Most often, plasterboard is used, which today, due to its advantages, is one of the best methods of interior cladding. Usually, for its installation, a special sheathing is constructed from a metal profile, but this may not always be advisable. In small rooms, for example, installing a frame will reduce its already small area.

Required tools and materials

To attach drywall to walls without lathing, you will need the following materials and tools:

• plasterboard sheets;
• powder mixture or construction adhesive;
• primer composition;
• bucket for preparing fixing solution;
• a screwdriver with an attachment or a construction mixer;
• jigsaw;
• spirit level to determine the level;
• construction or stationery knife for cutting sheets;
• ruler, felt-tip pen, tape measure;
• rule;
• metal brush;
• roller for painting;
• rubber mallet;
• smooth long rail;
• spatulas.

Measurements and cutting

The initial stage of work is taking measurements of the room and cutting materials. Based on the measurement results, you can consider options for the arrangement of sheets and determine the most acceptable one. If the ceiling height exceeds 2.5 meters, in addition to standard sheets, you will need inserts that must be pre-cut.

The process of cutting and cutting drywall for inserts is as follows:

• the line along which cutting will be carried out is indicated;
• along the entire length of the marked line, a knife is used to cut one side of the sheet;
• along the cutting line, bending inward, it is cut;
• on the opposite side, at the fracture site, the cut sheet is cut into two parts.

Preparing the walls

The next step is preparing the base. Depending on the material from which the walls are decorated, various measures are taken to prepare it. So, for brickwork it will be enough to treat it with a primer mixture.

If the surface has been plastered, to avoid peeling of the putty and deformation of the slab, all coating should be removed, including all layers of finish, then immediately apply a primer coat.

If difficulties arise in the process of removing the old base, you will need to use a metal brush, with which dust, dirt and deposits are removed from the wall.

If during work the finish peels off from the base, you should carefully plaster the potholes so that the surface is smooth.

Let's take a closer look at the process of preparing the wall surface:

1. To remove paint or old wallpaper, it is better to use a hard metal spatula. It is important that it does not sag. Before removing the wallpaper, you should wet it well with a sponge and allow the water to soak into the wallpaper layer for some time and soak the glue. If necessary, you can wet the wall several times. As an alternative to water, you can use a special liquid to remove wallpaper, but it is not cheap, but the process of removing wallpaper is noticeably easier.
2. Plaster can be removed using an axe, hammer or hammer drill., making sure that the wall is completely clear of decoration, otherwise it may negatively affect the final result.
3. A layer of old paint can be removed using a small ax, with which the old coating is knocked off centimeter by centimeter.

Fixing composition

For work with drywall that does not require the installation of a frame for attaching drywall, adhesive mixtures are used. Since drywall is used for interior decoration, the basis of dry compositions is gypsum. Instead of glue, you can use starting putty or alabaster, but to increase adhesion you will have to add PVA glue or wallpaper glue to the water.

Let's consider several ways to use the solution:

• when differences exceed 5 mm, the plasterboard is fixed to putty with a gypsum base, which is applied in a thin layer along all edges and in the middle of the slab;
• with differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are fixed using a special gypsum glue, which is applied pointwise at a distance of 30 centimeters;
• for unevenness less than 40 mm, strips of plasterboard 10 cm wide are attached to the wall using glue, after which sheets are glued onto them using putty;
• if the wall differences are more than 40-50 mm, the frameless method of attaching drywall is unacceptable.

A solution for fixing drywall to walls is prepared from a powder mixture and water. To prepare a 10-liter bucket, fill it a third with water and add the mixture little by little, constantly stirring it with a mixer or drill at low speed.

Knead the solution for less than 5 minutes, then take a short break and beat again, this will break up all the dry lumps. The consistency of the solution should resemble mashed potatoes.

Fixing mixtures, regardless of the manufacturer, harden fairly quickly, however, subsequent finishing of drywall can begin no earlier than after 24 hours.

Drywall installation

There are several ways to frameless fasten drywall:

1. Fixation with glue. First of all, in order to avoid damage to the drywall, which can occur when the walls are deformed, it is recommended to leave small gaps: 1 cm from the floor, 0.5 cm from the ceiling and between the sheets. To do this, you will need wooden pegs when fixing the material. A solution is applied to a sheet previously treated with a primer., after which it is glued to the base as quickly but carefully as possible. First of all, gaskets are installed in the lower edge, then after positioning the sheet according to the lower marks, the rest of it is fixed. Using a rule or level, lightly tapping with a rubber hammer adjusts the unevenness, but it is not advisable to knock on the tool. The alignment process is controlled as follows: determined the location of the unevenness, removed the tool, leveled it and adjusted the level again. After leveling is completed, the slab should be supported for a while with a wooden lath. If the differences in the wall are significant, guides are used for installation, which are installed in places of greatest difference, compensating for them with a large amount of glue. The sheets should be aligned carefully so as not to deform it. Upon completion of the work, the joints of the sheets are glued with fiberglass mesh, and after the solution has dried, they are puttied. Roughness and unevenness are rubbed down with sandpaper, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.
2. Installation with self-tapping screws. This method is a little more complicated than the previous one, but more reliable. Suitable for walls with large irregularities. In addition to the basic set of materials and tools, you will need polyurethane foam and foam rubber (thin ones will not work). Before attaching the sheets, the walls must be treated with a primer. Then the previously cut slabs are applied to the base, and holes are drilled in constant steps at ten points, which serve as a marker. Remove the slab and drive anchors into the holes using markers. Foam rubber is glued onto the sheet at a distance of 9-11 centimeters from the holes, which acts as a shock absorber, then it is leaned against the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws. Drywall is fastened using a level by screwing in and unscrewing screws. To fix the sheet, a hole with a circumference of about 5 mm is drilled near each screw, into which polyurethane foam will be poured. Before pouring, it is advisable to practice with the dosage; it is necessary that after the foam comes out, a spot with a diameter of 12-15 centimeters will form. If there are electrical switches or sockets on the walls, holes for them are pre-cut. After the foam has hardened, the screws are removed and the resulting holes are covered with putty. Then you can proceed to the final stage of work - sealing the seams and installing skirting boards.

