DIY frame two-story house. Let's figure out how to build a frame house according to all the rules. Installation step and cross-section of racks

It’s not for nothing that frame houses are called energy efficient. Residential buildings of this type consume 30% less energy in winter than those built using conventional technology. The advantages include ease of assembly of structures, low weight and availability of materials. Assembling a frame house with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a person who has the skills to work with wood and a supply of the necessary tools. Detailed step-by-step instructions will help him with this.

Frames are erected on average in 2-4 months. The experience of cold Scandinavian and North American countries confirms the strength and durability of structures. In a short period of time, comfortable housing appears on the construction site, the price of which is 15-20% lower than that of brick or concrete. In Russia, the construction of frame houses is gaining momentum. It is standardized by the document SP 31-105-2002, which is based on Canadian and American developments.

A frame house is a rigid system of support posts, horizontal and inclined connections, resting on a pile, pile-grillage, slab or shallow strip foundation. In the classic version, the space between the racks is filled with insulation. Most often - basalt wool. The outside and inside of the structure is sheathed with finishing materials.

Another way to build a frame house is to install walls and ceilings from rigid SIP panels, consisting of two OSB boards and a layer of expanded polystyrene between them. Systems are assembled in different ways. In the first case, the frame is installed element by element or in blocks, and in the second, large-sized panels are mounted like a constructor, observing the sequence. The easiest way to assemble a frame house with your own hands is step-by-step installation of the supporting system, insulation and finishing. In this case, construction lifting mechanisms and a large team of workers will not be needed. All operations can be performed independently or with the help of 1-2 friends.

Prices for cement and basic mixtures

Step 1: Foundation for a frame house

A house on a frame is a lightweight structure that does not require a powerful buried foundation. The bearing capacity of pile or strip foundations with a depth of up to 50 cm is sufficient to ensure that the load from the structure is absorbed and transmitted to the soil.

Pile foundations are rods made of concrete, reinforced concrete or metal buried in the ground. Their advantages:

• quick installation;
• a small amount of excavation work or even its absence;
• a short interval between the completion of the installation of foundations and further installation of structures.

An exception is the installation of monolithic piles and grillage. Here you need to wait until the concrete gains strength. This usually takes 1-2 weeks. Since the load will increase gradually, it is not necessary to wait until the standard period of 28 days to begin installing the frame.

Metal piles are screwed in using manual or mechanized drilling equipment. Ready-made concrete anchors are immersed into the drilled holes using driving or pressing equipment. The construction of such foundations takes 1-3 days and is carried out by specialized organizations.

Monolithic bored piles can be made independently. Concrete of a grade not lower than M 200 is used. For formwork, roofing felt rolled into a tube is used. It is placed in the hole, and a reinforcement frame of 3-4 rods is installed inside. The solution is poured into the cavity of the structure, compacting it layer by layer using a vibrating tool.

At the top of the piles, load-bearing crossbars made of metal, concrete or wood are mounted on the pile heads. In this case, the underground remains open.

Pile foundation with hanging reinforced concrete grillage.

The grillage connects individual piles into a rigid, stable system. May be:

• hanging;
• ground;
• buried.

In the latter case, this is an analogue of a shallow strip foundation. It is constructed from monolithic reinforced concrete around the perimeter of the house and under load-bearing partitions. The pit is dug to a depth of 30-50 cm, filled with sand and crushed stone.

Formwork is installed on the cushion. Steel frames are placed inside, which are rigidly tied to the outlets of the pile reinforcement. To fasten the lower strapping beam, metal studs with a diameter of 12 mm with threads are prepared in advance. They are welded or screwed with wire to the frame rods every 150-200 cm along the length of the grillage. Fasteners should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the corners of the foundation and protrude above the upper edge of the structure by 13-15 cm.

Installation of a recessed grillage.

The installation locations of the racks are first marked on the formwork so that they do not coincide with the fasteners for the horizontal beam.

The surface of the base is treated with waterproofing mastic, 2-3 layers of roofing felt or other moisture-proof material are laid.

A monolithic foundation is arranged in a similar way. If the base is a slab, concrete is poured over the entire area of ​​the house with a protrusion of 20 cm beyond the perimeter. The thickness of the structure is 10-20 cm, reinforcement is with welded mesh.

- almost finished base for the floors. Particular attention should be paid to insulation. Expanded polystyrene slabs are used, which are laid on crushed stone preparation. They are not afraid of moisture, do not rot, and retain their thermal insulation properties for 50 years.

When concreting monolithic slabs, sleeves are installed for supplying communications. They provide access when laying water or sewer pipes. Underground passages must be equipped in advance, otherwise it will be very difficult to install channels later.

In above-ground and shallow foundations, the installation of sleeves is necessary for ventilation of the underground space. In frame structures this is a very important point that cannot be neglected. Hoods reduce air humidity, which has a detrimental effect on wooden structures.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

The bottom frame, or bed, is a horizontal structure that transfers the load from the entire house to the foundation. It is made from well-dried edged boards 50x150 mm or timber with a cross-section of 100x150 mm.

We install the harness and logs

Sequence of operations when installing the bed:

1. Lay out boards or beams treated with bioprotective compounds and fire retardants around the perimeter of the foundation. Trim off the excess.
2. Mark the bolt locations by laying a flat on top and lightly hitting each fastener with a hammer.
3. Use a powerful drill to drill holes in the dent areas. The diameter should be 3 mm larger than the bolt cross-section.
4. Insulation is laid on the foundation - fiberglass tape, and a bed is installed on top.
5. Screw the nuts onto the bolts with washers using an impact wrench or manually with a wrench.
6. Check the horizontality of the lower trim with a level or building level. If you need to change the position of the beam, loosen the nut, place wooden wedges and raise it to a new level. The gap is filled with liquid concrete.

