of 16-18 mm and vertical from a rod with a diameter of 20 mm, installed at a distance of about 1000 mm from one another. The monolith is poured in one go and matures for 21 days.

Important! When arranging the base, before pouring it, it is necessary to organize technological channels and holes so that in the future you do not have to go through them in the monolith using a hammer drill, jackhammer and obscene language.

The foundation must be laid in the generally accepted way, using roofing material and bitumen mastic.

Walling

As already mentioned above, the bathhouse can be built from mineral non-combustible building materials in the traditional way, from logs, subject to its availability, and using a frame method. Let's look at the latter in a little more detail.

The strength elements of the frame made of wooden beams are pre-treated with an antiseptic and dried. The frame is tied to the foundation and subsequently assembled on high-strength hardware using thrust washers. The space in the frame skeleton is filled with mineral wool using measures for sufficient vapor and moisture insulation. The most affordable material is mineral wool.

On the frame it is easy to model the configuration of the internal premises, for example, to organize a dressing room by tying a partition made from a beam of a smaller section into the load-bearing skeleton.

Roof

It is recruited using generally accepted technology. To save money, the rafters can be lightly burned or treated with a fuse based on waste from the production of vegetable oil. In the roof, during assembly, it is necessary to edge the chimney hole from a metal corner and a sheet of stainless steel, as it is more resistant to both high temperatures and precipitation.

Sealing can be done using a special heat-resistant roofing mastic. The roof covering is made using asbestos-cement 8-wave slate. Over time, to improve the overall appearance of the bathhouse, the slate can be painted with special roofing paint.

Stove and floor

If the walls are built from non-mineral materials, then the installation of a heat-resistant stove corner made of brick becomes mandatory. The floor in the oven space can be covered with porcelain stoneware, laying it on a gypsum fiber board. Take care to create supply ventilation channels; they can be either slotted, where the stove adjoins the wall, or in the form of holes in the wall or floor.

Water recycling system

It is arranged according to the most simplified scheme and, in the absence of a central sewerage system, the discharge is carried out into a cesspool with a drainage substrate made of broken bricks and stone chips.

The walls of the cesspool can be used truck tires with dimensions 315×80×22.5 or 385×80×22.5 as the most common. Such material can be obtained free of charge at the nearest truck tire shop. The volume of the cesspool must be at least 5 cubic meters and its location should not cause difficulties with pumping water with a sewage tank truck.

Since setting up a cesspool is quite a troublesome task, we present a table of the rate of water filtration in various types of soil. It will help you have an idea of ​​the minimum volume you need:

Conclusion

Concluding this topic, I would like to summarize the following. a simple do-it-yourself bathhouse is not something difficult or special to reproduce. But at the same time, during its construction, generally accepted norms and requirements for construction work cannot be ignored. Never skimp on electrical wiring; do not use used cables with damaged insulating material. Don't skimp on electrical accessories. Sockets, switches, and lamps must be of normal quality, which will help avoid operational troubles in abnormally humid environments. When designing a bathhouse, leave reserves for its expansion and radical modernization, because very often the appetite comes with eating, and financial difficulties end sooner or later.

If the size of the summer cottage does not allow the construction of a full-fledged building, then an alternative option is a mini-bath. In terms of functionality, level of comfort and safety, it is absolutely not inferior to traditional steam rooms, but at the same time it requires much less usable space. In addition, even a novice master can build a bathhouse on his own using affordable and safe materials.

Available materials for the construction of a budget bathhouse

Before you build a budget sauna for your dacha, you need to decide on the material for the wall structures. As a rule, natural wood is used to build a private steam room - timber, a simple or rounded log, but increasingly, in order to save money, site owners prefer simpler and cheaper materials. The most popular of them are:

• Brick.
• Wooden beam.
• Edged board.
• Steel frame with wood cladding.
• Plastic corrugated sheet.

Each material has its own strengths and weaknesses, which can be used to advantage when building a compact steam room.

Types of economy baths

An economical bathhouse in the country is an excellent solution for small garden plots, the area of ​​which does not exceed 10 acres. This means that the structure itself must be ergonomic: up to 6 meters in length and 4 meters in width.

Let's consider the main design options that can be advantageously arranged on a small private plot.

Frame

The simplest frame bath is built on a lightweight foundation, has a wear-resistant wooden frame, lined with high-quality materials.

To provide a small frame bath with additional protection from the negative effects of moisture and temperature changes, the structure is insulated and waterproofed.

Dry logs with a cross-section of up to 112 mm are suitable for constructing a bathhouse. To make a compact bathhouse with an area of ​​up to 13 square meters. m, it is necessary to prepare 80 units of lumber. For insulation, you can use mineral wool, tow fiber and tow.

Frame structures do not require additional external finishing. If desired, it can be done, but this will significantly increase the costs of implementing the project.

Monolithic

Another economical design option for construction on a summer cottage. It involves the use of cheap material - wood concrete, which is prepared from sand, cement, chemical additives and filler. Sawdust from coniferous and deciduous trees, hemp and flax bonfires, rice and cotton straw stalks are used as filler.

There are two technologies for constructing a bathhouse: from sawdust blocks, brickwork or monolithic casting. Monolithic technology involves a preliminary removable type, followed by filling the walls with the finished mixture.

Mobile

The modern market offers ready-made ergonomic bathhouse designs with various technical and operational parameters. One of them is a small sauna, which is a tent on a steel base, equipped with a mobile heater and a backpack for transportation.

There are more affordable and lightweight designs that are equipped with a small-sized steam unit.

The undoubted advantage of a mini-bath for use in the country is the ease of assembly and installation in any accessible place. Depending on the design features, dimensions and type of bathhouse, it can accommodate from 2 to 5 people.

Ergonomic

The budget barrel sauna is the most popular and sought-after design option, which has almost all the advantages of a stationary building.

This structure is a large barrel made of wood. It is divided by a special partition into two functional areas: a steam room and a shower room - for health and water treatments, and a dressing room - for installing heating equipment. A mobile barrel-shaped sauna can accommodate from 2 to 4 people in one session.

For the construction of walls, edged boards from deciduous trees up to 6 cm thick are used. A mobile economical sauna does not require a foundation, but to increase the stability of the structure it is recommended to use an additional wooden base made of boards up to 5 cm thick.

If the bathhouse is intended to be used not only in summer, but also with the onset of cold weather, then insulation of the structure is a prerequisite. For thermal insulation, frost-resistant and durable materials are used, inert to rotting and the negative effects of external factors.

Choosing a site for the construction of a country bathhouse

On a small site, it is better to build a bathhouse near existing buildings - a residential building, a summer kitchen, a sanitary unit. This option has many advantages, since it allows not only to effectively connect the usable area of ​​​​various buildings, but also to significantly save on construction and finishing materials.

