How to lay corrugated sheets on old slate. How to cover an old roof with corrugated sheeting. How to cover a roof with corrugated sheets

Have you decided to replace your heavy slate roofing with a lighter, modern material? Don't rush to hire expensive professional roofers. In this article, RMNT will tell you how to do all the roofing work yourself.

Until recently, asbestos-cement slate sheets, invented back in 1901, were considered the main roofing material. Such an “eternal” roof met all the necessary qualities that were relevant at that time, but it also had one significant drawback - its impressive weight. Today, with the advent of new roofing materials on the market, slate is rapidly losing its position. The population massively covers their roofs with ondulin, corrugated sheets or. At the same time, hired construction teams, in order to increase the estimated cost of work, as well as make their lives easier, often convince the customer to carry out complete dismantling and make the roof from scratch. Others believe that it is enough to simply remove the old roofing material and you can safely lay a more modern one. The truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle. Let's try to explain what you really need to do.

Dismantling works

In order to build something new, we must first remove all the old things that interfere with us. That is, to carry out dismantling work. And, of course, you need to start dismantling with... a weather forecast. Before you start roofing work, you should find out if the weather forecasters promise us long and lingering rains. After all, we are already covering a living space, with all the internal work, so getting precipitation inside is categorically undesirable.

Important! Even if the weather forecasters give the go-ahead, still stock up on film, tarpaulin or other waterproofing.

For dismantling, we will need a nail puller, a wooden block, ropes and a pair of hooks the thickness of a slate nail, as well as two guide bars that will serve for the safe lifting and lowering of roofing materials.

Dismantling should begin in the reverse order of installation, that is, first remove the ridge, then the top row of slate, and so on until the bare sheathing. We pull out the nails using a nail puller, placing a wooden block in the place where the latter stops. Asbestos-cement sheets should be lowered along wooden guides, having previously hooked them onto the holes made with nails with hooks. Simply lowering slate along a rope is unsafe.

Do not try to dismantle the slate from the entire roof at once, if the team is small and you do not have time to cover the roof in one day, replace it in stages, first repairing one slope, then the next.

Following the slate, we also dismantle the old sheathing, leaving only the bare rafter system on the plane.

Rafter system repair

Since the requirements for the plane of slate and corrugated sheeting are different (installation of corrugated sheeting requires a perfectly flat surface), we will build this plane.

First you need to pay attention to the condition of the outer rafters and the presence of a plane as a whole. To do this, we tighten the screws in all four corners of the rafter slope we are repairing so that all 4 caps are 3 cm short of the beam. We pull the lacing from corner to corner diagonally, as well as along the rafters. Thus checking whether the plane is even and whether there is a bump on the wooden structure. The threads stretched diagonally should barely touch each other at the intersection. If there is no plane, we build it by unscrewing (but not tightening) the necessary screws.

Now, using the outer rafters as beacons, we stretch the lacing between them in increments of 1.5-2 m and inspect the rest of the rafter system. If necessary, we level the rafters with an edged board, and in case of severe damage to the wood, we completely replace them. In any case, such work can be completed without much labor by 2 people who simply have the skills to handle construction tools, while the manufacture of a new rafter system requires the efforts of an entire construction team with the participation of truly professionals in the roofing business.

Manufacturing of sheathing

The next step is laying the waterproofing membrane. It is laid horizontally on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom and rising to the ridge. The waterproofing should overlap so that water flows over it. We nail the film to the rafters using a stapler.

Important! Waterproofing should not be laid stretched; it should sag slightly, thereby increasing the size of the ventilated space.

In parallel with the hydraulic barrier, we install the sheathing. If this is not done, then problems will arise with how to get onto the plane of the rafter system without damaging the waterproofing membrane.

Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of a support beam (50x40 mm), which is attached on top of the waterproofing film along the entire length of the rafters. For installation we use a 4.2x75 self-tapping screw. The installation step is 35-40 cm. It is not necessary to use a beam that is long over the entire rafter; blanks of 1-1.5 m are quite suitable.

For transverse sheathing, an edged “shalevka” is suitable - a board measuring 25x150 mm. We start installation from the eaves itself and ending with the ridge. The first and last boards should go along the very edges of the rafters, the rest should be located in increments of 450 mm, that is, a 30-centimeter template must be installed between the boards (the lathing is designed for C21 grade corrugated sheets, for other types of iron the lathing pitch will be different).

When the sheathing is finished, we move on to the second slope. We also carry out all the above operations there. The only difference is in the installation of the last ridge board. It should cover the corresponding board of the opposite slope; for this, the latter is planed using an electric planer. Both boards are protected with one piece of waterproofing membrane, secured with a stapler.

Lastly, we install the wind board. It is attached to the end of the sheathing and should protrude above it to the height of the corrugated sheet wave, maybe a couple of millimeters lower.

Installation of corrugated sheets

When the work with the wood is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of corrugated board. It would be good to purchase it in a size equal to the length of the slope. This is the distance from the ridge to the end of the rafter, plus another 5-8 cm.

The sheets are carefully removed from the stack and fed onto the roof along inclined guide bars; for convenience, in the part of the sheet that will be covered by the ridge, a couple of holes for hooks can be made in the outer wave.

Important! Sheets of corrugated sheets need to be removed from the stack, not pulled off. The polymer coating is very easy to scratch.

The first sheet is laid out very carefully. How the rest of the iron will be laid will depend on it. To do this, we screw flags to the outer rafters, small slats 20-30 cm in length, which are installed in the same plane with the rafter system and protrude 10-15 cm beyond its limits. At a distance of 5-8 centimeters from the cornice, a self-tapping screw is screwed strictly perpendicularly into such a strip so that its head is higher than the wave height of the corrugated sheet. Next, between the two outer flags along the wave height of the metal sheet, we tighten the lacing. If it sags, the flags can be duplicated. Aligning with the thread, setting the iron is much easier.

Important! Any trimming of corrugated sheeting should be done from the ridge side; on the eaves side there should only be a factory cut.

The corrugated sheeting is mounted to the sheathing using screws with press washers at the rate of 6-8 pcs/m3. It is useful to calculate and mark the attachment points on the ground.

