How to cover walls with plasterboard over a metal frame. How to cover walls with plasterboard with a profile on a metal frame: do-it-yourself installation options. The process of installing drywall on the wall

1. Material
2. Basic cladding methods
3. GKL on a frame
4. Without frame
5. GKL decor?
6. Suspension for gypsum board
7. Video: hanging on walls covered with plasterboard

Covering walls with plasterboard for leveling and preparing for finishing is increasingly replacing traditional starting plaster. This is what drywall was invented for: its synonym, as you know, is dry plaster. Firstly, leveling walls with plasterboard is much simpler and cheaper than old-fashioned plastering. Especially wooden walls: to plaster wood using the Old Testament method, you must first apply glassine to the wall, then felt soaked in liquid clay mortar and a 2-level sheathing of shingles. Secondly, the most experienced plasterer, working with a falcon and a trowel, will not create a plaster layer that is smoother than 3 mm/m. The plaster itself, when drying out, will give more unevenness, because... applied in spots. Meanwhile, for many modern methods of decorative wall finishing, 3 mm/m is the limit.

Sheathing with plasterboard allows you to bring the wall up to a general unevenness of 2 mm between the diagonal corners. Besides, plasterboard sheathing has a mark in front of solid plaster. advantages:

• Hygienic and hypoallergenic - does not create dust and does not get dirty.
• Improves the heat and sound insulation of housing.
• “Breathes”, i.e. absorbs excess water vapor from the air and releases it when there is a shortage; this is especially important in an apartment in a building made of reinforced concrete or sand-lime brick. The breathing of drywall is not as deep and even as wood, but still not stone.

There are only 2 disadvantages to leveling walls with plasterboard, but they are quite serious.

The first is fragility.. If the corner of the furniture hits a wall plastered in the usual way, a pothole is possible, which is easy to repair. If a stumbled or slipped person presses his body against such a wall, nothing will happen to it at all. In both cases, drywall is at risk of breaking and cracking.

The second is poor accessibility of hidden communications. If a pipe leaks in an ordinary wall or the wiring burns out, the problem will be solved with a groove, which is subsequently sealed. If there is an accident behind the drywall, you will have to remove at least one slab, ruining the final finish until it needs to be completely replaced.

Taking into account all these circumstances, the question needs to be decided: ordinary starting plaster or drywall. In modern budget and mid-level housing, the result is most often in favor of the latter due to the low cost and ease of work. Therefore, the purpose of this article is to give the reader as complete an idea as possible of how to sheathe and level walls with plasterboard with your own hands, because covering a room with it approx. 12 sq. m by hired craftsmen costs somewhere from 30 thousand rubles, the popularity of the material affects pricing.

Material

Drywall is a pressed mass of cellulose filler with a gypsum binder, covered with a protective paper layer. It is produced in sheets (gypsum plasterboard), up to 16 mm thick, and slabs (gypsum plasterboard) up to 32 mm thick. For cladding walls and ceilings, regular gypsum plasterboards, moisture-resistant green gypsum plasterboards, fire-resistant gypsum plasterboards in red or orange, and fire-moisture resistant gypsum plasterboards in green with a red stripe are used.

GKLO and GKLVO are used for finishing wooden buildings, because in case of fire, they delay the spread of flames for a time sufficient to evacuate people. All types of gypsum plasterboards and gypsum boards are intended for internal use only, because cannot withstand prolonged exposure to outdoor conditions. GKV is resistant in rooms with high humidity and occasional splashing (bathroom, hallway, basement, garage), but not in rain and wind.

The parameters of the most commonly used standard sizes of gypsum boards are given in the table, but in trade practice they are often divided more simply: into arched ones with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, ceiling ones with a thickness of 9.5 mm and wall ones with a thickness of 12.5 mm (all - including paper covering). Arched plasterboard is intended for the manufacture of three-dimensional decorative structures, but can also find auxiliary use when covering walls, see below. Ceiling gypsum plasterboards of lighter weight, as the name implies, are sheathed on ceilings.

Basic cladding methods

Next, starting from the corner along a plumb line, vertical lines are struck in increments of 600 mm so that they fall exactly on the joints of the sheets. It is also necessary to take into account that gypsum board sheets should be 20-30 mm away from adjacent walls, floors and ceilings. That is, the first line is marked at 620-630 m from the corner, the next at 1220-1230 mm, etc. The last line should be the same 20-30 mm from the final corner plus half the installation width of the profile, i.e. by 80-90 mm.

The next step is to make a mark on the vertical lines 80-90 mm from the floor and the next in increments of 600 mm until less than 600 mm remains to the ceiling. Then the last vertical marks are also made 80-90 mm from the ceiling. A direct suspension is applied to the vertical marks in turn and the places for drilling holes for self-tapping screws in the wall are marked. If there are not enough standard sheets in height for a given room, in a similar way, but now level, mark the wall for installation of crossbars. Don’t forget, the longitudinal axis of the cross member profile should also be at the junction of the slabs of the sheathing chords! That's all for now, you can get distracted by marking and cutting the gypsum boards.

Preparation of gypsum boards

At this stage of the work, you first need to cut the incomplete sheets to size. Cutting plasterboard is simple: cut with a mounting knife, break in weight, cut from the inside, see fig. below. “From the inside out” is conditional, both layers of gypsum board are the same. Next, chamfers are removed from the edges of the sheets for grouting the joints. To do this you will need a drywall edge plane, see fig. on right. If you have a one-time job for yourself, then it is better to rent it, because... This tool is not suitable for anything else. You need to take a plane for 2 angles - 45 and 22.5 degrees; why - see below, about grouting joints.

Note: cut to size in width the last sheet along the row (belt) needs to be approx. 10 mm narrower than what was measured. The fact is that for thermal deformation of the sheets themselves, you need to give a gap of 1-2 mm between them. On a wall of normal length there will be about that much. You can take this value into account when marking the wall for the frame, but there will be a lot of fuss, and a profile width of 60 mm on a regular wall is enough to compensate for the discrepancy.

The next point is marking and drilling/cutting holes and openings for sockets, lamps, pipes, ventilation, etc. To do this, it is convenient to use a sheet of ordinary packaging cardboard 600 mm wide: it is applied to the wall, pressed over the recesses with the palm of your hand, the contours are outlined with a pencil, cut out and transferred to the gypsum board. Holes in drywall are cut with a pen or compass drill, and rectangular openings are cut with a drywall knife. It is similar to the mounting one, only its blade is thicker and stronger.

Frame assembly

Installation of the frame for gypsum board cladding begins with the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. If adjacent walls are not sheathed, PN profiles are also placed on them to create a solid frame, see fig. on right; connecting its corners - on each side with a TN9 self-tapping screw (so that the head does not protrude). The first attachment points to the floor/ceiling are 60 mm from the edge; the rest - in increments of approx. 300 mm so that the last one is also 60 mm from the other edge.

Next, straight hangers are attached to the wall, the PS/PP profiles are inserted into the PN/PPN (first at the bottom, then at the top), move them to place and check their evenness horizontally and vertically using a rule and a plumb line or a level in which there is a tube for plumbness. If prev. the work was carried out carefully, no additional alignment will be required. Then the “whiskers” of direct hangers are bent to the rack profiles and the profiles are attached.

The next stage is the installation of crossbars. How it is done is described above, but sometimes, say, when laying pipes running along a wall, a second level needs to be added to the frame. This is done using 2-level crabs, see fig. left. It may also be necessary to assemble the crossbars from pieces, because they will be used for cuttings. Assembling rack and guide profiles from pieces is only permissible as a last resort!

