home · Tool · How to treat young trees in spring. Treatment of the garden in the fall from pests and diseases: preparing the garden for winter. Where the lacewing, apple mite and viburnum leaf beetle can hide

How to treat young trees in spring. Treatment of the garden in the fall from pests and diseases: preparing the garden for winter. Where the lacewing, apple mite and viburnum leaf beetle can hide

Almost all gardeners know that spraying trees in the spring is a useful thing. But what exactly does garden cultivation do? What pests and diseases does spraying help combat? What and when to spray trees in April and May? How to make pest control treatment safe for beneficial insects? Learn more about spring garden protection.

Pest control: where they spend the winter and what they eat

There are a great many insect pests—apple trees and black currants alone have more than 200 of them. But you only need to fight those that actually cause significant damage. Based on their feeding method and the structure of their oral apparatus, pests are divided into two main groups: leaf-sucking and leaf-gnawing.

TO leaf-sucking include aphids, copperheads, bugs, thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, as well as mites, which are not insects. These pests pierce the leaf blade or bark and suck out the juice through the puncture. Therefore, they cannot be destroyed except by contact; the drug must destroy the integument of the body, as a result of which the pests die, or must cause paralysis of the respiratory systems.

But in the arsenal of modern means of protection, new generation drugs have appeared that penetrate the cell sap of the plant and become destructive to leaf-sucking pests, but do not accumulate in the plant itself, since after 2-3 weeks they completely decompose into harmless elements.

One of these drugs is the chemical poison “Phosbecid”. Plants treated with it cannot be eaten for 20 days. But there are also biological products “Iskra-bio” (“Agravertin”) and “Fitoverm”, after treatment with which fruits and greens can be eaten after 48 hours.

TO leaf-chewing insects include beetles and their larvae, butterfly caterpillars. In addition to insects, there are also mollusks: slugs, snails, crustaceans. All of them feed directly on leaves, so they can easily be poisoned through the gastrointestinal tract - you just need to moisten the aerial part of the host plant with a poisonous drug.

As a rule, everything sucking insects overwinter on the branches of bushes and trees, located near the kidneys. And these insects are most vulnerable before the start of sap flow, when the average daily temperature is close to zero, since at this moment their chitinous covers begin to collapse to allow the larvae to get out of them. There is another moment when pests are vulnerable - late autumn, since at this time their chitinous covers have not yet become stronger.

The rest overwinter partly in the forks of branches or in crevices of the bark, but mostly - under a layer of foliage or in the top layer of soil right under the plantings, and come to the surface only when a green cone of leaves appears, when the bud scales move apart, that is, after the start of sap flow. Most of these insects first damage these opening young leaves, and then move into the buds at the moment of their protrusion (separation), therefore, they must be fought precisely at these moments.

But in no case should you treat the garden with chemicals at the time of flowering, since at this time beneficial insects emerge from the ground. And their destruction can lead to an ecological imbalance in the area, because their numbers are restored much more slowly than the number of insect pests.

There is also a whole group of pests, overwintering inside plants: gall midges, glass beetle, currant bud, raspberry fly larvae. They are especially difficult to deal with because they are practically impossible to reach using chemical means. All that remains is to manually collect, cut out currant and raspberry stems with thickened galls, drying and drooping blackcurrant stems, after which all this must be immediately burned before the pests come out and spread throughout the garden.

First pest control treatment

This is spraying trees and bushes in early spring before sap flow begins, at the end of March - very beginning of April. Insect larvae and eggs die from contact with the drug. Therefore, you need to very carefully spray the entire tree (the entire bush) along all the branches and around the trunk in order to moisten the pests. When processing a garden, at least 10 liters of solution are consumed per mature tree, 5-6 liters per young tree, and at least 1.5-2 liters per bush.

It is best to use for spraying a concentrated solution of any mineral fertilizer listed below (per 10 liters of water):

500-600 g nitroammophoska,
or 600-700 g of azofoska,
or 400 g of potassium chloride,
or 500 g of potassium carbonate,
or 600-700 g of urea
or just 1 kg of table salt.