Let's get acquainted with the features of installing the material on a base with varying degrees of differences:

1. If unevenness exceeds 4 mm, the sheets can be installed from any angle and close to each other. If the material is attached to a wooden base, you can use nails with large heads that go shallow into the drywall.
2. For differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are laid on glue from the corner close to each other. Any glue that may appear at the joints should be carefully removed.
3. Installation of drywall with unevenness up to 40 mm is carried out by cutting the sheets into strips half a meter wide, and they are attached vertically to the base.

Completion of work

After completing the installation of drywall using a frameless method, the joints between the sheets should be securely sealed. At this stage, the joints are filled with putty and reinforcing glass tape is glued, which is covered with a finishing layer of plaster.

After the surface has dried, all irregularities and roughness are rubbed off using sanding paper.

It is important to reliably align and adhere the material to the openings for windows and doors. In a room with plastic windows, finishing of the fit is carried out using a plastic profile. The gaps above the floor are covered with plinth, and the gaps under the ceiling are puttied or covered with ceiling plinth.

1. Finishing with plasterboard may require the use of shaped inserts. To do this, you will need to use an electric jigsaw, which can be used to create beautiful shapes with smooth edges.
2. When cleaning the surface there will be a lot of dust, Therefore, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask, and periodically spray the base with water.
3. The ceiling height when installing drywall without sheathing should not exceed three meters due to the fact that the technology does not provide for horizontal joints.
4. If the sheet is deformed during installation of the material, it can be restored. So, shallow scratches and chips are smoothed out with putty. To do this, clean the scratched area from dust, remove torn parts of the cardboard and repair the damage with universal putty or gypsum mixture. If there are any irregularities, after the putty has dried, they are sanded with sandpaper.
5. Deep damage is repaired by applying a patch. A hole is cut out in a previously cleaned damaged area so that its circumference in depth is larger than the circumference of the outer edge. A patch is cut out of drywall so that it fits tightly into the hole. On the other side it is secured with a wooden plank. On the outside, the patch is reinforced with fabric and puttied. After drying, sand it.
6. In rooms with a large number of electrical appliances and hidden wiring, it is recommended to use fire-resistant material, which will prevent the occurrence of fire hazards.

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How to attach drywall to walls without a frame - 3 real ways

Leveling walls using plasterboards is one of the fastest and most affordable ways to furnish a room. At the moment, there are 2 main installation technologies: frame and frameless. It is, of course, easier to mount on a frame, but it takes up a lot of usable space. Therefore, in small city apartments it is more relevant to install drywall on a wall without a frame. In this article I will talk about three ways to cover walls with plasterboard without a frame and all the intricacies of this process that I know.

A few words about the material

During the existence and active use of plasterboard, several types of such sheets have been developed, each of which is intended for certain operating conditions:

• In residential, dry areas, the most common are standard gypsum board sheets. Such sheets are not impregnated with anything, hence the price for them is perhaps the most affordable. They are often produced in gray and have blue markings;
• GKLV sheets are produced for cladding in services and other rooms with high humidity.. This is a moisture resistant material. Such sheets have a greenish color and blue markings;
• Fire-resistant drywall is designated by the abbreviation GKLO. Some sources recommend it for tiling kitchens, but from my own experience I can say that there is no point in using it in city apartments at all. This material is good for cladding fireplaces and other similar structures. These sheets have a gray “shirt” and red markings;
• There is also universal plasterboard GKLVO, it is moisture and fire resistant. You can mount it virtually anywhere, but as you understand, the price of these sheets is much higher. Theoretically, it is well suited for the kitchen, but in practice, there is no point in paying for universal sheets if you can get by with simple moisture-resistant ones.

There are also GLV gypsum fiber sheets, but in our case they are not suitable for leveling walls without a frame.

Frameless installation methods

The use of one or another of the methods described below depends on how smooth your walls are. Conventionally, they can be divided into 3 categories:

• The first method is used for walls with smooth curvatures of up to 5 mm;
• The second is intended for surfaces with curvature up to 20 mm;
• And the third is used on very curved surfaces with differences of up to 40 mm.

Important: it is believed that facing walls with plasterboard without a frame makes sense only if the differences in the plane do not exceed 40, maximum 50 mm. In all other cases, installation of a frame is required.

Surface preparation

Any construction work begins with preparing the base, but for installing drywall on walls without a frame, the base must be prepared especially carefully. Otherwise, you run the risk that over time, mold and mildew will grow wildly in the gaps between the wall and the sheets, and then asthma and allergies are not far away.

