How to fight insects on the lawn? Getting rid of ants on your property in no time: the best methods The lawn is turning yellow. What to do

Lawn owners very often face a fairly common problem. Ants on the lawn, how to get rid of them - the question is swirling in the heads of discouraged owners. Indeed, this problem is ubiquitous, so you need to try to find a solution to it as soon as possible.

At first glance, ants seem to be very useful insects. They swarm every now and then, destroying various caterpillars, insects, and other pests. What's wrong with them then? Why did they not please the summer residents? The answer is quite simple. The first thing these hard workers do is build a home for themselves. Often it is located in the most inappropriate place, and where can one find a suitable place for the earth that has been shoveled and riddled with small holes?

Another problem is that lawns are most often inhabited by black ants, which are not hunters, but gatherers. They collect the sticky liquid that aphids secrete, so they, like no one else, are interested in seeing that the aphid population in your area increases. As a result, in addition to the problem with annoying bugs, you will also provide yourself with the fight against a serious pest.

What to do with the anthill? A systematic struggle is needed, so if you are not ready for it, you are doomed to defeat. The first thing that can help is mechanical impact on anthills. In simple words, they need to be constantly destroyed, and then the insects will be constantly busy rebuilding. But the problem is that this method is not ideal and can take a lot of time.

Another way to fight is with chemicals, which are available in abundance in markets and gardening stores. They act quickly and effectively, but, as you know, the medal has a downside. Chemicals can have a negative impact on young grass growth, so if your lawn is young enough, it could be seriously damaged.

It seems that nothing will help, but don’t despair, there is a way that will help you get rid of uninvited guests once and for all! It was invented by the Lord God himself, and it is extremely simple. Ants, like all living things, will not be able to survive the flood, especially since no one will build an ark of the day. Your task is to get to the very heart of the anthill - the uterus. The fate of the entire army depends on it, because there is a strict hierarchy there. Having lost the queen, the stay of the entire community will lose its meaning, and the survivors will soon leave your site. Therefore, quickly grab a hose and start filling the anthill. Don't think you can do it quickly because you may need a lot of water. There is no exact figure, but it could be 50 liters or 250 liters. It is also very important to apply a strong pressure, which would be guaranteed to help you get to the very center.

The best thing about the latter method is that next year your lawn will have its usual appearance. There will be no trace of uninvited guests on it. Nothing else will remind you that there were ants on the lawn, and you have learned how to get rid of them once and for all.

On the one hand, these hardworking insects command respect due to their organization, cohesion and discipline. They build anthills by making passages in the ground or making an embankment, and can also settle in the wall of a building. However, when an anthill appears in a garden, in a garden bed or in a flower bed, a large invasion of insects annoys a person. In addition, ants breed aphids; for them, these small insect pests are like cash cows; the ants feed on the sweet secretions of aphids and specifically spread these pests to plants for reproduction. To remove aphids, first you will have to get rid of ants on the site.

It’s a fact, but aphids without ants do not spread throughout the garden so quickly and die under unfavorable conditions I. Aphids settle in the garden on apple, pear, cherry, currant and other plants. Small pests prefer to live on young leaves and shoots, sucking out their juice, causing the leaves to curl and the shoots to stop growing. The aphids multiply quickly, and the ants disperse the larvae into new plants that have not been colonized by aphids. Ants, as true hosts, protect aphids from other insects and keep several individuals in the anthill in winter for reproduction the next season. When severely infested with aphids, garden trees and shrubs do not grow and do not produce crops.

When treating plants with various aphids, it is also necessary to take measures to evict the ants from the site. Having eradicated aphids from trees and shrubs, the ants will soon colonize new colonies of pests on them.

Ants independently choose a place to settle and can build an anthill in a flowerbed, garden bed, greenhouse, garden, in the wall of a building, at the roots of garden trees and shrubs, or under a garden path, from where it is difficult to expel unwanted guests. As the ants multiply, they will enlarge the anthill, making more passages deeper or increasing the earthen mounds. If you do not immediately drive the ants out of the area, their number will increase and over time it will be more difficult to get rid of the ant nest.