It is imperative to thoroughly spray the ends of the branches on which aphid eggs are laid, the skeletal branches in the forks of which some of the pests overwinter, and the soil in the tree trunk circles. With such spraying, salt metabolism in the pest cells is disrupted, which causes their death.

If such treatment is not done in the spring, then at the very beginning of sap flow insect pests will be born from eggs and larvae, but at this time our helpers - beneficial insects that feed on pests - are still sleeping and will come to the surface only during flowering, so protect There is no one to keep the garden free from pests except us.

Second garden treatment

If you did not treat the garden in early spring and did not destroy the nests of pests, then a second treatment will be required. It is often recommended to use one of the following drugs: “Inta-vir”, “Decis”, “Karate”, “Fury”, karbofos or its analogue “Fufanon”.

The first four drugs are highly toxic, therefore very effective, but at the same time they kill beneficial insects, bees and earthworms, since they decompose for about three weeks and destroy beneficial insects emerging from their shelters. And they absolutely cannot be used from the moment of flowering not only of the garden, but also of the coltsfoot, since at this time bumblebees appear and worms crawl out.

Karbofos and Fufanon are preferable to these drugs, primarily because they quickly, within 5-7 days, decompose even before beneficial insects appear, but are less effective, so they should not be used if there are a large number of pests.

All of these drugs kill pests by entering their intestines along with food and causing poisoning. Some pests will begin to feed at the moment of bud opening (green cone), while others will begin to feed at the moment of budding (separation and protrusion of buds). It is at these moments that you need to have time to cultivate the garden.

At this time there are already early green crops. When processing the garden, they must be covered with film.

Instead of the chemicals described above, you can use the same mineral fertilizers, but only their concentration should be 7-10 times lower, otherwise you can cause a severe burn to the opening buds and buds. We can recommend spraying a green cone with a 0.7% urea solution - this is 70 g (3 tablespoons) of urea per 10 liters of water.

Spraying infusions and decoctions of tobacco dust, citrus peels, onion peels or dry tansy, marigold seeds, garlic, and pine needles are effective.

  1. Tobacco dust. To prepare the solution, 400 g of tobacco dust is infused in 10 liters of water for 24 hours, then boiled for half an hour, then cooled and filtered. To spray, for every 10 liters of water you need to take 100 g of solution, adding 40 g of soap to it for better adhesion.
  2. Onion peel. Pour half a bucket of onion peel into a bucket of hot water, cover, leave for two days, strain and spray.
  3. Dry tansy. Pour 1 kg of tansy collected during flowering and dried into 10 liters of water and boil over low heat for 15 minutes, cool, strain. To spray, take 100 g of solution for every 10 liters of water, add 40 g of soap and spray.
  4. Garlic infusion. Chop 100 g of garlic, pour in 10 liters of water for a day, strain and spray.
  5. Infusion of pine needles. Pour 2.5 kg of needles of any coniferous species into 10 liters of water, stirring from time to time, leave for a week, strain, add another 20 liters of water and spray.
  6. Infusion of citrus peels. Soak 1 kg of citrus peels, pass through a meat grinder, pour in 3 liters of water, close tightly and leave for 5 days in the dark, strain, squeeze, bottle, seal. Use 100 g of solution per 10 liters of water as needed.

Aim to get on the underside of the opened leaves, as pests tend to be found there.

It is useful to place trapping belts made of corrugated cardboard on apple and pear trees, into which the caterpillars crawl, moving up the trunk. The top edge of the cardboard must be bent back like a roof; caterpillars cannot crawl over such an edge. Hunting belts are changed a couple of times a season and burned along with the pests lurking there.

The hunting belt can be made from plastic film. The lower edge is tied around the trunk like a skirt, and the upper edge is folded back like an umbrella. You can leave this belt on all summer long. Pests will not be able to crawl over the folded top edge.

Spring is the time to start active work in the garden. Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases is an important stage in preparing the garden for a good harvest.

And the main task is to help the shrubs cope with awakening insect pests and pathogens of various diseases. Of course, we won’t be able to get rid of them completely, but reducing their number is quite possible.

♦♦♦ The garden should be cultivated after pruning the fruit trees.♦♦♦

Tilling the garden alone is not enough. Experts and experienced summer residents agree that a series of treatments should be carried out.

