How to disassemble the LG split system. How to disassemble LG air conditioner. Basic rules for disassembling the lg air conditioner compressor. Removing Terminal Blocks

This household system is dismantled for subsequent repairs or when moving; many users solve the problem simply - call the technicians from the service center. A thrifty owner who has the skills and desire can save money and do everything himself, and we will tell you how to remove the air conditioner correctly, while avoiding mistakes and negative nuances.

Any modern split system, which includes a household air conditioner, consists of blocks for indoor and outdoor locations. They are connected by two lines through which the refrigerant moves. Circulates through a tube of smaller diameter freon in liquid state from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit, the same thing runs through a thicker copper tube in the opposite direction, but in a gaseous state.

This is where problems lie that can ruin everything you do when trying to remove the air conditioner yourself.

1. As a result of improper shutdown of main pipelines, partial or complete loss of freon.
2. Air containing moisture can get into the tubes and heat exchanger, which can cause damage when the air conditioner operates in a new place - incompressible moisture enters the compressor and disables it.
3. If small particles get into copper tubes when they are pulled through a wall or during improper transportation, the system will quickly break down.
4. Particular attention should be paid to the threaded bends soldered to the tubes; if they are damaged, very expensive repairs will be required.
5. Incorrectly disconnected wires. If you do not put special marks on the terminals, it may lead to incorrect connection at the new location.
6. Cutting it too short drainage tube, which discharges condensate outside the outdoor unit, you doom yourself to its premature complete replacement.
7. When transporting a product to a new location, there is a risk of losing small fasteners and parts if they are not securely fastened after disassembly.

All of the above cases lead to very expensive repairs of the entire system, so before you start dismantling the air conditioner yourself, read the instructions.

Preparation

Before dismantling the split system with your own hands, you need to prepare a tool, not a simple one from your home arsenal, but a purely professional one, as shown in the photo:

Many users do not take seriously the advice of professional craftsmen on how to properly dismantle any split systems. As a result, the shutdown is carried out with numerous violations: they dismantle the product without pumping freon into the air conditioner, and it leaks, which will not be as easy to replenish as many people think.

Refilling the entire system with refrigerant will result in serious financial costs:

• first, the master will check the integrity of all pipelines - 600 rubles;
• refilling an air conditioner with a power of up to 4.5 kW - up to 3 thousand rubles;
• the same actions with equipment power up to 7 kW - up to 3.5 thousand rubles.

At the bare minimum for household air conditioners, this operation will cost you at least 4 thousand rubles, depending on the refrigerant used.

Freon release

There are three ways to dismantle the air conditioner yourself:

• disassembly with freon release;
• keep the gas inside the air conditioner approximately or “by eye”;
• completely save freon with the help of professional equipment using a special technique.

The third option gives the best effect without any losses, but many users use all methods. Experts advise completely preserving the refrigerant so that there are no problems when installing dismantled equipment in a new location.

To properly dismantle the air conditioner, you need to know the design of the split system, which consists of a closed circuit filled with freon. The main components are a compressor, an evaporator with a condenser and a system of copper pipes that connects the entire structure and ensures the supply and removal of refrigerant.

This is what the schematic diagram of a modern air conditioner or any split system looks like:

To turn off the air conditioner yourself without losing freon, you need to pump it into the condenser; to do this, when the equipment is operating in cooling mode, you should close the valve between the product and the thin-diameter tube. When all the refrigerant is pumped into the condenser within a minute - that’s exactly how long it will take to completely pump gas into the condenser, you need to shut off thick tube valve, turning off the freon supply, and “close” it in an improvised trap.

Dismantling

Before dismantling the external unit, you must disconnect copper tubes, but in practice they are not reused, since their extension is strictly prohibited. It is necessary to cut them at a distance of about 200 mm from the fitting and caulk the sections for complete sealing.

Attention! When storing the product disassembled for a long time, the tubes are filled with nitrogen and ensure tightness to prevent oxidation of the inner surface.

Outdoor unit

The instructions say: after working with copper tubes, you must remove thermal insulation As a rule, all masters work together, one indoors and the other outside. Thus, dismantling is carried out faster: the partner has turned off the power and now you can disconnect the wires at the place of their connection, first marking the terminals.

The tubes are straightened manually so that they pass through the holes in the wall without interference, and the end of the cable is screwed to them to remove it into the room.

After this, we unscrew the nuts that hold the outdoor unit on special brackets, together with an assistant, carefully remove the unit and move it inside the apartment. Lastly, the brackets are removed from the wall of the building.

Important! During transportation and storage, the dismantled outdoor unit is positioned only vertically to prevent mechanical damage from shaking - it is inserted into a box with foam plastic underneath.