Important! We tighten the screws without fanaticism, the press washer should press the iron to the sheathing, but not be greatly deformed.

We install wind corners and a ridge. It is much easier to do this work right away than to later climb on slippery iron, with the risk of denting it or scratching it. To secure the ridge, long drills with a press washer are used, which can penetrate the thickness of the corrugated board and secure it in the tree. Installation is carried out through an external wave.

Important! All work at height is carried out only with the use of insurance and when the worker is in good health. Violation of these simple rules can lead to tragic consequences.

Video on the topic

Before covering the roof with corrugated sheeting, it is necessary to dismantle the previous covering. It is important to start doing this on days when rain is not expected. It is equally important to do this in virtually windless weather. But even if weather forecasts promise dry, windless weather, it is better to stock up on film, which you can use to close the attic space just in case.

When removing slate covering you will need the following materials and tools:

nail puller;
several wooden blocks;
ropes;
a pair of strong hooks.

You will need all these materials to effectively and safely dismantle and lower the old roof covering. We carry out the work in the reverse order of installation, that is, dismantling the covering must begin from the ridge. Next, they begin to remove the top rows of slate. This is how all the rows are removed sequentially, reaching the eaves overhang. Roofing nails are removed with a nail puller, under which a wooden block or piece of board is placed for ease of work. When the sheathing is completely exposed, it is inspected and, if necessary, the exposed and rotten sections of the structure are replaced.

To lower slate from the roof with your own hands, use the holes in the material that are left after the roofing nails. Hooks are inserted into these holes, and wooden blocks are placed under them to facilitate sliding.

Attention! Lowering slate sheets on ropes alone without using hooks is much more dangerous.

It is better to replace slate with corrugated sheets not on the entire roof at once, but in separate sections. For example, you can first dismantle the slate from one slope and lay profiled flooring on it, and then carry out the work on the other slope. This way you will be insured against weather surprises.

Rafter system repair

If the roof is being replaced, then before doing so it is necessary to check the integrity and condition of the old rafter system. It is important that the rafter system meets the requirements of reliability and safety. It is necessary to inspect all rafter legs. They should not show signs of damage by insects, cracks or rotten areas.

If worn rafters are identified, they must be replaced with new elements that have been treated with antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants. Before replacing the slate with a new coating, you need to check the evenness of the slopes. To do this, do the following:

Screws are screwed into the corners of the slope so that their heads are a couple of centimeters higher than the rafters.
We stretch the cords diagonally across the slopes. You can also use a level to check the evenness of the surface and identify the presence of protrusions and recesses.
If at the point of intersection the cords barely touch each other, then the slopes are perfectly smooth.
Otherwise, you need to take measures to level the roof slopes. To do this, use an edged board, which is attached to the beam with bolts.
After leveling the outer rafters, they can be used as beacons and checked for the evenness of the rest of the rafter system.

Small unevenness in the roof can be leveled using edged boards. And those elements that are completely worn out are replaced with new ones, treated with special compounds. You can inspect and repair the roof truss system yourself if you have minimal experience in the field of construction and repair.

Installation of sheathing

It is necessary to completely dismantle the sheathing if the old waterproofing has become unusable. The waterproofing carpet is attached directly to the rafter system using a stapler. Strips of waterproofing material are rolled out and laid across the direction of the rafters and fastened with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Advice: to ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space, you need to lay the waterproofing carpet not stretched, but with a slight sag.

First, a counter batten is nailed to the rafters over the waterproofing. To do this, use a beam with a height of 30-40 mm. It will provide the necessary ventilation gap under the roofing.
Next, the sheathing is filled across the counter-batten and the direction of the rafters. To do this, you can use a board that is attached in increments of 30-40 cm. Work begins from the eaves overhang, moving towards the ridge. It is better to perform a continuous sheathing above the ridge and along the edges of the eaves overhang.
The ridge part is covered with an additional layer of waterproofing.
After this, wind boards are installed.

Installation of profiled sheets

The roof is covered with corrugated sheets, lifting it along specially laid boards or bars. To make climbing easier, you can drill a couple of holes in the outer wave for the rope. It is important to choose a location for the holes that will then be covered by the wave of the top sheet.

Important: when transporting the corrugated sheet, try not to damage the polymer layer, as this will contribute to corrosion of the coating.

Installation is carried out in compliance with the following rules:

The sheets begin to be installed from the eaves overhang, having previously installed a drip line.
The next row of sheets should overlap the previous one by 20 cm with a roof slope of 15-45°. And with a slope of less than 15 degrees, an overlap of 30 cm is made. The overlap of adjacent sheets in a row is 1-2 waves.
To make it easier to fix the metal profile on the sheathing, you can mark the rows.
We fasten the corrugated sheet with self-tapping screws and a rubber sealing washer.
After installing the profiled sheets, a ridge element is attached to the slopes. To ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, a porous sealing tape is placed under the edges of the ridge trim element. It tightly fills the corrugated sheeting, protecting against debris and insects from entering the ventilation gap, but does not impede the passage of air.

Requirements for roofing

The vast majority of developers choose material according to certain criteria, namely price and durability. This is true to some extent, but it is far from effective. In order to choose the right roofing covering for a particular case, you must first study the requirements for such products.

Moisture resistance. This indicator will indicate how the product copes with repelling moisture. Some materials do not have high values, so they are mainly used in arid regions.
Durability. The longer the service life of the material, the better, this is understandable. But it is worth noting that this parameter is influenced by many factors, so it is better to look at the average value and rely on stability.
Sustainability. This parameter shows how effectively the material copes with the negative impact of the environment on it. This refers to precipitation, wind and other external loads.
Strength. A coating may have good rigidity, but at the same time have low strength. To use it effectively, you need to look for something in between these qualities.
Tightness. Everyone knows that a lot of precipitation falls on the roof. To prevent them from penetrating into the interior of the roofing pie, it is very important to create a sealed plane.

If you have access to regulatory documents, then you can find a more detailed list of requirements there, but this is still enough to select high-quality roofing products.