When should I start cultivating my garden?

We determine this not by the dates indicated in magazines and reference books, but by weather conditions, the average daily temperature, and the condition of your trees and shrubs.

♦♦♦ We remember that earlier is better than later.♦♦♦

First spring garden treatment

We carry it out as soon as the average positive temperature is +4°...+5°.

♦♦♦ The first spraying is the most important!♦♦♦

We spray fruit trees and shrubs until the buds swell.

Dormant kidney.

♦♦♦ Be sure to inspect the plants. Plants do not awaken at the same time.♦♦♦

If the kidneys are not swollen, you can use a high concentration of drugs. This will not harm the plants.

But if the kidneys are already swollen, high concentrations of drugs cannot be used.

What to spray with?

Antifungal compounds:

  • Copper sulfate

1% solution (100 g per 10 liters of water) Having previously dissolved 100 g of copper sulfate in 1 liter of warm water, add the remaining 9 liters to the container. The resulting solution should be filtered to avoid clogging the sprayer.

♦♦♦ Important! When preparing solutions containing copper sulfate, contact of the sulfate with metal should be avoided.♦♦♦

  • 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture

How to prepare Bordeaux mixture

From pests

  • Fufanon-Nova
  • Iskra M
  • Universal remedy for pests and diseases: Urea 700 g + 50 g of copper sulfate dissolved in 10 liters of water

Second spring treatment “Green Cone”

The tip of the bud, which began to grow, turned slightly green. A green cone is characterized by the fact that the buds on the trees have burst, but the leaves have not yet unfurled. The green cone phase is very short. At a temperature of +10°, sufficient moisture and sufficient sun, the plant goes through this phase very quickly.

If the leaves have turned around, the “green cone” phase has already passed.

What to spray with?

Antifungal compounds:

  • 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture
  • Oksikhom
  • Ordan
  • Horus

From pests

  • Fufanon-Nova
  • Iskra M
  • Aliot

Tank mixtures

To cultivate the garden, you can prepare tank mixtures. To do this, a drug against diseases and a drug against pests are diluted in one container.

For example: “Horus” and “Aktara” are compatible; "Horus" and "Decis".

Types of tank solutions for eradication treatment:

Along the green cone

for 10 liters of water

If the buds have bloomed

for 20 liters of water

Along the green cone

for 10 liters of water

If the buds have bloomed

for 20 liters of water

300 g copper sulfate 300 g copper sulfate 500 g iron sulfate 500 g iron sulfate
1 liter of urea 1 liter of urea 30-40 g citric acid 30-40 g citric acid
200-250 ml liquid soap (not green) or dishwashing liquid liquid soap (not green) or dishwashing liquid 200-250 ml
30-40 ml ammonia 30-40 ml ammonia A little humate small amount of humate
A little humate small amount of humate

♦♦♦ When filling the sprayer, use a filter.♦♦♦

Pre-dissolve copper sulfate in 1 liter of hot water.

Urea prevents the development and reproduction of fungal diseases and pests.

♦♦♦ Treating the garden with urea in the “green cone” phase slightly delays the flowering of the garden. This is relevant when there is a risk of return frosts.♦♦♦

Soap removes surface tension, which helps distribute the solution evenly on the plant.

♦♦♦ Laundry soap, any solid soap and liquid green (garden) soap are not compatible with copper sulfate. Copper sulfate precipitates.♦♦♦

Stir the resulting solutions well until completely dissolved and spray the garden.

Iron sulfate oxidizes quickly, so we add a complexing agent, for example: citric acid. After dissolving citric acid in water, add iron sulfate.

Processing of conifers

We treat coniferous trees, especially juniper, with a diluted solution.

If the conifers have already started to grow, dilute the preparations in 30 liters of water.

Spring treatment of conifers will not only relieve plants from diseases, but will also prevent the development of rust fungus, from which pears suffer greatly.

You can repeat the treatment after 7-10 days, but be sure to pay attention to the condition of the kidneys. For better results, it is recommended to use different solutions.

Third treatment before flowering “Pink Bud”

What to spray with?