The profile sections are connected end-to-end using straight connectors, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig.:

In critical places, for example, in the lining of door openings, windows and mortgages for hanging furniture and equipment, it is highly advisable to connect crossbars with racks not in a simple way, but with the help of special crosses, so-called. single-level crabs, pos. 3 and 4.

In the end you should end up with something like the one in Fig. on right.

Angles

In the case where all walls are covered with plasterboard, special attention should be paid to lining the corners. There are usually no internal problems; Schemes for lining internal corners for cladding on a frame and combined with glue (see below) are given in pos. 1 and 2 next rice. By the way, over the past year and a half, Knauf gypsum boards have become completely disgraceful: everything is in bubbles, soft, like foam, you can pierce it with your finger. Not counterfeit, original.

With external corners it is more difficult. You cannot place them on the edges along the rack; 2 sheets at once will end up with hanging edges, which is unacceptable. The stand needs to be placed on one side of the corner, a hanging profile of the same type must be attached to it, and the edges of the gypsum board should be attached to it, pos. 3. Then a PU profile using Fugenfüller glue or similar is applied to the joint of the sheets, pos. 4. It is better to take PU with reinforcing mesh, pos. 5.

The PU protrudes above the gypsum board by 2-2.5 mm. This protrusion must be reduced to the general level of the skin at a width of 400-500 mm, then it will not be noticeable and will not interfere with any finishing. Smooth out the PU protrusion with gypsum starting putty and a spatula, respectively. width.

Insulation under the skin

Generally speaking, insulating from the inside is bad: there is a high probability of dew point getting inside the room. It is strongly recommended to lay insulation under the gypsum board sheathing only if the wall is already insulated from the outside. In this case, insulation under the gypsum board cladding of the concrete wall is done according to the scheme in Fig. on right. If the wall is brick or wooden, before installing the frame, a semi-permeable waterproofing membrane is applied to it, the same as is used for thermal insulation of roofs: it will not allow water to pass through, but will release its vapor. The best option is a microperforated membrane.

Instead of penofol, you can use folgoizol or a similar vapor barrier. It is applied to the frame before installing the sheathing with a continuous layer of foil inside. The overlap of the edges of the vapor barrier tapes is from 15 cm; The joints are taped with construction tape. The edge flaps on the floor, ceiling and walls are the same; the excess is trimmed off after installing the skirting boards. If there is no external insulation yet, then it is necessary:

• The sheathing is made from gypsum boards.
• The insulation should not be mineral wool, but cellulose insulation (ecowool), it does not fall off and retains its insulating properties when wet. True, ecowool will cost approx. 25% more expensive.
• Before installing the frame, apply a microperforated membrane to any wall.

Sheathing

To mark the holes for attaching the gypsum board to the frame, pioneer holes of approx. 2 mm in diameter, I place the sheets in place and use a mechanic’s scribe to mark the places of notches on the profiles. The distance of the sheet from the floor of 20-30 mm is ensured by scraps of wooden slats. Mark them and don’t lose them, otherwise the holes won’t fit together later!

The number of attachment points is 45-70 per sheet with a length of 2000-3000 mm, respectively. There are 5 points on the short sides (3 on the racks and 1 between them); the rest are evenly distributed along the long sides and along the center line. The extreme points should be 9-12 mm from the edge of the sheet.

An important point when attaching gypsum boards to the frame is screwing in the screws. The screwdriver must be set at minimum speed so that the head of the screw just presses into the cover paper without tearing it, as in pos. 2 fig. In other cases, the fastening will be weakened by 1.5-1.8 times, and if it is not screwed down enough (item 1), then the protruding fastener heads will weaken the casing. After fastening is completed, the heads of the screws are rubbed with gypsum putty.

Note: if the sheathing on the frame has 2-3 belts of vertical sheets, then there is no point in staggering it - it will not add strength to the sheathing, it will only make the frame overly complicated. At the joints of the belts, you need to place cross members (see above), so that the horizontal joints fall exactly in their middle, and fasten the gypsum board as usual.

On wood

Attach the gypsum board sheathing frame directly to the wooden wall, as in Fig. - a grave mistake. Apparently, the construction people have already had a lot of grief and trouble with this: there are many schemes of floating sheathing under gypsum boards in a wooden house wandering around the RuNet. In fact, ordinary straight hangers can be an effective damper between a “walking” wooden wall and gypsum board sheathing; you just need to place them correctly.

The cladding of wooden gypsum board walls is carried out using vertical counter-lattice made of beams from 60x75; wider (60x100, 60x150) - it won’t be worse, it will only take away more space from the room. The frame layout is standard, made of PN/PS profiles. As for attaching direct hangers to beams, there are 2 options.

The first is in a house made of laminated veneer lumber and with central heating. The mounting legs of the hangers are bent back and attached to the beam from the sides, so the entire sheathing will be stiffer. The second - in other cases: the hangers are attached to the beams with pairs of 6x60 wood screws through an oval hole in the shelf of the hanger (see again the picture with fasteners). Self-tapping screws are taken with faceplates and screwed into the wood, retreating from the edges of the hole by 6-10 mm. In this case, it is advisable to make the cladding 2-layer from 9 mm sheets (arched gypsum board).

Seams

The methods for grouting joints between gypsum plasterboard sheets/slabs vary depending on the type of decorative finishing of the wall. For elastic finishing that requires an absolutely flat base, but is not afraid of microcracks underneath (non-woven or foam wallpaper, PVC-based photo wallpaper, plastic tiles), the chamfer on the edges is removed at 22.5 degrees so that the apical angle of the V-shaped groove between the plates is 45 degrees. The groove is rubbed with starting gypsum putty with plasticizer flush with the general surface.

For other types of finishing, the edge plane is set at 45 degrees, and the apical angle of the groove will be 90 degrees. In this case, the groove is filled with putty (preferably adhesive) in some excess, then rubbed into a strip. Next, until the putty begins to set, apply sickle tape (on the left in the figure) and press it with a polished steel spatula (on the right in the figure) or roll it with a slightly damp smooth roller. When the grout has hardened, rub the putty and serpyanka with a smooth transition into the general plane, as on the outer corner, see above.

Note: First, a pair of folded L-shaped pieces of serpyanka with wings along the seams from 15 cm are applied and pressed onto the crosshairs of the seams. Then a tape is laid along the seam with the same overlap on the wings.

Skirting boards

Skirting boards along the contour of the skin are attached to the floor or ceiling. If adjacent walls are sheathed, then a PU profile with reinforcing tape is placed in the inner corner, as on the outer one, and a plinth is attached to it using mounting adhesive.

Without frame

Sheathing gypsum boards with glue without a frame, as stated at the beginning, is quite possible. But, contrary to popular belief, its technology is determined primarily by the unevenness of the wall, and not by its material. Options for gluing gypsum boards to walls are shown in the figure:

Method for pos. c – combined; First, a sheathing made from strips of the same gypsum board is glued to the wall. According to method b, lumps of glue are approx. 10 cm in diameter are applied in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 250 mm. The height of the lumps is the greatest unevenness of the wall + 20 mm, because The optimal thickness of the adhesive layer is 12-20 mm. The wall for gluing gypsum boards must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt.

Note: Prepare the glue exactly according to the instructions. It is unacceptable to mix dry glue with water; you only need to mix it with a drill and a mixer. In general, the strength and reliability of the glued sheathing greatly depends on the quality of the water for preparing the glue.

