How to soak the roots of seedlings before planting. Planting medicinal fruit trees in November. How to prepare planting holes

On any personal plot there will certainly be a corner where at least a small raspberry garden will be located. And perhaps many of you continue to grow raspberry varieties cultivated by our grandmothers, not realizing the latest breeding innovations and effective agricultural technology that can improve yields and unlock the potential of the berry!

New achievements in raspberry breeding

New raspberry varieties, to one degree or another, have winter, frost, heat and drought resistance, and also have low .
The branches of these varieties are often thornless, making them easier to care for and harvest.
The shoots, reaching an impressive thickness, maintain a vertical position without bending under the weight of the crop or rain.
Incredibly large-fruited with a fruit weight of up to 10 g and a productivity of about 4–5 kg per bush.
High commercial and taste qualities are expressed in the preservation of the berries on the bush after ripening until they are harvested and excellent transportability.

Types of garden raspberries

Selection gave us the opportunity to choose the best varieties from 3 main groups for our plots.

1. Regular (summer). It has a two-year growing cycle: in the first year the shoot grows, in the second it bears fruit.
The main care for this group of varieties is to tie the branches to the trellis in time in the spring and cut off the tops. As a rule, the stems of such raspberries grow quite tall, up to 2 m or more, and the top simply does not have time to ripen by autumn, as it freezes. Therefore, raspberries are cut to a height of 1.2 m, after which the formation of side shoots begins, on which the crop is formed.

2. Remontant raspberry- a group of raspberry varieties that differ in their ability to bear fruit on both biennial and annual shoots. Often grown as an annual crop for late summer and fall harvests. Remontant raspberry varieties bear fruit twice a season - in summer and autumn.

Remontant raspberry varieties bear fruit twice a season - in summer and autumn

It forms an average number of shoots (from 5 to 7) and, compared to the summer one, is less vigorous. Its bushes reach a height of 1 to 1.5 m, and many varieties do not even require a trellis. And one more feature of remontant raspberries: its berries are especially sweet and aromatic, and they are never wormy! This is explained by its biological cycle, which coincides with the biological cycle of pests. Usually the berries ripen in the second half of August - September. Fruit-bearing shoots are cut down to soil level in autumn or early spring.

Such a wide range of varieties with different ripening periods gives us a real opportunity to feast on raspberry berries all season long, combining super-early, middle, late and remontant varieties in our raspberry garden.

remontant variety Brusnyava

semi-remontant variety Yellow Giant

mid-early Phoenix variety

Rules of agricultural technology

The lifespan of a raspberry bush is about 8–10 years. Sunny areas protected from the winds are allocated for it.

Place and soil. You should choose medium-loamy, light soils with groundwater levels no higher than 1.5 m. The soils themselves must be nutritious and have acidity levels within the pH range of 5.8–6.7. Before planting, the soil is generously amended with organic and mineral fertilizers in a dose of 10 kg of manure or compost or a liter jar of wood ash per 1 m2. Mineral fertilizers are applied in early spring to frozen soil. Raspberries are sensitive to chlorine, so it is best to avoid it in fertilizers.

Preparing seedlings for planting. For better rooting, before planting, you can soak the seedlings for one to two hours in a solution of humates, Heteroauxin, Kornevin or other rooting agents. To prevent root rotting, you can add a systemic fungicide (Quadris, Srok, Ridomil, Flint) to the rooting solution.

Landing. Raspberry seedlings take root well under... Raspberries are often planted in furrows or trenches, which allows for better moisture retention. The depth of the trench should be from 30 to 40 cm, width – 50–60 cm. The trench is filled with humus or compost with a layer of up to 10 cm. If you plan to plant several rows of raspberries, then the trenches must be dug with row spacing of 1.7–2 m. This will provide enough space for feeding roots and make harvesting easier.

Raspberries are often planted in furrows or trenches, which allows for better moisture retention.

The root collar of a raspberry seedling should be at ground level. Large depths should not be allowed, as this leads to slow development or death of the plant. Shallow planting, which leads to drying out of the root buds, is also unacceptable. Raspberries do not tolerate flooding of the root system. In soils that are too wet and where groundwater is close, raspberries are planted in raised beds, and drainage must be provided for water that accumulates in the furrows.

Watering. After planting is completed, use half to a full bucket on the bush to properly moisten the soil. For better survival, plant roots should be in close contact with the soil. Post-planting charging watering is needed even if the soil is wet.

mulching a seedling

spring pruning of tops by 15-20 cm

Growing methods

Raspberries can be grown in several ways: row, nest and on a trellis.