• If the wall is plastered, then first you need to carefully “tap” it to detect voids and peelings. When such are found, the plaster layer in these places should be completely knocked down to a solid base;
• There are times when you have to level an old wall that already has several layers of plaster applied at different times. Here, regardless of whether you find voids or not, it is advisable to completely remove all plaster layers. In this case, there is too high a chance that one of the old layers will fall behind over time and your new, beautiful cladding may simply collapse;
• When you remove plaster or simply clean up problem areas, old cracks and sinkholes may open up on the walls. So, all of them will need to be widened and thoroughly cleaned, since there are almost certainly mold spores at the bottom of these cracks. I usually use a grinder for this, but if you don’t have one at hand, then you can get by with a chisel and a hammer;

• If there are oil stains on the wall, you can try to remove them with ammonia or some similar reagent. Although personally I prefer not to mess with chemistry. It is much faster and more reliable to knock off the old plaster along with the oil stain and forget about the problem;
• Too large growths and bumps will also need to be knocked down. Simply put, your task is to make the wall relatively flat;
• This ends the first and, by the way, the dirtiest stage of preparation; then we move on to eliminating visible defects. But first you will need to sweep away the dust with a brush and go through the soil a couple of times;

Fine construction dust should be removed with a brush or damp cloth. Do not even think about using a household vacuum cleaner for these purposes. At one time I stepped on this rake, as a result the vacuum cleaner burned out, and they charged so much for its repair that it was easier to buy a new one.

• If the walls are covered with plasterboard in a potentially dry room, then Betonkontakt can be used as a primer. For damp rooms it is better to use Tiefengrund. This composition significantly reduces the level of moisture absorption by the base. Naturally, in addition to these primers, there are many others, but I recommend those compositions that have already been tested;
• At the last stage of preparation, you will need to putty all the deep sinks and previously cleaned cracks, and when the putty dries, go over it with primer again;
• There are now more than enough different specialized putties on the market, but in the old fashioned way I prefer to use regular plaster for these purposes. Firstly, gypsum, or alabaster as it is also called, hardens within 15 - 20 minutes, and secondly, its strength is sufficient for such work. Plus, the price of alabaster is quite reasonable.

Method number 1: dealing with minor curvatures

Wall cladding with plasterboard has its own characteristics. So, no matter what leveling method you choose, the sheets should not fit tightly to the floor and ceiling. In these places a damper gap of approximately 5 - 10 mm is left.

It is necessary so that the sheets do not warp during temperature deformations or shrinkage of the building. And also for air access, because without it the construction adhesive will harden for a very long time. Upon completion of the work, the gap from below will be covered with a plinth, and the upper gap will need to be filled with elastic silicone.

As a rule, this method is used in cases where the wall is covered with many cracks, and the home craftsman simply cannot or does not want to plaster the entire surface with his own hands.

True, I have also come across such owners who, at any cost, want to make perfectly smooth walls. And assurances that a smooth drop of 5 mm is impossible to notice visually on the wall do not convince them. Roughly speaking, people simply have this “fad”; they cannot feel comfortable if they know that there is a slight imbalance somewhere.

First, you will need to use a level and plumb line to measure how even your corners are. The fact is that installation should begin from the most even angle, otherwise the distortion will be very difficult to correct later.

Ideally, for these purposes it is better to use a laser level, but it costs serious money and in the absence of one, you can get by with an ordinary building level with a length of about 2 m. As a last resort, a simple plumb line will do, but here you will have to rely on the accuracy of your eye.

Often, for such work, sheets about 3 m high are used. Taking into account the fact that the ceiling height in most of our city apartments fluctuates around 2.5 m, you can completely cover the entire wall with one sheet.

For such work, I use Fugenfüller construction adhesive-putty; I see no point in writing about the technology for diluting it, because all such compositions must have detailed instructions.

When you get the glue into working condition, it is most convenient to apply it to the sheet with a notched trowel with a tooth depth of 5 - 10 mm. It makes sense to apply glue in a continuous ball over the entire sheet only if it is planned to lay tiles as the finishing cladding.

In dry rooms designed for painting or wallpapering, such an unprecedented waste of expensive glue is absolutely not justified. In this case, it will be enough to apply a strip 15–20 cm wide around the perimeter and at several points in the center of the sheet.

Naturally, before applying the glue, the sheet will need to be cut to size, taking into account the upper and lower damper gaps. To ensure the bottom gap, I simply place the sheet on the pads. As a rule, these are pieces of broken tiles or the same scraps of drywall.

When you apply the glue-coated sheet to the wall, it will need to be accurately aligned vertically. To be honest, this is the most important and difficult stage. Most craftsmen recommend tapping the sheet with a rubber hammer, or if your health allows you to gently press down or hit it with your fist, constantly checking the vertical with a level.

I do it a little differently. Drywall is a rather fragile thing and, without experience, it can easily be damaged by targeted blows. In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, I first apply a long and wide metal rule to the convex place and hit it. Thus, the pressure is evenly distributed over the plane, and the sheet gently takes its place.

Method number 2: use beacons

Installing drywall on lighthouses is actually one of the types of frame installation. Only a regular frame is assembled from UD and CD profiles. And here, instead of profiles, beacons are attached to the wall. This method is used for height differences of 5 mm or more.