When building a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the following basic recommendations:

1. The bathhouse should be located at a safe distance from any bodies of water to avoid possible flooding of the premises.
2. The distance of the building from the hydraulic structure should be 15 meters, from neighboring areas - 5 meters.
3. It is better to locate the bathhouse in the backyard or south side of the site.
4. You should not build a building near a road, field or garden.
5. All fire safety rules must be observed.
6. When developing the project, the competent organization of ventilation and wastewater systems, as well as the safe arrangement of steam and heat insulation protection, are taken into account.

Construction of a budget bathhouse at the dacha using frame technology

Building a bathhouse in a country house with minimal investment is possible for any owner of a small plot; according to construction technology, all work is carried out step by step in the following order:

1. Preparing the site for construction.
2. Construction of the foundation.
3. Tying a wooden frame.
4. External wall cladding.
5. Thermal insulation.
6. Arrangement of communications.
7. Installation of heating equipment and furniture.

Site preparation and foundation construction

At the initial stage, it is necessary to prepare the site for construction. The area is cleared of dirt and vegetation and leveled. Next, the foundation for the bathhouse is arranged.

A cheap option for a foundation for a frame bath - it is durable and durable. It is recommended to use asbestos cement pipes as supports.

The required number of recesses are prepared for the pipes around the perimeter and at the junctions of the walls.

The installation step of the supports is selected taking into account the type of soil and the maximum load exerted on the foundation.

Shrinkage of the supports is carried out to a depth of up to 150 cm, while a drainage (15 cm) cushion based on sand and fine crushed stone is first poured into the bottom of the pit.

The pipes are installed in a vertical position, with fittings placed in each. The cavity of the pipes is concreted, the area around each pipe is also filled with mortar.

After the concrete has hardened, a wooden or metal grillage under the frame is installed on each support.

Timber frame strapping

The frame for a budget wooden bath is made of timber 15x15 cm in size, dried and treated with moisture-proofing compounds. The initial crown is laid on the waterproofed base with alignment around the perimeter. Laying method - in the paw.

The walls are erected to the required height with the organization of door and window openings. The crowns are fixed to each other using wooden dowels. The beams are insulated with jute fiber or tow.

On the upper crown, the rafters are fixed to metal brackets, taking into account the configuration of the future roof. For a single-pitched roof, the rafters are fixed with external and internal supports; for a gable roof, the rafters are mounted at the bottom to the load-bearing walls, and at the top they are brought together in the form of a roof ridge.

External wall cladding and thermal insulation

Even a simple and compact bathhouse needs high-quality thermal insulation and external cladding. For the frame structure, you can use available and cheap materials - OSB and CSP (cement-bonded particle boards), moisture-resistant plywood and boards.

The sheathing is mounted on the finished frame using self-tapping screws, and the joints are filled with foam or sealant.

Reliable thermal insulation will provide additional protection for the wooden structure from increased moisture and temperature changes. Mineral and ecological wool, polystyrene foam sheets, reed boards and jute can be used as a heat insulator.

Thermal insulation materials are installed in the free space between the inner and outer cladding, preventing the formation of cracks that could lead to heat loss.

A vapor barrier layer made of glassine or polyethylene film is mounted on the insulation.

Arrangement of communications

At this stage, all main communications are laid - water supply (cold and hot), sewage and ventilation systems, electrical wiring.

The laying of the sewage system - the construction of a drainage well, a septic tank or a tie-in into the central sewer system - must be provided for at the stage of constructing the foundation.

It is better to make a wooden base a leaky structure with a small hole for drainage. The floor is arranged with a minimum slope of 5 degrees.

Next, reinforced electrical wiring is laid. Afterwards, the wall and ceiling structures are insulated using available and moisture-resistant materials, and decorative finishing is done with clapboard or plywood. Finally, doors and windows, heating equipment and electrical appliances are installed.

Installation of heating equipment and furniture

For a frame country bathhouse in the country, it is recommended to choose a compact and economical heater - an electric stove or a wood stove with a metal body. Massive stoves require the construction of an additional foundation, which will entail increased costs for the construction and maintenance of the bathhouse.

Finally, a standard set of furniture is installed - shelves and benches for the steam room, a table, chairs and hangers for the dressing room (dressing room), benches and shelves for the shower room.

The construction of a small private bathhouse on a personal plot is a complex and responsible undertaking. To get a decent result of your work, experts recommend drawing up a detailed plan for the construction process. This will simplify the passage of the main stages of work and avoid serious mistakes.

Step-by-step instructions for building a mini-bath include the following steps:

• Choosing a location on a building site.
• Construction of a foundation for a bathhouse.
• Construction of walls, partitions and interfloor ceilings.
• Installation of the rafter system.
• Thermal insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of walls, ceilings and floors.
• External insulation and cladding.
• Installation of heating equipment and chimney.
• Laying floors, installing door and window structures.
• Communications supply.
• Internal cladding of premises.
• Selection and arrangement of furniture, bath accessories.

Projects of small-sized baths

Construction work begins with the preparation of the design of the future bathhouse. Here it is important to take into account all the main parameters: dimensions and internal layout, location, construction and finishing materials, furniture and equipment.

The most common sizes of budget baths are:

3x3

Square one-story building of 9 square meters. m - the most affordable option for a small-sized bathhouse. It provides for a steam room and a washing room, located on 4 squares with a minimum set of furniture, as well as a dressing room of 4 square meters. m with a folding table and benches. Here you can also organize a locker room and a relaxation area. A small corridor is intended for convenient storage of bath accessories.

4×3

Bathhouse project for 12 sq. m provides for a budget construction designed for a small company of 2-3 people. The overall space of the bathhouse can be divided into several functional zones by thin partitions made of timber: a steam room, a washing room and a dressing room. A small tray with a drain hole is installed in the washing room. For such a bath, it is recommended to choose a compact metal wood-burning heater or an electric stove.

4x4

Bathhouse project for 16 sq. m is quite in demand due to its spaciousness. A standard building is built on one floor and may include the following premises: a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room, a sanitary unit and a rest room. In some cases, such a project provides for an open terrace. The bathhouse may have a second floor, equipped as a guest room, a playroom or a study. To build such a bathhouse, timber, logs, cinder blocks and bricks are used.

4x5

Budget project for a country bathhouse for 20 square meters. m includes a minimum of structural elements. As a rule, the building is built on one floor and is divided into a steam room, a washing room, a relaxation room and a terrace. Heating equipment and furniture are installed in the steam room, an area with a shower and sanitary facilities is installed in the washing room, and household appliances and furniture are installed in the relaxation room. This project may not include a dressing room, which allows you to get a fairly practical summer version of a bathhouse.

6x4

The most popular project for a small-sized bathhouse of 24 square meters. m, which consists of a steam room and a washing room of the same area, a dressing room, a small relaxation room combined with a terrace. Such dimensions of the building allow it to be used for a company of 4-6 people. To save space, multi-tiered folding shelves can be installed in the steam room. If desired, you can reduce the area of ​​the rest room by allocating a small room for a locker room.