Ordinary method. Long used and showing excellent results is strip planting of seedlings with a distance between plants of 0.5 m, and between rows of 1.5–1.8 m. In the first two years after planting, a strip of young shoots 30 cm wide is formed. All that sprouts beyond the agreed boundaries and is mercilessly cut out at the root.

On the trellis. For tall varieties prone to lodging, the “Scottish” trellis growing method has been developed. This method makes it possible to obtain a more uniform, larger and more abundant harvest due to improved access of lighting to the fruits. The trellis is installed in the second year after planting raspberries.

The trellis is installed in the second year after planting raspberries.

It consists of two-meter pillars installed at a distance of 5–10 m from each other. Galvanized or aluminum wire is pulled onto the poles. The first is stretched at a height of 0.8–1 m, and the second at 1.5 m from the surface of the earth. Seedlings are planted every 0.7 m, two in one planting hole.

Nesting method planting not only produces a high-quality harvest, but also serves. To do this, seedlings are planted along the boundaries of a 0.8 m circle, and a strong stake is driven into the center. When the shoots grow, they are tied at a height of 1.2–1.5 m, thus forming a green sheaf. Several such sheaves along the path, in a group in the garden or in the vegetable garden will become an original decoration, especially during fruiting.

first frosts. Spring pruning of the tops of shoots by 15–20 cm also contributes to an increase in productivity and berry size.

productive raspberry varieties can produce 4-5 kg of berries per bush

When growing raspberries on your plots, you will always have the most on hand, since the berries contain a lot of salicylic acid. And of course, the list of vitamins and nutrients in the “bear berry” deserves a separate article, which I will definitely write closer to summer, when the raspberries begin to ripen. In the meantime, purchase seedlings of promising raspberry varieties, thereby providing yourself with a stable harvest, which should definitely be enough to make jam and to enjoy.

For lovers and admirers of roses, autumn is the time to replenish your flower beds with new varieties of the queen of flowers. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, in the fall, all rose nurseries tidy up their fields and send plants with an open root system to cool rooms for the winter. If you order bare-root rose seedlings now, you will receive them fresh, straight from the field. Overwintering roses with an open root system in a cool room does not have a positive effect on their quality.

The second significant argument in favor is the presence of plants. As a rule, rose seedlings are quickly sold out and by spring nurseries are left with a small selection of both new varieties and favorite varieties.

Thirdly, roses planted in the fall take root much more successfully than specimens planted in the spring. But what about the first autumn frosts, which can damage young plants? - You ask. If planting is done professionally, then your flowering shrubs will not be afraid of any frost. Read on to learn how this is done.

Soaking rose seedlings before planting

Bare-rooted seedlings are soaked in water for several hours before planting to ensure they are saturated with moisture. The plant must be completely immersed in water, including the grafting site. The place is the thickened part of the bush, located between the stem and the root.

Basically, the following rule applies: the later you plant rose seedlings, the longer you should keep them in water, that is, in the spring - for 24 hours, in the fall, eight hours is enough. It is also recommended to keep container and potted roses in water - these are seedlings with a closed root system - so that the substrate is completely saturated. To do this, they, together with the container, are lowered into a bucket of water and kept there until bubbles stop appearing.

Pruning roots and shoots

After the rose seedlings have soaked, they must be trimmed, leaving stems 20 cm long. This is done to reduce the area of evaporation after the leaves open. The main thing is that there are at least five buds left on each shoot. Damaged and dead parts of the roots are also removed, and it is recommended to shorten the old roots a little to stimulate the growth of new roots. The remaining fine roots are not removed.

Container roses do not have their roots trimmed. But it happens that roses with a closed root system in containers have a lot of damaged, bent roots, which need to be removed. In addition, remove any broken, diseased or too long shoots.

Determining planting depth

When choosing a site for planting, you should make sure that roses have not grown there before. Otherwise, the soil may become depleted and the rose bushes will not grow properly.

Rose bushes have long and strong roots. Therefore, a planting hole with a diameter of approximately 40 cm is made so deep that the roots in it do not bend, but are located freely. The grafting site should be buried five centimeters. This will help protect the most vulnerable area from rips caused by the winter sun. Before filling the planting hole, the excavated soil is mixed with mature compost or a handful of horn shavings. Having filled the hole, the earth around the seedling is lightly compacted and trampled down to fill all the voids.

Abundant watering of planted roses

After planting the seedling and compacting the soil around it, it is necessary to pour an earthen border, the task of which is to keep water from spreading in different directions during watering. Abundant watering provides the roots with the necessary contact with the soil. With the onset of spring, make sure that the soil around the bush does not dry out. Roses don't like this. In early summer, the earthen side can already be leveled.

