home · Other · Cladding the basement of a private house. Cladding the basement of a house - finishing options with various materials Basement of a house is a budget option

Cladding the basement of a private house. Cladding the basement of a house - finishing options with various materials Basement of a house is a budget option

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In order for the finishing of the basement of a private house to last as long as possible, it is necessary to choose not only aesthetically attractive, but also practical materials intended for use in a humid environment. It will be better if they can withstand mechanical impacts.

The base of the building takes on a different appearance after cladding

The part of the foundation that protrudes beyond the ground usually carries not only an architectural, but also a functional load. With its help, it is possible to raise the walls of a building to a certain height, leveling and protecting them from negative influences. The distance from the ground to the top edge should not be less than 40 cm.

The plinth can be erected using:

  • monolithic reinforced concrete;
  • building brick of a suitable brand;
  • ready-made reinforced concrete blocks.

Metal sheets can be attached directly to horizontal purlins using self-tapping screws. The presence of additional elements in the form of junction strips allows you to improve the appearance of the cladding.

Fiber cement panels for finishing the basement of private houses

The products are made from cement and wood fibers using hot pressing. The outer surface of the panels is laminated or coated with a layer of protective compound. In terms of design capabilities, panels are a promising option, as they can imitate other materials.

A photo of the finishing of the basement of a private house demonstrates the aesthetic capabilities of the presented products. In the production of fiber cement panels, dyes with increased resistance to ultraviolet radiation are used, so the colors do not fade even after prolonged use.

Finishing the side surfaces with decorative plaster

Not very costly in financial terms, but quite a labor-intensive method of facing the base is plastering. First, the surface of the structure is leveled using a cement-sand mixture, after which a decorative layer is applied on top. If necessary, dried plaster is painted with moisture-resistant paints.

High-quality has the following advantages:

  • resistance to temperature changes;
  • immunity to ultraviolet radiation;
  • increased moisture resistance;
  • possibility of tinting;
  • long operational period;
  • efficiency.

Note! Cement, acrylic and silicone plasters are suitable for external use. As for gypsum compositions, they should only be used for work inside dry rooms.

The basement of the house performs not so much a decorative function as a practical one. In many cases, it serves to reduce heat loss (it is specially insulated), and also prevents the spread of atmospheric and underground moisture to the walls of the house. It also transfers the load from the walls to the foundation - if the foundation is strip or slab. Therefore, the cladding of the basement of a house should be not only beautiful, but also functional. The finishing material is also selected in accordance with this task.

When to start finishing the basement

It is best to finish the base after the blind area around the house has been made. In this case, the finishing material will hang over the path. As a result, even the most slanting rain or streams of water flowing down the walls will not be able to get between the wall and the blind area - the water hits the path at a distance of several centimeters from the joint. It is through this joint that water penetrates to the foundation, bringing dampness and other problems.

You need to start cladding the basement of the house after the blind area around the house has been made

One more thing. Many people are thinking about whether to insulate the basement or not. If you want to save on heating, the answer is to insulate it, just like the blind area. The unit for insulation and cladding of the base - one of the options - is shown in the photo below.

When installing an insulated base, EPS boards are laid under the finishing

When using the basement as a residential floor, there are no questions regarding insulation, since the answer is clear - insulate it, of course. But even if you don’t have a subfloor, heating costs will be much lower, and the floor in the house will become much warmer.

How to cover the basement of a house

There are a lot of materials for finishing the base. Main requirements: moisture resistance, frost resistance, strength. The following materials satisfy these requirements:

  • Natural stones (flagstone) sawn into plates or chipped, so-called “torn stone”:
    • sandstone (plastic);
    • granite;
    • marble;
    • slate;
    • dolomite;
    • shugnit.
  • Small cobblestone.
  • Large river pebbles.
  • Clinker tiles (clinker bricks).
  • Paving slabs.
  • Porcelain tiles.
  • Finishing brick.
  • Facade panels, basement siding, PVC panels (these are all names of the same material).
  • Plaster (decorative and “under a fur coat”).
  • Profiled sheeting.

Some of them cost a lot, some are insignificant, but all of them can be used. The material is chosen based on financial capabilities and previously used finishing materials - the aesthetic component also plays an important role. The technologies for finishing plinths with different materials will be discussed.

Preparation and insulation

First of all, if the existing base is uneven, its surface is leveled with plaster. The solution for plastering the plinth is cement-sand: for 1 part of cement (Portland cement M 400) take 4 parts of clean construction sand, preferably river sand. For greater plasticity, you can add a little lime or liquid soap (50-80 g per bucket of solution). The solution should be of medium thickness so that it does not creep off the wall. There is another option - to use a special composition. For example, like the one in the video.

If tiles, stone or other similar material are then laid, after leveling the mortar, notches are made on its surface with the tip of a trowel (trowel). They are applied in the form of a grid over the entire surface. These shallow grooves will provide the necessary support for the finish.

