How to make forced ventilation in the bathroom. Installing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet with your own hands Ventilation system in the bathroom

The bathroom is a room with high humidity, and condensation often forms in the bathroom due to the high temperature of the water during bathing. To keep the walls, floor and ceiling dry in the room, it is important to ventilate the room well, otherwise mold will begin to develop, and being in the bathroom will not only be unpleasant, but also dangerous. By properly arranging the ventilation system, you can save yourself from the unpleasant consequences of its absence.

Peculiarities

Any room in an apartment or house should not only be suitable for living, but also used comfortably. So, if there are no windows in the living room, then the air there will be stale and stale, which will contribute to the development of pathogenic microorganisms, and the person who lives there will constantly get sick.

It is equally important to ensure that your stay in the toilet and shower is just as comfortable. The bathroom can be either combined or separate, which, in turn, requires different ventilation devices. The hood for the bathroom and toilet must effectively cope with its task, providing intensive air exchange and constant temperature in the room. Ventilation is especially important in conditions where there is a high level of humidity, because constant contact with water spoils any covering of walls, floors or ceilings and causes the appearance of unwanted microorganisms on it, which have a detrimental effect on human health.

In the toilet, an exhaust hood is needed to effectively remove unpleasant odors, which is very important for this room, especially in an apartment. Whatever room we are talking about, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for the existence of a person of any age.

You can take care of the ventilation system yourself or with the help of professionals.

Kinds

Based on the different configurations of rooms in an apartment or house and their dimensions, there are several ventilation options that can be installed in them. The simplest would be natural ventilation, which is installed during the construction of housing, but if desired, it can be done or upgraded later. Such a system helps move air masses, effectively renewing them indoors, without requiring the installation of any electrical equipment.

The principle of its operation is that air ducts leading to the roof are installed on top of the room, hot air in the room rises and enters these secret passages due to temperature differences. This principle is called convection and works quite effectively if the temperature in the room and outside are different.

When creating such a hood, it is necessary to provide for some nuances.

• The air duct must be positioned vertically. Each room in the room must have its own shaft.
• If the rooms are located nearby and have similar specifics in the form of high humidity, large temperature differences and strong odors, then they can be combined by one ventilation shaft.
• The natural type of ventilation at a neutral temperature has little draft, so it is advisable to make air ducts with smooth walls.
• When installing ventilation yourself, it is better to make sure that there are no sharp corners that impede the passage of air and its removal to the outside.
• One-story houses must have wiring near the ceiling, which goes to the attic and leads to the roof.

The air that is removed from the room has a certain tension and circulation, which is called draft force.

There are several ways to check the performance of ventilation.

• Bring a match to the ventilation. If there is movement of the flame, it means that the ventilation is working properly.
• Take a sheet of paper and bring it to the ventilation. If he stays on it, then the traction is good, if he falls, then the air is poorly removed. The indicators will be inaccurate if the indoor and outdoor temperatures are approximately equal.

If natural ventilation does not work effectively, it is advisable to use a reinforced version. Forced ventilation involves the presence of an electrical device in the form of a fan. Ceiling ventilation of this type must be equipped with a suitable device that can cope with a given amount of air mass. For such a device, it is enough to have one channel in the room through which all polluted air will be removed from the room. To calculate the optimal power of the device, you need to multiply the volume of the room, where the length is multiplied by the width and height of the room, by the frequency of use, which varies from 5 to 10, which is dictated by the number of people living in the room and using the bath, toilet or kitchen.

With a minimum number of residents, the coefficient is five, then increases relative to residents of an apartment or house.

Using forced-air fans in the bathroom can be dangerous, because contact of electrical appliances with moisture can cause a short circuit. In order not to risk the performance of the device and the safety of residents, it is necessary to install moisture-resistant fans.

When choosing a fan, it is important to pay attention to various indicators.

• The presence of a humidity sensor, which itself calculates the moment to turn on when the humidity threshold has been overcome. This type of inclusion helps to significantly save on electricity.
• Fans with a timer allow you to set the time for turning on the ventilation, so as not to waste time on this, but to actively use the room under optimal and comfortable conditions.
• With a motion sensor that activates the fan if there is someone in the room.
• A device with a check valve that prevents contaminated air from entering the room from the environment.

Modern devices can be equipped with smart technologies that have many functions and are easy to operate. Smart ventilation allows you to achieve the desired result even for people with disabilities. Exhaust ventilation can have an autonomous version and be located in the bathroom ventilation shaft, in the kitchen window or any other place where it can remove air from the room to the street. The operation of such a device is carried out on batteries, which means there is no risk of short circuit and threat to humans.

Such a portable hood will be a very convenient option for those who smoke, because it will help effectively get rid of tobacco smoke and quickly clean the air in the room.

How it works?

When thinking about installing a fan in the air duct, you need to decide on the need for this device. If the hood does its job, then there is no point in installing additional devices.

To understand how efficiently ventilation works, you can look at the following indicators:

• how much the windows and mirrors in the bathroom sweat during the shower;
• damp background of the room, slow drying process of towels;
• the beginning of the development of fungus in the seams of the tiles, in the corner of the room and on the ceiling.

Mold and mildew not only destroy the finishing of the room, but also negatively affect the health of the residents of the apartment or house.

It’s easy to check whether the ventilation is pulling air out of the room - you can do this by taking a match and observing the movement of the flame. If it does not move, then the duct is clogged and needs to be cleaned. With weak movement, a weak draft can be observed, which indicates the need to install a fan. It is important to carry out such a check in optimal conditions, when cold air blows outside and the house is warm. It is under these conditions that the draft occurs and one can judge the condition of the ventilation shafts. Ventilation must cope with a given amount of air in the room, so it is important to choose sufficiently powerful devices.

