How to use tile grout. Grouting tile joints in the bathroom with your own hands: secrets of professional builders. Preparing the necessary tools

The modern building materials market offers a huge selection of a wide variety of solutions, however, the undeniable leaders have been identified a very long time ago. Ceramic tiles are rightfully considered one of the best materials for finishing walls and floors.

The tiled surface is characterized by a long service life, aesthetic appearance and practicality. you can choose tiles of any color and turn the most sophisticated design idea into reality. Among other things, the popularity of ceramic tiles is explained by the fact that they are quite easy to work with and can be laid with your own hands. An integral stage of tile laying work is grouting the joints. To make this process as easy and quick as possible, you need to know what grouts are and how to use them correctly.

Assortment of grouts on the modern market

The grout can be chosen to match the color of the tile.

After the work associated with laying the tiles is completed, the joints must be grouted. Using grout, the surface can be given a complete and most aesthetically pleasing appearance.

Before using grout, you need to choose the most suitable composition available on the market today. Thus, cement-based compositions are sold in the form of a dry mixture. This mixture must be diluted with liquid latex or plain water immediately before starting work. Ready-made formulations are also available for sale. It is more convenient to use grout that is immediately ready for use, but it is much more expensive.

Cement grout for tile joints is usually made from Portland cement. The composition also includes special additives. All cement-based grouts can be divided into the following main groups:

• compositions based on industrial cement;
• grout based on a mixture of Portland cement and latex;
• compositions based on dry hardener.

To finish the joints, you can use a grout made from epoxy resin and hardener. This composition makes the seams more impact-resistant and makes them resistant to a variety of aggressive chemical influences. This grout is quite expensive. Its use is only advisable for finishing retail and industrial premises.

In addition to its high cost, epoxy grout can be inconvenient for home use, because... it is characterized by excessive viscosity and requires certain working skills. There are a number of restrictions that must be taken into account when using such grout. The main ones are: the thickness of the tiles should be at least 1.2 cm, and the width of the joint should be at least 0.6 cm. If you laid tiles and used epoxy grout without taking these requirements into account, be prepared for rapid damage to at least the appearance of the surface. The fact is that this composition simply does not penetrate into narrower seams. To ensure that the rubbed surface looks beautiful and lasts as long as possible, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

The process of grouting joints involves their mandatory treatment with sealant. This treatment protects the tile surface from excessive moisture absorption and staining.

If you used unglazed tiles for repairs, then its entire surface must be covered with liquid sealant. This substance contains silicone, acrylic or varnish. Therefore, when choosing a specific sealant, be sure to consider the type of tile, as well as the material you decide to use for grouting.

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How to choose the correct seam width?

The fundamental factor when choosing the width of the grout joint is the personal preferences of the home owner. Many people prefer narrow tile joints. If tiles measuring 10-30 cm were used to finish the surface, then the most optimal joint width will be about 3 mm. Sometimes the same seam is made when installing elements measuring 60 cm. If irregularly shaped tiles are used for work, then it is better to leave a larger distance between the individual elements. Just take into account the fact that the width of the seam should not exceed 1.2 cm, because... a wider seam can crack very quickly.

However, the seam should not be too narrow, because this significantly complicates the grouting procedure. As a result, the necessary tightness of the seams may not be achieved, which is why they will allow moisture to pass under the tiles. According to the recommendations of professionals, the distance between individual tiles should be such that it can be filled with any of the existing grout.

Before you begin the grouting process, prepare everything you need for work:

• paint roller (a small artist's brush will also work);
• jointing (it can be made from a toothbrush or stick, sharpening one of its ends);
• clean cloth;
• sponge;
• rubber spatula;
• plywood;
• bucket;
• personal protective equipment (rubber gloves, goggles and respirator).

Grouting is performed in the following sequence:

• first the composition is prepared;
• the prepared solution is kept until the required level of water absorption is achieved;
• the grout is thoroughly mixed again;
• the finished solution is distributed along the tile joints;
• Excess solution is removed.

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How to prepare a good solution?

In the vast majority of cases, dry grout is used. This composition must be mixed with water or special liquid latex additives.

Any liquid must be added exactly in such an amount that would be sufficient to prepare a freely distributed and plastic mixture. When mixing the solution, adhere to the proportions specified by the manufacturer.

During the preparation of the grout mixture, the dry component is added to the liquid, and not vice versa. Initially, you need to use about 75% of the liquid given in the instructions. After adding all the dry components to the solution, you need to add the remaining 25% liquid. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the consistency of the mixture.

It is most convenient to prepare the solution using an electric stirrer. You can use a trowel for this. If a stirrer is used, then during operation it must be completely immersed in the solution. This will prevent the penetration of air, which, if it gets into the tile grout, will reduce its strength. Make sure that the blade speed is no higher than 300 rpm.

After all the components are thoroughly mixed, the solution should be allowed to brew for 10 minutes, and then it can be safely used for its intended purpose.