Now, let's move on to the materials themselves.

Asbestos wave slate

If you are looking for something to cover the roof of your house inexpensively, then this product is just for you. However, it has some disadvantages, but let's talk about everything in order.

Asbestos slate is made from asbestos fibers and a binder mixture. The output is a high-quality product, with good rigidity, which is determined by waves. Their number can be from 6 to 8. Of course, you can find other types of slate, but they are unlikely to meet the requested requirements. In addition to all this, the canvas can have standard dimensions or reduced ones.

Not so long ago, the roofs of all private houses were covered with slate sheets, but what actually led this product to such high popularity? Let's look at the advantages of asbestos slate.

Cheapness. This is the first thing developers look at when trying to find a cheaper way to cover a roof. The price for this material is really not high. The fact is that all the components for its production are taken from natural resources, therefore, a lot of such material can be made.
Strength. As already mentioned, due to the waves, the canvas is given optimal rigidity. In addition, asbestos sheet has good strength indicators, but is very fragile.
Durability. A slate covering can lie on a roof for about 30-40 years without maintenance, and more than this period if the surface is periodically cleaned of build-up and the sheet is painted. The use of paint will not only protect the material from the harmful effects of the environment, but will also reduce the emission of asbestos dust.
Resistant to sunlight and does not burn. Due to the inclusion of non-flammable components, the material is completely resistant to open fire and ultraviolet radiation.
Good sound insulation performance. There are special strips on the surface of the sheet that reflect noise coming from outside and do not let it into the attic.

Reading the above points, you probably thought that this is an ideal material for roofing. This is true, but it depends on what kind of building it is used to cover. Numerous studies have shown that during the operation of asbestos slate, a certain amount of harmful substances are released that negatively affect the human body. This problem can be solved by painting the surface. In addition, you can highlight the simple type of roof, and this often scares off many developers.

Ondulin

This material began to be produced in France in the 1945s, but it became widespread only a few decades later, since ordinary people after the war had no time to select roofing materials. In European countries, ondulin has taken root very well, and many developers abandoned slate and switched to it without hesitation. But the overwhelming majority of Russians confidently abandoned bitumen slate, citing the high cost of the product.

The material is made from natural cellulose mass, which is mixed with a bituminous substance and special thickeners are added to everything. The output is a wavy material with small dimensions and weight. Color is set by adding an admixture of pigments. In appearance, it vaguely resembles asbestos slate, which is why some roofers call this product Euroslate.

To date, ondulin has undergone a number of significant changes in composition and quality and is practically a new material, but in an old shell. The advantages include such properties as:

Moisture resistance. Due to the high bitumen content in the product, this parameter is at a very high level. Moisture coming from above has no chance of getting into the roofing pie. Of course, if serious mistakes were made during installation, then water can still get inside.
Ecological cleanliness. Since the sheet does not contain harmful toxins, Euroslate is safe for the environment.
Small mass. Due to the use of natural cellulose, a thin sheet weighs almost nothing, so the canvas cannot create serious loads on the base, and this is an excellent reason for saving.
Easy to install. Laying a rectangle that is small in size and weight is much easier than laying a heavy sheet of metal.
The coating can be used as an additional coating. To do this, a wooden frame, essentially a lathing, is laid on top of the old coating. Euro slate sheets are mounted on it and the roof is ready.

Well, of course, you can’t ignore the minuses.

Deformation of the canvas. If a discharged sheathing is used as a base, then after a few seasons you will notice some deformation of the sheets. There will be indentations in places where they are not supported by boards.
Flammability. Due to the large amount of bitumen included in the material, it burns well. Due to this feature, this product is strictly prohibited from being used on public buildings and structures.

Low service life. If you purchase products from well-known and high-quality manufacturers, then the average duration of use of such fabric will range from 15 to 25 years. As for fakes, the canvas will not last even 10 years.
Loss of pigment saturation. Discoloration occurs after just a couple of years and this is naturally not good.
Installation restrictions. To install such a roof, it is very important to choose the optimal temperature. The fact is that in cold weather bitumen becomes brittle, and in extreme heat it practically flows. The optimal conditions for installing ondulin are 10-20 degrees above zero.

In general, the material is good, but it is highly undesirable to use it in regions with high rainfall.

Corrugated sheet

Today, profiled sheets can be compared in price to asbestos slate, so I put them in second place as the cheapest coatings. If you immediately rejected slate and are still looking for something to cover the roof of your house inexpensively, then corrugated sheeting is the best solution.

Profiled sheets are produced from rolled steel using high-quality European equipment. One sheet contains several layers. The price range of the product depends on their quantity. For example, if a sheet is covered with a protective layer and nothing else decorates it, then it will be as cheap as possible. And if polymer layers are added to it, then the price naturally increases.

It is worth noting that not all polymer layers can provide good coating quality. Some of them are low quality, they will peel off the metal after a couple of seasons. In addition, during installation work, the likelihood of violating the integrity of this layer is significantly higher compared to using high-quality polymers. As you understand, the price for high-quality products is significantly higher, therefore, you will have to choose for what purpose to use this coating.

At first, profiled metal sheets were not very attractive to private developers due to their low quality. But over time, when production began to use new technologies, everything changed for the better. Today, this material can be confidently called universal. It is used not only in the roofing industry, but throughout the construction industry.

I won’t go far from the topic and will go directly to the advantages of profiled sheets.

Strength. When a steel sheet is rolled, stripes remain on it; they are called waves. The higher the wave, the greater rigidity the sheet of metal will have. In addition to the wave height, it is important to pay attention to the thickness of the metal itself.
Does not burn. As you know from the laws of physics: metal is not a flammable material, therefore, such a coating can be used as a roof on public buildings and structures.
Relatively cheap. I already spoke about price jumps a little higher. Essentially, the fewer layers a sheet includes, the cheaper it costs. And of course, their quality also influences the price.
Long-term operation. Although the metal itself cannot withstand prolonged exposure to moisture, additional layers protect it. First of all, adding zinc to the metal immediately reduces the likelihood of corrosion. As additional protection, polymer layers are applied to the metal.

