How to attach drywall profiles between posts. Four main principles - how to attach drywall to a profile. Which self-tapping screws are suitable for this or that cladding?

The strength and appearance of the wall depends on how correctly the installation of the profiles is carried out. If everything is done efficiently, then in the end you will get a perfectly flat surface that is easy to finish and will be reliable and durable. I will describe the workflow in great detail so that you can understand it as best as possible.

Profile installation technology

Let’s not think about the pros and cons of this option, they are already well known, but let’s immediately start looking at the workflow. First, let's look at its main stages, and to make everything as clear and visual as possible, I made a small diagram.

Stage 1 – surface marking

To get the perfect wall, you need to build an even frame. That is why, first of all, we need to outline the plane of the future wall, and the markings will be made along the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls, and not along the surface to be finished, because the frame is located indented from the base.

To work you need the following set of devices:

• Two construction plumbs;

• Construction cord or fishing line;
• Dowels or nails for fastening (depending on the type of base);
• Rule with level;
• Pencil or chalk for marking.

Now let's look at the workflow in detail, because if you make mistakes at this stage, your wall will become crooked. The work instructions look like this:

• First of all, we need to determine the most protruding place on the plane of the wall; we cannot go below it, so it is important to initially determine the starting point. Next, you can simply hold a plumb line in your hand and make a mark on the floor and ceiling, then step back at least another 3 cm so that you can place the profile and secure it with straight hangers;
• You need to attach plumb lines along the edges of the wall to create vertical guidelines; to do this, you need to fix a nail or dowel in the ceiling, and then hang the structure so that the tip of the weight does not touch the floor surface. The rope or fishing line on which the load hangs should not be touched by any elements, otherwise the vertical will be distorted;

• Then the cord or fishing line is stretched horizontally so that the thread is slightly in contact with the fishing line on the plumb lines. You need to make three horizontal lines - top, bottom and middle, this will be an excellent guide and will allow you to mark as quickly and accurately as possible;
• Using a long level, rule or even a ruler, you can make marks on the wall every half meter or meter. You must go around the entire perimeter and carefully mark the surface;

Do not forget to check the distance from the wall in the most protruding place; it is important that the frame does not rest against the surface when installed.

• The plumb lines and construction cord are removed, after which you can draw a line around the entire perimeter. For this type of work, you can use any device convenient for you: from a pencil or chalk to a special construction cord. The lace is pulled along the surface, after which it is pulled away from it and released, resulting in a clear and even line;

If you have a laser level, then you can carry out the process much faster and easier, because this device can very accurately and quickly draw verticals and horizontals on the surface. Of course, in order to do the work yourself, you will have to read the instructions or at least consult a specialist.

Stage 2 - fastening the guide profile

When your surface is marked, you can proceed to the next part of the work - attaching the guide profile, which is marked PN or UD and has dimensions of 27x28 mm. The elements are made of sheet steel with a thickness of 0.4-0.7 mm; for work, take options of at least 0.5 mm.

To get the job done, you need a whole set of materials and equipment:

If everything you need is at hand, then you can start working:

• First, you need to attach the profile along the line (it can run from both the outer and inner parts of the profile, it all depends on what is convenient for you) and mark the places for drilling holes for fasteners. The dowels should be spaced in increments of 40-60 cm, it all depends on the strength of the base. If there are no holes in the profile, then drill them yourself; a screwdriver will do the job;
• Holes are drilled using a drill with a working part length of at least 50 mm. If you have a longer element, then in order to see a reference point when working, I advise you to stick electrical tape or masking tape on the drill, so you will constantly monitor the correct depth and will not be constantly distracted by this aspect;

• Attaching the profile to the wall under drywall occurs very quickly. If self-tapping screws are used, then they are simply screwed into the surface, and if the dowel is nails, then first a plastic plug is inserted into the hole, and then an impact screw is driven in. Naturally, the element must be firmly fixed;

• The next piece can be joined by trimming the edges, but I usually just place the elements close together and secure them that way. The guide profile is not intended for high loads, so there is no need to fasten it, do not listen to those who say otherwise, the rigidity of the structure is ensured by completely different elements;
• Cutting a profile is very easy: measurements are taken, after which the profile is marked using a felt-tip pen. Then you need to use metal scissors to cut the side walls to the very base, then bend the element and cut it off to the end;

If you are sheathing walls adjacent to each other and want to strengthen the corner connection, then at the stage of assembling the guide structure, two main profiles are fixed in the corner as shown in the photo below. This system is much stronger than standard options.

• The system is attached around the entire perimeter, the main thing is that all the profiles are located along the line, since the plane of the future wall depends on them; any miscalculations will lead to many problems in the future.

Stage 3 - installation of vertical racks

Both the plane and the strength of the future wall directly depend on this part of the structure, so I advise you to pay special attention to this stage. First you need to figure out what you will need when carrying out the work:

• The main profile, which is labeled PS, PP or CD and has dimensions of 27x60 mm. That is, these elements are tightly inserted into the guide frame and create an excellent base for subsequent fastening of drywall. It is better to choose products made of metal with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm; pay attention to the quality of the coating: the zinc should lie in an even layer without streaks or uncovered areas;

• Direct hangers - with their help you can very quickly and very accurately set the position of the element and secure it. Most often, the products are about 300 mm long and look like the one shown in the photo below. Here it is also important to choose an option made of durable metal;

• Drywall hangers are fastened using quick-installation dowels, and the profile itself is connected to each other with special self-tapping screws, which builders call bugs or seeds. Their size and configuration can be different, the main thing is that the fasteners have a fine thread pitch for strong fixation of the profile;

• Power tools require a screwdriver for tightening screws and a hammer drill for drilling holes. Naturally, if you have a wooden base, then you only need a screwdriver;
• A construction cord or fishing line will allow you to make guidelines that will simplify the work process, but you should also have a level on hand to control the plane;
• Marking is done using a tape measure and a pencil or felt-tip pen, and the same metal scissors will be used for cutting.