Photo examples of ready-made baths in the country

Before starting the construction process, it is necessary to develop a working design and draw up a detailed drawing indicating the technical parameters of the future structure. Original and popular options for budget bathhouses in summer cottages, built with your own hands, in our photo selection.

A functional frame bathhouse on a summer cottage is an accessible and relatively cheap construction option for home use. To reduce construction costs, you can create your own project and use only inexpensive and practical materials. A compact heating stove, made by yourself, will also help to significantly reduce the cost of servicing the finished bath.

Do-it-yourself budget sauna in the country

A bathhouse is an irreplaceable attribute if you have your own dacha. Just like any construction, building a bathhouse requires certain investments. In order to begin construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to purchase building materials, as well as prepare wages for workers. However, in order to reduce costs, you can consider the option of building a sauna on a budget with your own hands.

Of course, less expensive baths may not last as long as more expensive options, but it cannot be said that such a bath will quickly become obsolete. The design itself will last a shorter period of time, but if you weigh the money spent on it, it becomes clear that such a bathhouse is really worth the money. Next, we’ll look at how you can build a bathhouse in your country house with your own hands. , and at the same time save a lot of money. Let's consider the entire construction process, starting with the foundation.

In practice, it can be noted that the most inexpensive option for building a bathhouse is a frame bathhouse, since its base is lightweight. It does not involve high costs. This design does not tolerate moisture and high temperatures, but there is a way out here by installing additional waterproofing of the frame and cladding. Despite this, this option will be cheaper than monolithic options.

Construction of the foundation

DIY mini sauna foundation , usually done on piles, this method makes it possible to save building materials; for this case it is not at all necessary to pour a strip foundation, because for a relatively small structure there is no need for additional strength. Most often, concrete pillars are used to create a foundation on piles. To make a foundation for a bathhouse, you must perform the following steps:

• According to the project, the perimeter of the future building should be marked, and the partitions that will be located inside the building should also be taken into account. The location of the load-bearing piles should then be noted. The piles should be no further than two meters from each other; an auxiliary pillar should be installed under the intersection of the walls, because it is in such places that there is strong pressure on the foundation;
• Absolutely under all the piles you should dig a well, the diameter of which should be at least twenty-five centimeters, and the depth of at least one meter and fifty centimeters. The hole should be filled halfway with coarse sand. This sand should be filled with water and compacted while filling the well;
• After the process of filling the well, you need to immerse an asbestos-cement pipe of a suitable diameter into it, then you need to insert a reinforced frame made of reinforcement into the asbestos-cement pipe, then fill it with a concrete solution. The pipes must be placed in such an order that the upper edges of the piles are placed at the same level;
• After the piles have completely dried, you need to install a grillage on them; it can be either metal or wooden. The grillage will ice all the pillars together, and will act as the basis for the rest of the structure.

Frame

The shape of the bathhouse with your own hands, photo of the economy version, is given by a frame assembled from timber. The timber, in turn, must be well dried and also impregnated with a waterproofing compound. For a window frame, a beam with a thickness of one hundred by one hundred millimeters is perfect. An important point: sometimes cases arise when it is possible to use timber with a smaller cross-section; in order to use this type of timber, you must first carry out a professional calculation of the strength of the frame.

A do-it-yourself budget bathhouse requires the mandatory presence of reinforced frame elements located in the corners of the bathhouse. Intermediate racks should be placed based on the width of the sheathing material, as well as insulation, and they should be located at a distance of no more than one meter. The supporting pillars are combined with each other by a bar or board; with the help of this combination they form a single whole. A similar connection is used on the top of the supporting elements;

When the intermediate and main parts take a vertical position, the structure should be fastened together using jumpers, which also act as sheathing. After all this has been done, you can lay the roof on the frame; for this, a rafter structure is often used.

Exterior finishing

A small bathhouse with your own hands, photo projects, must be sheathed. DSP or OSB sheets are often used as cladding; these cladding options are considered very durable and also moisture-resistant material. This type of cladding will last for a very long time. These sheets for cladding are applied to the frame using self-tapping screws. In order to properly seal the joints between the sheets, you need to use polyurethane foam.

An important point: a mini bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands, photo, can be lined with plywood or other similar materials. In case of this choice, it should be taken into account that this coating must be protected from moisture.

Insulation of walls and roof

In order to make the bathhouse as warm as possible, you need to apply thermal insulation between the inner and outer lining. Mineral wool, synthetic boards and various insulation materials are often used as insulation.

Any insulation that has been used should be firmly and securely fixed in a cavity specially designed for insulation. We must not allow gaps to appear between the sheets, which could become sources of cold in the future.

When the insulation is completely fixed, it will be necessary to install a vapor barrier on the inside. Glassine is usually used for this. One side is equipped with a heat-insulating layer, and the other with metal foil, which also retains heat quite effectively. Glassine is installed with foil inside the room.

Interior decoration for a small bath

A bathhouse at the dacha with your own hands, drawings, must be sheathed from nutria with proven materials. Wooden lining, FBA spruce plywood, etc. are perfect for this. Avoid materials that may release toxins when exposed to heat.

Material like plastic lining is acceptable, however, the material is questionable. Before sheathing the ceiling in the bathhouse, you need to install a vapor barrier. Spilled floors are very suitable for frame baths. They combine quite harmoniously with the raised structure. Regular wood floors deteriorate very quickly in a constantly humid indoor environment.

A frame bathhouse is an excellent choice for the whole family; this bathhouse will provide a good time, and, unlike its expensive analogues, will save a considerable amount of money. For the interior, you can use metal stoves, which have very affordable prices, this will make it possible to save even more money. You can understand the above in more detail using the video for this article.

Video mini sauna with your own hands cheap

Russian people love the bathhouse on a subconscious level. We have always loved, and still love to this day, to meet with a group after a hard day, take a steam bath with brooms and steam, and plunge into cold water. And if you have the opportunity to build a bathhouse in your own home or on a summer cottage, that’s great.

For now this is just a photograph, but you can bring it to life on your site.

However, if funds do not allow, there are several ways to build a bathhouse cheaply. You can make it for one-time use, or you can build one that will serve for many years.

Often the issue of price becomes decisive in the construction of a bathhouse, which is why it is so important to carefully approach the budget side of the issue.

Types of baths

Temporary bath

A temporary bathhouse is one of the options often used in nature, on hikes or at the dacha, where people do not come very often. Such a do-it-yourself sauna will be cheap, and will also allow you to take a great steam bath. In order to build it, you need to purchase a couple of pieces of polyethylene film measuring 3 by 5 meters, a couple of fabric sheets 1.5 by 3 meters, and a rope to connect the parts of the frame. All other components can be easily found in nature near you.