When installing a forced fan, you can clearly hear its noise when it is turned on. It hums quite noisily if installed incorrectly, but if everything is done correctly, the sound will be almost inaudible. The noise threshold for a bathroom is considered to be 25 dB. Noise can also arise due to the strong power of the device and the high speed of the blades. When making a choice in favor of a particular product, it is important to pay attention to the power indicators, because they will influence the air exchange rate, and, importantly, the performance of additional functions, such as a timer or motion sensor.

Which is better?

In order to make the right choice and install a suitable fan, it is important to know what exactly you need to pay attention to:

• Availability of certificates and quality assurance. The device must be safe and do its job well.
• Electrical parts of the hood must be placed in a plastic housing that protects them from moisture and steam.
• Optimal power level to quickly remove all the air in the room, renewing it. If the bathroom is shared, then the hood should be more powerful in order to serve two rooms at once.

• Fans of modern technology will like fans with a variety of sensors and timers.
• It is important to correlate the size of the exhaust hole with the dimensions of the fan itself, so that it fits into it, but does not dangle.
• It is better to choose ventilation devices from the assortment of well-known brands that have proven themselves in the market.
• The fan is selected taking into account the noise of the device, which should not exceed 25 decibels.
• Selecting a good device at the best price.

The most favorable fan option would be a device that runs on ball bearings, which makes them quiet and maximizes its service life. The most convenient to use is a fan with a motion and humidity level sensor, which turns on itself at the right moment, which does not require any human intervention and provides the latter with comfortable use of the room.

The presence of a check valve greatly facilitates the maintenance of the room, because no debris, dust or any small particles enter it from the outside, while everything unnecessary, harmful, and foul-smelling is constantly removed.

Self-production

If you need to install a fan in the bathroom with your own hands, the easiest way is to purchase a suitable device for this, place it in the ventilation shaft, connect it to electricity and attach it to the wall. If possible, it is better to buy a fan that is equipped with a humidity sensor, which ensures that it turns on at the right time. The apartment usually has special air ducts in which a mesh is installed for natural ventilation or a fan for forced ventilation. If there is no such design, then you need to do it yourself, making it in a wall opening or in the ceiling. This is relevant for a private house, which was built as a summer cottage and did not imply year-round use.

If the bathroom has a window, this is already an opportunity to ventilate the space, but it is much more effective to add an electrical device to it to quickly pump out air and saturate the room with freshness. In cases where there is no ventilation and not even a window is provided, the shaft outlet will be through the wall of the house along the top, towards the roof. After installing all the structures, you need to check how well the air flows through them, and only after that mount the fan itself. During the work process, something may clog the channel or partially clog it, so it is important to check the permeability of both home-made air ducts and those provided during construction.

The fan is selected based on the existing hole in the wall. If they do not match, then you will have to either expand it or compact it. Installation is done by removing the grille and attaching all the necessary wires. The equipment can be secured with self-tapping screws or liquid nails. When everything is ready, you need to install the grille in place and seal the joint between the fan and the wall with sealant.

By correctly installing the fan, you can make your stay in the bathroom comfortable and enjoyable, ensuring the safety of all coverings for humans and extending their service life.

Materials and components

Ventilation for the bathroom and toilet may be ready-made and located in the wall, or it may not be present, in which case you need to install it yourself. The choice of materials in this case plays a big role. Air ducts can have a different appearance, be round or straight. The main material for their manufacture is steel; it can have different thicknesses depending on the temperature of the air and how much it moves.

The main parts are pipelines for air passage, but besides them, it is also important to use shaped parts, thanks to which turns and bends of structures are formed. For areas where the ventilation shaft runs from the outside, you can use copper, textile and plastic parts, which will not only have a high quality factor, but also a decorative effect.

To attach the air channels, you can use a flange, bandage, socket or coupling. Having drawn up a plan for future ventilation and decided on the type of fastening and future materials, you can begin to work. The next important step will be the selection of the fan itself and its components.

Each ventilation system designed to purify the air must have a filter, which can have several types:

• dry porous;
• porous wetted;
• electric.

The choice of one option or another is dictated by the amount of dust that the ventilation systems must catch and retain.

Another component is a silencer, which allows you to make the fan operation less noticeable and loud. They are usually made of tin in the form of two cylinders, which are separated by an absorbent material. In some cases, it is advisable to install dampers that allow air to flow when opened and stop when closed.

The bathroom or toilet fan itself can be of four types.

• Axial. Used in apartments and houses, it is highly effective with relatively simple installation.
• Centrifugal. They are used at large industrial facilities, because the ventilation capacity of this device is very powerful and can process a huge air flow, using the same energy resource.

• Duct. Installed in the air duct itself. These devices have a humidity and shutdown sensor. Most often, the device is placed in a plastic case, which makes it possible to use it in a sauna or swimming pool.
• Domestic. Serves for servicing kitchens or bathrooms in apartments. For such rooms, it is recommended to choose a device equipped with a check valve, which will prevent air from the toilet or kitchen from entering other rooms.

Based on the room, its dimensions and the preparation of the ventilation shaft, you can choose the right fan, and, if necessary, make an air duct.

Installation process

To install the fan, you must follow certain instructions. Often, the fan packaging itself already contains some recommendations on how to install it correctly. However, before you can install anything, you need to check the functionality of the ventilation shaft, whether it copes well with air intake and whether it fully removes it from the room. If any airflow problems are detected, the ducts must be thoroughly inspected and cleaned.

To install the fan, first of all you need to remove the decorative grille, and then try the fan on a specific air duct. It is important to fix the device in the hole with sealant or special glue, but the most reliable option is to use self-tapping screws. Once the main fastening has been done, it is important to ensure that there are no minor imperfections left. Once everything is finished, you can put the grille in place and check the functionality of the device.

If there is no ventilation shaft in the room, then it must be organized at a height of at least two meters. It is advisable to place the outlet opposite the doors or diagonally from them. This will help create the necessary air flow for active ventilation of the space. The fan performance can be selected as desired. It can turn on automatically if it has the appropriate devices, or you can activate it by turning on the switch of the fan itself or combined with the light in the bathroom.