Compressor

Sometimes only the outdoor unit is dismantled, for example, if only the compressor needs to be repaired, and the indoor unit of the air conditioner remains in place. During similar operations, the internal block of the split system is also not touched.

The main condition is to properly dismantle the compressor:

• remove the cover from the outdoor unit;
• then disconnect suction and discharge tubes;
• all electrical wiring is turned off;
• the fasteners of the condenser and fan are unscrewed;
• remove the capacitor from the block housing;
• access to the compressor is open - remove the fastenings and dismantle it.

With such actions, the risk of causing damage to pipelines is eliminated and there is a real opportunity to repair other elements located in the casing of the outdoor unit, if necessary.

Indoor unit

Dismantling the internal unit of an air conditioner has its own very specific nuances, without knowledge of which all your efforts will be useless, and in some cases careless actions can lead to breakage of rather delicate fasteners, for example, evaporator latches or clamps holding the unit on the guides.

To understand how to remove an air conditioner from a wall, you need to study the instruction manual, which contains the section you are interested in. Many users will not be able to do this operation and will have to turn to professionals.

Remove the indoor unit the air conditioning system will only work after removing the front panel, then you also need to disconnect all the electrical wiring, freon inlet and outlet pipes. You need to disassemble the tangle of wires carefully and without fuss. But this is not all the testing - manufacturers have reliably blocked access to evaporator latches ensure that dismantling is carried out only by specially trained people.

Access is closed by a lid, the latches of which are pressed quite tightly to the wall - you can get to them using two screwdrivers with a very thin tip. Your partner must hold the entire block during this labor-intensive process.

After removing the evaporator, you can unscrew mounting plate, which blocks access to the electrical wires and freon pipes supplying the product, hidden in a special gutter inside the wall. The last thing to unscrew is the decorative box, which runs along the outer wall all the way to the outer block.

The disconnected wires are carefully twisted and placed in a separate box for transportation. To help home craftsmen, there is a video on how to dismantle an air conditioner on your own, without turning to specialists:

Dismantling in winter

Many users are interested in the question: how to remove the split system in winter, when due to low temperatures it is impossible to pump refrigerant into the condenser. The oil in the compressor will thicken, and all attempts to turn it on can end very badly.

If you have a special model equipped with a kit that includes heating of the compressor crankcase and the entire drainage system line, as well as a unit that slows down the rotation of the fan, then your intentions will be crowned with success. If it is not available, you can use a special refrigerant collection station, which is connected in the same way as a pressure manifold.

A few more practical tips: you can start dismantling yourself only when you are completely confident in your own capabilities and have a qualified partner. Also, having a special tool makes the job much easier.

There are situations when it is necessary to dismantle the air conditioner. The reasons can be completely different - the old split system does not work, you may be moving, or you are planning to renovate the room. This problem can be solved by calling a technician from the service center. But if you want to save money, have some skills and desire, then you can cope with this task yourself. We will tell you below in our article how to remove the air conditioner from the wall during renovation, while avoiding negative nuances and mistakes, and how to hang wallpaper underneath it.

How to wallpaper under an air conditioner?

This is quite a difficult task. There are people for whom “it’ll do just the same,” and there are others who want to do everything perfectly.

There are two ways to hang wallpaper:

• Carefully apply new wallpaper, sliding a couple of centimeters under the device. This method will not bring the desired result, since it will be noticeable to the naked eye that the wallpaper is not completely glued under the air conditioner.
• Remove the air conditioner for a while and stick the wallpaper perfectly.

How to remove an air conditioner from a wall during repairs so that you are pleased with the end result - we will consider in detail below.

Precautionary measures

Before you figure out how to remove the air conditioner from the wall with your own hands, you need to understand how it works in order to avoid unpleasant consequences. This device consists of 2 blocks - external and internal. Two lines connect them, and the refrigerant moves through them. Freon in a liquid state circulates through a tube of smaller diameter from the indoor to the outdoor unit, and it runs in the opposite direction, but in a gaseous state through a thicker copper tube.

This part contains problems that can ruin all your actions when trying to remove the air conditioner with your own hands:

• Complete or partial loss of freon can occur if you disconnect the main pipelines incorrectly.
• Air containing moisture may enter the heat exchanger and tubes, which may cause damage to the air conditioner after it is reconnected. Incompressible moisture enters the compressor and damages the device.
• The entry of small particles into copper pipes during their pulling very quickly leads to system failure.
• Handle the threaded fittings that are soldered to the tubes very carefully. If they are damaged, expensive repairs will be required.
• Be sure to mark the terminals so that you can easily reconnect the air conditioner without mixing up the wires.
• Do not cut the drainage pipe too short, through which condensate is discharged outside the outdoor unit.