Pre-cut squares from the same drywall are used as beacons. The length of the side of such a square usually fluctuates around 20 cm. Instead of squares, you can attach strips to the wall, but there is more fiddling with them.

To ensure uniform support, the beacons are installed strictly in squares, as shown in the diagram. The distance between the beacons is maintained in the region of 30–40 cm. The squares themselves are glued to the base with the same drywall adhesive.

Naturally, since our wall is curved, each lighthouse will have a different height. One plate is placed on the most convex points. Further, depending on the size of the depressions, the number of plates increases.

This method is perfect for beginners. If, during continuous planting with glue, you have a maximum of 15 - 20 minutes to position the sheet, because then the glue will begin to harden, then the beacons can be slowly placed, without rushing anywhere. And when everything is perfect, simply prime and spread the pads with a thin layer of glue, and then carefully attach the sheet to them.

Method No. 3: installation with self-tapping screws

Fastening drywall to the wall with self-tapping screws without a frame is a fairly common practice. Just like the previous technology, it is used for large differences in height along the plane.

First, you measure and cut the sheet as usual. Next, place supports on the floor, place the sheet on them and try it on the wall, exactly as it will stand in the future. Now you will need to take a drill and drill about a dozen and a half holes for self-tapping screws, evenly distributing them over the entire plane. You need to drill through so that marks remain on the wall.

Drywall needs to be drilled with a thin drill. Later, when you screw self-tapping screws into these holes, they should not dangle.

After this, you remove the sheet to the side and, using the markings remaining from the thin drill, use a hammer drill and a drill with Pobedit soldering to drill a series of holes in the wall for plastic “quick installation” dowels and immediately insert these same dowels into them.

Now apply thick construction glue onto the wall in frequent “blots”. The thickness of the cakes should be approximately 10 - 15 mm greater than the planned border of the sheet. At the next stage, you apply the sheet to the wall and screw the screws into the holes.

As you tighten the screws, the sheet will gradually be pressed against the wall and seated on the glue. In this case, the plane and vertical are adjusted with self-tapping screws and the main thing here is not to overtighten.

In order to avoid accidentally tightening the self-tapping screw all the way and thus not bending the plane, you do not need to use a screwdriver. In this situation, it is better to take a regular screwdriver and slowly, constantly checking the plane for level, tighten the screws with your own hands.

What you definitely shouldn't do

Recently, while browsing information on the Internet, I came across another “interesting” method of installing drywall using self-tapping screws without a frame. Some unfortunate master was describing a supposedly working technology.

It all sounded something like this: first, as in the method described above, a sheet of drywall was tried on the wall. A series of holes were drilled in it, and then in the wall itself, into which plastic “quick installation” dowels were inserted.

After this, several foam rollers were glued to the inside of the sheet. According to the plan, they should act as shock absorbers when the sheet is leveled. Then, without any glue, the sheet was aligned vertically using self-tapping screws.

At the last stage, the most interesting thing happens: the author recommends drilling another hole with a diameter of about 10 - 15 mm next to the screws. And virtually blindly inject polyurethane foam into these holes. It is assumed that the foam should fill the voids and at the same time firmly glue the drywall to the wall.

I had a case when, while insulating a wooden door opening, I poured a little more polyurethane foam than necessary. So, during expansion, the foam moved a powerful wooden beam.

In our situation, I can say with full responsibility that if you pour foam between the drywall and the wall, it will simply warp. As a result of pressure, the sheet will at least go in waves.

And if you make a mistake with the dosage and pour in too much foam, the sheet may even break or be torn off the screws, because they stand firmly. So keep in mind, polyurethane foam is a good thing, but you don’t need to pour it anywhere.

Conclusion

As you can see, installing drywall on walls without a frame is a completely doable task, even for an amateur. Of course, you need to act carefully. If you have no experience at all, then I would recommend that you pay attention to the installation of beacons.

In the photos and videos in this article I have included useful information on this topic. If you have any questions, write in the comments and we’ll talk.

There are 2 methods of attaching drywall to the wall surface: with and without a frame. The latter, at first glance, seems to be the simplest, since this method does not require the installation of profile sheathing or wooden blocks. Is it so? What are the methods for frameless fastening of drywall to a wall?

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile

Of course, the most reliable and correct method is to construct a frame and then attach drywall sheets. But in some cases, constructing a structure from profiles or bars turns out to be impractical - for example, if it is necessary to close or level a wall in a small room. In this case, the construction of the frame will take away the already scarce space.

The possibility of frameless fastening of gypsum boards to the wall can be carried out under the following conditions:

1. Correspondence of the height of the walls to the length of the gypsum board. The frameless method requires the absence of horizontal seams, so for installation you should select sheets that match or exceed the height of the ceiling.
2. Relatively smooth surfaces. The curvature of the walls should not exceed 20 mm, otherwise the sheets will not be fixed securely and may repeat the configuration of the underlying surface. To achieve this condition, preliminary alignment may be required.
3. Strength. Since with the frameless method there is no gap left between the sheets and the stationary wall and the surfaces are tightly glued to each other, it is important that the base is strong and reliable. Crumbling brickwork or a concrete slab will lead to the rapid destruction of the constructed structure.
4. Favorable conditions. Mold, dampness and walls that freeze in winter will negatively affect the components of plasterboard and destroy the sheets.