If the base is insulated, notches are not needed. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) or polystyrene boards are glued directly onto the plastered surface. They are light and adhere well to glue. Their surface is coated with diluted tile adhesive and pressed against the plaster. Finishing materials are then attached to the surface prepared in this way.

Related article: Apartment design 70 sq.m.

Painting, plastering and “fur coat”

In principle, if the plaster is well leveled, after the solution has dried, the surface can be painted and stop there. This is an inexpensive but viable option. If you used façade paint that is intended for outdoor use, the base will look good for a couple of years. Then you will have to remove the old paint and paint it again to maintain the appearance.

The next method is to apply a layer of decorative plaster on top of ordinary plaster. And again, choose those formulations that are intended for external use. They can be tinted in the desired color or taken colored ones. The only negative is that plasters are often porous and splashes of dirt that fall on the walls during bad weather have to be cleaned off with a brush and sometimes with detergent.

Types of decorative plaster for finishing the base: beautiful and relatively inexpensive

The method of finishing the base “like a fur coat” is still popular in some areas. This is when the solution is not applied in an even layer, but in small fragments. Previously, they did this with a broom made of twigs. They dipped it into a liquid solution and hit the stick with the handle so that the splashes flew onto the wall. This is how they made “fur coat” - a finish with a torn surface. Today there are special devices for applying plaster, powered by a compressor. With their help, it is easier to do such finishing.

Finishing the basement of a house using materials in the form of slabs or tiles is technologically more difficult. To prevent it from falling off, you need to know some subtleties.

Read how to cover a house with bricks here.

How to fix porcelain tiles or clinker tiles

If heavy materials such as porcelain tiles or clinker bricks are simply placed on glue, on a plastered surface with grooves, perhaps they will stick normally. And they can even stand for some time. Even several years. But then they will begin to fall off along with the solution. Especially in places where there are no grooves or they are of insufficient depth. To improve adhesion, you can apply a layer of impregnation that improves adhesion (grip), but this is not a guarantee, especially if the material is heavy.

The same picture will happen if you glue the materials directly onto the insulation. The surface is smooth, easy to glue. But after a while the finish will fall off. Faster than with a plastered surface. There is a video about this.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to secure a metal painting mesh, preferably galvanized. It is secured with dowels, placing a piece of galvanized steel on the dowel-nail, the size of which is larger than the size of the cell. They are attached at the top, bottom and in a checkerboard pattern in the middle. This creates a reliable basis for material of any weight.

Glue is applied to the base and to the tiles. On the tile, remove it with a notched trowel, put it in place, tap the trowel handle and put it in place, leveling the plane. The distance between the tiles is maintained using crosses, only their thickness is taken to be significant 3-5 mm.

In general, the installation technology is similar to laying tiles. The only difference is that the glue must be special for outdoor use. The second difference: finishing materials for the plinth begin to be laid from below: they are heavy and need support. You rest the bottom row on the blind area, the second row on it, etc.

Finishing the base of the house with natural stone (shell rock, granite, dolomite, slate)

No matter how attractive artificial shiny surfaces may seem, rough stone for some reason evokes great sympathy. But laying a rubble foundation is difficult and not everyone can do it well enough for a house to stand on it. But anyone can decorate a finished monolithic or prefabricated foundation with natural stone with their own hands, especially if at least part of the work on building a house was done personally.

It is clear that no one will attach whole stones: the finish will be too heavy, and very voluminous. That’s why they came up with the idea to slab or chop stones. Depending on the technology, the result is either a smooth “flagstone” - with almost smooth surfaces, or a “torn stone” with an uneven front part. Sometimes these materials are cut into identical rectangles, sometimes they are left in the form of uneven plates, but in any case it is natural stone and the decoration of the base of the house from it turns out to be beautiful and waterproof.

Related article: How to make a high-quality table yourself?

There is this material made from expensive stones, for example - marble, there is cheaper - slate, dolomite, shugnit, lemezite, granite, etc. They look very impressive. Especially if it is torn stone, although flagstone sometimes looks no worse.

Part of the offer of natural finishing stone in a specialized store

The preparation of the surface will be exactly the same: it is best to fill the plastered plinth with a painting mesh, and then lay the stone plates on it with glue. If they are smooth - natural stone with processed edges - the laying technology will be exactly the same as described above.

If the stone has torn edges, finishing the base of the house becomes more difficult: it is necessary to select plates of such a shape that the seams are not too large. When using this option for finishing stone, you will need a grinder with a stone disc: most likely you will have to file down the plates of the lower and upper row. Correction will also be needed when decorating the corners. See the video for an example of this technology.

There is a second way. The plastered surface of the base is first coated with a compound to improve adhesion (adhesion), then fragments of finishing are installed on it with glue. They are fixed in a given position using scraps of the same stone or pieces of materials of the required size. The seams remain unfilled. After the glue has “set,” the seams are filled with a thin solution from a construction syringe, rubbing and tearing out as necessary.

In any case, any glue that gets on the finish must be removed in a timely manner. It will be very difficult to do this with a frozen one, and the appearance of the glue is far from attractive.