Important! Read the instructions carefully before starting to dismantle the air conditioner so that it does not need to be repaired in the future.

Preparatory stage

It is necessary to prepare a number of tools, without which it is impossible to cope with the task, before answering the question of how to remove the air conditioner from the wall during a DIY repair.

Required tools:

• Pipe cutter
• Gauge manifold.
• Hex socket wrenches.
• Open-end wrenches.
• Side cutters.
• Adjustable wrenches.
• Drill.
• Phillips screwdriver.
• Construction knife.

There are times when you need to acquire safety equipment.

Important! When removing the device, two people must be involved in order to carry out the work without risk to life and health.

Freon release

There are three options for dismantling the air conditioner yourself:

• Disassembly with freon release.
• Preservation of gas inside the device.
• Using a special technique, with the help of professional equipment, save freon completely.

All methods are used, but the third gives the best effect without any losses.

To remove the air conditioner from the wall with your own hands correctly, you need to study the design of the split system, which consists of a closed circuit filled with freon. It consists of the following components - a compressor, a system of copper tubes and an evaporator with a condenser, which connects the entire system and ensures the selection and supply of refrigerant.

To turn off the air conditioner without losing freon, you need to pump it into the condenser yourself, for this:

1. Close the valve between the device and the thin-diameter tube while the equipment is operating in cooling mode.
2. After a minute, when all the refrigerant has been pumped into the condenser, close the valve on the thick tube. With this action you will turn off the freon supply and “close” it in the trap.

Dismantling with video

To dismantle the external unit, you need to disconnect the copper tubes. To do this, they need to be cut at a distance of about 20 cm from the fitting, and then the sections must be caulked to ensure complete sealing.

Important! Copper tubing cannot be reused because extension is strictly prohibited.

Outdoor unit

Remove thermal insulation after working with copper pipes. It is best when two people work: one outside the room, and the second inside. Removing the device in this way is faster:

• One turns off the power, and the second disconnects the wires, having previously marked the terminals at the place where they are connected.

Important! You have to manually straighten the tubes so that they fit through the holes in the wall without any problems.

• The end of the cable is also screwed to them, which is dragged inside the room.
• Then the nuts that hold the outdoor unit on special brackets are unscrewed.
• Then the two of you remove the block and move it inside the room.

Important! The outdoor unit that you have removed must be stored exclusively vertically.

Indoor unit

How to disassemble the indoor unit so that freon does not leak out? Dismantling the internal unit of the device has some nuances, without knowledge of which you will not be able to do all the work correctly, which can lead to breakage of delicate fasteners.

Here's how to remove the indoor air conditioner unit from the wall for wallpapering correctly:

• Remove the housing cover using the indicators located on the bottom of the unit.

Important! Each manufacturer installs the lid differently. Read the instructions carefully to understand how to do it correctly.

• Disconnect the electrical cable by unscrewing it from the terminals and carefully pulling it out of the system.
• Disconnect the pipe and place a container first, because water may leak out of it.
• Remove the heat insulator and then disconnect the freon pipe. Carefully unscrew the tubes, as you did when removing the outdoor unit, screw them on with caps or wrap them with electrical tape.

Important! You can also cut the tubes, squeeze them and then twist them. The main task is to prevent the entry of polluting components into them.

The air system has a distributed circuit for transporting refrigerant between the outdoor and indoor units. Such a device has many advantages, except for one thing - dismantling the system is much more difficult than dismantling a monoblock. And often ignorance of how to remove the air conditioner leads to its failure.

How to properly remove an air conditioner

There are three prerequisites to remove the air conditioner yourself:

• The outdoor unit must be within reach. If it is located on the facade of an apartment building above the level of the second floor, then it can only be dismantled from a window or balcony. Otherwise, you need to involve industrial mountaineering specialists.
• To remove heavy blocks from the wall and properly turn off the compressor, you need at least one assistant.
• It is necessary to rent a pressure gauge station specifically for the type of freon that is pumped into this air conditioner model.

Note. The last point concerns stations with conventional (arrow) pressure gauges. Digital manifolds are customized to the refrigerant brand.

Precautions

If the air conditioner is out of order and cannot be repaired, then it is easy to remove it - there is no need to save freon, the tightness of the compressor, condenser and evaporator is not important.

You cannot do this with a working air conditioner. And in this case, the main thing is that dust and even air do not get inside the system. Otherwise, we can talk about guaranteed compressor output after installation and start-up of the air conditioner in a new location. The reason is a feature of the vacuum pump design.

Freon is extremely fluid, and the temperature difference at the inlet and outlet reaches several tens of degrees. None of the seals and rings used in conventional pumps and compressors will withstand such operating conditions. The required tightness is achieved through extremely precise adjustment of the surface of the moving elements of the pump to the internal geometry of the chambers. The slightest scratch from a solid particle leads to compressor failure. And such a particle could be a grain of ice formed when moisture in the air trapped inside freezes.