If with the frame method it is possible not to process stationary walls in any way, then when installing plasterboard sheets directly on the surface, it is necessary to first clean it of old finishing materials and dust. In addition, it will be necessary to protect the plasterboard from dampness by installing waterproofing in places where there is a possibility of penetration of moisture or fungus.

You can attach gypsum board sheets to the wall in several frameless ways:

• using glue;
• using polyurethane foam;
• using self-tapping screws;
• using dowel nails.

The choice of method will depend on the nature of the walls: the optimal method is determined based on their curvature and the material from which they are constructed.

Towards a concrete wall

Since a concrete wall is usually quite flat, drywall is accepted on it. Before starting work, you should remove dust and degrease the surfaces, and to improve the adhesion of the gypsum mixture, make notches on the concrete using a jigsaw or an ax.

Then materials and tools are prepared:

• plasterboard for walls;
• dry gypsum mixture;
• container for diluting the mixture;
• cutting tools - jigsaw and painting knife;
• notched trowel and trowel;
• a board with a length 30 cm less than the height of the walls;
• roulette;
• level.

Advice. Before starting work on installing gypsum boards to the wall, all engineering work on electrical wiring must be completed.

Assess the curvature of the walls using a level and mark the deepest and most convex places with chalk or pencil. The gluing of sheets begins with the latter, and the first gypsum board, fixed at the highest point of the surface, will become a guideline for the installation level of the rest. If there is a large difference between the existing unevenness, it is recommended to knead a little dry mixture and fill the holes with it.

Algorithm for attaching gypsum boards to glue:

1. The length of the drywall must match the height of the wall. It is recommended to cut sheets only after accurate measurements. Keep in mind that the gypsum board is glued with a small gap in relation to the floor - the distance from it to the bottom edge of the sheet should be about 1.5 cm.
2. The glue is mixed from the dry mixture in small portions in accordance with the instructions on the package. The composition retains its consistency for no more than half an hour, and then begins to harden and loses the necessary adhesion.
3. Apply glue with a notched trowel along the contour on the edges of the sheet in a continuous strip, and use a trowel to make fixing points along the surface, located in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of about 40 cm from each other. The diameter of the glue spot should be about 15 cm.
4. While the glue has not hardened, the sheet is lifted and pressed against the wall. The prepared board is applied with careful pressure along the gypsum board, thereby distributing the glue under it. If necessary, the rule can be additionally tapped with a rubber hammer.
5. The plasterboard sheet is pressed against the wall with spacers at several points for 40 minutes until it is completely glued.
6. Adjacent sheets are attached with a gap of 5-7 mm. To maintain the required gap, you can use wooden wedges.

If the curvature of the concrete is very pronounced, you can get out of the situation by installing beacons made of strips of drywall on the surface. They are placed on glue along the perimeter of the wall, the vertical outer lines are connected at different levels with fishing line. Based on it, you should glue vertical strips of plasterboard in increments of 40-50 cm, if necessary, lifting them above the wall surface with gypsum compound. The main wall sheets of plasterboard are attached to the installed beacons made of gypsum plasterboard strips with glue or self-tapping screws.

Upon completion of the work, the seams between the sheets and the ceiling gap are filled with putty. After this, you can begin to use finishing materials.

To the brick wall

Brick has a number of disadvantages that prevent the use of glue or the screwing method when fastening drywall: the fragility of the material and pronounced unevenness of the masonry. In such cases, it is advisable to install gypsum boards using polyurethane foam.

There are 2 methods of mounting on foam:

1. fixing sheets on the wall with filling the gaps with foam;
2. applying foam to the sheet.

The latter method is used more often; it allows you to control the volume of foam used. The mounting medium continues to expand as it hardens, so when using the first method there is a risk of deformation of the structure under its pressure.

Advice. To attach gypsum boards to brickwork, it is better to use polystyrene foam for mounting. It has good adhesion and does not expand as much.

Fixation with self-tapping screws and foam

The use of this method requires careful measurements and some experience in using polyurethane foam. Before starting work, you should evaluate the curvature of the walls and select screws of different lengths to level out level differences.

1. The gypsum board is drilled out for screws at 9-12 points.
2. The sheet is applied to the wall and the fixation points are marked on the brickwork.
3. On the gypsum board, pieces of foam rubber are temporarily glued in a circle from the holes drilled for self-tapping screws for shock absorption when screwing.
4. The points marked on the wall are drilled out and dowels are driven into them.
5. The plasterboard sheet is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws and wide washers. During the screwing process, you should control the position of the gypsum board using a level.
6. Next to each fastener, 5-6 mm holes are drilled in the sheet of drywall for the attachment of a polyurethane foam cylinder.
7. The balloon nozzle is inserted into the holes, and the gap is carefully filled with foam. The contact patches should be about 10-15 cm.

When the foam dries, you can unscrew the screws and remove the washers. After this, the sheet is again fixed with fasteners so that the caps are slightly sunk into the drywall, and all joints and recesses are fixed.

Gluing sheets

If the brickwork is fairly smooth, you can glue the gypsum boards directly to the wall with foam. Height differences of no more than 20 mm will ensure uniform pressure of the composition and fixation of the sheet.

