How to install sewer pipes in a private house. Correct installation of sewer pipes in a private house. Local sewerage treatment facilities for a private home

It is unthinkable to consider water supply to a residential property without installing a wastewater disposal system. Therefore, even before construction, you need to decide where and how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, and how to arrange the external pipeline.

We will tell you how to lay sewer pipes within the building and around the site. We will show you how to assemble the system and fasten its components. The article we propose provides installation rules and building codes, and describes the technology for performing internal wiring.

There can be no talk of construction without preliminary preparation of a wastewater drainage system. A carefully thought-out, drawn up scheme will allow rational use of capital investments.

In addition, thanks to the preliminary drawing up of the building's sewerage diagram, more opportunities open up for achieving the required efficiency of the system.

Example of an installation diagram: mk – sink; ks – riser; un – toilet (bidet); mind is the sink of the washbasin; vn - bath, 50 and 110 - diameters of pipelines of horizontal lines and riser lines; 1 – siphon with cleaning; 2 – bath siphon with overflow; 3 – square; 4 – tee; 5 – cross; 6 – adapter

The main criteria for drawing up a diagram are usually considered to be:

• the number of people on the territory of a residential property;
• proposed technology for processing (purification) of sewage waste;
• wiring of external wastewater disposal lines;
• layout of internal collection and drainage lines.

Having decided on the main points of construction, they calculate the number of system components, including the footage of sewer pipes, and draw up a sketch of the project.

An example of drawing up a sketch of a home sewer system for two adjacent units: 1 – sink; 2 – toilet; 3 – washbasin; 4 – bath; 5 – plumbing pipeline. The sketch also marks the distances between the components (a, b, c, d)

Pipe layout for a one-story house

Considering the availability of lightweight and a complete set of installation fittings on the market, it is quite affordable to build a sewerage system in a private house yourself. However, without consulting specialists and referring to established standards, it is not easy to build a high-quality sewer system.

Scheme of a sewer network with output to a septic tank: 1 – riser; general disposal of waste products; 3 – compensating air outlet; 4 – septic tank; 5 – treated wastewater; 6 – additional final filtration

The classic sewer scheme in general contains:

• sewer riser;
• pipes connecting the internal components of the system;
• external pipeline discharging general waste;
• receiver system.

According to existing standards for the layout of a one-story building, the areas closest to the external point of drainage are the plumbing fixtures of the kitchen and sanitary unit.

The wall separating these two rooms of the house is considered the installation site for the riser pipeline. The area of ​​the lower point of the riser pipe is diverted to the external main, and the upper point is diverted to the roof.

Part of the general wiring in a private house - an example of the practical implementation of building an internal horizontal network based on popular polypropylene pipes and other components

The most remote plumbing fixture in the utility area is connected to the riser by a pipeline of smaller diameter and taking into account a slope towards the riser of 1.5-2º. The formation rules are given in the article we recommend.

The laid line is used to connect other plumbing fixtures in the utility and technical area. The closest appliance to the riser is traditionally the toilet.

Thus, a gravity flow diagram of a one-story private building is created. However, not in every case of installation of a plumbing network it is possible to organize a gravity circuit. Then the problem is solved by introducing additional equipment into the circuit - a pump.

Pipeline in a 2-3-story building

The structure of a private house on two or three floors is characterized by the arrangement of several economic and technical zones. Moreover, the arrangement of such zones is provided for on each of the existing floors. Accordingly, in such conditions it seems like a somewhat more complicated schematic option compared to the first one - a one-story house.

Classic wiring for buildings with two or more floors: 1- centralized collector; 2 – inspection well; 3 – riser; 4, 5 – revisions; 6 – check valve; 7 – forced movement of wastewater at the basement level

Standards and rules for the construction of multi-storey buildings regulate the construction of premises of the same type in terms of functionality at a single vertical level. Therefore, the sewerage scheme in this case, for example, concerning toilet rooms, provides wiring for rooms located one above the other.

The riser pipe, intended for multi-storey buildings, is passed through all floors and brought to the roof level, taking into account an additional rise of 0.3 m or higher if the roof is not in use.

For the option with a used roof, this parameter is at least 1.5 m. For pitched roofs (a popular design for private houses), the riser outlet is made to a height of 0.5 m from the level of the roof ridge.

Also, the design of multi-storey buildings provides for the use of compensating elements at the points where the pipeline passes through the floors.

Accordingly, transitions through the ceilings are made waterproof and sound-absorbing, equipped with special fire-proof cuffs.

A practical example of securing polypropylene pipelines, including sewer system risers, using special clamps. As you can see, the fastening necessarily involves the use of rubber pads

The riser pipe is fixed directly to the wall using metal clamps with rubber linings. Guidelines for choosing sewer pipes for internal wiring, we recommend reading useful information.