First of all, let's figure it out - when do you need to grout tile joints? Typically, craftsmen advise starting this work no earlier than a day after installation is completed, but you shouldn’t put it off for long. And this period is determined for many reasons:

• On the second day after completion of installation, the adhesive composition has not yet completely “set” and it is possible to easily clean off dirt and stains missed the day before;
• The moisture remaining in the tiles contributes to better absorption of the grout composition, forming a single surface. On the contrary, special soaking of completely dry joints only leads to an increase in water in the grout, making it liquid and less elastic. But such a mixture is both more problematic to apply and more difficult to distribute evenly.
• It is not recommended to leave tile joints open for a long time due to the possibility of contamination. Experience shows that small particles of debris and even settled dust significantly complicate the application of any mixtures or coatings. And if we are talking about a room where other repair work is being carried out, then it is very difficult to ensure cleanliness, especially on tiles laid on the floor. Therefore, if you don’t want to add problems to yourself, you shouldn’t put off grouting.

Traditionally, the color of the grout is selected according to the color of the tile. According to generally accepted design rules, more than two primary colors are not used in the interior of one room. Therefore, some deviations in the intensity of the shades of grout and tiles are allowed, but not a difference in color. When combining tiles of different colors, as well as when using decorative inserts, you should stock up on grout in the appropriate colors.

If you cannot find grout on sale that matches the color of the tile, then the problem can be solved by making it yourself. To do this, take a white mixture and add to it the required amount of color for water-based paint. By gradually mixing a certain color, you can give the grout the desired shade.

There is one secret here: the color of the wet solution is more intense than the one obtained when the mixture dries. When adjusting saturation, you need to remember this feature in order to select the desired color as accurately as possible.

For white floor tiles, it is more prudent to immediately choose a light gray grout - since when using the floor it is very difficult to achieve its ideal whiteness.

Depending on what methods of grouting tiles you plan to use, you may need the appropriate tools: a container with a volume of no more than 1.5-2 liters (a small plastic bucket or bowl); a convenient metal spatula for mixing the finished mixture, a foam sponge, a clean rag and a bucket of water. But the main tool in the work will be a special plastic spatula with a rubber tip or a cheaper option - a rubber spatula, although such savings are not always justified.

The technology used for grouting ceramic tiles and calculating the amount of material

As when calculating other building mixtures, it is quite difficult to calculate the expected grout consumption in advance. Even the numbers indicated by manufacturers on the packaging very often differ, and the most unpleasant thing is when the mixture unexpectedly runs out during operation, absolutely not justifying the declared consumption rates.

To reduce such costs when purchasing grout, you should consider:

• Tile texture. It is more difficult to collect excess mixture from a raised surface, so the grout consumption will be greater.
• Tile sizes. It's simple math - the larger the area of ​​each fragment, the fewer seams on the surface. Thus, when grouting joints between small tiles, more mixture is consumed, and vice versa - the larger the tile, the less grout will be used.
• The width of the seams. It depends on the sizes used when laying the crosses.

For calculations, take as a basis the ratio of 400 g of mixture per 1 sq.m of standard size tiles laid, adding or reducing the amount of grout depending on the above conditions.

When all the materials and tools are ready, you need to understand how to use tile grout.

The main stage is applying grout

First things first, you need to prepare the mixture. This is done immediately before starting work, since the solution is not stored for long and hardens after 15-30 minutes. For the same reason, it is prepared in small quantities, especially if there are few skills in the work. Dilute the dry mixture with clean water according to the instructions. And at this stage it is very important to mix the components correctly, otherwise you can spoil the material - either a solution that is too thin or too thick is not suitable for work. After stirring the mixture, let it stand for about five minutes, and then mix thoroughly again. That's it, the solution is ready! Let's take the spatula!

When the processing of the tile seams after grouting is completed, the surface is left to dry completely. Usually, provided the average daily room temperature is 16-26 degrees and relatively low humidity, an hour or an hour and a half is enough. But a decrease in temperature by 3-5 degrees can delay this process.

As for the readiness of the floor tiles for use, although the grout in the joints dries in an hour, you can still walk or place furniture on the floor no earlier than three hours later. The fact is that small specks or sand that accidentally fall into a weak grout solution can disrupt the integrity of a neatly executed seam.

Final work

When the grout has completely dried, it’s time to remove the remaining white deposits and finally put the tiled surface in order.

The intensity and amount of plaque on the tiles depends on how thoroughly the foam sponge was washed and how often the water in the bucket was changed. But even if the tiles need a good cleaning, it is not difficult to do.

The best and most effective way is to use clean running water from a hose – it’s quick, clean and there’s no need to scrub anything. But it is not always practical to use this method. Therefore, the “dry” cleaning method is more often used. To do this, use a thick, preferably felt, rag, which is used to rub the surface, removing the remaining mixture. The problem can only arise with cleaning the surfaces of grooved, textured or matte tiles. And here special cleaners will help, which can usually be found in the same stores where grout is purchased.

