How to install PVC windows in a wooden house yourself: step-by-step instructions. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows with double-glazed windows in a wooden house Installation of plastic windows in a wooden house

Unlike foam or reinforced concrete buildings, wooden houses have high instability. This term refers to minimal but constant shrinkage of the structure. The tree “shrinks out” not in 2-3 years, as some experts believe, but in at least 5 years. Of course, shrinkage visible to the naked eye occurs during the first 12 months, but then the home continues to decrease in volume. If you do not take this property into account and, for example, install a plastic window in a wooden house by analogy with reinforced concrete structures, you can seriously pay for the miscalculation.

The shrinkage of timber and logs is from 1 to 2 cm per meter of masonry. That is, a two-story wooden house can reduce its height by 10-12 cm after 5 years. If the owners decide to install plastic windows using generally accepted technologies, they will be disappointed within a year. The entire weight of the structure will put pressure on PVC products; First, the doors will stop opening, and then the frame will crack altogether, ceasing to perform thermal insulation functions. But you don’t need to take extraordinary measures to properly install plastic windows - just install a frame in the window opening.

Design Features

The purpose of the frame (otherwise called casing) is to give the windows complete independence from the load-bearing walls of the house. The design has several undeniable advantages:

it eliminates even the minimum vertical load on the window, since it does not allow the logs to move;
does not interfere with the natural shrinkage of the house;
serves to strengthen the house in the area of the window opening.

There are two types of casing. In the first case, grooves are made into which wooden blocks of the same dimensions as the window opening are placed. In the second, a ridge is cut out in the latter, onto which a carriage (a log hewn on opposite sides, better known as a gable beam) with a groove is fixed.

It is advisable to install plastic windows in a log house (or timber house) with an assistant, since installation of the frame requires high precision, and the weight of the double-glazed window is sometimes difficult for one person to handle.

Required Tools

To install PVC windows, you will need a basic set of construction supplies, including:

drill;
screwdriver;
chisel;
building level;
roulette;
mallet (wooden hammer);
self-tapping screws no more than 10 cm long (extended versions will violate the integrity of logs or beams);
polyurethane foam;
spacer wedges made of wood;
spray bottle with water;
gloves.

In addition, you will need a special adjusting hexagon for window structures. There are hundreds of videos on the topic of installing windows in wooden structures that are easy to find. However, the basic and most valuable tips are given below.

Surface preparation stage

The first thing you need to do is dismantle the old window. If its condition is not bad, it may be useful in another matter (for example, when building a country greenhouse). Removing windows is done carefully so as not to damage the wooden walls. After this, the opening is cleared of dust and dirt.

Measuring the parameters of a window opening must be as accurate as possible. It is advisable to record the obtained values on paper. Installing a new window is simple, but just one millimeter of miscalculation can seriously warp it.

If the contour of the opening is not completely smooth, it will have to be leveled using putty or sealant. A properly prepared surface for a new PVC product is characterized by ideal geometry (right angles).

It is also necessary to maintain a reserve for shrinkage at home. This is about 6 cm in height, 2 cm in height and sides for foaming, 4 cm under the window sill.

Depending on the time of year and the current stage of construction, ordering double-glazed windows either precedes dismantling or becomes the final stage. Few people would want to install a window in a wooden house and replace it after a year or two, so some points need to be taken into account. The buyer should decide on the number of sashes, the direction of their opening, the shape, size, and color of future products. And, of course, you should order from reliable manufacturers.

Installation instructions for PVC windows

The ideal distance from the floor to the window sill will be 80-90 cm. This is slightly higher than the desk. The user must lean freely on the window sill, bending the body minimally. The further sequence of actions is given below.

Accurate markings are made for the side and bottom tenons (5x5 cm), after which they are cut out.
In previously prepared and well-dried boards (preferably inch), holes are cut out that will fill the tenons.
The window opening and the frame blank are treated with antifungal impregnation.
Insulation (jute tape, tow, etc.) is attached to the tenon using a construction stapler.
The casing structure is installed in the opening, starting from the window sill. Its elements are connected with self-tapping screws, and the joints are coated with sealant.

In general, the window frame is ready, all that remains is to insulate the upper landing gap. The same jute will do; the opening is caulked as tightly as possible. Now you can install a plastic window inside the opening. To do this, do the following:

Insert the glass unit into the opening, perfectly aligning it with the front edge. Apply a level to make sure the geometry of the sides is correct. To make work easier, first remove the sashes from the insulation units.
Fix the frame inside the opening using self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it.
Fill the gaps between the glass unit and the casing with polyurethane foam.
Before the foam has hardened, install the window sill and screw it.
After the foam has dried, waterproof it on the outside with acrylic sealant, sealing tape or a vapor-permeable membrane, and on the inside with vapor barrier tape.

Due to the installation of an additional structure (casing), it may seem that it is difficult to install windows in a timber or log house, but this is not so. To be confident about the durability of the structure and the reliable performance of functions by PVC products, it is better to allocate a couple of hours for additional work. The casing will allow you to avoid unnecessary expenses as the home shrinks, and will also save the plastic novelty from deformation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6s3VKuxmy4o Video can"t be loaded: Installing a plastic window in a casing in a wooden house or log house (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6s3VKuxmy4o)

Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, the openings of buildings made of logs and beams, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.

Shrinkage

But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to frame-panel houses) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the wall material (logs, timber). And this point is decisive in installing plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual, in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.

