How to install a heating radiator in a private house. How heating batteries are installed - installation options and sequence. Important things to remember before you start installing radiators

Knowledge of the nuances of the competent conduct of the installation process of heating radiators will provide reliable, high-quality and durable heating premises.

When installing batteries yourself, it is important to follow the installation rules and norms of SNiP.

General rules for self-installation of batteries

Applicable to all batteries, regardless of type:

• necessarily produced calculation of the amount of coolant that the battery can hold;
• water in the heating system overlaps, then, using a pump, the pipes are blown;
• mandatory presence torque wrenches;

Attention! Tighten and fasten parts at your own discretion unacceptable! The circulating fluid is under pressure, so improper fastening of parts leads to unpleasant consequences.

• initially thought out and selected suitable connection option batteries;
• radiators are mounted at a certain angle to prevent the accumulation of air masses in them, otherwise they will have to be removed through an air vent;
• in private houses it is recommended to use pipes from metal-plastic, in apartments - from metal;
• the protective film from new heating devices is removed only after the installation is completed.

Do-it-yourself steps for installing a heating radiator in an apartment

Installation consists of the following steps.

Instrument preparation

You will need:

Choosing the right place

• the location of the heater is selected in the center of the window opening;

Important! The battery must cover at least 70% of the opening. The middle is marked, and from it to the right and left the lengths are laid down and marks are made for fastenings.

• gap from the floor not less than 8 cm and not more than 14 cm;
• to exclude the drop in the thermal power indicator, the battery must be located at a distance from the window sill about 11 cm;
• from the rear wall of the radiator to the wall at least 5 cm, such a distance will provide good heat convection.

More accurate indents are calculated with the perfect choice of a particular type of battery and the calculation of the number of sections.

Preparation for connection

Examine the walls for possible defects. If there gaps and cracks, they are laid with cement mortar. After drying, fix the foil insulation.

The variety of wall decoration options is quite extensive.

Selecting a connection scheme

Exists 3 connection options radiators for the heating system:

• bottom way, fastening is made at the bottom of the heating source, on its different sides;
• lateral (unilateral) connection, most often used with a vertical type of wiring with entry to one side of the battery;
• diagonal the connection implies the location of the supply pipe on top of the battery, and the return pipe on the opposite side from below.

You will also be interested in:

Process description

Subsequence:

Reference! At this stage, as an additional element, you can install thermostats to control the flow rate of the coolant.

• fixing the radiator brackets;
• accession outlet and supply pipes performed by threading, welding, pressing and crimping;
• control of the assembled system: water is supplied under low pressure to check for possible leaks and assembly defects.

How to properly install different types of radiators

In the installation of each type of battery has its own nuances.

Cast iron

The difference from the standard circuit is that for batteries of this type sections are initially formed using a radiator key.

Nipples are impregnated with drying oil and fixed by hand for 2 threads. In this case, a gasket must be used. Then the radiator keys are inserted into the nipple holes and twisted.

Important! The collection of sections must be carried out with an assistant, since simultaneous rotation of nipples may lead to distortion.

After crimping the battery, a layer of primer is applied to it and painted.

Aluminum

passes according to the standard scheme of one of three options connections.

The only caveat is that aluminum batteries are fixed both on the wall and on the floor. For the last option, use special clamping rings on the legs.

By adjusting the indentation of the radiator from the wall, floor and window sill, you can increase or decrease the level of heat transfer from the battery.

When installing aluminum heat sources refer to the attached instructions. If the recommendations indicate the use of a coolant, then it must be used exclusively.

Mounting the screen in front of the radiator will increase the degree of efficiency.

Such batteries are suitable for installation in private houses with autonomous heating.

Steel

An important point in connecting horizontal check batteries. Any deviation will reduce work efficiency.

In addition to wall brackets, floor stands for additional fixation.

Otherwise, standard connection schemes are used.

Bimetallic

These batteries are allowed building up or removing unnecessary sections. They are already painted. Sections are pulled together in stages from below and from above, without distortions.

Attention! In the place where the sealing gasket under the nipple is located, it is impossible to carry out stripping sandpaper or file.

As with the standard scheme, pre-treatment of the wall is required.

The need for proper installation of heating radiators arises both when replacing a single device, and when installing the entire system. It is the latter option that it is reasonable to consider in detail and in detail.

