home · Other · Charger on the chip tp4056. Charger on a chip tp4056 Tr 4056 with double protection connection diagram

Charger on the chip tp4056. Charger on a chip tp4056 Tr 4056 with double protection connection diagram

It is difficult to evaluate the characteristics of a particular charger without understanding how the exemplary charge of a li-ion battery should actually flow. Therefore, before proceeding directly to the circuits, let's recall a little theory.

What are lithium batteries

Depending on what material the positive electrode of a lithium battery is made of, there are several varieties of them:

  • with lithium cobaltate cathode;
  • with cathode based on lithiated iron phosphate;
  • based on nickel-cobalt-aluminum;
  • based on nickel-cobalt-manganese.

All these batteries have their own characteristics, but since these nuances are not of fundamental importance for the general consumer, they will not be considered in this article.

Also, all li-ion batteries are produced in various sizes and form factors. They can be either in a case version (for example, the 18650 batteries that are popular today) or in a laminated or prismatic version (gel-polymer batteries). The latter are hermetically sealed bags made of a special film, in which the electrodes and the electrode mass are located.

The most common sizes of li-ion batteries are shown in the table below (they all have a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts):

Designation Size Similar size
XXYY0,
Where XX- indication of the diameter in mm,
YY- length value in mm,
0 - reflects the execution in the form of a cylinder
10180 2/5 AAA
10220 1/2 AAA (Ø corresponds to AAA, but half the length)
10280
10430 AAA
10440 AAA
14250 1/2AA
14270 Ø AA, length CR2
14430 Ø 14 mm (like AA), but shorter
14500 AA
14670
15266, 15270 CR2
16340 CR123
17500 150S/300S
17670 2xCR123 (or 168S/600S)
18350
18490
18500 2xCR123 (or 150A/300P)
18650 2xCR123 (or 168A/600P)
18700
22650
25500
26500 WITH
26650
32650
33600 D
42120

Internal electrochemical processes proceed in the same way and do not depend on the form factor and performance of the battery, so everything said below applies equally to all lithium batteries.

How to properly charge lithium-ion batteries

The most correct way to charge lithium batteries is to charge in two stages. It is this method that Sony uses in all its chargers. Despite the more complex charge controller, this provides a more complete charge of li-ion batteries without reducing their service life.

Here we are talking about a two-stage charge profile of lithium batteries, abbreviated as CC / CV (constant current, constant voltage). There are also options with pulsed and stepped currents, but they are not considered in this article. You can read more about charging with pulsed current.

So, let's consider both stages of the charge in more detail.

1. At the first stage a constant charge current must be provided. The current value is 0.2-0.5C. For accelerated charging, it is allowed to increase the current up to 0.5-1.0C (where C is the battery capacity).

For example, for a battery with a capacity of 3000 mAh, the nominal charge current in the first stage is 600-1500 mA, and the accelerated charge current can be in the range of 1.5-3A.

To ensure a constant charging current of a given value, the charger circuit (charger) must be able to raise the voltage at the battery terminals. In fact, at the first stage, the memory works like a classic current stabilizer.

Important: if you plan to charge batteries with a built-in protection board (PCB), then when designing the charger circuit, you must make sure that the open-circuit voltage of the circuit can never exceed 6-7 volts. Otherwise, the protection board may fail.

At the moment when the voltage on the battery rises to a value of 4.2 volts, the battery will gain approximately 70-80% of its capacity (the specific capacity value will depend on the charge current: with an accelerated charge it will be slightly less, with a nominal charge - a little more). This moment is the end of the first stage of the charge and serves as a signal for the transition to the second (and last) stage.

2. Second charge stage- this is the charge of the battery with a constant voltage, but gradually decreasing (falling) current.

At this stage, the charger maintains a voltage of 4.15-4.25 volts on the battery and controls the current value.

As the capacity increases, the charging current will decrease. As soon as its value decreases to 0.05-0.01С, the charging process is considered completed.

An important nuance in the operation of the correct charger is its complete disconnection from the battery after charging is completed. This is due to the fact that it is extremely undesirable for lithium batteries to be under high voltage for a long time, which is usually provided by the charger (i.e. 4.18-4.24 volts). This leads to accelerated degradation of the chemical composition of the battery and, as a result, a decrease in its capacity. Long stay means tens of hours or more.

During the second stage of the charge, the battery manages to gain about 0.1-0.15 more of its capacity. The total battery charge thus reaches 90-95%, which is an excellent indicator.

We have considered two main stages of charging. However, coverage of the issue of charging lithium batteries would be incomplete if one more stage of charging was not mentioned - the so-called. precharge.

Pre-charge stage (pre-charge)- this stage is used only for deeply discharged batteries (below 2.5 V) to bring them to normal operating mode.

At this stage, the charge is provided by a reduced constant current until the battery voltage reaches 2.8 V.