Having finished laying tiles in the kitchen, you proceed to the next stage of work. This is grouting of ceramic tiles. This step is very important, and if you know how to grout the tiles correctly, you will be able to hide some installation defects. If the grout is done poorly, it will ruin even the perfect tile installation.

Modern technology for laying tiles involves grouting the joints at the final stage of work.

Make sure the tile adhesive is completely dry before you begin grouting. The tile joints should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt, and all remaining separators (crosses) should be removed. Some manufacturers claim that crosses can be left in the seams and covered with grout. But craftsmen do not advise doing this, since the layer of grout above the cross will be thinner, which means its color will be different, which can ruin the appearance of the seam.

If you were working with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away. If the tiles are unglazed, the top and side surfaces of each tile must be moistened. This is done so that the unglazed surface does not absorb moisture from the grout. You can moisten the surface of the tiles using a garden sprayer. The main thing is not to overdo it with moisturizing, because puddles of water remaining on the surface of the tiles or in the seams can damage the grout, and it will subsequently begin to crack. To dispel your doubts about grouting unglazed tiles, it is better to consult grout manufacturers.

Grouting tile joints: video instructions

What type of grout is used for tile joints?

There are two main types of grouting materials - mixtures based on epoxy resin and cement. When choosing a grout material for tiles, do not confuse it with elastomer sealing compounds that are used to fill the joints of building materials. For example, a silicone seal. It is indeed used for tiles, but not for joints, but to fill voids when laying tiles on another surface. Craftsmen do not recommend using silicone sealant for tile joints.

Epoxy resin grouts

In addition to epoxy resin, they contain a hardener, which makes the tile joints resistant to chemicals. This is a rather expensive grout, so it is usually used for retail and industrial premises. It is not very convenient to work with it - the grout is viscous. If the width of the seams between the tiles is less than 6 mm, and the thickness of the tile itself is no more than 12 mm, then the epoxy resin-based grout will not penetrate the seams; they are very narrow for it.

Cement-based grouts

This is a dry mixture that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use. They also sell ready-made cement grouts, already diluted in the required proportion, but they are more expensive. Cement-based grouts differ in the additives that are included in the material. Thus, there are three types of cement grout: dry hardener, latex mixture and industrial cement. Important: such grouts can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, and have a negative effect on the skin and lungs. Therefore, use respirators, rubber gloves and safety glasses while working.

The cement-based grout is carefully distributed, filling all the empty spaces between the tiles

Why do you need a sealant?

Using a sealant, craftsmen pursue two goals: to protect the seams and the ceramic tiles themselves from stains, and to protect the seams from excessive moisture absorption. So that stains do not appear on the surface of unglazed tiles, the cladding is coated with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are made from varnish, acrylic or silicone. When choosing a sealant, consider the type of tile and grout you are using.

Which grout for tiles is better?

Most craftsmen use Atlas, Ceresit, and Hercules grouts. Please note that the seams should be darker than the background of the tile. This way the strictness of the geometry is emphasized, and the dirt that inevitably accumulates in the seams over time will not be so noticeable.

When rubbing seams with white grout, be prepared for the fact that a yellow coating will appear on it, and it cannot always be cleaned with detergents. If the seams are covered with dark-colored material, use detergents once every 2-3 months. But grout is a mixture of cement with mineral additives that will fade over time. The darker the color of your grout, the longer the color will remain pristine.

Grouting the tile joints is done using a small rubber spatula.

How to grout tiles correctly

If you have never seen how ceramic tile grouting is done, a video from the Internet will help you get an idea of ​​the work process. It includes several stages: mixing the grout, keeping the solution for a certain time for better wetting, followed by re-mixing the grout, distributing the solution, cleaning the seams from excess grout.

The choice of grout for tiles is quite large in terms of price, color, and quality.

Prepare everything you need for work. You will need:

• respirator (if you plan to work with cement grouts);
• rubber gloves, safety glasses;
• rubber roller or spatula;
• the grout itself;
• bucket, clean cloth, sponge;
• plywood (if we are talking about tiles on the floor);
• sealant;
• paint roller or paint brush (small).

Work order

• Applying grout

After the grout has been diluted in the required proportion, place a mound of grout on the surface of the tile (if you are grouting tile joints on the floor, you can simply lay out the grout from a bucket, and if you are working on a wall, use a rectangular trowel). A grout float is best for distributing grout.

The grout float should be held diagonally - this way the solution will be distributed over the surface more evenly

It should be held at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and grout should be applied diagonally. Run the float over the surface of the tile 2-3 times, but don’t just cover the tile with grout, but try to rub it into the seams and press with force. The seam must be tightly filled with mortar. The stronger the resistance, the more the seam will be filled, which means it will be tighter. The main idea of ​​grouting tile joints is to fill all the corners and voids around the tile from bottom to top. During the grouting process, the liquid will leave the grout joint, so the material will harden and the joints will be filled with particles of cement and sand.