There is an opinion that the first two are the most active period of wood drying. But that's not true. After the construction of the house, the shrinkage of the walls continues for decades. But that is not all. Wood not only gives off moisture, but also absorbs it. Therefore, rigid fastening when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!

Shrinkage in a log house is about 10 - 15 mm per log D = 250-300 mm
Shrinkage in a house made of timber is about 7 - 10 mm per beam with a section of 150x150 mm
Glued laminated timber - unknown.

There are other ways to calculate the shrinkage height of log houses as a percentage: approximately 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses made of timber and logs depends on many factors:

on the material (log, rounded log, timber, laminated timber);
on the time of material procurement (winter procurement or summer);
depending on the time of day(morning, evening) Yes-Yes!!! Don't be surprised - we explored this too!
from where the forest grew (swamp, field);on the degree of resinity and density of the tree;
on the size of the material - both its length and thickness;
from the moisture content of the material;
on the size of the building;on construction technology (dowel, type of felling, etc.);
from the material of inter-crown insulation;from the type of wood;
depending on the time of year when construction is carried out.

The most severe shrinkage occurs in log houses made of ordinary logs, followed by rounded logs, profiled beams, timber, and laminated veneer lumber.
Even if the house is more than a dozen years old, it is still necessary when installing windows in a wooden house to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase and or decrease in humidity and air temperature at different times of the year.

Wooden house - Living

A wooden house is a constantly moving structure, compared to buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is carried out not in the opening itself, but in a special wooden box, which acts as a connecting link between the window and the wall. This box is called differently: casing, frame, deck, pigtail, linden.

As can be seen from the photo, the casing is an ordinary window box made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick boards, installed inside the opening.

The meaning of this design is that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the opening, since it is not attached to the logs (beams) with nails, screws, or other fasteners, but is held in place by grooves in the side posts mounted on the spikes at the ends of the logs. Even foam is not used to seal the gaps around the window frame - only tow, jute (flax batting) and other soft insulation.

Shrinkage gap

Please note: a large gap is specially left above the jamb, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible amount of shrinkage of the logs (beams). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to a minimum, but the upper log (timber) of the opening, if calculated correctly, will not press down or deform the frame. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not in any way affect the size and shape of the window frame, and, accordingly, will not damage the plastic window located inside it.

Shrinkage gap size

If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house that has long gone through the process of shrinkage, then, when disassembling the window blocks, you will probably notice: they are made according to the same principle as the casing design described here, i.e. They are not nailed to the logs of the opening, but are fixed in it using a simple tongue-and-groove system on the sides.

This suggests that the technology of installing windows and doors in a wooden house in frames was invented a very long time ago, and is used successfully to this day. We will not invent anything new and will follow the same path.

There are several ways to install the pigtail (more details at the link):

T-shaped frame - a groove is made at the ends of the opening logs, and a T-shaped profile is placed into it;
U-shaped - the tenon is cut out at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side casing posts).

We do both options, since they provide maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the frame not only protects the window from shrinkage of the walls, but also ensures the stability of the wall at the place where the opening is cut.

Briefly, the sequence of our actions will be as follows:We cut out an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which are slightly larger than the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;

We form a groove for the T-shaped pigtail;

We form a spike for a U-shaped pigtail;

We make the parts of the pigtail;

We install the window frame in the finished opening;

We install a window in a wooden house into a frame, aligning it flush along the front edge (we fasten it with self-tapping screws of such length that they do not pierce through the frame and do not go into the logs);

We blow foam into the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the frame, not forgetting about the installation of waterproofing (outside) and vapor barrier (inside - suitable for rough frame under cladding, for finishing it is not required since the window rests on the quarter) of the foam seam;

we install external platbands (we attach them to the casing);

we carry out the interior finishing of the window (window sill, slopes - not required for finishing the frame, since it is the slopes and window sill).

We use foam only inside the pigtail. We insulate the gaps around it with traditional flax fiber or jute fabric.

Over the next 5 years (if the house is newly built), we will have to periodically remove the trim and gradually reduce the amount of insulation put in there. If this is not done, the upper parts may bend.

Even after the house has completely settled, the gaps around the casing should under no circumstances be sealed with foam.

Preparing the opening for installing a window in a wooden house

Before cutting, we mark the window opening using a level, because the plastic window will be installed strictly level in all planes, therefore the frame must also be installed in the opening as accurately as possible according to the level initially.

The lower crown in the opening needs to be sawed through so that a flat horizontal platform is obtained.

We determine the dimensions of the opening based on the size of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the required gaps.

We perform all calculations visually. Here is an example of a diagram for calculating the size of the opening for a rough T-shaped frame:

Accordingly, we take a beam with a cross-section of 100x150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.

Here is a diagram for calculating the details of a p-type finishing socket:

For a U-shaped window frame, we cut out a U-shaped profile from solid timber.

The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage of the house, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, roughly calculate, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window with a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the casing crossbars, plus installation gaps of ~ 245 mm) with 15 percent shrinkage, the top gap will be 24.5 cm - a huge hole , the height of which will most likely end up being too large.

To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not rack your brains over GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values of building materials of various wood species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it simpler, namely:

If you are building a new house, then start installing windows no earlier than a year after the construction of the log house in order to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, when manufacturing and installing the frame, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a timber house and 40 mm for a house made of laminated veneer lumber;

If your house has stood for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal - 40 millimeters, just to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the opening;

So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it and cut it out. Now you need to cut out a tenon at the ends of the logs (beams) on the sides of the opening. The tenon is also marked using a level in the center of the log (beam).