The preliminary stage is necessary to prevent swelling and depressurization (or even explosion with fire) of damaged batteries, which, for example, have an internal short circuit between the electrodes. If a large charge current is immediately passed through such a battery, this will inevitably lead to its heating, and then how lucky.

Another benefit of pre-charging is the pre-heating of the battery, which is important when charging at low ambient temperatures (in an unheated room during the cold season).

Intelligent charging should be able to monitor the voltage on the battery during the preliminary stage of charging and, if the voltage does not rise for a long time, to conclude that the battery is faulty.

All stages of charging a lithium-ion battery (including the pre-charge stage) are schematically shown in this graph:

Exceeding the rated charging voltage by 0.15V can cut the battery life in half. Reducing the charge voltage by 0.1 volts reduces the capacity of a charged battery by about 10%, but significantly extends its life. The voltage of a fully charged battery after removing it from the charger is 4.1-4.15 volts.

To summarize the above, we outline the main theses:

1. What current to charge a li-ion battery (for example, 18650 or any other)?

The current will depend on how fast you would like to charge it and can range from 0.2C to 1C.

For example, for a 18650 battery with a capacity of 3400 mAh, the minimum charge current is 680 mA, and the maximum is 3400 mA.

2. How long does it take to charge, for example, the same 18650 rechargeable batteries?

The charge time directly depends on the charge current and is calculated by the formula:

T \u003d C / I charge.

For example, the charge time of our battery with a capacity of 3400 mAh with a current of 1A will be about 3.5 hours.

3. How to properly charge a lithium polymer battery?

All lithium batteries are charged in the same way. It doesn't matter if it's lithium polymer or lithium ion. For us consumers, there is no difference.

What is a protection board?

The protection board (or PCB - power control board) is designed to protect against short circuit, overcharge and overdischarge of the lithium battery. As a rule, overheating protection is also built into the protection modules.

For safety reasons, it is forbidden to use lithium batteries in household appliances if they do not have a built-in protection board. Therefore, all cell phone batteries always have a PCB board. The battery output terminals are located directly on the board:

These boards use a six-legged charge controller on a specialized mikrukh (JW01, JW11, K091, G2J, G3J, S8210, S8261, NE57600, etc. analogues). The task of this controller is to disconnect the battery from the load when the battery is completely discharged and disconnect the battery from charging when it reaches 4.25V.

Here, for example, is a diagram of the BP-6M battery protection board that was supplied with old Nokia phones:

If we talk about 18650, then they can be produced both with and without a protection board. The protection module is located in the area of ​​​​the negative terminal of the battery.

The board increases the length of the battery by 2-3 mm.

Batteries without a PCB module usually come with batteries that come with their own protection circuits.

Any battery with protection can easily be converted into an unprotected battery by simply gutting it.

To date, the maximum capacity of the 18650 battery is 3400 mAh. Batteries with protection must have a corresponding designation on the case ("Protected").

Do not confuse PCB-board with PCM-module (PCM - power charge module). If the former serve only to protect the battery, then the latter are designed to control the charging process - they limit the charge current at a given level, control the temperature and, in general, ensure the entire process. The PCM board is what we call a charge controller.

I hope now there are no questions left, how to charge a 18650 battery or any other lithium battery? Then we turn to a small selection of ready-made circuit solutions for chargers (those same charge controllers).

Charging schemes for li-ion batteries

All circuits are suitable for charging any lithium battery, it remains only to decide on the charging current and element base.

LM317

Scheme of a simple charger based on the LM317 chip with a charge indicator:

The circuit is simple, the whole setting comes down to setting the output voltage to 4.2 volts using the trimmer resistor R8 (without a connected battery!) And setting the charge current by selecting resistors R4, R6. The power of the resistor R1 is at least 1 watt.

As soon as the LED goes out, the charging process can be considered completed (the charging current will never decrease to zero). It is not recommended to keep the battery in this charge for a long time after it is fully charged.

The lm317 chip is widely used in various voltage and current stabilizers (depending on the switching circuit). It is sold on every corner and costs a penny in general (you can take 10 pieces for only 55 rubles).

LM317 comes in different cases:

Pin assignment (pinout):

The analogues of the LM317 chip are: GL317, SG31, SG317, UC317T, ECG1900, LM31MDT, SP900, KR142EN12, KR1157EN1 (the last two are domestic production).

Charging current can be increased up to 3A if you take LM350 instead of LM317. True, it will be more expensive - 11 rubles / piece.

The printed circuit board and circuit assembly are shown below:

The old Soviet KT361 transistor can be replaced with a similar p-n-p transistor (for example, KT3107, KT3108 or bourgeois 2N5086, 2SA733, BC308A). It can be removed altogether if the charge indicator is not needed.

The disadvantage of the circuit: the supply voltage must be in the range of 8-12V. This is due to the fact that for the normal operation of the LM317 microcircuit, the difference between the battery voltage and the supply voltage must be at least 4.25 volts. Thus, it will not be possible to power it from the USB port.