In the corners, the beams are joined “half-tree” or with a root tenon.

Laying the bed.

The next stage after laying the bed is installing the floors. When installing a frame house using the “Canadian platform” method, they will serve as the basis for assembling wall blocks. If you plan to install the racks sequentially, it is more convenient to move around the finished floor than constantly climbing a stepladder.

Floors in a frame house are installed in three ways:

• on the ground;
• by lags;
• on a finished slab foundation.

Floors along joists are installed in a house on a pile or strip foundation. In this case, a ventilated subfloor is formed between the bottom of the structure and the ground. Lags are laid in three ways:

• rest on a bench and reinforce it on the outside with a façade board;
• installed in the grooves cut out in the lower trim;
• mounted end-to-end to the beam using metal brackets.

For logs, timber with a cross section from 110x60 mm to 220x180 mm is used, depending on the distance between the supports. The larger the span, the more powerful the element should be.

The laying step is 50-60 cm. In places where heavy equipment or furniture is installed, beams are installed more often - every 30-40 cm.

Installation of floor joists.

The procedure for carrying out work when installing a floor using joists on metal brackets:

1. Cut and cut the beams to the required length.
2. They are installed on galvanized brackets and secured with self-tapping screws or nails.
3. Skull bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are nailed to the bottom of the logs.
4. Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB sheets are laid on the bars. The flooring will serve as a base for the insulation.

When spanning over 2.5 m, spacers are installed between the logs - pieces of timber or boards that give bending rigidity to the system. They are secured with nails, nailing them into the end obliquely through the joist.

The spacing of the spacers depends on the span width:

• 2.5-3.5 m - 1 element;
• 3.5-5.4 - 2 boards;
• 5.4-7.2 - 3 spacers;
• more than 7.2 m - from 4 pieces.

All wooden structures are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants before installation. This extends the life of the material and protects against rot, insects and fire.

Insulation and flooring

One of the main tasks if we are building a frame house is to reliably insulate all surfaces. Up to 10-15% of heat is lost through floors and basements, so special attention must be paid to the thermal insulation of structures.

The following materials are used to insulate wooden floors:

• granulated - expanded clay, slag, vermiculite;
• rolled - stone, glass, slag wool, polyethylene foam, cork;
• slabs made of mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, chipboard;
• liquid - polyurethane foam, ecowool.

Waterproofing from dense films is spread over the flooring in 2 layers with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Granular, slab or roll insulation is laid in a thickness corresponding to the thermal calculations for the climate of a particular region. Usually this is 10-20 cm for mineral wool, 30 cm for expanded clay.

The materials are covered on top with a vapor barrier membrane, through the pores of which moisture can evaporate into the atmosphere. The film is secured with a stapler. To create a ventilation gap, counter battens are placed along the joists.

Important. If you do not create conditions for the evaporation of water in the underground space, over time the insulation will become damp and the wood will begin to rot.

Vapor barrier with ventilation gap.

The finishing coating with a soundproofing gasket is installed along the counter slats.

If foil materials are used for insulation, when laying them they are turned towards the room. This will reflect the infrared rays into the room.

Step 3: Frame Walls

A frame house is assembled with your own hands from individual elements, cutting and adjusting them at the construction site. It is possible to install larger sections or even entire structures prepared at the factory.

Frame assembly methods

Prefabricated buildings today are built in the following ways:

• traditional - they sequentially assemble a frame from racks, crossbars, jibs, insulate the walls, install the sheathing;
• using the “Canadian platform” method - sections are prepared horizontally on the rough floor and placed in the design position;
• from SIP panels - large elements, cut at the factory, are assembled on site using connecting bars and polyurethane glue;
• according to the German “half-timbered” technology - frame boards, which are also decorative finishing, are placed outside the insulation;
• according to Swedish technology - the frame is assembled from two battens, the first is intended for installing insulation and fastening the external finishing, the second is used for laying communications and installing internal cladding.

Installation of the frame using the “Canadian platform” method.

In private construction, for do-it-yourself assembly, the classic method is more often used, which does not require complex installation work and the cost of lifting equipment.

Installation and section of racks

The installation steps for frame posts include:

1. Marking on the subfloor covering where the racks will be installed. Typically the step is 60 cm. This is convenient for subsequent laying of mineral wool slabs. In two-story buildings, the distance is reduced to 40 cm.
2. Cutting supports from dry treated boards 50 mm thick. The cross-section is selected based on load-bearing capacity.
3. Installation of racks in corners, leveling, securing with temporary jibs.
4. Installation of intermediate elements.
5. Connecting the supports with a beam of the upper trim.
6. Reinforcement of window and door lintels with boards laid on edge. If this is not done, the frame will become pinched when it bends, and cracks will appear on the glass, façade finishing and internal wall surfaces.
7. Reinforcement of the frame with jibs made of 100x25 or 150x25 boards, embedded in the upper and lower frames, perforated steel strips, and horizontal jumpers. Additional reinforcement is not required if the frame is sheathed with rigid sheets of OSB or multi-layer plywood.
8. Covering the beams of the upper and lower trim with a frontal board. It is recommended to lay a layer of basalt wool to insulate the structure.