Light sheet weight. Roofing grades of corrugated sheets are very light in weight, so there is no need to create a reinforced rafter frame; you can get by with something simple.
Long sheet length. Thanks to this fact, you can safely purchase a sheet of metal that will fit your slope. A minimum number of joints will ensure good roof tightness and, as a rule, long-term operation.

The metal roof itself is a good thing, but do not forget about the disadvantages.

Roofing corrugated sheets have a smooth surface. Of course, this is not bad in a sense, because the removal of precipitation in the winter season will occur naturally, but all this will be a disadvantage. If you live in snowy regions of the country, then you will have to install snow guards to prevent the snow from falling like an avalanche.
High thermal conductivity. A thin sheet is not able to retain heat escaping from the roof space, therefore, a large amount of energy will have to be spent on heating the premises.
Low sound insulation. Noise coming from outside will echo throughout the attic space. You will even hear the birds that land on the roof, not to mention the rain.

The last two drawbacks can be eliminated by laying thick insulation, but then the final cost of the entire roofing system will increase significantly.

Metal tiles

Metal tiles can be classified as already in the middle class of building materials. It looks good on absolutely any home. In addition, imitation of natural tiles allows residents to rise in the eyes of neighbors or guests.

This product is still produced from rolled steel, but using a different technology than corrugated sheeting. This sheet of metal has a more pleasant appearance, but otherwise I don’t see a difference. All the same protective components made of polymers and zinc. The only thing is that metal tiles can be made from non-ferrous metals, such as aluminum or copper. However, such enthusiasts are few.

I would like to note that today there is a lot of this coating in the construction markets. If you don’t know what to cover the roof of your house with, then choose metal tiles from the following options:

Andalusia
Shanghai
Monterrey
Cascade
Valencia

All of the above types have good reviews from different classes of developers. But you shouldn’t blindly rely on advice; study the material yourself and only then decide whether to buy it or not. If you do not know what material to cover the roof of your house with, it is better to seek help from specialists. This product is very similar to corrugated sheeting, so I will not consider its positive and negative sides, if something is not clear, then see the previous paragraph.

Before considering the following coatings, I would like to tell you a little about condensing moisture, because this is the main enemy of metal roofs.

Condensation occurs due to excessive humidification of the air in a certain room. Since the rafter system is the skeleton of the entire roofing system, first of all we will protect it. The attic space must be well ventilated, otherwise all elements will rot and fail. The same applies to the roofing pie. Here the materials will not rot, but will lose all their useful qualities.

In order for natural ventilation to cope with its responsibilities, it is necessary to calculate the vents and ensure unhindered air outlet. Vents should be located under eaves overhangs. Their height, as a rule, ranges from 5 to 8 centimeters. Having ensured the influx of air masses, you need to take care of the removal of humidified ones. For this, a perforated ridge is installed. It helps remove steam from inside the room and also blocks access to the attic space for various pests.

If you are considering this particular material as a covering, then keep in mind that it is better to cover the roof in warm and dry weather. Then the wood will not be able to become saturated with moisture and will remain dry for a long time. Otherwise, you will start using the roof immediately with a large amount of moisture, and this can seriously undermine the quality of the rafter system.

Many developers do not understand one detail. It seems like they have chosen the material, but they still don’t know what is best to cover the roof of the house with. There is only one answer - whichever suits you best. Rely on individual preferences and create the custom home of your dreams.

Bituminous shingles

It is cheaper to cover the roof of a house with bitumen shingles, but you should take care of creating a high-quality foundation.

As you understand, asphalt shingles are made mainly from the bitumen component. But it contains many impurities that protect the material from external influences. I would like to note the mineral coating, which does not allow the sun's rays to affect the bitumen parts of the material.

There are quite a few varieties of soft tiles, but they differ not in the composition of the product, but only in its appearance. For example, some manufacturers produce material in 1 meter lengths, while others have a maximum length of only 0.8 meters. Thanks to the pigments used, manufacturers achieve beautiful patterns on the surface of the shingles, which significantly increases the aesthetic properties of this product.

Advantages of bitumen shingles:

The shingles are small in size and light in weight, so the installation process can be carried out by one person.
The rough surface repels extraneous noise, therefore, if you are planning a residential attic, then there is no need for additional sound insulation.
Due to the low density of the material, heat does not quickly escape through the roof.
Bitumen products are not subject to rotting and corrosion, so they will last their stated life without any problems.
The service life is about 30-50 years. Everything will depend on the quality of the material itself and its manufacturer.
Wide range of colors.

To look at the full picture you need to look at both sides of the coin, so let's look at the disadvantages of soft shingles.

Contains bitumen. From the previous paragraphs you already know how bitumen behaves in cold and heat, so you will have to carefully choose the moment to install such a roof.
Roofing systems with a slope of 12-18 degrees should be equipped with an additional waterproofing sheet, especially in serious units such as valleys or eaves overhangs.

It is unlikely that you will be able to move on the roof in the summer, as you will simply damage the roof.
Due to the rough surface, quite a large amount of precipitation will accumulate on the roof and to remove it you will have to take up a shovel.
Flammability. This has already been mentioned, so there is no need to repeat it.

As you can see, there is a lot to think about here. Many developers cover the roof of the house with other materials, but is it effective?

Other coatings

The only roofs that remain are standing seam roofing and tiles. I won’t talk too much about them since they are laid out extremely rarely.

Seam roofing is a roof made of ordinary straight sheets of steel. It is brought to the site in rolls, and only then rolled out and adjusted to size. In addition to steel, any other metal can be used that will not greatly burden the roofing system with its weight. The whole essence of this coating lies in its installation, or rather the creation of folds. Seams are the joints between strips of metal.

In appearance, such a roof is not very attractive, although in the first years it looks solid. The use of cheap metal destroys the entire canvas and over time it becomes corroded. But looking at rusty metal, especially on your roof, is not a pleasant thing, is it?

Now let's move on to the shingles. If you decide to make such a purchase, but still want to save money, then it is better to cover the roof with cement rather than clay. There will be no differences in appearance, except perhaps in color. It is worth noting that to install these roofs you will have to assemble a serious rafter system, otherwise everything will simply collapse.