Important. Polyurethane foam is a fire hazard, so wiring should not pass through this material; a fire will lead to the release of toxic, life-threatening substances.

1. Polyurethane foam is applied directly from the container around the perimeter of the sheet, and then distributed in a snake over the entire surface area.
2. Wait 15 minutes for the foam to spread over the surface and begin to expand again.
3. The sheet is carefully applied to the wall in the intended place and fixed with a system of spacers until the installation composition has completely hardened.

To prevent the gypsum board from deforming due to the secondary expansion of the mounting foam, a sheet of chipboard can be placed under the spacers, approximately . After hardening, the joints are sealed with putty.

Today, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. It is often used to level floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to walls, and also get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before you begin to study such a finishing material as drywall, it is worth understanding what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard plaster and special fillers inside. It is used for a variety of purposes. Sheets with different thicknesses are available for different jobs. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose materials of the appropriate category.

Peculiarities

Today in construction and finishing materials stores you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. To level the walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose “dry” material for such work - drywall.

Today, the problem of uneven walls is familiar to many. Both owners of private houses and city apartments face it. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a team of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many finishing materials cannot be applied to them. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpaper. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not adhere reliably, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials even emphasize unevenness on the walls.

In such cases, you cannot do without perfectly flat and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat appearance. In addition, sheets of this popular material are extremely easy to process and can be coated with almost any canvas and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider more complicated.

When choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which is fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, it is unlikely that you will be able to restore it to its original appearance. That is why ordinary drywall is not suitable for making, for example, arched structures, since it will simply break if slightly bent.

Another distinctive quality of drywall is its multitasking. It is used not only for leveling different bases, but also for making interesting multi-level ceilings, racks with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls of your home.

First, let's take a look at the list of positive qualities of plasterboard sheets:

• They are distinguished by a flat and smooth surface, which is why they are chosen for leveling various substrates.
• The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. A room where the walls are lined with this material will always be warm and cozy.
• Drywall is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It contains no dangerous or harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in decorating children's rooms.
• GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

• Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Thanks to this quality, this material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew.
• Often, consumers buy drywall because it has an affordable price and is used for a variety of purposes.
• Plasterboard walls can be supplemented with various insulation materials (penoplex and mineral wool are often preferred).
• Working with drywall is quite simple. To do this, you do not need to purchase expensive tools.

• Using this finishing material, you can bring to life any bold design ideas. This is why many designers use drywall in their designs.
• Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
• GLA does not emit an unpleasant chemical odor.
• It is processed without problems. For this you can use almost any materials, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

• Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. This can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant fabrics.
• Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
• With the frame method of attaching plasterboard, rough walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and scrupulously using special compounds. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the proliferation of harmful microorganisms.
• Many consumers purchase drywall for renovation because it can be used immediately after purchase, allowing it to sit for 2-3 days without any additional preparation.
• Today, the choice of plasterboard sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

• Regular drywall is not recommended for installation in rooms with high humidity levels. For such conditions, it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to experts, even such drywall in humid conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
• Drywall sheets may begin to crumble, especially under heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, a hanging sink in the bathroom, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight on plaster walls. Otherwise, these things will not stay in place for long, and then they will simply fall off and damage the drywall.

• You need to work with drywall very carefully so as not to damage it. Do not bend this material unless it is arched.
• Drywall on a frame will “eat up” some space in the room, so this method of installing the material will not be suitable for all areas.

How significant the listed disadvantages are - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly follow the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to install drywall on the partitions in your home yourself, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

The following tools will be useful to you:

• special knife for cutting plasterboard sheets;
• special glue (for frameless installation);
• building level, plumb line, special marking cord, tape measure, long ruler (you can take a rule instead), pencil/marker - you will need these tools for marking walls and for competent control of the verticality of surfaces;
• regular and rubber hammers;

• spatula (you can use a trowel instead);
• separate container for mixing the adhesive composition;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;

• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• screws;
• electric drill with mixer attachment;

• roller with long handle;
• soft brush;
• plane (needed for cutting chamfers);
• putty (for applying the finishing layer after all work has been completed).

Materials you will need:

• GKL sheets (regular, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the sheets are planned to be installed);
• galvanized profile or wooden beam (to form a frame with the appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is a universal material. It is used in a wide variety of conditions and can be fixed onto a variety of substrates without problems.

You simply cannot do without this material when it comes to a wooden house or a log structure. In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper leveling. However, it is worth considering that wooden houses always shrink and plasterboards can only be installed in them after this process is completed. Otherwise, the sheets may become damaged or deformed under such conditions.

To install drywall on walls in wooden houses you need:

• provide space for installing insulation (if you, of course, plan to additionally insulate the room);
• have free space for laying communication systems.

Leveling walls in wooden houses is not an easy task. In this case, frame installation would be the best option. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to boards and bars, and then glue drywall onto them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces it is not at all necessary to make a complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such bases using special glue. Such adhesives are found very often in stores today. For example, the high-quality composition “Perlfix” is offered by the well-known company Knauf.

Drywall is often used to level brick walls. Here you can also resort to the usual gluing of material without making a frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out using a level how much the ceilings are curved, after which any dirt, dust and greasy stains are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be absolutely dry, otherwise sufficient adhesion with plasterboard will not be achieved even when using high-quality glue.