Hilling roses

The last stage of planting roses is their hilling. This is important for both autumn and spring planting to protect the plant from upcoming frosts and winds. To do this, the bushes are covered with earth to a height of approximately 15 cm. When planting in autumn, the earthen mound is left until spring and then it is leveled. If you plant roses in the spring, it will be enough to leave a mound of soil at the base of the bush for a couple of weeks, namely until the buds of the rose begin to open.

Ideal combinations

When planting roses, you need to think through composition options in advance. Many gardeners believe that the rose itself is beautiful and does not need companion plants. However, mixed plantings of roses with other plants look quite impressive. Properly selected annuals and perennials can favorably emphasize the beauty and individuality of the queen of flowers. An indispensable condition for the successful growth and development of rose compositions is the selection of plants with similar requirements for soil, moisture and lighting as companions. In addition, companion plants should not be too bright. After all, what queen would tolerate competition? This also applies to the royal family of the plant world.

Yellow coreopsis makes a bright contrast to the dark pink lush flowers of the bush rose "Rosarium Uetersen"

Thus, there are clear requirements for rose companions: they should prefer a sunny, but not hot and well-ventilated location. The soil should be rich in humus and nutrients. True “gentlemen” of a rose should not exceed the height of their “queen”. Therefore, tall shrubs (spirea) are planted at a respectful distance from roses. Contrasting growth forms of perennials emphasize the splendor of rose flowers and hide its less attractive shoots at the base.

An excellent combination of ground cover rose “The Fairy” of raspberry color and sedum with bright pink flower caps.

A composition in which the colors of the leaves and flowers of perennials are in harmony with roses looks impressive. Blue-blue plants go well with roses in color. Since this range is not included in the color palette of roses, it goes well with almost any color of roses.

Red roses and blue sage are a stunning sight!

A touch of originality is added by the contrast of vertical inflorescences of perennials and rounded rose flowers. The combination of roses and lavender is considered classic. This Mediterranean perennial is credited with the ability to repel grass lice from roses thanks to its essential oils.

Floribunda roses and short shrub roses pair well with many hardy, fast-growing perennials. For example, catnip, mantle, plantarium, low peonies or decorative onions, located at the “feet” of the queen, complement and highlight her beauty. All these plants bloom at the same time as roses, are winter-hardy and do not lose their abundance of flowering for many years. The main thing is to provide each plant with enough space to develop.

If you are a fan of contrasts, create a composition of roses with cereal herbs that retain their decorative effect even in winter. A beautiful background for roses will be created by acuminate flowers (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) with gracefully curved leaves of a dark green color or diamond grass (Achnatherum brachytrichum) with delicate openwork inflorescences, in which dew drops shimmer like diamonds in the morning.

Miscanthus, switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) or foxtail pennisetum form a spectacular entourage of blooming roses in autumn.

Translation: Lesya V.
especially for the Internet portal
garden center "Your Garden"

Before planting in the ground, the seeds of many crops require preliminary preparation: disinfection and stratification. Without this, they will not sprout or will sprout slowly. Soaking seeds before planting seedlings awakens them from hibernation and forces them to grow. The germination of vegetable crops and flowers increases, the risk of diseases and weak plants decreases. Use prepared water: settled tap water, rain water or melt water.

Why are seeds soaked?

When planting dry material, there is a risk that before the growth process begins, fungi can enter the soil and infect the tender shoots. Or the lack of moisture will kill weak plants that have begun to hatch. Using swollen seeds that are ready to sprout soon, you get strong, healthy seedlings.

The water for soaking can be any, but melted water is ideal. In a city apartment, you can freeze regular tap water. To do this, tap water is filled into 1.5-liter bottles. Leave for 10 hours and put in the freezer. Select the moment when ⅔ of the volume is frozen. The remaining liquid is drained - chemicals and salts that are harmful to plants have been deposited in it.

The ice is taken out and thawed - the water for soaking is ready. The most suitable dishware is shallow but wide. The seeds, wrapped in a piece of cloth, are placed on a plate. Pour warm water and put it in a dark place. The material should not dry out. Many gardeners cover their dishes with plastic wrap. In this case, the moisture remains for a long time. Soaking is carried out after disinfection.

Disinfection and stimulation

Pathogenic microorganisms may be present on the seed coat. After treatment with a disinfectant solution, the risk of infection is reduced. Disinfection can be carried out with hydrogen peroxide or a solution of potassium permanganate.