To select the section of the racks, all the loads acting on the supporting frame are summed up. If the building is small, then with a height of up to two floors, the dimensions of the timber are:

• for external walls - 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm;
• for internal partitions - 100x50 mm.

The strength of such sections is quite sufficient to withstand vertical and lateral loads. During thermal engineering calculations, it may turn out that the placement of thermal insulation requires a greater than calculated width of the racks.

It is not advisable to increase the cross-section of the supporting beam. In this case, the insulation is laid in 2 layers - one between the frame posts, the second along the outer sheathing with dressing. This arrangement will help to avoid heat loss through wooden elements, corners, and frames of openings.

Jib or braces

Jib or braces are installed temporarily to give stability to the frame during installation or permanently so that the structure maintains its geometry for a long time.

The jibs in the frame are installed obliquely.

In order for the permanent jibs to fulfill their role - to provide rigidity to the frame, when installing them, follow the rules:

• elements are mounted with an inclination of 40°-60°;
• the thickness of the jibs is no more than 1/4 of the height of the rack section;
• fastening the brace to the frame - only by inserting; with other types of joints, drying out of the wood leads to loss of stability of the unit;
• the jibs are cut flush with the posts, strappings and jumpers;
• At least two braces are installed on one wall, tilted in different directions;
• They are nailed to the posts along the length with 2-3 nails.

Instead of jibs in the corners of the frame, you can use OSB-3 12 sheets. Diagonal rigidity of the structure will be ensured.

Corners of a frame house

The corner is one of the problem areas in a frame house. Installing timber without an additional insulating layer leads to the formation of a cold bridge. Wood has a higher thermal conductivity than mineral wool, so the wall in the corner of the room may freeze.

To prevent this from happening, structures are formed in one of four ways:

• From two racks. The junction of two walls is reinforced with a finishing corner.

• "California" corner. A board or strip of OSB is nailed to the inside of the outermost post. Insulation is inserted into the formed shelf.

• Closed corner. The structure is formed by three boards connected by the letter P. In terms of the quality of insulation, this type of joint is better than the first; it requires laying an insulator on the outside.

• "Scandinavian" corner. The warmest of the three options. They are assembled from three racks in such a way that cold bridges practically do not form.

The first two methods are more technologically advanced, but their thermal insulation qualities are lower. At the junction of the two walls there are through gaps that are very difficult to seal.

Step 4: Covering

The installation of a frame house ceiling is similar to the installation of a floor. Beams made of a board placed on edge, a wooden I-beam, timber or round timber cut on both sides are attached to the top frame.

The cross-section of plank structures is selected at the rate of 1/20-1/25 of the span width. For example, a room 6x4 m is covered with load-bearing beams 400 cm/20 = 20 cm high.

The installation step is 60-80 cm, the timber can be laid at distances of up to 1 m. It is advisable to connect the floor beams and frame posts into a single flat element during installation. This will add additional rigidity to the structure.

The elements are mounted on brackets end-to-end to the frame or laid on top and attached to a frontal board placed on edge.

Fastening beams with brackets.

Sequence of work:

1. A 50x200 mm frontal board is installed around the perimeter of the house.
2. A middle beam with a cross section of 50x200 mm is laid along the long wall.
3. The logs are installed in increments of 58 cm, securing their ends to the front board and the middle beam.
4. All nodes are additionally shot with a nail gun or nails are nailed by hand with a hammer.

Important. Fastening is allowed only with nails; it is not recommended to use self-tapping screws.

If the span width is more than 6 m, glued laminated timber is used. It consists of thin wooden slats and resists bending much better than solid wood structures.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

The rafter system of a frame house is installed in several stages:

We begin the installation of the drainage system and roofing material - metal tiles:

1. Hooks for drainage gutters are attached to the eaves strip with a slope towards the drainage pipes.
2. Lay the first four sheets of tiles without fastening. Align it along the end and edge of the cornice, screw it with self-tapping screws at the rate of 8-9 pieces per 2 m². Hardware is attached to the lower part of the wave using sealing gaskets made of rubber or polypropylene.
3. Install ridge elements and wind strips.

Step 6: Insulation

Insulation of a frame house is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Install a vapor barrier film along the inner contour of the walls. It will protect the thermal insulation from water vapor that penetrates from the warm room into the room and condenses in the thickness of the material. The junction points are glued with butyl rubber tape and fixed to the frame with a stapler.
2. To connect 2 sheets of film, double-sided tape is glued to the edge. Apply a vapor barrier with an overlap of 100 mm and press tightly.
3. Thermal insulation slabs, usually mineral wool, are cut to the size of the frame sections. The width of the material should be 10-20 mm greater than the distance between the posts. Cut the insulation with a knife or saw with fine teeth.
4. Install the slabs between the frame elements in 2 layers with an offset of at least 150 mm. The total thickness of the insulation is 200 mm.
5. A hydro-windproof membrane is laid on the outside to protect the thermal insulation from blowing out and getting wet. Attached to the posts with a stapler.
6. The joints are taped with double-sided tape.

Now you can start finishing work. If a developer plans to build a frame house, step-by-step instructions will help you understand the principles and nuances of its construction.

The housing issue will never lose its relevance. This explains why two-story frame houses are so popular.

Such projects are practical, functional and inexpensive. They are equally appropriate in the capital region and in provincial towns.

Algorithm for building a two-story country cottage

In order for a country house to be durable and cozy, it is necessary to carry out construction according to the specified scheme.

