How to properly prune fruit trees. How and when to prune fruit trees correctly. How to prune fruit trees in spring. For what purpose and with what should I lubricate the sections after trimming?

A good owner is always pleased with a young fruit-bearing garden, but the longevity and productivity of trees will depend on competent, timely care of the plants. Perhaps the most important point in the process of growth, as well as the formation of the crown of fruit trees, is pruning. Its essence is to stimulate the development and fruiting of the necessary branches and remove interfering, improperly growing, old, diseased branches. When proper pruning helps the plant distribute nutrition and strength evenly, you can hope for a bountiful, high-quality harvest.

Pruning, that is, complete or partial removal of branches, should be done to regulate the growth, development and fruiting of the plant. There are several types of pruning - formative, rejuvenating, pruning to reduce height, to reduce crown volume, and sanitary. In the first three to five years, formative pruning of the seedling is done.

When the crown is well-groomed, well-lit, and strong, then the onset of flowering and fruiting accelerates. You can make an old tree better, stimulate its growth, as well as the appearance of generative buds, increase productivity and activate growth processes with the help of anti-aging pruning. It should be carried out once every 3-4 years, when attenuation of apical growth is noticed. It is better to start improving the lighting of plants and increasing their productivity by reducing the height, as well as limiting the volume of their crown.

Sanitary pruning is a last resort for neglected fruit trees, when you have to remove broken and dried branches. There is no specific time when you need to do this type of pruning. The procedure for pruning plants can only be carried out at the right time, often late autumn - early spring. The weather will definitely make its own adjustments. It is important to remember that it is better to choose the plant's resting time. When the growing season of fruit trees ends and before the buds begin to swell.

Apple and pear trees should be pruned when they no longer have leaves. And fruit trees: plum, cherry plum, apricot, peach, cherry, sweet cherry and almond are best pruned the other way around, when foliage is present. At this time, there is less chance of infecting the plant with fungi and bacteria. For plums, this period is summer; the cut branches will have time to grow and also get stronger for the future harvest. It should be remembered that pruning fruit trees depends on the climatic conditions of your region. The times when each plant can be pruned for warm regions are highlighted in yellow; blue for cold regions, and green for general pruning times. The purpose of summer pruning of fruit trees is to thin out long young branches with fruits. It is better to shorten the branches now than they will break off and cause more damage to the tree.

Video “Correct pruning of fruit trees”

In winter, trees of winter-hardy crops can be pruned. It is, of course, better to choose the time of the thaw, since in severe frosts the wood will be fragile, the cuts will not be even, and the wounds will take a long time to heal. Even the cut points are left longer - about 5-15 cm - for protection; they will be removed later. If your seedlings are young, it is better to wait until spring comes. Stone fruit trees should not be pruned when there is dampness and moisture in the yard, as this can cause excessive gum production.

In summer, trees are very rarely pruned. Mainly due to the accumulation of assimilation products in plants and a decrease in leaf surface. When you remove what you think are unnecessary branches in the summer, you will weaken the tree and it will stop growing and developing. Deliberate weakening of the restoration process of trees is done only after the process of reducing the crown height. Definitely, in summer, old dried and frozen branches are better visible, and you can safely remove them.

It is in the summer that you can accurately determine the load of the current crop on the tree, so rejuvenating pruning of apricots, cherries and cherries is allowed. It is best to thin out pome-bearing fruit tree species in summer during a lean year.

What not to do

As already mentioned, trees cannot be pruned in severe frosts (down to −10°C); the tools do not cope well with fragile wood; the loosened tissues of the cuts shrink, and the wounds do not heal, which leads to damage to the buds and branches. Also, all sections should not be hermetically sealed with a special solution; such measures would be appropriate for sections larger than 2 cm in diameter. It should be remembered that large wounds on trees take about 2-3 years to heal.

You can only use a good sharp tool and a reliable ladder. If you worked with diseased plants, you should disinfect the tool with alcohol, otherwise you will infect healthy trees. If you planted a seedling in the fall, you do not need to prune it right away; it is better to wrap it and mulch it. Carry out pruning in the spring.

We remind you that pruning without harm to the plants must be done before the sap begins to flow. When pruning, do not leave sharp corners: you can avoid breaks and freezing. The correct angle would be 45 – 60°. Strive to replace poorly fruiting, old trees with young trees. Monitor the condition of the plants after pruning, use the experience gained independently in the future when working in your garden.

Video “How to prune fruit trees correctly”

If you still don’t know how to prune this crop, then the following video tutorial is especially for you.

Have you planted a garden, but don't know how to prune? Have you bought a cottage with old trees and want to rejuvenate them? Don’t know which fruit tree pruning scheme to use in the spring? Confused about terms and rules? If the answer to at least one question is yes, you have come to the right place. Especially for you, we have collected information from books on gardening, added recommendations from experienced gardeners, put everything in a readable form, and attached photos and video materials. Read and learn with us!

Any pruning is an injury to the tree. The type and quality of the tool determines how quickly the fruit crop will recover. The smoother the cut, the faster the plant will recover.

• a garden knife is the main tool;
• hacksaw - for cutting thick, old branches;
• pruner

Get used to using a garden knife

Although pruners cut branches with ease, they compress the wood, which increases the time for wounds to heal.

• rejuvenating;
• sanitary:
• formative.

Let's look at them in more detail during the article.