Garden ants require sweet carbohydrates and proteins for nutrition. Ants get sweets not only from aphid secretions; they can eat strawberries, raspberries, and also love sugary vegetables and root vegetables - carrots, beets, pumpkin. In flower beds, insects feast on delicate flower buds, Ants can often be seen on peony buds or roses. To get proteins for their diet, ants destroy many insect pests - various caterpillars, moths, cutworms, bark beetles and sawflies.

Ants create a huge family; in their society, each individual has its own role. One anthill can live from several thousand to a million ants. Adults are divided by profession - these are soldiers, builders, porters, scouts, nannies. Ants reproduce with the help of females and males; during the mating period they have wings and fly up to mate. After fertilization, the female sheds her wings and the males die.

Ant female or the queen can live up to 20 years, an incredible age for insects, during which time she can give birth to more than 100 million worker ants and up to tens of thousands of new females and males. There may be not one female in an anthill, but several. The queen is not the main one in the anthill; it is the worker ants who select the most fertile females, settle them in the passages, feed them, and also leave the required number of larvae for each profession.

Folk ways to remove ants from a site:

You can get rid of ants in your garden using simple folk remedies without using dangerous drugs.

Many people probably tried to destroy the anthill or poison these insects, but these hard workers restore their home in a matter of days, and it is simply impossible to destroy an army of thousands of ants. You can get rid of ants on your property by repelling them with various odors. so that they move to a new place or walk around protected plants. Ants do not like the strong odors of many plants - garlic, tomato tops, mint, anise, tansy, wormwood. To scare away ants, place sprigs of fragrant greenery around the anthill and plants for protection.

Some people drive out ants using odorous herring heads, lemon, cloves, mustard powder or ground black pepper. However, these products do not guarantee that the ants will leave and not return, since the smell of herbs and other products will disappear over time.

The main way to evict ants from a site is to dig up an anthill and move it to a forest or other remote place. You can dig an anthill if it is not located in the roots of trees or shrubs, next to plants, under a path or in a wall. You need to dig tunnels deep to the lower levels where the ants place their eggs and larvae. Pour the anthill into a bucket, greasing its top with vegetable oil, or into a bag so that the insects do not crawl out. You need to dig out the anthill in the evening, when all the workers have returned home.

You can remove ants from dug holes under tiles of garden paths or in small cracks in walls and in greenhouses by covering the exits from the anthill with salt or soda on top. The insects will not be able to remove the fine powder away from their home and will go off to look for a new home.

Wood ash also effectively repels ants and is an excellent fertilizer. To protect plants from ants and other pests, place a palm-wide layer of ash around the plants or beds in a ring; ants will not pass through such a barrier.

If you regularly fill the anthill with a hose so that all the passages are filled and the ants do not have time to dry them, sooner or later they will leave the unfavorable place, but they may move nearby.

Ways to get rid of ants forever:

A simple folk method to get rid of ants on your property using yeast is effective. Take a piece or a tablespoon of dry yeast, mix it with a little water and a spoon of sugar. Pour the yeast into small cups or jars and, covering it from the sun and rain, place it around the anthill; the ants will disappear in a couple of days.

Anyone who does not feel sorry for numerous insects can try remove the anthill with boiling water. It is better to fill the anthills with boiling water in the spring so that the hot water fills the lower passages and the eggs and larvae of the new generation of ants are cooked in them. By carrying out this operation monthly, you will curb the massive reproduction of ants.

You can reduce the number of ants and completely destroy them using poisonous baits. Ants love to eat sweets, prepare sweet syrup, jam or melt honey by adding a little yeast (20 g) and boric acid (5 g) per half liter. You can mix sweets with other chemicals, the ants will eat them and feed the larvae, and in a couple of days they will die.

Can pour vegetable oil into the ant passages, insects cannot digest its smell. The strong smell of kerosene repels ants; do not pour it into the soil; it is better to soak rags and place them around the anthill or around plants so that the ants avoid them.

Sprinkling quicklime on the anthill, insects will be forced to flee from their home, a carbolic acid solution also works.

How to get rid of ants in the garden:

To h To protect garden trees from ants and prevent aphids from appearing on the leaves, wrap the trunks before branching with adhesive tape to catch flies. Insects will stick to this barrier.

The trunks of garden trees can be wrapped in foil; its slippery surface will prevent ants from climbing up to the crown of the tree.

Repel ants from garden trees and shrubs fragrant linseed oil will help. Soak wool in oil and tie it around tree trunks in the garden, or mix soot with linseed oil and coat the bark of trees and shrubs at the base with this mixture.