The fastening is carried out without tight tightening - overhead, to ensure natural free movement of the pipe vertically. The lower part of the riser is led through an outlet to the external sewer line.

What you need to know about pipe laying?

Traditionally, drainage lines from plumbing fixtures such as sinks, bathtubs, and utility sinks are made using pipelines with a diameter of 50 mm. Toilet discharge channels require a larger pipe diameter - 110 mm.

At the present stage, polypropylene pipes are traditionally used for the construction of internal sewer lines. However, depending on the specific project and the load (throughput) capabilities of the sewer network, different diameters of linear pipelines and risers can be used.

The table below shows the possible options.

In any case, the diameter of the riser pipe for the sewerage system of a private house is always assumed to be equal to or greater than the largest floor drain in diameter

Gravity pipelines of horizontal lines with a diameter of 40-50 mm are installed, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.03 m per 1 m of length.

Gravity pipelines with a diameter of 85 and 110 mm are laid, observing a uniform slope norm of 0.02 mm per 1 m of length. The maximum permissible slope angle is not more than 0.15 mm for the entire length of a separately installed sewer section.

The use of plumbing crosses and tees is a convenient method for laying pipelines. In addition, thanks to these circuit elements, cross-country ability is created with a lower drag coefficient

Direct connections between the outlet lines and the riser are made using tees and crosses at angles of 45º or 60º. Executing the scheme in this way allows you to avoid clogging of pipelines during operation.

The scheme and apartment necessarily provide for the introduction of revisions (cleaning) at points in the line where there is a high risk of blockages.

For a circuit in a private house, the location of such circuit elements is shown in the table below:

Sewerage construction procedure

Let us briefly consider the main stages of constructing a sewer pipeline in a private home. Even if you do not decide to carry out the work on your own, you will be able to control the hired specialists.

Stage #1 – installation of the yard network

The creation of a sewer system begins with the stage of constructing an external (yard) network. If the length of the yard network to the existing one is more than 12 meters, an additional inspection well is installed. In this case, the minimum permissible distance from the wall of the house to the inspection well is 3 – 5 m.

You will be introduced to the methods of constructing the outer part of the pipeline and the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground, which we highly recommend reading.

In the laying of external sewer lines they are now mainly used, which are attractive due to their light weight, excellent performance characteristics and affordable price. When laying a route above the seasonal freezing level, they are used to protect the lines from the formation of ice jams.

Often, owners of private buildings have to deal with the lack of a centralized sewerage network. In this case, an autonomous system for collecting and filtering wastewater is installed (). However, the principle of the “external internal network” connection remains the same.

One of the simple and convenient solutions for private households is a sealed septic tank. True, its significant drawback lies in the rather high price, so not every home owner decides to pay for its purchase.

Stage #2 – construction of the house entry point

Next, you need to build an input unit directly in the structure of a private house (foundation, basement wall). The construction of the unit is carried out taking into account possible deformations, for example, due to subsidence of the structure.

The input unit and the external pipeline are reliably insulated.

Input device diagram (one of the possible): 1 – crumpled clay; 2 – cement-based mortar; 3 – resin strand; 4 – sleeve based on steel pipe

Stage #3 – installation of risers and bends

At the next stage, the installation of riser pipes of the internal network is carried out. It is recommended that these circuit components be assembled and pre-installed in assembled form without fastening or with partial fastening.

Full fastening is carried out after final assembly of the entire system. Having completed the installation of riser pipes, horizontal sewerage drain lines are built taking into account the required slopes.

The process of building horizontal internal drain lines involves laying sockets and fittings in the direction opposite the flow of wastewater.

Stage #4 - connecting plumbing

At the final stage, each device is connected to the corresponding outlet through a siphon pipe.

Additionally, it is worth noting: provided the building height is less than 10 meters, the internal sewer system can be built on the basis of free-flow pipes. At higher altitudes, pressure pipes are used.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Below is a video demonstration of the practice of laying out and laying a pipeline network, taking into account the construction of a private house. Full installation cycle, including testing the system using the simplest methods.

Knowing the procedure for arranging a system for draining wastewater from a house, you can try to build a sewer system yourself. True, at the stage of laying the pipeline from the outside, assistance will be required to bury the pipes in the ground.

If in doubt, it is better to contact a company with a good reputation and positive recommendations from your friends. Then the sewer system will be designed correctly and will serve your family for decades.

Please leave comments in the block below. Share useful information, photos and your own experience gained in the field of installation or repair of a sewer pipeline. Ask questions about controversial, interesting or unclear points.

The sewerage layout in a private house is designed without fail in the process of preparing general construction documentation. If you need to organize the collection of wastewater in a building that is already in use, you will have to order a separate project or do it yourself.