MAX1555 or MAX1551

MAX1551/MAX1555 are specialized chargers for Li+ batteries that can work from USB or from a separate power adapter (for example, a phone charger).

The only difference between these microcircuits is that MAX1555 gives a signal for the charge progress indicator, and MAX1551 - a signal that the power is on. Those. 1555 is still preferable in most cases, so 1551 is now hard to find on sale.

A detailed description of these chips from the manufacturer -.

The maximum input voltage from the DC adapter is 7 V, when powered from USB it is 6 V. When the supply voltage drops to 3.52 V, the microcircuit turns off and the charge stops.

The microcircuit itself detects at which input the supply voltage is present and is connected to it. If the power is supplied via the USB bus, then the maximum charge current is limited to 100 mA - this allows you to plug the charger into the USB port of any computer without fear of burning the south bridge.

When powered by a separate power supply, the typical charging current is 280mA.

The chips have built-in overheating protection. But even in this case, the circuit continues to work, reducing the charge current by 17mA for every degree above 110°C.

There is a pre-charge function (see above): as long as the battery voltage is below 3V, the microcircuit limits the charge current to 40 mA.

The microcircuit has 5 pins. Here is a typical wiring diagram:

If there is a guarantee that the voltage at the output of your adapter cannot exceed 7 volts under any circumstances, then you can do without the 7805 stabilizer.

The USB charging option can be assembled, for example, on this one.

The microcircuit does not need any external diodes or external transistors. In general, of course, chic mikruhi! Only they are too small, it is inconvenient to solder. And they are still expensive ().

LP2951

The LP2951 stabilizer is manufactured by National Semiconductors (). It provides the implementation of the built-in current limiting function and allows you to generate a stable level of charge voltage for a lithium-ion battery at the output of the circuit.

The charge voltage value is 4.08 - 4.26 volts and is set by resistor R3 when the battery is disconnected. The tension is very accurate.

The charge current is 150 - 300mA, this value is limited by the internal circuits of the LP2951 chip (depending on the manufacturer).

Use a diode with a small reverse current. For example, it can be any of the 1N400X series that you can get. The diode is used as a blocking diode to prevent reverse current from the battery to the LP2951 chip when the input voltage is turned off.

This charger produces a fairly low charging current, so any 18650 battery can be charged all night.

The microcircuit can be bought both in a DIP package and in a SOIC package (the cost is about 10 rubles per piece).

MCP73831

The chip allows you to create the right chargers, besides, it is cheaper than the hyped MAX1555.

A typical switching circuit is taken from:

An important advantage of the circuit is the absence of low-resistance powerful resistors that limit the charge current. Here, the current is set by a resistor connected to the 5th output of the microcircuit. Its resistance should be in the range of 2-10 kOhm.

The charger assembly looks like this:

The microcircuit heats up quite well during operation, but this does not seem to interfere with it. It performs its function.

Here is another pcb variant with smd led and micro usb connector:

LTC4054 (STC4054)

Very simple, great idea! Allows charging with current up to 800 mA (see). True, it tends to get very hot, but in this case, the built-in overheat protection reduces the current.

The circuit can be greatly simplified by throwing out one or even both LEDs with a transistor. Then it will look like this (agree, there is nowhere easier: a pair of resistors and one conder):

One of the PCB options is available at . The board is designed for elements of size 0805.

I=1000/R. You should not set a large current right away, first see how much the microcircuit will heat up. For my purposes, I took a 2.7 kΩ resistor, while the charge current turned out to be about 360 mA.

It is unlikely that a radiator can be adapted to this microcircuit, and it is not a fact that it will be effective due to the high thermal resistance of the crystal-case transition. The manufacturer recommends making the heat sink "through the leads" - making the tracks as thick as possible and leaving the foil under the microcircuit case. And in general, the more "earth" foil left, the better.

By the way, most of the heat is removed through the 3rd leg, so you can make this track very wide and thick (fill it with excess solder).

The LTC4054 chip package may be labeled LTH7 or LTADY.

LTH7 differs from LTADY in that the first one can lift a very dead battery (on which the voltage is less than 2.9 volts), while the second one cannot (you need to swing it separately).

The chip came out very successful, so it has a bunch of analogues: STC4054, MCP73831, TB4054, QX4054, TP4054, SGM4054, ACE4054, LP4054, U4054, BL4054, WPM4054, IT4504, Y1880, PT6102, PT6181, VS610 2, HX6001, LC6000, LN5060, CX9058, EC49016, CYT5026, Q7051. Before using any of the analogues, check the datasheets.

TP4056

The microcircuit is made in the SOP-8 package (see), it has a metal heat sink on its belly that is not connected to the contacts, which makes it possible to more efficiently remove heat. Allows you to charge the battery with a current of up to 1A (the current depends on the current-setting resistor).