The choice of fan must be justified so that its power is sufficient for the bathroom, and the design of the grille is selected based on the appearance of the space in order to emphasize its style and complement it if necessary. By installing such a device, you can extend the safety of all coatings in the bathroom and ensure comfortable and safe use of both the bathtub and the toilet.

If the fan is installed correctly, then there should be no problems with its operation, and it will effectively cope with the amount of air intended for it in the room. However, if errors were made during the installation process or the work was carried out by an unqualified craftsman without due attention, then the first problems may appear very soon.

Before installing the fan in the shaft, it is important to check the draft in it. If there is none or it is weak, it is advisable to clean the entire system, otherwise the problem will only worsen over time, and to clean the passages it will be necessary to dismantle the fan. When checking the draft, it is important to do two tests at once - one with the doors and windows open, the second with them closed, in order to cut off access to the source of fresh air.

A combined bathroom with toilet requires a more powerful device, so it is important to correctly calculate the power of the device when choosing it. Knowing the area of ​​the entire bathroom, you can decide on the type of fan. Often, more powerful units are larger in size, because they need to pump many times larger volumes of air. When choosing the size of the fan, it is important to know in advance the size of the hole in the ventilation shaft so that you do not have to widen it or put something in place to fix it.

If over time, problems begin to appear when turning on the fan and the device does not work, you need to check the wires and the switch, if it is the starting element. When installing the fan, it is advisable to securely fasten all the cables so that they do not unwind over time, because during operation there is a slight vibration of the surface that can affect them, so over time the contacts will loosen and move away.

Correct height and location can ensure optimal fan performance, and cleaned airways will allow air to freely pass from the room outside and replace it with fresh and clean air.

When choosing a fan, it is important to pay attention to many details. If the installation location is a bathroom, then the humidity level in it will be quite high, so you need to look for markings with the letters IP, which indicate additional protection of the housing from moisture and are ready for moist air masses that will pass through it.

As for power, it is recommended not to take devices with parameters less than 100 m3/h. To save energy, the most relevant models will be those equipped with a motion sensor, which turns on the device the moment someone appears in the bathroom or toilet and turns it off when the object disappears. If you want to use the fan only when necessary, then it is better to choose a device with a room humidity sensor, then the fan will start working as soon as the standard level is exceeded and stop when the air is fresh and clean.

If you want to take a shower in a well-ventilated room, you can set a timer to automatically turn on the fan, which will turn itself off at a predetermined time by the owner. When choosing a fan for high-rise buildings, it is very important to check for a check valve that will block other people's garbage and dirty air, preventing it from entering the apartment.

Only careful selection of the device can ensure comfortable living in an apartment or house and the use of the bathroom and toilet in compliance with all standards of humidity, air purity and the complete absence of harmful factors that appear when such standards are not observed.

For the secrets of installing a hood in the bathroom and toilet, see below.

Forced ventilation: DIY

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: ​​the influx of fresh air through living rooms and its outflow from technical rooms. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it correctly.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and resulting pressure differences. When using mechanical ventilation, air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of a city person, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. That’s probably why they mainly strive to make systems non-volatile or, at least, redundant.

But natural ventilation in the toilet and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the larger the cross-section of the air duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster.

• with a forced channel with dimensions of 160 * 200 mm or a diameter of 200 mm;
• with natural circulation, a channel with dimensions of 250 * 400 mm or a pipe with a diameter of 350 mm.

One of the schemes for organizing ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house

Therefore, few people today make do with natural ventilation. Perhaps in small houses (up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with ducts leading to the roof, ventilation of bathrooms and toilets is done using fans.

To decide which fan to install on the bathtub with toilet, you need to calculate the required air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to get involved in calculations, its performance can only be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rates for different rooms. With their help, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is calculated

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or combined bathroom the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - kitchen, toilet, bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The air intake is calculated based on the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times and the minimum values ​​indicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of fans is taken with at least a double reserve, and for kitchens even more: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going for a bathroom fan with a capacity less than 100 m 3 /h, it is better not to buy it.

First of all, you need to decide where you will install the fan: in a duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions there can also be two types: for installation at the entrance of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street.

Duct fans are installed inside a box or pipe. Is it round or square, respectively?

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It’s good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

These are wall mounted fans

To maintain human health, it is not enough to monitor the quality of food and liquid consumed. Much attention should also be paid to the air in our premises. Unfortunately, few people think about the fact that it is no less important than good food and water.

The environmental situation that develops in polluted large cities does not allow their residents to simply ventilate their premises. The most acceptable solution to this problem is to install ventilation. The influx of clean air will reduce the likelihood of headaches, dizziness, drowsiness, and will also help prevent allergies.

Air exchange in private cottages and apartment buildings is carried out according to different schemes. In small residential buildings, separate ventilation ducts lead to the roof from the kitchen, toilet and bathroom. Another scheme is designed in houses. Here the air is collected in one common channel, discharged to the roof. If the house has forced ventilation, then builders install special systems equipped with sensitive elements. Such equipment closes or opens the dampers when it becomes necessary.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom can be done with your own hands. Moreover, the work is not particularly difficult. First of all, you should check the air outlet duct and clean it, if necessary, of debris. For those who cannot install a new fan, another option is recommended. You can simply remove a few meters of a new one from the old channel by purchasing the appropriate materials at a hardware store.

When installing an electric fan, you should decide on the best place to install it. Ideally, this should be the wall opposite the door.

The fan is installed directly into the exhaust duct opening. If your device has a larger diameter, the hole will have to be expanded slightly. After this, all electrical wires must be carefully connected. However, they should be placed in a dry place (so that they are not visible). At the next stage of work, the device is connected to the switch and secured together with the grille using self-tapping screws or liquid nails.