The gypsum plasterboard is glued to the wall with continuous control of horizontal (rule) and vertical (level with a bubble on a plumb) level. Here the stumbling block for beginners is a crushed slab. It is unacceptable to pull it away from the wall; you can only press it down. In this case, preliminary gluing of beacons on the wall from scraps of working gypsum board or any other can help out, see fig. on right. Companies involved in drywall will gladly give away small waste from arched gypsum boards; to them they are just garbage. The crushed beacon can be torn off and glued again; in this case, the beacons are simply a support.

Beacons are glued to the wall so that they fit between the cakes or strips of glue on the work plate. You need 4 beacons per gypsum board/sheet at some distance from the corners. Beacons are first glued to the bottom row, leveling with a rule, then from the beacons of the bottom row the rows are led upward, pressing down with a rule and checking with a level. GKL slabs/sheets are glued when the glue under the beacons gains strength, i.e. after 3-4 days.

Note: Recently, “people’s builders” have made it even cheaper and easier to stick gypsum boards on the wall, replacing the glue... with polyurethane foam. Technically, this looks very doubtful, but there is no more or less long-term experience in operating such skins, so anything is possible in the future. Watch the video, if you want, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEu7IJdnqVA, and then decide whether it’s worth trying. In damp, cold (but not below freezing!) utility rooms, it’s probably worth it. If it lasts there, it will work anywhere. And the method is ridiculously simple and cheap.

GKL decor?

It is well known that gypsum boards are used to make voluminous decorative interior details (on the left in the figure): arches, niches, shelves, suspended ceilings, even cabinets. However, flat multi-level decorative finishing with plasterboard is also possible, in the center in Fig. To do this, the blanks are glued to the wall by applying a thin (approx. 2 mm) layer of drywall adhesive to them with a notched trowel. If the room is being sheathed in a cramped space, where there will be no joints of slabs on the walls, for example. balcony, then you can simply paint the casing, and stick PVC skirting boards or corners on the corners, on the right in Fig. An option for cladding with joints is not to chamfer the edges, leave the gaps between the plates 2-3 mm, and roll a T-shaped PVC furniture edge into them with a smooth roller.

Suspension for gypsum board

To hang furniture and household appliances on a gypsum board-covered wall, you must pre-provide embedded parts made of wooden beams or OSB in the frame. If the suspension point accounts for up to 20-30 kg, the mortgages can simply be attached to the profiles, as in the figure:

If there is more weight at the suspension point or expensive equipment (TV, microwave) is suspended, then the mortgages must be framed with crossbars from the profile of the racks. Well, if the suspension point is less than 15-20 kg, then the suspensions can be attached through the skin, see, for example. video clip.

You will do the right thing if you choose plasterboard for interior wall decoration. At the same time, not all home craftsmen understand how to properly install this material. After reading the article, you will learn how to properly decorate walls with plasterboard with your own hands.

Finishing technology

Wall cladding with plasterboard is conventionally divided into five stages:

Stage 1: preparation of materials and tools

There are different types of plasterboard for interior decoration of house walls, so it is necessary to choose it wisely. The main parameters by which this material differs are the following:

• thickness– for walls it is necessary to use sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm;

• moisture resistance– the choice depends on the type of room. If you plan to finish a bathroom or kitchen, you should use KGLV moisture-resistant plasterboard. For “dry” rooms, regular drywall is suitable. .

In addition to drywall, you will need some other materials:

• frame elements are PS and PN profiles, as well as direct hangers and self-tapping screws;
• primer;
• serpyanka mesh;
• putty - starting and finishing. The latter will only be needed if you plan to paint the walls.

As for tools, the set should be as follows:

• electric drill;
• metal scissors;
• mounting knife;
• screwdriver;
• painting cord;
• building level;
• set of spatulas;
• rule;
• a set of grids for grinding with a jointer;
• roller with cuvette.

After preparing all the tools, you can start working.

Stage 2: marking the wall

Before finishing the walls with plasterboard, they must be marked. Otherwise, the surface of the walls may turn out uneven.

The marking is applied like this:

1. First of all, mark on the ceiling a line for the location of the guide profile along the wall that you will sheathe with plasterboard. The line should be located at least 40 mm from the wall. If you plan to insulate the walls, then the distance must be increased by the thickness of the insulation.
   To get a straight line on the ceiling, step back an equal distance from opposite corners and mark the points. Then fix the paint cord between these points, pull it down slightly, and release it. As a result, the cord will hit the ceiling and leave a mark in the form of a straight line;

1. the line obtained on the ceiling must be transferred to the floor so that it is located in the same vertical plane. To do this, you can use a plumb line, which marks several points on the floor. These points are then connected by a line.
   Instead of a plumb line, you can use a building level, with the help of which vertical lines are drawn from a line on the ceiling on two opposite adjacent walls. Next, these verticals are connected by a line on the floor;

1. Now you need to apply markings with your own hands directly on the wall that you will sheathe with plasterboard, indicating the location of the PS profiles. To do this, step back from the corner 10 cm and draw vertical lines in increments of 60 cm;

1. On the resulting vertical lines, mark the location of the hangers. They should be installed at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

According to this scheme, you need to apply markings to all the walls that you are going to finish with plasterboard.

Stage 3: frame assembly

The process of assembling the frame is quite simple, and the following step-by-step instructions will help you with this:

1. first of all, cut the guide profiles along the length of the wall;

1. then fasten the profiles according to the markings on the wall and floor using dowel nails;
2. Next, you need to secure the hangers to the wall using dowel nails. If you are finishing walls made of foam blocks with plasterboard, you must use special fasteners designed for porous ones, as in the photo below;

1. Next, you need to cut the PP profiles to the height of the walls, then insert them into the guides and secure them in the hangers. Please note that profiles may sag. Therefore, they must be aligned using the rule.

So that all PS profiles are located in the same plane, i.e. To make the wall smooth, first install the outermost racks from the corners, and then stretch the cords between them. Align the intermediate posts using them as beacons;

1. Now you need to secure the jumpers between the posts. To do this, the profiles need to be trimmed, as shown in the photo above.
   To give the wall the greatest strength, arrange the jumpers in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 50 cm.

In a wooden house, before starting to assemble the frame, it is necessary to treat the walls with antiseptic impregnation. This will protect them from rotting and other biological negative influences.

According to this scheme, you need to sheathe all the walls in the room.

Stage 4: framing the frame

The next stage is cladding the walls with gypsum plasterboard. To do this, you will probably first have to cut out individual sheets, taking into account the size and features of the walls.

GCR is cut quite simply:

1. mark the cutting line by marking several points;
2. attach a rule to the line;
3. cut the cardboard with a mounting knife along the line along the rule;

1. break the sheet and cut the cardboard along the fold line.

Finishing walls with plasterboard is quite simple - the sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. However, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• The edges of the plasterboard should be at the center of the profile. There should be no “hanging” edges, otherwise the finish in these areas will crack over time;

• screws should be located in increments of 25 cm;
• The caps of the screws must be recessed, otherwise they will interfere with further finishing of the drywall.

Wooden frame walls can be sheathed with gypsum plasterboard without installing an additional frame of profiles. In this case, the sheets are attached with self-tapping screws directly to the supporting structure.

Taking these points into account, it is necessary to sheathe all walls.

Stage 5: rough finishing of drywall

The final stage is the rough finishing of the drywall, which is carried out as follows:

1. First of all, cut chamfers from the joints of the sheets five millimeters wide. If the edge of the sheet is rounded, then, of course, there is no need to cut the chamfer;

1. then you need to stick serpyanka onto all joints;
2. Next, treat the surface with a primer using a paint roller. Apply the primer evenly with a thin film. If necessary, treat hard-to-reach places with primer using a paint brush.