Antifungal compounds:

  • Horus

From pests

  • Inta-Vir,
  • Senpai,
  • Alatar

Fourth treatment before flowering

What to spray with?

Antifungal compounds:

  • Horus
  • Oxide
  • Proton extra

From pests

  • Inta-Vir
  • Senpai
  • Biotlin

Safety precautions

When processing the garden, do not forget to use personal protective equipment:

Regular and proper care of fruit trees and shrubs is the key to a good harvest.

Not only nature wakes up in spring, but also its pests.

Therefore, the first treatment of the garden after winter plays an important role and represents comprehensive care of garden plants.

As soon as the snow melts, you can start to cleanse the garden of old branches. They are collected and burned.

Treating the garden after winter includes cleaning the trees from dry bark, dust and dirt using a brush or knife.

It is also necessary to carefully examine the branches of the bushes. Dry or blackened cores must be trimmed and burned.

Soil around trees and shrubs digs up with a shovel.

Whitewashing garden trees

Many plant pests spend the winter in the pores of tree bark.

The first treatment of the garden after winter with lime mortar will destroy the wintering sites of insects and destroy their eggs.

Slaked lime disinfects bark, helps to cope with pests that have overwintered in it and protects from the fairly bright spring sun.

Barrel preparation

Whitewash applied to an unprepared trunk will cause the bark to peel off. That's why cracks are sealed with garden broth made from clay, straw and mullein.

This decoction will help heal the trunk and make it smooth. It is much easier to whiten a smooth trunk, and less whitewashing will take place.

Preparation of whitewash

Treating the garden after winter with slaked lime can be done in early or mid March.

To prepare the dye yourself, take a bucket of water in which 0.5 liters of copper sulfate and 2.5 kg of lime are diluted.

For good adhesion add 200 grams of PVA glue to the solution.

Application

The prepared solution is applied to the trunks of garden trees with a special sprayer, roller or wide paint brush from bottom to top, most often to the first branches.

If pests and severe frosts have caused great damage to the tree, then the bases of the lower branches are also painted with whitewash.

Contraindications

Do not stand on the trunks of young immature trees apply whitewash. The coloring composition clogs the pores, the tree receives less oxygen and begins to hurt.

Whitening trunks in rainy weather is a waste of time.

Whitewash applied high, not only reduces the amount of oxygen, but also contributes to the death of ladybugs that protect trees from pests.

Spraying garden trees and shrubs

Next garden treatment after winter performed at the end of April. It consists of biological and chemical protection of trees and shrubs.

The main thing in this process is good timing. The buds should already swell, but not bloom.

Correct and timely first chemical or biological treatment of the garden after winter will protect plants from many diseases and preserve the harvest.

Spraying is carried out early in the morning or evening, but always in dry weather.

Tree treatment is carried out using a hand pump or an automated sprayer. You will definitely need a garden hose or a special telescopic one.

The process is carried out from top to bottom, the hose at this time is located at a distance of one meter from the crown of the tree.

The main condition for the first treatment of the garden after winter and a good harvest is thorough treatment of both trees and shrubs.

To prevent such problems from arising, it is necessary to periodically treat the area with special means. The first of these is considered to be spring garden cultivation, the methods of which will be discussed in this article.

Why treat your garden in spring?

The key activities that include garden care in early spring are pest control and the prevention of fungal and infectious diseases. To effectively protect young and mature trees, carry out comprehensive treatment.

When to spray trees and shrubs in the garden in spring

A responsible owner who cares about the future harvest begins work in the garden immediately after the first snow has melted. After all, there is a lot of work to be done: before you start spraying the garden, you need to carefully prepare everything.

If you are just starting to get involved in this business, and do not really understand the intricacies, then it is better to invite an experienced specialist who will tell you what needs to be done first. The 3 months of spring can be divided into 3 main stages in gardening:

The beginning and middle of March - before the bud formation process begins - is an excellent time to take care of your favorite trees and shrubs. Gardeners protect trees from various harmful microorganisms that have overwintered in the cracks of the bark and with the first warmth began their vigorous activity, which negatively affects growth, bud formation, flowering and the subsequent formation of fruits.