As a rule, the channel through which ventilation is carried out is located in the toilet. The scheme for organizing air exchange between this room and the bathroom can be implemented in two ways. The first of them involves laying a separate ventilation pipe. It should be located in the ceiling space and go from the bathroom to the air outlet duct. The second option involves installing two separate fans.

One of them should be located on the air duct, and the second should be in the wall between the toilet and the bathroom.

Most often, ventilation in a “Stalin” bathroom is arranged according to the first option. The adoption of such a decision is facilitated by the height of the ceilings in such apartments, which is 3-3.5 m. Forced ventilation in the bathroom is carried out by laying an additional air duct. This structure is attached to the very ceiling and covered with plasterboard. In this case, ventilation into the bathroom is carried out using a flexible, rigid or semi-rigid air duct.

High-quality air exchange is important not only in the bathroom. Normal air circulation is also necessary in the toilet. It will allow you not to feel discomfort from the operation of the sewer system and will prevent the appearance of fungus by reducing the humidity in the room. Often artificial ventilation is required in the toilet of a private house.

How to make ventilation in the toilet (forced type)? To do this, you need to study the design of the existing air duct. Sometimes it may have access directly to the toilet. But often ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is carried out from one box located in the bathroom. In this case, between these two rooms there should be an opening covered with a grill.

In the first case, it is possible to install the fan directly on the box. The second option for the exhaust circuit will require the installation of an additional air duct.

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If mold appears in the bathroom, it means that the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is not working properly or the existing system is not enough. Steam from hot water in the bathroom rises to the ceiling, where condensation forms. Condensation also accumulates on the walls. Over time, mold grows in patches in these areas. Cosmetic repairs in this case will solve the problem, but soon it will appear again. We need to organize an effective ventilation system in the bathroom.

If there is no ventilation shaft in the room, then it must be organized at a height of at least two meters. It is advisable to place the outlet opposite the doors or diagonally from them. This will help create the necessary air flow for active ventilation of the space. The fan performance can be selected as desired. It can turn on automatically if it has the appropriate devices, or you can activate it by turning on the switch of the fan itself or combined with the light in the bathroom.

The choice of fan must be justified so that its power is sufficient for the bathroom, and the design of the grille is selected based on the appearance of the space in order to emphasize its style and complement it if necessary. By installing such a device, you can extend the safety of all coatings in the bathroom and ensure comfortable and safe use of both the bathtub and the toilet.

Features of bathroom ventilation in a private house

During the construction of residential buildings, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is usually installed natural. However, it is clearly not enough to constantly ensure a normal level of freshness and cleanliness of the air in these rooms. So, when taking a shower, the bathroom is immediately filled with steam.

Mold spores in the air of a bathroom can settle in a person’s lungs and cause the development of diseases such as allergies, asthma, etc. In addition, black spots gradually destroy finishing materials, reaching the concrete itself. That is why everyone needs to install a properly functioning ventilation system in their home.

The system is necessary not only for the supply of clean air. Thanks to it, the optimal temperature is achieved, as well as the level of humidity and oxygen. In a small room without the possibility of ventilation, musty and specific air accumulates. A toilet freshener won't help. It hides odors rather than eliminating them.

Ventilation

The air enters the bathroom and toilet from other rooms. For ventilation, leave a small gap (2-2.5 cm) between the floor and the door leaf or purchase special doors whose leaf has round ventilation holes. Air escapes through an open ventilation duct. If the doors are solid, and a very responsible installer did not leave even a single crack, the bathroom will have to be left open for ventilation.

A well-designed ventilation system is an integral part of a bathroom or toilet.

This system is as simple as possible, but unreliable. In modern houses and cottages, ventilation is increasingly failing. Complicating the work:

• Sealed doors and plastic windows;
• Reducing the lumen of the canal as a result of contamination with dust, dirt, cobwebs;
• Incorrectly designed hood;
• Windy weather;
• An uninsulated channel, inside which the air quickly cools and slowly rises.

If the device removes 100 m3 of air per hour, at least the same amount must be supplied, which is impossible with hermetically sealed doors.

Organization rules

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, and insulate the walls through which air flows at least a little with airtight materials. The third source - entrance doors - today almost all of them are made of iron, with a rubber seal.

In order for the grilles to provide adequate ventilation for the bathroom and eliminate high humidity, it is worthwhile to approach the selection of these products with particular care and responsibility. The further ventilation system in the bathroom and toilet depends on how these products are selected.

• the presence of lamellas - each grille must have lamellas, through which the main air ventilation occurs. They should be located over the entire area of ​​the grille;
• shape - the shape of these products can be different - rectangular, round, square. You can choose the shape as you wish, the main thing is that the product fits harmoniously;
• material - it is advisable to choose gratings made of durable plastic. These products perform their functions, but at the same time retain their original qualities for a long time;
• color - this element can be any color, but it is desirable that it matches the door. After all, it won’t be very nice when the door is white and the grille is black or blue.

Arrangement of ventilation in the bathroom of a private house or apartment is a rather complex process that requires compliance with all the nuances. After all, ventilation systems prevent the formation of high humidity and condensation, which often leads to the formation of fungus and mold.

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical rooms. From there it goes through the ventilation ducts.

If you want the ventilation to be normal and the walls in the rooms not to get wet, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable dampers, of different shapes and sizes, and are covered with bars on the outside. It is best to install under windows, above or behind radiators. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, it is necessary to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: air will flow through them to other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and/or also make a gap at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only when there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

Functionality check

Arrangement of ventilation is a rather complex and responsible matter, during which it is worth taking into account all the important nuances. Any deviation from the standards may cause serious disruptions in the further operation of this system. Therefore, many experts recommend, before making ventilation in the bathroom, to consider the features of the design principle of this system. In these cases, it is worth considering several important features:

• in residential buildings with a small number of floors, ventilation is provided by separate ducts for each room - for bathrooms, toilets, kitchens;
• in residential buildings with more than 5 floors, exhaust hoods from bathrooms, toilets, and kitchens are combined into one ventilation duct. In this case, this channel is brought out to the roof area, and all hoods are connected to it floor by floor using an air seal;
• All air movement in ventilated systems is carried out using natural draft, which occurs when the temperature conditions of the air inside the room and the outside air change.