The heating season in our country lasts at least half a year, so a lot depends on the heat circulation system: not only the comfort of residential premises, but also human health, heating costs and the relevance of its repair. Consider the main schemes for supplying heat to apartments and residential buildings:

• Cast iron radiators. Massive classic appliances, "guests from the past". They are used on a residual basis and are no longer produced by modern industry. They are characterized by low heat transfer and an appearance that has to be decorated - with curtains, planks, etc. Which further reduces the circulation of warm air in the room;
• Aluminum radiators of sectional type. Lightweight, reliable and efficient devices for the heating system. Approximately 50% of the energy of the coolant comes from convection into the room (for cast-iron counterparts, this figure barely reaches 25%). Equipped with convenient pressure / flow regulators and attractive design;
• Steel sectional radiators are very similar in appearance to aluminum ones - but at the same time they are much more massive and somewhat more expensive in terms of price. The main advantage of the scheme of steel radiators lies in their high resistance to corrosion. If the water in the heating system is hard, contains acidic or alkaline impurities, it is reasonable to choose such batteries. The installation of steel heating radiators must take into account their significant weight;
• Bimetallic radiators - have the best performance and the highest cost (approximately 20% higher than aluminum sections) Withstand high pressure in the system, operate in the range from 20 to 40 atmospheres. All other varieties described above can function at a water pressure in the system of 15–25 atmospheres.

The standard service life of bimetallic radiators is up to 25 years, steel and aluminum - at least 20 years. In reality, they can last up to half a century. Of course, under the obvious condition - if the system is selected and connected correctly.

When replacing a single heater (for example, cast-iron sections are leaky), it is important to pay attention to the center distance, hole diameter and thread pitch. It is best to measure these parameters with a tape measure and calipers. There are many types of heating devices on the market and in stores, their design features differ from each other. You can purchase a device that looks like a failed battery - but it will not work when installed.

When the whole system changes, or the heating is installed again (for example, in a new house or apartment), a properly drawn up project is important:

• As pipes - direct and reverse - it is best to choose plastic with a metal layer used for hot water supply. In the specifications, the allowable water temperature must exceed the temperature in the system by at least 10 ˚C;
• The best places to install the selected heating radiators are the space under the windows or on one side of the long blank walls. This ensures better circulation of warm air in the apartment / house;
  
• The sectional device of the batteries allows you to vary their length, and therefore, the power of the heating system. Correct connection provides for the presence of from 6 (minimum) to 15 (maximum) sections for one radiator;
• The average standard for 1 square meter of a heated room is 0.7–1.1 sections made of aluminum, steel or bimetal. In rooms larger than 15–20 m 2, installation is recommended;
• In addition to the main pipes and the actual batteries, you should stock up on the necessary number of connecting fittings, corners, brackets and other fittings. To drill holes in ceilings and walls, you will need a puncher with a long drill and a special “iron” for welding PVC pipes.
  

Of course, all mounted batteries must be of the same company (and preferably from the same batch). Similar requirements apply to the piping system. How to install a heating radiator and connect it after installation, we will consider in more detail.

The website site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required number of sections.

Installation and connection of radiators - step by step instructions

The installation of new heating radiators should be divided into several stages:

How to install and connect heating radiators with your own hands - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Batteries First!

When wall-mounted heating radiators are installed, batteries are first of all installed. This is done on two (with more than 10 sections - on three) brackets, pre-hammered into the wall. Water inlets and outlets are protected by special plugs. It is important to accurately align each radiator both horizontally and relative to the wall. This will not only give the entire system an attractive design, but also increase the life of the heating circuit.

Brackets must withstand a large load. They are recessed into the wall by at least 10 cm. The play and oscillation of the brackets should be minimal (a few millimeters 20 cm from the wall).

Step 2: Well, and the pipes - only then

In some new houses for piping systems, special holes are provided in the floor slabs. If these holes are not available, they are punched with a puncher, with a double margin in diameter. For example, for two pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, a common hole of at least 50 mm is punched. Pipe cutting is performed by a grinder, with a small amount of work - with a hacksaw.

The location of pipeline schemes strictly vertically is a condition for their long and trouble-free service. First, the entire riser is welded with an iron, then it is attached to the wall with special clamps. We use a level and a perforator (as with the heating radiators themselves). Next, taps are made to the batteries themselves.