The beginning and middle of April are devoted to spraying the buds and stimulating their growth. Responsible gardeners know that during this period various fungal diseases can appear en masse on trees, which require a quick response and measures aimed at protecting the entire garden.

The first half of May, when everything has already bloomed, is a period when trees can be very sick, that is, after previously taken measures, you should not relax, but constantly monitor and take care of the garden. If the first 2 stages passed without problems, then the 3rd stage is very important, because the further ripening of the fruit depends on it.

Tree pruning before spring gardening

It will help remove sources of diseases and overwintered pests remaining from the fall from the garden.

At the end of February and in March, sanitary pruning is done: dry, damaged branches are removed, removed from the garden and burned. At the same time, you can begin to reduce the crown and cut out improperly growing branches. Be sure to cover the cuts.

During the snow melting, when the temperature is above +5C and before the buds open, continue pruning, clear the bark of mosses and lichens (if this was not done in the fall).

Treating the garden with biological preparations

For those gardeners who want to reduce the use of chemicals in their garden, biological protection methods can be offered:

For example, to prevent the development of powdery mildew, currant and gooseberry bushes are doused with hot (70 degrees C) water before the snow completely melts.

Against wintering pests and vermin, eradicative spraying of tree crowns is carried out with 10% table salt.

Treating the garden with chemicals

Of the chemical insecticides allowed, alatar, fufanon, kemifos, spark - 10 ml per 10 liters of water, kinmiks (2.5 ml), actellik (15 ml). Any of them can be used. Lately, pear worm has spread in gardens. It begins to cause harm at the beginning of flowering and continues throughout the summer because it produces 4 generations. To combat it, fufanon is used during the budding phase - 2 treatments with an interval of 20 days. Add 40 g of laundry soap to the solution.

Treating the garden with iron sulfate

Before treating the garden with iron sulfate, you need to remember that it cannot be mixed:

  • with drugs related to Karbofos;
  • with lime;
  • with substances that decompose upon contact with alkali.

Instead of lime, you can use wood ash to prepare the whitewash mixture. Its three-day infusion (1 glass per 3 liters of boiling water) after straining is combined with 9 liters of water. 600 g of iron sulfate are dissolved in the resulting extract.

Iron sulfate can be sprayed on tree trunk circles after digging. It also needs to be addressed immediately after the cold weather subsides. In dug up soil, pests become defenseless against possible frosts. Some of them, however, will be able to survive them. Ferrous sulfate finishes them off.

Sometimes trees are treated with iron sulfate without first removing moss and lichen from their trunks. Those who do not want to injure the bark by mechanical cleaning spray the plants with a chemical solution twice. Within 2 weeks after the first spraying, the growths on the trees should die off. Then the treatment with iron sulfate must be repeated.

April marks the period when insect pests lay eggs under the bark of plants. At the same time, the plants begin to bud. It would be good to carry out a secondary spraying of trees, shrubs and vines before the first leaves appear. By the way, iron sulfate tends to delay the beginning of the growing season by 7-10 days. Gardeners use the chemical to help plants survive possible frosts without consequences.

Iron sulfate has another important function. It fights iron deficiency in the soil. A 1% mixture of chemical and compost is usually applied to the soil during autumn digging. For those who did not fertilize the soil in the fall, you can add sulfate by digging up the area in the spring.

Treating the garden with copper sulfate

Copper sulfate - promotes the opening of buds and their growth, and also actively fights various pathogens. The solution should have a 1% concentration of this substance; it will be enough to treat shrubs and large trees in the garden.

Treating the garden with garlic extract

Garlic tincture is quite effective against insect pests and diseases - copperhead, aphids, mites, rust, etc. Plants are sprayed with it. It is prepared like this:

  • Chop 0.5 kilograms of garlic and dilute in 3-5 liters of water;
  • strain and squeeze out the grounds;
  • soak the resulting cake in water again;
  • pass through a sieve, mix everything and add water to 10 liters.

This rich extract repels insects with its scent. There are still many folk remedies and recipes for various tinctures and herbal decoctions that may be effective, but there is no guarantee that they will be as effective as chemical drugs.