Installation of a drywall profile on a wall begins with measuring work:

• First of all, you need to carry out preliminary markings; for this, 120 cm is measured from the edge of the wall (the width of the drywall sheet) and a mark is placed on the floor. Thus, the entire plane is marked so that you can see where the joints between the sheets will be located. If there are window or door openings, then you need to place the sheets so that the joint does not pass along the edge of the opening, since in this case the risk of cracks is very high;

• Next, you need to draw another line in the middle, there will be stiffening ribs that will make the wall much stronger and allow you to secure the drywall more rigidly. If your surface is covered with two layers of plasterboard, then both rows will be load-bearing and they should be installed with the utmost care;

• To transfer marks from the floor to the ceiling and make lines on the wall, the easiest way is to take a plumb line and align it so that the tip faces the mark. A dot is placed on top, and you can also put several marks on the wall. Afterwards, using a rule or a long rod, vertical lines are drawn, everything is very simple.

When you have clearly marked the position of the future racks, you can begin installation:

• First of all, you need to measure the length of the profile that will be installed. The standard length of the elements is 3 meters, so most often they need to be cut off, there is one caveat: the profile should be 10 mm shorter than the total height from floor to ceiling, this will allow it to be placed freely in the guides;
• Cutting is done as follows: first, markings are made; it is better to draw a line on all sides in order to see a clear reference point. Next, the side edges are cut, the profile is bent and cut off along the bend to the end, everything is very simple and the main thing is to be careful and not get hurt by the sharp protrusions of the metal;
• The next important operation is attaching the hangers; they are located along vertical lines or marks perpendicular to the profile and set so that the middle of the element falls on the markings. Each suspension is fixed with two dowels or self-tapping screws, the spacing of the elements is 40-60 cm, the more often they are located, the stiffer the wall will be, remember this;

• Next, the outer profile is inserted and positioned along the line, after which you can bend the hangers so that they are pressed against the rack. Using a level, the plane is checked and set to the optimal position. Then take a screwdriver, screw the profile with self-tapping screws, after finishing the work, the excess ends of the suspension are bent to the sides, there is no need to cut them off;

• It is best to first set and fix the two outer posts, and then stretch the cord between them from above and below; it will simplify further work, because you will have plane guidelines that will help you not to be constantly distracted by checking with a level;
• The further process is carried out in a similar way, you need to secure all the racks, after which you can move on to the next stage. To be fair, it is worth noting that if there are no openings on the wall and the rigidity of the vertical posts is satisfactory to you, then it is not at all necessary to make crossbars. Although I would still advise strengthening the structure with their help.

Stage 4 – installation of horizontal lintels and strengthening of openings

To achieve even greater structural strength, as well as to strengthen the openings, it is necessary to install horizontal lintels. Installing a profile under plasterboard on the walls in this case does not involve fastening to the surface; we will fix the elements between the vertical posts.

To work, you need the same set as described above, but you may additionally need a cross connector for drywall, which is called a “crab” because of its shape.

As for the workflow, everything can happen in two ways. Let's look at each of them and start with the option that involves the use of crabs:

• First, you should purchase the required number of single-level connectors, as crabs are also called. They are located in increments of 600-650 mm from each other;
• In order to place the crabs at the same level, I personally pull the cord horizontally, then it can be cut or torn off. But you can mark using a level, here you work in the way that is most convenient for you;
• The connector is snapped into the profile from the inside, after which the side antennae are bent and screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws. Everything is very simple here and the main thing is to secure the elements in the desired position;
• Then the jumpers are cut, their length should be 5 mm less than the distance between the posts. The elements are inserted into the spacers from the outside, after which the antennae are bent, and they are also fixed with self-tapping screws. The result is a robust and reliable system;

• If the structure has openings and the connection is made on three sides, then part of the crab can simply be cut off with metal scissors.

As for the second option for carrying out the work, no additional elements are needed to carry it out. The workflow goes like this:

• The distance between the posts is measured, after which the elements are cut 6 cm longer than necessary. This is necessary in order to subsequently make a frame connection without additional nodes;
• As for the configuration of the jumpers, there can be two options; in both cases, 30 mm cuts are made along the bend between the sides and the base. But then you can either bend the sides and get a T-shaped element, or cut them off and attach a jumper through the upper part. The photo below shows both options very clearly; it’s up to you to choose which one is better;

• Further operations are simple: you need to mark the racks to know the position of the crossbars, after which you can begin attaching them. If you have a version with protrusions on the side, then you can fasten through them, but it is not at all necessary to screw in screws on top. I like this method better and it seems more reliable, because if necessary, the connection can be strengthened by turning the screws on top.

Conclusion

Building a frame for drywall on a wall is not as difficult as most people think. Of course, you will have to tinker, but you can be sure that you will get a result no worse than the professionals. The video in this article will tell you additional information and clearly show important points of the work process, but if something is not clear, then write all your questions in the comments below.

The technology of cladding with plasterboard sheets came to the construction market from the West, thereby revolutionizing the production of finishing works. GCR has many advantages over conventional plaster, and therefore it has become very popular in private and industrial construction. Drywall is a kind of dry plaster that is very quickly installed on a finished frame without using water, as with cement plaster. The article discusses the question of how to attach a drywall profile to a wall.

Currently, drywall is the most popular material for renovation. They can cover walls, ceilings, make niches, arches, and also lay floors.