Sometimes, for a clearer design, the seams between the stone plates are painted with dark paint. Then the surface is coated with protective impregnation. It gives the stone a slight shine and also often increases its water-repellent properties.

For an example of cladding a plinth with natural stone using the second technology, see the following video.

About covering a house with siding is written here.

Facing with boulders or small cobblestones

It is not necessary to buy a boulder or cobblestone. You can collect it on a river or on a pebble beach at sea. Rolled stones are chosen to be flatter - round ones are more difficult to “mount”. The procedure and all other subtleties are almost the same as in the case of finishing with natural stone. The only difference is that these stones must be washed in water and detergent before use. Firstly, the water in our ponds may have oils in it and need to be removed, and secondly, there may be clay or algae in it which can cause the finish to fall off.

To make everything look organic, you can first lay out a “picture” of cobblestone cladding on the path next to the place where you will cladding the base. They have different shades and their random combinations are not always attractive. By laying everything out side by side you will have an idea of ​​what the end result will be.

Watch the video about the features of finishing the plinth with cobblestones.

How to install plastic (PVC) plinth panels

This type of finishing is called differently: basement or facade panels, basement siding. They have a varied appearance: to match different types of stone, tile, brick.

To install PVC panels on the base, you need to assemble a frame. It is made from wooden beams 50*50 mm. Since the finishing will be outdoors, the wood must be protected with impregnations that prevent rotting and protect against pests.

, as a rule, protrudes above the ground. This part must be decorated not only for aesthetic, but also for practical purposes. We will look at the six most popular options with detailed installation instructions.

A strip foundation is a concrete mixture with metal or crushed stone and gravel filler. Firstly, such a surface looks unattractive, even if its edges are perfectly smooth. And they are rarely even, depending on what formwork was used when pouring. Usually there are traces from shields and.


Based on this, we designate the tasks of finishing the plinth:

  • it must protect the pouring surface from the scorching rays of the sun and winds;
  • the cladding hides not only all the imperfections of the foundation, but also the layer;
  • and finally, the decorative cladding should be consistent with the overall look and decorate the building.

Basics of self-finishing the basement of a private house

Before we talk about how to cover the base of a house from the outside, let's focus on the basics. First, installation of the cladding can be dry or wet. In the first case, the material is attached to or directly to the concrete surface using fasteners. The second option requires the installation of lathing and the use of building mixtures.

The second important point is that you need to take into account the climate of your region.

It is important that the casing of the base does not absorb water and does not allow it to pass to the surface. Another nuance is that the cladding should not lose its qualities under the influence of reagents used in winter.

Advice! Taking into account the operating conditions of the facing material, its choice must be approached with full responsibility, trusting trusted manufacturers who guarantee the quality and durability of the product.

Features of the selection and use of natural stone for cladding the base

Natural stone is considered the most respectable and expensive finishing material. Construction professionals recommend not using loose rocks, such as shell rock and limestone, to decorate the base. They will soon lose their presentable appearance.

Dense frost-resistant material, preferably dark in color, is suitable for this purpose.


Igneous gabbro and granite are best suited in this regard.

Important! When finishing with natural stone, an important condition is reliable sealing of joints and seams. If defects are allowed, moisture will seep through the cladding and destroy the base.

Features of choosing natural stone for exterior decoration

Natural stone must match in color and texture. But besides this, there are other requirements. If the stones themselves are very heavy, they need additional fasteners for strong fixation. It is also important to know that silicate rocks (quartzite and sandstone) are incompatible with carbonate rocks (marble, limestone). Their chemical components react with each other. The result is gradual mutual destruction.

Master class on plinth cladding with natural stone

Now let's see how the whole process looks in practice.

Illustration Description of action

A metal mesh must be secured to the surface of the base. It will firmly fix the solution.

Pre-lay out the torn stones for the plinth on the ground in the order in which you will place them on the vertical surface. Natural stone does not have two identical parts, so you need to assemble the cladding like putting together a puzzle.

The parts that will be on the bottom and top need to be cut so that there is a straight line. Use a special stone cutting wheel for this.

To cover the base with natural stone, prepare a solution of sand and. The consistency should be quite dense. It is better to wet the stones a little before installation.

To form gaps between stones, insert wooden or stone choppers. Start laying from bottom to top.

After the stones are firmly fixed to the base, remove the chokes and fill the gaps with mortar.

The nuances of facing the base with artificial stone

Artificial stone will cost you much less than natural stone. This feature attracts many developers. In addition, the artificial material has regular geometric shapes, and this greatly simplifies the laying. All you need to do is trim the tiles a little in the corners using a grinder.

Attractive with a variety of shades, shapes and textures:

This stone has less weight compared to natural stone, so less mortar is required. Modern artificial materials are not inferior to natural ones in moisture resistance and durability. Their only drawback is their slightly unnatural appearance. But now you can find collections that can only be distinguished upon closer inspection.