We make the tenon size 60 mm - width and 40 mm height.

We cover the sides and bottom of the opening with linen or jute using a stapler.

Making a pigtail

First, you need to decide on the width of the frame bars: it should either be equal to the thickness of the wall, or be a little larger, so that later, when installing external trims, they (the trims) fit tightly and unhindered on the frame, and not on the wall. There is another option in a log house - a groove around the opening along the width of the groove.

Secondly, to make a pigtail you need to take well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself will soon deform as it dries.

First we cut out the bottom part (window sill), making it 10 cm longer than the width of the opening. At the ends of the window sill we cut a groove for a tenon 65 mm wide and 40 mm deep.

We also make small 20 mm recesses at the ends of both window sills for joining the crossbars with the side posts - the so-called locks.

We make the side posts 70 mm higher than the height of the plastic window frame. On the reverse sides of the racks, using a circular saw, we cut out a groove for a tenon 60 mm wide and 40 mm deep. We immediately make a lock in the side posts for the upper part.

Lastly, we make the top part of the pigtail. Based on the dimensions obtained between the two installed side parts.

Installation of the pigtail

We begin installing the frame into the opening from the bottom crossbar (window sill). Then the top is inserted into the opening, under which we place the side posts one by one, placing them with grooves on the tenons.

We fasten the elements of the frame together with self-tapping screws and, if desired (not obligatory), coat the joints with sealant. We caulk the gaps around the casing with ordinary tow, but without much fanaticism, so that the parts do not bend.

We close the upper shrinkage gap with soft insulation such as Rocwool or holofiber. This operation is best done after installing windows and external trim. More details in the article ""

Now you can begin installing the window.

Installing a window in a wooden house

We install a wooden or plastic window, aligning it with the front edge of the frame. There is no need to place a window inside a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, due to the lower thermal conductivity coefficient of wood (smaller freezing depth).

Moreover, given the small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, by deepening the window into the opening, we will be forced to trim the already narrow window sill. And the ledge that is formed as a result on the outside of the opening will have to be additionally closed and sealed. And as measurements taken with a thermal imager show, the main conductor of cold is the profile itself. For more details, see the photo report made from photographs from a thermal imager here.

Rough frame for cladding

If you have calculated the dimensions of the opening and the frame as described above, then the installation gaps around the window frame when installing in a wooden house should be 15 mm on the sides, 15 mm on the top and 15 mm on the bottom (we do not make the bottom gap larger, because the stand profile makes it possible later place a plastic window sill under the frame, the thickness of which is 30 mm).

It is more convenient to attach the frame to the frame with the help of self-tapping screws of such a size that they fit into the body of the frame, but do not penetrate the wall. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Using self-tapping screws longer than the thickness of the frame is dangerous because they will pass through the frame and screw into the logs (timber), which is unacceptable.

Provided that all preparatory work has been done using a level, the window frame should fit exactly along the frame, i.e. the front edge of the frame should be parallel to the plane of the window, without noticeable distortions.

Waterproofing a window from the outside

Before foaming the gap between the window and the frame, we need to decide what material we will use to waterproof the installation seam on the street side. As you know, the two main enemies of foam are sunlight and water. If we can simply cover the installation seam with platbands or flashings from the sun's rays, then with waterproofing the situation is more complicated, because it must meet two basic conditions: not let water in and at the same time not prevent moisture vapor from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing must be resistant to prolonged weathering.

All these conditions are met by materials such as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant “STIZ-A”.
Sealant "STIZ-A" - a one-component, vapor-permeable acrylic sealant of white color for sealing the outer layer - is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood, among others.

It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature deformation and can be applied even at temperatures as low as -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find in small containers, and buying a whole bucket makes sense when you are installing a lot of windows. If you choose “STIZ-A” as external waterproofing, then the procedure will be as follows: first we foam the window, then, after complete drying, we cut off the foam sticking out from the outside and after that, using a spatula, apply sealant to the cut.

Waterproofing vapor-permeable tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape consisting of a vapor diffusion membrane with an adhesive layer of sealant on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, a tape with a width of 70 mm is suitable. When using this tape as waterproofing, ensure it is oriented correctly when gluing.

You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (don’t forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, air passage is only possible in one direction. The side from which it is impossible to “blow through” the tape is the outer (street) side.

The sequence of actions (first the tape, then the foam or first the foam, then the tape) does not matter much, but you need to take into account that the foam, expanding when drying, not only stretches the tape with a bubble (it will interfere later when installing platbands), but in general it can tear it away from the window or frame.

Therefore, if you first stick the tape, then screw the platbands or hard strips on top of it immediately, and only then foam it. Or foam it first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and stick the tape on the same day so as not to expose the foam cut to prolonged weathering.

PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special composition, thanks to which it is waterproofing and vapor-permeable. Supplied compressed, rolled into rollers.

If you choose PSUL tape, then buy one that expands more than 30 mm. The PSUL will have to be glued not to the outer side of the frame profile, but to the end next to the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the opening, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to cover the frame with PSUL before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because after a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.

The installation seam should be foamed only after the PSUL has completely expanded and closed the installation gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with the waterproofing tape: the foam expanding as it dries can squeeze the PSUL out. This can be avoided by pressing the PSUL on the street side with platbands or flashings.

Internal vapor barrier of windows

On the inside, the foam should also not remain open to prevent moisture from entering it from the air in the room. To install an internal vapor barrier, you can use vapor barrier tape, which has already been discussed in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SAZILAST-11 (“STIZ-B”).

