What to glue ceramic mosaic tiles onto. How to glue mosaics: types, choice of glue, technology for performing the work. Choosing grout for joints

Mosaic looks more beautiful, more unusual and richer than simple tiles. In this material I will tell you how to lay mosaics with your own hands using the example of walls in the kitchen.

Quick navigation through the article

Materials and tools

We will need:

Preparing the walls

The main secret of high-quality mosaic cladding is perfectly smooth walls. The plane must be flat, without differences horizontally or vertically. The best way to achieve smooth walls is to plaster them along the beacons.

I will talk about plaster briefly, since this topic deserves a separate article.

Mosaic laying

Using the level, we mark the lower edge of the apron along which the mosaic tiles will be laid. We screw a 27x28 mm profile along this line. It will perform a supporting function so that the mosaics do not slip and lie flat.

Once again we prime the walls and start laying from the corner.
I use white mosaic glue and . It costs more, but if you lay it on regular gray cement, then a dark background will be visible through the glass mosaic. These 2 mixtures have increased open and adjustment times, as well as almost zero tile slip.

Stir the mixture, let it brew for 5-10 minutes, stir again and start.
Using a regular spatula, apply glue to the wall, and then remove the excess with a comb. Since the walls are perfectly smooth, the glue must be applied in a thin, even layer. Press the spatula firmly and always move it at the same angle.

We apply a sheet of mosaic and follow the vertical and horizontal edges so that the line is even and level. Use a long level to look at the plane of the mosaic. It is more convenient for me to level the surface of the mosaic by slapping it with a sanding block without sandpaper. There is almost no need to look at the general level of the cladding: the walls are even, the layer of glue is the same everywhere.

Crosses are inserted only between the sheets of the mosaic every 2-3 elements.
The seams of adjacent sheets should match and form one straight line.

After gluing the sheet, remove excess glue from the wall.
We calculate the trim sizes in advance, taking into account the seams between the sheets. If everything is perfect, then it will be enough to simply cut a strip of mosaic of the required width from the sheet. If there is an unsightly gap left, there are 2 ways to remove it:
- Cut the sheet into strips and gradually remove the undercut using the width of the seam. That is, we simply increase or decrease the width of each seam by fractions of a millimeter so that it is not noticeable.
- The second method is more labor-intensive - you will need to trim each mosaic using a grinder with a disc along the tile.

After completing all work, do not forget to wash the tool from any remaining glue. The next day you can continue to grout the joints.
The video shows how to lay mosaic tiles:

Grout

We unscrew the profile from the wall and remove the plastic crosses.
Using a foam sponge and warm water, clean the lining from any glue residue.
We dilute the grout according to the instructions.
I use an expensive but high-quality cement-based mixture: Litochrome Luxury. It costs about 2 times more than Ceresit, about 250 rubles per 2 kg. Sold in 35 color options, but to get the perfect shade you can mix several colors or tint the mixture.
I apply the grout with a rubber spatula. When it dries a little, I use a damp sponge to remove excess mixture from the mosaic. I do the final cleaning of plaque with a felt glove.

So, let's talk about tiling the walls. It's hardly any easier than tiling the floor, it's gravity that's against you.

But the result is worth the effort.

I present to you a few tips for working with mosaic tiles on paper, however, these rules apply to any other type of mosaic.

What was used:

Glass mosaic attached to a paper backing, which is then removed (not to be confused with the backing, this is not what it is).
Tile Adhesive
Serrated trowel
Spacers
Grout with sand
Darby
Tile scissors
Containers for mixing mortar and grout, sponges and scraps of fabric

What was done:

Step 1: Surface Preparation

Finishing a floor with tiles begins with making a supporting base from cement or fiber cement, the same applies to finishing the walls. If the tile application area is small, then you can get by with plasterboard or greenboard. For a larger area (as shown in the photographs) you will need a 12 mm fiber cement base.

Like drywall, such a slab must be cut and secured with screws.

The seams must be sealed to ensure a smooth surface. The smaller the tile size, the smoother the surface should be.

Sanding with sandpaper will make the surface even smoother.

Now I want to give you some advice on what you should do (unfortunately, I didn’t): Take a look at the tile you chose. If the tile is translucent, then 1). You will need white adhesive and 2). It is better to apply a layer of white primer to the wall. This won't take much time, but if the adhesive is spread perfectly, pieces of the wall won't be visible through the tiles.