Each sheet of drywall is approximately 3 square meters and can be installed in a matter of minutes. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly, since it contains gypsum and cardboard with a small admixture of other additives for bending strength. Today, plasterboard can be used to cover walls, ceilings, arches, install new partitions, construct built-in furniture, and sometimes even cover floors. Now the technology for attaching drywall to a wall with a profile has been so developed that there are different frame elements for different types of sheathing. Almost anyone who knows how to use a tool can master this technology.

Materials for mounting the frame under drywall

In order to properly attach drywall to the wall on a profile, it is necessary to use high-quality materials. To cover a gypsum board wall you will need:

• galvanized profile UD 27×28 mm with a wall thickness of 0.6 mm;
• galvanized CD profile 27x60 mm with a wall thickness of 0.55 mm or 0.6 mm;
• universal U-shaped suspension;
• self-tapping screws with a 3.5x9.5 mm drill, so-called “fleas”;
• self-tapping screws with a press washer and a metal drill 4.2x13 mm;
• driven dowel 6x40 or 6x60 mm;
• self-tapping screw for gypsum board measuring 3.5x25 mm for metal;
• extensions for frame elements;

When choosing materials for installation, give preference only to high-quality products; the final result depends on your choice

When choosing a material, it is worth noting that you should not save and buy the cheapest one, with a thickness of 0.4 mm. It is much better to use a high-quality profile from KNAUF. It has a thickness of 0.6 mm and meets all requirements for strength and durability.

Installation tool

To install gypsum plasterboards, you will need a certain set of necessary tools, the list of which sometimes depends on the characteristics of the surfaces on which the gypsum plasterboards need to be fixed. Here is a list of the standard set of tools:

• laser level or level;
• tape measure and marker;
• chop cord or just nylon cord;
• hammer drill with a 6 mm drill and a chisel for chipping off uneven surfaces;
• screwdriver;
• rule for checking the surface;
• hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• metal scissors;
• cutter;
• extension cord for power tools;
• building level.

There is a standard set of tools for working with drywall, but you can replace some tools if they are missing, for example, instead of a laser level, you can use a regular plumb line

Instead of a laser level, you can use a regular plumb line and a tapping cord, but a modern laser level greatly facilitates the work and makes it very simple and enjoyable. A cutter is a special pliers that can be used to connect two profiles without screws, and quite firmly too.

Drywall frame installation technology

Attaching a profile under plasterboard can be divided into several stages:

• preparatory – acquisition of necessary materials and tools;
• marking the wall for attaching the frame;
• fastening guide profiles 28x27 mm;
• installation of the main profile 27x60 mm;
• sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

The preparatory stage includes the acquisition of the required number of frame elements, fasteners, as well as the preparation of tools. Before starting work, the surface of the wall, as well as the floor, is cleaned of debris, mortar and concrete deposits so that the starting guide element can lie on the floor at a distance of 2 - 5 cm from the wall.

The next important step is marking the wall for the future frame for the gypsum board. Before this, it is necessary to decide whether thermal insulation will be installed under the gypsum board. Marking is best done using a laser construction level. He simultaneously draws a laser beam across all four planes: two walls, a ceiling and a floor. The plane enclosed between these rays will be strictly vertical. When building walls made of brick, cinder block or reinforced concrete panels, there is always a slight deviation from the vertical. This value for the distance from floor to ceiling can be from one to several centimeters. Plasterboard walls must be made strictly vertically, and therefore from the very beginning it is necessary to determine the amount of deviation of the existing wall from the vertical. To do this, install a laser level and turn on the vertical plane projection; the laser beam will be projected onto adjacent walls, ceiling and floor.

There is not a single construction site where plasterboard is not used, especially since there are currently several types, such as: waterproof, fire-resistant, wall, ceiling and arched

Now, using a regular tape measure, you can determine the distance from the wall surface to the laser beam at different points from floor to ceiling. The difference in these measurements is the deviation of the surface from the vertical. It’s good if the wall has a small slope at the top outward, then the guide profile at the bottom can be installed close to the existing wall, thereby reducing the area and volume of the room minimally. If the wall at the top is piled inward by several centimeters, then on the floor below it is necessary to retreat the distance by this amount of blockage. Let's say there is a blockage outward, then on the floor they retreat to the thickness of the insulation and draw a line. The size from this line to the laser beam is laid out at the top of the ceiling and a line is drawn. This line is easy to apply with a tapping cord. Lines are drawn on the side walls in the same way. The main markup ends here.

Next, you need to attach 27x28 mm guide profiles to the ceiling, floor and side walls. Using ready-made drawn lines, apply a guide and secure it with a self-tapping screw if the floor is wooden, or with a driven dowel if it is a ceiling or walls. A hole is pre-drilled for the dowel using a hammer drill with a 6 mm drill. The guides are fastened at intervals of 30–50 cm. In the corners, the profiles are inserted one into the other.

After installing all the guides, begin marking for the installation of vertical racks 27x60 mm. 40, 80, 120 cm are laid from one wall and again 40, 80, 120 cm. This is done along the lower floor profile and the upper ceiling profile. In this case, the marking is carried out from the same end. All that remains is to cut the 27x60 mm profile to length, while cutting it one centimeter shorter than the distance from the floor to the ceiling, so that it is easier to insert it. All vertical profiles 27x60 mm are installed using ready-made marks on the horizontal guides. In the corners of the wall where the guide profile is attached, it is necessary to place a vertical profile 27x60 mm, bringing it inside the guide. When installing vertical frame elements, it is necessary to control verticality using a building level. Although, if everything is done correctly, according to the above, everything should be strictly vertical. At the bottom and top, the pillar profiles are secured to the guides using self-tapping screws with a press washer and a screwdriver. After this, the installation of universal hangers begins. They are attached to the wall, and for each vertical profile, 4 pieces of suspension are installed every 50 cm. It is highly desirable that all suspensions are fixed in even rows in the horizontal plane. U-shaped hangers are fixed to the wall on one side, the other two are bent at 90 degrees until they touch the vertical profile. All that remains is to attach the hangers to the 27x60 mm posts. However, in order for the vertical plane to be perfectly level, it is necessary to perform the following simple procedure. A nylon cord is pulled over a row of installed universal hangers and secured at the edges. All vertical profiles are aligned along the cord and secured to the hangers with flea screws. It is necessary to ensure that the cord is approximately one millimeter away from the posts being secured.