The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame with a thin adhesive strip before foaming. Immediately after foaming, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the pigtail. Before the foam under the tape hardens, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and screw the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise later the tape “bloated” with foam will interfere with this.

Sazilast is applied to the hardened foam, or more precisely, to its cut. In this case, it is no longer necessary to rush to install the window sills and the starting profile, as when using tape. Nothing will prevent you from doing this later, when it is convenient.

Interior decoration

The interior decoration of a window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) is not much different from the decoration in a panel or brick house. It’s even a little simpler here: you don’t need to drill holes to install the slopes - we fasten everything with self-tapping screws into the wood (into the frame).

There is also no need to additionally insulate the slopes from the inside with foam plastic or other material. To be on the safe side, before installing the slopes, it is enough to foam the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the installation seam. This will be enough, because wood does not freeze as deeply as concrete or brick.

Like a window sill and slopes

This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve, in my opinion, a greater aesthetic effect, but for this you will need a good woodworking machine to evenly cut out the so-called reverse quarter on the casing elements, which will be install a plastic window.

What a reverse quarter is can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess into which the window frame will be installed on the street side. Quarter depth - 20 mm. The width is made exactly corresponding to the thickness of the frame, for example: a 5-chamber VEKA has a profile thickness of 70 mm, therefore the width of the reverse quarter should be 70 mm.

It is important to accurately calculate the dimensions of the frame and the window, carefully assemble the frame and install the frame in the opening exactly at the level - the internal clearance should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all edges of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without distortion. In order not to make a mistake in the dimensions, it is better to first make and install the window frame, and only then accurately measure and order the plastic window locally.

Let's assume that the window frame is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made such that it is slightly larger than the “clearance” of the casing, or more precisely: 10 mm more in width and the same amount in height. Such a window will not fit into the frame from the inside, but it will easily fit into the reverse quarter from the street side. In this case, the edges of the frame will “hide” behind a quarter of 5 mm on each side (this is no longer possible - the sash hinges will interfere), and an installation gap will remain around the frame, which will later be filled with foam.

The frame is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful tight connection between the frame and the casing on the room side, you can use a D-shaped door seal. It is glued before installing the frame with the adhesive side on the edge of the quarter. Accordingly, the dimensions of the quarter must be adjusted for the seal.

But as practice shows, with high-quality production of the pigtail, the need for such an addition disappears. The window is placed directly into the quarter and the meringue of the gaps is pressed tightly against the frame.

When attaching the frame, we press it tightly against the quarter, squeezing the seal, and screw in the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window is foamed from the street. Then, after the foam has dried, its excess is cut off, the seam is sealed with waterproofing tape or sealed with “STIZ-A” sealant, and the trim is installed.

Of course, since we refuse to decorate the casing with any additional elements, we must refine it, i.e. give it a look that matches the interior design of the room.

First of all, you need to give the bottom crossbar the shape of a window sill so that its inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.

Secondly, we “dawn” the internal surfaces of the racks and the top, i.e. we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross-section) shape of these elements and create a large chamfer, simulating a reversal of the slopes.

Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many options here: texture, color - the choice is yours. You can simply sand the surface and coat it with varnish. You can cover the wood with stain of the desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and/or the color of the walls.

There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more expensive option - to brush the surface, i.e. antiqued treatment.

Artificial aging of antique wood is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove soft fibers from the surface of wood using a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface turns from smooth to embossed. After giving the relief texture, the wood is cleaned of lint and fibers, then the final gloss is given.

You can immediately coat the wood with varnish, but “aged” wood will look much more impressive after treating it with stain of the color you want. However, there is an even more effective way of painting - patting - creating a contrast between dark wood pores and a lighter surface.

This is achieved using paint of the desired color: the entire front surface of the casing is covered with it, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth before the paint has had time to dry. The final stage of artificial aging is varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. You can then rub the surface with a soft cloth to add shine.

Reading time ≈ 12 minutes

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is currently very popular - it is affordable, holds heat well and does not lose its geometric parameters. Against the backdrop of rising energy prices, such materials are almost a panacea, so installing a plastic window in a wooden house with your own hands is of interest to many people. In the article, in addition to installation instructions, you will find photo and video materials that will help you cope with the task.

Log house with an attic in the process of glazing with PVC windows

Selecting plastic windows

In order to choose a good plastic window that is suitable specifically for your case, you will have to pay attention to several parameters. Do not neglect these indicators so that during operation you do not have any complaints about the manufacturer or even force majeure circumstances.

Features of double-glazed windows

Single-chamber (left) and three-chamber (right) double-glazed windows

The production of double-glazed windows involves not only different manufacturing technologies, but also different glass - this directly affects their performance characteristics. Below you will see what they are:

