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How to insulate walls in a wooden house inside. Insulation of a wooden house from the inside. Creating ventilation and insulating walls with foam plastic

An important stage in the construction of modern houses is their thermal insulation. The main goals of insulation are to create a comfortable temperature in the premises and more economical consumption of energy resources used for heating.

Both wood and stone buildings need thermal insulation.

According to building regulations, insulation must be done externally. The reason is that the dew point is located on the outside of the room in the insulating material or in the front layer of load-bearing structures. With this method of thermal insulation, condensation will not form on the walls of the rooms.

But this insulation option is not the only one. Thermal insulation is carried out not only from the outside, but also from the inside. In some situations, internal insulation is the only correct option. For example, if the owner of a home wants to preserve the external presentability that wooden buildings are distinguished by, or the architectural appearance of the house has historical value.

We suggest you learn how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands using different types of thermal insulation materials.

Causes of heat loss in a wooden house

As a rule, wooden houses are very comfortable. Such buildings are cool in the warm season and warm in the winter.

A decrease in temperature inside a wooden house is caused by two main factors:

  • improper vapor barrier;
  • cracks that appeared in an old building due to the drying out of wood over time.

Is it possible to insulate a wooden house from the inside? Of course, and if the house is old, it’s even necessary! In order to perform thermal insulation from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials and follow the technology provided for such a task.

Insulation work on both new and old wooden houses is carried out in stages.

How and with what to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside with your own hands? Let's consider the stages of internal wall insulation and select environmentally friendly insulation for internal thermal insulation.

Preparation

All actions related to the construction and improvement of residential buildings must be preceded by calculations - this rule also applies to the insulation of a wooden building.
Calculations make it possible to find out the degree of effectiveness of thermal insulation and find out whether it is, in principle, possible to carry out insulation from the inside.

Insulating material always fulfills its purpose, but the location of the dew point plays a decisive role. Under no circumstances should it be placed on the inside of load-bearing structures, especially in insulating material, and the task of the calculations is to demonstrate this.

When the dew point is placed from the inside, the room will have a fairly comfortable temperature, but in winter there is always dampness, leading to wet insulation materials, wood rotting, and mold formation.

Provided that the dew point does not end up in the inside of the room even in winter, thermal insulation can be done from the inside.

But at the same time, the internal space of living quarters will inevitably have to be sacrificed.

Selecting materials

There are a number of requirements for materials used for internal thermal insulation of wooden houses:

  • low heat conductivity;
  • fire resistance;
  • strength;
  • environmental Safety.

Thermal insulation methods are selected based on the materials used for this purpose.

How to insulate a house from the inside? Currently, several types of insulation for house walls are produced:

Modern insulation materials have many advantages: lightness, flexibility, excellent thermal insulation parameters.

Seal the joints

Having decided to take on the task of insulating a wooden house with your own hands, you need to take into account one important point. A wooden structure shrinks, a process that takes several months. In addition to shrinkage, when the heating system in the premises is brought into operation, the wood begins to dry out at high speed. This is reflected in the configuration of logs and beams.

Initially densely spaced wooden elements at the joints can form large gaps that release heat to the street.

For this reason, the first step in thermal insulation of a wooden household should be sealing the seams.

For this purpose, sealants and other materials are used. It is convenient to seal the cracks with a wide chisel.

If the gaps are large, use rolled tow.

At this stage, the main thing is to stop the warm air from escaping through the cracks.

Important! Do not forget about the safety of electrical wiring when sealing cracks, especially if it is located on the surface: in this case, be sure to separate it and insulate it from the wall.

Protection of wood from fire and biological factors

Part of the load-bearing structures located from the inside will be covered with an insulating layer for a long time. Taking this into account, the wood should be treated with agents that protect it from fire and mold. You cannot save on treatment with such compounds, and you need to choose high-quality products to ensure good protection.

When treating load-bearing structures with agents that have fire and bioprotective effects, you need to take into account that wooden fences also need treatment, since they will also be located in the insulation.

Ventilation

For what reason did owners of private houses previously not think much about ventilation of buildings? The thing is that previously ventilation was carried out naturally - through loosely located windows and cavities in the walls. This is typical for old log houses even now.

The materials used for the construction of modern buildings avoid gaps and cracks through which air currents can circulate. But this does not mean that there should be no air movement in the rooms at all. Ventilation systems are designed in modern buildings. Such systems remove recycled air from rooms and provide an influx of fresh air.

Properly performed internal insulation must provide ventilation. Only in this case the microclimate in the house will be optimal.