Exhaust ventilation system diagram for a multi-storey building

It also happens that natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet works quite normally. That is why before installing a new system it is necessary to check the serviceability of the existing one. This is not difficult to do. In addition, no additional tools are needed for this. It is enough to hold a piece of paper directly to the ventilation grille.

The leaf should stick to it under the influence of moving air. If this does not happen, then we can say that the hood is not working. Sometimes the cause of this condition may be a door to the bathroom or toilet that is too tight. In this case, the required volume of air flow into the bathroom is not ensured.

The toilet and bathroom in apartments, even with a divided wall, have one air outlet that goes into the shaft. In private houses, a different ventilation system may be provided. This is especially true if it has several floors. In simple houses, the room may have a window for ventilation.

The shaft type is installed in cottages. Functional testing is carried out through technological air holes. The presence of draft is analyzed by holding a lighter or a sheet of paper to the grate. The fire should go out or turn towards the ventilated window, and the leaf should be attracted to the hole. If this does not happen, then the system is malfunctioning.

Ventilation may not always work as required, and there can be plenty of reasons for this. Therefore, before you start arranging ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, it is worth considering all the important nuances, including the reasons for poor ventilation draft.

What reasons may cause poor ventilation:

• sometimes ventilation problems can occur due to errors in calculations in the cross-section of ventilation ducts;
• various errors when installing the ventilation system;
• Often, the pull can be caused by a build-up of debris, as well as other falling elements. The presence of all these elements can cause difficulties in the flow of air into the room;
• Another reason for poor ventilation performance can be renovation work at neighbors’ homes that affects the ventilation systems.

Do you know why natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet sharply deteriorates? There are several of them.

1. For example, this happens if the doors in the bathroom have been changed and air cannot penetrate from below.
2. Another reason is the renovation of neighbors above, as a result of which the shaft accidentally becomes clogged.
3. Finally, a bird could get there and then die.
4. It happens that after neighbors install forced ventilation, a reverse flow of air passes into another apartment, or prevents circulation at all.
5. Another reason is hidden in the time of year. So, in the summer, when it is very hot, hot air from outside prevents cold masses from leaving the premises. As a result, a plug of air is formed. Therefore, the door should be left slightly open.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Connecting a bathroom fan

To operate the fan, you need a power supply and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

• Connect in parallel with turning on the lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. This situation is normal for a toilet, but not always for a bathroom. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different method of connecting the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set a time interval after which the power will turn off).

• Display it on a separate switch key or install a separate toggle switch/button.
• Set a timer that will automatically supply power according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the most difficult. You will have to punch a groove in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, lead it to the installation location of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.

You can read how to make a shower stall with a tile tray in this article.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the duct. To do this, remove the grille, if it is not already dismantled, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is steadily pulled towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it either stretches or bends back, the traction is unstable.

If the flame or leaf hardly deviates, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as an unpleasant odor, are guaranteed throughout the entire apartment, and in the bathroom, this is a must.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private houses, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have brought it out without taking into account the wind rose and the draft periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but this is not easy. To begin with, you can try installing a deflector (if you don’t have one) or slightly increasing/decreasing the height.

When installing a fan while it is running, the amount of air exhausted increases significantly. But due to the fact that the housing blocks part of the channel cross-section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system decreases.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the housing and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the gap and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more details.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

• You need to make a hole on the tile for the housing. The easiest way is to put a fan and outline it. Then use a special attachment on a drill or grinder to cut a hole of the appropriate size.
• Remove the front panel from the fan. It is secured with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed and the grille was removed. The holes for the fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the duct), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the places where the bolts will be.
• Using a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to match the size of the dowel.
• We make a cut in the tile where we will pass the power supply wire.
• Insert the dowels.
• We pull the electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
• Place it in place and tighten the bolts.
• We connect the wires.
• We check the functionality and install the grille.
• Read about choosing a fan and calculating its performance here. For wooden toilets, all this is only partly true. Read about how to get rid of odors in an outdoor toilet here.

  Ventilation in a bathroom in a private house

  Here the main difficulties may arise when installing exhaust ducts. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought out onto the roof. This is more difficult from the point of view of internal wiring - you will have to pull the air ducts to the right place, and is also more expensive during construction. But the appearance is solid.

  
  

  Another way to install ventilation ducts is to take it out through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they must rise 50 cm above the ridge. But you will have one common air duct or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

  

  There is another option: make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options shown in the photo is suitable.

  

  In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made directly at the top of the wall (for air exchange to be effective, it should be located opposite the door, diagonally, at the top). With this device, a regular wall fan is used. The same figure shows how you can reduce the number of required channels. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are located next to each other, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grille. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

  In the second option (pictured on the right) an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, but there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the wood will turn black after some time. If you conclude this from the toilet, this may not happen, but in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “reach out” the air duct to the edge of the roof or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet, where there is always a high level of humidity, which provokes the appearance of mold, must be sufficiently effective. If in modern and older multi-storey buildings, such as Khrushchev, its presence is provided for by the standard design, then in a private house the owner himself has to think about it at the beginning of construction. Without having certain knowledge and not understanding the intricacies of installation work, it is difficult to install it yourself without errors, but by adopting the existing rules, this will become possible.

Operating principle of air exchange systems

Even at the design stage of a private house, you should adhere to the standards for the installation and operation of ventilation ducts, according to which:

• The air supply should be located at the bottom, and the exhaust at the top, as close to the ceiling as possible. To ensure ventilation of the entire room, they are placed in opposite corners.
• Their internal surface is made as smooth as possible, and the direction of air movement is in a straight line.
• When making turns, avoid sharp bends.
• The fan should not be placed near water, near a bathtub, sink, or toilet.
• Separate air ducts are laid for different floors.