That is why new air conditioners are sold filled with inert gas, which is pumped out with a vacuum pump before pumping in freon.

When removing the air conditioner yourself, the freon must be pumped out and the units disconnected. This must be done so that dust and air do not get inside the system. That is, create a vacuum there. And it is advisable to save all the freon (or most of it) so that it would be easier to get the system into working condition in a new place.

Preparation

To properly remove the air conditioner, the only professional equipment you need is a pressure gauge station, which can be rented.

Every home craftsman has the remaining tools:

• a set of wrenches and hex keys;
• screwdrivers;
• pipe cutter or side cutters;
• hand bench vice;
• pliers.

Freon release

There are two ways to dismantle a working air conditioner:

1. Using a pressure gauge station to collect freon in an external unit.
2. Using a freon pumping and collection station connected to a special two-valve cylinder. The station has its own pressure gauge manifold and a compressor for pumping out refrigerant in liquid or gaseous state.

The first method is more “affordable”, but it can only be used when starting the air conditioner - freon is transported using a standard compressor.

The second method is universal. It can be used even in winter, when the air conditioner cannot be turned on due to low outside temperatures. The advantage of this method is that the external unit will be evacuated - without freon in the condenser. Which is much safer when transporting to a new place. But renting such a station and a cylinder will cost more than a regular pressure gauge manifold.

Freon collection in the external unit

On the side of the outdoor unit body there are two fittings from which tubes extend:

• thin - for transporting liquid freon from the condenser to the evaporator;
• thick - for pumping freon gas into the condenser.

Both fittings have shut-off valve heads under the caps. An outlet with a nipple extends from the gas head.

Freon is collected in the condenser in the following order:

1. Remove the protective covers from the fittings and nipples.
2. The manifold is connected to the nipple.
3. Turn on the air conditioner to maximum cold.
4. After a few minutes, close the valve of the liquid fitting, stopping the supply of freon to the evaporator.
5. The pressure is monitored using a pressure gauge.
6. When the arrow shows “-1 MPa”, tighten the gas fitting valve with a hexagon and immediately turn off the air conditioner (for which an assistant is needed) - during prolonged idle mode, the compressor pump may fail.

The pressure gauge reading “-1 MPa” means that all the freon is in the condenser, and there is a technical vacuum inside the evaporator, in the tubes and in the compressor.

After this, you can separate the blocks.

Dismantling the air conditioner step by step

Disassembly while maintaining the functionality of the dismantled air conditioner is as follows:

• sealing of pipeline fittings;
• disconnecting and dismantling the external unit from the facade;
• dismantling the indoor unit in the apartment.

Below are instructions for dismantling a wall-mounted air conditioner.

Outdoor unit

To remove the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, first disconnect the tubes.

There are two ways:

• Unscrew the union nuts that press the flared edges of the tubes to the flanges of the fittings of the outdoor unit. And in place of the nuts, pre-prepared caps are screwed on. The advantage is that the tubes remain intact. The disadvantage is that there is a high risk of air getting into the compressor.
• Side cutters are used to cut copper tubes (about 15 cm from the fitting). The edges are folded and clamped (caulked) using a vice. The disadvantage is that new tubes must be installed in a new place. The advantage is that the operation is quick and the likelihood of dust getting inside with air is much lower.

Note. The other cut edge of the tube must also be caulked to protect the evaporator of the indoor unit.

The next step is to disconnect the cables (signal and power), remove the fastenings of the unit to the frame on the outer wall and lift it into the room.

Compressor

One of the situations when it is necessary to remove the outdoor unit may be to replace the air conditioning compressor. And in this case, the dismantling algorithm is slightly different. The differences are as follows:

• Freon must be completely removed from the system. The correct way is to collect it in a cylinder using a freon pumping station. Incorrect, but simple - release it into the atmosphere (if the compressor is replaced in the warm season and the air temperature is higher than the boiling point of freon at normal pressure).
• There is no need to caulk the tubes - after installing a new compressor, the system is “pumped out” with an external vacuum pump.

It is impossible for a non-specialist to replace the air conditioning compressor on his own. In addition to the vacuum pump and pressure gauge station, it is necessary to have a gas burner to disconnect the suction and outlet pipes of the old compressor from the system, and then solder the new unit to the system. And even if you rent equipment, you need to have the skills to handle it.

You can remove the unit yourself, but it is better to invite a professional to replace the compressor.

Indoor unit

Most household split systems have a wall-mounted indoor unit (although there are other placement options). But with the exception of a ducted air conditioner, the remaining types are dismantled according to the general principle.