Regular option with float glass. This glass has high light transparency and is free from any disadvantages.
Multifunctional double-glazed windows. There is protection from ultraviolet radiation (exposure to sunlight) and has low heat transfer capacity. These features directly affect the maintenance of the microclimate in the room - they keep out the cold in winter and heat in summer.
Self-cleaning designs. Such double-glazed windows help to significantly save time on cleaning, since the windows do not have to be washed from the outside. The special composition with which the glass is coated, when exposed to ultraviolet radiation (sun rays), destroys the dirt that will be washed away by the first rain. No streaks or stains remain.
Soundproofing options. In this case, thicker glasses and a scientific approach to the distance between them are used. Thanks to the high-quality profile, seal and glazing bead, vibration as such is completely eliminated. Such windows do not absorb, but reflect airborne noise, which affects densely populated and industrial areas, as well as houses located near railway stations and airfields.
Reflective double-glazed windows. They are also called specular because they are shiny and reflective with a reflectance of about 4%. Such options are ideal for hot climatic conditions - they do not allow heat to pass through, do not heat up themselves, but at the same time photons (light) pass through unhindered.
Colored double glazed windows. Such glass softens bright light and does not transmit heat well, although transparency does not suffer from this. Properties (light and heat retention) change with shades.
Tinted double glazed windows. They have the same characteristics as colored ones, but no coloring pigments are used in the composition. The shade changes due to the gluing of a special film.
Energy saving options with k-glass. This is ordinary float glass, onto which, during its manufacturing process (in a hot state), a k-coating (thin metal film) is applied using the pyrolysis method. This significantly reduces thermal conductivity and increases mechanical strength (glass is placed on the outside).
Energy saving options with i-glass. It has the reduced thermal conductivity inherent in k-glass. But i-coating is a thin layer of silver and the glass can easily be deformed, so it is installed inside a double-glazed window.
Designs made from smart glass. These are like “living” windows that change their parameters (transparency and thermal conductivity) when they change from the outside. This category includes energy-saving and self-cleaning windows.
Triplex glass. It is a multilayer sheet with a transparent polymer in the interlayer. This factor does not reduce translucency, but increases fire resistance and mechanical strength (this does not affect thermal conductivity and sound insulation). If such glass is broken, it will not shatter into small fragments, but will be held on to the polymer.

Note. Also, double-glazed windows are distinguished by the number of chambers. For regions with a temperate climate, one- and two-chamber packages are popular, in cold zones - three-chamber ones.

Video: The glass unit formula determines the choice

Metal-plastic profile

Five-chamber profile made of metal-plastic

The functionality of PVC profiles for windows can be determined by six parameters, including:

Number of cameras. According to the building standard, 3, 4 and 5 chamber PVC profiles are produced. Moreover, the thickness of the first two options is 60 mm, and the third – 70 mm.
The width of the outer wall can be of three classes:

A – 3 mm ±0.2 mm;
B – 2.7 mm ±0.2 mm;
C – 2.5 mm ±0.2 mm.

Reinforcing or guide profile. It determines the rigidity of the frame and its service life. When installing a plastic window in a wooden house, pay attention to its cross-section - it must be a galvanized square with a wall of at least 1.2 mm. L-shaped perforated or ferrous metal, especially one of smaller thickness, indicates low quality.
Rubber seals. High-quality seals are made of rubber and have a warranty from the manufacturer for at least 10 years. But if you lubricate the inserts with special silicone at least once a year, the service life will double.
A high-quality PVC profile does not fade in the sun, does not turn yellow and does not emit an odor, but this depends on its composition:

TiO2 – titanium dioxide. An effective white dye, which is practically absent in budget profiles.
Chalk - its permissible level in cheap profiles is limited to 6%, but unscrupulous manufacturers exceed this parameter by 2-3 times. This causes the plastic to burn out, turn yellow, and there is no perfectly smooth surface.

The manufacturer largely determines quality. So, Chinese windows are much cheaper, but they will not last long. In the European Union countries and in Russia, a law has been introduced on laser marker marks, which are applied 30-50 cm from the end side. The date of manufacture and country of origin are displayed there. If such marking is present, then there is no doubt about the quality of PVC, reinforcement and seals - they will comply with GOST and SNiP.

PVC window installation process

Below you will find step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows in a wooden house. This is not difficult, but it will require the presence of certain carpentry tools - I will not write them out separately and you will learn about them as you read.

Removing old windows

I offer special instructions for dismantling old windows from the opening so as not to damage those elements that will remain in use. But this only applies to old houses, where there are already window openings with jambs and they meet your needs - in a new building this point is not relevant.

First of all, you should remove all the glass - to do this, remove the glazing bead and all the nails that did not come out when eliminating this profile. Sometimes the studs are invisible, so to make sure they are present or absent, run a knife or screwdriver at the place where the beads are installed, lightly pressing against the glass. If there is any fastening material left there, then the blade will definitely trip over it, and then, as they say, it’s a matter of technique.

In some cases, in order to seal the windows as much as possible and get rid of drafts, the glass is glued to the frame with silicone or silicone sealant. In such situations, all attempts to pick up the glass with a knife in order to tear it away from the frame are doomed to failure. There is only one way out - to break the glass, but it can fly apart and hurt you. To avoid this, glue wet newspaper onto the glass and break it - all the fragments will fall nearby and will not fly apart.

The frame is supported by nails, which are also very difficult to pull out - it is much easier to cut vertical frame profiles with a hacksaw, as shown in the top photo. After this, use a nail puller to pick up part of the cut vertical and tear it off. Perform a similar operation on the opposite side, and then tear off the cross sections with a nail puller. The opening is ready and you can insert a plastic window.

Window casing in a wooden house

This is how a groove is made for the casing tenon in the embedded block

First of all, you should cut out the window openings and there are two options. If the plastic windows are already ready, then, of course, you will have to focus on their sizes, but this is the exception rather than the rule. Usually, the window (door) openings are cut out first and only after that the window dimensions are taken or a representative of the company where the windows will be made is invited (this is a free service).

Casing into the embedded block (left) and into the deck (right)

First, let's look at the features of installing a casing (plug). Casing into a deck clearly involves cutting a tenon along the verticals of the opening, and making a groove in the box for this tenon, as shown in the image at the top right. But we will focus on the pigtail with the embedded bar - it is more popular.