If we draw a conclusion based on everything described above, then it will not be possible to say for sure what is the best way to cover the roof in a private house. For some residents, asbestos slate will be quite enough, but for others, natural tiles will not be enough. However, if you do not strive for sophistication, then you can consider slate, corrugated board or ondulin. In other cases, purchase bitumen shingles or metal tiles.

Flat roof coverings

So, I told you about coverings for pitched roofs, and now let’s move on to flat ones.

Many developers, when constructing a building with a flat roof, immediately run to consult roofers or contact a design bureau. Almost all people ask the same question: “what material is better to cover the roof of a house?” Here the case is exactly the same as with pitched ones, fortunately there are fewer materials.

Bitumen roll materials

A prominent representative of rolled materials can be called roofing felt. To date, it has undergone major composition changes, which has led to an increase in its service life. Previously, the service life was about 5-7 years, but a modern product can last on the roof for more than 15.

Bitumen roll materials are laid using the fusing method. For this, a gas cylinder and a special burner are used. This work is unsafe, so if you plan to do it yourself and for the first time, it is better to invite an experienced partner.

The structure of the material is thin, so you have to lay it in several layers, ideally if their number is 3-4. All layers are laid perpendicular to each other in order to reduce the likelihood of moisture leaking into the seams. The top layer of the roof should be laid with a special roofing material with mineral dressing. It will protect the canvas from the harmful effects of UV rays and mechanical influences.

Bulk, mastic and sprayed materials

If the roofing surface is not in use, then self-leveling, mastic or sprayed products can be used as a coating.

These coatings provide the surface with 100% waterproofing and adhere well to the surface. When installing such materials, it is very important to make a high-quality slope, otherwise puddles will form on the roof, creating additional load on the underlying elements.

Mastic materials are applied using a roller or other hand tools. When laying such a roof, you can lay a reinforcing mesh so that the substance is distributed more evenly over the surface. The result is an effective, but far from attractive roofing surface, and even with a serious drawback: you cannot move on it. However, it is quite suitable for temporary structures.

Sprayed materials include coatings such as liquid rubber. You are unlikely to be able to install this substance on the roof surface yourself, since you will need expensive equipment and the ability to distribute the amount of rubber over the plane.

Membranes

Membranes are still considered modern products, although they were invented quite a long time ago. These products are made on the basis of polymers that perfectly resist moisture and do not allow it to pass through their thickness. It is worth noting that using such a coating in small areas is not effective, so membranes have found great popularity in industrial construction.

Membrane roofing is divided into three types:

TPO. The base consists of thermoplastic olefins with admixtures of antioxidants, plasticizers and synthetic rubber. The result is a strong and durable material with increased fire resistance.

EPDM. Expensive coating with a reinforced body. This material justifies its cost due to its long service life.
PVC. In the modern world, almost everything is made from polyvinyl chloride. This connection makes the roofing material cheaper than similar analogues, which greatly attracts developers.

If you are trying to figure out what is the best way to cover a flat roof of a house, and to do it cheaper than others, then pay attention to roofing felt or mastic. Well, if aesthetics are important to you, then naturally choose polymers.

Safety precautions when removing slate from the roof

Dismantling the roof should be carried out observing certain safety measures:

Removing old slate from the roof

The easiest way is to remove the old slate covering with your own hands if the material is no longer suitable for further use. Traditionally, such a roof was installed using regular or rough nails, so the work requires only a nail puller, a hammer, a knife for cutting waterproofing, a ladder and a long ladder.

First of all, you need to get to the ridge of the roof and, using a nail puller, remove the fasteners that hold the ridge element made of wooden boards or bars, roofing felt or sheet metal. This will free up the top of the top row of slate. Then the sheets of roofing material are removed, starting with the one that was last installed - it can be easily identified by the overlap with the adjacent element.

Since the integrity of the old slate does not need to be preserved, to free the sheet it is enough to hit the heads of the nails with a hammer, recessing them into the wood. Holes form at the fastening points and the entire sheet or parts can be thrown down. Next, the fasteners remaining in the sheathing are pulled out using a nail puller.

Dismantling slate without damaging the sheets

If the old sheet material is suitable for reuse, the roof should be disassembled with the utmost care. In this case, work also begins with the removal of the ridge element. Then the slate sheets are removed in the opposite order of laying the roofing. The principle is simple: carefully, without damaging the sheet, the fastening elements are removed, and the removed roofing element is carefully lowered to the ground.

You can remove the fasteners without any problems if the roof is mounted on self-tapping screws. They are unscrewed using a wrench (if the fastener has a hex head) or a screwdriver with a suitable attachment (for a straight or Phillips slot). But this option is only possible when dismantling a fairly new roof.

Smooth nails are pulled out using a nail puller, under the heel of which it is necessary to place a board - this will prevent the sheet from splitting under a point load. If a nail goes right through the sheathing and its tip is bent, then you can remove it in two ways:

remove layers of vapor barrier, insulation and waterproofing from the inside of the rafter system, bend the free part of the nail and tap it from bottom to top, then pull it out with a nail puller from the outside;
bite off the nail head with a suitable tool (lever pliers, mini bolt cutter, etc.) or cut it off with a grinder.

Rough roofing nails (there are special corner notches on their body) are essentially permanent fasteners - they cannot be pulled out using a nail puller without breaking the nail itself or damaging the slate material and sheathing. Therefore, their caps are bitten off or cut off.

How not to damage slate when removing it to the ground

The easiest and fastest way to dismantle is with three people:

one person stands on a ladder or on the sheathing of that part of the roof where the covering has already been removed and dismantles the fasteners;
the second person sits on the skate or is nearby, holding the sheet, helping to tie it with a rope and remove it, carefully lower it to the ground;
the third assistant is on the ground, he unties the rope from the removed sheet and takes it to the side, neatly folding it.

When working alone, it is more convenient to dismantle the roofing with your own hands from the outermost element of the bottom row. Having removed the fastenings from it, the sheet must be moved and tugged, releasing it. Be sure to immediately cut off the waterproofing material so that you can easily move along the sheathing, using it as a ladder.