If you want to level walls made of foam blocks, then you should turn to the frame installation method. This is explained by the softness of such bases. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before this the foam block must be prepared - finished with primer or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require leveling. In such cases, you can use both frame and frameless installation methods. In the second case, it is necessary to treat the aerated concrete bases with a deep penetration primer. In such cases, the glue must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with foam block floors. Experts recommend using compounds from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall can make walls even in adobe houses. Such buildings are full-fledged composites, built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such construction materials there is no need to talk about perfectly even partitions. For this reason, they simply require leveling sheets such as plasterboard.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or using a frameless method. The choice of one installation option or another largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

To profile

This option for installing drywall is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame consisting of metal profiles fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some nuances of this common installation method:

• Insulation can be placed between the wall and the profile if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, penoplex or polystyrene foam for this purpose. However, we must not forget that rough walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
• In the cavity behind the frame you can hide various engineering communications. These could be water pipes, radiators or electrical wiring.
• Do not forget that in rooms with high levels of humidity it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets will not last very long in such conditions.

Installing plasterboard sheets on a frame has a number of advantages:

• with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
• frame installation allows you to level even ugly crooked walls;
• Before installing the frame and fastening the drywall, the rough partitions do not require preparation (it is enough to walk over them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on a frame:

• First you need to take measurements of the walls and make markings on them for installing metal profiles and hangers.
• Marking for the guides should begin from the top profile. In this case, the necessary indentation is made from the ceiling, then a line is drawn and transferred to the floor using a plumb line.
• Vertical profiles must be placed at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each plasterboard sheet rests on three racks.
• As for the installation of suspensions, here too it is necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

• After this, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, you need to secure guide profiles around the perimeter. To screw them to the ceiling and floor, you need to use a hammer drill, dowels and screws.
• At the points marked during measurements you need to attach hangers.
• Bearings should be inserted into the guide profiles and secured with hangers.
• Fasten all parts as securely and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

• Before installing plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
• When the frame is ready, you should proceed to installing plasterboard sheets on it. They must be mounted in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special 25 mm metal screws. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly “recessed” into the drywall.
• After installing all the sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using reinforcing tape.
• When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely puttied. After this, the surface of the wall finishing will be perfectly flat and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it is worth considering that such a design will take up part of the space in the room, so in a very small room it is better to use the frameless method, if, of course, the ceilings allow this.

Non-profile designs

Frameless fastening of drywall is also called adhesive fastening, since with it the sheets are fixed to the ceilings using a special adhesive.

When choosing this installation option, you must meet the following conditions:

• there should be no fungus or mold on the rough floors;
• There should also be no crumbling areas;

• walls should not be subject to freezing;
• they must be protected from dampness and excess moisture;
• It is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contaminants from the surface of the walls.

Frameless drywall fasteners can only be used if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

You can glue plasterboard to bases in different ways.

The best option must be selected based on the technical condition of the floors:

• The first installation method is designed for smoother surfaces. With it, the plasterboard sheets are fixed directly to the wall using gypsum mounting adhesive. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
• If the ceilings have uneven surfaces, then it is recommended to glue the drywall onto them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length of the back side of the plaster sheet (maintain a distance of 35 cm between the piles of glue), as well as along its perimeter.

Now it’s worth taking a closer look at the instructions for profileless installation of plasterboard sheets:

• First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of plasterboard slabs.
• Then you need to properly prepare the base surface. If the wall has a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
• Now you need to cut out the gypsum board sheets, since you will need not only whole panels, but also pre-prepared inserts.
• To make a straight cut, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make crooked cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

• Prepare the glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum solutions, which harden for quite a long time.
• If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend its drying time, then you should add wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the diluting water.
• Now you can start gluing the drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of ​​irregularities on the base. If the floors are fairly even, then the mixture can be applied to it immediately.
• To eliminate significant curvature, it is worth installing beacons. They can be constructed from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued along the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

• The right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
• After this, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the outer beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
• Align the beacons with the rule.
• Plasterboard sheets must be pressed using the rule set in various positions. Tap the panels with a rubber hammer and adjust their position.
• When the glue has dried, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is a lifeline when it comes to leveling walls. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called prohibitively difficult and energy-consuming.

To give you a more aesthetically pleasing and reliable design, You should consider the following tips and recommendations from professionals:

• It is permissible to install plasterboard boards indoors only after laying the floor coverings. Also, by the time the floors in the room are leveled, all issues regarding the installation of communications and heating systems must be resolved.
• When gluing drywall (using the frameless method), try to avoid cross-shaped joints. It is better to lay out the sheets with an offset.
• Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets during profileless installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
• In order for drywall to adhere securely to the floors, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling or falling apart areas in the walls.

• When using the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for better sealing of all finishing seams). To do this, it is recommended to use a special edge plane.
• It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without being distracted and without wasting time on unnecessary actions.
• Adhesive compositions must be diluted based on the instructions. It must be printed on the packaging.
• Do not over-tighten drywall fasteners as this may warp the fragile material.
• To work with drywall you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool yourself that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

• Pay attention to the temperature conditions during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
• It is recommended to install plasterboard sheets on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after they have been in your home for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

To level walls during repairs, plasterboards are often used. There are two ways to install them - with and without a frame. The first method is more reliable, but it is not suitable for small rooms, since the thickness of the structure reduces the already small size of the room. In this case, attaching drywall to walls without a frame is suitable, as a method that is simpler and less expensive.