• Pouring the foundation.

A light strip foundation is quite sufficient. The weight of the frame is small, there is no point in pouring a heavy foundation or driving powerful piles.

• Communications liner.

Electricity, gas pipeline, sewerage - all these utilities must be connected to the cottage at the initial stage of construction.

• Installation of the frame.

The base of the building is assembled from a house kit. This assembly takes a matter of days. It does not require the use of heavy construction equipment.

• Roof installation.

Once the roofing materials have been selected, you can begin installing the roof. This is an important process on which it depends how warm, reliable, and durable it will be.

• Insulation of frame and roof.

If the house is intended for year-round use, then this item is required. If you plan to use the cottage only in the summer, then you can save on thermal insulation.

• Installation of doors and windows.

The simplest stage of construction. It will only take a few days to implement it.

• Exterior finishing.

Turnkey construction work involves finishing the facade of the building, installing a porch, and equipping extensions such as a veranda and terrace. Finishing is included in the total price of the entire building.

Advantages of two-story frame houses

The main advantage of such buildings is their affordable price. This concerns not only the cost of the building, but also its subsequent maintenance. For its owner, maintaining such a house will cost 2-3 times less than maintaining a similar brick cottage.

In addition, frame cottages are distinguished by good thermal efficiency, environmental friendliness and ease of construction.

In order to build a two-story frame house, it is necessary to clearly understand the list of all necessary types of work, the algorithm for their implementation and the possibility of using certain design solutions. You must adhere to all the recommendations of specialists, allowing you to perform your assigned tasks efficiently and reliably.

Distinctive features of the construction of frame buildings are the quick turnaround time, low financial costs, environmental safety and good performance properties of the structures. That is why such houses are currently in great demand, both in Russia and in many other countries of the world.

Construction Features

One of the main features of the construction of frame houses is that they can be erected without problems in a fairly short period of time. In just a month, a new building can be completely ready for a family to move into. In addition, it is currently possible to order a two-story frame house 7 by 7 or 8 by 8 meters on a turnkey basis.

Sectional view of the building showing its main elements.

Video of the construction of frame houses on our website. Thanks to this, the process of building construction can be constantly monitored, based on the experience of other people.

Pros of a two-story house

Almost anyone can build a two-story frame house with their own hands. This requires certain knowledge, which can be obtained from this article. And construction skills develop over a very rapid period of time.

Experts consider the following qualities to be the main advantages of two-story houses:

1. Possibility to build a house on a limited plot of land. If a person’s property area does not allow him to build a large one-story house, the construction of a two-story frame building is the most reliable and correct way out of the current situation.
2. Freeing up space on the site for a garden, vegetable garden or playground. Both in rural and urban areas, the listed elements of the exterior of the house are quite necessary for most people.
3. Financial savings. This is primarily due to the compact size of some structural elements, which require significant financial costs. First of all, this concerns the roof, foundation and thermal insulation layers. Therefore, the price of two-story frame houses is quite affordable for most residents of the country.
4. Possibility of clear zoning of internal space. The layout of a two-story frame house allows you to create rooms for receiving guests and basic living on the first floor, and bedrooms on the second floor.
5. Beautiful and presentable appearance. With street lights on the facade, the frame structure will stand out from all other buildings on the street, attracting the attention of neighbors.

At the same time, it is important to understand not only why these buildings are worth erecting, but also how to build a two-story frame house so that it can be used for a long time for the benefit of the owner and his family.

Step-by-step instruction

In order to build a frame house, you must first create the appropriate step-by-step instructions. It includes a detailed description of all stages of work - from laying the foundation to the external finishing of the walls. If you follow this guide, you will ultimately be able to achieve the planned result, which is fully consistent with the chosen project.

Foundation

Two-story frame house designs imply the use of the most popular types of foundations. Among them it is worth paying attention to:

• Columnar;
• Pile-screw;
• Tape.

The most preferable for a frame house is a pile-screw foundation. This is due to the ease of its use, low financial costs, as well as the possibility of use on various types of soil. If the soil on the site is quite loose, then using piles is the best option to ensure the stability of the entire structure.

The main advantages of pile-screw foundations:

• There is no need to use special equipment;
• Operational installation – up to 24 hours;
• A large number of varieties of piles;
• Excellent load-bearing capacity;
• Carrying out all work at a low price, as well as purchasing materials;
• Possibility of installation at any time of the year.

The main disadvantage of a pile-screw foundation is the inability to organize a basement under the building. To begin work, it is necessary to properly prepare the selected area. In any case, the entire surface must be smooth and clear of vegetation.

Installation of piles in the corners should be carried out to a depth of about 0.5 m. The step between the elements should be small - from 0.7 to 1.2 m. To complete the creation of a foundation from piles, it is necessary to concrete the trunks and install the caps.

First floor frame

The process of the bottom strapping should be carried out from timber measuring 150x150, 200x250 or 200x200 m. Before laying the timber, their tops should be lubricated with mastic. It is necessary to place them on a double layer of roofing material, which will act as waterproofing. Additionally, the timber for strapping should be treated with an antiseptic.

On a note.

The timber must be installed on prepared piles around the perimeter. It must be fastened into a paw and using nails up to 120 mm long. Corners should be reinforced using metal corners or staples.

In the photo of two-story frame houses you can see that the installation of the power frame is quite simple. For this, boards of various sizes are used - 100x50, 150x50 and 200x50 mm.