Crown formation scheme

The formation of the crown of fruit trees begins in the second year of life and lasts several years. Any pruning scheme will be difficult if the branches are not positioned correctly. In Russia, the two most common methods are: sparsely tiered and without tier.

Let's consider the first: it is simple, accessible to novice gardeners and suitable for all types of fruit trees.

The first, lower tier is formed in the nursery, this makes the work of a novice gardener easier. When planting a seedling, you need to cut off all branches by 1/3. The root system is damaged when digging, and such pruning promotes the harmonious development of the plant. How soon after planting should you start forming the crown?

In the first year, a young fruit tree adapts to new conditions, roots develop, and therefore growth is small. In the second year, shoot growth will also be insignificant. From the third year after planting, start forming the crown.

In a sparsely-tiered system, the crown of a fruit tree consists of a central trunk and 5-6 branches located at different levels. On the right side of the schematic drawing, the structure is visible: each branch of the next tier is located in the middle of the angle formed by the lower branches. See the distance between tiers on the left side of the image.

Anti-aging pruning: how to do it right

If the orchard is characterized by a predominance of old trees over 30 years old, a decrease in yield is observed. In this case, it is necessary, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Inspect the tree for dying branches.
2. At their base, select strong fatty shoots.
3. Step back 1-2 cm from the base of the fatty shoot and cut off (cut down) the drying branch.
4. Cover the cut area with garden varnish.

It is advisable to have not one, but several strong shoots near the pruning site: then the wound will heal faster. To prevent the shoots from growing too much, you need to tweezing.

that the process of rejuvenation of an old fruit tree should take place gradually.

If you remove all the dying branches at once, the tree may wither. Therefore, experts recommend extending rejuvenation over 4 years, performing it in parts. The formation of the crown in the future is the same as for a young tree.

Sanitary pruning of fruit trees - what you need to know

Sanitary pruning is carried out annually in the fall. Its purpose is to remove dried or diseased branches.

Rules for this type of pruning:

• remove shoots above the outer bud, skeletal branches - onto the ring;
• cut off diseased and dry branches with the healthy part;
• if the branch is located vertically, make an oblique cut;
• After completing pruning, lubricate all wounds with garden varnish or other putty.

In fact, sanitary pruning is partly rejuvenating, partly shaping. The technique and rules are the same.

When and how to prune an apple tree

The answer to the question of which month to prune an apple tree depends on its age. If the tree is young, prune in the spring, before the buds open. The time depends on the region - approximately early to mid-March. For an adult tree, in which the movement of sap and swelling of the buds occurs earlier, winter pruning is carried out at the end of February.

Rules to follow:

• make sure that the thickness of the branches that extend from the conductor is not more than 1/2 the diameter of the trunk;
• branches that are too thin are also unacceptable;
• the angle of departure is 40 0 ​​(it can be corrected, look at the picture);
• in the lower tier there are no more than 3-4 branches with a divergence angle of at least 90 0.

Conclusion

The following literature on pruning was used in this article:

• Kolesnikov E.V. ‘Advice to gardeners’ - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1972 - p.152;
• Videnov B.M., Kovachev G.T., Manov S.L. 700 tips for the amateur gardener - 1972.

Pruning crops in the garden in the spring is a serious undertaking. To perform the manipulations, you need to choose the right time, the appropriate tools, and then get to work. What are the features of proper pruning of garden plants, how to remove branches from different types of crops? We will talk about this in this article.

In order to carry out proper pruning of trees and shrubs in the spring, you should follow some rules. You will have to remove shoots that will not be useful in the future. In many fruit trees, the main harvest ripens on regrown branches. If the crown is too thick, unproductive and old branches are removed. The shoots growing downwards are also removed during spring pruning.

Because they receive the least amount of light and are considered unpromising. In the spring, it is also necessary to prune the branches that have managed to grow upward. Although their productivity is lower than those located horizontally, they are productive. Harvesting from such branches is more difficult. When pruning trees and shrubs, young shoots that are an obstacle to the growth and development of others should be removed. At the end of pruning, the cut area is lubricated with garden varnish. To remove small and large branches in the spring, it is recommended to use sharp pruning shears.

For thicker branches, a file or lopper is suitable, and for very large branches, a hand or chainsaw. The formation of fruit trees and shrubs is carried out during a period when the air temperature is consistently more than -4 degrees. After pruning diseased branches or shoots in the spring, do not forget to disinfect the tool with alcohol. The spring formation of the tree crown is carried out before the start of the sap flow period. After the pruning procedure, you need to check that the branches grow in a horizontal position.

How to treat fruit trees

Pruning fruit trees in spring depends on their species. Unnecessary branches are removed from apple trees so that the main trunk remains intact, in relation to which the remaining branches will grow at an obtuse angle. During the development of the crop, the upper part can change direction under the weight of the crop, provide shade, or weigh down the side shoots. If this happens, the top of the main trunk will have to be cut off. This way, the crown is illuminated, and new shoots will begin to grow vertically from the main trunk. Plum trees are similar in shape to shrubs because they do not have a main trunk.

When pruned, such trees form a cup-shaped crown. The central conductor is removed, and old branches and shoots are cut out every spring if they are located close to each other. It is necessary to shorten branches that are too long and hang down to the ground. The formation of cherries differs from other fruit trees. Its buds are located at the ends of the branches, so they cannot be shortened. If you cut the tip, the branch will dry out. The branches of the cherry tree are completely cut out for the purpose of thinning. Peach and apricot grow intensively; young fruit trees are advised to be pruned carefully. The tops of these tall crops are removed. It is also necessary to remove branches that are located low.