When it comes to the question of how to treat the garden in early spring, preference is given to chemical preparations that have a stronger effect than folk remedies. During spraying, particles of poisons enter not only the plants, but also the gardener’s lungs. In order not to harm your health, and not to turn yourself into a sick larva with your own hands, you must adhere to some rules for working with harmful substances. All treatments of garden plants against pests and diseases must be carried out in calm, dry weather. Otherwise, drops of the medicinal solution will scatter through the air and will not fall on the plants, and the rain will wash everything away, making the work in vain.

Processing fruit trees in the spring is one of the cornerstones laid for a rich future harvest. Although autumn treatment destroys some pests, it is more aimed at preserving fruit trees in the cold winter. Spring allows you to control the number of harmful insects and disease outbreaks. In fact, garden maintenance only stops during the winter months. The rest of the time, trees require a different procedure. And all this is subject to a certain scheme for treating fruit trees: immediately after the snow melts, it is too early to fight fungal diseases on fruit, and in the summer it may be too late to fight caterpillars and other insects.

Preparing plants in the garden

The first treatment of fruit trees after winter is carried out in March immediately after the snow melts from the trees. The air temperature is still low, the insects are sleeping, and there is a chance to manually remove some of the pests. During this treatment, branches that died in winter are cut off, old bark is removed and annual shoots are pruned. The eggs of hawthorns and lacewings overwinter under the loose old bark, and ringed silkworm nests are located in annual shoots. If the trees have been insulated for the winter, they are “undressed”.

When to start treating trees

Treatment of fruit crops against diseases and pests in the spring begins when the temperature reaches above zero of 4-6 °C. From this moment on, treatments of trees, either from insects or from diseases, begin one after another.

Treatment of fruit trees in early spring

After the snow near the trunks has melted to the ground, treatment is carried out against the apple blossom beetle. The fight against harmful insects begins in early to mid-April.

Important! In the spring, you should not delay treating apple trees against this pest.

The apple blossom beetle wakes up at + 8 °C. Before this moment, you need to have time to whitewash the trees and place hunting belts with glue on the trunks. At higher temperatures, fungal diseases become more active, and in this case, hunting belts are no longer necessary.

Spraying trees before flowering

The first spring treatment of fruit trees against fungal diseases is carried out even before the buds open during the “green cone”, that is, the swelling of the buds. Sap flow begins immediately at above-zero temperatures, and the buds in the central zone begin to swell at the end of April. At this time, spring treatment of fruit trees from fruit rot and scab is carried out. For spraying you can use:

  1. Bordeaux mixture 1%. In 10 liters of water take 100 g of lime and copper sulfate.
  2. Copper sulfate solution. 100 g of crystals per 10 liters of water.
  3. Carticide;
  4. Abigapik.

The last 3 are industrial fungicides. Breeding instructions are included.

Important! The timing of treating fruit trees against pests in the spring is strictly tied to the development cycle of insects.

Most insecticides act on insects at a certain stage of development. Whatever works on adults is safe for their clutches. During the swelling of the buds, the pear is sprayed against ticks with colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 liters of water) or Neoron.

Spraying the garden during flowering

The main spring treatment of fruit trees against pests falls during the flowering period. In May, all insects have already woken up and are actively breeding. Biologically active agents are used against leaf rollers:

  • Fitoverm;
  • Biotoxibacillin;
  • Lepidocide.

The preparations are diluted according to the instructions and sprayed on fruit crops.

Before the end of flowering, cherries and plums are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture twice. The second treatment is done 2 weeks after the first. Spraying will protect these trees from fungal diseases:

  • scab;
  • perforated spotting;
  • coccomiosis;
  • monilial burn.

Immediately after flowering, these trees are sprayed with insecticides against scale insects: Karbofos or Aktara.

Processing during fruit formation

At the end of May, codling moths are born and lay eggs in the developing ovaries. The larvae develop in fruits throughout the entire period of harvest ripening. Those “half-worms” that can be seen by biting off a piece of an apple are the codling moth larva almost ready for pupation. Codling moths affect not only apples, but also plums, pears and peaches.