After the wall surface has dried, reapply the primer;

1. Now you need to fill the joints of the sheets and screw heads with starting putty. For these purposes, you can use a narrow spatula.

Try to apply the putty carefully to get as smooth a surface as possible;

1. After the putty has dried, treat it with a brush;

1. then the walls need to be covered with a starting layer of putty using a wide spatula. The filling technique is described in detail in other articles on our resource devoted to this topic.

In the process of applying the starting layer, you need to glue plaster corners to all outer corners, which will protect them from chipping;

1. After the putty has dried, the surface must be sanded with a P120 mesh stretched over a jointer. Make circular movements with the tool. This will get rid of all significant irregularities;
2. sanded walls must be cleaned of dust and then primed again;
3. if you plan to glue wallpaper to the walls or, for example, apply decorative plaster, then you can stop working on this. If the walls are to be painted, it is also necessary to apply a thin layer of finishing putty.

The principle of putty in this case remains the same, with the only difference being that the “finish” must be applied even more carefully;

1. The finishing layer must be sanded with a fine abrasive mesh. The work must be done very carefully so that the surface of the walls is perfectly smooth. Therefore, work must be performed in bright light.
   To check the quality of grinding, hold a bright lamp at an acute angle to the walls. This will allow you to notice even the smallest flaws on the walls.

Sanding walls is a very dusty job. Therefore, when starting this procedure, be sure to protect your respiratory system with a bandage or respirator, and also wear safety glasses.

This completes the interior finishing with plasterboard.

A few words about frameless installation of drywall

In addition to the frame technology for installing gypsum boards, which we reviewed above, there is also a technology that does not require the installation of a frame. Its principle is that gypsum board sheets are simply glued to the walls using special glue or even starting putty.

This technology can be used if the walls are relatively flat. As a result, work is carried out much faster, and the space of the room is practically not reduced.

However, the frameless technology of finishing walls with plasterboard also has some disadvantages:

• does not allow you to insulate the walls from the inside, as well as hide communications between the wall and the gypsum board;
• requires preparation of the wall surface. Before making the frame, as we found out, there is no need to prepare the walls. Therefore, the frameless installation method is not always faster than the frame one.

Therefore, when choosing a technology, you should consider the pros and cons.

The process of installing gypsum boards using this technology is as follows:

1. work begins with preparing the walls. At this stage, remove the old finish. If there are areas on the walls with peeling or crumbling plaster, these must also be removed;

1. then the surface of the walls should be cleaned of dust using a vacuum cleaner or brush, and then wiped with a damp cloth;
2. Next, the walls need to be primed. If the surface is smooth, for example concrete, it is necessary to use an adhesive primer. If the walls are plastered, priming is done with a deep penetration primer;

1. While the primer on the walls dries, the primer should be applied to the back side of the gypsum board;
2. After the primer has dried, you can begin gluing the sheets. To do this, glue or starting putty is applied to their back side in lumps, which are evenly distributed over the entire surface of the sheet.

1. After covering the walls with plasterboard, a rough surface finishing is performed according to the scheme described above.

Conclusion

From the article you learned that the technology for finishing gypsum board walls is quite simple, although it is not without some subtleties. For more information, I suggest watching the video in this article. If there are any points you don’t understand or if you encountered any difficulties while working, write your questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

Covering walls with plasterboard is a simple and inexpensive way to level surfaces. In many cases, choosing it is more rational than using plaster, for example, when preparing a wooden wall for subsequent finishing. Plasterboard cladding can be carried out in a short time; additional effects of its use are improved sound and heat insulation in the room.

Drywall for walls can be different; the desired one is chosen based on the conditions of the room in which they plan to carry out repair work:

• normal – suitable for rooms with normal humidity levels;
• moisture resistant – used for bathrooms and rooms with high humidity;
• fire-resistant - they are used to sheathe sections of the wall around stoves, fireplaces, chimneys;
• fire and moisture resistant - designed for finishing attics, attics, furnaces in private homes.

The minimum thickness of plasterboard for wall cladding is 12.5 mm. Thinner materials are used for other purposes: finishing the ceiling or creating three-dimensional structures.

Installation methods

There are 2 methods of fastening gypsum boards: frame and frameless.

The latter is used if the walls in the room do not have significant curvature. Frameless installation will be cheaper, since the sheathing material is attached directly to the surface requiring leveling, fixed with glue; the construction of additional sheathing is not required. Attaching plasterboard to the wall in this way is only possible if the ceiling height does not exceed 3 m.

The frame method is suitable when you need to lay insulation or communications under the sheathing. In this case, the sheathing is first placed on the wall, and only then the gypsum board is secured.

Frameless method

To decorate walls with plasterboard with your own hands you will need:

• construction level;
• set of spatulas;
• rule;
• a jigsaw or a sharp construction knife for cutting sheathing material;
• construction grater;
• square, pencil;
• rubber mallet;
• electric drill with a special attachment for mixing the solution;
• screwdriver;
• gypsum putty;
• brush and roller for applying primer;
• primer with antifungal additives;
• serpyanka (tape for sealing gypsum board joints);
• self-tapping screws

Before covering the wall with sheets of plasterboard, it is necessary to prepare the surface.

Preparation

The old covering from the wall must be removed. If the surface is painted with oil paint, and it is not possible to completely remove it, notches are made on the wall with an ax or hammer drill. This is necessary to improve adhesion.

All irregularities, recesses and cracks are filled with putty or polyurethane foam. After the solution hardens, remove excess so that nothing protrudes above the surface.

Before attaching drywall to the wall, you need to prime it and mark it. First, the surface is cleaned of dust with a broom or brush. Then apply one or several layers of deep penetration primer, using a roller for smooth areas, and a paint brush for corners and other hard-to-reach places. Allow at least 2 hours between coats. You should start marking only after the wall is completely dry.

Marking

Wall cladding with plasterboard is carried out only after marking the surfaces, otherwise distortions are possible. To work you will need a level. The easiest way to work is with a laser, but a bubble one will also work.

The marking should be carried out taking into account possible deformation of the sheets: a gap of approximately 1 cm should be left between the end of the gypsum board and the floor, and 5 mm between the gypsum board and the ceiling. A control line is drawn near the ceiling; it is usually not required from below, since it is easier to form the required indentation by placing 10 mm thick plywood under the plasterboard during installation.

Using a plumb line, check the evenness of the corners of the room and draw a vertical line at the junction of the walls. Attach drywall to the walls begin from this mark.

Glue selection

The composition is selected taking into account the evenness of the surfaces.

Installation with gypsum or cement based adhesive

This is the most popular way to install drywall on walls.

Work order:

1. The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions specified by the manufacturer.
2. The plasterboard is turned over to the wrong side. Apply the mortar in long broken lines along the edges of the slab around the entire perimeter. On the sheet itself, glue is applied in dots with a diameter of 12-15 cm, maintaining a distance of about 20-30 cm between them. For reliable fixation of drywall on the wall, it is necessary that at least 10% of the entire area of ​​the slab is covered with adhesive.
3. Work starts from the corner. Place 1 cm thick plywood on the floor to leave a gap. Bring the drywall to the wall to the vertical marking line, apply it, and align it relative to the line.
4. Apply the rule over the stove to evenly distribute the composition. Using a building level, make sure that there are no deviations to the side. If they exist, they correct the shortcomings.
5. After the adhesive composition has completely dried, the drywall is additionally fixed using dowels.
6. Using a similar method, further cladding of the walls is carried out with whole sheets of gypsum plasterboard, and only after this they begin cladding the remaining narrow sections of the wall. To do this, measure the open sections of the wall and cut out parts of the required size from the slabs.