How to choose an artificial stone for a plinth

Don't try to buy the cheapest material. As a rule, its quality leaves much to be desired. It is best to use stones cast in silicone molds; they most accurately imitate the natural texture. Before paying for the shipment, study the color of the stones: the paint should not bleed into other shades. The stones should not have holes or cracks or inclusions of foreign particles.

The inside of the stones should have grooves for adhesion to the mortar, and the edges should have clear contours for quality joints on the wall.


Advice! Take cladding collections that contain corner stones. This will greatly simplify installation.

Video instructions for finishing the plinth with artificial stone

The technology for decorating a facade with artificial stone is not much different from working with natural stone. But there are some nuances, and you can learn about them in this video - how to finish the basement of a house with your own hands:

What is the finishing of the base with plastic panels to look like stone?

Plastic can now easily compete with natural materials. Modern components make it strong and durable. This material quite successfully imitates natural stone, and the ease of installation allows even a beginner to decorate the facade.


Advice! When choosing plastic panels for outdoor use, give preference to well-known brands. Cheap goods quickly fade and crumble due to temperature changes.

How to make the cladding of the base around the house with your own hands from plastic base panels - details in this video:

Finishing the base with siding and its nuances

Siding can be made of vinyl, polyvinyl chloride or propylene. All three of these varieties are suitable for decorating a plinth, as they are resistant to external influences and temperature changes. There is also metal siding on sale, but it is the least suitable because it is not resistant to prolonged exposure to moisture.


Learn more about how to decorate the base of a house with siding in this video tutorial:

Using facing tiles for the basement of a house

If you have not yet decided how to decorate the basement of your house inexpensively and beautifully, pay attention to the facing tiles. Not all tiles are suitable for outdoor use. It should have a non-porous structure that does not absorb moisture. You can choose the color and shape of the material that best matches the design of the facade.

An interesting point: it is not at all necessary to decorate the base with thick tiles. A standard thickness is sufficient, and there is no need to further strengthen the base.


The only drawback of this design is that it is not possible to additionally insulate the foundation with mineral wool. But there are other options, which we will discuss below.

For your information! For external tile laying, the temperature during work is important; it should not be lower than minus five degrees. Do not be fooled by advice to use winter mortars for masonry - the tiles will quickly fall off.

The photo shows options for finishing the basement of a private house with tiles:

Do-it-yourself finishing of the basement of a private house with tiles

If there is a need to additionally insulate the foundation, use this master class:

Illustration Description of action

Attach solid insulation, such as penoplex, to the outside of the foundation.

Install a metal mesh on the surface of the insulation. Secure it firmly with special fasteners.

Start laying with corner elements. Place them with the required gap of at least 1 cm.

After the corners, start fixing the remaining elements. Make light vibrating movements when pressing the tile so that the solution penetrates the mesh cells.

After the masonry has become, fill the seams with mortar and finish with a jointing tool.

Cheap and cheerful: finishing the basement of a private house with corrugated sheets

Is there an answer to the question of how to inexpensively decorate the basement of a house from the outside? For budget construction, corrugated sheets are an indispensable material. It will reliably protect the foundation from moisture and temperature, and also hide

An important element of the house is the plinth, which protects the lower part of the external walls of the building. It must be manufactured accordingly, and must be durable and resistant to various adverse factors. You should think carefully about how to finish the plinth so that it is stable and at the same time architecturally attractive. External walls below are most often finished with ceramic tiles or clinker, but sometimes decorative stone and other materials are also found.

How to veneer the basement of a house and with what?

The base is the upper part of the foundation wall, which is usually located above the ground level at a height of 30-50 cm. This height depends on the location of the house, the groundwater level and the design of the foundation. Higher plinths can be made in a foundation structure partially buried in the ground, if there is a basement.

The main function of the plinth is to protect the lower part of the external walls of the building from mechanical damage (to avoid damage to the waterproofing layer) and preserve the walls from high humidity. Wetting can be caused by heavy rain and melting snow, which is thrown directly under the walls of the building. If built correctly and lined correctly, the plinth will protect the walls from water and will be an attractive architectural accent to the home. However, in any case, you should avoid the accumulation of large snow drifts near the building.

Is the base recessed or protruding?

In most cases, typical private houses are built with a sinking base, which is hidden under the facade of the building. In this solution, water flowing from the façade will flow away from the wall, which will provide a higher degree of protection of the walls from moisture.


The decision on the type of base must be made already at the stage of constructing the foundation, in order to correctly construct the base and select individual layers of external walls.

In the case of a sinking base, a special profile is used that is resistant to rainwater and protects the lower part of the house from mechanical damage and moisture.

In the case of thermal insulation of external walls with mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards, you can also use special starter strips located in the lower protruding part of the facade.


A protruding base is performed less frequently. However, sometimes it can be an interesting architectural element of a building. In the case of a plinth protruding from the facade of the building, its upper part must be reinforced with appropriately selected steel profiles or ceramic tiles.

It is important that the height difference be made by approximately 6-10%, which ensures a smooth outflow of rainwater without its deposition on the wall (facade). In no case should the upper surface of the plinth be horizontal, without a slope, as this will quickly lead to dampness of the walls and damage to the facade at the point of its connection with the plinth.