It is not advisable to use a rope to lower sheets - it is difficult to handle a slate sheet weighing more than 20 kg alone. In addition, you will have to constantly go down the stairs to untie the rope.

In this case, you need to take two or three long boards and install them at an angle of about 40-60 degrees, resting one end on the ground and placing the other on the cornice. Along these parallel guides, the sheets can be easily lowered to the ground, “accumulating” three elements one after another - the slate sheets will rest against the end of each other. As a result, you will have to descend to the ground less often, which will save strength and reduce work time.

To prevent the slate from splitting, you should provide the sheets with a “soft landing” - place bags, rags or other soft material at the base of the slide!

When building a roof, different materials are used as roofing: slate, tiles, and many others. But iron roofing remains the most popular. If you have the material, you can do the roofing work yourself.

Preparatory stage

Covering a roof with iron yourself begins with preparing sheet steel. When transporting, you need to be extremely careful to avoid scratches and chips.

The grease layer is removed from the metal sheet.
Drying oil, which is enriched with dyes, is applied on top.
After the drying oil has dried, you need to identify unpainted areas and paint over them.
Along the edge of the steel sheet, you need to bend a fold - a technological fastening element, which is also called a lock.

There are two types of folds: standing and lying. The sheets can be connected both longitudinally and transversely. And only in metal tiles are the sheets overlapped.

Making a fold

To make a fold yourself, you will need the following tools:

calipers;
comb bender;
wooden mallet;
metal scissors;
a workbench with a steel angle, a metal hammer with a flat side;
ruler.

With this set of tools you can make a rebated fold.

Place a sheet of iron on the edge of the workbench.
Mark the edge line, holding the sheet so that the line goes straight and does not move.
Using a mallet, bend the corners of the edge exactly along the line, you should get a beacon bend. It will allow further work to be done more accurately.
After the bend is made along the entire length of the edge, you need to turn over the sheet of iron and bend the edge to the end.
Process the other sheet in the same way, then it will be possible to connect them together.
The connection points must be secured with a hammer.
The longitudinal edge provides the necessary scar.

The standing seam is made using the same technology on the roof. To make a lock for ordinary sheets, you need to use a comb bender.

Roof covering technology

You can prepare iron sheets for roofing work in a workshop, but they need to be mounted on the roof itself. Before you start working at height, you need to make prefabricated elements from steel sheets directly on the site. This will make it easier to install later.

To properly cover a roof with iron, you need to follow the instructions:

With the help of ready-made lying seams, the sheets of iron are connected to each other on one side. The prefabricated element must at a minimum consist of two sheets on the short side, and, at a maximum, the entire height of the roof slope.
Secure the bend between the sheets, observing one direction.
Check whether the sheets are positioned correctly relative to the vertical.
Use a steel strip and a hammer to strengthen the connections.
The bend over the ridge should be done so that the edge on one slope bends by 6 cm, and on the second by 3 cm.
You need to fix the iron by first fastening the bend at the ridge, and then fastening the entire strip.
The sheets are fixed with clamps, which are attached to the roof sheathing and beams.
If the sheets are profiled, then they need to be fastened to the roof with special nails with rubber seals.

A roof made of materials with a polymer coating will not need to be covered with anything on top for all the years of operation. But ordinary steel will need to be primed and painted. This must be done immediately after completion of the roofing work. Steel sheets need to be painted twice. You can see what an iron roof covering looks like in the photo.

Many novice craftsmen want to cover the roof with corrugated sheets with their own hands, but not everyone knows how to do it correctly.

Recently, corrugated sheets have been used quite often in construction. Corrugated sheeting is a rigid material and has good aesthetic properties. This material can be used to cover the roof of a private house on a summer cottage or an industrial warehouse. The roof can have different shapes. The material is quite simple to install - even a master without experience can figure out how to cover a roof with corrugated sheets with his own hands. Corrugated sheets are steel sheets with waves.

The main difference between corrugated sheets and other materials is the molded profile, which comes in several types. Wall corrugated sheeting can be characterized by a small profile height and the thickness of the metal sheet. It can be used in places that are not subject to heavy loads.

Diagram of a corrugated roof structure.

Another type of profiled sheet is roofing. It is durable, the profile height is from 20 mm. Stiffening ribs give additional strength to the material; it can be used to cover hangars, fences and sheds.

Another type of corrugated sheet is load-bearing. This material has high strength and rigidity. It is made of thick metal, has a profile height of 45 mm or more.

To properly cover the roof with corrugated sheets, you will need to decide on the type of material. Grades N and CH are suitable for roofing; the profile height should be more than 35 m.

Tools needed to cover the roof with corrugated sheeting:

metal scissors;
drill attachment for cutting metal;
screwdriver;
special pliers;
roulette;
screwdriver attachment 8x45 mm.

Nuances to consider

Attaching profiled sheets is not difficult, but there are some features that should be taken into account. These include delivering the material and lifting it onto the roof of the house - all actions must be performed carefully so as not to damage the corrugated sheeting.

It is also worth remembering about safety: when performing any actions with metal, you will need to wear protective clothing; walking on the roof is allowed in soft shoes.

First you need to determine the installation method. Next, you need to make a flooring from boards under the valley slats and secure the end slats.

The installation of the roof should begin with laying the eaves strip. After this, you can begin to fix the profiled sheets from the end part. If corrugated sheeting is installed on a hip roof, then you need to start from the central part of the hip. For fixation, each sheet will require approximately 7-8 self-tapping screws. It is advisable to process some joints using metal rivets.

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How to fix corrugated sheeting near valleys, ridges and pipes?