During the construction and repair of residential buildings, there is often a need to install or replace heating batteries. This is a simple matter, which does not have to be trusted by specialists, but can be done on your own.

Varieties of heating radiators for an apartment or a private house

The first thing to decide before installing a heating radiator in an apartment is the choice of a variety of this device.

The following types of heating batteries and radiators are widely represented on the modern market:

• cast iron;
• aluminum;
• bimetallic;
• steel;
• copper;
• plastic.

Each of these varieties has its own advantages and disadvantages that you need to know in order to make the right choice. For example, cast-iron batteries, which were widely used back in Soviet times, are distinguished by a long service life and undemanding to the quality of the coolant - the water in them can even be rusty or with a large amount of impurities. At the same time, due to the low thermal conductivity of cast iron, the fuel costs for heating such devices are quite high. Another disadvantage is the unaesthetic appearance of cast iron batteries, so they are not used so often at present.

Aluminum, steel, bimetal and copper radiators have excellent thermal conductivity and spectacular appearance. At the same time, they also have disadvantages. For example, the disadvantage of aluminum batteries is their high sensitivity to water purity and instability to high coolant pressure. Bimetallic devices are somewhat more enduring in this regard. Copper radiators are the most durable and most efficient in terms of heating, but at the same time the most expensive.

As for plastic radiators, this is the most economical option, they are light in weight and easy to install, but they should not be exposed to heat above 80 ° C.

Having studied the features of various types of batteries before installing a heating radiator with your own hands, you can make a choice in favor of one or another variety. A lot here may also depend on the interior of the premises, the budgetary possibilities of the owners of the dwelling and other factors.

Necessary elements for DIY installation

Further, before installing heating radiators in a private house or apartment, you should prepare all the parts, tools and materials necessary for installation. Find out when you will have the end of the heating season, then you can start work.

In addition to the heating battery itself, when installing heating radiators with your own hands, the installation of the following important elements is provided:

• Mayevsky crane. This is a small device mounted on the free upper outlet (collector) of the battery. Its function is to automatically remove air that may form in the system. The presence of such a device is mandatory when installing aluminum or bimetallic radiators, but if we are talking about installing radiators made of cast iron, then the Mayevsky crane is not placed on the battery - instead, a device for automatically removing air is mounted at a higher point in the system.
• Automatic air vent- can perform the same function as the Mayevsky crane. It is rarely used for installation on radiators. Manufactured in nickel-plated or brass body. It is often used to remove air to the outside in other parts of the heating system, as in the case described above with the installation of cast-iron batteries.
• Stub. Radiator batteries with side connection have four outlets, three of which are occupied by inlet and outlet pipelines and an automatic air bleed device. A plug is placed on the fourth outlet, which is usually painted with white enamel and matches the appearance of the heater well.
• Ball or shut-off valves. There are two of them: at the inlet and outlet of the radiator. The main function of such taps is that if a malfunction occurs in the radiator, it can be cut off from the rest of the heating system, which can continue to function further. Ball valves are cheaper in price, but less functional. It is preferable to use stopcocks when installing a heating battery with your own hands, since they additionally make it possible to regulate the flow of the coolant, and hence the degree of heating in the room.
• Hooks, brackets and plastic dowels. These are fasteners used to hang heating radiators and fasten them to walls. Details on how to properly hang a heating radiator and what points to consider in this case are described below.
• Linen winding or fum tape, as well as plumbing paste. These materials are needed to ensure the tightness of the connected sections.

Tools

A set of tools for installing radiators with your own hands is small and includes the following:

• drill and drills for it;
• level;
• tools for articulating pipes and fittings (their list depends on the type of pipe products).

Choosing a place for installing heating radiators

Speaking about how to properly install a heating radiator in an apartment, it should be noted that the space under the windows is traditionally considered the best place for installation. This arrangement creates a warm barrier on the way of cold air masses penetrating into the room from the side of the window.

It is desirable that the width of the heat radiator be at least three quarters of the width of the window opening - this will prevent the glass from sweating when heating the home.

The optimal distance between the heater and the floor is 8-12 centimeters, between the radiator and the window sill - 10-12 centimeters. The gap between the back surface of the battery and the wall should be 3-5 centimeters.