All ventilation systems are divided according to the principle of operation - with natural draft and mechanical impulse. If the bathroom is of modest size and its services are used by a small number of residents, then the first type of ventilation is installed, in other cases - the second.

The natural system works due to the difference in the density of air masses and temperature, when heated and lighter air, rushing upward, passes through the exhaust ducts and ends up outside. At the same time, it is replaced by denser cold air entering the room through the supply air duct system. The greater the difference in values, the higher the potential and the better the traction.

This scheme works well in winter, but with the onset of warm days the temperature difference becomes minimal and its effectiveness decreases. Forced ventilation does not have these disadvantages, since a fan is installed in the system, which is responsible for moving air masses.

Ventilation device in a private house

Previously, normal air exchange in an apartment was ensured by natural cracks in wooden windows, along the door opening, and if a private house was made of timber, then also by inter-crown voids. But today, in the construction of housing, modern energy-saving technologies are widely used, reducing heating costs and at the same time preventing free air circulation.

Therefore, many owners leave the door ajar and use the micro-ventilation function in plastic windows, which requires the presence of a small gap. Once inside, fresh street air is warmed up and removed through the fireplace pipe, stove heating or existing ventilation ducts. But this scheme is not without its drawbacks - dust, midges enter the house, noise penetrates, and in winter there is frosty air, which provokes drafts.

As a modern and affordable solution, many homeowners choose to install a vent vent. The advantages of using it are obvious:

• ensuring the necessary air exchange;
• installation is easy to do with your own hands;
• crashes directly into the wall in a convenient place.

Depending on the type and equipment of the water or electric air heating system, the device provides comfortable living conditions at any time of the year.

But a full-fledged system will consist of several elements, such as:

1. 1. Ventilation duct. It is a round or square shaft leading to the roof of the house. To ensure that nothing interferes with the air flow, it is made as straight as possible. A horizontal insert is allowed, but not longer than 1–2 m.
2. 2. Ventilation outlet - a hole in the wall connected to a duct. To receive large volumes of air, it is made of sufficient size, no smaller than the central air duct.
3. 3. Ventilation grille. Made of plastic or metal, it serves as a decoration and, covering the exit, prevents the penetration of water and debris into it.

Purpose and types of construction

Considering the characteristics of the system, several types are distinguished:

• Exhaust. The air is removed through a special exhaust channel.
• Supply. Air is supplied to the room under excess pressure, as a result of which the exhaust flows are removed outside through the shaft.
• Mixed. This system combines the above types of ventilation and is the most effective.

In addition, taking into account the characteristics of the structural elements, they are divided into channel and non-channel. In the first case, air is supplied through special ducts. This type of ventilation is used if the air flow needs to be directed to remote areas and simultaneously cleaned of condensation, dust, and other pollutants.

Ductless. In this case, the air flow moves through air ducts built inside the walls and is supplied (discharged) to the bathroom through an opening, usually covered with a decorative grille. This device is typical for typical multi-storey buildings, in which there is a ventilated window between the bathroom and the toilet, and in one of the rooms there is an exit to the central ventilation duct.

By installing a fan, you can combine forced and natural systems and get the best option - a mixed type of ventilation. If the channel is located far away, then rectangular, round or corrugated boxes are thrown towards it. The walls of products made of plastic are absolutely smooth and do not interfere with air movement, and they also dampen noise waves caused by the operation of the fan. Soft corrugated sections are well suited for getting around difficult obstacles.

In order for the hood to effectively cope with its purpose, installation is carried out adhering to the following rules:

• the wall opposite to the front door is chosen as its installation location;
• the fan is recessed into the shaft, securely fastened, and all cracks are filled with sealant;
• Electrical wiring is kept closed for safety reasons.

The fan control in the bathroom is connected directly to the light switch, then odors will be removed immediately, but in the bathroom it is preferable to have a separate switch.

Often suspended, tension structures are mounted on the ceiling in the bathroom. If the shaft is located below their level, then to ventilate the space between the ceilings, a grille is installed near the ventilation hole. If the shaft is higher than the suspended ceiling, then several ventilation holes are made in the latter and a fan is installed in one of them, and the rest are covered with grilles.

Natural ventilation

A device of this type must be planned at the stage of preparation for the construction of a house or cottage, when drawing up a project that specifies the location of all rooms and office premises. The main reason is proper installation, when even during the construction of walls it is necessary to lay special ventilation ducts through their internal structure. Usually they start from the first floor towards the attic. Ventilation ducts can be made of brick, a specially shaped plastic material.

When planning the installation of a natural ventilation system, you should adhere to several recommendations:

• each room must be equipped with air ducts, the installation of which is carried out vertically;
• if a bathroom with a toilet is located on the same floor, moreover, nearby, then the use of combined hoods is allowed;
• when several service rooms are located close to each other, you can combine their air ducts into one common one without reducing its outlet diameter;
• The walls of the box must be smooth, and there should be no obstacles in the path of the air flow.

The presence of natural ventilation, which provides comfortable living conditions, is mandatory for every private house and other buildings. In the future, the system can be upgraded by additionally installing a fan, thereby increasing its efficiency.

Forced ventilation

A modern forced ventilation system consists of a heat exchanger, filters, and fans. Therefore, the air coming from the street is first purified, and in cold weather it is preheated, and only then distributed among the rooms, displacing the exhaust air outside.

The system includes the following components:

• A fan that provides movement of air masses.
• Air ducts. They are made from pipes 0.5, 1 and 2 meters long and are used to move air flows.
• Connecting couplings. With their help, individual sections are assembled into a single whole.
• Rotary bends. Redirect the flow in the desired direction.
• Check valve. Prevents the return of exhaust air.
• Brackets, fasteners. Installed on the walls and ceiling, they support the entire structure.