This procedure must be done for all rows of suspensions. This is the most time-consuming stage, although it guarantees success. You can significantly simplify the work and, instead of a cord, attach a 27x60 mm profile in the middle between the ceiling and floor, securing it with self-tapping screws. And then set everything else according to it. After fastening all the vertical posts to the hangers, you can use the rule to check the surface formed by the frame elements in different directions. At this point, the task of how to attach a profile under drywall is considered completed.

The next stage is attaching the gypsum board directly. We can briefly outline how to attach drywall to a profile. The sheets are fastened with 3.5x25 mm self-tapping screws using a screwdriver with a special magnetic attachment. The fastening step is 30 cm.

Conclusion

The use of gypsum boards in finishing work is so widespread that there is not a single construction site where such finishing is not used. Moreover, gypsum boards are now produced with different characteristics: it can be waterproof, fire-resistant, wall, ceiling and arched. Installation technology is also so developed that any interior design can be completed using partitions, multi-tiered ceilings, arches and built-in furniture. The principles of installing the frame and gypsum boards for different cases do not differ significantly, therefore, having learned how to attach gypsum boards to a profile with your own hands, you can carry out any repairs yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists.

Building a frame for installing plasterboard structures is a completely feasible task without specialists; this requires a little skill and patience.

The main condition when building a frame is that it can move a little and is not rigidly fastened at the edges if you plan to prime the surface at the seams.

For a wall with wallpaper pasted, this does not matter, because if cracks appear, they will not be visible. But from a technological point of view, this is, of course, very bad, because cracks will never lead to good. Many people think about how to attach profile to profile. To the base? Lots of nuances? And this desire is quite fair, because if you make even a small mistake, you will have to redo everything.

Before starting work

You need to sketch out on paper the best plan for how to attach profile to profile so that there is not a lot of waste, and place the frame and drywall in the best way. See which option will result in the highest material savings. Estimate the size of the door, and if the sheets are larger than needed, then a freight elevator with a wide door is needed, because in the worst case, 3 by 1.2 m sheets may not fit into the doorways.

You need to calculate the amount of material. To avoid confusion, you should remember that UD is the one that is mounted on walls, it measures 28 by 27. CD is the main profile, for walls only these two are enough, but when installing the ceiling frame you need another one, it serves as a jumper between the profiles . It is simple to calculate the required number of UD profiles for the ceiling using the formula K = P/3, where K is the number of profiles 3 m long, P is the perimeter of the room. If the dimensions are 3100 mm, then, in order not to add 100, you can make K=P/4 at 4 m. For a wall, instead of the size of the room, you need the perimeter of the plane.

CD profile calculation

When working, it is necessary to take into account the length and width of the room. We divide the latter by the distance between the profiles and select the length depending on the length of the room, if 3 m - the profile is 3 m; 3.5 - then 4, so that the work goes faster, you don’t have to worry about the leftovers - they will be used instead of crabs, we will save on material.

For example, the width of the room is 5600 mm, the length is 3100, and there will be a solid ceiling designed for a chandelier. Then the pitch between the profile is 600 mm, divide 5600 by 600, it turns out 9.3. That is, we need 9 profile blanks of 4 m, taking into account the length of the room 3100. In extreme cases, you can buy 10 profiles 3 m long, cut the 10th into pieces of 100 mm each and add to the nine existing ones, but we will also need 9 connecting pieces, and it is unknown whether we will win.

Calculation of other materials

The calculation of jumpers is carried out according to the same scheme, but taking into account the dimensions of the plasterboard: the distance between the jumpers is 1200 or 600 mm, ideally, so that there are fewer consumables. To fasten the UD profile we will need 6 x 60 dowel nails. It’s easy to calculate, divide the length and width by a distance of, say, 400 mm, then we will need 44 dowels.

We also believe that to attach the bracket we need 2 dowels per element, suspensions - taking into account a pitch of 600 mm - 5 pieces per CD profile, we have 9 of them, which means 5 x 9 = 36, multiply by 2 and get 72 pieces , add 44 dowels that we need for the profile, and we get 116 pcs.

Many beginners do not know how many screws they need and how to attach them correctly. The profile is securely attached to the profile using 2 self-tapping screws. To fasten the profiles between the brackets you also need 2 screws, the profile and the connector - 2 pcs., the jumpers with it - 4 pcs., plus for each sheet you need 50-60 pcs., in total about 500 pcs., if you take with in reserve, taking into account that some may break and so on.

How to install profiles correctly?

How can I attach a profile to a profile? The installation rules are simple.

In order to qualitatively connect two frame elements to each other, you need to secure them with small special metal screws - fleas, which are designed for use on these profiles.

When fastening along the edges of the room, you cannot connect the profiles to each other so that the ceiling can move freely and there are no cracks or defects in the plane.

How to attach profile to profile using a T-joint without a crab? It is necessary to bend either the central plane of the profile or the side edges. The first option will result in a less reliable mount. To connect the side edges, you need to bend them and attach them to the profile using 2 fleas on each bent shelf.

Crabs are used for X-shaped fastening of elements. They can also be fixed to a T-shaped connection by first removing one edge.

How to attach a profile to a profile without a crab? To properly connect the profiles, it is necessary to cut off the edges at the junction points, if they interfere, and further strengthen the fastening using self-tapping screws - small screws called “bugs” or “fleas”.