GCR is cut with a jigsaw or knife. The edges should be made at an angle so that the joints can later be filled with putty.

Installation on polymer compounds

Cladding gypsum board walls with synthetic glue can be done in two ways - apply the composition to the slab in the same way as when using dry mixtures, or first fix the sheets on the surface with dowels, having previously leveled them, and then fill the voids between the drywall and the base with foam.

The hardening time of the glue depends on the composition.

Fixing with polyurethane foam

To cover walls with plasterboard using this method, apply foam to the edges around the perimeter of the slab and draw several lines along the main part. Immediately after applying the composition, the sheet is applied to the wall and its position is leveled.

The final hardening time is about a day. After this, the drywall will be firmly glued to the wall, and it will no longer be possible to tear off or correct its position.

For uneven surfaces, a different method is used - first fix the plasterboard, and then foam the voids.

Step-by-step instructions for finishing walls with plasterboard using this method:

1. The plate is fixed to the wall along the marking line. Drill holes in the wall for dowels (the gypsum boards are not removed). In total, for one sheet, for reliable fixation, you will need about 10-12 self-tapping screws, which will need to be placed evenly over the entire area.
2. After drilling the holes, the sheet is set aside, then plastic dowels are inserted into the wall.
3. Foam rubber is glued to the back side of the plasterboard using double-sided tape. Pieces of material should be placed at a distance of 15 cm from the holes made. To determine which side should be used to attach the drywall to the wall, and which side should the foam be attached to, you should inspect the slab. There are no markings or markings on the front, and there is a slight bevel at the side edge.
4. Place the sheet on the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws. The position of the sheet can be leveled by tightening the fasteners to different depths - in the place where the wall deviates, the self-tapping screw is not screwed in all the way.
5. This method is used to install drywall on walls.
6. Make holes in the plasterboard, placing them in the areas between the screws. Through these holes, polyurethane foam is pumped into the space between the sheet and the wall.
7. After the foam has hardened (in at least a day), the screws can be recessed a couple of mm into the sheets or the fasteners can be completely unscrewed and then these areas can be puttied.

This technology of covering walls with plasterboard involves a large consumption of foam, but allows you to cope with significant curvature without installing a frame.

Frame method

To work you will need:

• metal profile;
• building level;
• drill or hammer drill;
• pendants;
• spatulas;
• construction knife or jigsaw;
• tape measure, pencil;
• metal scissors.

Covering walls with plasterboard begins with preparing the surfaces. It is believed that the frame finishing method does not require removal of the old finish and priming, but it is recommended to do it - this will increase the service life of the erected structure.

The frame can also be made from wooden slats, but this method is used less and less. Wood is susceptible to rotting and deformation, so finishing walls with plasterboard using wooden lathing is impractical.

Marking

Work order:

1. A plumb line is fixed to the wall in the corner under the ceiling.
2. Screw in the self-tapping screw in the place where the plumb line touches the floor. Mark all 4 walls this way.
3. Stretch the thread around the entire perimeter, securing it to the screws. The resulting line is transferred to the floor and ceiling.

The minimum distance from the wall for installing the frame is 4 cm. There is no point in making it too large - the greater the distance from the base to the plasterboard partition, the smaller the usable area of ​​the room.

Frame installation

The guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling along the marking lines using dowels. Before this, it is recommended to stick a sealing tape on the back of the profile in order to reduce the vibrations that will be transmitted by the floors to the frame.

The profile is cut using metal scissors.

The next step is to mark the lines for installing the rack profile. The racks should be placed at a distance of 60 cm, so that when facing walls with plasterboard on a metal frame, the joints of the slabs fall directly on the center of the profile. If a high load is subsequently planned on the plasterboard partition (for example, shelves, wall cabinets, a TV will be installed), then the distance is reduced to 40 cm.

By measuring the distance from the top to bottom rails and subtracting 1 cm, you get the required height of the racks. Parts of the required length are cut from the profile. Place it first into the lower guide, then into the upper, positioning it in accordance with the markings. The racks are attached to the wall using hangers.

Before covering the wall with plasterboard, insulation is laid, if necessary.

Installation of gypsum boards

Proceed to installing the sheets on the frame. The cladding begins with whole slabs, placing them in a checkerboard pattern: the solid sheet is secured first, aligning it along the bottom guide. The next sheet is mounted on the ceiling rail. This technique makes the structure stronger.

Self-tapping screws are used to attach drywall to the wall on a profile. Screw them in, setting the minimum number of turns on the screwdriver, otherwise the sheet may be damaged.

The total number of fasteners per 1 sheet is at least 45. 5 screws are screwed into the short side of the gypsum board, the rest are distributed along the long sides and the center of the slab. The fastener head should be recessed into the sheet by 1 mm. Do not tighten the screws too much.

When they finish covering the walls with plasterboard with their own hands, they move on to finishing the constructed structure.

Finishing

At the final stage, the joints of the slabs are grouted. The method is selected taking into account what decorative finishing will be used in the future.

When using elastic materials (plastic tiles, non-woven or photo wallpaper with a PVC base), chamfer both edges at an angle of 22.5 °, then the angle of the resulting groove will be 45 °. After this, fill the groove with gypsum-based starting putty.

When finishing plasterboard walls with other materials, the seams are processed differently. Cut the edge at an angle of 45° so that the angle formed between the plates is 90°. To fill the grooves, use adhesive putty. It is applied generously, then rubbed, and the serpyanka is immediately applied on top, pressing it into the solution. After hardening, the composition is rubbed, forming an even plane.

Having learned how to properly cover walls with plasterboard yourself, you can begin repair work. If you adhere to the work technology in the process, the finished structure will be stable and durable.

Finishing walls with plasterboard in a wooden house

Everyone chooses for themselves... the house in which they will live. Someone builds a house from concrete blocks, despite the horror stories told about concrete structures, someone prefers a house made of brick, and someone prefers to build from environmentally friendly wood, without fear of fire.

Fire danger is perhaps the most serious and severe drawback of wooden houses, despite all its advantages. And although building materials are treated with fire retardants, they partially solve the problem.

Another disadvantage is the instability of the walls due to fluctuations in humidity in the wood. A new home is especially unstable. Several years will pass before the new building settles down and all the logs (beams) fall into place.

Advantages of finishing walls with plasterboard

GKL is a favorable material for building finishing. You can sheathe interior partitions with plasterboard not only in a wooden house, arrange exclusive suspended ceilings in several tiers, create niches or shelves.

The manufacturer offers several brands of gypsum boards:

• GKL - standard;
• VGKL - waterproof;
• OGKL - fire-resistant;
• OVGKL is waterproof and fire resistant at the same time. This drywall is more expensive than standard, but will also last much longer. It is not afraid of high humidity, and will not ignite at the slightest spark.

For finishing inside the house, it is advisable to use the last two brands of gypsum plasterboard. For installation in the toilet and bathroom (shower) rooms, a waterproof sheet of plasterboard is better suited.

It is necessary to say a few words about the advantages of covering wooden walls with plasterboard:

• With this finishing, you get perfectly smooth surfaces that can be puttyed, painted, covered with any type of wallpaper, and even ceramic tiles can be glued onto them.
• Provide some thermal and noise insulation.
• Relatively low price of material and work process.

GKL boards are easy to work with. They are freely cut with a jigsaw, which allows you to cut out any shapes (for ceilings), any sizes of slabs for wall cladding. You can work with plasterboard yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Finishing rules

Inside the house, wooden walls can be protected with fire-resistant gypsum board sheathing. Finishing the walls with plasterboard in a wooden house will even out the unevenness of the log or paving stones and give it an ideal look. Heat and waterproofing materials are placed between the wall and the sheathing, and electrical wiring is located.