To remove the internal wall unit, proceed as follows:

• remove the housing cover;
• disconnect cables and wires;
• cut and caulk the copper tubes that go to the evaporator of the indoor unit;
• cut off the drainage pipe and drain the condensate;
• “snap off” the latches securing the housing to the mounting plate;
• remove the block and unscrew the plate from the wall.

Dismantling in winter

The air conditioner can also work in winter. And not only as a heater, but also in cooling mode (for example, in rooms where servers are located).

Note. It is possible to collect freon in the condenser of the outdoor unit only when operating in cooling mode - in heating mode it already works as an evaporator.

The peculiarity of working in winter in this mode is that there is a lower temperature limit, which is affected by the type of refrigerant, type of air conditioner and additional equipment. This dependence is also related to the design features of the compressor - it is oil-based, and oil thickens at low temperatures. For conventional air conditioners, the lower operating temperature ranges from +5°C to -5°C, for inverter air conditioners - up to minus 15-25°C.

Before dismantling the split system, these nuances must be taken into account. And if the temperature is below the specified limit, and the air conditioner is not equipped with a “winter kit” with heated compressor crankcase, then to remove the outdoor unit you must use a freon pumping and collection station (it has an oil-free compressor).

Antibacterial treatment and cleaning of the existing split system must be performed annually. Let us clarify: we are talking about internal modules used in your home, and office units need to be washed even more often. Maintenance of the external unit is carried out as it gets dirty, but at least once every 2 years. Let's figure out how you can clean your home air conditioner without calling a service technician, that is, with your own hands.

Why servicing more often is beneficial

Unlike old climate control equipment, modern split systems are capable of not only cooling, but also heating the air. Therefore, owners of apartments and private houses often use them until the street temperature drops below -5 °C. Accordingly, the main elements of the air conditioner - filters, heat exchangers and fans - become dirty twice as fast. There are other compelling arguments in favor of timely maintenance:

1. To your health. It is exposed to the harmful effects of fungi and mold that settle and actively multiply inside an overly dusty unit. The sign is an unpleasant musty smell.
2. Dirt accumulated in the external and internal radiator prevents the normal passage of air flow, which reduces the efficiency of the entire installation. With a constant output of heat or cold, more electricity is consumed.
3. Seasonal washing is one thing, but cleaning and antibacterial treatment of a heavily contaminated indoor module is another thing entirely. You will do the first yourself, but for the second you will have to call a specialist with specialized equipment (high pressure washer, steam generator), which will cost you a pretty penny.

Note. A decrease in the efficiency of any refrigeration machine leads to an increase in the load on the compressor - the most expensive part. It turns out that heat exchangers clogged with dirt bring the time of repair, or even replacement, closer.

There is no point in developing the topic of harmful microorganisms living inside dirty air conditioners and harming people’s health, since this fact has long been known to everyone. But it would be useful to find out how much it costs in your region for professional cleaning of split systems with. After all, if the evaporator has not been washed for several years, then calling a specialist becomes inevitable.

Comparative example. The cost of comprehensive cleaning of household air conditioning systems with a power of up to 5 kW is in the range of 2-3 thousand rubles. (35-53 USD). These are Moscow prices; in the regions they may be lower. If you wash the split with your own hands, then you can easily do it in 5, maximum – 10 cu. e., which you will spend to buy the cleaner. Agree, independent prevention is much more profitable than after-sales service.

Simple foam rinsing

This method of removing dirt from an indoor unit is very simple and accessible to everyone, including housewives. It is performed using detergents sold in aerosol cans (Liqui Moly, Plak, Bizol and the like). The technology is like this:

1. Disconnect the device from the power supply, open the lid and remove the filters. Rinse them with running water and leave to dry.
2. Apply foam from the bottle onto the evaporator fins and wait for the time specified in the instructions (from 10 to 30 minutes).
3. Install the filters and turn on the split system in heating or ventilation mode (depending on the recommendations on the can) and let it work for half an hour. Ventilate the room.

How to foam clean an air conditioner at home is clearly demonstrated in the video:

Unfortunately, this method cannot be called effective, because it only allows you to flush the heat exchanger. The fan turbine, drainage basin and hidden cavities of the device remain dirty. Therefore, next we propose to consider how to properly clean the split system units, having first disassembled them.

How to disassemble and wash the indoor unit

The cleaning process is proposed to be considered using the example of a Korean Daewoo split with a capacity of 18 kBTU or 5.3 kW. What you will need for work:

• flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• alkaline-based cleaner Carlyclean or similar in a container with a hand sprayer;
• a special polyethylene cover with a water drain, made to fit the dimensions of the indoor module;
• latex gloves;
• another hand-held sprayer to rinse off the cleaner.