If we want to cover the entire base with decorative stone, we must choose its thickness correctly so that appropriate water drainage can be achieved.

The protection of the upper surface of the base should protrude approximately 2-5 cm, which will ensure that rainwater drains from the surface without causing dampness to the wall.

The least rare are plinths that are made flush with the wall, that is, in the same plane as it or a smooth façade right down to the ground. Such solutions must be designed individually and require very precise selection of all materials. It is important in this case to ensure proper execution of all façade cladding connections and the selection of durable and frost-resistant materials.

Ceramic tiles or clinker tiles are quite common materials for plinths. In this case, the frost resistance parameters of the finishing material are very important.

Make sure that the tiles have sufficient resistance to low temperatures in winter and have a water absorption of no more than 8% (for ceramic tiles). Materials that do not meet these requirements may be too fragile for finishing.

Ceramic and clinker tiles can be especially useful in the case of finishing a base that protrudes in relation to the plane of the building facade. Available in various thicknesses, shapes and designs.

For the strength of the base, the correct choice of glue is even more important. In this case, it is imperative to use elastic and frost-resistant high-quality glue to prevent individual tiles or even entire arrays from peeling off. The tiles must be glued to the plastered surface. Before gluing, it is recommended to lay a special mesh, which will increase the elasticity of the entire structure.


It is also necessary that the grout used is resistant to water and frost. In the case of clinker tiles, it is necessary to use adhesive and grout specifically designed for clinker, which protect against so-called fading (white spots on the surface of the clinker). There are also adhesives and grouts available in the market that are available in a variety of colors, allowing you to choose the color of your tile grout.

If you want to tile the basement of your home, you have a very wide range of colors and patterns to choose from, allowing you to match the finish harmoniously with the building's façade.

An important advantage of finishing with tiles or clinker is that such a surface is easy to keep clean, clean and wash without damage. The tiles are also resistant to mechanical damage, although to a lesser extent than surfaces finished with natural stone (which are more durable than ceramics or clinker).


If you want to cover the base with stone, you should keep in mind that this is a very labor-intensive and therefore more expensive method than finishing with ceramic tiles or basic plaster. This is due to the fact that the correct choice of stone is necessary so that it is possible to maintain approximately equal joint thickness over the entire surface.

To perform this type of finishing, it is usually used:

  • large pebbles, although in this case difficulties arise in selecting flat stones close to each other in size;
  • crushed stone;
  • stone tiles.


Natural stone tiles are characterized by a very impressive external surface.

Stone tiles and stone are characterized by good rainwater drainage properties and the ability to easily keep the surface clean. The stone is also very resistant to mechanical damage, which will provide good protection for thermal insulation and the lower part of the external walls from moisture.

Due to the high labor intensity, finishing the plinth with natural stone is a relatively expensive solution. It's also worth making sure that this type of finish will look harmonious with the architecture of the rest of the house (stone is not always suitable for modern-style homes). In order to save money, the base is often finished with stone panels that imitate the pattern and pattern of natural stone.


There is also the possibility of finishing the surface of the plinth with plaster. For this purpose, acrylic and mineral plasters are used. Despite the fact that both types of plaster masses can be used for external walls, it is still not recommended to use acrylic plaster.


Acrylic and mineral plasters differ significantly in price (not in favor of mineral ones), but when choosing, you should not take into account only the price criterion.

Acrylic plasters come in a much wider range of colors and can also be painted without any major problems in any color you choose. In the case of mineral plasters available on the market, the choice of color is more limited.

Several years ago, mineral plasters were sold as a dry mixture, which had to be diluted with the required amount of water. In the absence of experience, it is not always possible to make the right solution. Now, however, they are available on the market in ready-made masses, which allows them to be applied directly from the container to the walls, as is the case with acrylic plaster. These masses are more expensive than dry mixes, but after adding the cost of labor, it often turns out that the cost will be the same. Ready-made compounds do not require as long drying and protection from water as dry plasters, which often require protection for approximately 3-5 days.

Mineral plasters are more durable than acrylic plasters. However, it should be noted that no plaster will be as resistant to impacts and dents as ceramic or stone.

The advantages of acrylic plasters are that they are more elastic and thus better suited for finishing surfaces exposed to variable temperatures. However, they are less resistant to moisture, which can accumulate in some places and damage the surface.

Whatever house is built, its entire structure is always based on on a solid foundation of one type or another. The importance of this structural element simply cannot be overestimated - it is it that takes on and distributes all the main weight loads. As a rule, the foundation always protrudes somewhat above the surface of the earth, forming the so-called basement part. And so the owner of the house inevitably faces the question - how to finish the base?

There are many options for solving this problem. But first of all, it’s worth figuring out - is finishing the base really necessary?

Why is the base covered?