The insulation itself, which has a porous structure, for example, mineral wool, also needs ventilation. For this reason, there must be a small distance between the supporting structure and the heat-insulating material for unhindered air circulation and removal of excess moisture. In this case, the humidity level throughout the room will be uniform.

Making such a gap is not difficult. A wooden strip measuring about 25 mm in size is attached to the supporting structures at an equal distance, and a vapor barrier film is attached on top of it. Thus, a small distance is formed between the wall and the heat-insulating material for air movement, which protects the internal structures and the insulating material from moisture.

On a note! If the walls of the building are made of logs with a cylindrical configuration, then ventilation gaps are formed naturally. If laminated timber was used to build the house, it is recommended to take care of designing the ventilation gap.

Vapor barrier layer

The use of thermal insulation materials such as glass wool, mineral wool, and expanded polystyrene (non-pressed variety) for insulation requires the installation of a vapor barrier.

It is mounted as follows: a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the ventilation sheathing. A stapler is used for fastening.

Important point! When installing a vapor barrier membrane, be sure to pull the film tightly so that there is a gap between the supporting structure and it for ventilation.

The connection of two sheets of vapor barrier film is made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and secured with tape.

If an extruded type of polystyrene foam is used as a thermal insulation material, then there is no need for a vapor barrier layer. Extruded polystyrene foam has waterproofing properties that prevent moisture penetration.

Fencing installation

In all options for thermal insulation of internal load-bearing structures of a log or timber house, with the exception of the use of isoplat, installation of a fence is required. Typically, timber with a square cross-section (50 mm) is used to design it. The distance of the wooden block depends on the width of the insulating material.

When using mineral wool, the step between the placement of the bars should be 10 mm smaller in comparison with the width of the heat insulator in order to achieve maximum tightness.

When using extruded polystyrene foam, the step is made in accordance with the width of the sheets of material.

Important! Before installation, be sure to treat all wooden blocks with a composition that has fire and bioprotective properties.

The bars are attached with screws directly to the wooden supporting structures. If there is a sheathing to form a ventilation gap, the beams are attached to the installed slats. It is recommended to insert fasteners into pre-made small holes (use a thin drill for this) so that the wood does not crack.

In some cases, the fence is made of plasterboard profiles attached to supporting structures using direct hangers. This is done only if the cladding is made of plasterboard.

Wooden bars are preferable because they have lower heat conductivity compared to metal products.

In the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, the fence is designed according to a similar principle. When insulating a floor, wooden logs to which the finishing coating is attached serve as a fence.

Installation of heat insulator

Insulation material is placed in the cavity between the enclosing elements. If the heat insulator is in the form of sheets, then wall installation should begin from the bottom, and when using rolled material, from the top, moving downwards.

Mineral wool sheets are placed sideways, due to which their reliable fastening is achieved. But this material, just like foam plastic, needs additional fastening with nails (one for each sheet).

Thermal insulation in rolls is attached to the top of the wall with one screw, then the material is unrolled and attached with nails at a distance of one meter.

First, solid sheets are installed, and the remaining areas where trimming is necessary are filled with insulating material at the very end.

If the roof is sloping, the ceiling insulator unfolds from the bottom in the direction from bottom to top and is secured with nails or with a cord. Small nails are nailed to adjacent bars at a distance of 15 cm, and after the heat-insulating material is laid, a zigzag cord is pulled between the beams, which will ensure reliable fastening of the insulation.

When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, all existing gaps in the seams are sealed with construction foam. Applying foam requires pre-wetting the surfaces. Dried excess foam is cut off with a knife.

Video about insulating walls from the inside

The video tutorial below shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside:

Insulating walls from the inside in wooden houses makes them more comfortable and economical. In addition, good thermal performance of the walls allows you to save on heating. The issue should be taken seriously, since the result will depend entirely on the chosen material and compliance with the technology.

Insulation from the inside

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside avoids the need for exterior finishing. With this approach, you can maintain the attractive appearance of a building made of timber or rounded logs. But the technology has a number of disadvantages that you should prepare for:

  • the interior spaces, but not the walls, are protected from the harmful effects of cold;
  • the useful area of ​​the building is reduced;
  • There are certain restrictions on the materials used.

Which insulation to choose

What is the best way to insulate a house? It’s worth starting from the material of the walls. The tree has gained well-deserved popularity due to the fact that it is able to “breathe”. Wood allows air to pass through well, providing excellent ventilation in rooms.

To preserve the beneficial properties to the fullest when working from the inside with your own hands, you need to use materials that are similar in breathability to wood. To insulate a house, it is better to abandon such heat insulators as:

  • Styrofoam;
  • extruded polystyrene foam (or more simply “Penoplex”);
  • penoizol.