While some folk remedies for ants may fail, chemical insecticides destroy ants outright. Nowadays, many anti-ant preparations are sold in the form of powder, gel, granules or emulsion for dilution in water - these are Antiant, Anteater, Ant, Muratox, Thunder and others. All chemicals must be used with precautions.

Many housewives get rid of flower beds, replacing them with a lawn, in order to spend less time on weeding and maintenance. But in fact, you need to look after lawn grass no less than roses or ornamental shrubs. With poor quality care, grasses can become sick and be affected by pests, which is why their decorative value is greatly reduced. As a result, instead of a beautiful lawn, you will end up with a lifeless area covered with bald spots and yellowed blades of grass, which spoils the entire design. It is easier to prevent any lawn diseases than to then restore the turf from scratch. Let's consider the most effective measures for the prevention and treatment of lawn grasses affected by diseases or spoiled by pests.

Every doctor will tell you that maintaining health is much easier than getting rid of old diseases. This applies not only to people, but also to plants. If the disease reaches an advanced stage, then the only option for saving the grass is to cut out pieces of the affected turf and completely replace the soil in this area. Meanwhile, most diseases can be prevented with proper care. So, the main measures to keep the turf healthy:

Elimination of excess moisture and stagnant water

Increased soil moisture is the best factor for the development of fungal infections. The more compacted the soil, the harder it is for the roots to breathe. If you notice that water forms puddles on the lawn after rains, you need to carry out aeration with special devices or ordinary garden forks, pricking the soil in many places.

Good access of oxygen to the roots makes the turf more developed and resistant to most infections, and aeration helps avoid moisture stagnation

Timely cleaning of felt

Dying blades of grass gradually accumulate on the lawn and interfere with the normal growth of the rest of the grass. Their drying stems cover the ground with a continuous carpet and prevent normal ventilation. This results in excess moisture and damping off of the roots. Timely combing of the lawn with a rake will help to avoid the problem. If they mow with a trimmer, they comb them at the same time as harvesting the mown grass. But owners who mow with lawn mowers must additionally pick up a rake to comb out the felt.

Dying blades of grass accumulate near the ground in a continuous carpet, creating excellent conditions for the proliferation of infection spores, since it is always damp under the felt

Competent fertilizing with fertilizers

There is a rule that the closer to autumn, the less nitrogen needs to be added to the soil. Nitrogen causes an excess of green mass, weakening the root system, and this is undesirable in the fall. Before winter, it is the roots that must grow healthy in order to produce good grass growth next spring. Therefore, we add nitrogen in the spring and until mid-summer, and by autumn we feed only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Preventive measures in winter

In winter, the root system of grasses becomes fragile and quickly deteriorates if you walk on it as actively as in summer or autumn. Ideally, in winter you should not step on the lawn at all, but sometimes it is located just on the way to the outbuildings or gate. In this case, place boards on the snow and walk on them. This is a more gentle option than trampling frozen turf with shoes.

If you apply all of the above measures regularly, but the lawn is still not pleasing with its appearance, you need to figure out what disease or pest is destroying it. The sooner you start the fight, the faster you will destroy the infection before it takes over the entire lawn.

The most common diseases of lawn grasses

Plants have different susceptibility to infections. Of the lawn grasses, the most affected by diseases are meadow bluegrass and all types of fescue. If they are part of a mixture planted on your lawn, then care should be especially careful. Among the most common turf diseases are the following:

Disease #1 – fusarium

The disease is transmitted through contaminated soil or through the air, so if your neighbors lawn is already sick, the spores will reach you. The period of development of infection is from late autumn to early spring. The causative agent, the fusarium fungus, is very resistant to low temperatures. It will survive at -50°, although it reaches its greatest development at temperatures from zero to -5°, during thaws and wet weather. Signs of the disease appear in early spring. On a thawed lawn, you will see silvery or slightly pinkish patches of glued grass. The diameter of the spots is from 2 cm to 20. Because the grass appears to be dusted with snow, the infection is otherwise called “snow mold.” Gradually the blades of grass dry out and become straw.

If the spots are small, then you should immediately treat them with a systemic fungicide, such as carbendazim. Large spots indicate severe damage to the turf. In this case, the entire area is sprayed with fungicide, and the turf from the affected areas is completely removed along with the top layer of soil and re-sown with grass.