But before we start covering a log or cobblestone wall, we need to take into account several nuances.

The first nuance

Wood, unlike brick or concrete, is a living, organic material. The tree breathes. In conditions of high humidity, it is capable of absorbing moisture, and in conditions of low humidity, it releases water into the atmosphere.

Poor people buy raw wood in the hope of drying it themselves. It costs less than dry. Building a house from raw wood creates some problems, since during the drying process the wood decreases in size and sometimes warps. As a result, cracks form in the wooden wall.

Pre-purchased material should not be placed on damp ground. It is necessary to place unnecessary boards, beams, and pallets under it. Provide a canopy. Between the logs (beams) you should lay bars 4–5 cm high so that air circulates between them. This way you will ensure ventilation and natural drying.

Ideally, construction of a house will begin in late spring - early summer. Warm air and sunlight will speed up the drying of the wood. Do not rush to caulk and cover the walls with plasterboard. The building should be open for at least another month to dry out a little. After this time has passed after the walls have been erected, all cracks should be caulked, that is, soft plastic material should be hammered into the cracks between the logs. It could be:

• Dry moss - in Rus', walls have long been caulked with dry moss;
• Tow is a fibrous material used by plumbers for waterproofing;
• Jute is a material made from jute wood;
• Sealant is a synthetic foam material.

All these materials do not allow moisture to pass through or accumulate and fill cracks well.

Second nuance

Wood is a flammable material. And dry wood - even more so. And in order to make it more difficult to ignite, it is necessary to treat the masonry inside and outside with fire retardants - anti-flammable agents. But this is not enough.

To protect your home from fire, it is important to install the electrical wiring correctly. After all, a short circuit is possible in it. Finally, overheating of contacts under high load on the electrical network can also cause a fire. Electrical wiring is laid in plastic (metal) boxes from the outside. In this case, the boxes must be of high quality and non-flammable. It is possible to lay wires between the wall and plasterboard sheathing. The best option for protecting wires in this case is to lay them in metal sleeves. We install the electrical wiring at the same time as installing the frame under the drywall.

Protection against fungi and other microorganisms is necessary. After fire retardants, the walls are treated with antiseptics.

Third nuance

This point is directly related to covering walls with plasterboard in a wooden house. The fact is that fresh wood, especially if poorly dried for some time, will shrink. It's connected:

• with loss of moisture from the tree;
• With the landing of logs or beams in place, their compaction among themselves under the influence of the weight of overlying logs and the roofing superstructure.

The landing of the house can be 10–15 cm per floor.

It was mentioned above that wood breathes, either absorbing moisture or losing it. This factor also affects the unstable behavior of the walls. Some tree species are prone to warping, especially with high humidity or sudden temperature changes. And if plasterboard sheets are firmly attached to such a wall, they will quickly begin to crack, change their location, and become deformed. To avoid this, a so-called sliding or floating frame was developed. Its essence lies in the fact that it does not move along with the load-bearing walls of the house. Plasterboard sheets are attached to this frame.

Frame arrangement

It is no coincidence that the frame is called sliding. It is designed in such a way that the shrinkage of the external walls does not affect or displace the internal cladding. You will learn about the intricacies of installing such a frame below.

Metal carcass

The metal frame consists of the following elements:

The following tools are required for work.

• Roulette,
• Level,
• Screwdriver,
• Grinder for cutting profiles,
• Step ladder,
• Pencil or marker.

First, a horizontal guide profile is attached to the floor. Then areas for installing vertical posts are marked. They are located at a distance of 40 or 60 cm from each other, so that every second (third) rack falls on the joint of the drywall sheets. The length of the racks should be 10–12 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling. It is advisable to choose the thickness of the profiles for the racks at least 0.6 mm.

Next, take each rack, mark the attachment points on it so that they do not fall between the logs (beams) of the wall, and so that there are no gaps or cracks at the attachment point. From the marking down, use a grinder to cut a groove, the length of which should be 10 cm and the width about 5 mm (slightly larger than the diameter of the screw).

The cut is made in such a way that the marking point is approximately in the middle of the cut. The edges of the groove should be smooth and even. Therefore, they must be cleaned with sandpaper. There should be at least 3-4 marking points, and accordingly, grooves on each rack. All racks and their installation locations must be numbered.

Where the racks are not tightly adjacent to the wall, it is necessary to secure stops made of plywood or pieces of timber at the fastening points so that all the risers are in the same plane. Simple self-tapping screws can be used as stops. Now that the marking is completed, all the racks are marked and numbered, you can begin to install them.

The racks are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws with washers, which are screwed into the upper part of the groove, with an indentation of 1 cm. The self-tapping screw should hold the racks tightly, but you should not tighten them all the way; the washer under the screw head should turn.

Next stage. The same U-shaped profiles are attached to these racks, but inverted towards the first ones. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws on the side. Stiffening ribs are laid across the wall. Thus, the metal frame for covering the walls with plasterboard is ready.

There is another way to install a frame under drywall. It is suitable for log walls, walls with large irregularities.

Wooden frame

A wooden frame is easier to install, but is not as stable as a metal frame. It can only be arranged in a well-maintained house. All beams for a wooden frame must be dry and treated, like the walls, with a fire retardant and antiseptic.

Wooden beams are attached in the same way as metal ones. Through eyes are cut into the beams. The hole for the self-tapping screws must be countersunk so that the head of the screw is recessed and does not protrude above the beam.

Plasterboard wall covering

When starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, it is necessary to take into account some features of the cladding. Before covering the walls with plasterboard, it is recommended to first make the ceiling. To finish the ceiling, soft hangers and rods should be used.

Do not tightly join the wall and ceiling slabs. It is recommended to leave a gap of several centimeters between them. This gap is closed with a cornice. The drywall below should also not fit tightly to the floor. It is located one to two centimeters higher. This gap will be covered by a baseboard. The plinth and cornice are attached to horizontal surfaces.

When installing drywall, it is also recommended to leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This gap is glued with sickle tape and hidden under putty. When the walls move, this clearance will prevent cracks from appearing. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–35 centimeters from each other. The screw heads are slightly recessed into the sheet. Then they will be sealed with putty.

The use of a frame structure allows for vapor and heat insulation of walls using a special vapor barrier film and mineral wool.

Conclusion

It is advisable to maintain the constructed house without finishing for a year. During this year, you will have time to put the roof in order, install gas and water supply, install heating, without which there is no point in starting wall cladding. Since the heat inside the house will significantly affect the drying process of the wood and the behavior of the walls. But even if the house has stood, it is recommended to finish the walls on a floating frame, since minor, invisible deformation of the walls will still occur for several more years.

Before starting finishing, it is recommended to prime the walls covered with plasterboard. Then the putty and other materials will adhere better.

Perhaps readers have their own subtleties and tricks for arranging a frame for gypsum boards; someone will decide that the described methods are not effective and stable enough. We invite readers to speak out on this topic and ask questions.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL) are an excellent substitute for the usual method of leveling walls - plaster. The article discusses the main methods of using this material.

Plasterboard wall covering

Plasterboard sheets are produced in sizes 1200*2500 mm, thickness varies from 6.5 to 12.5 mm. The technical characteristics of plasterboard allow it to be used for interior decoration in all rooms. There are types of drywall with increased moisture or fire resistance.