They are highly airtight, so they can create a greenhouse effect in a building. This will require expensive forced ventilation or installation of air conditioners.

The best material for thermal insulation is mineral wool.

Its advantages include:

  • high efficiency;
  • the ability to pass air without interfering with natural ventilation;
  • safety for human health and the environment;
  • non-flammability;
  • ease of installation;
  • availability;
  • low cost.

But when using cotton wool, it is worth remembering its disadvantages. The material absorbs moisture well, but ceases to perform its main function. To avoid getting wet, it is also worth purchasing a vapor barrier and wind-waterproofing.

Layer diagram for mineral wool insulation

There are several types of mineral wool. The best option would be basalt (stone) insulation in slabs. You can also choose glass wool, which comes in the form of mats rolled into a roll. The second option may cause installation difficulties. The material is very itchy, and particles getting into the lungs or on the skin cause itching. To avoid unpleasant consequences, all work with glass wool is carried out in special clothing and masks.



The most undesirable, but inexpensive option would be slag wool. But when insulating your home, it’s better not to save money. Cotton wool is made from industrial waste. Manufacturers are responsible for safety, but it is not always possible to check which slags the insulation is made from. You can easily come across low-quality material or a fake, with which insulating a wooden house from the inside will be dangerous to health and life.

Preparatory stage

Before insulating a wooden house from the inside, you will need to prepare the walls. This is especially true if it is necessary to insulate an old wooden house. In this case, the material that was used for caulking had time to cake. The main task at this stage will be to eliminate cracks - sources of drafts, cold and moisture.

Work begins by cleaning the base. You will need to remove dust and dirt that has accumulated on the walls. Before insulating an old house, it is worth checking the strength of the wood. It should not be damaged by various pests. Otherwise, it is better to strengthen the walls.

To prevent problems with insects and microorganisms in the future, the surface is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can also treat with fire retardants, they increase the material’s resistance to fire.


Treatment with antiseptics will protect the wood from rotting

Wood shrinks over time. Because of this, cracks may appear in the walls. Before starting insulation work, it is worth doing. Currently, jute is most often used for these purposes. For large cracks, it would be wise to purchase tape tow. The material is hammered between logs or beams using a chisel.


Caulk will protect the walls from blowing and will become an additional heat insulator

It is necessary to carry out the work until the material no longer fits into the space and begins to hang outward. High-quality caulk is the key to a warm home.

Wind-waterproofing of walls

Mineral wool is afraid of moisture. Before you insulate the walls of a wooden house, you should take care to protect the insulation. On the outside of the mineral wool, a layer of wind-waterproofing is fixed. It prevents weathering and penetration of atmospheric moisture. There are several types of suitable materials, but the best option is a vapor diffusion membrane.


This modern material reliably protects against water, but does not interfere with the movement of air and steam. This allows you to maintain the ability of the walls to breathe, as well as ensure the removal of moisture from the insulation.

The waterproofing is attached to the walls using a construction stapler. The joints of the canvases are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are taped with tape or special tape.

Installation of insulation

Internal wall insulation is carried out along the frame. It can be made of wood from a metal profile. The easiest way to insulate a wooden building is to use wood for the frame. It is important to correctly select the geometric dimensions of the frame:

  • The pitch of the racks is selected taking into account the width of the insulation. It should be approximately 2 cm less than the width of the mats or slabs. This is necessary for a tight fit of the material. For mineral wool, the spacing of the posts is most often used so that there is a clear distance of 58 cm between them.
  • The overhang of the frame must take into account the thickness of the insulation and the required ventilation gap. It is needed to remove condensation from the surface and allows you to keep the material dry. The thickness of the ventilation gap is usually taken to be 3-5 cm.

Installation of slabs in walls should be carried out with tension - then it will not begin to slide over time

Mineral wool is placed between the sheathing posts. With the correct choice of the last step, the heat insulator will be held in place due to friction. For additional fastening, you can use special plastic dowels; they are usually sold together with insulation.

Vapor barrier

How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? It is important not only to choose the right insulation, but also to protect it from all types of moisture. Interiors are characterized by fairly high humidity; water in the form of steam can easily reach the mineral wool and reduce its effectiveness.


Vapor barrier is a mandatory layer when using mineral wool

Internal wall insulation implies the mandatory presence. It is mounted on top of the insulation. A good option for protection is vapor barrier membranes.


They are more expensive than films, but do not interfere with the movement of air through the walls. Membranes will become a more modern and efficient option.
Insulation of a wooden wall from the inside with their help is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. The method of attachment may vary for different types.

Finishing

The insulation of the walls of a wooden house is completed by finishing. For these purposes, you can use a variety of options. But when choosing a material, it is worth remembering about ventilation. The finishing layer should not impede air movement, otherwise the entire previous choice of materials is useless.