The connection diagram requires the very minimum of attachments:

The circuit implements the classic charge process - first charge with constant current, then with constant voltage and falling current. Everything is scientific. If you disassemble the charging step by step, then you can distinguish several stages:

  1. Monitoring the voltage of the connected battery (this happens all the time).
  2. Pre-charge stage (if the battery is discharged below 2.9 V). Charging current 1/10 from the programmed R prog resistor (100mA at R prog = 1.2 kOhm) to the level of 2.9 V.
  3. Charging with a maximum constant current (1000mA at R prog = 1.2 kOhm);
  4. When the battery reaches 4.2 V, the battery voltage is fixed at this level. A gradual decrease in the charging current begins.
  5. When the current reaches 1/10 of the R prog programmed by the resistor (100mA at R prog = 1.2 kOhm), the charger turns off.
  6. After charging is completed, the controller continues monitoring the battery voltage (see point 1). The current consumed by the monitoring circuit is 2-3 μA. After the voltage drops to 4.0V, charging turns on again. And so in a circle.

The charge current (in amperes) is calculated by the formula I=1200/R prog. The allowed maximum is 1000 mA.

A real test of charging with a 18650 battery at 3400 mAh is shown in the graph:

The advantage of the microcircuit is that the charge current is set by only one resistor. Powerful low-resistance resistors are not required. Plus, there is an indicator of the charging process, as well as an indication of the end of charging. When the battery is not connected, the indicator blinks once every few seconds.

The supply voltage of the circuit must lie within 4.5 ... 8 volts. The closer to 4.5V - the better (so the chip heats up less).

The first leg is used to connect the temperature sensor built into the lithium-ion battery (usually the middle terminal of a cell phone battery). If the output voltage is below 45% or above 80% of the supply voltage, then charging is suspended. If you don't need temperature control, just put that foot on the ground.

Attention! This scheme has one significant drawback: the absence of a battery reverse protection circuit. In this case, the controller is guaranteed to burn out due to exceeding the maximum current. In this case, the supply voltage of the circuit directly falls on the battery, which is very dangerous.

The seal is simple, done in an hour on the knee. If time suffers, you can order ready-made modules. Some manufacturers of finished modules add protection against overcurrent and overdischarge (for example, you can choose which board you need - with or without protection, and with which connector).

You can also find ready-made boards with a contact for a temperature sensor. Or even a charging module with multiple TP4056 chips in parallel to increase the charging current and with reverse polarity protection (example).

LTC1734

It's also a very simple design. The charge current is set by the resistor R prog (for example, if you put a 3 kΩ resistor, the current will be 500 mA).

Microcircuits are usually marked on the case: LTRG (they can often be found in old phones from Samsung).

The transistor is suitable for any p-n-p in general, the main thing is that it is designed for a given charging current.

There is no charge indicator on this diagram, but on the LTC1734 it is said that pin "4" (Prog) has two functions - setting the current and monitoring the end of the battery charge. For example, a circuit with end-of-charge control using the LT1716 comparator is shown.

The LT1716 comparator in this case can be replaced with a cheap LM358.

TL431 + transistor

It is probably difficult to come up with a circuit from more accessible components. Here the most difficult thing is to find the source of the reference voltage TL431. But they are so common that they are found almost everywhere (rarely what power source does without this microcircuit).

Well, the TIP41 transistor can be replaced by any other with a suitable collector current. Even the old Soviet KT819, KT805 (or less powerful KT815, KT817) will do.

Setting up the circuit comes down to setting the output voltage (without a battery !!!) using a trimming resistor at 4.2 volts. Resistor R1 sets the maximum value of the charging current.

This scheme fully implements the two-stage process of charging lithium batteries - first charging with direct current, then transition to the voltage stabilization phase and a smooth decrease in current to almost zero. The only drawback is the poor repeatability of the circuit (capricious in setting and demanding on the components used).

MCP73812

There is another undeservedly neglected microchip from Microchip - MCP73812 (see). Based on it, you get a very budget charging option (and inexpensive!). The whole kit is just one resistor!

By the way, the microcircuit is made in a case convenient for soldering - SOT23-5.

The only negative is that it gets very hot and there is no charge indication. It also somehow does not work very reliably if you have a low-power power supply (which gives a voltage drop).

In general, if charge indication is not important for you, and a current of 500 mA suits you, then the MCP73812 is a very good option.

NCP1835

A fully integrated solution is offered - NCP1835B, providing high stability of the charging voltage (4.2 ± 0.05 V).

Perhaps the only drawback of this microcircuit is its too small size (DFN-10 package, size 3x3 mm). Not everyone is able to provide high-quality soldering of such miniature elements.

Of the indisputable advantages, I would like to note the following:

  1. The minimum number of body kit parts.
  2. Ability to charge a completely discharged battery (pre-charge current 30mA);
  3. Definition of the end of charging.
  4. Programmable charging current - up to 1000 mA.
  5. Charge and error indication (capable of detecting non-rechargeable batteries and signaling this).
  6. Long-term charge protection (by changing the capacitance of the capacitor C t, you can set the maximum charge time from 6.6 to 784 minutes).