Many home owners consider finishing the basement only as a special design touch in the overall exterior design of the house. The desire to make your home as beautiful as possible in appearance is quite understandable and justified, but it turns out that decorativeness in this case, although important, is still secondary. The main purpose of the plinth cladding is still different:

  • Even such a seemingly indestructible element of a building as the foundation needs protection from external influences. The cladding minimizes the impact of precipitation, high humidity, temperature changes, and direct sunlight on the base material.
  • The walls of the house at the basement level are most susceptible to contamination. The liquid dirt that falls on them always contains a lot of chemically aggressive substances that can cause erosion processes even in monolithic concrete.
  • The base should also be protected from the development of forms of biological life on its surface - mold stains, fungal colonies, insect nests.
  • If possible, it is necessary to provide buildings. At first glance, it’s a paradox: why insulate it if all the living spaces are located higher. However, this opinion is wrong:

— The base array itself becomes a very capacious cold accumulator, forming not even a “bridge”, but an entire “highway” for the penetration of low temperatures into the premises, from which even a conscientiously insulated floor of the first floor may not save. A significant part of the energy resources spent on heating will simply be wasted.

— The material from which the foundation is made, be it concrete, brick or stone, under the influence of low winter temperatures can freeze through, which will activate erosion processes and reduce its strength.

So, the conclusion is categorical - the base needs high-quality finishing for both operational and decorative reasons. What type of finish should I choose? This will depend on the design features of the building, the preferences of the homeowner, and his financial capabilities.

Types of materials used for finishing the base

Plastering and painting

One of the simplest finishing methods is to apply a layer of durable plaster to the surface of the base.


One of the simplest options is plastering the base

This finish will create a good sewn layer, characterized by high vapor permeability. The main advantage of this method is its low cost and availability of materials. Carrying out such work yourself or finding a master plasterer is usually not a big problem. And options giving There is a lot of decorative value for such a base.


  • Firstly, it can simply be painted with special durable facade paints. There is a wide range of shades on sale, and there is always the opportunity to choose the one most suitable for the intended exterior design of the building.
  • Secondly, an excellent solution would be to apply a finishing layer. A wide palette of colors and “rich” textures should satisfy any homeowner’s needs.

  • But that's not all. If you show your imagination, you can give even a simply plastered surface a very original look.

Stone? No, this is a plastered base...

In the photograph the base appears to be trimmed with stone. In fact, each “cobblestone” is nothing more than a pile of ordinary concrete mortar, molded by hand directly on the surface of the base.


…the “cobblestones” of which are sculpted by hand...

To sculpt such “stones” you don’t need any special skill - the main thing is to make a high-quality dense solution. Everything else is the imagination and efforts of the home craftsman. After hardening, all that remains is to decorate with dyes - and the plastered base will become indistinguishable from a stone one.


...and tinted with paint

The disadvantages of the technology for finishing the base with plaster include the comparative fragility of the coating - you will have to constantly monitor the condition of the applied layer and timely repair or update damaged, cracked areas.

Finishing the base with DSP panels with real stone and granite chips

Of course, stone is the best option for cladding the base. But the question of price stops many. Eskosell panels from the Komak Plat brand were developed especially for those who want to get a reliable and “expensive” plinth for many years.


DSP panels

You get natural stone for the price of plastic. How does this happen? The basis of the panels is a rigid DSP board, onto which chips of stone and granite are applied. The large size of the crumbs (5-6mm) qualitatively distinguishes the panel from plaster and analogues. Eskosell can provide your home with high-quality protection from mechanical damage and vandalism; they can easily withstand changes in temperature and humidity. A layer of epoxy adhesive compound and natural stone chips is not only home decor, but also a protective waterproof layer. It should also be taken into account that Eskosell is made from natural ingredients and does not emit various harmful substances even in the event of a fire.


Types of panels
Prices for cement bonded particle boards (CPB)

Cement particle boards (CSP)

Advantages of Eskosell round stone chip panels:

  • ECOLOGY: does not contain substances such as formaldehyde, asbestos, phenol, etc.
  • FIRE RESISTANT (G1): in case of fire they do not melt and do not release harmful components into the air;
  • FROST RESISTANT: installation can be carried out at any time of the year; they will not crack from frost or temperature changes;
  • MOISTURE RESISTANT: the front surface of the slab is moisture resistant;
  • BIORESISTANT: Eskosell prevents the appearance of fungus and mold;
  • RELIABILITY: will serve you and your home for more than 50 years;
  • VANDAL-RESISTANT: hard, hard, anti-vandal material;
  • EASY INSTALLATION: can be mounted without additional elements, using self-tapping screws or glue.

Eskosell chip panels

You can simply cover the base with panels using screws. Or glue it with foam glue. Unlike other Eskosell panels, they do not require additional elements for installation.

Finishing the base with natural stone

This type of finishing can certainly be called “elite”. A building with such a base always looks very advantageous, has excellent performance characteristics and will last a very long time.


Base with natural stone cladding - looks very rich

For cladding, specially prepared stone slabs are used - slabs, usually 20 ÷ 30 mm thick, which can have either a regular geometric shape or uneven edges, which gives a special decorative effect.