Lining for interior cladding is a simple, inexpensive and environmentally friendly option

Insulation thickness

Insulating walls in wooden houses from the inside should begin with calculating the thickness of the heat insulator. Only a professional can perform detailed calculations. For self-construction, you can use special programs. For example, the Teremok program. It is quite simple and freely available. There is both an online version and a PC application.

On average, mineral wool with a thickness of 80-100 mm is used for walls. But it all depends on the climatic region.
Before you insulate your own wooden house from the inside, you should carefully study the information on the topic.

And do not forget that from the point of view of heating engineering, it is more correct.

Proper execution of work is the key to durability and comfort.

Internal insulation has many disadvantages, including costs First of all, highlight the formation of condensation. Therefore, your house, especially a wooden one, should be insulated from the outside - in this case, the internal temperature of the walls will drop very slowly. The location of the cold zone will fall on the inside of the insulation, so it will not touch the wooden walls.

It is better to combine home insulation with a vapor barrier material installed from the inside - this will not only prevent the penetration of cold from the outside, but will also prevent condensation from accumulating in the structure and destroying it. As a result, the house will be warm and the humidity level will always be normal.

Note! You should always leave a small air gap between the wooden wall and the insulation, otherwise mold will appear there and the structure will sooner or later collapse.

The modern building materials market offers a wide range of insulation materials, among which everyone can choose the appropriate option both in terms of quality and cost. The most popular of them today is mineral wool, so let's start with it.

The main advantage of this material is fire safety, which, in fact, makes it so in demand. Moreover, mineral wool provides good ventilation, prevents the formation of rot and fungi, and also conducts heat well.

Minuses:

  • the material easily loses its original shape;
  • it is short-lived - after just a year of use, almost half of its properties are lost.

The average cost of a cubic meter of mineral wool is approximately 1,500 rubles. This figure varies in one direction or another depending on the manufacturer and the technical characteristics of the material.

Another option that you can resort to when insulating a wooden house. The foam consists of many granules filled with air, which provides lightness and good thermal insulation.

Pros:

  • excellent sound insulation properties;
  • long service life;
  • ease of installation;
  • resistance to deformation and rotting;
  • high density;
  • resistance to temperature changes.

Minuses:

  • environmental unsafety;
  • tendency to ignite quickly.

But the main disadvantage of the material is that it cannot be used for insulating wooden houses due to poor vapor permeability.

A square meter of polystyrene foam costs from 50 to 300 rubles, depending on the thickness and the company that produces the spruce.

Penoplex is also widely used for insulating buildings. It is produced by extrusion, resulting in the formation of a material of uniform consistency. The advantages of the material include:

  • environmental friendliness;
  • non-flammability;
  • safety;
  • ease of operation;
  • water-repellent characteristics (due to the fact that there are no micropores in the cells);
  • ability to withstand heavy physical exertion;
  • durability, rot resistance;
  • low thermal conductivity.

Minuses:

  • upon contact with solvents of organic origin, the material is destroyed;
  • difficulties arise when cutting and fitting;
  • Vapor tightness can sometimes be more of a disadvantage than a plus.

A cubic meter of penoplex costs approximately 4,000 rubles. Insulating a wooden house with such material is effective, but very expensive.

Note! If you want to insulate your home and protect it without spending a lot of money on it, then it is recommended to pay attention to mineral wool. The technology below is based on the use of this material.

Isoplat is made from coniferous trees, and no chemical binders are added. Due to this, the slab does not dry out or deform over time. In addition, Izoplat is environmentally friendly and as effective as wood itself.

Pros:

  • thermal insulation: 12 mm slabs = 44 mm solid wood
  • sound insulation from -23 dB
  • elasticity: the slab fits tightly to the frame, breaking cold bridges at the joints
  • vapor permeability: the slabs remove excess moisture from the wall, preventing the formation of fungus and mold in the house
  • ease of installation: The isoplat is pressed against the wall and nailed, a ventilated façade is installed on top and that’s it. No more materials or work will be required.
  • paraffin impregnation: protects walls from atmospheric humidity
  • 100% environmentally friendly

Minuses:

  • - a higher price compared to other materials, but it will pay off, since Izoplat is guaranteed to “work” for more than 70 years and no alterations will be needed.

The first stage of work is to prepare the necessary tools and building materials.

What will be required at work

When insulating a house you will need:

  • mineral wool;
  • scotch;
  • wooden slats (250 mm thick);
  • nails;
  • polyethylene film;
  • staples;
  • boards, approximately 10x5mm;
  • slats, 5x3 cm;
  • waterproofing.