The construction of a bathhouse begins with the base of the stove. To do this, you will need a flat area measuring 2 by 2 meters, ideally next to a pond. Exactly half the size - meter by meter, the foundation of the furnace is laid out of flat stones. Larger oblong stones (40 by 50 cm) are laid on the foundation in increments of 20 cm. Next, large flat stone slabs must be placed on this structure. There should be a gap between them through which the heat would penetrate into the bathhouse. You need to finish by placing a small flat boulder on the hole. It should be convenient to place a container of water on it. Such a stove requires a wooden fence so that the polyethylene awning does not come into contact with it and does not become deformed. The frame is made of branches that are tied together with ropes.

Then the stove is lit and the ash is removed from it. And only after that the frame is surrounded with polyethylene. The door can be made from an awning. The entire structure should approximately have parameters of 1.5 × 3 × 1.7 meters.

Frame for a future wooden bath

Summer sauna

Another good option for a cheap DIY sauna is a summer sauna. It does not have a stove in its design - the air inside and the water are heated during the day in the sun. To do this, one of the walls - the southern one - needs to be made inclined, and plastic film used for construction. This side should not be obscured by anything during full daylight hours. The northern wall is made of wood, and the boards are adjusted to each other as tightly as possible so that the heated air does not escape through the cracks. This wall very quickly warms up the room and the air due to the opposite film wall.

The door is located on the eastern part and is made of wood: film will not work, because there is a locker room right behind the door. The roof can be made in several ways: either cover it with roofing felt, or cover it with an aluminum sheet painted black. Both methods are good for attracting heat.

Some people install a water tank on the roof and install a faucet and shower head inside the bathhouse. Throughout the day, the water is heated on the roof, and in the evening the owner has a warm, pleasant shower at his disposal. After the steam room, it’s nice to rinse off with warm, clean water.

If you are a happy owner of a summer house, a summer bath will be a real godsend for you!

When building the floor, you must take care in advance to tilt it slightly to one side so that the water does not stagnate, but drains to the side. And after washing, you need to open the door wide for ventilation. No one wants to stand on a damp floor or slippery algae. The smell will also be appropriate if you do not ventilate and dry the bathhouse in a timely manner. For convenience, inside you can take care of hooks for clothes and towels and shelves for soap accessories.

Usually, when washing in such a bath, the film wall is covered with a curtain. It is important to remove it after washing so that the water and the bathhouse have time to warm up for the next visitor.

Even if the temperature outside is about +15 degrees, you can wash quite comfortably in such a summer bath. In this case, hot water is preheated at home and taken with you. In summer, cold water naturally heats up quite quickly.

Even in cloudy weather you can try such a bath, but it is better to bring hot water from home. In the summer, after gardening work, it’s so nice to wash off your tired sweat in a summer bath. The construction of a summer bath does not require huge financial expenditures from you, and even a beginner can master the “technology” of construction. Build such a bathhouse at your dacha - it will delight you more than once throughout the summer.

Permanent bath

Whatever you say, a permanent bathhouse is held in greater esteem than its other varieties, so let’s start building it right now.

If you intend to build not a temporary, but a permanent bathhouse, follow the advice below. Construction cannot begin without the consent of local authorities. It is possible that the site development plan will need to be changed.

The main thing is that the bathhouse looks great on your site

The most convenient place for a future bathhouse will be the river bank. If there is no river nearby, or building on the bank is impossible, then we recommend placing a small swimming bowl 1.5-2 meters deep on your site.

When building a bathhouse, it is also important to provide a room in which firewood and everything necessary for servicing the bathhouse will be stored. These two rooms must be at least 10 meters apart.

Not the most important, but useful tip: it is better to place the bathhouse windows in the west. The rays of the setting sun will illuminate the hot bath steam very beautifully and create a good, calm mood.

Don’t forget that in addition to the steam room itself, any bathhouse requires a waiting room to undress or go out to cool off. It is necessary to evaluate the height of the proposed bath and, depending on this, decide how many shelves for steaming to make - 2 or 3 levels.

The center of all the action is the sauna stove. Buying cheap sauna stoves in a specialized store or online is now not difficult. The stove in the bathhouse has a strict arrangement. It should heat the dressing room on one side, and the hot water tank on the other. You can also set aside a place for stones that are watered to add heat. Cold water can be poured into a separate container or supplied through a tap - this depends on your budget allocated for the bathhouse. You also need to take care of shelves for soap accessories and hooks for washcloths.

In the dressing room there is usually a table, a bench (or chairs), hangers for clothes, brooms, bath hats and mittens. Heating the dressing room is very important, especially in winter. After all, steam from a bathhouse can greatly moisten clothes left in the dressing room.

After determining the basic plans and designs of the bathhouse, they begin to select materials. They should not deteriorate from water and humidity.

You can't do without these things in the bathhouse

General tips for building a budget sauna

• Take care of the building materials: if it is not possible to buy everything at once, buy in parts, but do not allow them to be destroyed by water or high humidity - buying everything again will not save money;
• In the desire to save money, it is important to clearly determine the size of the bath. If you are satisfied with an average sauna, build it, leaving huge saunas for those who have enough money. The larger the bathhouse, the more building materials will be needed for its construction;
• It is better to build a bathhouse on a garden plot - officials will not force you to pay for the project, take various permits and approvals, which is also not cheap;
• The bathhouse should fit harmoniously into the interior of your site. After all, you are building it for the soul! This is also relevant due to the fact that it is flammable due to the sauna stove - place it at some distance from your other buildings;
• The place where the bathhouse will be located should be as level as possible without any changes. 15-20 cm is acceptable, otherwise you will have to use more material for the foundation;
• The design of the bathhouse is lightweight, so it can be installed on a floating foundation. This does not mean at all that it will literally float in all directions due to ground movements. This is the name given to a special foundation technology;
• After you have decided on the size of the bath and its location, take a sheet of paper and make a drawing. Then write down all the materials; it will be good if the cost is indicated next to each material - this will make it easier to navigate the budget for building a bathhouse;

Once the list is ready, you can purchase building materials and begin construction

Conclusion!

We have given only a few recommendations for building a bathhouse. Naturally, at the beginning of your work you will be faced with a lot of questions, but without this you will not get the bathhouse of your dreams. Having overcome all the obstacles and spent energy on construction, you will get an excellent bathhouse and all your labor costs will pay off for you a hundredfold - friendly gatherings in the bathhouse with friends for many years.

We think now the question is “How to build a bathhouse cheaply?” It’s not so scary for you and has a specific answer. Good luck!

• How to build a sauna cheaply

  
  The question of how to build a bathhouse cheaply worries many; some simply want to save money, while others’ budget does not allow them to go wild. Be that as it may, build a bathhouse

Do-it-yourself sauna is cheap and fast and very simple

After building a house on their plot, most land owners think about building a good steam room there. In this case, the work is supposed to be done with your own hands, and the bathhouse should be built quickly, cheaply and very simply. Satisfying such criteria is not so easy, but it is still possible.

It is unlikely that you should rely on other people's designs or order overly expensive custom building plans. In most cases, a small building is required to meet the needs of a family of 2-3 people.