Interior finishing with plasterboard: advantages and disadvantages

Cladding walls and ceilings has a number of undeniable advantages:

• the ability to hide communications under sheets, such as electrical wiring or heating pipes;
• the ability to level even very uneven walls;
• high installation speed;
• Mineral wool can be placed in the voids between the wall and the sheathing to increase sound and heat insulation.

Significant disadvantages include the higher cost of materials and work relative to plaster, and the inability to hang heavy objects without prior preparation.

Sheathing methods

GCR surfaces are decorated in 2 ways:

1. According to the frame.
2. Directly on the wall or ceiling.

The frame is usually made of galvanized metal thin-walled profile, but it can also be made of wood. When fastening sheets without a profile, special glue and dowels with self-tapping screws are used.

GKL sheathing on a frame: technology

When attaching material using a frame, it is very important to mount it correctly.

• The guides attached to the walls must be strictly vertical, as well as the intermediate racks.
• The distance between the centers of the posts should be 600 mm, i.e. such that the joint of the sheets falls on the profile.
• To strengthen the structure, you can reduce the size to 400 mm.
• If it is necessary to join sheets vertically, install a horizontal profile to tie 2 sheets together.
• Drywall is attached to a metal frame with black metal screws, 25-32 mm long, and to a wooden frame - with wood screws of the same length.
• To improve the strength and insulating properties, lining with sheets in 2 layers is possible. In this case, the sheets are sewn in a checkerboard pattern.

How to sew drywall without frame

GCR without using a frame can be fixed with special glue or mechanically, using dowels and self-tapping screws. It is possible to combine these 2 methods, first securing the sheets with an adhesive composition, and after it has dried, with self-tapping screws. At the same time, it is important to fasten the drywall with hardware in those places where the glue is applied, and not between them, because the coating can be deformed and even broken.

GCR decor

Plasterboard walls and ceilings are painted, covered with wallpaper, plain or painted, and finished with decorative plaster compounds. The walls are lined with tiles, decorative bricks, stone, etc.

Suspension

Only light objects, such as photographs, decorative shelves, and lightweight mirrors, can be hung on plasterboard walls. To screw self-tapping screws into gypsum boards, special dowels are used: driva, molly or “butterflies”. Provided that the location of the profile is known exactly, you can tighten metal screws to hang various objects directly into the frame elements. To fasten heavier objects (cabinets or bookshelves), it is necessary to arrange special mortgages.

Do-it-yourself profile mounting technology on walls

To install a false plasterboard wall, you will need the following tools:

• Tape measure, square, pencil.
• Level.
• Plumb.
• Thread (lace).
• Metal scissors or grinder.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver.
• Pliers.
• Profile cutter.
• Construction knife.
• Planer for drywall.
• Putty knife.

Materials:

• Guide profile PN.
• PS rack profile or PP ceiling profile.
• The suspension is straight.
• Single-level connector (crab).
• Dowels.
• Self-tapping screws for wood and metal, black.
• self-tapping screws for thin plates with a press washer, pointed (bugs).
• Damper tape.
• Serpyanka tape or paper tape for joints.
• Putty.

Methods of fastening with dowels: how to install

A damper tape is attached along the perimeter of the future wall, and a guide profile is placed on it. The frame element is installed on the floor in the form of an inverted letter “P”, secured with self-tapping screws to a wooden floor or with dowels and self-tapping screws to a concrete floor. After that, the guide is attached to the ceiling strictly vertically above the floor profile, then the guides are attached to the walls.

It is necessary to maintain strict verticality, unless otherwise provided by the design.

How to choose fasteners for brick, concrete and wooden walls

To attach hangers and guides to the walls, you may need various hardware, depending on the material of the walls. Frame elements are attached to wooden walls with wood screws. For installation on brick or concrete surfaces, you need to use dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel nails. The use of dowel-nails increases the speed of work, but they are more difficult to dismantle if necessary to remake the structure

How to mount and lay the profile correctly

After installing the guides around the perimeter, mark the location of the rack profiles. Usually they are placed at a distance of 600 mm between centers, so that the vertical joints of the sheets fall exactly in the middle of the profile. To give the frame greater rigidity, reduce the distance to 400 mm. Vertical lines are drawn from the obtained points, and straight hangers are attached to them in increments of 400-500 mm. Insert the rack profile cut to size with its ends into the guides on the floor and ceiling.

The rack profile should be cut 5-6 mm shorter than the distance between the floor and ceiling.

The rack profile is set vertically and attached to the guides with “bugs” or using a cutter, then attached to the hangers, constantly checking the verticality using a level. When all the profiles are secured, you should check the plane using a rule, a long level or a thread. Deviations from the plane of more than 2 mm should be corrected.

At the places where the sheets meet in height, additional horizontal profiles are installed. It is recommended to arrange such joints at the bottom of the wall.

How to screw gypsum board sheets to a frame: installing drywall on walls

Plasterboard sheets are secured using metal screws 25 mm long. The sheet is installed in place, secured to 1 screw, then adjusted to the level and secured to the rest. The fastening pitch should be approximately 200 mm or more often. The hardware is twisted so that the head is flush with the surface of the sheet without breaking through the paper.

The sheet must be fastened in one direction, for example, from left to right, from bottom to top. If you fasten the sheet in different corners, it may bend during further fastening.

First, whole sheets are attached, then parts are cut to size and the remaining parts of the wall are covered. The edges of the cut are processed with a drywall plane.

Before sewing up the wall with sheets, sound- and heat-insulating materials and wiring can be laid under the frame.

Grouting seams and dowel holes: how to finish them

Seams with a factory chamfer on the wall are taped with sickle tape or paper tape for joints. Seams without chamfer are cut using a construction knife. The surface is primed. Seams and recesses from self-tapping screws are puttied with gypsum-based putty mixtures. As a rule, the packaging of the material indicates whether it is suitable for sealing gypsum board joints or not.

Cladding and finishing the ceiling in an apartment yourself: what you need

To install a gypsum board ceiling you will need the same tools as for walls. Additionally, you will need a hydraulic level or laser level, a coated marking cord and a T-shaped stand made of bars or profile. It is more convenient to carry out all work on the ceiling with a partner.

How to attach to a concrete base on the ceiling

The locations of the ceiling profiles are marked on the ceiling. They are usually placed along a short wall with a pitch of 600 mm. The most convenient way to do this is with a coated cord. Then the hangers are attached to dowels with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. If the ceiling is lowered to a significant distance from the draft, you need to use special hangers, similar to Armstrong ceiling mounts.

Fastening the guides

Mark the mounting location using a laser level or hydraulic level, marking points at the corners of the room at a given height, usually as close as possible to the rough ceiling, and drawing lines using a marking cord. A damper tape is attached to the wall, then guide profiles. A gypsum board ceiling can be lowered for laying insulating materials or installing communications.

How to hang sheets correctly

The gypsum boards are attached to the frame, starting from the corner, with the long side along the short wall, parallel to the ceiling profiles on the plane. The most convenient way to fasten the sheets is to support them with a special stand, which you can purchase in a store or make yourself from a block or profile in the shape of the letter “T”. It is recommended to use moisture-resistant plasterboards.

Do not release the sheet until it is secured with at least 15 screws.

Cladding uneven walls with your own hands: what is worth remembering

When covering walls, it is important to maintain verticality and ensure that the profile does not deviate from the plane. If the gypsum board is attached to a wall without a frame, it is important to attach the screws in places where the sheet will not “walk”, otherwise the screws will protrude on the surface. Before covering the walls, it is advisable to sweep or vacuum them and the space behind the frame; it is also recommended to prime them to avoid the appearance of dust.