And now - directly to work.

First stage. Surface preparation

Upon completion of installation, the outer walls of the house will remain closed, so first they should be protected from harmful microorganisms and rot. For this purpose, special compounds are applied to the surface, which must be allowed to dry completely. Usually this takes a little time and after a few days you can begin installation.

Second phase. Vapor barrier

Wooden houses are good because they do not need a layer of air between the vapor barrier and the outer surface of the walls. For this reason, you can immediately attach plastic film. Wooden slats are nailed to a flat surface (approximately every meter), to which a layer of vapor barrier is attached with staples. This distance is necessary to ensure proper ventilation. Holes are made from below and above between the slats to eliminate the possibility of moisture accumulation and increase the intensity of air circulation.

The points at which the film is attached to the slats must be sealed with tape, which will protect the insulation from moisture penetration.

Third stage. Frame construction

Next you need to create a frame. The boards should be nailed, being installed “on edge”, in increments of 1.5-2 cm smaller than the width of the insulation board. By the way, mineral wool has sufficient rigidity to be placed in a frame without additional fasteners. In any case, the sheets of material will not slip.

Note! Professionals advise installing two layers of insulation at once in our climate zone. It is typical that the joints between the slabs of the first and second layers should not coincide.

Fourth stage. Waterproofing

The final stage of work is the installation of waterproofing, designed to protect the insulation from moisture penetration. The membrane is ideal for this - its special structure allows air access, thereby creating additional ventilation, and at the same time does not allow moisture to pass through to the mineral wool.

The waterproofing must be attached to the frame in the same way as a vapor barrier. This creates a 2-centimeter overlap at the joints. The joints themselves are taped with tape to ensure tightness.

Fifth stage. Ventilated facade

If all these procedures are followed, a ventilated facade is created in parallel. It is designed to circulate air flow between the waterproofing and the outer layer of surface finishing. For this reason, it is necessary to create an additional layer of frame. A similar sheathing is constructed, but this time the slats are used in a different size - 3x5 cm. A fine-mesh iron mesh is installed at the bottom of the frame, which will prevent the penetration of insects and small rodents.

Sixth stage. Facade finishing

What material will be used to decorate the facade depends entirely on the design features, financial capabilities and personal wishes of the owner. For example, to give your home an attractive appearance, you can:

  • cover with clapboard;
  • decorate it with facade tiles;
  • sheathe with boards;
  • build vinyl siding.

Siding is considered the most suitable option, but when installing it you need to adhere to some rules.

  1. First of all, when finishing siding you should work from the bottom up.
  2. It is imperative to leave a gap of 1 cm between the panels of material.
  3. To fix the siding, you must use nails or screws.

Possible installation options

Before you start insulating a wooden house, you need to find out what its load-bearing capacity is. When constructing simple frame buildings, predominantly strip foundations are used. Consequently, in this case, it will be necessary to install an additional base, made in the form of a strip under the cladding. It is desirable that the base is directly connected to the foundation.

The insulating layer is attached to the frame, we have already talked about this.

Sometimes, when insulating, a hinged frame is used, for the manufacture of which perforated aluminum profiles were used. Also, external walls can be insulated with lightweight materials, for example, pressed flax or wood chips. Of course, the effectiveness of these materials cannot be compared with mineral wool or penoplex.

As a conclusion

High-quality insulation materials are available today to every owner of a wooden house. If all the work is done correctly, the result will be not only a cozy atmosphere, but also significant budget savings. Moreover, such a house will look beautiful and presentable - in any case, the owner will have something to be proud of.

Video - Insulating the walls of a wooden house

A comfortable temperature regime at home is one of the important conditions for the health of its inhabitants. To ensure a normal environment in the room, insulation work is carried out. Insulation is a necessary stage in the construction of a house; it is better to do it at this stage, but it can be done later.

What you need to know about insulating the walls of a wooden house inside

Owners of private wooden houses know how important it is to insulate the house. How comfortable living there will be depends on this. No matter what building material the building is built from, timber or logs, it needs insulation, especially considering how severe frosts there are in our country.

A professional does not need to talk about materials and technologies - he already knows everything, but what should an amateur pay attention to if he wants to create the inside of a wooden house with his own hands?

There are two main technologies for insulating the walls of a house - external insulation and internal insulation. Each has its own characteristics, pros and cons.

For external insulation, the insulation material is located outside, which allows you to preserve the building’s façade from adverse natural factors. In addition, space is saved.

Insulation from the inside is chosen if, for example, it is impossible to “touch” the facade or for some reason it is impossible to build a wooden house.