The most common infection called snow mold, or fusarium, is easily recognized by the silver-gray coating on the blades of grass, reminiscent of cobwebs or slightly melted snow.

Disease #2 – powdery mildew

A very well-known infection that affects many garden crops. It develops actively in wet summers. It appears as a white coating on the blades of grass, resembling cotton wool or foam. It gradually darkens and thickens, and at the same time the blades of grass dry out.

Most often, moisture and excess nitrogen fertilizers are to blame for the appearance of powdery mildew. Stop fertilizing the lawn, treat it with a fungicide and comb it thoroughly with a fan rake. Before winter, treat again with a fungicide, then be sure to mow it to prevent the fungus from overwintering on the stems, and treat it with a chemical again. In spring, carry out comprehensive fertilizing.

Flakes of white foam on the blades of grass are a signal that powdery mildew has settled on the lawn. And it’s better to start fighting it as early as possible

Disease #3 – rust

The disease has several varieties, but all of them are easy to detect on grass stems by their different shades of reddish-yellow tones. From a distance the lawn looks affected by rusty spots. Most often, infection is caused by low light in the lawn and a lack of minerals in the soil. Fertilize the turf thoroughly; in dry summers, arrange regular watering, and mow the affected areas after 2-3 days until healthy stems grow.

If the lawn begins to turn yellow not in late autumn, but in spring or summer, it means that it has been affected by an infectious disease such as rust. The reason is lack of nutrition to the roots

Disease #4 – red threading

The most eloquent proof of an unkempt lawn. Reminds us of itself in May or autumn. The grass begins to turn pink in some places, and if you look closely, this color is given to the stems by filamentous red spores entwining the aboveground part of the grass. The appearance of the lawn immediately deteriorates, and individual areas gradually dry out. There is no special fight against this disease. It is enough to feed the turf, comb it to remove debris, and improve aeration.

Pinkish spots on the lawn are formed as a result of the activity of harmful spores that entwine the aboveground part of the grass, leading to the death of the plants

If there are only a few mushrooms on the lawn, then they are not dangerous, and are even beneficial for the grass, since the mycelium feeds the roots with useful microelements

In addition to diseases, many living creatures encroach on the lawn, but insects play the most insignificant role among them. Damage caused to grass by bread mite, wireworm or Swedish fly is not so significant, and if the turf is healthy, it quickly heals the damaged areas.

More serious lawn pests include moles, ants and earthworms. Their tireless activity leads to the appearance of mounds of earth on the lawn, the grass under which naturally dies.

The more nutritious the soil under the lawn grass, the faster the mole will settle there, looking for prey in the form of earthworms

You can find options for getting rid of moles from our article “”. We will look in more detail at how to get rid of ants and earthworms.

War with ants: scare away and poison

Ant mounds can appear on the lawn only in two cases: if there are fruit trees nearby where they can graze aphids, and if the grass is planted on sand. It is easy to make a deep anthill in it. To destroy the entire “herd”, the easiest way is to treat the anthill with a strong chemical. Gels are especially good, since they just need to be applied to the ant path and dropped in several places on the top of the anthill. The insects will drag the “delicacy” deep and feed it to everyone, including the queens. Tomorrow the hill will be strewn with corpses. All you have to do is level the soil and sow the grass.

If ants are frequent guests on your lawn, then it is better to fight them by repelling them. You can sprinkle ground red pepper or cinnamon on the lawn. They do not harm the grass, but insects cannot tolerate strong odors.

Sandy soils are a real treasure trove for ants. They are capable of building anthills of enormous height in them if measures are not taken to scare them away

Earthworms: moving them to the garden

Sometimes there are a lot of earthworms on the lawn. More precisely, we see not them, but traces of activity - holes all over the lawn and piles of excrement. If no one walks on the lawn, the mounds will quickly disappear. But on the lawn, where the owners are used to relaxing, such places will be trampled and the blades of grass will be crushed. As a result, bald spots will appear.

It is not customary to destroy earthworms, because they perfectly loosen the soil. You just need to force them to get off the lawn and into the nearest flower bed or vegetable garden. To do this, stop watering the lawn and add sand to it. Worms do not like dry places and will crawl to where it is more humid. You can also wait for a heavy rainfall and go to the lawn immediately after it. The rain will flood the worms' passages, and they will crawl out in search of oxygen. This is where you will take them warm. Collect it in a jar and transfer it to the beds.