Upper harness

The construction of a two-story frame house must be carried out in accordance with the recommendations of specialists, based on existing knowledge and experience. Having made the top frame of the lower floor, it is necessary to make a second top frame and thereby tie together the vertical posts.

To give the frame structure the proper level of strength, you need to additionally install diagonal jibs. They help prevent the entire two-story structure from loosening in the future.

Second floor frame

A frame two-story house 6 by 8 m is erected in almost the same way as all other buildings of this type. The design of the upper floor should almost exactly replicate the features of the first floor.

The racks of the frame house must be installed on the second upper frame in the same way as originally happened on the foundation. Between the elements it is necessary to provide jibs that will prevent the building from oscillating during gusts of wind. The framing before installing the roof is tied in the same way as between floors.

Roof installation

Turnkey two-story frame houses are made with various types of roofs. They can be flat, sloped, gable. If you do the work yourself, it is best to organize a gable roof. This is due to the simplicity of its design.

On a note.

The roof slope angle must be at least 25 degrees. It is best for the slope angle to be between 35 and 50 degrees. The number of slopes can be different - from 1 to 4.

Initially, it is worth installing the rafters, after which the sheathing is attached to them. The selected roofing material should already be fixed on the latter.

Wind protection

The design of a two-story frame house 6 by 8, 6 by 6 or 9 by 9 meters necessarily requires work aimed at protecting the house from various atmospheric phenomena. For this purpose, appropriate films are most often used, which are attached to the frame from the outside of the building using a construction stapler.

The main functions of wind protection are as follows:

1. Preventing moisture from entering the home.
2. Blocking the building's airflow in weak areas due to gusts of wind.
3. Ensuring free release of steam.

An appropriate film or membrane is first attached to the frame, on top of which external finishing can be organized.

Insulation

A two-story frame house 9 by 9, 8 by 8 or 6 by 6 meters must be properly insulated. This is due to the fact that in winter it will be cold and uncomfortable in a house without an appropriate layer.

It is necessary to lay insulation material between the frame posts. It is best to use mineral wool for this. The main thing is to place the insulation in such a way that there are no gaps anywhere that would allow cold air to penetrate into the house.

Finishing

The project of a frame two-story house 6x6, 8x8 or 9x9 involves the use of a wide variety of materials for exterior decoration. This applies to siding, imitation timber, stone. The procedure for performing this type of work is as follows:

1. Initially, you need to fix a sheathing made of bars measuring 40x50 mm on the frame. The fastening pitch should be about 590 mm. In addition, it will be possible to use metal profiles.
2. Before using the lathing on a building, it must be treated with antiseptic and fire-resistant substances.
3. Installation of the finishing coating is carried out in accordance with the type of material.

It is best to carry out finishing with environmentally friendly materials that allow you to create an unusual and attractive external image of the building.

House projects

A frame-panel house with an attic or terrace is the dream of many people. In order to build it, you need to focus on the designs of these structures available on the network. They allow you to create the most successful layout, providing for the correct design of the structure.

Frame house 6 by 6

A two-story frame house 6 by 6 is a building that is primarily suitable for the smallest plots. On the ground floor of such a building you can place an entrance hall and a common room with a kitchen. The last two rooms can be combined to expand the space.

On the top floor, the design of a two-story frame house 6 by 6 meters allows you to organize either one large bedroom or two small rooms for rest.

It is best to place the bathroom on the ground floor, allocating a small area for it. This can be done even under the stairs to the second floor, which allows you to significantly save free space, which a two-story frame house 6x6 meters cannot boast of.

Frame house 6 by 8

Two-story frame houses 6 by 8 meters are also very popular. They allow you to more rationally organize the space of the building. The main thing for this is to think about the correct layout. It should be based on the number of family members, as well as the purpose of the structure.

A frame two-story house 6x8 meters allows you to organize an attic, balconies and many other elements that will not only be a beautiful addition to the building, but also an important functional part of it.

Frame house 9 by 9

The project of a frame two-story house 9 by 9 meters is different in that it allows, in addition to the required rooms, to additionally allocate space for an office, dining room or guest room.

Frame houses 9 by 9 meters cannot be placed on too small plots, where an additional playground, vegetable garden or garden will be organized. That is why it is very important to correctly distribute the usable area in advance so that the garden area is convenient to use.

The situation when a large beautiful house grows on an empty plot of land in just a few months is probably familiar to many of us. No, it’s not about the financial capabilities of the owner of the building, but about the technology used. Using this technology, it is possible not only to significantly reduce construction time, but also to reduce the costs of purchasing materials and ordering special equipment.

On the wooden house-building market today, tens of thousands of proposals are available from development companies that specialize in the construction of frame houses using Canadian, Finnish and SIP technologies. Each of them guarantees high-quality turnkey work, a European level of service and an individual approach to each client. But is it possible to build, for example, a one-story DIY frame house? Answer: yes, it is possible! To do this, you will need a project and our step-by-step instructions for a general understanding of the construction process.

Project preparation

Design is the most important link in the investment process associated with the construction of a frame house. Through the implementation of this task, many technological, engineering, structural and architectural solutions are solved, which together determine the effectiveness of investments. Therefore, it is so important to entrust this part of the work to specialists and use the services of designers who will prepare a project for you for a fee.