Before you begin insulating a log house or insulating a log house, you need to determine how to install waterproofing to prevent condensation.

When the insulation is located inside, the outer wall freezes and condensation forms. So think about waterproofing first. You can, for example, use polyethylene film when attaching the insulation to the wall - it is suitable in many cases.

How to insulate a wooden house

The modern construction market provides a lot. Among them, the most popular are those that are both not very expensive and at the same time effective. Therefore, it has become possible to insulate walls inside a wooden house even for an inexperienced person.

Penoplex, or white polystyrene foam, consists of air and foamed polystyrene. It is produced in the form of slabs of different thicknesses and sizes. It is easy to use, making it in demand in the building materials market.

Expanded polystyrene characteristics:

  • Low thermal conductivity;
  • High noise absorption;
  • Does not create conditions for the development of a humid environment;
  • Long service life;
  • Does not emit harmful substances during operation;
  • Resistant to temperature changes;
  • Light weight, which is convenient for transportation and installation;
  • Does not ignite;
  • Does not create a comfortable environment for the growth of fungi and mold;
  • It's inexpensive.

The technology for insulating a house with penoplex is as follows:

  • First you need to prepare the wall, clean it of dirt and dust; you can use a regular broom for this purpose. If there are cracks, they should be repaired using putty.
  • The surface is primed with acrylic - this prevents the formation of fungal colonies.
  • When the primer dries, polystyrene foam boards are glued. The glue is applied to the wall and to the slab, after which the slab must be pressed against the wall.
  • Work starts from the bottom, the slabs are glued end to end in a checkerboard pattern. The seams must be treated using polyurethane foam.
  • When the glue dries, each slab must be attached for greater fixation using dowels in the corners and in the center.
  • The top is covered with a membrane film or polyethylene for waterproofing, and it is glued together with tape at the joints.

  • Next is the reinforcing mesh.
  • After this, you can start decorating.

It has several varieties, among which the most popular is stone wool, which is produced by melting volcanic rocks. Compared to glass wool, it has more advantages.

Basalt insulation characteristics:

  • Safety during installation;
  • Good insulation indicator;
  • High noise absorption;
  • High vapor permeability;
  • Does not emit toxic substances;
  • Does not ignite;
  • Resistant to temperature changes;
  • Does not rot, does not mold;
  • It lasts a long time.

The technology for internal insulation of house walls with mineral wool is as follows.

  • The wall is cleaned of dirt. All cracks are treated with putty. If there is mold or fungi, the area should be thoroughly cleaned, washed, dried and treated with antifungal agents.
  • Mounts on the wall.

  • The sheathing is made of vertical wooden beams. In this case, it is important that the pitch of the sheathing corresponds to the width of the mineral wool roll in order to tightly attach the insulation to the wall.
  • A mineral wool slab is mounted end-to-end between the sheathing beams. The seams are sealed with adhesive tape.

  • Next, the membrane vapor-waterproofing film is stretched. It needs to be glued at the joints and ensure that the seal is not broken.
  • This layer is fixed to the sheathing with wooden planks.
  • The interior walls of the house are being finished.

Insulation of house walls with mineral wool from the inside video:

Foil insulation

This is a high-tech material coated with foil, which, while not being a heat insulator itself, effectively reflects heat, directing it back into the house. There are quite a lot of varieties: penofol, with a self-adhesive coating, single-sided and double-sided, isover, etc.

The technology for insulating a log house from the inside using material with foil is briefly as follows.

  • The wall surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. All cracks and crevices must be filled using putty.
  • A wooden sheathing of beams is attached to the wall, the pitch of which corresponds to the width of the roll of this material.

  • The foil coating is placed end-to-end between the sheathing bars; it is necessary to ensure that the metallized layer is directed into the building. The joints must be sealed with aluminized adhesive tape.

Unlike other insulation options, the use of foil material allows you to avoid installing a waterproofing film. Therefore, after its installation, you can begin finishing the interior walls of the house.

Differences in methods of insulating the walls of a house

In construction, both methods of thermal insulation are used - external insulation and internal insulation. However, insulating a wooden house from the inside has more disadvantages and is performed more often if insulation from the outside cannot be done for various reasons. Installing insulation cannot be called a very complicated process, but if you have basic construction skills, it can be completed quite quickly.

But for a person who does not have professional knowledge, experience and skills, it will be difficult at first to understand the intricacies of the work. Of course, it will take time to study all the nuances of insulating a wooden house from the inside with your own hands. But with what pleasure all family members will return to a cozy and comfortable home!

Construction science recommends external insulation of buildings, since in this case the dew point is located outside the room in the insulation or in the outer layer of the walls. With such insulation, moisture will not condense on the walls in the rooms.