There are more options with an embedded block. A groove is cut in the opening according to the size of the block (usually 50x50 mm) and the block is driven into it without nailing it, and a distance of 3 cm is left at the top for shrinkage of the house. But sometimes they make a so-called monolith spike, this is when the spike is one piece with the vertical of the casing. In both cases, the logs or beams, when the wall shrinks, will simply slide along the tenon without deforming the window frame.

A jute or felt tape is nailed to both sides of the inserted block with a stapler - this is necessary for sealing and. Now you can screw a rough box to the block, which is most often assembled from a 50x100 mm pine board. In this case, it is best to use wood screws 75 mm long - they are guaranteed not to pass through the block and will not reach the edge of the opening. If this happens, a log or beam may hang on the screw, which will lead to the formation of a gap between the logs.

Now the upper and lower crossbars are inserted, but if at the bottom it is laid between vertical boards, then at the top it is placed on them. The gap left should be 3 cm, which means that the distance from the end of the vertical to the top of the opening is 8 cm, that is, the jumper, having a 5-centimeter thickness, will leave 3 cm of free space after installation. It is best to fasten the boards of the rough box together with metal corners. Now we are talking about installing a plastic window in a wooden house with your own hands, so below you can watch a video about how a window frame is made.

Important! The use of polyurethane foam in this case is unacceptable! The foam will glue the box with the opening, which will prevent the logs from sliding freely along the block during shrinkage.

Video: Window or casing of an opening - protection against building shrinkage

Installation of PVC window sill

PVC window sill

After installing the rough frame (casing), you can begin installing the window sill - this is the first step for assembling a window within the opening. The fact is that the window sill is not adjacent to the transverse profile from the side, but the frame is placed on top - there is a special recess there. But for strength, you should make a 5-8 mm cut on the sides of the box and insert the window sill there - this way it will hold much better. To level the horizontal level, plastic plates are used as stands (mention them when ordering the window if you are installing it yourself).

Self-tapping screws with press washer

The window sill element must be attached to the bottom of the window opening with self-tapping screws, departing 20-25 mm from the edge of the plastic panel, and subsequently the heads will be covered with a frame profile. To prevent the screw head from pushing through the plastic, you need a version with a press washer without a rubber gasket, as in the top photo.

Installation of a plastic window in a wooden house

PVC frames are always covered with a protective film, but according to the installation technology, it is removed only when the window is finally inserted - this protects the plastic from scratches and contamination. To prevent the shutters from opening (this interferes with installation), screw the window handles and place them in the “closed” position (vertically down).

On vertical and horizontal window profiles, holes are drilled on the installation line of the double-glazed window with a diameter 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fastening screw. Most often, the screw is 5 mm, and the hole is made 6 mm. The caps must be recessed into the plastic, so a 10 mm drill is used to make a countersunk to the depth of the metal profile. You need three holes on the sides, and two at the top and bottom, with a distance of 50-60 mm from the corner.

At the bottom, the frame is placed directly on the window sill, but at the top and on the sides there should be a gap of about 10 mm or a little less. Therefore, to screw the frame evenly, use wooden spacers (they are easy to make yourself). When everything is screwed on, check the vertical and horizontal levels, as well as the function of opening and closing the doors, so that there is no distortion.

If the sash closes normally (there is no friction anywhere and there is a tight connection), then close the window and insert double-glazed windows. It is unlikely that it will be possible to press the glazing bead with your hands, therefore, in order for this profile to fit tightly into the seating groove, it is finished off with a rubber hammer. Now all that remains is to blow out the gap between the frame and the rough frame with mounting foam, and you can open the sash the very next day (a precaution against warping the profile). All that remains is to make slopes inside and outside, as well as install platbands, but this is after the final shrinkage of the house.

Conclusion

In fact, installing a plastic window in a wooden house, except for the construction and installation of the casing, is done in the same way as in a brick, block or monolithic building. But attentiveness is needed in any case, so try to remember all your actions and, if necessary, read the article again. You can also print out the installation process on a printer and keep it in your pocket while you work for use as needed.

Plastic double-glazed windows have gained popularity due to their performance qualities. But can they be used in the construction and repair of wooden buildings? Of course, it is possible and necessary.

Installing plastic windows in a wooden house has a lot of differences and features. The process includes a number of preparatory manipulations, primarily related to the fact that the structure tends to sag over time.

We install a PVC window in a private house

The technology features for installing PVC windows in a wooden house of new or old construction are not very different. In any case, experts recommend technology using casing - time-tested, this technology allows you to avoid deformation, regardless of the material from which it is made.

Installing a plastic window in a wooden house or cottage with your own hands will require the performer to have some knowledge and skills. Of course, if there are none, then it is more advisable to turn to specialists. The difficulty of self-installation of PVC systems in a wooden house lies in the fact that the frame is attached using a tongue-and-groove mechanism. This design makes it possible to create operating conditions in which the deformation and subsidence of wood does not directly affect the glass unit.

The system allows you to install a plastic window yourself, so that the window is fixed independently of the main structure of the wall and has a floating character. The window system is secured using grooves on the side, which are placed on tenons protruding from the end of the logs and beams.

To fix and seal the casing, only tow, flax batting or fiber insulation are used. Never use polyurethane foam.

Attention! A gap is left at the top based on the wood's settlement.