If we need to lengthen the profile, then this can be achieved by joining the profile overlapping or end-to-end - using a piece of an unnecessary profile element or a guide, respectively, fastening them with fleas for reliability.

How to connect profiles?

Many people ask the question: “How to attach a profile to a profile? What is the difference between the screws and each other?” You can fasten the elements using various self-tapping screws, which are called bug screws, bugs, bugs with a drill and tacks. But how can you attach profile to profile using self-tapping screws? To do this, you just need to press hard and scroll, marking the point. Therefore, they are not made too long, for convenience.

Bed bugs with a drill, self-tapping screws and screws differ only in that they are intended for different profile thicknesses: bugs with a drill - for profiles up to 1 mm, so that you can simultaneously drill a hole and securely tighten it in one step without a drill and changing attachments on a screwdriver.

How to attach a profile to a profile using a tack screw? This screw is the same bug, but is intended for thick profiles, 1-2 mm. Unlike a small bug, it can be used for profiles, as well as thicker structures, which is very convenient when buying them with a reserve.

Also, many self-tapping screws of this type have special notches, which prevent unwinding during operation. No additional drilling is required; the screws are tightened by pressing them into the profile. The following details describe how to attach a profile to a profile.

Profile installation instructions

The profile must be connected with fleas 9.5 mm long. At the corners, it is necessary in the design to remove one side edge to the width of the adjacent part, with the addition of 20 mm for a sheet of drywall so that they are without a gap.

For reliability, the central edge of the adjacent profile can be removed, and the side edges can be bent and fastened to the main profile.

This is a guarantee that the chandelier attached to the frame will not fall over time. But often, even without this addition, the structure is quite strong.

Ear fastening is used for complex elements where one edge is required. For example, to secure a structural element in the form of a rack, vertically to the ceiling, when building a plasterboard wall.

Attaching vertical posts

With this method, you should cut out all unnecessary edges at the junction, leaving the only one necessary for the connection. It should be secured with a dowel at an angle of 45 degrees, at the bend.

Many people make the mistake of attaching only one edge to the ceiling, without a dowel at the bend. In this case, the stand does not hold securely and will wobble. Additional reinforcement of the face usually has no effect - it still moves on the bend.

To build plasterboard walls in a room for the first time, you also need “ears” for installation, that is, the edges of the profile, without the element itself.

The ends of the extra edges of the profile should be removed, leaving the necessary ones of the required length. The profile is used for additional fixation of two elements located in parallel.

How to make a metal frame for a wall?

How to attach a profile to a profile? A photo in which you can see the assembled frame of profiles is shown below.

The profile is fastened in the same way, but taking into account the verticality of the surface, without jumpers and many reinforcements. To begin with, use a level to measure the verticality of the future plasterboard wall. Using a laser level and a pencil, we draw places for attaching the UD profile. If we only need to stretch the thread along the entire wall, first securing it to the dowel nails.

By manipulating the thread, you need to achieve an even position of the profiles along the perimeter of the wall, so that the thread not only does not touch protrusions and irregularities, but there is also enough space for the CD profile.

How to properly attach profile to profile when building a vertical frame? This is done when the UD profile is attached around the perimeter, after which you need to carefully measure everything and then fix the CD using fleas to the UD profile. They should be no closer than 400 mm from each other; after the exact location of the entire frame, the brackets should be carefully nailed behind them using a dowel-nail.

UD profile marking for ceiling

First, a thread is stretched, along which a reference level is measured, usually about 10 cm below the base. Then the horizontality of the future plane is measured and marks are placed.

Then, according to the marks, you need to attach it to it; in the future, you cannot attach drywall, because the ceiling and walls move relative to each other, depending on the humidity and ambient temperature.

Holes need to be made every 50 cm, for 3 m you need 6 pieces. It is better to attach a sealing tape to the reverse side before installation - it dampens vibrations, protects against cracks and creates additional sound insulation.

Then you need to draw a mark on the wall along the outer hole, then attach the edge to the base and set the profile according to the marks so that it is horizontal. Make a hole on the opposite side, again matching all the marks, and only then thoroughly fasten the profile along the remaining holes.

Marking other elements when installing the frame

We measure the side hangers - this is a U-shaped bracket that is attached to the base, in this case to the ceiling, and to the profile.

It should also be determined in advance that at the edges the distance between the profiles does not exceed 120 cm, that is, it is possible to make it less at the edge, but not more than 120 cm, thus we form a line for attaching the main profiles on which the plasterboard sheets will be held.

It is important at this stage to determine the lighting and wiring diagram so that they do not fall on the frame, because it may not withstand the load of the lamp. It is better to attach them to the base, and it is important that the attachment points of the lamps and profiles do not intersect.

When attaching hangers, which in the future will become brackets, it is also important to attach a seal to the flat side and fix it with the skirt down in increments of 1 m.

When is the ceiling frame built? How to attach a profile to a profile?

Step-by-step instruction:

1. We take the main profile, it is often shorter than the ceiling, so the profiles are connected to each other with a special fastener that reliably keeps it from bending.

2. Even the same piece of profile can be used as a fastening. It is very convenient to attach a water level to the profile so that you can work on the level without any problems, without looking up from your workplace and without making unnecessary movements. The profile is attached to the hangers using self-tapping screws.

3. Then, after preliminary assembly, crabs are attached to the main profile - special clamp-connectors that greatly simplify the installation of supporting profiles - short transverse guides, they are attached to the main profile.

4. All other components of the frame are attached to the crabs, depending on the design, because in addition to the plasterboard ceiling, it is also possible to attach a wall adjacent to the ceiling.

Safety precautions

Do not neglect safety precautions when performing work, use sharp scissors, throw profile trims under your feet into the work area.