Soaking in potassium permanganate is carried out as follows:

The seeds are wrapped in a piece of fabric of a suitable size (or a small bag is sewn).
Place potassium permanganate on the tip of a knife in warm water to create a bright pink solution. If there is oversaturation, it is diluted so as not to burn the seeds.
The tissue is placed in a manganese solution for 15–20 minutes.
Take out the seeds and wash them with clean water.

Soaking in hydrogen peroxide is carried out similarly. Bags of seeds are dipped in peroxide for 20 minutes, after which the planting material is washed and slightly dried.

Features of the procedure for individual crops

Before sowing, pumpkin seeds, as well as beets and eggplants, are soaked. In water, their hard shell softens.

The essential oil contained in dill, carrots, celery and parsley makes germination difficult. If these seeds are soaked in water, some of the essential oil will evaporate and they will germinate more easily.

The timing of soaking seeds before planting is different for all plants. For tomatoes - 18 hours, dill and carrots - up to 48 hours. You also can’t overexpose it, as rotting may begin or the awakened seeds may suffocate. The water is changed periodically. Its temperature should be room temperature, but not lower than 18 degrees.

Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, melons

These crops begin to prepare for planting in 1–2 days. The seed material is inspected and sorted, discarding empty, small and unripe grains. Biostimulants must be added to the water. Soak for 12 hours. During this time, the seeds swell and some germinate.

Tomatoes, eggplants, peppers

They work separately with nightshade crops. These plants can be immediately planted in boxes with soil, and when shoots appear, planted in separate containers. But this method is not always effective. The seedlings turn out weak and do not grow for a long time. It is necessary to soak the pepper seeds. Treating them before sowing guarantees good germination and rapid growth.

Seed material is prepared as follows: Seeds are immersed in salt water (a teaspoon of salt per glass of water) for 5 minutes. The good ones go to the bottom, and the empty ones float up. After checking, the seeds are washed in water and laid out to dry. To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, disinfection is carried out in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After this, the seed is washed in running water. To speed up germination, the grains are placed on a damp cloth and covered. Keep at home in a warm place, not allowing it to dry out.

Flowers

Most flower crops have small grains and not always germinate. By treating them before sowing, they not only increase germination, but also enrich them with useful microelements and disinfect them, subsequently obtaining strong and healthy seedlings.

Let's look at how to soak seeds for planting. Flower crops have their own rules:

pelleted and granulated seed material has already been processed and does not require soaking;
when soaking small seeds, you must be prepared for the fact that they may stick together and be difficult to plant in the ground;
large seeds are pickled in a manganese solution and a growth stimulator;
For flowers it is convenient to use a damp cotton pad.

Ready-made biological solutions

There are several different biogrowth stimulants on the market. "Epin". This product is made from plants. Soaking seeds in Epin increases their resistance to adverse conditions. Plants react less to poor lighting and recover faster after frost. "Zircon". The product is based on chicoric acid contained in echinacea. It stimulates the growth of seedlings.

Gumat. Preparation with salts of humic acid. It contains many useful microelements that help plants grow.

Homemade solutions

You can prepare a growth stimulant yourself. There are several folk recipes for soaking seeds in for germination:

Aloe juice. This is a popular method among gardeners. Aloe accelerates growth and increases the resistance of seedlings to diseases. The leaves are cut from the bottom of the plant, wrapped in cloth and placed in the refrigerator for 2 weeks. Then the juice is squeezed out of them (necessarily by hand, without a meat grinder or juicer). Dilute the juice with water 1:1 and soak the seeds in it for 18 hours.

Wood ash. Pour water into a liter jar, add 2 tablespoons of sifted ash and mix. Leave for 2 days and use as directed.

Honey. Add a teaspoon of honey to 250 ml of water. The seed is kept in the solution for 5–6 hours.

Mushroom broth. Mushrooms contain many microelements useful for plant growth. Dry mushrooms are poured with boiling water, tightly closed and kept until cool. The bag of seeds is immersed in a chilled broth for 6 hours.

Potato. Several potato tubers are peeled and frozen. Then they take it out and wait for complete thawing, squeeze out the juice and use it as a growth stimulator.

Complex disinfecting stimulator. Make a solution with wood ash. Separately, brew dry onion peels and mix the two solutions together in a 1:1 ratio. Add 5 g of soda, 1 g of potassium permanganate and 0.2 g of boric acid. Mix everything well and use it for pre-sowing treatment.

Vodka. Some summer residents soak seeds in vodka. This is especially effective for dill and parsley. It is enough to keep the seeds there for 15–20 minutes.