Step 2: Study the features of the tiles and their placement

When the boxes of tiles first arrived, I happily rushed to unpack them, but when I opened them, I froze in bewilderment.

What to do with all this? Since I had previously worked with larger mosaic tiles that are mounted on a grid (at the back), this tile puzzled me.

You'll notice that I keep saying that this tile is secured with paper on the front side. Not from behind, and that's for a reason. Here is the back side of the tile, the one that will be attached to the wall.

The point is that the tile is translucent and the mesh will be visible. Also, this type of production is cheaper for the manufacturer, but it is more difficult to work with such tiles - they will be covered with a paper layer until the adhesive is completely dry. After everything has dried, you need to wet the paper a little and remove it. But at the moment we are still too far from that.

Let's talk now about tile placement. I repeat this every time - you can’t just stick tiles on the wall, you must first measure the wall (or part of the wall) and the sheets of tiles. When working with larger tiles, it is better to place them horizontally or vertically, but for small mosaic tiles it is better to do this from top to bottom. The molding will cover the edges.

Lay out the sheets of tiles...

And measure again. It is worth spending as much time on measurements as on the installation itself.

Step 3: Let's start styling!

Now it's time for the most important thing. At this stage you will need one or two putty knives, a serrated trowel, spacers (spacers) and a tile.

I hope that you have measured everything and marked out the order in which the tile sheets will be applied, now the mortar. For such a small tile, a very thin layer of adhesive is sufficient. I apply it with a small putty knife, because it was the first one that came to hand.

A larger knife will also work, perhaps it will do an even better job.

This is what the resulting adhesive looks like ready to be applied to the tiles.

Once the first part is installed, before moving on to the next section you will need these...

Small spacers. They must be located as close as possible to the existing grout joints between the tiles; visual inspection is also necessary.

Nothing else irritates as much as noticeable seams between sheets; this happens if you carelessly mark the location of the seams and end up making them of different sizes.

The advantage of tiles on paper is that you can make cuts between tiles to make the seams more even.

To trim irregularly shaped obstacles such as pipe holes, etc., use tile scissors.

Everything is simple here, insert the tile and cut it...

This is what happened

Since it is extremely difficult to make an ideal shape for such a small object, I advise you not to get carried away too much - grouting will help hide errors.

Step 4: Patience, more patience!

Once all the tiles have been applied, you need to wait until they dry before removing the paper.

You need to wait at least a couple of hours, or even better - overnight.

Step 5: Uncovering the Hidden Beauty (and Mistakes)

So, your patience has been tested, it’s time to make a big discovery. Wet the paper with a damp sponge.

After 5 minutes, go over the surface with the sponge again. After another couple of minutes, the paper will come off easily.

You may need to pull out a few tiles and then put them back in place, setting them straighter. Apply some adhesive to the tiles and attach them to the wall.

Once all the tiles are in place and dry, wipe the surface with a damp sponge to remove any remaining paper.

Step 6: A Little More Dirt

Here you are standing among pieces of tiles, remnants of adhesive, even your hair is dirty. And if you think at this moment that there will be no more dirt, then you are mistaken.

Now you have to smear mud on this beautiful wall. In fact, it's just grout. I'm more inclined to use sanded grout, but there are other types you can choose from depending on the type of tile and application method... although I think it can be used anywhere.

Prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the package, or by eye, until the consistency resembles toothpaste.

Black toothpaste.

You always need less water than you might think, so it's best to follow the instructions on the package.

Then we apply this mass to the wall.

To do this, it is convenient to use a smoothing iron. It consists of a trowel with a small amount of foam or rubber on the surface, which helps the grout penetrate the seams.

Usually, to clean the surface from grout, I do the same thing... You need to wait 30 minutes, then wipe the surface 1-2 times with a damp sponge, rinsing it often. Then repeat the procedure after another hour.

After everything has dried, walk over the surface with a dry towel to remove any grout deposits.

Step 7: Now you can admire the result

So, the job is finished. After 1-2 days, when the grout has dried, you can apply the sealant. It is especially necessary in rooms with high humidity.

Now you know how to implement this project, you can start immediately!

In this publication, we will look at which adhesive is best to choose for mosaics, depending on the type of mosaic and the type of base.

Mosaic glue. Which glue to choose?

We are often asked the question: “Which mosaic adhesive is best?” It is difficult to answer this question unequivocally. Now the market offers quite a lot of mosaic adhesives - white, gray, imported, domestic, cement, ready-made, reactive, etc.