Laying out sewer pipes at the foundation stage

Made in accordance with all the rules, and providing the most optimal method of drainage for a private home. But homeowners are not always eager to turn to specialists for help, but prefer to resolve the issue on their own.

Where do you need to start if you want to make a sewer with your own hands? From the drawing, of course. But in order to perform it properly, it is necessary to select a suitable scheme that corresponds to real conditions and understand how the system should function.

What you need to know before designing

To design a system, you need to answer the following questions:

• Is it possible to connect to the city highway, will it only be necessary to collect sewage waste, or will it also be necessary to organize their cleaning?
• How much wastewater will be processed? This depends both on the number and seasonality of people living in the house, and on the availability and type of water points.

• You should find out the depth to which the soil freezes. This is necessary for proper deepening of the sewer outlet.
• Groundwater level is the mark at which the groundwater table is located (read how this is done in the article). If they are located high up, a sewer system can also be built on the plot to collect storm water.
• It is necessary to assess whether the topography of the site allows wastewater to drain by gravity. Otherwise, you will have to use it, and you need to immediately determine the place where it should be installed.

• When installing treatment facilities, you need to immediately decide on their type and consider the possibility of access for sewage disposal equipment (read how this is done in the article).
• It is necessary to accurately establish the type of soil in the area, according to which a decision is made either on the construction of filtration trenches or fields.
• It is required to draw a diagram indicating all types of plumbing equipment. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the option of laying the pipeline: inside the floor or superficially, in order to understand whether any dismantling work will have to be carried out.

Why do you need a diagram with internal network wiring? First of all, to correctly calculate the amount of materials needed and accurately determine their location in the system.

What is the best sewer system for a private house?

The sewerage system in a private house consists of indoor wiring and an external network. Inside, the system may include one or more vertical risers, to which pipes with a smaller diameter are adjacent. Through these pipes, which are necessarily located with a slope, wastewater moves by gravity from the flow points to the general drainage point.

What nuances to consider when laying pipes

Once in the riser, water falls down under the influence of gravity and enters an external pipeline of a larger diameter, connected either to the central main line or to a local storage or treatment facility.

When developing a diagram, you need to consider a few simple rules:

• The best wiring option for private property is when there is only one riser in the circuit. And this is only possible when the bathroom and kitchen are concentrated in one part of the house and are separated only by a partition. That is why in apartments these rooms are most often located nearby.
• There is a supply pipe to the riser, to which, as in the photo below, all plumbing fixtures are connected. The slope of pipes with a diameter of up to 80 mm should be about 2 cm per 1 m/p.
• The water drain points from the appliances should be located so that the toilet is closest to the riser - in this case, the place where it connects to the drain pipe will be at the lowest point. This is important because otherwise, drainage from the toilet could end up in the drain holes of other appliances.

Tip: It is advisable to install a grease trap on the pipe coming from the dishwasher and kitchen sink.

• If possible, unnecessary turns of the pipeline should be avoided, since it is in these places that blockages most often occur. But if you can’t do without them, the turn needs to be made as smooth as possible. So, to get a right angle, use either 3 elbows of 30 degrees or 2 of 45 degrees.

Knee at 45 degrees

Note: in order not to go around the house, the pipeline outlet from it should be located on the side where the autonomous treatment plant or central pipeline is located.

What materials are best to use

Today, not only in private construction, but also in high-rise buildings, for the assembly of sewer pipelines they use not heavy cast iron, but light, durable and inexpensive plastic, the joints of which are sealed with polymer sealant.

When connecting the drain hole of a sanitary fixture with a drain pipe, it is very important to install water seals, the role of which is played by U-shaped pipes. The water constantly present in their bend is an obstacle to the penetration of fetid odors from the sewer into the room.

Below are the pipe sections (in millimeters) for installation of distribution branches, depending on the type of sanitary equipment:

1. bath, sink and shower drain, if the pipe is common - 50;
2. if everything is taken separately – 40;
3. bidet - 30 or 40;
4. toilet – 100
5. kitchen sink - 30 or 40.

Note: these figures are relevant provided that the toilet is located 1 meter from the riser, and the remaining drain points are no further than 3 meters. If these distances are greater, the diameter of the pipes will have to be increased.

For the riser, which carries not only water from the kitchen, but also drains from the toilet, pipes are taken with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm. Any riser in . should have the same cross-section. If there is no toilet in the house, but only a shower and a kitchen sink, a pipe measuring 50 mm is quite enough to install a riser.

Why does the riser need ventilation?

In the internal sewage system, the riser is the central link that unites all branches of the distribution system. It is through it that all waste enters the street network, and accordingly, gases can accumulate in it. To drain them, ventilation is needed, which is carried out thanks to a fan pipe crowning the riser, usually led to the roof or outside the outer wall (details are described in the article).

Please note: it is important that there is at least four meters between the drain pipe and the nearest window or balcony.