Hanging the radiator and fixing it to the wall

Next, you should figure out how to hang a heating radiator and how to fix it to the walls. By itself, this process is simple, but even before you hang the battery, you should make sure that the wall surface behind it is even.

Further on the wall, 10-12 centimeters below the window sill, a horizontal line is drawn, which serves as a location guide for the upper edge of the radiator. After that, in accordance with the intended position of the heating device, the installation of fasteners is carried out.

The location of the radiator must be strictly horizontal for heating systems with forced (pump) circulation of the coolant. If the system works by means of natural circulation, then the minimum slope is provided for the battery - approximately 1-1.5 °. The reason is simple - at the end of the heating season, the operation of the radiator stops and the water is drained. It is very important that the drain is complete and the battery subsequently remains dry.

If the slope exceeds the recommended value of 1-1.5 °, then the stagnation that occurs during operation will interfere with the normal operation of the device. All these nuances should be foreseen and taken into account before hanging a heating battery and equipping a heating system in a dwelling.

To install hooks, holes are drilled in the wall into which plastic dowels are mounted. Next, the hooks are screwed into them so as to provide a distance of 3-5 centimeters between the radiator and the wall. In a typical case, the heating device is suspended so that the hooks are located between the sections.

In the case of using brackets to fix the battery, the installation process is slightly different from the above. Before you hang a heating radiator, you should attach it to the wall and mark the places for fasteners. Further holes are drilled in these places. Plastic dowels for screws are mounted in them, through which the mounting brackets are screwed.

Another important point regarding how to hang radiators on the wall. Although lower fasteners are installed along with the upper ones, their role is rather auxiliary - they serve mainly for more reliable fixing of the radiator in a given position, including during installation. The level of their installation should be 1-1.5 centimeters below the lower collector. Most of the weight load of the radiator falls on the top fasteners.

Of course, the thickness and strength of the fasteners must be the greater, the heavier the heating device. For example, if the question is how to hang an aluminum radiator, you can get by with hooks that are not very thick. If a heavy cast-iron battery is suspended from the wall, the brackets and hooks should be much thicker and stronger.

Mounting the radiator to the floor - how to install it correctly

The wall structures of apartments are not always able to reliably withstand the load from the battery for a long time. If the heating device has a large mass, or the walls are lightweight, then additional floor fixation is necessary. It is carried out by means of legs, which are sometimes included with the device, or special brackets that are attached to the floor with nails or dowels.

Connection to pipelines

The final step when installing heating batteries in an apartment with your own hands is to connect to the piping system. It can be carried out in a lateral or lower way, depending on how it is provided by the manufacturer of the heating device.

In turn, the side connection of the radiator to the pipes can be carried out in several ways:

• one way way. It can be single-pipe (most often) or two-pipe. In addition to the pipes themselves, to connect them to the radiator, you will need two ball or shut-off valves, two tees and two drives. With a single-pipe connection method, it is mandatory to install a bypass that allows you to turn off the battery without stopping the system as a whole. Threaded connections must be sealed with fum tape or linen winding, on top of which sanitary paste is applied. If technically possible, the bypass can be connected to pipes by welding.
• Diagonal connection. This option is optimal, since it provides maximum heat transfer. On one side of the radiator, in its upper part, the coolant is supplied, and in the lower part on the opposite side, its return exit. It is also possible that the coolant is supplied from below and exits from above. The diagonal connection can also be one-pipe or two-pipe, and again, with a one-pipe method, a bypass must be installed.
• Saddle connection. This method is the most convenient to implement, and outwardly the most inconspicuous in a residential area. Both the supply and the return exit of the coolant are carried out at the bottom of the radiator, but from different sides. As in previous cases, the system can be single-pipe or two-pipe. With a single-pipe saddle connection, the installation of a bypass is preferable, but installation without it is also possible. In the absence of a bypass, if it becomes necessary to remove the radiator, a temporary pipe jumper is placed between the supply and return valves. See also: "".

Of course, the connection diagram and all other nuances regarding how to install a heating radiator in an apartment should be carefully thought out in advance, before the start of installation work. If everything was done correctly, then the result of such work is a comfortable temperature microclimate in the home, which allows you to survive the harsh and cold winter season without any problems.

Content:

In order to install heating batteries in an apartment yourself, you need to choose the right type of them, decide on the type of wiring and connection diagram, and then follow the rules.