The foundation is the basis of everything

For most autonomous buildings with little physical load, the following types of foundations are used:

• poured concrete;
• support-columnar;
• on pile-screw supports;
• tape-block.

The simplest is the support-column base. It is used both for frame buildings and timber. This is where a cheap frame bathhouse, built with your own hands, begins.

For support, cement blocks (cinder block) with dimensions of 200x200x400 mm are used. They are mounted according to a prepared template at the corners of a conventional 2x2 m grid. Accordingly, in order to build a 12 m2 bathhouse with your own hands cheaply and step by step, as shown here, you will need approximately 9 such supports. Each of them contains 4 blocks.

Before installation, it is necessary to level the site, and laying should be carried out according to the construction hydraulic level. First you need to pour a layer of sand under the base and compact it. From this stage it is possible to envisage the installation of a weir.

When using screw piles, it is unlikely that it will be possible to reduce the final cost below the price of a strip foundation. However, for swampy areas or for soil with a high groundwater level, this solution will be appropriate. In such a situation, you can save money by installing it yourself without involving third-party specialists or equipment.

You can build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply on a strip foundation made of blocks. For a building of 12 m2, you will need an amount of 6,000 rubles, taking into account the fact that the installation is carried out independently, as well as the preparation of the solution. This will reduce costs.

For most types of foundations, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a sand cushion.

Current building materials

When building walls for a cheap bathhouse with your own hands (there is a video on the website), you can use a large number of modern materials. They have a lot of positive qualities, but the most accessible of them, and at the same time effective, are the following:

In our country, it is enough to use 100 mm thick timber for the outer walls of a bathhouse, which will be used from late spring to late autumn. During installation of the timber, it is necessary to install dowels at least every 0.9-1.0 m. For the classic size of 12 m2, it will be enough to stock up on 62 beams. Such a DIY sauna will definitely be cheaper than its larger counterparts.

Inter-crown insulation is used in the process. The total amount of these materials will be about 25...30 thousand rubles. If you buy all this from a wholesale warehouse or directly from the manufacturer, you can save money.

When building the cheapest wood concrete bathhouse with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following amount of material:

• about 20 bags of cement;
• a quarter or a third of a cube of sawdust;
• sand 2.5-3.0 tons;
• about 1 m 3 of lumber;
• sufficient amount of water.

When pouring a sawdust bath, wait 2-3 days each time for the layer to harden, and only after that the formwork is rearranged. It is necessary to take into account that with this method, the maximum cost of constructing walls is unlikely to exceed 12,000-15,000 rubles.

When building walls from this material, you will need to spend a lot of time protecting them from moisture in the steam room. Increased waterproofing will protect the material from destruction by water.

Construction from wood concrete

In addition to a cheap bathhouse made of timber or wood concrete, you can build a frame structure with your own hands. At the same time, it will need to be reliably insulated. For an estimated building of 12 m2 area, you need to stock up on 3 m3 beams. You will also need to include insulation in the estimate. In the lightweight version, 10 cm thickness is enough. If basalt wool is used during construction, then the total cost of the walls will not exceed 25,000 rubles. At the same time, the advantage of this type of mineral wool is its maximum fire safety.

Floor installation

Any sauna built with your own hands, cheaply and quickly, cannot do without a reliable floor. For its installation, various paired circuits tested by many owners are used. In most cases, you have to use the double base option.

• A 150 mm sand cushion is preliminarily arranged, which can be poured and compacted for better installation.
• The base surface is then poured with 70-80 mm concrete.
• The top layer is a mesh strip, knocked down into a rigid frame. This flooring can be moved and laid as desired.

After each visit, it is advisable to dry and ventilate the wooden frames from the floor outside the walls of the steam room.

The total cost, which includes sand, cement and slats, will be approximately 3000-4000 rubles.

Even before laying and installing the floor surface in the bathhouse, you need to drain it and drain it into a waste pit outside. To avoid odor, it is necessary to use ready-made gutters with water seals.

Working with the ceiling

When working with the ceiling, you need to adhere to certain tricks, only then will you be able to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the video. You cannot use excessively thin lining to cover the ceiling; this applies to a thickness of about 15 mm, as it quickly absorbs moisture and becomes damp. It is necessary to take boards of about 30 mm thickness, which will save on insulation.

Scheme of a quality ceiling

In the old days, a mixture of earth or clay mixed with dry leaves was used to insulate ceilings. This natural option remains in demand today, when you need to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the photo. Sawdust can be used instead of leaves.

For a project of 12 m2, it is enough to have 17 prepared boards with tongues to cover the entire ceiling. Before filling in the insulation, a layer of glassine must be laid on the outside.

A pitched roof will require about 0.7 m 3 of wooden beams. They are covered with two layers of roofing material, and the seams are glued with bitumen. Such a roof can last up to five years without leaking.

Do-it-yourself sauna is cheap and fast and very simple

How to build a good and inexpensive sauna at your dacha with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Many owners of land plots prefer to have their own bathhouse on their suburban plots. The dimensions and internal layout of a bathhouse are a purely individual matter, especially since on several hundred square meters, when every square meter is valuable, it is unlikely that anyone will erect a massive structure.

If you mean inexpensively, and even with your own hands, then the choice of options for building a bathhouse is not so large. Which bathhouse is more appropriate to build at the dacha, what to take into account and provide for - this is discussed in the article.

When it comes to the construction of any building on a summer cottage, various instructions, recommendations and advice often overlook a very important issue - the specifics of the operation of the facility. In other words, is the dacha a place of permanent (year-round) residence, or do the owners come to the site only during the season? In the first case, we should talk about a full-fledged country house. Both it and all other buildings (including the bathhouse) must be built completely. Expensive or cheap is another question.

Firstly, it’s hardly worth counting on being able to come to the dacha to take a steam bath in winter. The main reason is skidding on the roads. While it is still possible to drive up to the massif itself, getting through the alleys to your own dacha is quite problematic.

Secondly, it is necessary to take into account how long it will take to heat the bathhouse. For the majority of summer residents, it is needed on the site only when the owners work or relax on it. And going out of town for the whole day just to take a steam bath for an hour is a dubious pleasure.

Thirdly, the idea of ​​building a bathhouse comes, as a rule, 2–3 years after the development of the site, when everything has already been planned and arranged, including the plantings. Or if the purchased dacha does not have it. It’s unlikely that anyone will want to launch large-scale construction on inhabited territory.

Therefore, before you figure out “how to build” and “inexpensively”, you should find out what materials and technologies can be considered optimal for a summer bath in the country. This information will be much more useful than “step-by-step instructions”, especially since it is not a fact that this is the option the reader will choose.

What to build a bathhouse from

A log or beam (in any modification) is the best solution. The cost of materials cannot be called high, there is no need for a “heavy” foundation, and in terms of “environmental cleanliness” and the effectiveness of procedures, there are no complaints. But there is one “but”.