The cost of the microcircuit is not that cheap, but not so large (~ $ 1) to refuse to use it. If you are friends with a soldering iron, I would recommend opting for this option.

A more detailed description is in .

Is it possible to charge a lithium-ion battery without a controller?

Yes, you can. However, this will require tight control over the charging current and voltage.

In general, it will not work to charge the battery, for example, our 18650 without a charger at all. You still need to somehow limit the maximum charge current, so at least the most primitive memory, but still required.

The simplest charger for any lithium battery is a resistor in series with the battery:

The resistance and power dissipation of the resistor depend on the voltage of the power supply that will be used for charging.

Let's, as an example, calculate a resistor for a 5 volt power supply. We will charge a 18650 battery with a capacity of 2400 mAh.

So, at the very beginning of charging, the voltage drop across the resistor will be:

U r \u003d 5 - 2.8 \u003d 2.2 Volts

Suppose our 5V power supply is rated for a maximum current of 1A. The circuit will consume the largest current at the very beginning of the charge, when the voltage on the battery is minimal and is 2.7-2.8 Volts.

Attention: these calculations do not take into account the possibility that the battery can be very deeply discharged and the voltage on it can be much lower, down to zero.

Thus, the resistance of the resistor required to limit the current at the very beginning of the charge at the level of 1 Ampere should be:

R = U / I = 2.2 / 1 = 2.2 ohm

Resistor Dissipation Power:

P r \u003d I 2 R \u003d 1 * 1 * 2.2 \u003d 2.2 W

At the very end of the battery charge, when the voltage on it approaches 4.2 V, the charge current will be:

I charge \u003d (U un - 4.2) / R \u003d (5 - 4.2) / 2.2 \u003d 0.3 A

That is, as we can see, all values ​​do not go beyond the allowable limits for a given battery: the initial current does not exceed the maximum allowable charge current for a given battery (2.4 A), and the final current exceeds the current at which the battery no longer gains capacity ( 0.24 A).

The main drawback of such charging is the need to constantly monitor the voltage on the battery. And manually turn off the charge as soon as the voltage reaches 4.2 Volts. The fact is that lithium batteries do not tolerate even a short-term overvoltage very well - the electrode masses begin to degrade quickly, which inevitably leads to a loss of capacity. At the same time, all the prerequisites for overheating and depressurization are created.

If your battery has a built-in protection board, which was discussed a little higher, then everything is simplified. Upon reaching a certain voltage on the battery, the board itself will disconnect it from the charger. However, this method of charging has significant disadvantages, which we talked about in.

The protection built into the battery will not allow it to be recharged under any circumstances. All that remains for you to do is to control the charge current so that it does not exceed the allowable values ​​for this battery (protection boards cannot limit the charge current, unfortunately).

Charging with a laboratory power supply

If you have a power supply with current protection (limitation) at your disposal, then you are saved! Such a power supply is already a full-fledged charger that implements the correct charge profile, which we wrote about above (CC / CV).

All you need to do to charge li-ion is to set the power supply to 4.2 volts and set the desired current limit. And you can connect the battery.

Initially, when the battery is still discharged, the laboratory power supply will operate in current protection mode (i.e., it will stabilize the output current at a given level). Then, when the voltage on the bank rises to the set 4.2V, the power supply will switch to voltage stabilization mode, and the current will begin to fall.

When the current drops to 0.05-0.1C, the battery can be considered fully charged.

As you can see, the laboratory PSU is an almost perfect charger! The only thing it can't do automatically is make a decision to fully charge the battery and turn off. But this is a trifle, which is not even worth paying attention to.

How to charge lithium batteries?

And if we are talking about a disposable battery that is not intended for recharging, then the correct (and only correct) answer to this question is NO.

The fact is that any lithium battery (for example, the common CR2032 in the form of a flat tablet) is characterized by the presence of an internal passivating layer that covers the lithium anode. This layer prevents the anode from reacting chemically with the electrolyte. And the supply of external current destroys the above protective layer, leading to damage to the battery.

By the way, if we talk about the CR2032 non-rechargeable battery, that is, the LIR2032, which is very similar to it, is already a full-fledged battery. It can and should be recharged. Only her voltage is not 3, but 3.6V.

How to charge lithium batteries (whether it's a phone battery, 18650 or any other li-ion battery) was discussed at the beginning of the article.

85 kop/pc. Buy MCP73812 65 rub/piece Buy NCP1835 83 rub/pcs. Buy *All chips with free shipping

Lithium batteries are increasingly used in various mobile devices and, with some delay, electronic toys. What used to be powered by 3 AA batteries can now be powered by a single Li-Ion, format (or size) 18650. In fact, this is almost a copy of AA. That's just a little more complicated than the old (nickel) type battery. We suggest using ready-made Li-Po USB charger blocks that are suitable for LiPo / LiIon elements.