Video “Pruning an apple tree in spring”

Berry bushes

Shrubs that are pruned in the spring are treated the same way. The exception is grapes. Older branches are removed, since young shoots will produce more yield. Branches infected with dangerous diseases and attacked by pests are removed under the main trunk. The branches remaining after the work are thinned out. Berry crops are processed to form a bush with branches of different ages that will not interfere with each other’s normal growth.

As an example, let’s look at the scheme for forming a bush of a popular garden crop – black currant. A year after the first pruning of a young plant, a pair of basal shoots may grow from the roots. They are also called zero ones; new shoots appear on them every year. For a 2-3 year old seedling, no more than 4 zero branches should be left. To stimulate the appearance of a large number of branches at the basal shoots, the tops are also cut off. In weakly branching bushes, it is permissible to remove shoots up to half the entire length. For 4–5 years, the same procedure is carried out to remove zero branches and shorten them. Both diseased and weak branches are removed.

By the 5th year of the bush’s life, it will have 2–4 basal shoots from each year, and the process of crown formation will be considered complete. Old bushes must be thinned to remove unproductive branches.

They are easy to find - they have a brown tint, grow no more than 10 cm annually, and in the fruiting areas they look dry and dying. Pruning gooseberries is done in the same way as currants. Here it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of growth - the formation of zero shoots is more intense. When properly caring for gooseberry bushes, you will have to remove hanging branches more often than currants.

They are cut off at the root or heavily pruned into side shoots. You also need to prune raspberries, taking into account some of the characteristics of the crop. After planting, the shoots are completely cut down to ground level. This allows the formation of viable shoots, which is the key to a good harvest in the coming season. When the bushes bear fruit, all fruit-bearing shoots are removed at the root and annual shoots are thinned out. The density during thinning is 12–15 first-year shoots per linear meter. The distance is left at 25 cm. Viable shoots that have sufficient height are cut into 3 to 5 buds.

When performing work to remove branches from trees and shrubs, you should meet the generally accepted deadlines - you cannot perform manipulations with the beginning of the period of sap flow. At this time, the wounds received by the crops during the formation of the crown using sharp instruments will heal heavily and for a long time. The processing time for different types of garden crops is different, which makes it possible to easily manipulate each tree on the site.

Procedures should be carried out at temperatures close to 0 degrees. At the end of the work, do not forget to treat the cut area with garden varnish, a mixture of yellow clay with cow dung, or paint. Berry bushes that form buds on one-year-old shoots cannot be pruned at this time of year. It is recommended to carry out the treatment taking into account the age of the tree and its size.

Video “Pruning fruit trees”

How to properly prune trees so that they produce a good harvest? Do not know? Then don't miss the next tutorial outlined in the video below.

The best time for tree pruning- Late winter and early spring before new growth begins is a favorable period for pruning most garden plants including fruit trees, berry bushes and ornamental rose bushes. To help you trim trees correctly, we will give you some tips.

Successful pruning helps maintain plant health, strength and beauty, and in fruit and berry crops it increases productivity and improves the quality of the harvest. Whatever you cut, use only sharp, clean tools. Do not prune wet plants, make the cut below visible signs of disease and treat the cut area as quickly as possible.

Pruning FRUIT TREES

A few years ago our neighbors planted fruit trees. At first, they rejoiced at the large, juicy fruits that appeared on young trees every autumn. But as the trees aged, the fruits became smaller, they were no longer so beautiful and tasty. The neighbors decided that the weather and unsuitable varieties were to blame. In fact, the problem was that they never trimmed their trees.

Pruning helps keep trees in good condition and significantly increases yield. By cutting out some of the branches of a mature, fruit-bearing tree, you reduce the amount of fruit produced on it and provide better light within the crown. The remaining fruits grow better (and the yield from this tree per kg will also be greater) and have a more attractive appearance. Increased air circulation and sunlight penetrating the crown prevent the development of diseases.

Perform pruning in the spring, before the movement of sap in the plant begins, while the tree is still dormant, but the wood is not frozen.

In young trees, with the help of light pruning, a crown of one of three types is usually formed: tiered with a central conductor (leader), modified - leader and cup-shaped.

When the tree begins to bear fruit, you will need to do more heavy pruning, trimming and trimming branches. This measure will increase the yield of the tree and create a crown structure capable of supporting a larger harvest. Here are some pruning tips.

Perform pruning every year. Removing a few branches each year is less painful for your tree than heavy pruning every 2-3 years. As a rule, you can cut out from the crown a number of branches approximately equal to last year's growth (but no more than 1/3 of all branches of the tree), you may find it necessary to remove new branches, but, first of all, try to cut out the old ones.

Avoid heavy pruning of dwarf trees. Dwarf trees grow more slowly than regular trees, so their annual pruning does not need to be as heavy.

Prune branches correctly. Trim the branch diagonally above a bud located on the outside of the branch. Pruning at an angle ensures rapid drainage of water from the cut, and pruning above the bud located outside promotes the formation of a shoot that does not thicken the crown.

Cut out old shoots. In some varieties of apple, pear and plum trees, fruits are formed not on the largest branches, but on small branches extending from them. If the crown is very dense, cut out the oldest and least productive branches.