You should not grout the entire surface at once. First, distribute the material over a small area no larger than 1-2 square meters. This way you can evaluate how quickly the grout sets and understand how often you will have to stop work and clean the joints.

How to grout tiles using a grout bag

A grout bag is a very convenient and practical tool for performing a simple but important operation.

If you are working on a surface that is difficult to clean, using a grout bag is recommended. It works like a piping bag for finishing cakes. A metal tip is attached to its end, the width of which is approximately the same as that of the grout joint. The bag is filled with grout and squeezed into the seam through the tip.

When working with the bag, place the tip at the top of the seam and move it back and forth until the seam is completely filled. To effectively fill, work along the entire length of the joint rather than around individual tiles. First fill horizontal and then vertical seams. You should squeeze out a little more grout than you think is necessary, because after the first setting, you should compact the grout into the seam using a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is larger than the width of the seam, or jointing. After the compressed grout has set in the joint (this takes about half an hour), the excess should be removed with a stiff brush.

How to remove grout from tiles

• Step 1: Dry grout removal

Once you have grouted all the joints, use a float to remove any excess grout. It should be held at right angles to the tile and moved diagonally relative to the surface of the joints. If you move vertically or horizontally, the edge of the tool can ruin some seam, removing part of the grout from it. After dry removing all excess grout, allow the joints to set before wet grouting.

• Step 2: Wet grout removal

How long should it take after finishing dry grouting? It varies greatly from installation to installation. Sometimes it takes 25-30 minutes, and sometimes five is enough. The drying speed of the grout depends on the adhesive, tile, and type of base. Weather conditions play an important role.

Working with a damp sponge is a mandatory stage of work, which will return the tiles’ shine, gloss and original color.

Remains of grout on the surface of ceramic tiles sometimes dry out quite quickly, while the grout in the seams remains wet for a long time. Use a very damp sponge to evaluate. With its help you can test a small area of ​​the surface. If the grout has set very quickly, wet removal of the grout will be labor intensive. The material in the seams should be dense and elastic, but not hard. If the grout from the seams stretches behind your damp sponge, it has not yet set enough, you will have to wait a few more minutes. Start cleaning when the grout remains in place.

If too much time has passed from grouting the joints to wet grouting, you can remove the dried-on excess using a special abrasive float. It does not leave scratches on the tile surface.

To wet grout tile joints, you will need a bucket of water and a sponge. First, use a sponge to quickly remove most of the grout. Make gentle circular movements with the sponge, gradually removing sand and cement particles. Make sure that there are no grooves in the seams. Rinse the sponge from time to time and wring it out well.

To obtain an ideal result, the seams are given the same shape and depth

Inspect the grout joints and smooth them out if necessary using a jointer (a wooden stick with a sharpened end). It is very important to give the seams the same depth and shape.

• Step 3: Final Cleaning

When all the seams are level, the surface of the tiles should be cleaned again. This is done with a sponge, which must be constantly rinsed in water and wrung out well. The purpose of this cleaning is to remove all grout residue from the tile surface. After this, the seams should dry for 15 minutes.

• Step 4: Apply Sealant

Sealant can be used to cover both the tile and the grout once the tile joints have completely hardened. If you are covering only the seams, use a small brush; if you are covering both tile and grout, use a small roller.

Treating seams with sealant will increase their resistance to mechanical and chemical influences

After completing the work, place a sheet of plywood on the tile and prohibit household members from walking on it until the grout is completely dry. Some types of grout dry within two weeks, to avoid damaging the joints, check the required drying time in the manufacturer's instructions.

Filling the joints between the tiles is the final stage of installing the tile covering. But, despite the apparent simplicity of the work, you need to know how to use the grout mixture correctly. Otherwise, you risk getting a completely different result than you expected. A well-made seam can help disguise wall defects or mistakes made during installation. And uneven grout will ruin even a flawless tiled panel.

Cement-sand mortars are not suitable for grouting joints in the bathroom.

Before filling the space between the tiles, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory steps. The tile adhesive must dry completely. Accordingly, it is better not to start grouting earlier than 1-3 days after completion of installation. Thoroughly clean the entire surface of dust and dirt, remove small debris from the seams using an old toothbrush. Don't forget to remove the cross separators that were used when laying the tiles.

Some experts say that you can do it right on top of the plastic crosses. But you need to take into account that the grout layer in such places will be much thinner, so the color of the seam may differ from the main one. When using white putty, this nuance can be ignored. But if you prefer a colored mixture, then it is wiser to remove the separators.

Unglazed tiles must be moistened before starting work. Moreover, not only the outer surface is wetted, but also the sidewalls of each panel. This measure will prevent the tile from absorbing excess liquid. Typically, a garden sprayer or spray bottle is used for this, which is used to care for indoor plants. The surface must be wetted carefully, taking precautions. Excessive moisture can lead to deformation of the grouted joint and the appearance of cracks. Therefore, make sure that the work surface is damp, but the water should not drain and form puddles.