The technology for installing corrugated sheets involves decorating the places near the valleys, pipes and roof ridge with metal sheets. You can do it yourself this way:

First, a valley of short length is installed. To do this, you need to cut the sheet at the bottom of the groove into several identical parts. First of all, the bottom sheet is mounted, after which the bottom rail is installed. Finally, the roofing sheet is installed.
Next, the end rail is mounted. The length of such a plank is 2 m, the overlap should be from 5 to 100 mm. Installation should begin from the overhang side towards the ridge of the roof. The excess near the ridge will need to be cut off; the entire end strip should cover at least one wave of the sheet. Next, the rail is secured to the end strip. The element installation step is 1 m.
At the next stage, the ridge strip is installed. In this case, you can use special smooth parts for skates. Qualified craftsmen advise laying sealing elements with fine corrugation under profiled sheets. Another option is to use elements that follow the profile of the roof. The overlap should be more than 100 mm. On the sheet side, the lath is secured using self-tapping screws. The installation step of fasteners is a maximum of 400 mm. All fasteners must be located under the casing. A ridge seal should be used for protection. In the case of a lateral connection, a longitudinal sealing element will be required. This part does not need to be installed on steep slopes.
Next, the installation of pass-through parts or outlet tubes is performed. All tubes consist of two parts. At this stage, it is recommended to install a snow-thrower. The diameter of the tubes should be approximately 10 cm. The tubes for ventilation must be insulated.

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How to cover a roof with profiled sheets?

You can install your own roof at any time of the year. This requires an ordinary plumbing tool. The material sheets can be easily cut and bent to the required size and shape, with virtually no waste.

Before covering the roof, you will need to install reliable waterproofing. A special membrane must be installed on the rafter structure. When installing an insulated roof, a layer of insulation is laid on the waterproofing material, followed by a layer of vapor barrier. In the case of a cold roof, a ventilated space should be provided.

The greater the roof slope and profile height, the larger the pitch can be. After the installation of the sheathing is completed, it will be possible to begin covering the roof. It is important to consider the following nuances:

The corrugated sheeting is laid from bottom to top from the end of the roof.
To install in even rows, installation must be done parallel to the roof overhang.
The profiled sheet is attached to the sheathing with special self-tapping screws for roofing, which are equipped with a polymer washer for sealing.

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How to cover a flat or pitched roof yourself?

If the roof slope is less than 12°, installation of corrugated sheets involves overlapping the sheets by at least 2 waves. Additionally, it is recommended to seal the joints with bitumen or silicone-based sealant.

When covering a pitched roof with corrugation, it is recommended to start installation from the bottom corner of the slope, in this case you need to protrude about 20-30 cm beyond the cornice. The sheets are fixed along the cornice at the bottom of all waves.

Each subsequent sheet must overlap the previous one.

Corrugated sheeting consumption table for roofing.

If the roof slope is approximately 12-15°, then the sheets should be overlapped by at least 20 cm. If there is a roof whose slope angle is 15-30°, then the sheets should be overlapped by 15-20 cm. A roof with a slope angle of more than 30° should be overlapped by 10-15 cm.

The sheets are fixed according to the following scheme: at the end parts of the roof, self-tapping screws are attached to the outermost sheathing strip; the installation step of the fasteners should be 50 cm. In the middle, the sheets are attached to the sheathing strips on one side. To decorate the sides and the ridge, it is necessary to produce shaped profiled sheets.

If buildings are being reconstructed, it is better to leave the old covering (for example, a soft roof), while corrugated sheeting should be used to cover the existing structures of the sheathing and rafter system. The sheets are lightweight, so they will not increase the load on the roof.

In order for a roof made from this type of flooring to serve for many years, the cuts and places where self-tapping screws are installed will need to be treated with special compounds that can prevent corrosion.

We decided to replace the old roof with a lighter and more modern one; there is no need to immediately look for a construction team, such work can be done easily with your own hands. Dismantling. Be sure to check the weather forecast and stock up on plastic, even if the weather is expected to be clear.

Preparation

Prepare tools, a nail puller, rope, bars, and so on. Dismantling is carried out in the reverse order of installation. First, the ridge is removed, then the top row of slates and we reach the sheathing. The slate descends to the ground along guides. Then the sheathing is removed. If you have few assistants, do not rush, you can divide the work into stages, first work is carried out on one roof slope, then on the other.

Stages of work

Slings. Corrugated roofing and slate have different surface requirements. In the case of corrugated sheeting, it should be perfectly flat. To do this, screws are screwed into the four corners of the slope, the lacing is tightened and it immediately becomes clear how smooth the surface is. If necessary, the rafters must be hemmed with edged boards.

Lathing. Now we lay the waterproofing membrane horizontally, on top of the rafters. You need to start work from the bottom and go up to the ridge. Just never pull the waterproofing, it should sag slightly and the joints should overlap.

Along with the installation of the hydraulic barrier, lathing is done. Sheathing work begins with attaching the support beam over the waterproofing and further to the ridge. After all the necessary work has been carried out, a wind board can be mounted on the two slopes. Installation is carried out towards the end of the sheathing and with a slight protrusion in relation to the corrugated sheet.

Installation. Ideally, the size of the roofing material should correspond to the size of the slope. This distance from the end of the lines to the skate, with a small margin, is about 7 centimeters. Be sure to remove the sheets from the stack and not pull them out, since the polymer coating of the sheets is very sensitive to mechanical damage. In installation work, the main thing is to lay the first sheet with maximum precision, since it will completely depend on this how all the other sheets will lie. If it is necessary to trim a sheet, this can only be done from the ridge side. Do not overdo it with screwing in screws for corrugated sheeting, so as not to damage the metal.

Most importantly, do not forget about insurance for yourself and your assistants. Employee safety must come first.

Recently, there has been a tendency to replace traditional roofing coverings, such as slate, with metal tiles. Re-roofing an old house is a costly undertaking in itself, and the desire of customers to somehow reduce the estimated cost is quite understandable. Often, hired teams of roofers insist on a complete replacement of the roof, including dismantling both sheathing and rafters. And this entails an increase in the estimated cost of repair work. But there is experience in replacing the roofing covering on a roof without replacing these elements. In fact, there is a combined way out of the situation. An example of how you can re-roof an old house with minimal losses is described in this short article.

