According to architectural canons, the plinth is the part of the building lying on the foundation, and is considered as a transition wall between the foundation base and the outer walls of the house. The complex of works on the external finishing of the entire building includes measures for finishing the basement, while the finishing materials for the basement of the house are somewhat different from the materials chosen for finishing the walls of the house. This is due to the close location of the base to the ground, where it is more susceptible to the influence of moisture and cold air than the walls of the residential building themselves. Thanks to the development of modern technologies for finishing the external surfaces of residential buildings and the creation of new finishing materials, builders of private houses have received ample opportunities to equip original and practical plinths at affordable prices.

After finishing the basement, it is even visually different from the building Source domzzz.ru

Purpose and functions of the base

Builders and architects have different interpretations of the purpose of the plinth. Builders consider the basement as part of the foundation, while architects usually consider it the lower part of the wall.

This is interesting! From the point of view of ancient Italian architects, the plinth is an independent structural element - the foot of a building, column or monument lying on a foundation (the Italian word “zoccolo” literally translates as a shoe with a wooden sole).

In accordance with building codes, the foundation walls must be raised above the ground to a height of 15 to 250 cm. This visible part of the foundation, called the foundation wall, is called the plinth. The plinth is an intermediate structure that combines the load-bearing walls of the building with the foundation. In Fig. Below is a concrete foundation with a brick base.

Construction of a brick plinth on the foundation Source vi.decorexpro.com

The main functions of the basement wall of a building are:

perception of load from the upper part of a residential building (load-bearing function);

ensuring the stability of the building, creating a strong pedestal, perception of linear deformations during settlement of the house (support function);

protection of walls from exposure to atmospheric sedimentary moisture (waterproofing function);

providing thermal protection for basements (thermal insulating function);

fencing the space between the piles and the grillage in the case of a pile foundation (enclosing function);

creation of an appropriate architectural appearance of the erected building (architectural and decorative function).

Video description

More about the advantages of the basement floor in the video:

Differences between basement and basement

The ground floor, also called the ground floor, should not be confused with the basement and imagine it as a sort of dark, damp room.

It is important! The basement floor is located inside the perimeter of the foundation walls and can be installed in buildings with any type of foundation. The basement can only be built inside a strip foundation. In some variants of foundations (such as piles), the base is simply absent. In the case of a pile foundation, the pile heads are raised above the ground to a height of at least 20 cm, and a grillage is laid on them, which serves as support for the walls of the house.

In Fig. Below is a house on a pile foundation, in which the piles protrude a considerable distance from the ground. To close the resulting free gap, a false base is formed by laying walls made of facing bricks or sheathing the piles with decorative panels such as siding. Finishing of the foundation will be inexpensively provided by using materials used for the external cladding of the facade, taking into account the peculiarities of the location of the false base.

For such a house you need a false base Source tema.ru

Using the example of false plinths, the main differences between the basement and the ground floor become clear:

The walls of the basement of a house are always load-bearing; the load from the upper floors of the building is partially distributed on them. Basement walls are not always load-bearing, but can only perform enclosing and architectural and decorative functions without bearing weight loads from the building.

The ground floor can be recessed to a slight depth or even be above ground. A basement is a room buried in the ground. The basement can be classified as a basement floor, while the basement is not always buried in the ground and cannot be considered a basement in such cases.

Ground-based options for the ground floor are preferable in regions with deep soil freezing and when building in areas with close groundwater. Arrangement of basements in such cases is very difficult and is associated with significant financial costs.

Despite such a significant difference in purpose and design, the ground floor and basement allow for practical applications identical to each other - in their areas you can equip a workshop, a garage, plan a living room and even build a full-fledged sauna.

Types of basement structures

Practiced options for finishing the base of a house take into account its location relative to the plane of the outer wall (see figure below):

Types of location of the plinth relative to the wall Source domsireni.ru

a – protruding type;

b – in one plane (flush);

c – sinking.

The following positions are indicated in the figure:

pos. 1 – external wall;

pos. 2 – waterproofing;

pos. 3 – foundation.