In this publication, we will try to understand the main differences between the main types of mosaic glue, and also decide which mosaic glue to buy to solve certain problems.

Let's start with the fact that the choice of mosaic adhesive primarily depends on the type of mosaic.

Ceramic mosaic.

Almost any cement adhesive is suitable for ceramic mosaics. When laying ceramic mosaics, the choice of adhesive largely depends on the type and type of base (absorbent or non-absorbent, simple or complex). Since ceramic mosaics have a dense, opaque structure, both white and gray tile adhesives are suitable for gluing ceramic mosaics. If you need to glue ceramic mosaics onto a stable mineral surface (cement screed or plaster, absorbent concrete, etc.), then you can use any tile adhesive. And if you need to glue ceramic mosaics onto a non-absorbent or deformable base (waterproofing, underfloor heating system or old tiles), then you need to use elastic tile adhesives, for example, or.

Mosaic made of natural stone.

The choice of adhesive for natural stone mosaics primarily depends on the type of stone. Some types of natural marble may change color when exposed to water for a long time. If the stone is sensitive to moisture, then you should choose a quick-hardening cement adhesive for tiles, for example, or. Such glues quickly “assimilate” the mixing water, which significantly reduces the contact of the stone with the alkaline wet glue solution. Or, for stone types that are sensitive to prolonged exposure to moisture, you can use reactive tile adhesives, such as polyurethane tile adhesive,, or. Such glues do not contain water at all, so contact of the stone with moisture is completely excluded.

If natural stone is not sensitive to prolonged contact with moisture, then the choice of glue, as in the case of ceramic mosaics, will be largely determined by the type of base. Almost all adhesives class C2, according to EN 12004, are suitable for laying natural stone that is not susceptible to moisture on stable mineral surfaces. And on non-moisture-absorbing substrates, as in the case of ceramic mosaics, you need to use elastic adhesives.

Glass mosaic.

Which glue to choose for glass mosaic? Of course white! Glass mosaic, if it has a transparent or translucent structure, allows us to see the base on which it is laid. Therefore, if you glue such a mosaic onto gray tile adhesive, then a gray rough base made of glue will be visible through the mosaic. This will certainly not add to the aesthetics of your cladding. Therefore, for translucent and transparent glass mosaics, white adhesives are chosen. This may be a white cement-based tile adhesive, such as , or other white flexible cementitious adhesives with high wettability characteristics. In particular, any white polyurethane-based adhesives (Keralastic T, Litoelastic, SuperFlex Eco) and ready-made water-based tile adhesives (,) are suitable for laying glass mosaics. If the glass mosaic is not transparent (for example, “Chinese” paper-based mosaic, which is often used in swimming pools), then elastic adhesive of any color, including gray, can be used to install it.

If you plan to lay glass mosaics in a bathroom or swimming pool, then higher demands are placed on the quality of the glue. Since in the bathroom and pool, as a rule, there is non-absorbent moisture, it turns out that you need to glue one non-absorbent material (glass mosaic) to another (waterproofing). In this case, the tile adhesive must have maximum wettability and elasticity. To do this, liquid latex is added to the glue - a plasticizer, for example or. Such additives are mixed with water to prepare cement mortar, or completely replace water. There are cement adhesives that contain enough polymers to “convert” the mixing water into latex, for example “H40 Tenaflex Eco” or “Flexbond bianco”.

To glue glass mosaics in a swimming pool and bathroom to waterproofing, if the cost of the glue is not a determining factor, use epoxy glue, for example, and or polyurethane-based glue - “Litoelastic”.

Often craftsmen use epoxy grout to glue glass mosaics, especially on a paper backing (it can be used as an adhesive - R2T, according to EN 12004). The advantage of this installation is that there is no need to clean out glue residue from the seams between the mosaic chips. Anyone who has cleaned the seams of a mosaic on a paper backing from glue residue has experienced the loss of individual mosaic elements. When using reactive grout, such as Litochrom Starlike or, you do not need to clean the glue from the seams, because the seams are already half grouted. This method is especially good for laying glass mosaics on a paper backing in a swimming pool.

For gluing mosaics on a mesh base in a pool or bathroom, you can choose any highly elastic tile adhesive. Since the mosaic pieces are held together by mesh, when cleaning the seams, the mosaic chips are less likely to fall out. But it is worth noting that in swimming pools it is recommended to use mosaics on a paper backing, because... It is in this case that maximum and void-free contact of the mosaic with the tile adhesive is achieved.