Thus, shrinkage of the walls of a wooden building does not in any way affect the window, much less damage it. Depending on the fastenings, casings can be classified into the following types:

into a thorn This design is characterized by the presence of a tenon, which is mounted on the side parts of the casing, and a groove, which is located in the logs of the opening;
in the embedded beam. The basis of the fastening is considered to be a block, which is placed in a groove at the ends of the opening and passes through the casing posts;
into the deck. The tenon is located at the ends of the window opening logs, but the groove is in the casing posts.

The box is a floating mechanism, which prevents deformation of the plastic window during operation, regardless of the type of installation of the casing.

Calculations should be made with high accuracy, since even a minor error can lead to deformation of the window frame or leakage of the structure. In addition, correct installation is the key to the quality of the plastic window itself.

How to make a pigtail (casing)

The design can be of two types: complex and simple. A simple window frame is the system described above, with bars and grooves. The complex design is performed somewhat differently: a ridge is cut out in the window opening, onto which a carriage with grooves is placed. This option is more reliable. When the walls shrink, the ridge can slide and does not allow vertical deviations, eliminating pressure on the window frame.

The casing is usually made of timber. Using a wood chisel, a 0.5 cm groove is knocked out in the center of the beam, and a tenon (0.5x0.5x.25 cm) is cut out from one end. A ridge with 0.5x0.5 cm spikes is cut out from the end of the opening logs. You can use a saw or chisel for this.

Important! Marking the ridge is an important point. The quality and reliability of the design depends on the accuracy of the markings.

After the ridge is ready, we proceed to install the risers and form the structure of the opening between them. The beams are installed level, taking into account the gaps for wall shrinkage (1 cm on the sides and 0.5 cm on top). The frame made of beams is strengthened with the help of grooves with the main fabric of the walls and dowels between them. The gaps left are sealed with tow or other fiber. That's all, now you can start installing the plastic frame directly. You can watch the process in more detail in this video:

Stage No. 3. Installation in the prepared opening

After carrying out the necessary preparatory work and installing the frame, you can begin installing the window.

Attention! Installing plastic windows in a wooden house without casing is the wrong option.

To begin with, we check the dimensions and location of parallels, the gaps between the casing structure and the frame. The margin for foaming should be: 4-5 cm at the top, 2-3 cm in width and height, 3-4 cm in the window sill area. Having made sure that the stock corresponds to these indicators, we proceed directly to installing the plastic frame.

The window is secured using special fasteners, which are sold at any hardware store. They are metal plates with holes.

Installation of a plastic window should be done level. If you neglect this factor, then you risk getting a structure with a slope, which significantly reduces the operational and aesthetic objectives of the window.

Advice! Before installing windows, the sashes are removed. This simplifies the design and makes it much more convenient to install it in the opening.

After the window is secured in the opening, it is necessary to fill the gap with foam. To avoid displacement of the structure during foaming, blocks are placed that will maintain the position of the frame without deviation. After drying, do not forget to remove it.

Fastening the window to the casing is done with care. In this case, it is necessary to choose the correct location for tightening the screws. Under no circumstances should a window be secured in the ridge area!

That's all, we finish the process by completely foaming the opening. We put the sashes on and let the foam dry.

We have presented the correct way to install a plastic window in a wooden house. This process can be difficult, so if you are unsure of your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

However, installing a plastic window yourself is a significant cost savings. We invite you to watch a video tutorial on how to install a window yourself:

When doing DIY repairs, many people are interested in:

“Is it possible to install PVC windows with your own hands?”

“How difficult is it?”

This event can be classified as medium-complex work.

In terms of time, it may take about five hours for a person without experience to replace an average window, including its dismantling.

Permanently practicing employees of specialized companies spend much less time on this.

The upper and side parts from the inside and outside of the room are sealed with slopes. They can be made from a similar material or using a different technology.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

Metering

To order plastic windows, you need to do important things. These are six mandatory indicators: the width and length of the window sill and slope, the width and height of the window.

In order for the measurements to be taken correctly, you need to determine the type of window opening you have - with or without a quarter.

The opening is inspected: it is a quarter if the inside of the window is wider and the outside is narrower. In this case, measurements are carried out at the narrowest point, and at several different points. You need to determine the smallest indicator and add three centimeters to it. This is a measure of width. The height is set as it is.

In the case of a flat opening, without a quarter, the calculation is carried out differently. The height and width are measured, and five cm are subtracted from the first value, and three from the second. This is the height and width of the future window. The side three cm are removed because under the mounting foam, one and a half cm gaps are required on both sides. Five cm of height are distributed as follows: the same one and a half cm on top, and 3.5 cm below will be required for installing the window sill.

The length of the window sill is considered to be five to ten centimeters greater than the width of the opening inside the room. The length of the ebb is also calculated, but from the outside. For some distance they go deeper into the wall. The window sill is measured based on the fact that it should deviate slightly from.

Its width can be different - at the discretion of the owners. More often it ends a little further than the battery. Before ordering, you need to decide what components will be in your window and how many of them there will be: is there a capercaillie, if so, where is it located, the number of sashes, how they open, in what positions. The type of fittings used is also thought out in advance.

Preparation for installation

Removing old windows

When replacing windows with new ones, the old ones must be dismantled. This is not difficult to do, but it will take some effort. Then an inspection of the opening is carried out, during which everything that may later fall off is removed. All protruding parts are removed with a chisel, hammer or even power tools.