Do-it-yourself heating radiator installation - Photo

Defects in the heating system of an apartment can occur for many reasons, which can not be eliminated without replacing the batteries. Then one of the most acceptable solutions would be to install heating radiators with your own hands. This is not an easy matter and requires strict adherence to technologies and rules, as well as accuracy and at least minimal skills in handling simple tools, such as a level, different types of keys, a drill, a screwdriver, etc. Equally important is the use of quality materials and knowledge of how to install the battery.

The main stages of self-installation of heating batteries

Stage 1. Preparatory. It includes quite a few actions, each of which is very important.

You should start with the theory, only then the replacement of heating radiators in the apartment will be successful, and the immediate elimination of the mistakes made will not be required.

Ways of wiring radiators and their connection diagrams

Methods for distributing heating pipes - Photo

You should start by studying battery wiring methods, and choose the most appropriate of the existing options:

Single pipe or series . It is the simplest in terms of its device, which is a definite plus for people who decide to do such work for the first time and do not really understand how to install a battery.

The coolant is sequentially supplied to all heating devices and returned through the same pipe. It has the following significant disadvantages:

• the final battery with such a scheme most often does not warm up enough;
• there is no possibility of control over the temperature regime of each radiator;
• to repair or replace the battery, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

ADVICE. Install a bypass, which will allow you to turn off only those radiators that are equipped with this device.

Two-pipe . This option is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but it’s real to deal with it with your own hands, you just need to make every effort and effort.

Here, a parallel connection is used, when the coolant is supplied to each radiator and returned already cooled down through another, called the return.

Among the advantages of this option: the ability to regulate the degree of heating of the battery using thermostats, the room warms up more evenly, and repairs are much easier to perform, since you can turn off any of the devices separately without involving the entire system in the process.

Collector . For apartments, it is not used and, moreover, is the most difficult to implement. Therefore, we will not dwell on it in detail.

battery connection diagrams in the apartment - Photo

Of no less importance connection diagram. They are selected taking into account the structural features of the apartment, the existing heating system and some other factors. Consider the features of each option:

• The most common connection type is unilateral lateral . It has good heat dissipation, but if multi-section radiators are used in the apartment, then insufficient heating of those sections that are located on the edge is possible. Correcting this shortcoming is not at all difficult - you need to install an extension cord for the water flow.
• lower. This method is advisable if the heating pipes pass under the baseboard or are built into the floor. Branch pipes for hot water supply and return are located at the very bottom of the battery and directed vertically downwards, which does not violate the aesthetic perception of the room. However, heat losses can reach very significant values ​​- up to 15%.
• Diagonal . This option is preferred if the radiators have 12 or more sections. Here, the pipe with the hot carrier is connected to the upper branch pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is connected to the lower one located on its reverse side. Heat losses do not exceed 5%. However, this figure will double if the connection points of the return and the main pipe are reversed.

Given the characteristics of your home, as well as your preferences, you can choose the most suitable type of connection. In case of serious doubts, you can seek the advice of professionals.

The choice of heating devices (radiators)

When installing heating radiators with your own hands, it is important to choose correctly which of the many available on the market today are suitable for specific conditions. Consider the most interesting and popular types:

Cast iron. The advantages of such familiar heating devices include: durability, good heat dissipation, unpretentiousness. However, in order to ensure good heating of the room, such batteries must have a fairly large number of sections, which are not so easy to assemble.

There are also features of fixing such batteries in houses built from different materials. For example, if the walls are built of wood, in addition to supporting fasteners, you will need a support stand.

Aluminum . They fit into the interiors of different styles and have good heat dissipation, low weight. Great for installing do-it-yourself heating radiators.

Steel batteries . These corrosion-resistant heating devices are characterized by good heat dissipation and a high level of performance. Other advantages include low price and ease of installation.

Bimetallic . Such batteries look very attractive, have high heat dissipation, low weight, do not require special maintenance.

Aluminum heating radiator - Photo

Choosing the most suitable type of radiators you need calculate the required number of sections. It is better to find out all the necessary values ​​\u200b\u200bfrom the specialists of the store where you plan to purchase these devices.

ADVICE. In accordance with the good old rules, one section is enough for a quality heating of 2 m2, if the ceiling height does not exceed 2.7 m. This calculation does not reflect the technical characteristics of modern types of radiators, as well as specific conditions that have changed significantly in recent years. Therefore, such a calculation can only be taken as a very approximate guideline.