The surface of the stone can also be chosen to suit your taste - from polished to mirror-like to rough chipped.

For all the beauty and practicality of this type of base finishing, it also has many disadvantages:

  • Such cladding has a very significant weight, therefore it puts additional load on the foundation of the building, especially in cases where the base has a large surface area. If finishing with natural stone is planned, this is usually calculated at the building design stage.
  • Large mass of stone slabs predetermines the increased complexity of their installation. Thus, very often even the highest quality adhesive solution is not enough, so there is a need for additional reinforcement and the use of special stops.
  • Another significant drawback is, of course, the price of the material and the cost of installation work, which are not always available for independent execution.

Even the most inexpensive types of natural stone - shell rock or limestone, cost more than 1200 - 1500 rubles per m². More expensive types include granite and marble, with a polished or chipped surface.


Well, if there is a desire to achieve complete exclusivity, then wealthy homeowners sometimes resort to cladding with materials such as gabbro or even labradorite, the price of which is generally “exorbitant”.

Video: facing the base with sandstone

Cladding with artificial stone

In the case when you really want to use stone cladding for the base, but the material capabilities or design features of the building make this impossible, you can resort to another option - purchase artificial stone.


The cost of the artificial analogue is much less, the mass of the material is not so significant, and the illusion of naturalness is almost complete.

Such material is made on the basis cement-containing mixtures, often with the addition of light fractions (for example, expanded clay crushed stone), special polymer plasticizers and micro-reinforcing components. Tiles are produced using vibration casting technology in special silicone molds that exactly replicate the natural texture of the stone, or by hyper-pressing.


Laying hyper-pressed tiles “under the stone”

The release form may vary. Thus, piece tiles with standardized correct sizes are widely used. No less popular are sets that are assembled per unit area, the individual tiles of which can have different linear dimensions. This type of finishing of the base is carried out in the usual way - by laying it on construction tile adhesive for external work.


Artificial stone panels of the “Canyon” type

To facilitate the installation of the plinth cladding, you can purchase ready-made artificial stone panels, for example, the “Canyon” type. At the production stage, metal mounting brackets with a precise geometric arrangement are embedded into their concrete structure. These parts allow you to mount ready-made panels on the surface of the plinth not with mortar, but with fasteners - an indisputable advantage, especially when cladding along subsystem guides.

Find out how to do it with detailed instructions from our new article.

If desired, such panels can also be installed on an adhesive solution - brackets bent inward will only increase the reliability of adhesion to the surface.

Another option - artificial stone tiles are attached with reliable polyurethane adhesive to a rigid base, with or without insulation - this can be a board made of OSB, fiber cement or glass magnesite. Such a substrate greatly simplifies the installation of the cladding and gives it additional thermal insulation qualities.


The well-thought-out locking part of the panels completely hides the joints between them, creating the effect of natural stonework. The texture of the outer surface can be chosen to suit your taste - rocks, crushed stone, tuff, slate, etc. Mosaic solutions with the inclusion of artificial mini-slabs different texture or color.

Prices for the range of plinth panels

Plinth panels

Finishing the base with brick or “brick-like”

Strictness always gives the building a special respectability and is in perfect harmony with any possible type of decoration of the rest of the façade area. To achieve this effect, you can use one of the existing options:

  • Cladding the base with natural brick. This approach has the advantage that it is possible to create a ventilated gap between the base itself and the cladding, or fill this space with insulating material. In addition, the brick itself will also serve as additional thermal insulation, especially if hollow varieties are used. However, it must be remembered that the brickwork itself will need a strip foundation - this issue should be taken into account when planning construction. Although they do it differently - they create their own support for the masonry, which will subsequently be combined with a concrete blind area around the foundation.

Various types of bricks are used for cladding the base.

- The heaviest - hyper-pressed, characterized by very high strength and extremely low water absorption - something that is especially necessary for the base. You can purchase bricks of a variety of sizes - from the “Russian” standard 250 × 120 × 60 mm to the elongated “American” one.

— The most economical option is sand-lime brick, but it is not particularly popular for such finishing work.

— Ceramic bricks, including clinker bricks, usually have a hollow internal structure, which significantly reduces the weight of the cladding itself and provides a pronounced thermal insulation effect.

  • However, it is not always possible to make real brickwork and, to be honest, it is not always advisable, because such a decorative effect can be completely achieved by using facing.

A simpler and more affordable option is clinker tiles

The material used to make it is in no way inferior in its performance characteristics to brick, and correctly laid tiles give an absolutely reliable appearance of full-fledged brickwork. A variety of sizes, colors, external textures, special methods of surface decoration (using artificial aging technologies, uneven firing, inclusion of additional fragments) allows you to give the building a absolutely unique view.


As a rule, collections of clinker facing tiles also include corner elements, which make it possible to simplify the masonry as much as possible without disturbing its overall pattern.

  • It will be even easier to veneer the protruding part of the foundation “like a brick” if you use plinth panels.