A bathhouse (at a dacha or other place) is a specific structure. One of the main requirements for it is maximum thermal insulation. Building a high-quality log house with your own hands, no matter what the various instructions say, is quite a complicated matter. How to make joints of workpieces “in the paw”, “in the clap” or in another way is simple and understandable only on paper. But in practice, rarely anyone can build a good bathhouse from logs or timber themselves. Here, only the materials are cheap, but the services of a professional are expensive.

Cellular concrete

Such construction is considered budget-friendly. But is it really that simple? Gas silicate intensively absorbs moisture. The stone itself is inexpensive, but finishing the bath (primarily waterproofing) will not be cheap. It's about the same with foam concrete. In addition, the blocks are “set” on the mortar, so you will need a concrete mixer with all the accompanying “delights” - heaps of sand, crushed stone, bags of cement and dirt in the country.

Is it worth organizing full-scale construction if most garden plots contain only small, lightweight houses? In any case, it is also quite difficult to call such a bathhouse cheap if we are talking about the summer version.

A brick bathhouse should not be considered - this definitely cannot be done either “with your own hands” (a complex matter that requires professionalism) or “inexpensively”. The most acceptable solution for a summer residence is a bathhouse built using frame technology. Let’s look at the features of its construction.

Frame bathhouse in the country

Taking into account the fact that there is not too much free space at the dacha, you will have to be content with a small building. There is another reason that limits the size of the bathhouse. By definition, it is a fire hazard, so it is built at a distance from residential buildings (both your own country house and neighbors), as well as fences and roads - at least 15 m. But this is in theory. In practice, you just need to clarify what restrictions apply to your dacha area. Perhaps local conditions are more “mild”.

But we definitely can’t talk about a massive structure with several rooms. For a dacha, the optimal size of a bathhouse will be 3.5 x 3.5 or 3 x 4 m. It is quite enough to divide the building into 3 rooms (dressing room, steam room and washing room), and it will be really inexpensive.

For a small bathhouse in a country house, the best solution is a pile-grillage foundation. Firstly, you can install screw supports yourself. You only need one assistant to ensure that the pile does not go sideways during installation. Secondly, such supports are easy to expand with additional “knees”. Consequently, groundwater and freezing depth are not the determining criteria when choosing the type of foundation. The pile foundation is suitable for almost any terrain. The main thing is to correctly calculate the installation depth of the supports. Thirdly, there is no need for any excavation work, which is important for a developed summer cottage.

There are other inexpensive options - installing a bathhouse on sleepers, stones, etc. - but this is hardly a good solution. The possibility of soil heaving cannot be discounted, so such a bathhouse will have to be constantly reconstructed.

Since we are talking about a small-sized bathhouse, it is not difficult to assemble the “skeleton” by installing timber in the corners. The best option is to make the strapping, sheathing and carry out all other finishing activities with your own hands without any difficulty.

Main stages of bathhouse construction

Marking the territory and laying the foundation

• Piles are screwed into the ground at the corners, as well as at the points where the internal walls adjoin the external ones. Depending on their length, additional supports are placed at intervals of approximately 2 m. If the soil is soft, you can drive in pipes and pour concrete mortar into them for strength. All that remains is to align them on top in a horizontal plane and weld on the heads.
• The root system of most weeds develops at a depth of up to 150 mm. Therefore, you will have to excavate the soil in the outlined rectangle (square) to prevent the germination of weeds under the bathhouse. The thickness of the layer is about 30 cm. Why, it will become clear later.
• To prevent the appearance of groundwater in this area, the soil should be compacted and filled with rich clay, which is also compacted. The result will be a primary layer of waterproofing.
• Next is a thickened P/E film (the cheapest insulating material).
• On top there is a backfill of expanded clay (10 cm is enough). It will provide additional insulation of the “bottom” of the bathhouse, so the influence of the cold coming from the ground will be practically neutralized.
• Experienced builders recommend using a cement screed. But this is already taking into account that it is not a residential building that is being erected, but a bathhouse - at the discretion of the owner.

Assembling the bath frame

Its elements need to be attached to something. Therefore, the piles are first tied. For the support frame, it is better to purchase used sleepers. This is already prepared (impregnated) material, which can be purchased either at the railway or at a specialized enterprise, from the so-called substandard.

Another option is to purchase timber. The blanks have the correct geometry, it is not difficult to fasten them together with your own hands (staples, plates, corners). All that remains is to impregnate it with special agents (antiseptic + fire retardant) and dry it. In practice, it is enough to treat it with machine oil (used), in some cases, and coat it with liquid tar.

Installing vertical posts from the same timber is also not a problem. The strapping is done with slats.

Sheathing of the structure

The most inexpensive options are boards or multilayer plywood (FC or FSF). Such sheets are cheap, and given the fact that they are characterized by high moisture resistance, they are quite suitable for a bathhouse.

Everything else concerns the internal arrangement. Here everyone has their own decision.

• For a country bathhouse, the optimal roofing option is flat (single-pitched). It hardly makes sense to build a rafter system if any site already has a utility room for storing garden tools. A flat roof is the most inexpensive option.
• For a country bath, it is advisable to choose a small heater. You can make such a stove with your own hands (on the question of “inexpensive”). And there will be no problems with fuel.
• When choosing timber, you should focus on larch. Considering the specific structure, especially excess moisture, it is better suited than other breeds. When wet, this tree only gains strength, which is required from the point of view of the durability of the structure.
• It is quite difficult to insulate a frame bathhouse, since there will definitely be gaps. Therefore, since all the finishing is done with your own hands, it is advisable to focus on insulation with a reflective surface. For example, Penofol (also inexpensive). Taking into account the small dimensions of a country bath, a thickness of 10 - 12 mm is quite enough. Please note - the material is laid with foil inside the room!

Perhaps the information provided is enough to understand which bathhouse option for a summer residence is better.

Many specialized companies market ready-made house designs as inexpensive bathhouses for summer cottages, which are delivered to the site and installed on a pre-prepared foundation. The starting price is about 105,000 rubles (2.5 x 4). It seems inexpensive. But this does not take into account several points.

Firstly, will heavy equipment be able to drive through country lanes?

Secondly, will the reach of the crane boom be sufficient to install a bathhouse in the location chosen for it?

Thirdly, such houses have only a rough finish. Consequently, issues of insulation, purchase and installation of a stove, laying communications and a number of others will have to be resolved separately. And these are additional costs.

Therefore, this option is unlikely to fall into the “inexpensive” category. It’s easier to build a frame house for a bathhouse at your dacha with your own hands.

How to build a sauna at your dacha with your own hands, inexpensively and quickly

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Inexpensive bathhouse. Savings during construction.

For Russian people, the bathhouse has long been not only a place for washing, but also a real health resort. And fans of healthy steam will agree that no shower or bath can compare with a bath, and certainly will never replace it. And it’s difficult to imagine a country house or cottage without a bathhouse. But what to do if you don’t have the funds to order a turnkey bathhouse? Of course, building it yourself, especially since building a bathhouse with your own hands will help you save a lot.