Strong industrial insecticides are used against these moths when treating fruit and berry trees in late spring. After 2 weeks, the treatment is repeated.

The first month of summer can be considered late spring, since astronomical summer begins only on June 21. Trees may need to be treated again against codling moths this month. In the same month, trees are attacked by aphids and silkworms. Pest control in June is carried out with an eye to the timing of crop ripening. In some cases, you will have to use only folk remedies.

Important! Treatment agents need to be changed, as insects adapt to the poison.

How to treat fruit trees in spring

Depending on the month and the presence of leaves, flowers and ovaries, different preparations can be used to treat trees: from chemicals to folk repellents. Chemicals can be safely used in early spring at the stage of plant awakening and right up to the appearance of ovaries. When the crop is ripening, chemicals must be used carefully, checking their expiration date. If possible, it would be better to switch to biological agents, the main active ingredient of which is bacteria.

Folk remedies can be used at any time, even just before harvest. But these substances do not destroy, but repel insects. From the point of view of population control, folk remedies are of little use.

Chemicals

Among the chemicals used for spraying in spring:

  • lime;
  • copper sulfate;
  • inkstone;
  • Bordeaux mixture;
  • industrial insecticides against pests.

Lime is the easiest to use. Tree trunks are whitewashed with it, and still bare branches are sprayed with lime water.

Copper and iron sulfate are used in the same way. Solutions of these substances are one of the first to be used in the spring, before the buds have yet opened. 100 g of any of the vitriols are diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed on fruit trees. It is advisable to use iron sulfate on plums, pears and apple trees. These crops are in great need of iron. Spraying iron sulfate will not only help fight diseases and pests, but will also provide fruit trees with iron.

Bordeaux mixture is a mixture of lime and copper sulfate diluted in water. The functions are the same as those of the individual components.

Insecticides

It is advisable to choose insecticides with a prolonged action. Many modern drugs penetrate plant tissue and remain there for up to 2 weeks. Therefore, these formulations cannot be used shortly before harvest. In spring, chemical insecticides will be harmless to people. For pest control use:

  • Fastak;
  • Tsimbus;
  • Arrivo;
  • Decis;
  • Sherpa;
  • Karate;
  • Tsitkor;
  • Fury;
  • Kinmiks;
  • Fastak;
  • Karbofos;
  • Calypso;
  • other drugs.

Instructions for use are indicated on the packages, but the general rule for liquid substances is: for aphids 1 ml per 10 liters of water, for ticks 2 ml per 10 liters.

Biological agents

Biological control methods involve the use of natural enemies of garden pests. It can be:

The insects will deal with each other themselves, the main thing is not to destroy all living things in the garden. Birds are lured into the garden in the spring by constructing nests for them. But birds are also dangerous. They can also eat the harvest.

Important! The composition is used immediately after preparation; after an hour it loses its toxic properties.

The need to use a substance immediately after preparation is a common problem with all biological drugs. During preparation, bacteria come out of their dormant state and become activated. Without receiving the food they need, microorganisms die.

Folk remedies

Traditional methods of control are more suitable for repelling harmful insects. These substances have no effect on fungi and pathogenic bacteria. Or they act, killing the plant at the same time. Folk remedies include:

  • soda;
  • ammonia;
  • vinegar;
  • laundry soap solution;
  • ash;
  • hydrogen peroxide;
  • decoctions of repellent herbs.

It is better to use these products not in the spring, but at the last stage of harvest ripening, when there is little time left before the fruit is harvested. During this period, the drugs can repel insects, but will not harm people. After harvesting, tree foliage is treated with chemicals that destroy pathogenic microorganisms.

In order not to get confused about the timing and procedure for treating fruit trees, make a calendar of gardening work by month.

From June, it is better not to use Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate and other preparations containing copper. They can cause burns on fruits and leaves. Especially if you spray the plants in cloudy weather.

When spraying the foliage of trees, make sure that the product also gets on the back side of the leaves.

Conclusion

Treatment of fruit trees in the spring, carried out at the right time and with appropriate preparations, provides the gardener with a good harvest. The main thing is not to be lazy to treat the trees in early spring, when the plants are just waking up.