They have only two LEDs - red if charging, green if fully charged. Small, handy and cheap devices based on the TP4056 chip.

USB charger on TP4056

Most of these charge controllers have one resistor that sets the charge current, so having studied the datasheet on the microcircuit, it becomes clear how to change it over a wide range. The charge current is set by resistor R4, by default a 1.2 kΩ resistor is soldered, which corresponds to a charge current of approximately 1 A. We conducted experiments, and here are the values ​​\u200b\u200bthat we got with other ratings:

Based on the obtained values, you can plot the current versus resistance for the TP4056 charger.

For other types of batteries, this scheme will not work, but lithium batteries of all types work perfectly with it. We offer a great option: one can from the battery of an old non-working mobile phone or a laptop cell, plus this device. And now you have a capacious, stable 4 V voltage source that will replace conventional batteries in a variety of cases. And it will be charged from a standard USB output of 5 volts. But according to the passport to the microcircuit, it successfully works in the input voltage range of 1-8 V.

Greetings to all who looked at the light. The review will focus, as you probably already guessed, on one interesting modification of the "folk" charging module TP4056 for a current of 3A and small use as a homemade charger for lithium. There will be a little testing and a simple example of making a charge from cheap components, so if you are interested, you are welcome under the cat.

So, here is the same modification of the "folk" scarf:

Application of this board:

  • Charging Li-Ion batteries built into the end device. A common case is that there are several paralleled cans in the device and 1A is too small. Well, judge for yourself, there are two or three banks of 2.6-3Ah each, the total capacity is about 6-7Ah. The charge of such a battery will take about 7-8 hours, and with this scarf - about 3 hours. As an example - homemade PB, cordless screwdrivers and mini screwdrivers
  • Assembling your "fast" charger for one or two batteries. Modern high-capacity batteries at 3300-3500mah can easily accept 3-4A, and even two parallel banks even more so (before charging, it is better to approximately equalize the potentials). The manufacturers themselves allow charging some cans with a current of 3-4A, this is written in the datasheets for these cans.
TTX:
  • Input connector - DC Port 5mm + duplicate outputs;
  • Input voltage - 4.5V-5.5V
  • Final charge voltage - 4.2V (Li-Ion batteries);
  • Maximum charging current - 3A;
  • Number of TP4056 modules - 4 (max. overclocking current 4A);
  • Indication – discrete two-color LED (red/green);
  • Reverse polarity protection - no;
  • Dimensions - 65mm * 15mm.
Equipment:
  • Charge board 4 * TP4056 at 3A;
  • Two-color three-legged LED (red / blue light);
  • DC connector 5mm.

The handkerchief is delivered in the usual small package, it reached me in two or three weeks. Inside the package there was a kind of protection - two glued sheets of polyethylene foam, inside of which there was a scarf:

Charging board close-up:

According to the circuitry, there is nothing supernatural - they just took and paralleled 4 TP4056 controllers, while simultaneously reducing the maximum charging current for each controller from 1A to 750ma. At first, I could not understand why the maximum charging current is only 3A, because there are four controllers, but looking closer, I saw not the usual 1.2Kom SMD resistor, but 1.6Kom. Moreover, in all shoulders there is a 1.6Kom resistor:

Let me remind you the table of the maximum charging current depending on the value of the current-setting resistor:

In our case, there are 1.6k resistors for each controller, 750ma per arm. Therefore, the total maximum charging current is 3A. It's for the best, the handkerchief heats up less, and 4A is already a bit too much. On the other hand, if you need a charging current of 4A, we change 4 resistors.

Most likely, it will not work to regulate the total charging current by soldering a tuning / variable resistor, because it must be set for each controller.

In total, for those who find it difficult or unwilling to solder folk scarves themselves, this is a good solution to the problem.

Scarf sizes:

The scarf is quite small, only 65mm * 15mm:

Here is a comparison with the "people's" board TP4056 at 1A, 18650 battery and holder:

If necessary, you can bite off the front part of the board, on which the DC connector is soldered and solder to the 5V+ or 5V- contacts, or directly to the corresponding tracks:

So the length of the scarf will be 1 centimeter shorter. Previously, I have already reworked the folk scarf, here's what happened:

In our case, everything is simply impossible, because the tracks on the printed circuit board do not suffer. Of course, who needs a DC connector - leave it, or solder it through the wires to the 5V+ or 5V- contacts. MicroUSB and miniUSB connectors are undesirable here, they will get very hot, because they are not designed for such currents. Yes, and there is no need for them, because in most adapters there is a limit of 2.5A. But on the other hand, if the adapter does not turn off when overloaded, then we save on a discrete power supply, and the current will be slightly less. Therefore, it's up to you...