When installing the riser, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• We have already mentioned that the distance from the toilet to the riser should be minimal, so the riser is always located in the toilet.
• In a vertical pipe, and preferably on each floor, it is necessary to install inspection hatches for cleaning.

• To soundproof the risers, they are sheathed with plasterboard and even covered with mineral wool, but there must still be access to the inspection hatch.
• A valve is installed at the top of the riser, through which air enters the system and prevents water from flowing back out.
• At the bottom it connects to a horizontal pipe, which should have either the same diameter or a little larger.

Note: in one-story houses, wiring can be done without a riser at all, while pipes from all points of water flow are connected to one common one, as shown in the photo below. This version of the device has a place to be, but here’s what happens: if you drain the water in the toilet and bathroom at the same time, it goes down with force, sucking in the water that is in the water seal. That is, a vacuum is created, since there is no air compensation, and when the water seal is empty, odors from the sewer penetrate into the room.

Street part of the system

The external part of the sewer begins from the place where the horizontal pipe, receiving waste from a vertical riser or individual branches, leaves the house. And here you have to think about how best to organize the disposal or collection of sewage waste.

Wastewater collection options

A variety of solutions are used for wastewater collection. What the options may be is clearly shown in the table:

Options in pictures	A comment
Connection to the city sewer	If your water supply is organized from a central main, then the easiest way is to connect the sewerage system to the city network. Your task will be to pay for the connection, install a manhole with a meter, and extend a pipeline to it from the house. If the distance exceeds 15 m, or there are drops and turns on the route, wells will also need to be installed at each of these points.
Cesspool under the house	a backlash closet is provided directly under the house when constructing a backlash closet. In this case, waste from the toilet is not flushed into the public sewer. For them, a cesspool is dug under the outer wall near which the toilet room is located. The remaining wastewater can be drained into a filter well with a permeable bottom.
Single chamber septic tank	is located four to six meters from the house, and all sewage waste is collected in it. Otherwise, it is no different from a cesspool - when filling, it also has to be pumped out with a sewage disposal machine, and, by the way, this has to be done more often. To make pumping easier and more complete, the bottom of the container, if it is rectangular, is made with a slope. For construction, a concrete monolith or rings, red brick and even car tires can be used.
Vertical settling tanks	In order not to create difficulties for the operation of the sewer truck, the depth of the septic tank should not exceed 3 meters. The volume is determined by calculation, but for a family of 3-4 people, or for a country house of non-permanent residence, 3 m3 is usually quite enough. In most cases, in modern cottage developments, one septic tank is installed, which is assembled from three or four wall rings plus a neck. If the family is larger, and accordingly the daily water consumption increases, there may be two or even three septic tanks. In this case, the solid contents of the wastewater remain in the first settling tank, and half-clarified water is poured into the next container.
	The last well is provided with a permeable bottom with drainage material wrapped in geotextile. The walls are also made permeable, using rings with perforations, brickwork with a gap, or ready-made plastic containers with slots. Rainwater from storm drains can be drained into the same well. Passing through the drainage layer, the wastewater enters the soil almost clean.
Overflow horizontal septic tank for local cleaning	Vertical septic tanks are usually installed for small volumes of wastewater. If there is a need to increase it - and, as has already been said, it is impossible to deepen it further than three meters, the structure can only be expanded horizontally. In this case, they either use rings of larger diameter (not 1, but 1.5 or 2 m), install a ready-made monolithic septic tank with several compartments, or build a rectangular container made of brick with a partition and overflow holes in it.
Bioseptic design	In general, there can be a lot of solutions. In particular, you can give preference to factory-made plastic septic tanks that operate on the principle of biological treatment. Depending on the required volume, they are also two- or three-chamber. They require almost no pumping (sediment is removed once a year), are easy to install, and the purified water can be used for technical purposes or for irrigation (read how to organize it in the article). If waste water is not used anywhere, then it is simply drained into the ground through the same drainage well mentioned above. Or, if the permeability of the soil in the area is low (for example, it is clayey), a filtration field can be installed instead of a well.

Basic requirements for the construction of septic tanks

The design and arrangement of engineering systems - and in particular, sewage systems, in single-family residential buildings is carried out in accordance with the requirements. We present the main ones below:

• The most important thing is to properly arrange the entry of the pipeline into the house: insulate it and prevent the accumulation of water in this place (described in the article). Wastewater never sits in the pipes themselves, and therefore does not freeze.
• It is best to arrange the input using a sleeve with a warm sealing cuff, as shown in the photo.

• The depth of the pipes depends on the location of the outlet, and it is interconnected with the height of the septic tank neck. When designing a system, you need to start from the design of the house’s foundation (read the article), which determines whether the pipe outlet will pass through it, or whether the pipe can be laid under its base.