For reference. A single dose of Carlyclean can be ordered at any specialized online store at a price of about 3 USD. e. They also sell covers that protect walls from drips (cost is about 2 USD). If you wish, you can solder such a device yourself from plastic film.

To thoroughly clean and disinfect all parts of the internal module, you need to disassemble it in the following order:

Note. Split systems from other manufacturers are disassembled in approximately the same order. Differences occur in the methods of attaching the panels, the number of blinds and the placement of the display.

If you are servicing your home air conditioner for the first time, the disassembly procedure will take approximately 1.5-2 hours. This gives you access to the fan turbine and the cavity behind it, which also needs to be cleaned. Then everything is simple: pull the cover over the module, sliding its edges between the wall and the body, then start cleaning the “split”:

1. Wear rubber gloves and thoroughly apply cleaning fluid to the heat exchanger, fan drum and internal cavities. At the same time, rotate the turbine with your free hand.
2. After 5-10 minutes, take a water sprayer and wash off the product along with the dirt. You need to spray until clean water runs out of the block.
3. Wait until all the water has drained out of the indoor unit, then remove the cover and let the unit dry.
4. Wash the removed panel, bath and filters and dry them. At the same time, try not to wet the foam seals. After drying, the air conditioner can be assembled.

Advice. It is better to start assembly the next day so that all the parts have time to dry thoroughly. Our video will tell you how to properly disassemble and clean the internal unit of a split system:

Instructions for cleaning the outdoor unit

The main difficulty in servicing the external unit is its location. If it is installed on the wall of a high-rise building on the side of a window opening, then it is better to avoid cleaning it yourself, unless you live on the first floor. It is safer to work when the capacitor is placed in the following places:

• on an unglazed balcony or loggia;
• on the wall of a private house where you can attach a ladder;
• under the apartment window.

The disassembly and cleaning procedure itself is quite simple and is performed in the following sequence:

For reference. The electronics and compressor installed in the external unit are separated from the condenser by a partition, so you can safely apply the product and rinse it off with water.

It is also better to postpone turning on the cooler for a day so that the seals have time to dry. How to clean the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is shown in the video:

Conclusion

The described self-cleaning technology is suitable for split systems that have not become heavily clogged with dirt. After watching the video, you will see how easy it is to wash the parts of a cooler that has been in use for 1-2 years since the last service. If, upon opening, you find a decent layer of dirt, then it is better to contact a service workshop for the first time. Its specialists will thoroughly clean the air conditioner and perform antibacterial steam treatment, and you will take care of further cleaning.

Partial or complete dismantling of the air conditioner is carried out for various reasons - renovation of the apartment, moving, installation in another room, and so on. The standard approach is to call employees of a specialized company to properly remove the split system and pay for this service. A more economical option is to dismantle the air conditioner yourself, having understood the intricacies of the procedure. This is not to say that it is simple, but with the right approach it is quite feasible.

About the methods and difficulties of dismantling with your own hands

As a rule, owners of private houses and apartments install 2 types of air conditioners - monoblock (mobile) and split systems. There are no particular problems with the former, since in such models all the main elements are enclosed in a single housing, and to move the unit it is enough to simply disconnect the air duct.

In addition to monoblocks and “splits,” there are other types of climate control systems - cassette, duct and column. But usually such equipment is installed in offices, shopping centers and other large premises; in private homes it is used quite rarely.

The split system consists of two sections located inside and outside the home. They are connected to each other by two lines through which the refrigerant, freon, circulates in various states of aggregation. Through a copper tube of small diameter it flows in the form of a liquid from the external unit to the internal one. Along a large diameter line, the refrigerant gas moves in the opposite direction. This gives rise to a number of difficulties that await the ignorant user when attempting to dismantle them independently:

1. Complete or partial loss of freon as a result of unqualified disconnection of main pipelines.
2. Air containing moisture entering the tubes and heat exchangers. If the split system is installed incorrectly in another location, incompressible moisture will enter the compressor and may harm it.
3. Clogging of copper tubes when pulling them out of the wall and during transportation. Moisture or sand in the freon circuit is the quick “death” of the compressor.
4. When disconnecting the lines from the pipes of the internal section, you can accidentally twist the threaded fittings soldered to them.
5. Disconnecting power wires without marking the terminals where they were connected leads to confusion during the re-installation process.
6. The drainage pipe that leads condensate to the street is cut too short.
7. Loss during transportation of screws and other small parts that are not secured after dismantling.

Most of the listed cases lead to expensive repairs of your air conditioner in a specialized workshop, so before removing the split system, you must carefully study the instructions below.

There are three ways to dismantle the indoor and outdoor units:

• simple disassembly with release of refrigerant into the atmosphere;
• with preservation of freon in the system using the “by eye” method;
• using special equipment that allows you to completely save the refrigerant in the circuit.