Testing scarves 4*TP4056 3A:

Now let's test the scarf. Does it really charge 3A? To do this, we will be helped by an ampervoltmeter, which often flickers in my reviews (measuring charge current) and a familiar multimeter (measuring battery voltage). As a power source - switching PSU S-30-5 at 5V / 6A:

As you can see, the charge really goes with a constant current of 3A (CC phase), until the voltage on the bank exceeds 3.9V-3.95V, then it starts to gradually decrease (the CV phase begins). As soon as the voltage on the bank equals 4.2V, the color of the LED changes to green, meaning that the charge is over. Although, due to inertia, the current continues to flow:

After that, for another 10-15 minutes, the current decreases, while the voltage on the battery is 4.21V. As soon as the current drops to 150mA, the controller completely turns off the charge, the voltage on the bank drops to 4.2V.

Almost “squeezed out” can of Sanyo UR18650ZY 2600mah was charged by the module in 75-80 minutes. Well, just great!

A small example of assembling your charger at 3A:

As an example, I will give an example of building my charger from proven inexpensive components. What we need for this:

1) Directly monitored board TP4056*:

You need copper, not copper-plated. It is easy to determine - we clean it with a knife and if the veins begin to shine and do not tin, then the wire is copper-plated (aluminum coated with copper). I recommend either high-quality acoustic or household ones, such as ShVVP.

5) Power supply unit (PSU) for 5V at 5-6A (with a margin). I used S-30-5 5V/6A* PSU:

You can use the common 12V 2-3A power supply that comes with various devices and a 5A DC-DC step-down converter (they hold 3A stably). But there are a couple of minuses here, because the circuit becomes more complicated and the cost of the charger increases. Therefore, if a suitable PSU is not available, then we use a computer PSU. An additional load of 15W is not terrible for him, unless, of course, he is already working at the limit of his capabilities. If there is a free Molex connector available, then it will not be difficult to hook up an adapter to it. In this case, we need red (+) and black (-) wires.

So, we figured out the components. Now the assembly itself:

Since the handkerchief will be used in another device and I already have good high-current chargers, I don’t need home-made charging, so the assembly, as they say, is on my knee (I won’t solder the connectors):

We take a holder for the battery and cut out the plastic at the ends for the wire (lower groove in the photo):

Then we solder the power wires with or without connectors, depending on which option you chose. We bend the three-legged LED at our discretion, but in order not to short its conclusions, we stretch insulation from any wire on them:

We close the board with a plastic cover from the cable channel or a similar casing and wrap it with the well-known electrical tape, :-). It turns out quite artisanal, but the main thing works:

Control check, everything works:

I did not solder the connectors, but connected directly to the PSU. I recommend soldering an appropriate connector that will withstand a continuous current flow of 3A. This is all I have...

Pros:

  • Reliable, proven over the years element base;
  • High charge current;
  • The possibility of increasing the charging current up to 4A by replacing the current-setting resistors;
  • Small size;
  • Ease of installation and operation.
Minuses:
  • The price is too big;
  • The handkerchief is not designed to charge successive assemblies (2S, 3S, 4S and more cannot);
  • Requires external power;
  • Afraid of polarity reversal;
  • Some inhibition of the last phase of the charge (CV).

Conclusion: useful modification

We are talking about a very convenient board with a charge controller based on TP4056. The board additionally has protection for li-ion 3.7V batteries.

Suitable for converting toys and household appliances from batteries to rechargeable batteries.
This is a cheap and efficient module (charging current up to 1A).

Although a lot has already been written about modules on the TP4056 chip, I will add a little from myself.
More recently, I learned about, which cost a little more, are slightly larger in size, but additionally include a BMS module () to control and protect the battery from overdischarge and overcharge based on the S-8205A and DW01, which turn off the battery when the voltage on it is exceeded .


The boards are designed to work with 18650 cells (mainly due to the charging current of 1A), but with some alteration (soldering the resistor - reducing the charging current) they are suitable for any 3.7V batteries.
The layout of the board is convenient - there are solder pads for input, output and for the battery. Modules can be powered by Micro USB. The charging status is displayed by the built-in LED.
Dimensions are approximately 27 by 17 mm, the thickness is small, the “thickest” place is the MicroUSB connector


Specifications:
Type: Charger module
Input Voltage: 5V Recommended
Charge Cut-off Voltage: 4.2V (±)1%
Maximum Charging Current: 1000mA
Battery Over-discharge Protection Voltage: 2.5V
Battery Over-current Protection Current: 3A
Board Size: Approx. 27*17mm
Status LED: Red: Charging; Green: Complete Charging
Package Weight: 9g

The link in the header sells a lot of five pieces, that is, the price of one board is about $0.6. It's slightly more expensive than a single charging board on the TP4056, but without protection - these are sold in packs for a dollar and a half. But for normal operation, you need to buy a separate BMS.