• As a result, it should be so that the pipe approaching the septic tank at an angle can enter it no lower than 15 centimeters from the base of the neck.
• Its height usually does not exceed 90 cm, so the maximum depth of the pipe at the point of its entry into the septic tank will be 1.05 meters. Near the foundation, with a route length of 10-12 m, the elevation of the bottom of the pipe will be about 0.9 m.

• If or is a shallow tape, the pipe passes under it without any problems. For deeper installations in the foundation walls, it is necessary to lay a sleeve to carry out communications. Or, if this was not done, you have to drill them later.
• When installing a septic tank, it is necessary to maintain not only the distances from the house and water supply facilities, but also other buildings on your own and your neighbor’s property. For clarity, a diagram is given below.

• Pipelines must be laid on local soil of undisturbed density. If the trench has to be leveled, then, in order to avoid subsidence, the bedding must be carefully compacted.

It is always better when the project is drawn up by a professional. If you visit thematic forums and read reviews of people puzzled by serious sewage problems, you will understand that a stingy person can pay even more than twice.

If it is not possible to connect the house to the central sewer system, the only option is an autonomous sewer system in a private house - it is not too difficult to do it yourself, but if necessary, you can attract specialists and special equipment to perform some work. The cost of the project as a whole and the time for its implementation depend on individual characteristics.

Wastewater disposal is one of the determining issues when choosing an autonomous sewage system. The comfort of living largely depends on the correct choice and efficiency of the treatment or storage facility.

To make it easier to compare the possible options, we will briefly list the features, advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

DIY buildings

Sealed cesspool, on the one hand, is a classic, on the other, this classic is increasingly losing ground to more advanced and economical designs due to its main drawback - the need to periodically call a sewer truck to pump out the contents. The services of vacuum cleaners are not only a hassle, but also an inevitable expense. At the same time, during the construction phase, a cesspool is the cheapest option.

Self-built septic tanks depending on the design, they can significantly increase the time intervals between pumping out wastewater or allow you to do without sewage systems altogether, limiting yourself to cleaning the structure once a year or even less often. Undoubtedly, you will have to buy materials for building septic tanks yourself, but from an economic point of view there are certain advantages:

• You can use used materials,
• the cost of materials is lower than the finished structure,
• there is no need to spend money on work (with the rare exception of the necessary use of lifting equipment).

Materials for making tanks for self-construction can include:

• concrete rings,
• concrete (for poured construction),
• brick,
• large plastic containers (Eurocubes).

Ready solutions

Ready-made septic tanks can be energy-dependent or autonomous. Requiring and not requiring pumping.

There are two main categories of sewage disposal equipment available on the market.

1. Non-volatile factory septic tanks differ in their operational capabilities and, accordingly, in cost. The more efficiently a septic tank works (performance, degree of purification), the more it costs, however, the higher the level of comfort and the less effort required for maintenance.

2. Local treatment stations (LTP) are quite expensive, but more efficient structures with the ability to purify wastewater, removing up to 98-99% of impurities and obtaining water suitable for irrigation. Balanced systems and bioremediation methods used make VOCs safe and easy to use. The main disadvantage of VOCs is the high cost of equipment and the need for electricity consumption.

The most popular models of ready-made treatment structures are:

• Tank,
• Unilos,
• Tver,
• Topas.

It may be useful for you to set up a treatment plant yourself if you decide to choose this material.

And about the construction of a brick septic tank.

How to install a septic tank Tank, as well as about its structure, we described on this page

System design

An autonomous sewage system in a private house will work flawlessly only if during its construction all the nuances of operation are taken into account as much as possible, including:

• average daily volume of water consumption (the volume of the tank must be at least three daily norms),
• number of drain points,
• terrain (it is better to place a treatment or storage facility at the lowest point),
• groundwater level (the design of the tank and its operation must exclude the possibility of contamination),
• location of key objects on the site (there are sanitary standards that determine the minimum permissible distances to sources of drinking water, windows and doors of a residential building, fruit trees and vegetable gardens, highways, etc.).

When you design an autonomous sewer system with your own hands, the diagram includes:

• external communications and treatment facility,
• internal pipelines and equipment,
• ventilation system.

To ensure that the developed system fully complies with operating conditions and does not experience overloads, the following items are included in the project:

• number of residents (including a separately calculated number of possible seasonally visiting relatives in the house),
• the possible number of short-term guests visiting the house at the same time,
• number of water intake points and their type (equipping them with one or another equipment),
• layout of the site (optimally if a diagram is attached indicating the linear dimensions, area, location of the house, outbuildings, sources of drinking water).

Installation of sewer system

In order to understand how to make an autonomous sewer system in a private house, you can consider the entire complex of work, dividing it into separate blocks.