The last method gives the best results, although all three are used in certain circumstances. To ensure that you do not have problems with installing a removed air conditioner and its further operation, it is recommended to proceed with the third option, having previously familiarized yourself with the method of preserving freon.

Preparatory activities

First of all, you need to prepare the following set of tools and accessories:

• Phillips and flat head screwdrivers;
• set of open-end wrenches;
• stationery knife;
• hex keys measuring 5...10 mm;
• pressure manifold or pressure gauge with a tube and threaded connection, designed for a maximum pressure of 10-15 Bar;
• masking tape and marker;
• insulating tape or regular tape.

You will definitely need a pressure manifold if you plan to install a split system in another room, so it is better to rent it, but buying it will be too expensive.

Also, for convenient and safe work, a stepladder is needed to easily reach the internal module installed under the ceiling. It is better to pull the outer section, located on the wall of an apartment building, through the window, having previously tied it with a rope. The services of an assistant will be useful here.

An important stage of preparation is to ensure that the refrigerant is preserved with minimal losses. For this, the operating principle of the air conditioner is used, thanks to which all the freon can be collected in one place - the circuit of the outdoor unit. Having prepared the tools, proceed according to the instructions:

1. Covering the infrared element on the remote control with your hand, switch the split system to “Turbo” mode and set the minimum temperature. Remove your hand from the element and point the remote control at the air conditioner. In this way, you start the compressor immediately at full power.
2. Connect the hose from the pressure gauge to the service fitting located on the side of the outdoor unit, after which it will immediately indicate the pressure in the system. In some models, these pipes are hidden under a cover; it must be removed.
3. Unscrew the 2 nuts - plugs located at the ends of the fittings. Under them you will find valves that can be adjusted with a hex key. Select the appropriate hexagon size.
4. Turn off the tap of the liquid refrigerant line (this is a thinner tube) and monitor the pressure gauge. At this time, the compressor draws in freon gas through the second tube.
5. When the device needle drops to zero and begins to go into the vacuum zone, close the second valve and quickly turn off the air conditioner using the remote control. That's all, the refrigerant is in full volume in the circuit of the external module.

In split systems filled with different brands of freon (sometimes R22 and R410), the diameter of the thread of the service fitting where the pressure gauge is connected is different. For R410 you need a special adapter, which should be prepared in advance.

The refrigerant is stored using the “by eye” method without a pressure gauge manifold. After closing the liquid valve, you need to wait about 40-50 seconds, then close the gas tap and turn off the household appliance. The disadvantage is clear: you will not know how much freon managed to get into the outdoor unit, and keeping the compressor running for a long time with the line blocked is unacceptable. The result will appear the next time you install “split” and launch it.

Instructions for removing the external module of a split system

The outdoor unit of the air conditioner must be dismantled when moving or moving it to a new location. To repair an apartment, it is not necessary to remove the outer section, but you will still have to disconnect the freon lines, cable and drainage. The work is performed in the following order:

1. Unscrew the pressure gauge hose used when pumping refrigerant and replace the end cap nuts.
2. Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the union nuts holding the copper tubes to the fittings and bend them to the side. Using adhesive tape or tape, protect all open holes in the lines and pipes of the external module so that debris and dust do not get inside during operation.
3. To disconnect the electrical cable, unplug the device and remove the cover covering the terminals (located above the freon valves). Before unscrewing the wires, place a strip of masking tape over the terminals and label them with a color marker to document the wiring order. Disconnect the wires and remove the cable.
4. Tie the disconnected lines to the bracket of the outdoor unit so that the copper tubes do not dangle or bend, otherwise they will have to be replaced.
5. Unscrew the 4 nuts securing the external module to the bracket, tie it with a rope and, together with an assistant, remove the unit.

Professional refrigeration technicians often practice a slightly different approach: they do not unscrew the union nuts and do not remove the freon tubes from the fittings of the outdoor unit, but bite them off. Then there is no need to wrap the ends of the pipelines with tape to protect them from moisture and debris, because they are flattened with wire cutters. During subsequent installation, the flattened ends are cut off and flared for connection with a union nut.

After disconnecting the cable cores from the terminals, tighten the contact screws and tighten them, as they may fall out and get lost during transportation.

It is better to remove the bracket itself later, when you untie the freon circuit pipelines from it. If the lines extend out of the wall no more than a meter, then there is no need to tie them down. The tubes should be carefully aligned to make it easier to pull them in from the inside. The bracket is most often attached to 4 anchor bolts, unscrewed with a regular open-end wrench.