Before attaching the profile to the profile, there must be a separate place for the drywall that will not interfere with either the profile or the work. All parts, profiles and tools should be located in certain places.

The screwdriver must be in good working order, the cords and the carrier must lie on the floor and in no case be below the possible flight path of the profile piece being cut off.

The stepladder must be stable. Your partner and assistants should not move below the working area and the possible fall of a sheet of drywall; you need to be a little to the side, but not directly under the sheet.

When installing lightweight suspended structures, dowel-nails are used - ready-made fasteners. They are easily and quickly mounted in the wall, and shelves, paintings, mirrors, lamps, etc. are hung on them. Widely used in repair and finishing work, for example when installing a gypsum board frame.

A dowel-nail consists of two elements: a dowel, which is inserted into a hole in the wall, and a nail, which is driven or screwed into the dowel if there is a thread on the rod. The cap has a slot, usually for a Phillips screwdriver. Dowels made of polypropylene are suitable for installation in heated rooms, while dowels made of nylon are able to withstand sub-zero temperatures, so they can be used even outdoors.

You can use a dowel-nail for concrete, brick and foam concrete, it all depends on the design of the dowel. Based on this principle, the following types are distinguished.

• Spacers– are fixed due to the expansion of the sleeve in the hole; its relief surface limits the movement of the dowel.
• Universal– are attached to the hole due to the knot that is formed when twisted.

When buying dowel nails, pay attention to their size. The diameter can be from 5 to 8 mm - the larger it is, the heavier objects the fastener can support. The most common dowel nails for fastening plasterboard profile frames into concrete are size 6x40.

The length of the nail can be from 40 to 120 mm - the longer it is, the more securely it will hold the suspended structure. Also consider quantity of fasteners packaged and make your choice based on the amount of work to be done. If you need to display one shelf and several paintings, a package of 6 to 10 pieces is enough. When you need to fasten many items, it is better to take items with a reserve, for example, 100 - 150 pieces.

Dowel-nail for gypsum boards

When using drywall, you should choose the right fasteners. Not only the strength of the structure being created depends on this factor, but also the appearance, service life of the structure, its technical characteristics - whether this structure can be weighted with various objects. For installation of gypsum plasterboard frame. The type and number of selected dowel-nails depends on the type of frame, the selected profiles; they differ in the thickness of the material from which they are made, the material of the walls and ceiling. (Foam concrete, shell rock, concrete, brick, etc.)

To install a metal frame, not only self-tapping screws are purchased, but also dowel-nails. These fasteners create the strength of the entire frame for drywall. To use these fasteners, you should familiarize yourself with their characteristics. Improper use may have a negative impact on the metal frame.

Classification of dowel-nails

In order to purchase dowel nails, you should consider the following factors:

1. Estimated load on the fastening element, on the surface itself.
2. The base into which the dowel-nail will be attached is concrete, brick.
3. Surface – ceiling, wall.

The fastening element is not uniform and is available in different sizes and structures.

Installation differences

Depending on the structural structure of the dowel, nails should be worked with different tools.

Manual fixation of the dowel-nail - in this case, 2 types of dowel-nails with different structures are used. Nails without threads are driven in with a regular hammer. Threaded - you will need a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Fixation of construction-. For this type of installation, dowel-nails with a metal sleeve are used. They are manufactured to carry more weight.

Dimensions of dowel-nails

The fastening element is produced in various sizes. Depending on the purpose, you should purchase a dowel-nail of the required size. Fasteners are marked with two numbers: the first indicates the diameter, the second indicates the length of the fastener.

Technical parameters of dowel-nail

According to GOST 28457-90, dowel-nails are produced. They undergo processing - hardness 53-56HRC. But they may have a deviation of 51/5HRC.

1. The rod can be bent according to factory settings: with a length of 50mm. – 0.1mm curvature; length is more than 50mm. – 0.15mm.
2. There should be no ripples or cracks on the nail. The nail must be sharp if the dullness is 0.8 mm. – it is considered unsuitable.
3. The nail point can be multifaceted.
4. There may be a washer on the nail. A force of 0.3 kN is required to shift it.

Dowel nails are made with an anti-corrosion zinc layer. It must be no less than 6 microns.

What is a metal wedge dowel?

This fastener is commonly called a metal wedge anchor. It is made from metal. The word "anchor" is translated as "anchor".

The metal dowel for drywall has a different installation technology. The moving part of the fastener is driven in with a hammer, due to which the dowel is wedged into the surface.

According to GOST, 2 types of metal dowels for drywall are produced: 6/40 and 6/60, where 6 is the diameter in mm, 40(60) is the length in mm. Wedge anchors are available for sale in packages of 100 and 200 pcs.

How to hammer a metal dowel wedge quickly with a hammer drill, watch the video.

Features of using a wedge anchor

The wedge anchor is made of galvanized steel or stainless steel. Carbon steel is used and coated with white or yellow zinc. On the head of the anchor there is a manufacturer's mark indicating the density of the metal used.

Basically, these metal wedge fasteners are produced for fastening profiles or hangers to the base and are the recommended fastening.

The wedge anchor is produced in the form of a metal rod. There is a locking cap at one end, and a wedge-shaped spacer end at the other. When mounting, an anchor is placed in the hole made and the moving part is driven in with a hammer. In this case, the wedges diverge in different directions, thereby fixing the fastening element in the ceiling. The wedge anchor is particularly reliable when attached to the base.

Factors affecting structural strength

In order for the wedge anchor to have a long shelf life and also maintain strength, there are some factors that influence these indicators:

1. The wedge anchor is driven into the base, which has no voids. This ensures fastening strength.
2. With high humidity, the concrete base will constantly absorb moisture, which can cause premature corrosion of the metal.
3. If there is constant pressure (movement, vibration) on the base into which the wedge anchor is mounted, the wedge will soon break out.
4. If there is a moving part left above the surface - the rod, this means that the anchor has not fully opened. However, the service life is limited.
5. Chemical solutions should not be allowed to come into contact with the fasteners. They will destroy the fastener.