Toilet paper. This new method for preparing for sowing is becoming popular. Paper contains a polysaccharide - cellulose. It is a fertilizer for plants and works as a growth stimulator. After wrapping the seeds in toilet paper, place the twisted tube in a glass of water. The paper absorbs it well and remains constantly moist. The seedlings germinate quickly and develop a strong root system.

Before using the solutions, keep the seeds in clean water for about an hour. After treating the seed with a biostimulant, it is washed again with running water. Now you can plant in the ground.

FAQ

What gardeners ask most often?

Question: Is it necessary to soak the seeds before planting? Answer: The procedure reduces the risk of being left without seedlings.

Question: How to properly soak cucumber, tomato and pepper seeds for seedlings, how much water do you need and at what temperature?

Answer: Take warm water, about 30°C, clean, the presence of impurities is undesirable. There shouldn't be too much water. For most vegetable seeds the ratio to water is 1:1.

Question: How long should I soak the seeds?

Answer: The time depends on the type of plant. Large, heavy grains with a hard shell are soaked for a day. For smaller ones, a few hours are enough.

Question: Should I soak flower seeds before planting? Answer: Sowing such seeds guarantees early germination of healthy plants. By soaking the seeds before planting seedlings, taking into account the advice of experts, you can get a high yield.

22.03.2013 19:15

The optimal time for planting seedlings in central Russia: in the spring - from the moment the soil freezes until the buds begin to open. Usually from April 1-10 to May 1.

In autumn, we recommend planting from October 1 to October 20. If you did not have time to plant the seedlings before October 20, then they need to be buried for the winter and planted in a permanent place next spring, as soon as the soil thaws. But at the same time, try to prepare the planting holes in the fall.

Landing location

Fruit trees should not be placed in low areas with excessive soil moisture. Prolonged and frequent waterlogging of the soil in the root zone causes plant death. When planting trees in the garden, it is necessary to take into account the groundwater level in the area. If groundwater is located at a distance of 1 m from ground level, it is necessary to refrain from planting all fruit trees.

Cherry and apricot and sweet cherry They are demanding of heat, but tolerate a lack of moisture; they are placed on the highest and most well-warmed part of the site.

Apple and pear trees They also grow better in higher areas of the site.

Plums they are more moisture-loving, and if there is a slope, it is better to place them in its lower part, since they grow and bear fruit poorly on poor and dry soils.

Preparing seedlings for planting

1. Pruning seedlings(except for seedlings in a container). For better survival of seedlings, before planting it is necessary to prune the above-ground part. The fact is that when digging seedlings from the nursery, some of the roots are necessarily damaged and remain in the soil, but the above-ground part is completely preserved. As a result, the balance between the root system and the above-ground part is disrupted. This negatively affects the growth of the tree, especially in the first year. To restore the disturbed balance, seedlings are pruned. Annual seedlings, which are one stem, are cut to approximately 1/3 of the length. For two-year-old seedlings, not only the top of the trunk is cut by 1/3, but all the side branches are also cut by no less than 1/3 of their length.

2. Before boarding(except for seedlings in containers), remove the roots of the seedlings from the packaging bag, shake out the sawdust (peat) and soak for 3 - 6 hours in a solution of root formation stimulator "Kornevin", or in a weak solution of complex mineral fertilizer 10 g per 10 liters of water.

Landing

apple, pear, plum trees 3.5-4 x 2.5-3m; apricot and cherry.3.5-4 x 3-4m; cherries 2-2.5 x 1.5-2m. For planting, they dig holes with a diameter of 100-150cm for apple, pear, plum, apricot and 60-80cm for cherries. The depth of the holes is determined by the thickness of the fertile soil layer, that is, do not dig deeper than the fertile layer, especially if there is clay (on thin soils with a close clay horizon, in most cases this will be 30-35 cm). In no case go deeper into the clay.

When digging a hole, it is recommended to divide the excavated soil into two parts. The first is the top layer of soil, it is more fertile, and the second is the lower layer, less fertile. When planting, pour more fertile (upper) soil on the bottom of the hole, and less fertile (lower) soil on top.

A stake is driven into the center of the hole. The soil from the pit is mixed with fertilizers (250-500g of superphosphate, 500g of ash, 500g of fluff lime, or dolomite flour. 2-3 buckets of humus) and sprinkled on the bottom with a mound. Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied to planting holes. A seedling is placed on the top of the mound, the roots of which are carefully spread in all directions along the slopes of the mound and covered with well-crushed, fertilized soil until the planting hole is completely filled. As the backfill proceeds, the tree is lightly shaken to fill the voids between the roots, and then the soil is compacted with a foot.