How to install faster

To increase the speed of installing drywall on the wall, you need to correctly mount the frame and secure the first sheet without deviations in level. Most quickly, such work is carried out by two or three people, when one person is busy installing the sheets in place and cutting them to size, and the remaining 1 or 2 people are busy pulling them through with self-tapping screws. The use of professional screwdrivers with belt feeding of hardware significantly increases the speed of work.

What can be mounted on a plasterboard wall?

With appropriate preparation, almost any objects can be mounted on gypsum board walls, including cabinets and storage water heaters. To do this, during the manufacture of the frame, so-called embedded parts are made of plywood or boards. Lumber is sewn onto the rough wall so that the front surface of the embed is in the same plane as the frame. If the mortgage is deeper than the frame, the wall will push through when attaching hanging objects.

How can you cover plasterboard sheathing?

After sealing the seams and holes from the fasteners, a gypsum board wall can be painted or covered with wallpaper, covered with decorative plaster, or covered with textile wallpaper. It is recommended to cover surfaces made of moisture-resistant plasterboard with a continuous layer of putty, otherwise the green color may be visible through the finishing coat.

Also, walls can be covered with tiles, decorative stone or brick, stucco molding, and panels. It is not necessary to treat seams and marks from self-tapping screws before cladding.

Drywall is a modern finishing material that allows finishing work to be carried out with minimal labor and time costs.

Useful video

It is difficult to imagine modern renovations done without drywall. This material, unique in its qualities, has entered our lives so tightly that today it can be considered almost the most popular. But, despite all the popularity and demand, not everyone who starts repairs with their own hands manages to do it without mistakes and flaws.

And in this article we will talk about how to sheathe walls with plasterboard, and avoid making the most common mistakes.

There can be several ways to attach drywall, and we will talk about this in more detail below. But no matter which method you choose, or rather, which one is more suitable for your specific situation, you need to start finishing with careful preparation of the surface.

So, the first and most important stage is removing the old finish from the walls. Many may have a question - why do this if I am going to install a frame?

It's simple, without proper treatment, walls covered with plasterboard can begin to get wet, even if it is secured to a special frame. This is especially true for the external walls of the house, on which cold bridges traditionally form due to temperature differences.

You can, of course, get rid of them by insulating the wall, but this is a completely different conversation, and a different type of repair. In our situation, we do not provide additional insulation, but simply cover the walls with plasterboard, which means they need to be protected, and for this we must first clean them.

You can read about how to remove old finishing elements on our website, or watch the video in this article, which shows instructions for removing old wallpaper and paint. We will not focus on this, and will move directly to the next stage, which consists of treating the walls with antiseptics.

Antiseptics are special liquids that penetrate the structure of the material from which the walls are built and create an environment there in which bacteria are not able to multiply.

It is bacteria that cause mold to form on the surface of walls. And mold, in turn, begins to grow very quickly, and over time it will appear on the finishing surface, even if it is mounted on a frame and at a significant distance from the wall.

Advice! Many people wonder whether it is possible to cover walls with non-moisture resistant plasterboard. In principle, it is possible, but only if you are one hundred percent sure that your walls will not be exposed to moisture. On the other hand, the price of a moisture-resistant sheet is not much higher, and whether it makes sense to save on this is unknown.

So, take a brush or roller in your hands and apply a thick layer of primer to the walls. The more it is, the better the protection will be in the future. You should not save money on something that can significantly affect the service life of the finish.

After the walls have been treated, all that remains is to wait for complete drying, which can occur in an hour or in a few days, it all depends on the temperature and humidity in the room where the repairs are being made. In any case, you should not begin installation until the primer has completely dried, especially if you are going to install drywall without an additional frame.

Installation

As you know, there can be several installation methods, and there is no question of how to properly sheathe walls with plasterboard. The choice of method depends entirely on the characteristics of your home and the walls in particular. For example, if the walls often get wet, and there is no way to eliminate this, then it is best to install drywall on the frame.

On the other side. This method hides space, which means it is not suitable for rooms with a small area, where treasured centimeters cannot be sacrificed under any circumstances. In order to clearly decide on the choice of installation method, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors, and for this, you need to know all the advantages and disadvantages of both mounting options, but first things first.

Method one: fastening with glue

With this installation method, sheets of plasterboard are glued directly to the wall (see How to glue plasterboard to a wall yourself), and since we will not describe this entire process in detail, we suggest you watch a video on how to cover walls with plasterboard, in which everything is clearly shown, In the meantime, we will consider the main criteria.

Here are some things to consider when choosing this option:

• It is impossible to hide communications under drywall, such as electrical wiring or heating pipes, so this point will need to be taken care of in advance.
• Wet walls can become a significant hindrance with this installation method.. Moisture will begin to move from the walls to the finish, and over time, it will destroy even moisture-resistant drywall.

• Wall mounting can significantly save room space. Unlike the frame, here you will not lose cherished centimeters, and the area will decrease by a maximum of 3-4 centimeters.
• This method cannot be used if the walls have significant curvature.. The maximum allowable difference is 2 centimeters; if your walls are more crooked, you will have to abandon installation with glue.
• Glue installation is a more financially economical method of attaching drywall. All you need is dry glue and water. Besides. You don’t need a large set of tools here, which is also very convenient, especially considering. That you don't do home renovations very often.

• Simplicity is one of the most important factors. In order to glue a sheet of drywall to a wall, you do not need any special knowledge of skills or experience. Everything is extremely simple and clear, just look at thematic photos or video materials.
• This installation method is not suitable if, for example, we cover log walls with plasterboard. The fact is that drywall adhesive has very poor adhesion to wooden surfaces, and it only interacts with concrete or stone bases.

Important! Do not install drywall with adhesive if you plan to subsequently finish it with ceramic tiles. The weight of this material will create a constant load on the surface, and over time, the sheets will simply begin to lag behind the base.

As you can see, adhesive installation cannot be used in all situations. In some cases, it is not suitable at all, and therefore, there is only one option left.

Method two: mounting on a frame

And again, before moving on to describing the nuances and subtleties, we would like to show you a video of how walls are sheathed with plasterboard, which shows the entire process in detail. For our part, we can say that this method of fastening is more relevant, since it is considered reliable and durable, and walls made of plasterboard on a frame are not afraid of almost any impact.

So:

• Under the frame you can hide all communications running along the walls. Often, the thickness of the finished partitions allows you to hide inside not only electrical wiring or heating pipes, but also ventilation ducts, as well as chimneys.

• The empty space under the drywall can be used to install insulation, which is especially important in cases where the walls freeze and it is not possible to perform external insulation.
• Since when mounted on a frame there is no direct contact between the finish and the wall, the service life of drywall increases several times.
• The walls under the frame can be of any curvature. All guides are installed on special plumb lines, with which you can adjust the level of inclination of the profiles, and accordingly adjust the evenness of the finished walls.

• Any type of finish can be installed on such partitions., including ceramic tiles, the installation of which is completely excluded with the adhesive installation method.
• Frame finishing is much easier to restore in case of damage. It is enough just to tear off one sheet and change it to a new one. With an adhesive installation method, this process will be significantly more complicated.

As you can see, both installation methods have their advantages and disadvantages, but experts advise using exclusively the frame method, since it is much more reliable, and adhesive installation is used only in cases of emergency, when there are simply no other options.

So, let's return to the most important question of our article - is it possible to sheathe walls with plasterboard. Not only is it possible, but it is also necessary. Today, this is the simplest, most reliable, and most importantly inexpensive method of rough finishing walls, which is available to everyone, and on top of that, you can do this finishing yourself, without the help of specialists, and this is another reason to save your money.