Comparative table with which you can determine the strength of the anchor wedge:

Separately, it should be noted that for fire safety reasons, all suspended structures must be secured with metal wedge anchors.

Base for dowel nails and wedge anchor

In order for the fastener to have a long service life, you should know what the base should be:

1. Reinforced concrete ceiling slabs in apartment buildings.
2. Concrete – the floor in an apartment or poured concrete in a private house.
3. Solid brick. There are several types of this material: ceramic, silicate, clinker bricks. Each material has its own density, which determines the service life of the fasteners. Such material can be encountered in private buildings.
4. Foam concrete blocks. If there is no cavity in them, you need to know the density of the foam block.

Dowel-nails and wedge anchors are not mounted in a wooden base, as well as in walls made of foam blocks and other hollow materials. Since the spacer elements will not be fixed in the base, but mainly in the void, which will not provide the required strength.

How to properly attach a profile to the wall

Before attaching a metal profile to the wall, you should have a set of tools and materials:

Profile – guide profile is mainly galvanized. This gives reliability to the created structure. The calculation is made with the help or on your own. Material must be taken in reserve.

Dowel and nails for fastening the profile - for a solid wall measuring 6/40. If the base is wood, then 25mm self-tapping screws are applicable.

Drill with 6mm drill bit. and a screwdriver. Before using electrical tools, it is necessary to calculate the load on the electrical wiring.

Scissors for cutting metal. When installing a guide profile, it is sometimes necessary to make an incision on a metal product or cut it off.

Installation of the guide profile

To install the guide profile, a prepared surface with ready-made markings is required. How to fix the profile to the wall? Installation is carried out in the following algorithm:

1. First of all, the guide profile is applied to the marking (the line can pass both from the inside and from the outside - depending on the nuances that arise)
2. Next on the profile you need to mark the places for future fasteners. Basically, you need to retreat up to 15 cm from the edge of the profile. Maximum, the second fastener is located at 25 cm. from the first and so on - every 25cm.
3. If there are no holes in the profile, they are made independently. Even if there are these places marked by the factory, according to the craftsmen, one should be made exactly in the middle between the holes for the strength of the structure.
4. The diameter of the drill should be 6 mm and its length 50 mm. if the drill is longer, you should mark a boundary on it; this can be easily done with electrical tape or tape.
5. A plastic dowel is inserted into the hole made both in the base and in the profile. It is hammered into place with a hammer. This should be done carefully, as deformation may occur during installation. Then the plastic part will become unusable.
6. After installing the first plastic part of the dowel, a threaded nail is installed using a screwdriver. The deeper the nail enters the component, the more it opens, fixing all the fasteners with special tendrils.
7. If the profile is longer than required, it is cut off with metal scissors.
8. If you need to sharpen the profile, then you can use special extensions.
9. You should retreat 15 cm from each end to the border of the profiles and fix the guide dowel with nails.

The screwdriver should not be set at high speed, so as not to drive the nail into the plane more than it should be, thereby bending the profile.

The guide profile is an integral part of the entire metal structure for plasterboard, so its fixation must be strong and of high quality.

Or frame fixation, similar in technology.

Attaching hangers to the ceiling under plasterboard

How are hangers attached to plasterboard structures? Many will answer this question “dowels and nails are used.” This is wrong, because the suspension takes on the load of the entire plasterboard ceiling. When weighing heavily, over time the dowel and nail cannot withstand it and comes out of the surface. The result is sagging and deformation of the suspended ceiling. According to experts, the best fastener is a wedge anchor. How to attach profile hangers? To ensure the strength of the structure being built, a metal wedge anchor, size 6/40, is fixed in the side holes of the suspension. Installation is carried out as follows:

1. According to the intended markings, a hole with a diameter of 6 mm is made on the ceiling, the depth of the hole is 40 mm.
2. This hole is cleared of dust (you can blow it out yourself).
3. A hanger is attached to the holes made.
4. The wedge anchor is inserted into the suspension eye and hole until it stops.
5. Afterwards, the protruding rod is driven in with a regular hammer. With each blow he goes deeper into the concrete surface. This indicates that the anchor elements are straightened in different directions, thereby fixing the entire fastening element.

Installation of one anchor takes 10 seconds. This fixation of hangers is the most durable compared to the use of dowel-nails.

At what distance should the profile hangers be attached? The strength of a plasterboard suspended ceiling directly depends on the hangers. The hangers are attached to a marked line intended for the ceiling profile. On this line, every 40-60 cm, suspensions are attached with anchor wedges. The distance depends on the material used to make the suspension. If the metal is thin, then the distance will be 40cm.

It is allowed to use dowels when creating a box on the ceiling. This design does not burden the dowel-nail due to the low weight of the plasterboard box.

Video on how to properly attach the suspension

Installation features

When installing a profile with dowels and nails to the walls, certain difficulties may arise. To avoid this, you should familiarize yourself with certain nuances:

1. When installing into a brick wall, you should determine the location of the dowel-nail. If the fastener gets on the boundary (in the mortar) between the brick, then there is a high probability that it will pop out. Because the solution may crumble.
2. Before drilling into the wall, you should know for sure that there are no electrical wires going through there. Otherwise, a short circuit will occur.
3. If there is metal reinforcement running through the wall, this will also have a negative effect on making the hole.
4. To properly install the dowel-nail, you need to make holes with the same diameter as the dowel (6mm).
5. You need to drill the wall at low speed so that the material does not come out from the surface in one piece, which will create a large hole.
6. When driving the dowel, the limiting collar will prevent the fastener from falling into the hole. Therefore, the dowel should be driven in carefully.