Maintain and support branch growth in a horizontal direction. Branches directed upwards give strong growth, but their yield is lower than that of horizontal ones. Downward-pointing and drooping branches are the least productive and the fruits on them receive less light. Keep branches growing horizontally by cutting out shoots that point straight up or shoots that grow downward.

Pruning apple and pear trees

Pruning your young apple and pear trees so that the tree retains the central trunk (conductor, main shoot) and the branches extend from it at a large angle.

As the tree ages, the guide may bend under the weight of the fruit and shade the branches below. If this happens to your tree, cut out the top of the main shoot. This pruning will improve the light within the crown and allow a few new branches to grow upward to replace the removed leader shoot. If necessary, prune the tops of side branches annually so that any part of the tree can be reached.

Plum

Plum trees have a bush-like shape, so it is almost impossible to form a tree with a leader shoot out of them. Don’t try to remake nature; form a bowl-shaped crown on plum trees.

Japanese-American hybrids have stronger growth than European plum varieties and should be pruned more heavily. As the tree ages, prune out branches that are too close together and remove a small portion of the old branches each year. Keep the top of the crown open to create good lighting conditions for the lower branches. Shorten branches that are too long and hang down to the ground.

Peach and apricot pruning

These fruit trees are characterized by such strong growth that in order to obtain an annual harvest of good quality fruit, they require heavy pruning of the crown. To obtain short trees that are easy to work with, it is recommended to cut out the top of the crown. Also remove branches that grow close to the ground. Do not over-fertilize stone fruit crops after pruning, otherwise they will quickly grow to replace the pruned branches. With excessive growth during the summer, the likelihood of damage to these trees during the winter increases. Some gardeners prefer to prune peaches when they bloom to prevent canker, which mainly spreads in cold weather.

Pruning cherry trees

Young cherry trees form a tiered crown with a central conductor. Then, as the plant ages, the leader shoot is cut out and a modified leader crown is obtained. Cherries are pruned in the same way as peaches, but not as heavily. Excessive pruning of cherry trees can cause frost damage to the trees and shorten the life of the cherry tree.

THREE TYPES OF CUT

1. Thinning.

Remove the entire branch by cutting it off where it branches off from a larger branch or trunk. Used infrequently because thinning does not stimulate regrowth and reduces the plant's mass without affecting its size. After thinning, the bush does not look so massive.

2. Non-selective pruning

Trim the branch at any point. This pruning stimulates the regrowth of top shoots from dormant buds under the pruning site. Non-selective pruning makes the plants bushier and bushier, but does not reduce the size of the bush.
3. Selective (selective) pruning.
Trim the branch to a bud or to a side branch. Typically, the diameter of the remaining side branch should be half the diameter of the shoot being removed. Branches with a diameter of 3 mm or less are cut to a bud. This method of pruning allows you to reduce the height of the bush while maintaining its natural shape. Some shrubs tolerate heavy selective pruning, others do not.

How to prune berry bushes correctly.

BERRY SHRUBS - HOW TO PRUNCE

Annual pruning of berry bushes helps keep the plants productive, healthy and in good shape. Removing several old branches allows the growth of young, productive shoots and creates better conditions for light to penetrate inside the bush (and this, in turn, due to improved photosynthesis leads to sweeter fruits) and air (reduces humidity, prevents the development of fungal diseases) . Don’t regret those flower buds that you remove along with the shoots: the berries grown on the bush will be larger and tastier!

Grapevine - how to prune correctly

Pruning of grapes should be done while the plants are dormant. If your area has cold winters, wait until the buds begin to swell in late spring or early spring; this way, you can make sure that the shoots you leave on the bush are alive. (The vine may drip sap, but this will not harm the plant.)

The grapevine is usually formed using a four-lash pruning system, leaving a trunk from which 4 horizontal annual shoots (vines) extend: 2 in each direction along a wire stretched at 2 levels.. An annual shoot is a vine that has grown over the past growing season, and only annual shoots produce fruitful branches. Annual shoots are smooth, reddish-brown, and can be easily distinguished from older shoots that have dark, flaky bark.

To ensure this year's harvest, select 4 vines that branch near the trunk and extend in opposite directions: 2 at the level of the upper trellis and 2 at the level of the lower one. Most fruits are produced on pencil-thin annual vines, where the distance between nodes is 15 cm.

Tie a ribbon around each vine you choose.

Then form rejuvenation shoots.

The buds on them will produce shoots, the best of which you will select for fruit vines next year and they will provide you with a grape harvest.

To form rejuvenation shoots, select 4 branches extending close to the trunk. 2 - at the top trellis, 2 - at the bottom.
In this case, the age of the branches does not matter, since each has buds at the base. Plant rejuvenation shoots, leaving branches with 2-3 buds on each branch.

Now proceed to the most “ruthless” stage of pruning: grit your teeth and remove all the shoots from the vine, leaving only the trunk, 4 annual vines that you have marked with tape, and 4 branches for rejuvenation shoots. After this, trim the remaining vines to a length of approximately 1.5 m - a little longer if last year's growth is very strong, and a little shorter if last year's growth is weak.

Pruning raspberries and blackberries

With the exception of remontant varieties, the shoots of these crops usually form leaves in their first growing season, and flowers and fruits in the second.

Therefore, the first stage of pruning raspberries and blackberries is to remove all fruit-bearing shoots, which will die off in the near future anyway. Remove old branches immediately after harvest - in the summer or next spring before new shoots appear.