For seedlings in containers: The seedling is removed from the container, the lump is carefully torn and the twisted roots are straightened to the sides. There is no need to be afraid if 5-10% of the roots around the perimeter of the coma break off. On the contrary, it contributes to better survival of the plant. Subsequently, the lump is placed in a hole, and the remaining empty space is covered with waterlogged soil, so that good contact is obtained between the lump and the ground.

Make a hole around the planted plant for watering and pour out several buckets of water. Water promotes soil sedimentation, so watering should be done even in wet weather. It is necessary that the plant is practically in the dirt, then compact the soil around the plant well. The root collar (the transition point between the trunk and the root) after the soil settles should be at the same level as the soil surface.

Planting trees without planting holes

Thus, in areas with a thin fertile layer, as well as in places with high groundwater levels, it is recommended not to dig holes when planting. At the same time, a stake is driven in at the planting site, around which fertilizers are scattered within a radius of up to 1 m (250 - 500 g of superphosphate, 500 g of ash, 500 g of fluff lime or dolomite, 2-3 buckets of humus) and mix them well by digging up the soil. Then a mound of fertilized soil is poured near the stake. The roots of the seedling are placed on a mound, distributed in all directions and covered first with fertilized soil and then with ordinary soil. More soil is poured around the seedling and a watering hole is made from it so as not to expose the root system, after which it is watered. When the water is absorbed, the hole is destroyed and covered with earth on top.

Care after landing

The planted tree is tied to a stake. It is necessary to ensure that it does not rub against the stake or that the garter rope does not grow into it. Labels also need to be removed, as they attract bipedal pests. After planting, repeated watering is necessary, and it is better to water rarely, but abundantly. To prevent the water from spreading, make a hole with each regular watering. After watering, the soil is mulched with manure, peat or compost, placing them in a layer of about 10 cm. If wild growth appears below the grafting, it must be removed; if this is not done, it can overtake the seedling in growth and will suppress its development. Practice often shows that after severe freezing of the above-ground part, wild shoots grow most actively. Very often, literally a few days after the first leaves bloom on a seedling, all kinds of pests, weevils, aphids, and caterpillars begin to gnaw them. In mid-August, fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (30g per 1m2) so that the tops of the shoots ripen well and the trees overwinter better. In October, in order to protect the trunk and skeletal branches of a young tree from sunburn and wind drying, they are wrapped in any material except plastic film. It is necessary to take care of protection from mice and hares. These are enemies of the garden. They will harm until the plants become fully grown, 12-15 years old. In general, practice shows that young fruit plants gain strength and winter hardiness during the first three to four years. It would be better if you cover them more thoroughly. A few words should be said about planting fruit trees on clonal (dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstock).

Such plants are an obvious progress of science; they begin to bear fruit earlier than ordinary plants, bear fruit more abundantly, and the fruits are larger and tastier. But along with the advantages, they also have disadvantages. Plants on such a rootstock require more fertile soils and regular watering. It is imperative to take care of support, otherwise the plant may skew or even fall. In some cases, clonal rootstocks are less winter-hardy than ordinary seedlings, and this requires additional mulching of the tree trunk circle. It should also be noted that dwarf plants require smaller planting holes than plants on seedling rootstocks; MINERAL FERTILIZER RATES ARE ALSO REDUCED BY TWO-THREE TIMES. BUT THE NUMBER OF ORGANIC SHOULD BE INCREASED. It is also necessary to make adjustments to the density of plants on your site. For example, columnar apple trees on a dwarf rootstock can be planted at a distance of 0.4 meters. Thus, the gardener must first figure out what kind of seedling he purchased and what his requirements are.

Most garden plants can be planted in both spring and autumn; gardeners usually prefer autumn planting, but in central Russia with fairly early and severe winters, autumn planting of seedlings will lead to freezing of the plants.

Therefore, for middle latitudes, spring planting of seedlings is more justified. But it must be carried out strictly before the buds open.

Preparatory work in the garden

Holes for planting need to be prepared in the fall. This is especially important for dense soils - clayey and loamy, where serious soil replacement is required. The rule is simple: for autumn planting of seedlings, pits are prepared in the spring, for spring ones - in the fall. The prepared pit should stand for 6-7 months.

Why dig a hole for seedlings in advance?