So what kind of mosaic glue should you buy?

As is clear from the publication, it is not necessary to buy white tile adhesive for mosaics. White glue should be used when the surface on which it is laid can be seen through the mosaic - mosaic glue. In other cases, the color of the glue is not an important criterion. The main thing you should pay attention to when choosing a mosaic adhesive is its wettability and elasticity, since these parameters determine how reliably the adhesive will “stick” to non-moisture-absorbing waterproofing and glass mosaics. The most modern and universal adhesives are polyurethane and epoxy, but they significantly exceed cement compositions in cost. Therefore, if you do not have a swimming pool, then you can safely lay the mosaic on cement compounds - it will be no less reliable. Ready-made adhesives should be chosen for laying mosaics in places with low load and intermittent contact with water - kitchen splashbacks, bathroom walls, corridors, etc. Otherwise, the choice of mosaic glue is no different from. This choice always depends on:

The type and structure of the base on which the mosaic is laid
The type and structure of the mosaic (what materials it is made of, what kind of substrate)
Under what conditions will the mosaic cladding be used (swimming pool, street, “warm floor”, etc.)
How urgently do you need to hand over the object (quick-hardening glue or not)

Mosaics made on the wall or floor become a decoration for any room. If you think that laying mosaics with your own hands is an unrealistic task, then you are very mistaken. Of course, many masters will say that doing such work is difficult. In some ways they are right, but if you have a little effort, patience and a sense of taste, then making a mosaic in your home is quite possible. You can use the material in this article as instructions.

Preparing the foundation

Laying a mosaic (made from special tiles or individual elements) is a creative and challenging activity. Here you need to show more diligence and accuracy than when laying ordinary tiles. Increased demands are placed on almost everything.

So, when laying mosaics, you need to be more responsible in preparing the base. If, when installing a tile covering, you can slightly adjust the location of the tiles using the thickness of the adhesive mass, then this will not work here. Any bump or depression will be immediately visible. Moreover, this requirement applies to any plane. Whether you are laying mosaics on the ceiling, floor or wall, the quality of the surface must be ideal. In popular parlance, it’s like “under the wallpaper.”

When preparing the surface, pay special attention to plumbness and horizontality. If the error is more than 1-2 mm for every three meters, then unsightly areas may form at the ends. This requirement especially applies to laying mosaics from small tiles, where all the irregularities will be especially noticeable.

To improve adhesion and reduce the porosity of the base, the entire surface must be primed. It is advisable to do this in several layers. If you use transparent tiles in your “picture”, then it is worth covering the surface with tinting. Otherwise, the heterogeneity of the base will be visible through the transparent elements.

When laying mosaics in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms, saunas, etc.), it is necessary to apply another layer. It will consist of waterproofing impregnation.

We carry out the markings

Before you start laying the mosaic, you need to carry out preliminary markings. This is especially important if you are carrying out such work for the first time. First, make a sketch. In this case, you should pay attention to some nuances:

if the room has external corners (boxes or slopes), then the drawing should start from them;
if there is any decorative element on the wall (mirror or panel), then it also becomes a priority;
try to remove all possible trimming in inconspicuous corners (for example, the corner of the front door).

After the paper sketch is ready, it is transferred to the wall. If the mosaic is laid on the floor, then it is advisable to make a “dry” layout.

Apply glue

Now let's figure out how to glue. The adhesive mass must be selected carefully. As a rule, special glue is produced for mosaics. It can be either tinted or white. Here the choice will depend on the tile used (transparent or not). Also pay attention to the base material.

When installing, it is worth remembering that the glue hardens quite quickly. After just twenty minutes, a film forms on its surface. Therefore, do not apply a large amount at once. It is better to go through no more than one square at a time.

The glue is applied using a smooth spatula. The layer should not exceed four millimeters. Then they pass over the surface of the adhesive mass with a notched spatula (tooth height no more than 3 mm).

Some professionals apply a thin layer to the tile itself. This ensures a more reliable connection. But such a layer should be minimal so that the mosaic looks even.

We install the mosaic itself

If you know how to install regular tiles, then you will quickly figure out how to lay mosaic tiles. The principle is very similar, there are only some nuances.

So, for example, ordinary tiles (when laid on walls) are mounted from below. The bottom row will serve as a holding base for the top row. There is no need to do this with mosaic tiles. They weigh little, so you can start installation from any place you have planned.