But there are still cases when insulation of a wooden house from the inside– is the only correct decision. For example, if the owner of the house wants to preserve the beautiful appearance characteristic of houses made of rounded logs, or the laws require preserving the historical appearance of the building.

Modern construction science makes it possible to do internal insulation of wooden houses, but for this you need to use the right materials and follow the technology.

Preparatory work

All work on the construction and arrangement of residential buildings must be preceded by engineering calculations. This also applies to the internal insulation of a wooden house.

Thermal engineering calculation should show how effective the insulation will be and, in general, is there a possibility of internal insulation? The insulation will always perform its function, but the position of the dew point is of decisive importance.

The dew point should never be on the interior walls. and even more so in insulation and calculations should show this. If the dew point is inside, the room will be warm, but in the cold season it will be constantly damp. And from dampness, porous insulation becomes wet, the walls of houses rot, mold and various unwanted living creatures grow en masse.

Only if the dew point is not inside the room even in the coldest period can you confidently carry out internal insulation. True, for this you will have to sacrifice part of the internal volume of the house, but without this there is no way!

Materials used for internal insulation

Materials used in the internal insulation of a house must meet certain requirements:

  1. Firstly, they must have low thermal conductivity in order to fulfill their main function - insulation.
  2. Secondly, these materials must meet fire safety requirements for premises.
  3. Thirdly, the material, alone or in combination with the mounting structure, must provide the required mechanical strength.
  4. And finally, all materials used indoors must be environmentally friendly and not release any chemicals into the surrounding air that adversely affect the health of living beings.

Insulation methods

Methods for insulating a wooden house directly depend on the materials used for this. In modern construction, several types are used:

  1. Mineral basalt wool slabs- are used most often. This material does not burn, is environmentally friendly, its use provides excellent heat and sound insulation. Low mechanical strength requires the construction of an enclosing structure, and high hygroscopicity requires covering mineral wool with special vapor barrier films.
  2. Expanded polystyrene boards (foam plastic), also found application in internal insulation. Their use is not recommended, as they can release substances containing styrene into the air. When burned, pressless polystyrene foam releases deadly substances: hydrogen cyanide and toluene diisocyanate. Therefore, you can only use extruded polystyrene foam, flammability class - G1. Insulation with polystyrene foam also requires a building envelope.
  3. Glass wool– a widely used material for insulation. It has a lower price than basalt wool, but also has greater thermal conductivity. To insulate interior spaces with glass wool, only material specially designed for this purpose should be used, which should additionally be covered with films. Small particles of glass wool are very harmful to health, so installation is carried out only with skin and respiratory protection. Requires enclosing structures.
  4. Isoplat– modern insulation, which consists of a layer of pressed flax fiber and fibreboard with a thickness of 12 to 25 mm. High mechanical strength makes it possible not to make powerful enclosing structures, and the environmental friendliness of this material allows it to be used indoors. The thermal conductivity indicators of Isoplat are worse, and the price is significantly higher than that of other insulation materials.
  5. Insulation with polyurethane foam, sprayed onto the surface - a modern excellent method that requires special equipment. Enclosing structures are needed for such insulation.

In this video you can see how a wooden house is insulated from the inside with polyurethane foam.

Insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Sealing joints

A wooden house, even an impeccably built one, will settle for quite a long time. In addition to precipitation, when the heating is turned on, the wood in the house intensively dries out, which affects the geometric dimensions of the log or laminated veneer lumber. Initially, even well-laid logs or beams can form enlarged gaps at their joints, through which heat will be mercilessly carried into the atmosphere.

Therefore, the first operation to insulate a house is to seal the joints.

Fire protection of wood

During insulation, the inner part of the walls will be hidden by a layer of insulation, and for quite a long time. That is why the tree must be treated with a good fire-retardant composition, which will last for a long time. will prevent the development of living creatures and make it difficult to catch fire. There is no point in saving on this; you need to choose only good compounds that are guaranteed to provide the necessary protection.

When treating walls with fire-bioprotective compounds, it must be taken into account that all enclosing structures, if they are wooden, must also be treated, since they will also be hidden in the insulation structure.

Thermal insulation and ventilation

Why didn’t we think much about home ventilation before? Yes, because ventilation was carried out naturally - through leaks in wall and window structures.

Modern building materials and technologies eliminate any leaks and gaps through which air can pass, but this does not mean that air should not circulate in the room. In modern houses, a ventilation system is designed that should supply fresh air to the room and remove exhaust air.