External communications

An external pipeline is a line from a residential building to a wastewater collection or treatment site. The ideal option would be a straight line from one point to another, made with the necessary slope, however, it is not always possible to lay a highway in this way.

In addition, it is possible to insert additional outlets into this main line (drains from a shower room, bathhouse, etc.). All bends and tappings pose a potential risk for blockages, since changes in flow speed can cause solids to become trapped on the pipe walls.

Due to this Certain rules must be followed:

• To avoid sudden changes in the direction of movement of drains, which can cause blockages, oblique crosses and tees, as well as bends with angles of 15, 30 and 45 degrees, are used for installation.
• All places of direction changes and insertions are supplemented with inspection wells.

Another important point is selection of pipes for the external system. It is possible to use products from:

• plastic,
• cast iron

When choosing, not only the cost, but also the characteristics of the pipes are taken into account.

• If drainage from a dishwasher and washing machine is introduced into the sewer, it is better not to use polymer materials that are sensitive to high temperatures, at least at the beginning of the line, where the drains have not yet cooled down.
• In areas laid under paths, sidewalks and, especially, under the road, only the strongest cast iron pipes are used for vehicles to enter the area.

There are other nuances that should be taken into account when deciding how to install an autonomous sewer system in a private house.

• Too high or too low a flow rate can cause blockages, so it is important to ensure that stable slope 2%(2 cm of level decrease for each meter of length).
• External communications are laid in trenches, the depth of which should be greater than the depth of soil freezing in a given region).
• Communications require mandatory thermal insulation if it is not possible to lay them below the soil freezing level. When laying in a non-freezing layer, you can do without additional protection
• For the longevity of the system, all pipes except plastic ones must also be protected from moisture.
• In addition to inspection wells in difficult places in the system, similar structures are installed along the entire length at the rate of 1 well per 10-15 meters of the main line.

Internal system

Do-it-yourself internal autonomous sewerage in a private house is made from polypropylene or PVC pipes. In this case, the temperature of the effluent and the susceptibility of the material must also be taken into account.

The diameter of the pipes is selected depending on the volume and type of waste at each point. For washbasins, outlets with a diameter of 50 mm are sufficient, and for toilets and general collectors - 110 mm. The amount of slope required for the flow of waste without delays and the formation of traffic jams depends on the diameter of the main: for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm it is 3% (3 cm for each meter of length), and for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm – 2% (2 cm).

To prevent backflow if a blockage occurs It is recommended to install check valves(for each branch separately or common to the collector pipeline). When installing internal sewer systems also water seals are used or, capable of preventing unpleasant odors from the sewer from entering the room.

The most important element of the sewer system is the connection point between its internal and external components, the so-called outlet from the house, which is the transition of the intra-house collector with the main line transporting wastewater to the septic tank.

• If the sewerage system is installed in an already built house, it is possible to install the outlet above the ground surface. In this case, high-quality thermal insulation will be required to prevent freezing.
• Release through the foundation below the soil freezing level reduces the risk and is preferable. The possibility of drilling a hole for laying a pipe after the construction of a building is determined individually. It is best to arrange such an exit at the construction stage.
• The exhaust pipe must pass through the wall with the installation of a sleeve, which protects the exhaust pipe from damage and deformation. As a rule, the sleeve is a piece of pipe with a larger diameter (10-15 cm), which allows the exhaust pipe to be laid in it and protrudes 10 cm beyond the foundation on both sides.
• When drilling a hole and installing a sleeve, it is important to take into account the need to slope the communications towards the septic tank. The position of the sleeve can determine the magnitude of this slope.

Ventilation of the sewer system

How the autonomous sewage system of a private house works largely depends on efficiency. The latter is designed to normalize the pressure in the pipelines, which changes when water is drained, and also to remove gases from the system. The presence of ventilation also allows you to extend the life of the system, eliminating the possibility.

In addition, the timely flow of air into the rarefaction zone that occurs when water is drained eliminates the possibility of its capture from siphons, which is usually accompanied by unpleasant sounds. The classic solution is to lead its free end to the roof.

During construction, certain requirements and features should be taken into account.

• The vent pipe should be located on the roof higher than the others (smoke pipe, house ventilation).
• The horizontal distance from the drain pipe to the nearest window or balcony must be at least 4 m.
• The optimal diameter of the fan pipe is 110 mm (the same as the diameter of the internal riser). On the one hand, it provides the necessary traction, on the other hand, with such a value, partial narrowing of the passage due to the formation of ice in frosty weather is not critical for the system.

The installation of an autonomous sewer system in a private house is increasingly supplemented, which can replace general ventilation or work together with it. Diaphragm or rod designs respond to changes in pressure. Depending on the model, the valves can operate only for inlet or for inlet and outlet of air. Valves can be installed on a common pipeline or on branches of individual plumbing structures. It is often advisable to install such a device only at the outlet of the washing machine, since it is this device that drains water with a certain pressure, thereby sharply changing the pressure in the pipeline.