It is better to start your first installation tests from an inconspicuous place. This way you can practice a little and do the main part better and more beautifully.

The mosaic tile is placed against the adhesive mixture and pressed lightly. Here you should carefully look at the seams. Using plastic crosses (as is the case with ordinary tiles) is unlikely to work. Everything needs to be done “by eye”.

If, when installing on walls, the glue does not set immediately, the tiles may move a little. In this case, small cloves will help. They are inserted into the seam and hold the material in place.

As soon as the square is laid, you need to walk over it with a plastic pad with a nozzle made of elastic material. Use it to lightly tap the entire finished surface. At the same time, your actions should be moderately strong and short.

Half an hour after laying the square, it is necessary to remove the protruding excess glue. This is done carefully using a stick or a brush with hard bristles. If the mosaic tiles have a paper coating, then you need to get rid of it on the day of installation. To do this, wet it a little and remove it. It is not advisable to postpone this work until the next day. Difficulties may arise with cured glue.

We produce grout

Grouting should begin a day after installation. For this work, a rubber spatula is used. Before grouting, inspect all seams. Remove any protruding adhesive residue and debris from them. The grouting itself is done with strokes in different directions. The last pass must be perpendicular to the previous one.

After applying the grout, excess must be removed. If you use waterproof material, then this is done immediately. The water-soluble grout is allowed to sit for 10-15 minutes, then it is removed with a damp cloth. Remaining plaque can be removed at the end of the day using a soft rag. At this point all work is completed.

Video

Photo

Modern technologies have come a long way from the times when decorating and finishing various areas of the interior was a labor-intensive and very complex process. Today, you can decorate the walls in your bathroom or kitchen in a matter of days, with a minimum of effort. If you see a nice small ornament in the future design of your home, then choose mosaic. The technology of arranging miniature squares on a grid allows you to glue large fragments at once, rather than individual elements. To get a beautiful pattern or a special panel, it is important to know the basic rules for tiling with small tiles.

Features of the material

Small squares (on average 1x1 cm in size), located at right angles, are mosaics. When made, the tiles are placed on a mesh backing to form a large square or rectangle. The main feature of this material is that it is quite flexible and suitable for decorating relief walls, corners, bends or mini parapets. In addition, entire canvases are easy to combine with each other. Using the right adhesive and grout, you can achieve excellent results.

Subtleties and features of the process: laying mosaic tiles

The special but simple process of laying new mosaic tiles begins with preparing the surface. Main stages of preparation:

Cleansing. Clean the walls from the previous coating. It is necessary to remove the remaining layer of old tiles, paint, wallpaper or other facing material. In a new home, it is enough to clean the surface from dust and construction debris.
Leveling the surface before laying. It is necessary to replace the layer of plaster, leveling the walls. If the level differences are too noticeable, then plasterboard sheets are attached.
Use a special solution (a primer with a special deep penetration composition) for better adhesion of the adhesive mixture. The final surface after treatment should be fairly rough and completely dry.

It is important to have a ready-made design project that takes into account the location of plumbing, lighting and decor. General data will help you correctly calculate the required number of mosaic elements and consumables.

Which mosaic tile to choose?

Mosaic cladding is not a new word in renovation. This method has been known since the times of Ancient Rome. But now small elements are collected on a mesh, with which you can quickly glue a large area. Affordable cost, high performance and aesthetic properties make mosaic on mesh more and more in demand. To choose the type of tile you need to consider:

type of room (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, shower, etc.);
location (use outside or inside);
creating a general background or section (for example, a decorative panel).

Modern cladding production offers customers a large selection of mesh tiles made from various raw materials. Each type has its own number of advantages:

Ceramic can be glossy (glazed) or matte. Its properties are similar to standard tiles. It is often used because ceramics are low maintenance and have a high level of resistance to moisture and heat. Ceramic fabric on a mesh is easy to glue; the simplest adhesive mixture is suitable for it.
Glass is less popular due to its higher price. But the base of transparent and painted glass creates an incredible effect. When laying, such a coating requires a special solution that will not spoil the shade of the mosaic. When caring for glass elements, do not use harsh abrasive products that can ruin the appearance (they must be protected from scuffs and scratches).
Metal tiles are made of stainless steel or aluminum, which are perfect for modern and high-tech styles. Its price is higher than the previous ones, but it also looks many times more interesting. Strict metal squares cannot be placed on an uneven surface, otherwise the entire effect will be lost. It is also important to choose a special type of grout and glue for this material.
Natural stone is chosen for eco-style interiors. Particularly impressive is a panel made of such elements with a natural plot. The standard solution combines well with natural ingredients.