When working with glazed material, pre-wetting is not required.

Selection of grout mixture

Only a competent choice of grout can guarantee the impeccable appearance of the tile joint.

At the moment, 2 types of compositions are most often used. These are solutions based on epoxy resin or cement.

When choosing grout materials, pay attention to the fact that the mixture should be intended specifically for tiles. Inexperienced finishers sometimes confuse grout with sealing mixtures made using elastomers. Such silicone putties are sometimes used to treat tile joints. But you shouldn’t buy them instead of grout.

Grouts, the main component of which is cement, are sold in the form of dry and ready-made mixtures. The cost of the second type of putty is usually much higher. And since preparing the composition with your own hands does not require special knowledge and skills, it is wiser to buy the powder. To dilute it, you may need liquid latex, so first carefully read the instructions on the packaging of the material.

Latex mixtures make the seams between the tiles waterproof and cushion the entire cladding when it contracts or expands (for example, when there is a sudden change in room temperature). Solutions made with water do not have such abilities.

Typically, the composition of the grout differs only in the additives. Consult your retailer to select the correct mixture.

Grouts made with epoxy resin are usually not used when finishing apartments and residential buildings. Seams filled with this material are characterized by increased impact resistance and resistance to aggressive substances. But in a normal bathroom or kitchen, such precautions are not required. In addition, epoxy mixtures are much more expensive than their cement-based counterparts. It is also necessary to remember that epoxy putties are viscous, so working with them requires a certain skill. If the width of the tile joint is less than 5-7 mm and the depth is 10-12 mm, then such compositions are not suitable. The viscous mixture simply will not penetrate such a narrow space.

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Preparation for work

Color options for grouting.

The choice of seam width depends on the chosen design of the cladding appearance. But it is necessary to take into account that the greater the distance between the panels, the brighter the seam looks. Typically, experts recommend making the space between the tiles no wider than 3-6 mm. If you use tiles of irregular shape, imitating, for example, pebbles or natural stone, then try to arrange the elements so that the empty space between them does not exceed 10-12 mm. Otherwise, the surface will look sloppy.

In addition, it must be taken into account that in wide joints the grout may become cracked after drying. Adding coarse sand to the grout mixture will help avoid this problem. But even this measure does not guarantee the reliability of the seam.

Making the distance between the panels too narrow is also unacceptable. It is difficult to fill a joint that is too thin with grout completely. Moisture will penetrate under the tiles, which can deform and even destroy the entire facing panel. The grout can be made more liquid, and then it will fill the joint more effectively. But the more moisture there is in the grout, the higher the risk of cracks. And, accordingly, the grout joint will be unreliable.

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Preparation of grout

To prepare the solution, it is best to use a drill with a special attachment.

Grout is usually prepared using water or latex grout. Polymer mixtures must be diluted only with water. But in any case, it is necessary to add enough liquid so that the grout becomes plastic, homogeneous and can be easily distributed over the surface with a spatula. It is best to strictly follow the instructions on the packaging. If you add too much liquid, the grout will not be strong.

The container for mixing the solution must be clean. If you use water to dilute the mixture, then give preference to one that does not contain suspended matter or small debris.

Mix the grout by adding the mixture to the liquid, and not vice versa. First, take approximately ¾ of the required volume of water. Then add the dry mixture, constantly stirring the composition so that no lumps form in it, and pour in the remaining water.

Even if you follow the instructions step by step, remember that the consistency of the solution can be influenced by many external factors: room temperature, humidity, the presence of coloring pigments in the mixture, etc. In this case, the proportions of the liquid and the grout itself may change. But if dry polymer is included in the grout mixture, then it is wiser to strictly follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

If you need to make several portions of the solution, then make sure that the proportions of the grout components are absolutely the same everywhere. When purchasing several packages of grout, make sure that the serial numbers on them match. When preparing the mixture, take a little powder from each bag. Otherwise, the final color of the seams may differ from each other.

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Mixing the grout mixture

When preparing grout for laying tiles in a residential (small) room, it makes no sense to use a special mixer or drill attachment. Moreover, mixing grout with power tools can only damage its properties. If you stir too vigorously, air bubbles will form in the solution, which will weaken the seam. If you use a mixer, make sure that its blades do not rotate too quickly (it is better to choose the minimum speed). But it’s easier to prepare the grout using an ordinary fork.

Once the mixture has become homogeneous and the lumps have disappeared, leave the mixture to swell for 10-15 minutes. Then stir the solution again, making sure that there are no lumps left in it.

To carry out further work you will need the following tools:

• a protective mask or construction respirator (its presence is required when working with mixtures containing cement);
• thick, preferably rubber, gloves;
• construction safety glasses;
• wooden strip for straightening the seam;
• trowel;
• rubber spatula (trowel);
• household foam sponge;
• clean rags (napkins).