Earthworms perfectly ventilate the soil and improve its drainage properties, but the appearance of a lawn dotted with mounds of soil is not very aesthetically pleasing.

Video “do-it-yourself lawn repair”

Dogs who dig holes also cause a lot of damage to the grass, but this is the fault of the owner himself, who allows the animal to run freely around the area.

A beautiful green lawn is very attractive to pests. Thanks to watering and courtship, excellent conditions for reproduction are created here. Moist soil, young roots, fresh shoots - all this is not only a habitat, but also a source of food for harmful insects and their larvae.

The main measures for treating and protecting garden plants from pests are applied in the spring. The lawn is no exception. Spring is the breeding season not only for animals and birds, but also for insects. Eggs of beetles and butterflies laid in nutritious soil develop quickly. Therefore, the main goal is to apply the treatment in the spring, preventing unwanted insects and pests from appearing on the lawn.

Insects that harm the lawn are divided into two groups: surface insects that feed on greenery, and those that live in the soil. Accordingly, various pest control methods are used. Disturbance of the grass on the lawn indicates a disease or the presence of unwanted animals.

There are many chemicals and products available on the market to eliminate pest problems. It is best to avoid using pesticides if possible, as they soak into the soil and then begin to evaporate within a few days. There is no need to explain that breathing such air is not the most beneficial activity.

One of the most common pests. Leads an underground lifestyle. The length of an adult is 6 - 9 cm. The front pair of legs of a mole cricket is an excellent tool for digging up soil. The appearance of the mole rat is complemented by a powerful chest shell. The mole cricket's abdomen is soft and fusiform. The color is brown, the abdomen is yellowish on the underside. The favorite habitats of mole crickets are the banks of reservoirs and frequently watered beds.

The mole cricket feeds on almost everything that comes in its way: earthworms, vegetable roots, insect larvae, young plant roots. It breeds several generations per season. Many people mistake cockchafer larvae for mole cricket larvae. These are two different pests. The mole cricket lays eggs; if you dig up the nest after development, you can find many young individuals 1 cm long. At this age, they already begin to move in search of food, digging up the lawn up and down.

You can find out about the presence of a pest on the site by characteristic passages in the upper layers of the soil. On warm summer nights, during the breeding season, the mole cricket makes sounds reminiscent of the chirping of a cricket. Hedgehogs and moles are excellent mole cricket hunters.

There are two ways to combat this pest: poison the top layer of soil with chemicals (or put a special poison in the tunnels) and install mechanical or electrical repellers. A mole repeller that produces noise and vibrations is also an irritant for mole crickets.

May beetle larvae

They are not found very often on lawns, but when multiplied en masse, they can cause significant harm. Female cockchafers lay eggs in nutrient-rich soil, where they hatch into large white larvae with a yellow head. The larvae feed on young roots of lawn grass. If there is a massive presence of the pest, only the use of insecticides will help.

Caterpillars: butterfly larvae

Butterflies lay eggs on grass leaves, and later hungry caterpillars emerge from them. These caterpillars feed mainly on greens. In most cases, caterpillars accumulate locally, which makes it easy to collect them by hand.

If there are a lot of caterpillars, there is an original method of pest control. Place a bird feeder with seeds in the immediate vicinity of a cluster of insects. Tits and sparrows will quickly get rid of the problem, without any chemical treatments.

Click beetle larvae. The larva resembles a worm, but is harder to the touch. Body length is about two centimeters. Wireworms live in the soil, feeding on young roots of lawn grass. When the pest appears, the grass growth slows down, and spots of yellowing grass appear on the lawn. They are destroyed exclusively by spraying with chemicals. It will not be possible to replace pesticides, since wireworms live underground. Digging up the entire lawn to get rid of the pest is not the best option.

The development period of a click beetle from egg to adult takes 5 years. In early spring, the female comes to the surface and lays eggs on the surface of the ground. The first year the larva does not cause harm. As the wireworm grows up, it begins to eat plant roots. After 3-4 years, the larva pupates, and in early spring an adult beetle appears on the surface of the earth, ready to repeat the life cycle.