Stage 2. Execution of documents, acquisition of the necessary parts and materials.

Heating in the apartment is part of a single centralized system, and in order to drain the coolant, it will be necessary to turn off the entire house. Coordination of such actions with state bodies is prerequisite. If you try to install heating batteries with your own hands, without having permission, you may be held administratively liable in the form of a fine.

ADVICE. It is advisable to issue permits in advance, since a decision on your application takes some time.

To properly and quickly install the batteries in the apartment you will need:

• brackets, which are selected according to the type of materials of the walls of the apartment. Their number is calculated based on the rule: at least one bracket for each meter of battery area.
• Shut-off valves. When installing heating radiators with your own hands, having no experience in performing such work, preference should be given to radiator-type products.
• Drives. They are used to connect batteries to the heating system without welding and plumbing. They must match the size of the battery and the threads of the pipes used.
• Adapters, couplings, Mayevsky cranes, tow, sealing tape etc.

Stage 3. Choosing a place and rules for installing batteries.

Do-it-yourself battery installation in the apartment - Photo

After the old batteries have been dismantled, you can proceed to marking the mounts for the new ones. Here it is very important to know how to install the battery so that the indoor climate is pleasant.

There is nothing complicated: radiators are installed in places where there is a significant temperature difference - near doors and windows.

There are a number of rules on how to properly install batteries, which must be strictly observed:

The slope of the eyeliner elements should be at least 0.005, but it is better if this figure is twice as large. It is most expedient to measure it along the length of the pipes, based on the calculation that each meter should be inclined by 0.5 cm towards the circulation of the coolant.
. The distances from the battery to other surfaces should be:
o to the floor - 6-10 cm;
o to the windowsill - 5-10 cm;
o to the wall - 3-5 cm.
. Strict observance of the horizontal and vertical when installing the heater, and not “by eye”, but with the help of a level.

ADVICE. Install a heat shield behind the radiator or cover the wall with a similar material. This will improve battery performance, improve the microclimate at no extra cost.

• The centers of the window opening and the battery must match. A slight displacement is possible - no more than 2 cm, which is not visually noticeable.
• Radiators in the same room should be placed at the same level, which is technologically advanced and looks aesthetically attractive.

Stage 4. Final. Installation of batteries and connection to the riser.

Before proceeding with the installation of radiators, you need to install brackets for which:

• Mark the points of their placement, which are selected, taking into account the installation rules;
• Holes are drilled in the wall, where dowels are installed and fasteners are screwed in, which are purchased or made independently. Connecting battery sections requires special tools and some skill, so it's wiser to have the job done in a store. It is quite possible to assemble the mounting kit yourself.

  To connect the battery to the heating system, a threaded drive is used, and then the joints are sealed with tow, and welding is also used.

  Installation of aluminum or bimetal heating radiators video
  

  Other options are also possible if metal-plastic or propylene pipes are installed when creating a heating system.

  Now you have an idea how to install a heating battery, and if you wish, you can easily do this work yourself.

Content

When arranging or reconstructing a heating system, it is often necessary to replace or install batteries. Installation of heating radiators can be carried out on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists, but only strictly observing the requirements of SNiP. When performing work, both theoretical knowledge and practical experience will be required, because even the slightest mistake can lead to problems during the operation of the heating system.

Radiator battery installation

Necessary Theory

Two types of heating systems are most widely used today:

• single-pipe;
• two-pipe.

A feature of single-pipe systems should be called the supply of coolant to the house from top to bottom. This scheme is used in most typical apartment buildings. The downside of the system is the inability to control the temperature in the home without installing additional equipment. With this method of heating, the water in the radiators on the upper floors will be significantly warmer than those below.

With two-pipe heating, the heated coolant is supplied through one pipe, and the water that has given up its heat circulates through the second (return pipe). Such a heating system is used in cottages and private houses. The advantage of two-pipe systems is the relative constancy of the temperature of the batteries and the ability to control the heating mode.

Radiator Installation Diagrams

The differences in installation schemes lie in the way they are connected to a private or centralized network.