If the hole turns out to be large and the dowel does not hold, this can be corrected in the following ways:

• tighten the self-tapping screw next to it;
• if possible, drill with a larger diameter and select the appropriate dowel;
• insert a plastic dowel and drop a little foam there. Overnight it will expand, press against the plastic part and harden. Only after this can a nail be screwed in and excess foam removed;
• squeeze liquid nails into the hole;
• insert the plastic part of the dowel-nail into the hole, apply plaster. It will dry overnight, then screw in the nail.

On a ceiling structure for a suspended ceiling, it is better to use an iron wedge anchor, because in the event of a fire it does not melt, but holds the metal structure. And for reliable fastening of direct ceiling suspensions, this is the best option for holding the structure.

But, if the ceiling is being leveled with plasterboard in an old panel house, then a plastic dowel-nail can be used. It wedges better and holds the metal frame.

In addition, check out the instructions for attaching directly to a gypsum board sheet.

Before attaching drywall to the profile, you should form a frame, which can be of two types: from a metal hat profile and from steel wall or ceiling elements. Options for laying the cladding can be either longitudinal or transverse. Each of the methods provides for the possibility of laying an insulating layer.

Features of fastening gypsum boards to the profile

In cases where the unevenness on the wall surface is no more than 100 mm, the frame is made from a horizontal profile PN (from 50x40 mm) and a vertical profile PS (from 50x50 mm) and is fixed to the wall with dowels (or self-tapping screws).

• The rack profile is mounted maintaining a distance of 60 cm (30, 40 cm in some cases). The profiles are connected to each other using hinges or screws.
• Before attaching a drywall profile, you should make sure that the joints between the sheets are placed strictly on the rack profiles, and that the structure has holes for electrical wiring and other communications. In addition, insulating materials can be placed in the voids formed between the wall and the sheathing.

When the wall has irregularities of more than 100 mm, then materials similar to the construction of a suspended ceiling should be used: guide profile (28x27 mm), ceiling profile (60x27 mm) and direct suspension. Installation of the structure is carried out by the following actions:

• The PNs are fastened with dowels every 100 cm (optimally – 3 fastenings for each profile). A special tape is used as a seal;
• The ceiling-type profile is mounted on direct hangers every 150 cm (no more). The extreme fastenings at the top and bottom should be placed at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the ceiling or floor. Each such profile requires the presence of at least three suspensions.

Installation of cladding on a profile frame

• The first priority is to apply the markings. The locations of all components of the structure should be noted. Marks are left on the floor at the locations of rack-type profiles and various openings. Using a plumb line, the markings are projected onto other surfaces;
• before fixing the guide profiles, the junctions with the floor and ceiling should be sealed (with tape or silicone sealant);
• the guides are fixed to the surface of the ceiling and floor with dowels in accordance with the markings. Rack profiles are also fixed to the walls in the same way, observing a step of 100 cm (at least three fastenings per profile);

• The racks of the structure must be 10 mm lower than the height of the room and connected to each other with a hinged cutter (PN or PS) or short self-tapping screws (PP or PNP). The pitch between the posts is 60 cm. During the process of cladding the frame, the screws should be removed;
• in the case when the cladding is made with ceiling profiles, they are fixed to the wall with direct hangers after preliminary compaction. The distance between fastenings is 15 0 cm (at least 3 fastenings for each profile). The distance from the ceiling to the upper and lower profiles is no more than 15 cm. More rigid fastening can be achieved by using profiles curved at right angles instead of straight hangers;
• an insulating layer is placed into the cavity inside the frame, if provided for by the project;

• Electrical wiring and other necessary communications are fixed to the surfaces of the profiles. It is prohibited to lay electrical cables along the frame posts due to the possibility of touching them;
• the frame for lining the doorway is installed together with the door frames. A rack profile is installed on each side of the door frame, designed to withstand the load created by the future door. The structure is fixed to the floor and ceiling with special corners. Then you should fix the box on the racks, build a jumper at the top, securing it with screws. Intermediate posts must be placed above the door frame;
• if you plan to install attachments or decorative elements, then you should secure the embedded parts using rack profiles;
• Sleeves should be installed in places where the casing is crossed by water supply or heating system pipes;
• then you can install and secure sheets of drywall or gypsum fiber;

• seal the joints and seams with putty, after it dries, cover the surface of the wall with a primer;
• Next comes the installation of sockets and switches, which need to be mounted in special boxes for drywall;
• Having completed the sheathing, you can begin to form the floor and decorate the room.

When sealing seams, you need to use reinforcing tape to sufficiently strengthen them. The absence of tape leads to the appearance of cracks at the joints. Even the highest quality brands of putty in many cases are not able to save against this possibility.

Manufacturers offer several varieties of such tapes. To decide which one is suitable for each specific case, you should understand their differences.

• Polypropylene and lavsan tapes are characterized by the fact that they stretch easily. Subject to significant load when bending the seam, they can become deformed, thereby stimulating cracking of the putty, while remaining intact. It is difficult to call such joints reliable, especially if the tape itself is thin;
• fiberglass tape retains its shape and does not stretch, but it is not ideal due to its low strength;
• self-adhesive mesh has low tensile strength, which does not provide reliable seam protection;
• paper tape - judging by experimental studies, such a part is most effective in performing the task of strengthening a seam. It is not prone to stretching, and its tensile strength is quite high. Many drywall manufacturers recommend such a system for performing various cladding works.

When choosing paper tape for fixing seams, you should opt for a thin but durable tape, the surface of which does not have a smooth texture - for better adhesion to the putty. Manufacturers provide for the presence of minor punctures in the paper tape, which allow excess air to escape.