Where to start and how to build a sauna cheaply? The construction of a bathhouse has some features and differs from the construction of a house or other outbuildings.

First you need to decide on the location and design of the future building. It is advisable not to combine a bathhouse with other buildings, unless, of course, the area of ​​your site allows it. The dimensions of the building are determined by the size of its internal premises: locker rooms, washing rooms, steam rooms, relaxation rooms.

An integral attribute of any bathhouse is the dressing room, which must have good lighting and be insulated. In addition to the Russian bath, the Finnish bath is also very popular. Their main difference is in the thermal regime. The Russian sauna is wet (at 70 0C the humidity is 60/80%), and the Finnish sauna is dry (at temperatures above 90 0C the humidity is only 20/30%).

As a material for a bath, you can use brick, rubble or natural stone, gas silicate blocks, but it is better, of course, to give preference to wood. It is believed that dry beams and logs made of coniferous species with a thickness of 12/20 cm are perfect for building a bathhouse. At the same time, the beams and logs should have a small number of resin cavities, knots, from which resin will begin to flow at high temperatures. It is believed that pine and spruce are able to quickly and completely absorb steam, while maintaining constant humidity and temperature in the room. In addition, when the temperature rises, a pleasant resinous smell will be released.

An integral part of any structure is the foundation. To begin with, before starting its construction, you need to prepare the site for future construction. The area allocated for the bathhouse is cleared of foreign objects, then the plant layer (turf) must be removed from it and leveled.

After all of the above, you can begin to lay out the site according to the plan. In the corners of the area prepared for the bathhouse, cast-offs from the outer contour (at a distance of 1/1.5 m) of the future building are installed. The castoffs, which are used to mark the outline of the foundation, are pegs with bars nailed on top and cords stretched.

In order to check that the cast-offs are installed correctly, it is necessary to compare the distance between all diagonal corners. If the distances are equal, this indicates that the sides of the foundation are parallel. However, strict parallelism between the walls of the bathhouse and the foundation is undesirable, since sound waves reflected from the walls will create a lot of noise. Therefore, the opposite walls are positioned so that their deviation from the parallel position is 40. In this case, one wall deviates from the parallel position in one direction by 20, and the second wall in the other direction by 20 (3.5 cm for each meter of length).

If your site has dry, dense and homogeneous soil, then large natural bedded stones can be laid in place of the foundation, and the lower crowns of the bathhouse, treated with an antiseptic and hot bitumen, can be placed on them. Stones are laid at all corners of the building, at the junction of external and internal walls, as well as throughout the entire area of ​​the site at a distance of at least 1 m. Or better yet, lay the stones in a continuous strip and put waterproofing on top of them. The gaps between the soil, stones and lower crowns are filled with crumpled clay. It is also necessary to fill the trench that was formed after removing the turf with clay. Thus, the resulting blind area will protect the structure from the penetration of rain and melt water.

If your site has an uneven surface with wet and heterogeneous soil (which happens most often), then you will have to build a real foundation (only a simplified type, laying it to the required depth). If your site has clay soil, then most likely in winter your foundation will rise (up to 10/15 cm) along with the frozen soil. In summer it will settle again. As a result, this will lead to distortions of the structure and cracks in the walls. That is why the foundation should be laid 15/20 cm below the freezing depth of the ground. Since the bathhouse is a fairly light structure, the foundation (if the soil freezes to it) can swell even when it is laid deep. If you don't want this to happen, when building your foundation, you need to pay special attention to creating a fireproof shell or fireproof shields around it. Sand and fine gravel are perfect for this, filling the space around the foundation. You can also use polyethylene film, which is laid in two layers, between which grease or grease is spread. However, anti-blow protection made of polyethylene is considered more reliable. As a lubricant, you can use a mixture of garden pitch with used machine oil, as well as grease. With such a shell, the foundation is covered to the entire depth of soil freezing or at least 70% of this depth.

Foundations by design can be strip (solid under the wall), columnar and pile. For a bathhouse, a columnar foundation is most often built from brick, concrete, stone or combinations thereof.

A sauna made of wood perfectly holds and releases heat, and also allows steam and air to pass through. Therefore, for walls it is best to use a frame made of logs or beams. The first crown of the log house is made from thicker logs (it is called the frame), and all the rest are made from logs with a smaller cross-section.

As a result, the entire frame is made up of individual crowns.

Before installing the flashing on the foundation, it is necessary to lay waterproofing between them. You can also use pads (cross bars) between the waterproofing and the flashing. The underside of the flashing, as well as the linings, are treated with an antiseptic and covered with tar (at the same time, the ends of the logs and beams are not coated with tar: the wood will “breathe” through them). The gap between the frame and the foundation is filled with brick and filled with cement. In places where the beams and logs touch the mortar, they are covered with roofing felt or roofing felt, laid in 2 layers.

After the walls have settled, you can begin covering them. Insulation must be laid between the cladding material and the log house, both inside and outside the bathhouse. For internal cladding, high-quality lining made of coniferous wood is used. For finishing ceilings and walls, it is best to use lining made from deciduous trees that have a low density (wood with a high density will get very hot). The sheathing is carried out along slats that are previously nailed to the wall, and there should be a gap between the sheathing and the insulation or wall, which will facilitate drying of the sheathing material after using the bathhouse. It will also be better if you cover the lower part of the walls in the washing room with fiberglass, plastic sheets or any other moisture-proof material.

The bathhouse covering (ceiling and roof) can be attic or non-attic. Attic coverings are a ceiling (attic floor) with a roof built above it.

It is preferable to make such coverings for baths that are used all year round. For bathhouses installed in country or garden areas, it is better to use a roofless roof (with a combined ceiling and roof). Such roofs are less expensive. Roofless roofs can be gable or single-pitch. It is better to give preference to a gable roof, as it looks more modern. The angle of the roof slope depends on the material from which the roof is made. When using steel (tin), make an angle within 15/270; if slate is used as a roofing material, then the slope angle will be 270, and if made from rolled material, then 3/150. The slope angle of non-attic coverings usually does not exceed 100. When the angle increases, it is better to use attic-type coverings.

The drainage system and floors are important elements and must be constructed with the utmost seriousness. There are two types of floors used for baths: wooden and concrete. In the dressing room and vestibule, and sometimes in wet rooms, wooden floors are laid: they retain heat well and are pleasant on the feet.

However, in wet rooms - steam rooms and washing rooms - it is better to make concrete floors with tiles laid on top. Wooden gratings are laid over this floor, which can be easily removed, wiped and dried. Concrete floors are more durable than wood floors. Before you begin building the floor, you need to make a foundation for the stove, as well as a drainage system. In the steam room and washing room, normal water flow must be ensured, and the spillway must discharge used water directly into the absorption pit. If your site has sandy soil that easily absorbs water, then you can use an absorption pit in the washing area for drainage. The dimensions of the pit should exceed 60x60 cm, and the depth should be 0.5 m. The pit is filled with crushed stone, gravel, sand, broken bricks, while the rest of the room the soil is compacted with a slight slope towards the pit and covered with a layer of crushed stone and gravel. Along the foundation, the soil is covered with compacted clay. If your site has clay soil, then a pit is made to collect water. Water is drained from the pit through a drain pipe into an absorption pit near the bathhouse.