What is usually included in the project? Typically, a frame house project includes two parts. This is the visual component and design of the building. The first part is mainly devoted to the visual display of the house and its facades from several sides, floor plans indicating the rooms, and the placement of window and door openings. The second part is a detailed design of the foundation and rafter system, roofing, drawings of walls, floor beams and ceilings. It also includes an estimate for the amount of materials, a design of all components in the structure, wall and floor cladding.

By having a detailed design, you can avoid the problems of including ineffective square footage, lots of trimming, and wasted money. Of course, you can create a frame house project with your own hands. But for this you will need, at a minimum, to study special literature on the design and construction of “frameworks”. And this takes time, a lot of effort and possible mistakes!

In our opinion, the importance of design cannot be overestimated. By saving on this part of the work, you risk incurring large costs. After all, an unsuccessful or incorrect project is not only a house that is far from ideal, but also a wasted investment!

Calculation and ordering of materials

As a rule, the calculation of building materials is the responsibility of the designer. But preliminary calculations can be done independently. If the drawings are already ready for a frame house (beam flooring, frame), then calculating the volume of materials is quite simple. For example, based on the drawings, you can find out how many meters of strapping and frame supports are required.

In the absence of special drawings, they proceed from the area of ​​the lower and upper floors, as well as the number of linear meters of walls. To determine the number of frame supports, the linear meters of walls are divided by 0.6. For strapping, the volume of material is calculated by multiplying the linear meters by 3. The same is done with the number of beams in meters: for this, the area of ​​the lower and upper floors is divided by 0.6 and added to the length of the strapping beams. However, it is recommended to check these indicators with the designer. Then the calculation will be more accurate.

Foundation structure: MZFL and pile-screw

Lightness of construction is one of the main differences between a frame house and a classic brick one, which affects the choice of foundation. The weight of the “framework” usually does not exceed 20 tons, this makes it possible to reduce the cost of the structure, not to deepen the foundation and not make it massive. Most often this is a MZFL (shallow strip foundation) for frame-panel houses or a pile-screw foundation for SIP houses designed according to.

1. A strip foundation is a concrete strip that runs under all the load-bearing walls of the house, both external and internal. Strengthening – reinforcement frame. This is the preferred option for a frame house, due to which the customer can afford to install a basement or ground floor. The secret of the popularity of MZLF also lies in the ease of construction with your own hands and the affordability of the price.

The main stages of installing a strip foundation include:

• Preparing the soil, followed by removing the fertile layer and leveling the surface;
• Creation of a sand-crushed stone cushion and installation of mortgages for laying communications;
• Installation of formwork and waterproofing, production of reinforcement frame;
• Pouring concrete mixture;
• Dismantling the formwork after the concrete has hardened and acquired strength.

A prerequisite for MZLF is the absence of a high groundwater level. Otherwise, the creation of an effective drainage system will be required.

2. costs the customer much less than MZLF, which is explained by the use of a fundamentally different approach, less expensive materials and simplified installation technology. You can get a high-quality and durable foundation for a frame house with your own hands in just one day, and it can be used immediately after installation.

Installation of a pile-screw foundation begins with a soil survey to indicate the depth of the load-bearing words and determine the required length and number of screw piles. The project is being finalized taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the designated length of the piles. Based on this, piles are purchased and delivered to the construction site. Installation of this type of foundation is carried out according to the plan of the pile field, regardless of the time of year.

Its advantage lies not only in the speed of installation, but also in the absence of harm to the landscape due to the absence of sand and crushed stone preparation and excavation. There are no traces of heavy special equipment, the usual mountains of construction waste and dirt. In addition, the use of screw piles helps create an air gap under the house, preventing the appearance of dampness in the room and retaining heat.

Floor construction

Building a floor in a frame house with your own hands is not much different from installing a floor in a brick house and can be made of wood or concrete. The choice may be influenced by the type of foundation, financial capabilities and preferences of the developer.

Let's take a closer look at installing a wooden floor with your own hands based on a pile-screw foundation.

The start of work is tying the foundation, which is carried out using timber 150x150 or 150x200, which depends on the distance between the piles and the thickness of the walls. The higher these indicators, the thicker the material should be. This is necessary to avoid cases of sagging, distribute the load, and give the foundation rigidity and reliability for the next stage of floor arrangement.

Schematically, the process of tying the foundation with your own hands can be divided into several stages:

1. Laying out timber around the perimeter, precise marking of walls, lining roofing felt under the trim;
2. Marking the joining points of the beams, taking into account the location of the piles;
3. Joining timber with an overlap of up to 30 cm using “locks” cut from the end;
4. Joining corners using a similar principle;
5. Preparing holes and fastening the timber to the foundation using studs and bolts, the protruding parts of which are recessed. At the joints, nails of suitable sizes are additionally used.

At the final stage, piping is carried out under the internal walls. In this case, the fastening of the beam goes to the already installed external one. Metal corners are additionally used for strengthening.

Construction of the floor frame

Logs are installed on top of the trim. For this, timber 100x150(200) or sewn boards 50x150(200) are used. This is a simple part of assembling a frame house with your own hands, but it requires observing certain points. This:

• Maintaining the distance between the logs taking into account the size of the insulation. For example, if the developer uses 100x60 mineral wool, its dense placement will require reducing the distance to 58 cm, i.e. several centimeters less than the width of the material itself;

• Installation of logs is carried out using fastening angles and nails. They do not go level with the harness, but are mounted on a smaller “matchbox” (5 cm). This is necessary so that in the future another board can be placed here and all the gaps around the perimeter will be closed;

A mandatory element is also a 50x150 (200) board between the joists, which is nailed in order to increase the rigidity of the structure.