Corrugated sheet over roofing felt - problems

Whether or not to remove roofing felt before is a question that everyone decides for themselves. But if you take into account the experience of using this technology, it is better to familiarize yourself in advance with what a home owner may encounter after renovation:

Ruberoid is not capable of allowing moisture to pass through. Because of this, excess moisture will accumulate under the floor sheets over time, which can negatively affect the metal material;
In summer, under the sun's rays, the metal heats up to high temperatures. From the heat, the bitumen impregnation begins to melt and release harmful substances. Not only are volatile compounds harmful to human health, but the very smell of molten bitumen creates a feeling of discomfort. In addition, molten bitumen is a source of increased fire hazard;
Spots of bitumen that appear on the surface of the corrugated sheet make the entire roof untidy and ugly.

Video: Replacing the roof of a house without dismantling the old one

Advantages of corrugated sheets

The popularity of this material for covering the roof of an old house is understandable. It has a number of advantages, such as:

Completely waterproof;
Does not fade in the sun;
Practical to use - easy to clean from dirt;
Resistant to mechanical effects of precipitation in the form of hail;
It is light in weight;
Relatively inexpensive;
Easy to install;
It is used not only to cover the roof of an old house, but also to fencing a plot of land and cladding walls.

The professional sheet is divided into three categories:

Carrier.
Wall.
Load-bearing - wall.

Each variety has its own characteristics (both in weight and rigidity) and its purpose - for walls or to cover the roof of an old house:

For small areas where it is necessary to cover the roof of an old house, corrugated wall sheeting is quite suitable. In the case of large areas or with sparse sheathing, only roofing is used - with a profile height of 20 mm (the same approach applies to peaked roofs on the roof, since they have to experience high wind loads).

Let's look at replacing the old covering of a house using the example of a material such as slate.

Preparatory activities

The first thing you need to do before re-roofing an old house is... find out the weather forecast for the coming days. It will be absolutely deplorable if the old covering is removed and long and lingering rains begin. Therefore, it is necessary to prevent rain from entering the living space through the roof.

Important! Even if the meteorological center promises dry weather, it would be a good idea to have a roll of plastic film in stock to cover the roof in case of rain.

The main material for dismantling a roof covered with corrugated slate:

nail puller;
a pair of wooden blocks;
long ropes;
a pair of hooks (they can be made from slate nails);
To lower sheets from the roof, prepare two long guide beams (new material will also be lifted up along them).

Dismantling

Before covering the roof of an old house with corrugated sheets, the old slate roof covering is dismantled. The disassembly process begins from the ridge down. A nail puller is used to remove slate nails. A wooden block placed under the nail puller will help protect the sheets from cracks during dismantling.

Each sheet is lowered by means of a rope with iron hooks along wooden guide bars.

Important! Lowering sheets of slate simply with a rope is contrary to safety precautions.

If there are not enough manpower to reroof an old house, there is no point in trying to dismantle the roof in one day. Replacement of the coating can be carried out in a step-by-step manner. First, one ramp - after that you can begin repairing the other ramp.

Since the roof of an old house is to be covered, the parallelism of the rafters with the sheathing is checked - if there is no plane required, it will have to be dismantled, leaving only the rafter system.

Video: Re-roof an old house without replacing the sheathing.

Rafter system repair

Of course, to speed up the process, you can leave the sheathing. But according to building codes, there are significant differences in the requirements for deviations from the plane of slate and corrugated board.

The first step is to check the condition of the rafters along the edges of the roof. After this we construct the plane as a whole.

This can be done using lacing, stretched from four points, using screws screwed into the rafters to the same depth. The cord is stretched diagonally, from corner to corner, and along the rafters.

If the floor plane of an old house is damaged, it needs to be restored. To do this, the rafters are leveled with an edged board, tightly bolted to the beam.

Video. Cover the slate roof of an old house with corrugated sheeting.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing the roof of an old house made of corrugated board consists of laying a waterproofing film on top of the rafters. They begin to cover it with an overlap - from the lower tier gradually rising to the ridge. The film should lie freely without pre-tension. Fastening is easiest done with a construction stapler.

Simultaneously with laying the waterproofing layer, installation of the sheathing begins. This ensures access to roofing installation activities.

Lathing

A new sheathing to cover the roof of an old house with corrugated sheeting begins with fastening a support beam (50x40mm) or a solid piece or cut 1 - 1.5 m long with fastening along the entire length of the rafters.

Transverse elements for the roof of an old house can be made from 25x150 mm edged boards. The direction of installation is from the eaves and ends at the ridge, observing the following condition - the first and last boards are attached to the very edge of the rafters. The remaining stripes go in increments of 450 mm.

Important! The fastening step is selected depending on the type of corrugated sheet used.

The work ends with the installation of a wind board.

Laying the corrugated sheet

The final stage is installation of corrugated sheeting. It is desirable that the sheets be equal in size to the length of the slope - the distance from the ridge to the edge of the rafters, with a margin of 5-8 cm.

During the production process, we do not forget about careful handling of sheets. Each sheet is carefully removed from the stack and conveyed along wooden guides to the roof of the old house.

Important! Careful handling of corrugated sheeting will help protect the surface from scratches and dents.

Correct installation of sheets depends on how carefully the preparatory measures are carried out. The crucial moment is the verification and installation of the first sheet of the roof of the old house. It is he who will set the direction for laying the remaining elements of the roof of the old house.

For this purpose, it is necessary to screw limiters onto the roof of the old house to the outer rafters - small slats 20 - 35 cm in length. They must be installed in the same plane with the entire rafter system. Self-tapping screws are screwed into these slats at a distance of 5 - 7 cm from the cornice so that the head protrudes above the wave of corrugated sheeting.

This is necessary so that a metal string is stretched between the screws. Installing the first row along such a guideline will greatly simplify the work and prevent the material from going to the side.

Each sheet of corrugated sheeting for covering an old house is fastened using special screws - self-tapping screws at the rate of 7 - 9 pcs./m².

Important! The tightening torque of the screw must be pre-adjusted so that the press washer does not deform the iron of the roof of the old house.

It is better to install the wind corners and ridge immediately after installing the top row of sheets. So, there is less risk of scratching or making a dent on them. The ridge is secured with long screws - self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Video. Re-roof an old house.