For comfortable development of larvae, moisture and the availability of nutrients are needed. Therefore, lawn turf, rich in nutrients, is an attractive habitat for wireworms.

The wireworm's natural enemies are moles and shrews.

Ants

Ants do not eat the root system and lawn grass. Problems arise from the fact that they are developing a lawn for their residence. Heaps of soil worsen the appearance and cover the grass, numerous underground passages dry out the root system and the lawn begins to die. If there are a small number of insects, you can get rid of them as follows: place a jar of jam or sugar syrup near the anthill, and add ant poison to the treat. After a couple of days the ants will disappear.

There are several other simple ways to combat ants. If the anthill has already destroyed part of the lawn and there is nothing to lose, pour boiling water over them or sprinkle with boric acid.

It is important to remember that the use of insecticides is highly discouraged. Read the instructions for use of the medications carefully. Keep children and animals away from the lawn for a week after treatment. The best pest control methods are natural methods.

Lawn owners very often face a fairly common problem. Ants on the lawn, how to get rid of them - the question is spinning in the heads of discouraged owners. Indeed, this problem is ubiquitous, so you need to try to find a solution to it as soon as possible.

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Lawn and ants - answers from experts 7dach.ru

How can I get rid of ants on my lawn? - answers from 7dach.ru experts

The lawn is turning yellow. What to do?

A green lawn, pleasing to the eye with its aristocratic appearance, creates the impression that the owners do not care about its maintenance. In fact, it takes a lot of effort to grow and maintain lush green grass. It is doubly unpleasant for owners when the fruit of their labor begins to die, and they wonder why the lawn is turning yellow and what to do to keep the grass green.

The grass cover has shallow roots, so their damage, lack of moisture or nutrition in the soil leads to the fact that the lawn dries out and turns yellow.

An infestation of ants also poses a threat to it. Although these insects themselves are harmless, there are some subspecies, such as red turf ants, that damage roots by gnawing them.

How to keep your lawn green?

To prevent the lawn from turning yellow due to weakening of plants or an invasion of ants, care for it begins in early spring, as soon as the snow has melted. After wintering, it needs to be combed with a fan rake, getting rid of dry grass felt, which prevents the germination of fresh grass. Then you should puncture the turf to allow air to reach the roots - the thicker the punctures, the better. This is painstaking work, but it is necessary to do it in order to avoid the death of roots from insufficient aeration in the future.

Most often, the grass layer dries out due to insufficient watering. How much water is needed and how often to water the lawn can be easily determined by remembering from the botany course how plants drink. They absorb water from moistened soil after the water has been absorbed. Those. the volume of water should be sufficient to moisten the soil completely, but there should be no stagnation. Neither drying nor waterlogging of the soil is acceptable.

If the lawn has just begun to grow after hibernation and has lost color, it means it does not have enough nutrition. But fertilizing without understanding the purpose and knowledge of the preparations can cause more harm than good. It is better to use a ready-made balanced fertilizer, composed in equal proportions of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen provides nutrition and enhances green growth. Phosphorus helps build a strong root system. Potassium gives plants strength and power, increasing resistance to drought. Fertilizer feeding should be done regularly, starting in early spring, strictly following the instructions on the package - excess will burn the plants.

If the lawn has already turned yellow and you want to correct the situation, you need an ambulance. The cheapest effective fertilizer that will keep your landscape looking green for 1-2 weeks is ammonium sulfate. It must be applied to the yellowed lawn, after moistening the soil. After fertilizing with ammonium sulfate, a balanced fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is applied a few weeks later to consolidate the result.

Knowing the secrets of proper mowing will help you get rid of common mistakes and prevent the death of the grass. Haircuts should be regular, only with a sharp blade and not too short (not lower than 6 cm). Perhaps the main mistake in lawn care is excessively short mowing, which leads to weakening and death of plants. Their stems are also seriously injured by poorly sharpened lawn mower blades.

How to get rid of ants on the lawn?

Freshly cut grass is vulnerable to ant invasion, which can also damage its roots. Getting rid of insects is difficult: sprinkling insecticides on a lawn that is intended for healthy recreation is not always acceptable. You can drive out their colony by pouring water or a decoction of herbs: ants do not like pungent odors. Chemicals are used in extreme cases.

With careful care and maintenance, the lawn will delight you with its lush greenery throughout three seasons - spring, summer and autumn.