Pruning of blackberry, blackberry and common raspberry continues throughout the growing season. These plants produce berries on lateral branches, the growth of which is stimulated by pinching the tops when they reach about 0.9 m in height. Strong varieties should be pinched at higher shoots; weak varieties should be pinched at a lower height. Perform pinching several times a season as new shoots reach a height of 0.9 m.

All other types of pruning on blackberries and raspberries are recommended to be done when the plant is at rest. Form the culture so that the shoots grow in bunches. Remove the weakest ones from the previous year by cutting them out at soil level.

It is advisable to shorten the stems of red and golden raspberries so that the fruits formed on them do not touch the ground. Trim the stems to 1.5m (or the height of your raspberry supports). For blackberries and blackberry raspberries, the side branches should be 30-60 cm long. For raspberries with creeping shoots, leave stems 2 m long and side branches 30-60 cm long. After trimming the stems of raspberries or blackberries, tie them to a support.

Remontant varieties of red and golden raspberries open up wider possibilities for you. If you are ready to give up the summer fruiting of the crop, then after harvesting in the fall, you can simply cut off all the shoots at soil level. New shoots that appear in the spring will produce berries by late summer.

Some tips for properly pruning trees to get more yield:

• To increase the raspberry yield, in addition to watering and fertilizing, we pinch the tops of the plants 2 times a year: in June-July, when they reach a height of 1-1.2 m, and in August-September at a height of 1.8-2 m. K In winter, the plant will stop growing, become stronger and withstand frost well. Next year, after harvesting, we cut out the dry branches. Young shoots that have grown and plucked remain, which in the spring turn into a lush bush. The yield increases by 2-3 times.
• When harvesting plums, cherries, etc. A simple device that will allow you to reach the very top berries can do a good job. Tie a piece of a wide pipe to the end of a light stick with wire, cover it at the bottom with a piece of gauze, and sharpen the upper edge in the form of teeth.
• Keep red and golden raspberry stems off the ground. Shorten and tie up the remaining shoots
• The system of pruning grapes into four vines may seem barbaric, but it allows you to produce large grapes
• Every year, remove the "tops" - upward-pointing shoots that grow in bunches around old cuts. These unproductive branches drain the tree's energy, shade the ripening fruit, and prevent sunlight from penetrating into the canopy.

10 “golden” rules for garden pruning

1. Trim trees regularly, but never do this work in temperatures below -8 C.
2. Use a secure ladder and a sharp, well-functioning tool.
3. Remove all dead and diseased branches, as well as dried out and diseased fruit.
4. Be sure to disinfect any tools you used to work with diseased plants with alcohol, otherwise you risk infecting healthy trees and bushes. Remember: small pruning provokes a small growth of new shoots, and strong, on the contrary, intensive.
5. Create and maintain the desired shape of the plant crown. When pruning branches growing in one direction, remove the weak ones first, orient the strong ones to occupy the space evenly.
6. Orient the branches so that they extend from the trunk at the correct angle (45-60°).
7. Limit vigorous upper canopy growth on apple, pear and stone fruit trees.
8. Remove old, weakly fruiting trees, replacing them with young ones.
9. Do not forget to regularly check the condition of the trunks and heal wounds.
10. Observe the tree’s reaction to pruning and use the experience gained in subsequent procedures.

Pruning garden trees - questions and answers

Many gardeners literally do not know which side to approach the tree from in order to shape it. Let's start with fundamental questions, the answers to which will help the gardener tune in and prepare for the upcoming pruning. This theoretical part must be remembered when approaching a tree with pruners.

1.How does pruning affect the growth and fruiting of a tree?

Shortening regulates the number of awakened buds and the strength of shoot growth. With strong shortening of annual branches, the length of the annual increment increases, but the total length of the increments on the branch decreases compared to a non-shortened branch. At the same time, the growth of shoots is delayed and there is a danger of them not ripening and freezing. Therefore, strong shortening is used in special cases - for example, when correcting the appearance of the crown. With weak shortening or without shortening, more buds are preserved, some of which, upon awakening, form shortened growths such as ringlets and spears.

Bending the branches moves the bud awakening zone to the base of the branch. Bending the branch towards a vertical position enhances growth, and towards a horizontal position – fruiting. With arcuate bending, top-type shoots appear at the border of the bend and closer to the base of the branch, and towards the apex of the bend fruiting, aging and drying intensify.

Interweaving, twisting, breaking and deforming the branches is carried out to weaken their growth, increase the awakening of the buds, and transform them into fruit formations. Such branches are short-lived and are used temporarily to obtain an early harvest.

Blinding of the buds is carried out in order to prevent the development of shoots in undesirable areas of the crown.

Pinching (pinching) is used to regulate the strength of shoot development, accelerate the end of its growth, lignification, and transform growth shoots into overgrowing shoots.

2. How does the tree react to pruning?

Pruning changes the growth of branches locally. Shortening one branch or cutting it into a ring does not enhance the growth processes of another branch, even one located nearby.

Shortening all branches of the crown leads to a decrease in the volume of the above-ground system of the tree, and a well-developed root system activates the growth processes of all branches. As a result, many dormant buds are awakened and tops are formed along the entire length of the branch in the volume of the entire crown. This method of pruning has a negative effect on the development of young trees and, on the contrary, a positive effect on mature trees, especially those whose shoot growth has decreased.