When everything necessary is prepared, you can start grouting the joints.

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Filling tile joints

To fill the joints between floor tiles, the solution is simply spread onto the cladding and leveled using a special rubber spatula.

To perform work on a vertical wall, you will need a trowel. The tool must be held at an angle of approximately 300 relative to the surface. The grout is applied to the cladding diagonally.

An area of ​​no more than 1-1.5 m² is processed at the same time. If you work with a larger surface, the solution may “set” before you thoroughly level it. In addition, excess grout must be removed immediately. It is quite difficult to wipe off the dried mixture from the surface of the tile.

After applying the mixture to the wall, smooth the entire surface with a rubber float. Try not to just distribute the grout along the seams, but rub it in, pressing hard on the spatula so that the grout fills the entire space between the tiles. Remember that the stronger the resistance of the mixture, the more densely the space between the tiles is filled. This means that the seam will be more reliable and durable. Make sure that the mixture fills all the corners and the slightest voids left after installing the tiles on the wall.

Laying mosaic tiles. Step 1.

If you are working with an expensive coating, for example, designer ceramics, then it is wiser to use a grout bag. It is similar to a pastry tool that is used to decorate cakes with cream. At the end of the thick bag, an elongated plastic tip with a hole is attached, through which the grout is squeezed into the seam. Its width must be chosen so that it fits freely into the space between the tiles, but the “sausage” of putty squeezed out of it should not be too narrow. In one pass it is necessary to completely fill the entire seam.

Grouting using a bag begins from the left corner of the wall. First, all seams are filled horizontally. The tip of the tool is placed in the space between the tiles and gradually, as the joint is filled with mortar, it moves towards the opposite wall. After all the voids have been filled, they proceed to grouting the vertical joints.

Whatever tool you use, always apply a little more mortar into the space between the tiles than seems necessary. After the composition dries a little (2-3 minutes after application), tamp it down with a wooden strip or the handle of a toothbrush. Then give the solution a chance to “stand up” and after about half an hour, remove the remaining grout.

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Formation of a tile seam

Laying mosaic tiles. Step 2.

When the main grouting work is completed, excess mortar must be removed from the tiles. To do this, you can use a rubber grater. It is held at an angle of 90° to the cladding surface. The instrument is passed diagonally to the seams. If this rule is not followed, the edge of the float may get into the space between the tiles and damage the mortar. Then you will have to add the mixture to the seam and rub the surface again. Remove any remaining mixture with a clean cloth.

Wet cleaning of the finished cladding should begin only after the grout has completely dried. Usually this does not take more than half an hour. The difference between the drying time of the grout depends not only on the composition of the solution, but also on the temperature and humidity in the room. But in any case, before washing the cladding, you need to check whether the seam is dry. Sometimes it happens that the grout on top is covered with a fairly dense crust, but inside the solution remains wet and too liquid.

Take a dampened sponge and wipe a small area with it. The grout mixture must retain its elasticity and ductility. If you miss this moment, then the dried putty will have to be removed from the tiles using special means. In this case, there is a high risk of damaging not only the seams, but also the decorative coating of the tile. The solution should not stick to the sponge or deform when touched gently. If this happens, then you should wait a little while the grout sets.

If the composition still has time to dry, you can use a special grater with an abrasive coating. Unlike its smooth counterparts, it will not leave scratches on the tiles and will effectively remove stuck grout.

After cleaning the tiles from dried mortar residues, wipe the entire surface with a well-wrung out sponge or soft cloth. Make sure that excess moisture does not accumulate in the space between the tiles.

You can choose expensive, exquisite tiles, the best adhesive mixtures, quickly and efficiently lay tiles on the walls, but if you do the finishing incorrectly, all the work will go down the drain.

Often the final result largely depends on the final touches, so grouting the tile joints in the bathroom with your own hands is a responsible and scrupulous step. Thanks to skillful technology, it is possible to create a stable structure with stunningly correct geometry and impeccable appearance.

The purpose of the mortar for filling tile joints is clear: it protects the walls (or floor), as well as the adhesive composition, from moisture and mechanical damage. The correct grouting process transforms individual fragments (tiles, borders, decor) into a complete coating, making the bathroom walls aesthetically attractive.

There is a so-called seamless tile, which completely lacks a side chamfer. Ideally smooth edges require tight installation, without the use of seams and, accordingly, grouting materials.

However, most often these are collectible designer tiles or porcelain tiles, which are very expensive and require professionalism during installation, so ordinary tiles are used for tiling bathrooms in typical city apartments and country cottages.

The talented Polish designer Maciej Zien is the author of many collections of seamless ceramic tiles, one of which, Piccadilly London, is built on the contrast of colors, shapes and textures

Which grout will lie smoothly, last longer and not require immediate repairs? High-quality material must have the following properties:

• uniformity - do not contain clots and inclusions, so as not to create unevenness or air bubbles that provoke destruction of the layer;
• elasticity - well-connected particles of the solution facilitate quick and easy application;
• strength that appears after completion of work and allows you to care for the seams without destroying them;
• hydrophobicity, repelling moisture.