All debris generated during the dismantling process must be thoroughly removed, including construction dust. If there are large cavities or potholes, it is advisable to cover them with a solution. The fact is that installation is easier, the smoother the window opening is. If the walls are made of too loose material, they should be treated with special ones.

Choosing a method for installing metal-plastic windows

There are various installation methods: with and without disassembling the window (unpacking).

When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchors are driven into the wall. This method is more complicated, but more reliable.

In another method, metal plates are attached to the outside of the frame, and then they are fixed to the wall with them. This is much faster, but this mount is not the most reliable. The frame may sag or become warped under significant loads, such as strong winds.

If you don’t want to disassemble the window, then for installation it is better to use wide and thick plates used when installing the system. If you install small windows on just such windows, they will stand normally in the absence of strong wind loads.

If your region is characterized by frequent and strong winds that blow mainly through the windows, and the apartment is located on a high floor, then installation with disassembly will be required.

Window installation technology

Let's consider both methods in more detail. After all, it is often the plate mounting method that is required.

It is preferable in buildings built from low load-bearing capacity, when it is necessary to distribute the load from windows over a large surface.

This method is also necessary if the building is constructed using a special “layered” technology: for example, there are layers of concrete behind and in front, between which a layer of insulation is placed.

If you plan to install a window in a soft layer, then it should be secured with plates. It is better to install PVC windows in a panel or cinder block house using anchors.

After installation, only a plastic profile will remain in three planes and in two axes of rotation.

Installation and unpacking

With this method, only the frame is installed in the opening.

First, the window opening and the frame itself are measured to make sure they are compatible. Only after this they begin to work.

The process begins by unpacking the window. Actions are carried out according to the following algorithm:

The window sash is removed

the window is placed in the closed position, its handle points down;
pry it up with a screwdriver and remove the plastic lining from the hinges;
The pin on the top hinge serves as a movable connection; it is located in the center and protrudes slightly. While pressing, you need to push it down slightly so that it comes out at the bottom. Then it is grabbed with pliers (or side cutters) and pulled down;
We hold the sash at the top, turn the handle, opening the lock. The upper part tilts slightly towards itself, the sash rises and is removed from the pin at the bottom.

The double-glazed window is also removable on the wood grouse. It is held in place by glazing beads that can be removed, after which it can be easily removed.

The glazing beads are removed

something strong and narrow is inserted between the frame and the bead, for which it is convenient to use a spatula. Disassembly usually starts from the long side;
The corner of the spatula is inserted into the gap and they begin to carefully move the glazing bead away from the frame, moving along the entire length. The separated glazing bead is removed;
with the short side it is even simpler: the freed edge is pryed up and removed from the groove by turning the spatula. By pulling it up, the glazing bead is removed.

After all the above measures, you can try to remove the double-glazed window. You have to be careful that it doesn't fall out: it's quite heavy.

The glass unit is pulled out

Along the outer perimeter, the freed frame is covered with self-adhesive tape, as recommended by GOST, so that the future window does not dry out;
remove the protective tape;
the prepared frame is inserted into the opening. To position it, you will need mounting wedges, which are placed under the impost and in the corners, as well as in places where it is necessary. They are gradually placed, while the window is aligned in three planes, strictly according to the level. The position of the window is fixed using mounting plates;
Using a drill with a drill of the required size, make mounting holes, retreating 15-18 cm from the top edge for the first of them. At approximately the same distance from the bottom corner there will be a place for the lower fastener. In a standard window, another anchor is placed between them: the distance between adjacent fastenings should not exceed 70 cm;
Having made holes for the fastenings, check the position of the frame in all three planes to see if it has moved. After this, carefully hammer in the anchor, tighten it, but do not overtighten it. The profile must not bend;

Arrangement of low tides on the street side

self-adhesive vapor-permeable insulation is glued to the outside of the frame. Neat grooves are made on the sides of the opening: later the edges of the ebbs will be led into them;
Polyurethane foam is applied to the outer part of the opening, where the ebb rests on the wall. In some cases (with large differences in heights), a lining profile is first installed, to which the ebb is attached. The ebb of the required size is attached with self-tapping screws to the frame under its protrusion;
The tide also foams along the lower edge;
the opening is also foamed. In summer, for better adhesion of the foam, the space between the opening and the frame is sprayed with water;
a heat-insulating, vapor-permeable strip is glued along the contour of the window frame;
all gaps are filled to two-thirds of the volume with foam. If there is a large gap, this must be done in several stages, with an interval of at least ten minutes between applications. After the first layer has dried, it is sprayed with water, then the next one is applied;
until complete polymerization has occurred, the edge of the tape is glued to the window opening. It is important to remember that when using heat-insulating tape, the slopes must be made of plastic. Mortar and plaster do not stick to it;
all parts of the window are assembled;
vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill, in the lower part. Support blocks made of hard wood are also mounted there at a distance of 50 cm. The window sill should have a slight (about 5 degrees) slope into the room;
slopes are sealed last.

Installation without unpacking

All the details and nuances of this work have been listed above. Installation begins with the installation of special mounting plates, which can be linear or U-shaped. They must be thick enough and reliable. They are placed with the same spacing as the anchors: no more than 70 cm between the middle ones, 15-25 cm from the edge.

Further installation using this method is carried out similarly to the process that has already been described in detail, starting with aligning the window in the opening. Only in this case, they do not attach the frame directly, but metal plates, and instead of anchors, self-tapping screws are used. A hole is made with a drill, then the plate is bent, a dowel is placed, the plate is returned to its place, and the dowel is wrapped. Further everything is as in the first option.