If you plant trees or shrubs in a hole freshly dug in spring, the earth will gradually settle and pull the seedlings along with it, they will end up below the level of the site, i.e. in the hole. This means that puddles of water will accumulate, melt water will stand, and snow melting will be delayed. If you dig a hole, there is a risk of deepening the root collar, but it should only be covered with a thin layer of soil (1-2 cm).

Trees that are too deep when planted are stunted, develop slowly and bear fruit worse. A planting mistake needs to be corrected (lifting the plant out of the ground) to save the seedling, but this is a very labor-intensive job, so just try to avoid incorrect planting.

How to dig holes for planting seedlings

The depth and diameter of the hole for planting seedlings depends on the crop:

For pears and apple trees 60-70 cm deep, 80-90 cm in diameter
Plums and cherries - 40 cm deep, 70-80 cm in diameter
Currants, honeysuckle and gooseberries - 35-40 cm deep, 60 cm in diameter
Sea buckthorn, serviceberry - 40 cm deep, 80 cm in diameter
Raspberries - 30-40 cm deep, 50 cm in diameter

Distance between future trees: for apple, pear, cherry plum, cherry, cherry - 5 m.

The technique of digging a hole and then filling it with earth is also special. For fruit trees, the holes are dug quite deep, and the soil removed is heterogeneous. The excavated soil conventionally has two fractions - the arable layer - approximately 20 cm of the top soil (half the bayonet of a shovel) and the subsurface layer - the one that is deeper than the top 20 cm.

When digging a hole for seedlings, throw the soil into two different piles - one for the arable layer, and the other for the lower horizon. Then partly scatter the lower, infertile soil evenly over the site, partly make a tree-trunk circle out of it, or immediately load it into a wheelbarrow to take it outside the garden. The walls of the pit must be vertical!

Preparing a hole in an abandoned area

If fruit planting is carried out in an abandoned area overgrown with turf, the scheme is different: you need to remove a layer of turf (10-15 cm depending on the herbs) and put it aside, then remove the fertile layer under the turf (another 15-20 cm) and put it in a separate a bunch. Then dig up all the soil below to the required depth (about the size of a spade) and place it in a garden cart.

At the dug hole, we level the walls (vertically, like in a well) and put the turf on the bottom of the hole, turning the layers over with the grass facing down.

Refueling the pit

The dug hole must be filled; it cannot be left empty until spring, otherwise melt water will remain in it for a long time, and the hole will become unsuitable for spring planting - by the time the water goes away, all planting dates will expire.

Therefore, we fill the pit in the fall. For this you will need:

1-2 buckets of well-rotted manure (aged 3 years)
1-2 buckets of leaf humus (either peat or fertile soil from other plantings on the site)
approximately 100-200 g of ash per 1 sq. m of soil (1-2 faceted glasses)
fertile soil removed from a hole

We pour all the components into the pit in parts: a third of each in three additions, and mix with a shovel. After each layer you need to trample the ground with your feet. The total volume of filling for the pit should be in such quantity that a mound approximately 20 cm high is formed in place of the pit.

Humus (rotted manure) is ideally horse manure; it is ideally suited for fertilizing; mullein comes in second place. Bird droppings are completely unsuitable for seedlings. Manure must not be used fresh; it must sit well for at least two years, preferably three.

Applying fertilizers when planting seedlings

Whether or not to add mineral fertilizers to the hole when planting seedlings is a controversial issue. The root system of seedlings is severely damaged during digging and reacts sensitively to contact with fertilizers; young growing roots are burned and die. Instead of growing the root system, the plant freezes in growth or dies.

Plant roots are especially sensitive to nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. The only way to avoid root burn is to introduce them at some distance from the root ball of the seedling.

But this is impractical due to the fact that mineral fertilizers do not have time to wait until the established roots grow to them and absorb them painlessly - they dissolve in water and are washed into the lower layers of the soil much earlier.

Phosphorus fertilizers could have a somewhat milder effect on the roots if they contained phosphorus in its pure form. However, simple or double superphosphate, in addition to phosphorus ions, contain impurities that are far from harmless to the roots, especially young ones and those injured by transplantation. Therefore, it is also permissible to add phosphorus fertilizers when planting only at some distance from the root ball of the seedlings.

Traditional agronomy taught us to apply fertilizers when planting seedlings in the following way: mix nitrogen fertilizers (rotted manure, compost), necessary for good growth of seedlings, with soil to fill the hole (with the fertile layer removed). Mix phosphorus and potassium fertilizers with a small amount of soil (scoop of a shovel) and pour into the bottom of the hole. Do not add mineral fertilizers to the soil of the upper half of the hole, where the plant’s root system will be located.