When it comes to tile joints, it is important to consider not only the composition, but also the color of the grout. This could be a contrast of shades to create depth in the seams or, on the contrary, a tone-on-tone selection that visually expands the space. Special mixtures with glitter are an excellent alternative to grouting under a glass base.

How to choose a high-quality adhesive solution?

The composition of the adhesive base must be ideally combined with the facing material. Therefore, the main criterion when choosing is the type of material from which the small elements are made.

Cement based mixture

The standard composition of tile adhesive includes 5 parts cement, 1 part sand and another 10% (of the total mass) of plasticizer. The last component is lime milk or washing powder, which perfectly combines bulk substances. This mixture can be dark gray or white. It is not recommended for use under glass or metal tiles and should not be applied to drywall.

Adhesive made from polymer components

If you plan to lay tiles in an area with a high level of moisture (bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, bathhouse), then choose an acrylic-based mixture. Polymer components have high quality properties: they dry very quickly, after hardening they become like stone or very dense plastic. In addition, you can add paint to the mixture and get any shade. The acrylic mixture does not need to be prepared, just stirred. The price for such properties is high.

Epoxy adhesive

A worthy competitor to the acrylic mixture for installation is a mixture of epoxies. The finished substance includes epoxy powder or resin and a special hardener liquid. The two-component composition creates a strong, dense and at the same time transparent, like glass, base. Any type of tile can be glued to it. This product is expensive, but its exceptional properties surpass other mixtures. It securely fixes the tiles in any area and removing such cladding during subsequent repairs will not be easy.

Laying mosaic tiles on a grid

Materials and equipment

Select in advance the type of mosaic according to the interior design project and buy it in sufficient quantities (based on the calculation table of the coverage area).
Choose glue from a range of ready-made ones or make your own.
Stock up on primer (liquid for impregnating the plaster under the glue).
Buy two types of spatula - wide and serrated.
Prepare a container for the solution.
To roll the sheets, you will need a rubber roller (or silicone); you can also use a squeegee or rubber grater.
A container of clean water and moisture-absorbing towels for cleaning.
Tape measure, building level, laser for marking, pencil and meter ruler.

Preparation and marking of surfaces

determine the number of whole sheets (start counting from the top so that the cut fragments are in the area near the floor);
create a lower horizontal border from which you can start gluing large fragments;
During installation, all parallel straight lines must be adjusted using the center line and checked with a level so that the whole pattern does not move at an angle.

How to glue mosaics on a wall

The nuances of installation contain simple rules, adhering to which you can really get a high-quality result. Before gluing the fragments, you need to build a clear algorithm of actions:

prime the plastered surface and allow to dry;
make precise markings taking into account all angles, bends and plumbing locations;
start gluing the canvases.

Determine the largest areas and those surfaces that come into view first. You need to start gluing mosaic fragments from them. When gluing, move from bottom to top, from the middle to the corners. You won't need strips like you would when laying regular tiles. After all, mosaic tiles are lighter, and moreover, their elements are fixed by a mesh, which means they will not move out. To ensure that the sheets lay in an even layer, do not press or press them. It can only be fixed with a roller.

Laying algorithm

Apply the glue mixture in an even layer to the surface, distributing the material with wave-like movements (it is recommended to apply liquid glue to a covering area of 5-10 canvases).
Apply a thin layer of the adhesive mixture to the mesh.
Lay the canvas along vertical and horizontal lines.
Roll over the sheet with a rubber roller to secure.
After laying each row, check the parallels using a level (bubble or laser).

Joining mosaics

The final stage of laying mosaic panels is jointing or applying a layer of grout. This is required to protect the space between the tiles from moisture, preventing the destruction of the bottom layer. It also creates an aesthetically pleasing finish to the decor. When applying the grout mixture, it is important to take into account the difference in cell depth between individual elements and entire sheets. Excess grout can be easily removed with soapy water.

Mosaic on a building mesh is a good option for quick, beautiful and durable repairs. See many design options on the TILES FROM FACTORY website. We also invite you to visit the comfortable Kerama Marazzi store in Moscow at Budyonny Ave., 27.