Why am I drawing your attention to this problem? This applies to the time we spend on all dacha work in general. In addition to the garden, there is also a vegetable garden - the main internal competitor in terms of labor costs. A quick and shortened spring forces us to switch our attention and throw all our energy into planting garden crops. And garden work is either carried out at an accelerated pace or postponed altogether. Therefore, using winter time for the main pruning of the garden is the optimal solution in this situation.

In fact, winter pruning is not much different from spring pruning.

But some important rules need to be known and understood. Firstly, winter pruning is not carried out at 100% of the crown volume. What is meant? No matter how warm the winter may be in general, no one can cancel the February frosts. Therefore, fine finishing pruning will still have to be done only in the spring. Otherwise, techniques such as “on the external kidney” are doomed to failure. Freshly cut ends of thin branches will inevitably freeze and will not live up to our hopes. As for the removal of large, including skeletal branches, this also has its own characteristics. A branch more than 20 mm thick in winter is cut not into a “ring”, but with an indentation of 5-10 cm. Many will be outraged by such an obvious violation of the classical pruning rules - knots have no right to life.

I want to reassure you right away: this is not the final phase of pruning, but only an intermediate stage. The reason for this temporary violation of the rules is as follows. We have all seen areas on trunks and thick branches that have become healed after the branches were removed, in the form of a kind of “navel.” They are formed as a result of a gradual “influx” of the bark ridge directly onto the place where the branch was cut. In turn, the cambium is responsible for the growth of bark. But in order for the cambium to fulfill its construction mission, it must be alive. If we remove the branch, as required by the rules, “on the ring”, the February cold will freeze this cut along with the cambium, the ion will remain open forever, regardless of size. Over time, radial cracks will appear through which, like through open doors, various pathogenic microorganisms can penetrate. First of all, these are spores of the tinder fungus. He can be called a kind of “invisible lumberjack”

since visual signs of its penetration into the body of the tree become visible only after fungal scales sprout on the trunks or branches. This means that the core of the branch has already been affected, the spore cycle of the tinder fungus has completed, and the takeover of your garden continues. These are the sad consequences that unscarred cuts can have for your trees.

But a margin of a few centimeters will not allow the cambium to be killed along the entire length of the left knot, and it will successfully overwinter. And as soon as the cold weather ends, the time will come for the second, final stage of pruning. Now, with a clear conscience, we can finish the work we started in winter. We carefully cut off the knots, and the sap flow that begins with the arrival of warmth will enable the cambium to successfully grow a bark ridge, which over time will completely “seal” this place.

About garden var

It is necessary to mention one more operation performed after pruning - treating the cuts with garden varnish. There are also several opinions regarding this procedure. Most often it is recommended to apply varnish immediately after pruning. I used to follow this rule too. But for several years now I have been doing this a few days after I cut the branches. Why? The fact is that a branch can be conventionally represented as a bundle of many microscopic sap-conducting channels.

When we cut a branch, we seem to open them. The most reliable way to clog them is to let the surface dry naturally. And these are not theoretical assumptions, but the result of practical observations. The higher the average daily temperature, the more the earth warms up and the more intense the sap flow. And in the case when the varnish is applied “richly”, in a thick layer, under the influence of heating it is deformed, rising slightly above the surface. Under this “hat” there is moisture, which has nowhere to evaporate, - ideal conditions for the growth of various spore crops.

For those who doubt it, I suggest you conduct a simple experiment at home. Take the beets, cut them in half and wrap the cut in film. Then hide it, and after a few days you will find mold, slime or something like that under the film. This does not happen on dry surfaces.

Therefore, I let the sections dry for several days, and after that I apply a thin layer of varnish. By the way, knots to be removed do not need to be processed. In winter, everything sleeps, and spores also cannot grow intensively on an open surface.

FEATURES OF PRUNING DRONE CROPS

Cherry pruning should be carried out taking into account the characteristics of fruiting. There are bush-like and tree-like cherries. Bush cherries differ from tree cherries not in the shape of the crown (in the form of a bush or tree), but in the fact that they bear fruit on last year’s growths. This growth has a growing apical bud, and all the lateral buds are flowering. After fruiting the following year, this growth becomes bare. So every year the length of the bare branch increases, and after

After 6-8 years of fruiting, a large number of long branches without overgrowing branches can be noted on the tree. Tree cherries have bouquet branches, and their crowns are not exposed to the same extent as those of bushy forms. According to the predominant type of fruiting, bush cherries include the varieties Vladimirskaya, Zagoryevskaya, Lyubskaya, and tree cherries - Zhukovskaya, Molodezhnaya, Bagryannaya, Volochaevskaya.

The ratio of flowering and vegetative (growth) buds depends on the vigor of shoot growth. In bushy varieties, on shoots up to 20 cm long, only flower buds and only apical growth buds are formed; with a length of 30-40 cm, lateral buds can also be growth buds, and with a length greater than 40 cm, growth buds are predominantly formed.

In tree-like varieties of cherries, on shoots longer than 30 cm, mainly growth buds are formed, from which bouquet branches and new shoots are formed next year. On short shoots only flower buds are formed.

The cherry crown develops well in the nursery and does not require special formation rules when planted in the garden. The trunk is formed at a height of 40 cm (lower than that of an apple tree) to place the main and overgrowing branches closer to the soil. Cherry branches and especially flower buds are less winter-hardy than apple trees, and if they are located closer to the ground, some of them are covered with snow and are preserved from freezing.