Such a system helps to avoid burning the roots, but there is a possibility that by the time the root system recovers, grows and reaches the layer of soil with embedded fertilizers, the nutrients from it will be washed out or intercepted by the grass roots.

From the point of view of modern agronomy, there is no need to apply any mineral fertilizers to the hole when planting seedlings. Serious damage to young trees or shrubs can be caused, including the death of the plant.

How to speed up the growth of seedlings

After planting, it is especially important to achieve the development of a good root system of fruit crops. Therefore, fertilizing should be safe - use weak solutions of liquid organic fertilizers (mullein, green fertilizer), but not immediately after planting, but approximately in the second or third year after planting.

The need for mineral fertilizers increases much later, when plants reach fruiting age.

If you are going to plant a garden on poor soils, then you should stock up on several carts of imported fertile soil in advance. Do not use the lower, nutrient-poor layer of soil when digging a hole.

If the planting hole is filled with fertile soil, then there is no need for additional filling with fertilizers.

Planting seedlings

First of all, we plant winter grafted seedlings that were stored in a cold basement or rootstocks dug in before winter.

Carry out an audit: inspect the root system of the plants, remove rotten roots to healthy tissue (it is light in color). Make the cuts in a straight line, without sawing, with a very sharp knife - the smoother the cut, the faster callus forms. If the seedlings have cuts or breaks on thick roots, sprinkle them with crushed coal.

If you have purchased seedlings whose root system is covered with clay mash, you need to wash the roots off it!

To plant, in an area prepared in the fall and filled with nutrient soil, we dig a hole, but not over the entire area where we dug the hole in the fall, but much smaller - the hole should be sufficient to freely accommodate the root system of the seedling, but no more. The depth is such that the root collar of a seedling placed in a hole is at ground level. Do not allow it to go deeper than even 5-7 cm.

The root collar of a seedling is the place where the first roots emerge from the trunk. Not to be confused with the grafting site - it is approximately 10-15 cm above the root collar.

To plant a seedling at the correct depth, use a level - a long stick placed across the hole so that the ends rest on the level surface of the ground around the hole.

It is better to plant seedlings together, so that one person holds the tree by the trunk, maintaining its even vertical position, and the second person buries it. If the seedling has a lot of roots, when filling it with soil, you need to lightly shake the trunk so that the soil is well distributed into the voids between the roots.

Do not compact the soil around the planting site too hard. Just water the soil; when the soil settles, add more. During the first two weeks, the soil will be covered, and if necessary, you need to hill up again if the root collar is exposed.

After digging in the seedling, you need to form a tree trunk circle or “saucer” around it for watering. About 50-60 cm in diameter, 7-10 cm in height. Be sure to secure the trunk of the seedling - stick a wooden peg into the ground next to the trunk. It is important to sharpen its lower end so that it does not tear the roots of the tree, but easily passes between them. Tie the trunk to the support using jute or a piece of nylon tights. Do not use wire or fishing line for garter!

If you plan to use not a thin peg, but a large pole as a support, you need to sharpen its end and drive the pole in before planting the seedling!

After planting, it is necessary to water the plant abundantly; the earthen circle near the trunk will prevent water from spreading over the area. Watering is necessary in any weather and soil moisture. After watering, the earth becomes heavier, settles and compacts naturally. How much water to pour: a full bucket, but not at once, but in two or three doses.

When planting winter-grafted seedlings, a month after planting you need to remove the film wrap.

If you didn’t have time to prepare the planting holes in the fall

What to do in this case? You can plant cultivated shrubs and trees, but you will have to limit yourself not to wide holes filled with prepared soil, but to small holes the size of the root system of seedlings. But later it will be necessary to cultivate the soil around the plantings, the mechanism of which will depend on the type of soil.

Without preliminary preparation of the pit, fruit and berry bushes and trees are planted only on soils with close groundwater. In this case, the hole is dug shallow - just enough to fit a shovel, but nutritious soil is poured not only into the hole, but also on top with a high mound. The mound should be at least 40-50 cm in height and about 100 cm in diameter. In this case, it is necessary to form a watering “saucer”.

If the groundwater runs deep and there is no need to lift the seedling onto a mound, then without prior preparation you can carry out the technique of planting seedlings followed by mulching. A shallow hole is dug, on the bayonet of a shovel. Then, around a seedling with a diameter of one and a half meters, 3 buckets of old humus are distributed in an even layer, and digging is carried out. We water the soil and mulch it with a thick layer of straw or peat (height 5-7 cm).

In any case, remember that the root collar of the seedling cannot be buried, and young plants require abundant watering.