And of course, the grout must match the color scheme of the selected tile - match in shade or, on the contrary, create an expressive contrast, which happens much less often.

The clear geometry of the seams, emphasized by contrasting grout, and zoning with orange decorative tiles turns the bathroom into a beautiful modern room in which to spend time pleasantly

Stages of grouting tile joints

Many people think that grouting is very easy - just apply the compound to the seams, remove the excess and that’s it, the job is done. However, during the embedding process, technical nuances often arise that affect the final result. We will try to break down the final stage and identify the tricky and difficult aspects of such an important process.

Step #1 – prepare tools and materials

The advantage of doing it yourself is that you don’t need to buy expensive tools and materials. Everything is relatively cheap and is sold in construction supermarkets. So, for work you will need:

• a set of rubber spatulas for applying grout and distributing it along the seams;
• several buckets or special containers for mixing the solution;
• construction knife and paint brush for cleaning tile joints;
• several household sponges for wet cleaning;
• protective accessories – mask and rubber gloves (for aggressive solutions).

Since the process will not last long, it is better to prepare tools and equipment in advance.

You also need a large amount of clean water - this is not a problem for the bathroom if the water supply is not blocked due to construction work. The materials you will need are ready-made grout in jars or a dry mixture for preparing the solution, which is usually sold in small bags.

Spatulas for applying and deepening the grout differ from metal tools for plastering walls: they are made of elastic rubber, which is convenient for distributing the composition along the seam without damaging the integrity of the tiles

Step #2 – preparation of seams and mortar

After the glue has completely dried (the time may vary - from 8 hours to 2 days), you can prepare the work surface and dilute the dry mixture with water, if you have not purchased a ready-made solution.

The cracks between adjacent tiles must be completely cleaned of any glue residue with a knife, and then sweep out small fragments and dust with a paint brush. The cleaner the surface being treated, the smoother the grout will lie and the more firmly it will “adhere” to the edges of the tile and the wall.

Preparing joints when laying new tiles takes much less time than grouting old joints with cracked and darkened mortar

Before grouting the joints on ceramic tiles, prepare a solution. Take a clean container, pour warm water (20-25ºC) into it, add the dry mixture from the pack and stir thoroughly.

If you don’t have a special mixer attachment for your drill, a regular wooden stick will do. The main thing is that there are no lumps in the solution. After preparing the mixture, you should immediately begin the application process.

When preparing grout, you need to compare two important factors: application time and drying time. If you are working slowly, it is better to cook several small portions at a time

Step #3 – applying grout

At this stage, inexperienced home tilers make a small mistake: they begin to fill the seams between the tiles “dry”. Professionals recommend moistening the seam with water before applying the composition for better adhesion. Apply water with a paint brush, preferably a round, large sponge or spray bottle.

You can play it safe and use an antiseptic primer instead of water to prevent the appearance of fungus or mold.

If you decide to moisturize the joint space with a primer, do not buy a special composition for this purpose. The solution you used to prepare the walls for tiles is perfect.

When applying the solution, pay attention to the movements of the spatula - they should go perpendicular to the seam. The grout should be applied quickly but carefully, pressing inward a little so that it fills the entire joint space.

You can run the sharp end of the spatula along the application line and once again go through transverse strokes.

To ensure that there is no waste left inside the tile joint, the strokes should be tightly overlapped one on top of the other, especially carefully at the intersections of lines

Step #4 – dry and wet cleaning

Even with very careful application of the composition, streaks and marks remain on the edges of the tiles. How to grout tiles correctly, leaving a minimum of marks? Even during the process of processing the seams, you can remove excess: after several transverse strokes, run the spatula lengthwise, collecting excess solution.

Then, even before it dries completely, you should take a dry cloth or damp sponge and carefully wipe off the remaining solution.

However, be careful: when pressing with a sponge, part of the grout can be squeezed out of the joint, so use only transverse movements.

The more careful and precise your movements are in the process of applying the solution, the less time you will spend cleaning the tiles later.

A damp sponge is preferable for another reason: by removing excess solution, it smoothes the seams, making them smooth and aesthetically attractive. You should not be distracted while working, because the grout mixture dries quickly, and removing it in a dried state is quite difficult.

Get ready for the fact that after the first cleaning you will have to wipe the entire tile several times with a damp cloth - traces of grout, especially gypsum, are very persistent.

The nuances of working with floor tiles

The tile joints on the floor are filled in exactly the same way as on the walls, but there are several nuances that make the work easier. For example, there is a method that allows you to quickly treat a floor with smooth tiles. Instead of a regular sponge, take a hand-held construction float with a rubber pad and fill the seams at arm's length with wide, sweeping movements. The solution will spread evenly and fill the voids tightly if you make it more liquid.