For a concrete floor, a backfill is made of gravel and sand (thickness up to 15 cm). The backfill is compacted with a slope towards the pit and covered with a layer of concrete, the thickness of which is 3/5 cm, as well as a layer of cement to level the surface.

In a plank floor, it is advisable to make the upper plane of the boards sloping. To ensure good drainage, the boards are mounted on joists with a gap of 5/6 mm. The logs are installed on supporting brick pillars (25x25 cm), covered with waterproofing, on a concrete or sand cushion. Instead of wooden logs and brick pillars, it is very convenient to use asbestos-cement pipes, which are also laid on a concrete pad, crushed stone filling or compacted soil.

A sauna stove can be brick, electric or metal. Which one you prefer is up to you. The stove is installed on a foundation and should not touch wooden walls. The location of the stove should ensure heating of all rooms of the bathhouse at once. Stoves with an extended firebox are very popular. This configuration allows the firebox to be fired from the dressing room.

The chimney pipe is made of brick with a hole of 19x19 cm. You can also use an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 150 mm. It is necessary to ensure that the wooden roof elements are not located closer than 150 mm from the pipe.

The shelves are installed in the steam room (in its hottest zone) at a height of 1.5/1.7 m from the floor. The shelves consist of three sections: one lies on the floor, and the other two are mounted on the walls. In general, shelf configurations can be varied.

Firewood is used to heat the bathhouse, preferably birch.

Of course, building a bathhouse with your own hands is a troublesome task, but the result justifies the material and physical costs.

Build a sauna inexpensively on your own

Having analyzed various methods of building baths, taking into account our material and physical capabilities, we decided to build a frame bath on our site. The overall dimensions of the closed part of the bathhouse are 4x4 meters, plus an open veranda measuring 2x4 meters, all of this was brought under a common roof. The dimensions of the steam room are 1.80 x 3 meters, the sinks are 1.80 x 1 meter, the relaxation room is combined with a dressing room measuring 2.20 x 4 meters.

They decided to make a combined foundation for the bathhouse: a strip foundation for the main building, and a support foundation for the veranda.

First, we carried out the planning, dug a trench 0.5 meters deep, 0.4 meters wide along the perimeter of the main building, then we installed formwork, laid reinforcement and poured concrete, the foundation must be poured in one step, after securing the foundation, waterproofing was installed.

For the foundation for the veranda, holes were dug over the entire area of ​​the veranda every 1 meter for asbestos-cement pipes, 0.5 meters deep, pipe diameter 150 - 200 mm. Concrete was poured inside each pipe.

The bottom and top frames were made of timber with a cross-section of 100 x 100 mm, the corners were connected using a cut (dovetail), for strength they were connected with metal corners to avoid displacement, the bottom frame was placed on pins made of reinforcing steel, cemented into the foundation.

Intermediate racks made of 100 x 100 mm timber were installed on the walls. leaving room for a window and front door. A hydro-vapor barrier was laid under the exterior, the outside walls were lined with 10 mm thick DSP boards, and the joint edges were taped.

Rolled URSU 100 mm thick was used as insulation, and a vapor barrier film was placed under the internal lining.

The steam room was insulated more seriously, using foil URSU in the walls and ceiling to achieve the effect of a thermos, and laid a heat insulator with foil inside the room.

The walls and ceiling of the steam room were decorated with aspen paneling, the shelves of the steam room were made of linden. The sink was finished with DSP and covered with tiles.

The floor beams and rafters are made of boards 150 x 50 mm, the distance between the rafters is 100 - 120 cm, all corners are fastened with metal corners, the sheathing is made of boards 25 mm thick, laying them from the ridge.

The roof was covered with metal tiles.

We made the floors in the steam room and shower concrete, having previously laid a drain pipe from the sink and steam room.

Then they put tiles in the sink, and a wooden slatted flooring in the steam room, so there was no stagnation of moisture.

The rest room has wooden floors covered with linoleum.

For better ventilation, in the steam room and shower, an exhaust fan is installed in the ventilation pipe.

In the final version, we finished the outer walls with metal siding to resemble a “log”, and painted the inner walls of the rest room with a special varnish in two layers.

The sink was tiled.

The stove is installed on the common foundation of the bathhouse.

The part that opens into the rest room was lined with decorative bricks and decorated with finishing tiles.

The pipe from the stove, passing through the ceiling, is insulated from wood with heat-resistant thermal insulation; special attention must be paid to this for fire safety purposes.

In the attic of the bathhouse, you can install a water heater for 80 -100 liters.

How to save money when building a bathhouse

It seems that everyone who has a country house or plot of land dreams of their own bathhouse: to come with friends, relax, and even show off the bathhouse. Or improve your health yourself, relax after a busy day at work. How to build a sauna inexpensively is a question that we will try to answer in this article.

Moreover, you will not see specific figures, because the cost of building materials varies in regions. We will try to give a number of practical tips to reduce the cost of building a bathhouse.

The most important point when building a bathhouse is to decide on its design. You need to start with the foundation and decide what it will be. As you know, foundations are divided into strip and columnar.

If you are going to build a frame bathhouse, take into account the small load that it will exert on the surface, and feel free to use ordinary reinforced concrete slabs as the foundation.

Also at this stage it is necessary to decide how many rooms there will be in the building. If a traditional Russian bath consists of a dressing room and a steam room (which also serves as a washing room), then a Finnish sauna requires the presence of three rooms: a dressing room, a washing room and the steam room itself.

At this stage, you should decide how electricity will be supplied, how water will flow into and out of your bathhouse.

Drawing up an estimate for a bathhouse

So, there is a project. Now you need to decide on the materials and think about their delivery to the place where you will build the bathhouse. The best option is to buy building materials in one place.

What will be included in the estimate?

Bathhouse foundation. The material for it will depend on the type chosen (this includes rubble stone, brick, concrete, wood, etc.);

Frame. These are, of course, beams (for piping, internal partitions, load-bearing parts of the roof);

Internal and external cladding;

Thermal insulation. You can choose mineral wool or polystyrene foam;

Waterproofing. The choice of materials is large - from ordinary roofing felt to breathable non-woven membranes. You can also use aluminum foil and film;

Floor. Traditionally, a wooden floor is laid in the dressing room, and tiles are laid in the steam room;

Ceiling. Planks are also used here;

Roof. You can choose the building material for it depending on your wallet and preferences. It is important to remember that when laying slate for the base, you need less material than when using ondulin;

A stove for a bathhouse can be made inexpensively by using a barrel, metal and ordinary brick to construct a wall screen;

Doors, windows, shelves - the choice is yours;

Various fastening materials.

Bathhouse after finishing