Installing a sewer system in a private home with your own hands requires special care and responsibility. The degree of comfort during living and the ease of operation of the structures (the absence of constantly occurring blockages, freezing of communications, unpleasant odors and loud sounds in the room) depend on how accurately all the conditions and established rules are met.

Sewage systems for a country house are complex schemes for collecting, discharging and treating wastewater. As a rule, there are two types of sewage systems in a house.

• Household is the collection of wastewater from the toilet, bathroom, kitchen sink and water-consuming household appliances (dishwashers and washing machines).
• designed to collect rain and melt water. It prevents flooding of cellars and basements, damage to the foundation, excessive soil moisture and rotting of the roots of cultivated plants.

Since there are no oil and oil products in the storm drains of a private house, it is possible to combine storm and domestic sewers into one system, however, such a solution will require a larger volume of receiver (local treatment plant, septic tank or cesspool) and the associated high costs of equipment , therefore, the feasibility of such a combination is decided by each homeowner individually.

Composition of the sewer system

Any sewer system can be divided into three main parts:

• intra-house communications, representing the combination of wastewater from each point into a single collector,
• external (or external) pipelines connecting the point where the collector exits the house (in some cases, discharge pipes from the bathhouse or are cut into the pipeline) and the receiving device,
• actually receiver.

When setting up a wastewater receiver, this is the most important issue.

And for the installation of storm drains, an important element are the types of which there is information in a separate article.

You may also need 50 mm for risers for subsequent wiring.

The receiving device can be a storage facility or a purification facility.

• carries out partial soil filtration of wastewater, however, bacteria living in the soil are able to process inclusions only if the amount of wastewater does not exceed one cubic meter per day. As well as sealed models with bottom, requiring pumping out the contents using a sewer truck, this design is more suitable for a summer residence than for a home with permanent residence.
  
• Ready septic tanks well-known manufacturers are carefully designed and field-tested designs that require cleaning much less frequently than simpler devices. You can save money by building.
  
• Local wastewater treatment plants (WTP)- complex devices that are quite expensive and require connection to an electrical network, which at the same time are capable of removing and processing up to 98% of impurities from wastewater, forming water and sludge suitable for irrigation, which can be used as an organic, environmentally friendly fertilizer.
  

Selecting the location of the wastewater receiver and its parameters

Regardless of the type of receiver (processing device or storage device), it the volume must be at least three times the daily water consumption for everyone living in the house. Existing standards determine the average value per person - 200 liters, based on which the volume of the tank is calculated as 600 liters (200x3), multiplied by the number of people. When using treatment facilities with several tanks connected in series, their total volume is taken into account.

The installation location of the receiver is determined taking into account certain requirements.

• The structure is installed in the lowest place of the site, if the latter has complex terrain.
• Distances to important objects must comply with accepted standards:

- to the source of drinking water - up to 50 meters (depending on the type of receiving device, groundwater level),

- to the road - at least 5 m,

— to a reservoir or other open body of water – 30 m,

- to a residential building - 5 m.

Drawing up a diagram

It is best to take care of the sewerage diagram at the design stage of the house. At that time We try to place rooms with water drainage in one sector in such a way as to reduce the length of pipes. This makes it possible to purchase fewer pipes. In addition, the short length and fewer connections simplify the circuit and reduce the likelihood of operational problems.

In order for a do-it-yourself sewerage diagram in a private house to fully comply with the requirements, and to ensure that important points are not missed during its development, you should use a ready-made house plan or draw it on a sheet of graph paper.

• The first step in drawing up a diagram is to plot all the drain points on the plan. If there is more than one floor, a plan with the location of plumbing fixtures is drawn up floor by floor.
• After this, the location of the common riser is marked on the diagram. Since the toilet outlet diameter is usually 110 mm and the riser has similar parameters, the latter is most often located in the toilet. This allows one more condition to be met - the length of the outlet from the toilet to the collector should not be more than 1000 mm. It is recommended, if possible, to locate the drain points closer to the riser, the larger their outlet.
• The diagram shows the line of the collector pipeline to the point of exit from the house, which during the construction stage is installed in the foundation of the building and is equipped with a protective sleeve (a piece of pipe whose diameter is so much larger than the diameter of the collector to ensure its free entry and the presence of gaps).
• Sewage supply lines are drawn from each drain point to the collector. Branches located nearby (for example, from a bathtub and a washbasin) can be combined into one line. The exception is the drain line from the toilet, which under any conditions should not have tie-ins from other drain points.

It is important to remember that the sewerage system in a private house must be done with a certain slope (3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, 2% for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm).