Before fruiting begins, minimal pruning is done. Only broken branches, competitors and vertical top-type branches are removed. Sharp forks on large branches are subordinate. In case of weak branching, the branches (last year's shoots) are shortened by 1/3 or half the length.

Fruiting trees of vigorous varieties reach a height of 4-5 m, and they are reduced according to the same principle as apple trees. The central conductor and vertically growing branches in the upper part of the crown are removed. After reduction, the height of the trees should be no more than 2.5-3 m. Long bare branches are removed from inside the crown.

Anti-aging pruning is carried out along the periphery of the crown. They are shortened to transfer to a strong lateral branch that has overgrowing branches with strong growths. In tree-like varieties, pruning can also be carried out on bouquet branches. In the lower part of the crown, sagging branches are cut off to be transferred to a side branch growing vertically, and in the upper part of the crown, vertically growing branches are cut off to be transferred to a horizontally located branch or directed downward.

PLUM

Based on the type of fruiting, plum varieties are divided into three groups. In the first group (Eastern Chinese, Ussuri, Canadian and American species), fruiting is formed like bushy cherries on annual growths. In the second group of varieties (European) spurs are formed, and fruiting occurs like tree cherries. The third group of varieties has a mixed type of fruiting. Due to this similarity in fruiting, the formation and pruning of crowns is carried out in the same way as for cherries, and you can also use the pruning elements recommended for apple trees.

The crown of a plum is less dense than that of a cherry, and its development is more reminiscent of an apple tree. Therefore, at an early age, the plum crown is formed like that of a cherry, and during the fruiting period, pruning is carried out according to the same principle as apple trees.

ADVANTAGES OF A SMALL CROWN

On stone fruit crops it is possible to form small-sized flat

crowns designed for apple and pear trees. Photo 1 shows the stages of formation of such a crown.

At fruiting age, pruning is reduced to removing vertical shoots and branches inside and at the top of the crown (photo 2). The cherry tree, formed in the form of a flat crown, at 30 years of age was 2.7 m high (photo H).

Cherry varieties, especially early ones, are largely damaged by birds. Small crowns can be covered with fine mesh, used in building renovations.

Varieties of stone fruit crops differ in the type of fruiting and not all are suitable for the formation of small-sized flat crowns. Only those varieties are suitable in which a large number of bouquet branches (cherry, black cherry) and spurs (plum) are formed on the branches of the second order of branching. All varieties of apricot and cherry plum have only one type of fruiting (on annual branches of the second order of branching), and a small-sized flat crown can be formed.

HOW TO INCREASE YIELDS USING GROWTH REGULATORS

Varieties of stone fruit crops differ in the degree of fruit set: self-fertile, partially self-fertile, self-sterile. There is experience in increasing fruit set by spraying with auxins during the flowering period.

Experiments over 2 years showed that not all varieties responded to the same degree to the treatment that was carried out at the beginning of flowering.

Compared to the control, when processing cherry varieties Molodezhnaya, the setting increased by 6.8%, Turgenevskaya - by 5.1%, Bagryannaya - by 7.4% in one year, and there was no effect in another. There was no effect on the varieties Bulatnikovskaya, Rastorguevskaya, Chereshnevidnaya. In the plum variety Egg blue, the setting increased by 18.8% in one year, in another there was no effect; in the cherry variety Fatezh, the setting increased by 24.9%.

The noted unstable efficiency of fruit set by variety and year is due, in our opinion, to the fact that not all flowers bloom at the same time and the flowering period lasts up to 10 days, and the treatment may not coincide with the time of the flower fertilization process. In our opinion, the treatment should be carried out three times: the first - at the beginning of flowering, when the first flowers appear, and again every 2 days.

Photo 1. Formation of a small-sized flat crown: a – beginning of formation, b – formed crown

Photo 2. Flat plum crown with annual removal of vertical shoots and branches inside and at the top of the crown: a - before pruning, b - after pruning

Photo 3. Flat crown of a cherry tree aged 30 years

Trimming trees: how to do it right

In early spring, trees in the garden begin to be pruned. Before you pick up the pruning shears, it is important to clearly understand why you are pruning a particular tree and how.

After landing

In the first years after planting, it is important to form a crown for the plant. During this period, remove competitors of the conductors of the skeletal branches and the central conductor, as well as branches extending from the trunk at an acute angle. To subordinate the skeletal branches to each other and in relation to the central conductor, shorten the continuation shoots by a third. If a very strong branch cannot be subdued by pruning the continuation shoot, cut it above the lateral branch in the desired direction and strength of growth.

Beginning of fruiting

After three or four high harvests, branch growth weakens, so pruning needs to be intensified. The goal is to limit the volume of the tree crown (in height and width) for better illumination. First, cut out diseased, broken, or intertwined branches. Then thin out the semi-skeletal branches so that the distance between them is about 30-40 cm.

Mature trees

During the period of full fruiting, growth in trees without systematic pruning subsides, and the quantity and quality of the harvest is greatly reduced. It is considered normal if the average length of annual shoots at this time is 30-40 cm. If growth weakens, anti-aging pruning will help - shorten skeletal and semi-skeletal branches. In this case, remove half of the skeletal branches and old fruit formations completely. The harvest in the year of pruning will decrease, but in the next season it will compensate for all your worries.