Correct disconnection of highways from the external section - photo gallery

The lines are disconnected after unscrewing the union nuts. Screw the plugs that close the port valves into place. Unscrew the cap to disconnect the wires. Having marked the location of the wires, disconnect the cable. After disconnecting the cable, the screws on the block must be tightened. According to the rules, copper pipelines must be bitten off. The bitten off tubes must be plugged.

How to remove the outdoor module while saving freon - video

How to dismantle the indoor unit of an air conditioner yourself

To remove the internal module from the wall, you need to disconnect all communications from it - cable, tubes for freon and condensate. The place where the pipelines are twisted is usually located in a housing niche located in the lower part. Depending on the split system model, there are 2 ways to get to this niche:

1. Unlock the 3-4 plastic latches securing the bottom of the unit to the mounting plate. Move the bottom of the housing away from the wall and insert any rod between them, remove the communications harness from the niche.
2. If your “split” model does not have latches, then you need to remove the front plastic panel, after first dismantling the blinds and additional covers (when available).

When you get to the harness, make a longitudinal cut on it with a utility knife, which will allow you to move the insulation and grab the nuts with the keys. Do not make the cut too long, otherwise you will have to change the insulating material later. Perform further operations in this order:

1. Use two open-end wrenches to unscrew the joints of the lines. An important point: the drive soldered to the short tube of the block itself cannot be rotated; it must be held in place with a wrench while unscrewing the union nut.
2. Wrap the ends of the pipelines with electrical tape or tape to protect them from dirt.
3. Find the joint between the drain pipe and the outlet pipe and disconnect it. You should not cut the corrugation anywhere, so that later it will be more convenient to join it back together.
4. Remove the cover of the electrical compartment (located on the right side of the case or under the front panel), make notes using a marker and tape, then unscrew the screws and disconnect the cable cores. Tighten the screws back and screw on the cover.
5. When all communications are disconnected, grab the housing from both sides and remove it from the mounting plate, lifting it up slightly. Give the block to your assistant.
6. Remove the mounting plate by unscrewing all the dowels.

Considering that condensation may remain in the pan of the indoor module, it is advisable to protect the wall with plastic film before dismantling. If you are removing an air conditioner for apartment renovation, then such a precaution is unnecessary.

After removing the inner section from the wall, place all the unscrewed parts on it, tighten the screws and put on the mounting plate. Place the protruding pipes in a niche, securing them with masking tape. Use the same material to secure the opening front panel so that it does not dangle during transportation.

The last step is the dismantling of communications laid along the wall or inside it. There are no difficulties here, the main thing is not to bend the copper tubes under a small radius. Such treatment at the bend reduces the flow area, and it is quite difficult to align the tube with an oval profile. Pull the harness out of the outer wall carefully so as not to damage the insulation. If the hole was sealed with polyurethane foam, then it must be cut out in parts. When finished, roll the tourniquet into a ring and secure with tape.

Procedure for dismantling the indoor module - photo gallery

To disconnect the electrical wiring, you need to remove the cover of the electrical compartment. Before disconnecting the wires, write down the order of their connection. Cut the harness running in the niche with a knife and get to the junction of the tubes. Unscrew the connecting nuts. The junction of the drainage tubes. Disconnect the cable running in the same harness. The indoor unit can be easily removed with both hands. The last one stage - removing the mounting plate Having tilted the body, it must be fixed in this position

How to remove internal blocks of different designs - video

Disassembly in winter

If the outside temperature has dropped to -5°C or more, it is recommended to refrain from dismantling for the following reasons:

• it will not be possible to pump the refrigerant into the external module;
• in cold weather, you cannot disassemble connections, unscrew plugs or close service ports;
• As a result of disassembly, service valve seals often fail.

In a situation where you cannot do without removing the split system at subzero temperatures, be sure to warm up the fittings of the outdoor unit with a hair dryer. Then unscrew the plugs and close both valves, thus retaining some of the freon remaining in the outdoor unit circuit. Then slowly unscrew the lines from the fittings and disconnect them, releasing the second part of the refrigerant into the atmosphere. Then proceed according to the algorithm described above.

Personnel from specialized companies use pressure gauge stations to pump out freon in winter. But if you rent such equipment, then dismantling will cost more than paying specialists, and the result will be dubious.

At temperatures above -5°C, you can perform work according to standard instructions, but it is advisable to use a pressure gauge to control the pumping of refrigerant. If you act “by eye”, you may not guess the holding time and will still lose some of the freon. It is equally dangerous to keep the compressor running without cooling (and it is cooled by circulating freon); overheating can cause it to fail.

You will successfully dismantle your home air conditioner if you get to work during the warm season and follow the instructions provided. You must not miss a single detail, act very carefully and without haste. Do not neglect the pressure gauge, since the loss of refrigerant will negate all savings from this procedure.