The most common schemes are the following:

1. Side connection. Allows you to achieve the highest heat transfer.
   The supply pipe is connected to the branch pipe located at the top, and the return pipe is connected to the lower one. When connected the other way around (water supply from below), the power of the system is reduced.
2. Diagonal connection. Optimal for batteries of considerable length, characterized by minimal heat loss.
   In this case, uniform heating of the radiators occurs. The inlet pipe is connected on one side of the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe is connected on the reverse side of the branch pipe located below.
3. The lower connection ("Leningradka") is used for hidden pipe laying.

Installation of heating devices according to such a scheme, characterized by significant heat losses, is used when laying heating pipes in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lower ceiling.

What is needed for installation

To fix the heaters, you will need to purchase various materials and additional devices. Their kit is almost identical, but for cast iron batteries, for example, you will need larger diameter plugs, installing an air vent instead of a Mayevsky tap.

Installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries is absolutely the same.

When choosing a radiator, it should be taken into account that many manufacturers provide a guarantee for devices only when they are installed by organizations that have the appropriate license.

Necessary tools and materials

When installing radiators with your own hands, you will definitely need to use brackets or holders. Their number is determined depending on the size of the radiators:

• if you plan to put the device on no more than eight sections or up to 1.2 m long, two points are enough for secure fastening - above and below;
• every subsequent 5–6 sections or 50 cm of battery length require the addition of another pair of fasteners.

Also, to install batteries, you must purchase:

• linen winding or fum tape;
• drill with a set of drills;
• level;
• dowels;
• elements for connecting fittings and pipes.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

The Mayevsky crane is a device that is used at an unoccupied upper exit. Serves to remove accumulated air. Such a device must be installed on each heater when installing aluminum or bimetallic batteries. The cross section of the Mayevsky crane is much smaller than the cross section of the collector, therefore the connection is made by means of an adapter supplied in the kit.

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, automatic air vents, made in nickel-plated or brass, can also be installed on the battery. For standard batteries, devices in a white enameled case are not available.

Stub

The radiator has four outlets when connected to the side. Two of them are for supply and return, the third is occupied by a Mayevsky crane or an air vent, and the fourth must be closed with a plug. They are made from various materials suitable for any type of battery.

Shut-off and control valves

To properly install and connect the battery, you will also need a pair of shut-off or control valves installed at the inlet and outlet of each battery. Ordinary ball valves are required to quickly disconnect the device from the mains during dismantling. The system will continue to work.

The advantage of ball valves is their low cost, the disadvantage is the impossibility of regulating heat transfer.

The same functions, but with the ability to control the intensity of the flow of the coolant, are capable of performing control shut-off valves. Their cost differs upwards, but, at the same time, their aesthetic characteristics are higher. They can be angular and straight.

Also on the supply pipe behind the ball valve, you can place a thermostat - a small device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the radiator. However, if the battery does not heat well, thermostats cannot be installed, as they will reduce the already small flow. Heat transfer can be controlled by turning the knob to the required division (mechanical devices) or by pre-programming the radiator operation mode (electronic thermostats).

Rules and installation procedure

As a rule, a heater is installed under the window, since the rising heated air cuts off the cold coming from the opening. To prevent fogging of glasses, the width of the radiator must be selected at 70–75% of the width of the window.

Basic installation rules

The following rules for mounting heating radiators to indents are recommended by SNiP:

• The heating radiator is installed exactly in the middle of the window opening. Before installation, the width is divided into two, then the distances to the points of location of the fasteners are laid off on the right and left sides.
• The radiator should recede from the floor level to a height of 8-14 cm. A smaller interval will lead to difficulties in cleaning, and a larger one will lead to the formation of zones of unheated air.
• Radiators should be hung at a distance of 10–12 cm from the windowsill. If the device is placed closer, convection will worsen and heat transfer will decrease.
• The distance from the wall to the radiator should be about 3-5 cm, it is this size of the gap that can ensure unhindered heat distribution and normal convection. If too close to the walls, dust will accumulate on the back of the batteries, which is quite difficult to remove.

Taking into account the requirements of SNiP, it is possible to determine the optimal length of the battery and select a model that meets specific conditions.

The above rules are the same for all types of radiators. Individual manufacturers set their own standards, which must be followed. Therefore, before buying, it is necessary to study the requirements during installation, to make sure that they can be observed in specific conditions.

Work order

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating radiator requires careful attention to each stage of work, taking into account any detail. For hanging sections, experts recommend using three attachment points: two upper and one lower.