Summer residents ask me: is it possible not to prune the tree - after all, part of the harvest is lost? But without pruning we will not get quality fruits. After winter, I cut out dry, broken branches, as well as those growing inside the crown. I adhere to two main techniques: I shorten annual growth by a third (on young trees with a sparse crown and strong growth); I trim off excess perennial branches (from fruit-bearing trees). If the tree’s crown is very thick, I extend the pruning over 2-3 years, otherwise a lot of so-called “tops” (strong vertical shoots) will grow.

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FORMATION OF THE CROWN OF AN APPLE TREE - YEAR...

The main function of fruit trees in a garden plot is their fruiting. A rich harvest is possible only if they are pruned, which is carried out in autumn, winter, and more often in spring.

This procedure allows the crown to form rationally so that each shoot receives as much air and light as possible. In addition, pruning helps to sanitize trees, protecting them from various diseases that occur during active plant growth.

Required Tools

Many gardeners perceive pruning as one of the important elements of proper care of fruit trees. To carry out this process, special tools are required:

After purchasing a tool, you must keep it clean and ensure that it is always sharpened.

Only in this case there will be no torn cuts, into which a variety of infections and microorganisms can easily penetrate. After each pruning procedure, the tool must be cleaned and lubricated with a cloth soaked in machine oil.

When should you prune trees?

Many gardeners do not pay attention to the timing of when fruit trees should be pruned, which is completely wrong.

It is important not to harm the plants, so it is best to do this in the spring. Optimal period - end of February or beginning of March when severe frosts are no longer expected.

The first to start cutting are:

• apple tree;
• pear.

The remaining fruit trees and shrubs are subjected to this procedure at the end of the first month of spring or the beginning of the second. First of all, cut pome crops, and only after that - plants with stone fruits.

If the trees have not yet become stronger, then this must be done before the sap begins to flow, as this will subsequently weaken them and they will begin to hurt.

If necessary, at the beginning of June pruned when fully mature flowering trees and shrubs that will normally tolerate this procedure even after the sap circulation has ended.

How to carry out cutting technology correctly

Pruning of fruit crops is carried out in different ways. Let's look at the most basic ones.

Making a cut on the kidney. This method allows you to choose the direction of branch growth in the direction that the gardener needs. For these purposes, only growth-bearing one-year-old shoots are used, from which a bud growing in the desired direction is selected.

The pruning shears are positioned so that its cutting part is located near the part of the branch that is being left, and not near the end that is being cut off. Slice performed at an angle so that this kidney remains untouched. If the cut is too sharp, the bud will be deprived of the required amount of nutrients and will dry out.

Circular cut. In this case, the branch growing in the wrong direction is completely pruned. It not only takes away nutrition from fruiting shoots, but is also completely useless.

If the thickness of the branch being cut is small, it is best to use pruning shears. The cut is made along the outer edge of the rings, which form a bead on the bark at the place where the branches connect.

Cut to form a side branch. It is carried out when a transition of growth from one branch to another is required. In this case, unnecessary the branch is completely deleted. The resulting cut seems to continue the left branch, as a result of which the side one becomes the main one.

Types of spring pruning of fruit trees

When carrying out such a procedure, the gardener usually pursues very specific goals. Let's look at the most basic ones.

Regardless of what type of pruning was performed, it is necessary consider age and size fruit plants. With excessive pruning, young shoots begin to grow rapidly, which causes the crown to form too thick.

Specifics of spring pruning

Many gardeners prune trees at a time before the sap begins to flow. But it is best to carry it out at a time when the juice has not yet begun to move, but is already completely ready for it.

In this case, the wounds that the tree will receive as a result of such a procedure are will drag on very quickly, since the wood fabric is already ready for this.

If after trimming treat wounds using yellow clay and garden pitch mixed with cow dung, then about two weeks after the juice begins to flow, callus will grow at the cut site.

It is forbidden to trim fruit crops that will soon begin to bloom. This is especially true for plants in which flower buds appear only on last year’s shoots. Otherwise, not only the flowers, but the entire harvest will be lost.

Features of spring pruning of old trees

Old fruit trees, especially pear and apple trees, have a pronounced periodicity of fruiting and a significant reduction in the crown, which occurs due to the death of skeletal branches.

If you carry out light rejuvenation of such plants, these manifestations are significantly reduced, which ensures a good harvest in the future. In this case, you should know the rules for pruning old garden trees.

To restore the normal state of old plants that are in a very neglected state, it is necessary deep rejuvenation, which consists in trimming dried branches 1-2 meters from the top. It is not recommended to prune too much beyond two meters, because the tree may die.

This process should only be performed on fruiting branches or growth shoots to avoid leaving the pruned limbs completely bare.

If the branches begin to die, and fatty shoots appear in the lower parts, then pruning is carried out right up to the tops. The more neglected the tree, the more they are pruned. With the onset of March, the soil under the pruned plants should be well fertilized for the rapid growth of new shoots.

As soon as growth appears, all hemp formations should be finally cut out, and paint the cuts oil based.

Rejuvenation of perennial plants should be carried out gradually over many years. In this case, the upper branches and branches are pruned much more heavily than the lower ones.

Thus, spring pruning of plants in your garden plot is quite a painstaking and troublesome task. But thanks to this process trees are better prepared to the fruiting period.

If the branches are not trimmed, they will begin to break under the weight of the fruit. Therefore, pruning trees in the spring helps not only increase productivity, but also ensures their safety.