They can be produced on a thermal insulating polyurethane foam or polystyrene base. The tiles (clinker or artificial stone) are located and fixed on it with precise adherence to the rows of “brickwork”, locking grooveridge connections will not allow mistakes during installation. Spaces are provided for placing fasteners for mounting panels to the wall or subsystem guides. There must be elements for decorating external corners without disturbing the linearity and “spacing” of the rows.


Base thermal panels - both decorative finishing and reliable insulation

In this case, it is preferable - the panels are more durable, the tiles are glued into them especially reliably, and they have higher thermal insulation qualities. If you have to purchase expanded polystyrene panels, then preference should be given to extruded polystyrene foam of high density.

Video: installation of base thermal panels

  • If there is no need to insulate the base, then it is worth purchasing similar panels without a thermal insulation layer. In this case, the basis for rows of clinker tiles can be glass-magnesite, OSB or fiber cement panels.

— Fiber cement – ​​durable, environmentally friendly, highly resistant to impact loads. However, they are quite heavy, which makes installation difficult. In addition, such panels do not like fracture loads, that is, they require special care during transportation and temporary storage.

— Panels based on OSB have practically no disadvantages - they are light, environmentally friendly, not afraid of external influences, of course, with the proper quality of the base.

— Glass magnesite is the most modern solution, since the material does not burn, withstands heating to very high temperatures, is not afraid of frost, and is resistant to ultraviolet radiation. A particular advantage is flexibility, which allows do work on walls, even those with slight curvature, which could not be eliminated by other methods.

Regular thickness glass-magnesite the base is 8 mm, and this does not reduce the strength of the products and does not make the overall design of the cladding heavier

Finishing with basement siding

The design features of the plinth or the entire façade cladding system do not always allow the use of natural or artificial stone (brick). It’s okay, very high-quality finishing can be done using basement siding, which will give full visibility of the natural material.


Base finished with polymer panels - siding

The term “basement siding” covers a huge variety of finishes. Panels can differ significantly in size, design, and material of their manufacture.

Base siding is made from polyvinyl chloride, polymer sand mixtures, fiber cement, and other composite materials. As a rule, the panels are mounted on subsystem guides (in rare cases, directly on the wall), which makes it possible to place the insulation layer of the required thickness.

The sizes of the panels and their shape can also be very diverse. Most often, the panels have a locking part and specially provided areas for attaching them to the guides.


There are so many options for surface texture, imitation of this or that material, and colors that it is difficult to even roughly describe them.


In addition to the traditional structure, basement siding panels can also take the form of rounded wooden beams (block house), shipboard or roughly chopped shingles.


An original solution - basement siding imitating wooden shingles

The main advantage of this approach to finishing the base is the light weight of the material, ease of installation, relative durability of the resulting cladding and ease of maintenance.

Video: polymer base siding “under the stone”

A necessary element for finishing the plinth is ebb and flow

The basement of the building may have a different location. So, it can be slightly “recessed” relative to the surface of the walls. Sometimes the base is flush with the rest of the facade, although this option is considered the most unsuccessful - it does not provide adequate protection of the base from precipitation. Most often, the base protrudes outward in the form of a kind of step. It is in this case that its finishing will lose its meaning if it is not accompanied by the installation of ebb tides.


A mandatory element with a protruding base is ebb tides

These structural finishing elements will reliably protect the protruding part of the foundation from direct precipitation, remove water from the surface of the base, and prevent moisture from penetrating into the cracks between the wall and the cladding materials

The ebb tides can be made from different materials.

  • In most cases, metal castings are used, which are made of galvanized steel sheets coated with a polymer coating, which provides additional protection against corrosion and gives the required decorative effect.

The most common are steel with polymer coating

You can find flashings made of aluminum, and as the most expensive option - even from sheet copper: they will harmonize especially well with the copper roof of the building.


Exclusive option - copper sheet ebbs

Video: installing metal ebbs on the plinth

  • Plastic moldings will cost slightly less, but this material does not have the same durability as sheet metal, simply for reasons of lower mechanical strength. To protect the base, this option is rarely used. Although, if the walls of the house are decorated with PVC siding, then the polymer cast will look very advantageous.
  • If the plinth ledge is large enough, and its cladding is made of brick or clinker tiles, then laying out ebbs from profile ceramic (clinker) blocks is an excellent option.

They can be in the form of a brick with edges beveled in one direction, or in the form of rectangular tiles with a plane inclined to the horizon to ensure water drainage. The surface can be ordinary or with a glazed layer applied (smalt tiles).


Profile clinker panels with smalt coating - beautiful, but expensive

This low tide belt looks very impressive. But, however, its arrangement will require large material costs and labor-intensive installation process that can only be performed by a very highly qualified master.

So, there are a great many options for finishing the base. You should evaluate in advance your financial resources, the fundamental feasibility, feasibility, decorativeness and operational qualities of the chosen cladding, and the availability of its independent implementation. Ideally, all these issues need to be thought through at the stage of drawing up the design of the future structure.