Any sectional battery is hung on the holders through the upper manifold. Thus, the fastener located at the top bears the main load, and the holder located below serves as a guide and fixing element.

The process of installing heating batteries is carried out in several stages:

1. Marking and installation of holders.
2. Installation on the battery of components.
   Modern heating systems require the mandatory installation of an automatic or manual air vent. The device is screwed into the adapter and placed on the upper manifold opposite the connection point of the supply pipe.
   Plugs must be installed on unoccupied collectors.
   If the diameters of the supply and return pipes differ with the cross section of the collectors, it is necessary to install the adapters supplied in the standard kit.
3. Installation of control and locking devices.
   Regardless of the accepted connection scheme, in any systems, at the battery input and output points, shut-off valves are mounted in the form of full-bore ball valves, which allow the battery to be dismantled without stopping the system in case of repair work or maintenance. The only condition is the presence of a bypass when installing the battery in apartments with a vertical type of wiring.
   

   According to the recommendations of experts, the installation of an automatic or manual thermostat is required as control devices. The installation standards for heating radiators do not classify these devices as mandatory, they are required to maintain a comfortable temperature for the owners in the room.

4. Mounting on brackets.
   Radiators are delivered in a protective film. Before installing a heating radiator, you should not free the surface from the film - it will protect against dirt and scratches, since the battery is usually installed at the beginning of repair work. If the radiator is installed instead of the old one, the film can be removed immediately after hanging.
5. Connecting the supply pipe and return.
   The connection depends on the scheme. The type of connection (crimp, threaded, welded or under the press) is selected based on the pipes and fittings used.
6. Pressure testing of the system or radiator.

Self-filling the system with coolant, the taps should be opened little by little. The rapid opening of the taps will lead to a water hammer that can disable the battery and destroy the fittings.

The subtleties of attaching to the wall

Each battery manufacturer provides an instruction manual that sets out the requirements and tips for installation. But one requirement is the same: the radiator should be mounted on a pre-aligned and cleaned wall.

Proper fastening of the brackets affects the efficiency of the heating system. Too much slope or skew in any direction can lead to incomplete heating of the battery, to eliminate which the device will have to be outweighed. Therefore, when preparing the surface and performing markings, the vertical and horizontal positions should be strictly observed. The battery must be hung exactly in relation to all planes.

It is allowed to make a rise of 1 cm from the side of the air vent installation, which will lead to the accumulation of air in this area and facilitate its removal. Slope in the opposite direction is not allowed.

When installing bimetallic radiators and batteries of other types with a small mass, hanging should be done on a pair of hooks located on top. If the length of the device is small, they should be placed between the last two sections. The location of the third bracket must be chosen in the middle from the bottom. Hooks after installation can be sealed with mortar.

When placing the brackets on their own, holes are drilled at the intended points, plugs made of wood or dowels are placed. The holders are fastened with self-tapping screws with a length of 35 mm and a diameter of at least 6 mm. Such requirements are standard, the rate for a particular battery model is indicated in the technical data sheet.

Panel radiators are installed a little differently. Such devices are supplied with special fasteners, the number of which depends on the size of the device.

To hang the heating radiator on its back surface there are special brackets. To install fasteners, you need to know the distance from the center of the battery to the brackets and transfer it in the form of marks to the wall. Further, applying fasteners, holes for dowels are outlined. The steps are simple: drilling, installing dowels, fixing the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

The considered rules for self-assembly allow you to connect batteries in the conditions of autonomous and centralized heating systems.

Before replacing or installing batteries, it should be borne in mind that work must be carried out after obtaining permission from the operating or management company - the heating system is considered common property. A significant change in the characteristics of the network leads to an imbalance in the system.

Installing radiators in an apartment has another feature. Vertical single-pipe wiring requires the installation of a bypass - a special jumper between the supply pipe and the return pipe. In combination with ball valves, the bypass allows you to turn off the battery in case of an accident or other urgent need. At the same time, the system continues to function, as the heated water passes through the bypass.

A bypass will also be required when installing a battery with a thermostat.

Conclusion on the topic

The process of installing heating batteries, if you follow the instructions in the article, should not raise additional questions. With proper preparation, adherence to the sequence of work and responsible attitude, the system will effectively last for several decades.