• In addition to the pipelines for transporting wastewater, the installation location is indicated on the diagram.
• A diagram of the external sewerage system is similarly applied to the site plan, taking into account the location of buildings and trees (optimally communications should pass at a distance of at least 3 meters from them). For every 10-15 meters of the highway, as well as in places where additional lines turn and tie in, an inspection well is installed.

Features of choosing pipes and fittings

The main aspect of pipe selection is the type of material. Despite the strength of cast iron products, sewer systems for private homes are increasingly less often made from this material due to their heavy weight, which makes transportation and installation difficult. Preferred are modern polymer materials.

• Flexible and durable polypropylene tolerates high wastewater temperatures, making it ideal for indoor sewage systems. Typically these pipes are painted grey.
• Polyvinyl chloride is not so resistant to high temperatures, but has high strength. Orange pipes made of this material are easily visible in the ground; they are used for external sewerage, and gray ones for internal sewerage.

Installation of internal sewerage

It is recommended to start installing a sewer system with your own hands in a private house with the installation of internal sewerage and ventilation for it.

When you organize a sewer system with your own hands in a country house, the laying of pipes, including the riser, can be hidden or open. In the first case, communications are located in walls, niches or boxes. Inspection hatches must be installed to allow inspection and repair. The pipes are attached to the walls using special devices (hangers, clamps, etc.). During installation, the above-mentioned principles for choosing the parameters of system elements are observed (pipelines 110 mm for the manifold and toilet outlet, 50 mm for sinks, showers and bathtubs, oblique tees and crosses at joints), however, experts also recommend installing collectors of larger diameter (100- 110 mm) at the junctions of outlets (for example, sinks and bathtubs).

Pipes of different diameters are connected using adapters. For each drain point install water seals that prevent unpleasant odors from entering the room. Throughout all communications inside the house, special inspection tees are installed at each pipe turn.

Tip: To reduce the risk of blockages, it is recommended that when installing turns, use not one 90° fitting, but two 45° or three 30°.

For those for whom it is important to find the most complete answer to the question of how to install sewerage in a private house , information about ventilation device.

The installation of external sewer pipes is shown in the video.

Laying a sewer system is an important stage in the construction of a private house. If there is no public sewerage system, then in order to equip a completely autonomous drainage system, you need to lay a network that delivers wastewater from sanitary and household appliances to a collection well. Installing a sewer system for a private home is not a quick task, but if you do the work yourself, no serious difficulties should arise. The help of specialists may be required only in the most difficult sections of the pipeline.

The drainage system of a private house consists of internal and external sewerage and a collection well. In cottages with more than two floors with their own bathrooms, the sewer network is additionally equipped with a drain pipe.

Water supply and sewerage systems are usually designed and installed simultaneously, since the same plumbing and household equipment are connected to them.

The procedure for laying the sewer network:

• Prepare a pipeline project taking into account all the devices connected to it, a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter, and calculate the amount of building materials required.
• Purchase pipes, connecting elements and fittings.
• Cut the pipes into lengths in accordance with the project.
• Carry out internal wiring and bring the sewer pipe outside.
• Install the drain pipe.
• Lay external drainage.
• Build a collection well and connect a pipeline to it.

Internal wiring

The indoor sewage system is assembled in such a way that its lowest point is where the pipeline exits to the outside. In order not to make a mistake with the angle of inclination, you can start assembly from this point.

If you have a project, the connection order is not important, but you must strictly follow the rules for performing internal wiring:

• Each device and functional section of the pipeline requires a pipe of the appropriate diameter: for the riser and toilet - 11 cm, for showers, bathtubs, kitchen sink - 5 cm, for everything else 3.2 cm is enough, but if several devices are connected to one pipe at the same time , its diameter must be at least 7.5 cm.
• Since wastewater moves through the pipes by gravity, a pipeline slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter is required.
• The connection of the pipes must be sealed and not impede the free flow of liquid: the pipes are connected along the flow, and there should be no roughness or burrs at the junction.
• Right angles should be avoided, as this is where blockages most often form. To perform a turn, it is better to use several elbows with smaller angles.
• It is necessary to prevent backflow from the sewer and the penetration of unpleasant odors into the house. To do this, a siphon or an S-shaped bent pipe is installed on the pipe of each plumbing fixture, which acts as a water seal.
• If the house has several floors and each of them has plumbing, a common riser should be installed.
• Toilets are installed closer to other household and plumbing fixtures to the riser.
• Pipeline units cannot be installed in areas where walls or ceilings pass through.
• Holes for passing pipes through walls and ceilings are cut with a margin; it is advisable to insert special sleeves or sections of wider pipes into them.
• The connection points to the riser and pipeline turns are equipped with a tee with an inspection window closed with a plug. Through these windows, pipes will be cleaned in the future if they become clogged.
• The riser is located as close as possible to the place where the sewage system is discharged to the outside.