Good internal thermal insulation should always be accompanied by ventilation. Only then will the microclimate in the room be normal. But the thermal insulation itself, which has a soft and porous structure, such as mineral wool, also requires ventilation. Therefore, in the gap between the wall and the thermal insulation layer there must be an air gap through which air must circulate freely, removing excess moisture, comparing the air humidity throughout the room.

Such intervals are implemented very easily in practice. A wooden strip approximately 2.5 cm thick is attached to the walls at a certain interval, and a vapor barrier membrane is attached to it. It turns out that there is an air gap between the wall and the insulation, which prevents increased humidity of the internal walls and insulation.

If the walls of the house are built from cylindrical logs, then ventilation gaps are obtained naturally, and if they are made from laminated veneer lumber, then installing a ventilation gap is highly desirable.

Vapor barrier

If used as insulation basalt wool, glass wool, non-pressed polystyrene foam, then a vapor barrier must be done. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ventilation sheathing using a construction stapler. The film must be stretched sufficiently so that there is a ventilation gap between it and the wall. The joining of two vapor barrier panels is done with an overlap of at least 10 cm using tape and a stapler.

If the interior of the house is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, then a vapor barrier is not needed. This material already has the necessary waterproofing qualities and will be a reliable barrier to moisture.

Installation of the building envelope

All methods of insulating the internal walls of a wooden house, except for Isoplat slabs, require the construction of an enclosing structure. Most often it is made from a wooden block with a square cross-section measuring 50 mm. The installation step of the bar is determined by the width of the insulation. If mineral wool insulation is used, then the distance between adjacent bars should be 10 mm less than the width of the insulation - for a tight fit. If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the distance must be exactly the width of the insulation boards.

Before installation it is necessary to treat all the bars with a fire-retardant composition. Installation is carried out using screws of the required length directly to the wooden walls. If lathing was used for the ventilation gap, then the bars are attached to the previously installed slats. In this case, it is better to screw the screws into holes pre-drilled with a thin drill. This will prevent possible cracking of the wood.

Sometimes plasterboard profiles are used as an enclosing structure, which are attached to the walls using direct hangers. This should only be done when plasterboard will be used as the finishing material, and in all other cases it is better to use a wooden block. The thermal conductivity of wood is much lower than that of metal.

When insulating the ceiling, the enclosing structure is made similarly to the wall. When insulating the floor, the wooden logs themselves, on which the floor covering will be attached, act as an enclosing structure.

Installation of insulation

Insulation is placed in the space between the enclosing bars. If sheet insulation, then installation on walls is carried out from bottom to top, and roll installation, on the contrary, is carried out from top to bottom.

Mineral wool slabs are laid apart, which allows them to hold securely. However, you should still additionally strengthen the foam or mineral wool using special dowels with a wide head, one dowel per slab.

Roll insulation secured at the top with one dowel, rolled down and secured with dowels at intervals of 1 meter. First, whole slabs or rolls are laid, and the remaining space where trimming is required is filled with insulation last.

Ceiling insulation, in the case of a sloping roof, is rolled out from the bottom up and can be fastened with dowels or using a cord. To do this, small nails are placed on adjacent bars at intervals of 15 cm, and then, after laying the insulation, a cord is stretched in a zigzag pattern between the beams, which will securely hold the mineral wool.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used for insulation, then all possible gaps at the joints can be filled with polyurethane foam. Before applying the foam, the surfaces are moistened, and after it dries, all excess is trimmed with a knife.

Final waterproofing

After installing the insulation, if the thermal insulation was made with porous materials capable of absorbing water, then it is necessary to cover the insulation with a layer of waterproofing, but special - vapor-permeable membrane, which, on the one hand, is a reliable barrier to water, and on the other hand, the membrane freely releases water vapor from the insulation. Even if water has condensed in the insulation, it will come out in the form of steam until the humidity of the insulation is equal to the humidity in the room.

The vapor-permeable film has two sides: one is smooth and the other is rough, through which water vapor escapes. The rough side of such a film is laid against the insulation and secured with a stapler to the enclosing structure. Joints with an overlap of 10 cm are glued with tape and secured with a stapler. For waterproof insulation, a vapor-permeable membrane is not needed.

The final stage of insulation There will be installation of the finishing coating, which can be wooden lining, plasterboard, plywood, OSB boards and others.

conclusions

  1. Insulation of walls inside a wooden house is done extremely rarely and is very often a necessary measure.
  2. Before installing internal thermal insulation, it is necessary to carry out thermal calculations showing the position of the dew point during the cold period. There should be no dew on the interior walls or in the insulation.
  3. As insulation, you should choose only environmentally friendly ones from well-known manufacturers.
  4. Porous insulation materials must be covered with waterproofing films on the wall side and a vapor-permeable membrane on the room side.