Insulation and waterproofing of the floor

Perpendicular to the joists, a 100/150x25 board is attached joint to joint using self-tapping screws. Next, a waterproofing membrane is placed, and on top of it, between the joists, is insulation, up to 20 cm thick. All insulation joints must be overlapped.

The next layer is a vapor barrier, followed by an OSB board or tightly sewn boards (at the developer’s choice). Installation of vapor barrier, as well as waterproofing, is carried out with an overlap to prevent moisture from entering the insulation.

Wall construction

To install the walls of a frame house with your own hands, nails and mounting angles are used in the same way. It is also possible to use pins. For the frame of the walls, a 50x150/200 board is used, which is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the wall itself.

Ideally, the walls are assembled on a ready-made floor. The main thing is that the dimensions are accurate, otherwise the walls risk being longer or shorter than the floor. In order for you to understand what we are talking about, pay attention to what the wall of a frame house looks like in section.

First of all, you need to decide on the ceiling height of the future frame house. Let's assume that the rough ceiling will be 280 cm high. This means that the height of the vertical posts will be 265 cm (10 cm from the top frame of the walls and 5 cm from the floor level are not taken into account).

A distance of 60 cm is maintained between the posts. For cotton-based insulation, this figure can be reduced to 58 cm to ensure tighter contact. To simplify the process, the top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor, after which markings are applied where the vertical posts will be fastened with nails.

If the length of the wall exceeds that of the board, the wall is assembled in parts. This is also done in cases where the developer works alone, since the entire assembled wall has considerable weight. Studs are used for connection.

The next step is to install jumpers between the racks while preserving space for door and window openings. As a rule, these are two units per gap with the expectation that they will be used as an OSB board joint.

Important! In order not to make mistakes in the calculations and to make the wall of the required thickness, during the process of assembling the wall, you should take into account the thickness of the board used.

The final stage is the assembly of all the walls of the frame house with subsequent installation. They start by putting up one wall, which is strengthened with temporary supports. Here it is important to monitor the vertical angles, for which they use a plumb line or a long level. It is desirable, of course, that this be a plumb line, since the board cannot be perfectly flat.

All other walls rise one by one. Nails and studs are used for installation. Prefabricated walls (from several parts) are given special attention, making sure that the length of the bottom and top is the same. Instead of timber, the corners are filled with insulation. To strengthen the walls, use any thin board that is nailed diagonally. A cord that is pulled between two corners will help ensure that the walls are evenly positioned.

Upper harness

To strengthen the structure and securely adhere the corners, use the same board as for the walls, plus 120 mm nails. This will distribute the load between all parts of the frame walls. The strapping is carried out along the entire perimeter, including over the internal load-bearing walls. Here it is important to cover all the joints, leaving an overlap of 25 cm. For corners, the amount of overlap will be equal to the thickness of the walls.

Interior partitions

The installation of interior partitions is similar to the installation of external walls, with the caveat that the requirements for them regarding insulation and thickness are more relaxed. Therefore, they are installed in such a way that sound insulation is maintained.

The best assistant in this regard is insulation. Waterproofing and vapor barrier materials can be used as desired.

Do-it-yourself roofing installation for a frame house

Installation is in many ways similar to roof construction in other houses, but still surpasses them in ease of installation, which is explained by simplified fastening to the walls. This is a very important part of the work, especially when it comes to building a two-story frame house, but if you have a simple house layout and a “one-story” house, then you can easily cope with it alone and do everything with your own hands.

We will not delve into the description of all stages of roof installation here, since this is a very broad topic that requires a separate article, but we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for constructing a frame house, which describes in detail all stages of construction, including the arrangement of the roof.

Download the directory “Individual house “Platform”. Design and construction"

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house

One of the final stages of construction. Everything is insulated, including walls, floors and ceilings. When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house with your own hands, they proceed from the characteristics of the material and the characteristics of the wood itself, with which the insulation will combine well.

Key points on insulation:

• A special waterproofing membrane is stretched over the OSB boards. The side of application to the sheet is usually indicated in the instructions;
• The insulation is installed from the inside of the building, between the studs. The number of layers depends on the thickness of the wall and the requirements put forward for insulating a frame house with your own hands. To prevent the penetration of cold, an inlet is used;
• Floor insulation is carried out according to a similar scheme;
• The insulation of the ceiling is preceded by attaching a vapor barrier film to the ceiling beams and lining them with a board from below. It is recommended to start work from the attic;
• A vapor barrier film is placed on top of the insulation to create protection from moisture from the inside.

If necessary, sheathing in the form of OSB sheets can be applied over the film, after which the final finishing begins.

This concludes our step-by-step instructions for building a frame house. The Southern House company is ready to assist you in the construction of a frame house. For you this is: individual design, turnkey construction, installation of a terrace or canopy, laying any foundation, facade finishing, electrical work and installation of a drainage system.

If you have any questions related to receiving the project, the possibility of making adjustments to it, calculating the cost of the project and building a house, you can contact our company managers at the indicated telephone numbers. You can also leave a request by filling out a special form on our official website, after which our specialist will contact you to clarify the details.

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of building a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically frame house.

Step No. 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

Preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:

1. Site preparation
2. House marking

Site preparation

First, you need to clear the area of ​​vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the marking and allow you to make it more accurately.

If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will make your work much easier, and measurements in the grass may be subject to a large error.

House marking

Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depends on it. If the marking is inaccurate, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next stages.

Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls.

If you want to learn how to correctly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all the walls and corners are level and correspond to the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, it had to be submitted separately.

Step No. 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and it’s up to you to decide which one to choose.

Here I will tell you in a nutshell about suitable foundations for a frame house, and in what cases each of them is used, and also give links to their detailed description.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw foundation. This is practically the simplest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since installing a pile-screw foundation is not difficult even with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except rocky ones. Particularly suitable for swampy soils, where compact soils are located deep and other types require huge costs.

In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

Shallow strip foundations are also used quite often for construction. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires strict adherence to laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated in soils with very high groundwater levels and swampy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, slab foundations have become increasingly popular for building a frame house with your own hands. Despite its considerable cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not spend money on it separately.

Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step No. 3: Installing the floor of a frame house with your own hands

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step-by-step instructions, we will look in detail only at the wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything into one article.

Concrete floor installation

It is worth noting that a concrete floor in a frame house is installed in cases of a slab foundation or a strip foundation. With a slab, everything is clear - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is strip, the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor installation

Let's look at the construction of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For the tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, which can be made of thinner timber. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The installation of a wooden floor begins with tying the foundation. As a rule, the piping is made from timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the timber should be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.

In order to easily carry out the tying process with your own hands, we will divide it into several stages:

1. The timber is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, don’t forget about waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing felt.
   
2. The next step is to outline the joining points of the timber; they should be located on the pile, since these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
   
3. The timber is joined with an overlap of 20-30cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, so-called “locks” are cut out from the end.
   
4. The corners fit almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
   
5. The beam is attached to the foundation using bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes both in the head of the foundation and in the timber itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails measuring 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the timber.
   
6. Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the internal walls of the frame house. This beam, to the already installed external one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally use fastening metal corners.
   

When the piping of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next stage of our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage it is advisable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if you plan everything in advance, there will be much fewer problems later.

The next step is to install the joists on top of the trim. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use timber measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a 50x200mm or 50x150mm board, sewing them together in twos.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board measuring 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installation of logs is a simple stage in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that must be covered in these instructions:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house

It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while preventing moisture from entering the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself is laid tightly, without gaps.

So we have looked at the instructions for installing the floor of a frame house, now it’s time to start working on the walls.

Step No. 4: Construction of the walls of a frame house

Our next step instructions I will be installing the walls myself. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all the boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners; some fastenings can be made with studs.

It is worth noting that almost the entire frame is assembled from boards measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required insulation thickness.

Some people think that it would be better to install timber in the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and I’ll tell you why a little later, during the installation process.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for installing the walls of a frame house into several stages:

1. Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
2. Installation and fastening of walls vertically on site

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the already finished floor of the frame house; this is the most convenient option. But we must take into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions be accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already installed floor.

To make it clear what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house , and then I will tell you everything in order.

Now let’s look at step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with your own hands:

1. First of all, we need to decide on the ceiling height in the house. Let's assume that the height of the rough ceiling will be 280cm. This means that the vertical posts of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265cm. The diagram shows where the 15 cm came from.
   
2. The distance between the racks, as a rule, is selected based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is made less by 2 cm, for a tighter contact.
   
3. The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with 120-150mm nails. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
   
4. It is worth noting that each wall will be smaller in wall thickness than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible in the diagram.
   
5. If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the entire assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
   
6. As a rule, to add rigidity to the entire structure, jumpers are mounted between the racks. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they are installed one or two per space between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo; in the case when they are made one at a time, they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb boards, depending on further work.
   
7. Window and door openings in the wall of a frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
   
8. This is what it looks like “live”.
   

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board when calculating, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Putting the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Top trim and structural reinforcement

So, the frame of the walls has been assembled, now you need to make the top frame from the same board as the walls.

The top trim is necessary, first of all, for stronger adhesion of the corners, and will also give unity to all parts of the frame walls and distribute the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150mm nails over the walls, along the entire perimeter, including the internal load-bearing ones, so that all joints are covered with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for the corners, where the overlap will be equal to the thickness of the wall.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement using plywood or OSB board.

As a rule, having pierced one side along the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB boards, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The construction of internal partitions is almost no different from the construction of external walls, except that they have more lenient requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

1. Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort in terms of sound insulation.
2. The insulation inside the partitions will serve primarily as a sound-absorbing material rather than as thermal insulation.
3. Internal partitions can be insulated without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between internal walls and external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.

Step No. 5: Roof of a frame house

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof of other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I’ll even say more that installing a roof for a frame house will be less labor-intensive than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much simpler.

It is worth noting that building a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complex house layout, then you can easily do it yourself.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame one, is a very large topic with many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. Well, secondly, in order not to confuse you, I will probably move this topic to a separate article.

Step No. 6: Insulating the frame house

Now we have come to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - floor, walls and ceiling.

You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction; here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the insulation itself, but also the characteristics of wood, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a short instruction on how to insulate a frame house with your own hands:

1. Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side should be in the instructions for it.
2. From the inside of the house, between the studs, insulation is laid in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid overlapping the joint of the previous one to avoid cold bridges.
3. Floor insulation occurs in the same way.
4. It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic by first filling a vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with boards or plywood.
5. After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film over it; it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
6. Depending on the needs and further finishing work, sheathing material is placed on the walls on top of the film - boards or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, finishing is carried out.

As you have already seen, there was a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction were described in detail here DIY frame house, despite the fact that some points were included in separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.