Briefly about adjusting the charging current for TP4056

TP4056 charge controller module + battery protection
Provides overcharge, overdischarge, triple overload and short circuit protection.
Max Charging Current: 1A
Maximum continuous discharge current: 1A (peak 1.5A)
Charging voltage limit: 4.275 V ±0. 025 V
Limitation (cutoff) of discharge: 2.75 V ±0. 1 V
Battery protection, chip: DW01.
B+ connects to the positive terminal of the battery
B- connects to the negative terminal of the battery
P- is connected to the negative terminal of the load and charge connection point.

There is R3 on the board (marking 122 - 1.2 kOhm), to select the desired charging current for the element, select the resistor according to the table and solder it.


Just in case, a typical inclusion of TP4056 from the specification.



The lot of TP4056 + BMS modules is taken not for the first time, it turned out to be very convenient for hassle-free alterations of household appliances and toys to batteries.

The dimensions of the modules are small, just less than two AA batteries in width, flat - they are great for installing old batteries from cell phones.


For charging, a standard 5V source from USB is used, the input is MicroUSB. If the boards are used in cascade, you can solder to the first one in parallel, the photo shows the minus and plus contacts on the sides of the MicroUSB connector.


There is nothing on the reverse side - this can help when attaching to glue or tape.


MicroUSB connectors are used for power supply. Old boards on the TP4056 had MiniUSB.
You can solder the boards together at the input and only connect one to USB - this way you can charge 18650 cascades, for example, for screwdrivers.


Outputs - extreme pads for connecting the load (OUT +/-), in the middle BAT +/- for connecting the battery cell.


The fee is small and convenient. Unlike just modules on the TP4056, there is battery cell protection here.
For cascading, you need to connect the load outputs (OUT +/–) in series, and the power inputs in parallel.


The module is ideal for installation in various household appliances and toys that are powered by 2-3-4-5 AA or AAA cells. This, firstly, brings some savings, especially with frequent replacement of batteries (in toys), and, secondly, convenience and versatility. You can use for power elements taken from old batteries from laptops, cell phones, disposable electronic cigarettes, and so on. In case there are three elements, four, six and so on, you need to use the StepUp module to increase the voltage from 3.7V to 4.5V/6.0V, etc. Depending on the load, of course. Also convenient is the option on two battery cells (2S, two boards in series, 7.4V) with a StepDown board. As a rule, StepDown are adjustable, and you can adjust any voltage within the supply voltage. This is an extra volume to place instead of AA / AAA batteries, but then you don’t have to worry about the electronics of the toy.


Specifically, one of the boards was designed for an old IKEA mixer. Very often it was necessary to replace the batteries in it, and it worked poorly on batteries (in NiMH 1.2V instead of 1.5V). The motor doesn't care if it is powered by 3V or 3.7V, so I did without StepDown. It even turned a little more vigorously.


The 08570 battery from an electronic cigarette is almost ideal for any alterations (capacity is about 280mAh, and the price is free).


But in this case, it's a bit long. The length of the AA battery is 50 mm, and this battery is 57 mm, did not fit. You can, of course, make a “superstructure”, for example, from polymorph plastic, but ...
As a result, I took a small model battery with the same capacity. It is highly desirable to reduce the charging current (up to 250 ... 300 mA) by increasing the resistor R3 on the board. You can heat the regular one, bend one end, and solder any available 2-3 kOhm.

On the left, I brought a picture according to the old module. On the new module, the placement of the components is different, but all the same elements are present.


We connect the battery (Solder) to the terminals in the middle of BAT +/–, solder the motor contacts from the contactor plates for AA batteries (we remove them altogether), solder the motor load to the board output (OUT +/–).
You can cut a USB hole in the lid with a Dremel.


I made a new cover - the old one was completely thrown out. The new slots are thought out for placing the board and a hole for MicroUSB.


Gif of the mixer from the battery - it spins briskly. The 280mAh capacity is enough for a few minutes of work, you have to charge it in 3-6 days, depending on how often you use it (I rarely use it, you can plant it at once if you get carried away.). Due to the decrease in charging current, it charges for a long time, a little less than an hour. But any charging from a smartphone.


If you use a StepDown controller for RC cars, then it's better to take two 18650 and two boards and connect them in series (and the charging inputs in parallel), as in the picture. Where the common OUT is placed any step-down module and adjusted to the desired voltage (for example, 4.5V / 6.0V) In this case, the machine will not drive slowly when the batteries run out. In the event of a discharge, the module will simply turn off abruptly.

The module on the TP4056 with built-in BMS protection is very practical and versatile.
The module is designed for a charging current of 1A.
If you connect in a cascade, take into account the total current when charging, for example, 4 cascades to power the batteries of a screwdriver will “ask” 4A for charging, and this charger from a cell phone will not stand it.
The module is convenient for remaking toys - radio-controlled cars, robots, various lamps, remote controls ... - all possible toys and equipment where you have to change batteries often.

Update: if the minus is through, then everything is more complicated with parallelization.
See comments.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +57 Add to favorites Liked the review +29 +62