The essence of the method is to attach plasterboard sheets to the wall using special adhesives, but provided that the ceiling height does not exceed 3 m, that is, no higher than the length of the sheet. It is performed after complete completion of work that uses water - putty or plaster, as well as when the walls are completely dry.

Preparing the wall

To carry out the work you will need the following equipment and materials:

• Rulers, tape measures and markers for taking measurements;
• Construction or stationery knife for cutting slabs and chamfering;
• Construction level, usually a level lath, rubber hammer;
• A container for mixing glue and a drill with an attachment;
• Primer and construction adhesive.

The complexity of surface preparation depends on the material from which it is made. A convenient option is brickwork, which just needs to be coated with a primer. If you attach it to old plaster, it will eventually begin to fall off and deform the slab from the inside. To eliminate this, all old coatings are removed to a solid base, including whitewash, wallpaper, painting and non-wettable stains, after which the surface is treated with an appropriate primer. If the old base is solid, the preparation procedure will be as follows:

1. “Tapping” the wall with a trowel to identify places where part of the layer may fall off.
2. Removal of old coatings, wallpaper, and weak areas of the coating.
3. Plastering the damaged areas.
4. Cleaning the wall from dust.
5. Primer with deep penetrating compounds.

Before the main work begins, all necessary communications are carried out. High voltage lines must be hidden in grooves and a fire hazard sleeve. Low voltage wires are attached directly to the wall.

Glue mounting

Before direct installation, the main walls are measured to ensure correct cutting of the sheets. The fragments are arranged so as to prevent cross-shaped joints. An adhesive mass is prepared using gypsum putty, mixed to the consistency of sour cream. The mixture is applied to the pre-primed drywall. Based on the degree of unevenness on the wall, the glue is applied as follows:

• If the height difference is less than 4 mm, fixation is carried out with Funenfüller putty, which is applied in a small layer over the entire perimeter;
• With a difference of up to 2 cm the slabs are fixed with Perflix, applied in separate spots with an interval of up to 35 cm;
• With a difference of up to 40 mm in such places, strips of plasterboard 10 cm wide are attached, and the main sheets are attached to them.

The sheet is applied to the wall quickly and carefully. First, the gaskets are installed from the bottom edge, and after installing it in accordance with the marks on the floor, the rest of the part is pressed.

Using a rule or a long level, bulging areas are corrected, which are leveled by light tapping. It is not recommended to knock on the instrument. It is removed, the place is leveled, and checked again. After leveling, the sheet is supported for several hours with a wooden board.

Instead of glue, the fastening compound can be polyurethane foam, which has a low expansion coefficient. But at the same time the sheet is securely fixed. If this is not done, due to the expansion of the foam, bumps will appear that cannot be removed.

If the wall deviations are significant (up to 4 cm), during installation, guides are used, which are attached in places of maximum deviation. Large differences are compensated by a higher amount of glue. In this case, leveling the slab is carried out more carefully, since excessive force can cause the surface to bend. For ease of positioning, you need to mark the floor and walls; this measure will help to avoid mistakes and rework of inaccuracies.

After installation is completed, the joints are glued with sickle tape, and as they dry, putty is applied on top. After drying, the uneven surfaces are sanded with sandpaper, and the surface is cleaned of dust and coated with a primer.

Self-tapping installation

The method is more complex than the previous one, but the fastening is reliable, and the method is successfully used on walls with a large curvature. For this you will additionally need:

• Electric drill and screwdriver;
• Glue and polyurethane foam;
• A set of self-tapping screws and screws with washers with a diameter of more than 1 cm;
• Thick foam.

With the frameless method of installing plasterboard slabs, the ceiling height should not be higher than 3 m, since the technology does not provide for the installation of horizontal joints.

After priming the wall surface with all prepared sheets, the following actions are carried out:

1. The plate is applied to the wall, and holes are drilled in it at a uniform distance from each other at 8-10 points, which are marks;
2. The sheet is removed, and dowels are driven into the drilled holes at the marks;
3. Foam rubber is glued onto the drywall 10-12 cm from the holes, which will act as a shock absorber during installation;
4. The sheet is applied to the wall and secured with screws with washers on them;
5. Using a level, the sheet is installed in a strictly vertical position by screwing or unscrewing the screws;
6. The actions described above are carried out with all plasterboard boards;
7. A hole with a diameter of up to 7 mm is made near each screw for injection of mounting foam for the purpose of fixation. Its supply is carried out blindly, and you first need to experiment with the dosage to get a spot with a diameter of up to 15 cm;
8. All slabs are fixed with simultaneous control of their position using the building level;
9. The screws are removed after the foam has hardened, and the remaining holes are filled with putty;
10. The work is completed by standard puttying of the seams and then sanding them with sandpaper after drying.

Frameless leveling of walls with plasterboard slabs is a complex technology that requires knowledge of the properties of the materials used and skill in working in this area. You need to be able to choose putties and glue based on the conditions of the work and the characteristics of the surface on which installation will be carried out. You need to take on this task yourself if you have confidence in your abilities. Otherwise, it is faster and cheaper to entrust the repair to professionals.