To organize an effective exhaust hood in a bathroom or toilet, there are enough fans, for which the main requirement is that the noise level should not exceed 35 dB. Devices on bearings have a longer service life, while devices on bushings are quieter in operation and more affordable.

Axial fans have an average noise level and are well suited for installation in a ductless system. The centrifugal device is louder than the others, but has high performance. Paying attention to the listed characteristics, products of the centrifugal-axial type, characterized by low weight, noiselessness and high efficiency, look more attractive.

Several types of connection are common - to a light switch, a separate switch, which is located near the device on the wall (or on its body), using a motion sensor. The latter is triggered when someone enters the room.

Using a filtration system improves the quality of incoming air, but it requires constant maintenance and increases operating costs. The filter must be periodically checked for contamination and replaced, as accumulated substances can cause the growth of dangerous bacteria and organisms.

For this reason, it is recommended to install air humidity sensors on forced ventilation, especially in the bathroom. Then the mechanism will be triggered when the specified parameter is reached.

If the installation of forced ventilation is planned only in the bathroom, and the remaining rooms are simply to be ventilated, then for these purposes it is advisable to install a ductless system with a fan inserted into it. It is fixed to special mounting terminals and connected to the power supply using a two-core wire.

The installation of forced ventilation throughout the house requires the purchase of special equipment - a special unit responsible for supplying, removing, cleaning, filtering and heating air. The installation location is chosen in the attic or technical room. Power is calculated by the number of residents based on the size of the house and the material of the walls, but on average this figure is 200-600 m3/h.

Air ducts are assembled using the designer method, using ready-made sections and adapters. Whenever possible, they are hidden from view behind suspended, suspended ceilings, or taken out into the attic. If everything is assembled correctly, then properly functioning ventilation will ensure good air exchange not only in the bathroom, toilet, but throughout the entire house, and, by maintaining the required level of humidity, will reduce the likelihood of mold and mildew appearing on the walls.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom is actually a serious question. It does not arise for residents of city apartments, because in an apartment building natural ventilation is already installed in the bathroom. But in many private houses built 30-50 years ago, this problem is acute. Because in those days, few people cared about ventilation in general, and even more so in the bathroom.

The importance of ventilation in the bathroom

Ventilation in the bathroom is a system based on water supply and sewerage. That is, it is also important. After all, this room belongs to the category of damp; the humidity here is often almost one hundred percent. And this is condensation, which negatively affects the condition of surfaces, plumbing and furniture. This means that humidity must be understood. Which way? Ventilation only.

Gaps and leaks in doors and windows solve this problem ineffectively. Leaks on the walls and drops on the ceiling, a foggy mirror, wet towels are not the only negative factors of the lack of a ventilation system. Humidity is the cause of mold and mildew, which in turn will negatively affect the health of home occupants. The appearance of a musty smell is also the reason for the lack of a hood.

Therefore, ventilation in the bathroom must be equipped, even if the house has already been built and is in use. At the same time, it is necessary to install a better forced system in the rooms with maximum outflow of moist air. Today, a combination of two systems is increasingly used, when the fan is turned on while the bathroom is in use, and natural ventilation functions when the room is idle.

Norms and requirements

In principle, the main requirement for a bathroom is an air exchange rate of 25 m³/hour. This does not depend on what size it is. And if in other service rooms (except for the toilet and kitchen) the air mass exchange rate is taken, then a standard value is required here. It is under this that ventilation in the bathroom is installed.

It is important to adhere to one strict requirement - the volume of supply air must be the same or greater than the exhaust air.

Types of ventilation in the bathroom

As in other rooms of the house, in the bathroom you can use either natural or forced ventilation.

Natural

When arranging natural ventilation in the bathroom, it is necessary to strictly take into account air exchange standards. After all, in such a system there are no devices and devices that forcibly (forcefully) removed exhaust air. Therefore, it is important to choose the correct cross-section of the ventilation duct that is installed in this room.

For example, a square shaft with sides equal to 10 cm, or a round pipe with a diameter of 150 mm, passes through 30 m³/hour. That is, an installed ventilation shaft with such dimensional parameters will be sufficient to provide the required air exchange. But, as mentioned in the previous section, another important component of air flow is the flow of air into the room. That’s why it needs to be organized.

For example, they do this.

1. They leave a gap between the door leaf and the floor, through which the air flow penetrates into the bathroom. In this case, the air flow is organized through the living spaces.
2. Make holes in the bottom of the door.
3. Make a through hole in the wall closer to the floor, where an air supply valve is inserted.

The first option is used most often.

Forced

This option is considered optimal because it becomes possible to create all the conditions for the most effective air outflow. To do this, you will have to correctly calculate the fan performance. In principle, it should be no less than the air exchange, that is, no less than 25 m³/hour.

From the wide variety of fans on offer, choose the one that you think is more suitable for the bathroom. Namely, does it match the design with the decoration. And will it fit in the size of the ventilation duct hole?

This last requirement requires clarification.

1. If it is a wall fan, then it should cover the hole in the wall or flow, but the blades of the device itself should not be much larger than the diameter of the hole.
2. If this is a channel instance, then it just needs to fit tightly into the channel.

In some cases, you have to widen the hole to install the device. This requires certain sacrifices if, for example, ceramic tiles have already been laid. It will have to be dismantled or cut around the hole. But in any case, with the help of a fan the exhaust system will work better.

How to understand that the ventilation system needs to be improved

The first sign is the appearance of mold in the corners of the room. This indicates that the humidity is high and constant. That is, ventilation does not have time to remove air outside the room. So it settles in the corners. And heat creates additional conditions for the appearance of microorganisms.

How to improve ventilation in the bathroom

Everything will depend on what is causing the poor ventilation. If a natural system is used in the bathroom, then there are two reasons:

1. Insufficient air flow. It can be increased by increasing the gap between the floor and the door leaf.
2. The ventilation shaft is clogged. This is a more serious problem that requires a serious approach to solving it. The canal must be cleaned, which is not always possible with an independent approach. If this is ventilation in a private house in which a regular riser is installed through the ceilings and roof, then you can try lowering the load from above so that it pushes the debris inside. And get the last one from inside the room.