The grater can also be effectively used for the next step - removing grout residues by attaching a porous foam sponge instead of a rubber pad.

This method is not suitable if the texture of the tile is embossed, has protrusions or scars. The grout will fill the depressions in the ceramic, which is an additional labor-intensive cleaning job.

After treating the ceramic cladding, do not forget to fill the seams around sockets, pipes, plumbing fixtures and heated towel rail mounts with mortar.

Once again about the types of grouting materials

On the shelves of construction supermarkets you can find a variety of materials for filling tile joints. Domestic and foreign manufacturers offer products of different composition and consistency: dry mixtures, ready-made solutions of medium viscosity, dense pastes. Let's look at how aggregates differ and which ones are better suited for grouting yourself.

The basis for the most common type of dry mixes is cement - similar products can be found from every manufacturer. Some cement compositions contain sand, others are diluted with other fillers. Sand mixtures should be used if the width of the joints reaches 4 cm or higher, that is, they are absolutely not suitable for bathrooms. Cement-sand mortars are used for exterior finishing of facades, installation of garden paths, and construction work in the yard.

You can prepare cement grout yourself, using cement and fine sand as a base, taken in equal parts, and a little latex additives for elasticity.

For grouting tile joints in bathrooms, toilets and kitchens, compositions made from Portland cement mixed with lime are used. Fine grinding of the components guarantees an even, uniform layer during application. Polymer-cement solutions are diluted not with water, but with a latex-based composition. There are two types of mixtures: colored and light, intended for mixing with coloring pigment during the preparation process.

The second type of solution is prepared based on resins. Even professionals rarely get to work with epoxy material, which consists of two components and is prepared immediately before application. The thick mass must be applied quickly and very carefully. When hardened, the grout material becomes equal in strength to ceramic tiles and lasts for at least 50 years.

Epoxy mixtures are used for joints wider than 6 mm, but are sometimes used for finishing bathrooms. Designers add gold or silver powder to the powder and get a luxurious frame for ceramic tiles.

Epoxy grout, bright, with the addition of metal powder, looks flawless and presentable only when the edges of the tile or mosaic are perfectly smooth

The most resistant material is considered to be a filler made from furan resin. It is as expensive as epoxy, and has another feature - it is exclusively black. Despite its high performance and exceptional wear resistance, furanol is rarely used.

Sometimes silicone filler - sealant - is used to treat joints, difficult areas or places where tiles adjoin a sink (bathtub). It is sold in plastic syringe tubes and is squeezed directly into the seam using a construction gun.

The sealant has elasticity and antiseptic properties, but over time it can change its shade: white or transparent material turns yellow when exposed to water and light.

Especially for glass mosaics and ceramic tiles, water-repellent polyurethane grout based on aqueous dispersion is produced by the famous Italian company Litocol

The most convenient filler for beginning tilers is polyurethane grout, which is sold ready-made in buckets of various sizes. It is universal, that is, suitable for sealing joints when laying both tiles and mosaics. The width of the seam can be different - from 1 mm to 5 mm.

The polyurethane composition of the mixture is easy to apply, hardens quickly and does not cause problems during further maintenance.

What should be the optimal seam width?

The appearance of the tile depends not only on the color or texture, but also on the width of the joints, which surround each element on all sides and affect the visual perception. The opinion that wide seams suppress the tiles is wrong.

On the contrary, too narrow seams interfere with full visual perception, and they are also dangerous from a functional point of view: grout hardly gets into them, so it is difficult to judge their integrity and tightness.

When calculating the width of the tile joints, take into account two important factors: ease of application of the solution and preservation of such properties of the grout as waterproofness and strength

The disadvantage of too wide seams is their weak resistance to external factors. The grout cracks, crumbles and requires constant updating. For this reason, sand is added to cement mixtures for wide joints. The average dimensions of the sides of bathroom tiles are from 10 to 33 cm, a suitable joint width is 3-4 mm.

How to prevent cracking?

Cement grout cracks more often than others. There are several reasons for rapid destruction: the consistency of the solution is too thin, an unstable wooden base, exposure to hot water or an incorrect ratio of components. If repairs are not carried out in time, water will regularly get under the tiles, which can lead to the appearance of mold.

You can unstitch and clean the seams, fill them with mortar again, but where is the guarantee that this will last?

Sometimes, even during the process of applying the mass, cracks begin to appear. This means that the prepared solution is not thick enough, and to correct the situation it is necessary to rub dry powder directly into the cracks formed.

It is better to prevent cracking by listening to the advice of experts. It is necessary that the solution is homogeneous, of medium viscosity, and the seam is well cleaned and wide enough. When diluting the mixture yourself, you need to let it sit for 5-6 minutes after stirring, and then stir it again. It is not recommended to ventilate the room during drying or use hot water inside it.

And finally, the main advice: follow the instructions on the packaging. There you can find information about the correct application of the solution, the width of the joints and the drying period.