If a forced-air system is used in the bathroom, then you need to check whether the installed fan is suitable for its performance. It may also be that he simply cannot cope with air exchange.

These are three reasons that need to be addressed to improve the ventilation in the bathroom.

How to make ventilation in the bathroom with your own hands

In principle, ventilation in the bathroom is not a problem. The main thing is to set a goal for yourself - it will be natural or forced.

Natural

To do this, you need to make a hole in the wall for a pipe with a diameter of 110-150 mm. It is done under the ceiling in the wall that separates the room from the street. An air valve is inserted into this hole, which is closed on both sides with decorative grilles. It is better to choose a valve with a regulator in the form of a handle and a valve, with which you can close the hole and open it or leave a small gap.

Forced

Instead of a valve, a fan must be installed in the same hole made in the wall.

• If this is a wall-mounted model, then you need to insert a plastic pipe into the wall, which is covered with a grill on the outside.
• If this is a duct version, then the device itself is installed in the wall and covered on both sides with grilles.

The most difficult thing in this matter is to make a through hole, which requires a hammer drill and a diamond bit of the required diameter. Installing and securing the fan is simple. The wall-mounted one is attached to the wall with four self-tapping screws on plastic dowels, the channel one is simply inserted into the hole without any fasteners. If necessary, the gap between the device and the wall is filled with polyurethane foam.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 3 minutes

Proper air exchange in a room plays no less a role in ensuring comfort than temperature and light. If the air stagnates, an unfavorable microclimate will be created in the room: the person will feel stuffy, dampness and odors will accumulate, and the oxygen content will decrease. These shortcomings are especially noticeable in small and damp rooms, so ventilation in the bathroom must be good. How to achieve this?

Different countries have their own SNiPs. They also specify the requirements for room ventilation. In accordance with these documents, an air flow of 25 cubic meters is considered the norm for a separate bathroom. m/h, for a combined bathroom with toilet - 2 times more. However, ventilation ducts in houses do not always cope with this task. If the room is constantly damp and there is no air exchange, then most likely you will need to install forced ventilation.

Types of ventilation

There are 2 main types of ventilation: natural and artificial. In the first case, air exchange occurs due to the difference in pressure indoors and outdoors. Natural ventilation is provided by windows, vents, doors, and various cracks. That is, no devices are used for air circulation.

Forced (or artificial) ventilation in the bathroom is provided through the operation of a special device that sets air flows in motion. The principle of its operation is simple: the fan draws air outside, and air enters the room from the street or from other rooms.

The following types are distinguished by purpose:

• exhaust ventilation, i.e. removing polluted air;
• supply, aimed at supplying additional volumes of air from outside;
• mixed, i.e., performing the functions of both types mentioned above.

How to check if ventilation is working

In old houses, the operation of ventilation shafts is often disrupted: over time, they become clogged and cease to perform their functions. Therefore, first you need. If it is clogged with something, the effectiveness of not only natural, but also forced ventilation will decrease.

You can conduct another test, it is also very simple and indicative:

• also open the windows and doors;
• light a candle and bring it to the mine exit;
• if the light tilts towards the hole, then there is a draft; if it burns without moving, then the air stands still.

Then the experiments should be repeated with closed windows and doors. If in this case the light deviates or the leaf sticks to the hole, then the draft is good and strong. In this case, there is unlikely to be a need to install forced ventilation. If there is no draft, it will not hurt to install an additional fan.

The main reason for the lack of traction is a clogged channel. In this case, it is necessary, if necessary, to contact the management company. It happens that residents of the upper floors brick up the ventilation, which also interferes with air circulation. This issue will also have to be resolved through the Criminal Code.

Fan selection

The fan must meet a number of requirements:

• Safety. The device will be connected to electricity and installed in a damp room, so moisture protection must be provided, and the fan must also be resistant to steam.
• Low noise level. This parameter should not exceed 35 dB during device operation. Otherwise, the constant hum will irritate residents, and in some cases, neighbors. You will have to spend money on sound insulation.
• Fan capacity. It should be enough to change the air in the room 5–8 times per hour.

Fan power calculation

The fan power level should ensure optimal air circulation, at least at the level of SNiPs. If it cannot drive a sufficient volume through itself, then there is no point in installing it. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate the required minimum. There are different calculation formulas.

• By room area. The area of ​​the room is multiplied by 5 and added 20%. This is the required minimum fan power that will be needed to provide fresh air to a room of given dimensions. However, it is recommended to buy a more powerful device.
• Taking into account the number of people - 6V or 8V. In this case, the volume of the bathroom (V) is calculated and multiplied by a coefficient. If the premises are used by 2 or fewer people, then a coefficient of 6 is taken, if 3 or more - a coefficient of 8.

Fan installation

In most cases there is no problem with . There are several general rules for placing a hood indoors:

• It should be at the highest possible height, as close to the ceiling as possible, this will increase the volume of purified air.
• As far as possible from water and plumbing fixtures, as moisture can cause a short circuit.
• At the maximum distance from windows, doors and other natural sources of fresh air, otherwise ventilation will not cover the entire volume of the room. Air masses that have just entered the room will immediately be removed through the shaft, while the rest of the air will stagnate.

In most cases, the bathroom does not require additional complex air duct designs: the cooler is mounted directly into the opening of the ventilation shaft.

You can connect the device to electricity in different ways:

• make a separate switch, i.e. the device will work only when someone presses the button (the switch can be either outside or inside the room);
• connect to the bathroom switch, in this case the fan will work when the light in the room is on.

HELPFUL INFORMATION: Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: sequence of work

Here everyone is free to choose the option that they consider more convenient for themselves.