The protruding type of foot (pos. a) gives the building the appearance of a powerful structure with increased stability. From an architectural and aesthetic point of view, the protruding type is more advantageous than foundation walls made flush or sunken.

Appearance of the protruding plinth Source remont.kz

However, they necessarily require the construction of a protective cornice with drainage functions to prevent water from flowing from the walls to the base. The construction of a protruding type foundation wall is advisable for houses with thin walls or when building a warm underground for its thermal protection, in order to compensate with its width for the small thickness of the outer wall.

The sinking type base (pos. c), when the outer wall (pos. 1) hangs over the foundation (pos. 3), is considered more effective and reliable in terms of protecting the waterproofing layer (pos. 2) from mechanical influences and atmospheric moisture. It is more economical in terms of material consumption, since the thickness is smaller and the construction of a drain cornice is not required. But regarding its aesthetic qualities, the opinions of architects differ diametrically. Some are convinced of an aesthetic loss due to the impression created that the house has reduced stability compared to its actual value. Other designers consider the contours of the recessed plinth to be more compact and modern.

This is what a wall with a sunken plinth looks like Source domsireni.ru

Sometimes the base is built flush with the plane of the wall. It is believed that in such cases the waterproofing line is broken, and the location of the waterproofing layer itself appears random.

When constructing a flush base, it differs only in color Source 2gis.ru

Purpose of basement finishing, requirements for finishing materials

The base experiences a greater volume of loads than the underground part of the base of the building. Along with the weight load from the entire structure, it has to counteract the buoyancy forces from the soil during soil heaving, that is, the mechanical loads on the base are multidirectional.

It is clear that to finish the surface of the basement wall it is necessary to use materials with increased quality indicators compared to traditional cladding. In addition to mechanical loads, they must withstand environmental influences well:

temperature changes;

negative impact of sedimentary moisture - rain, snow, melt water, condensing fog;

exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation;

wind loads.

As a result, the finishing of the basement of the house is carried out for the following purposes:

minimizing the negative impact of environmental weather conditions on the foundation and lower layers of external walls;

preventing the penetration of dirt and chemical compounds into the materials of the walls of a residential building, provoking processes of destruction of the foundation;

protecting the foundation from possible formation of mold, mildew, and insects.

Video description

The video shows an example of how to veneer the base of a house inexpensively and beautifully on a pile foundation:

Rough base protection

In order for the base to fully perform its functions for a long time, it itself must be protected from wind loads, temperature changes, atmospheric and pervasive ground moisture. Before you begin finishing the basement wall, it is necessary to carry out a set of measures for the so-called rough protection of the basement. There are five main aspects of rough protection of the base from possible destruction and preventing distortion of the geometry of the building itself.

On our website you can find contacts of companies specializing in finishing materials for finishing country houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Laying drainage communications along the perimeter of the basement wall

To create a drainage system for the basement, a trench is dug into which drainage pipes are laid with perforations over the entire surface. Through them, moisture that gets inside will be drained to the drainage well. The trench with drainage pipes laid in a special way is sprinkled with sand and crushed stone, then filled with earth.

Video description

The video shows an example of drainage for the basement floor:

Applying waterproofing to the outside of a basement wall

The base is waterproofed after the initial waterproofing of the foundation base and reinforced belt. Sequence of work:

the foundation superstructure is coated with hot bitumen or bitumen mastic;

several layers of roofing material are applied on top;

coated with a penetrating waterproofing compound.

Production of blind areas

Blind areas are called concrete-filled inclined strips along the perimeter of the building, coming close to the basement wall. A slight slope “away from the wall” prevents water from accumulating near the foundation superstructure during rain or when snow melts. The width of the blind area should be at least 25 cm greater than the size of the roof extension. Sequence of work:

remove the top part of the soil;

lay a drainage cushion of sand and crushed stone;

a layer of concrete is poured on top of the cushion, ensuring a slope from the wall.

Blind area for the foundation Source subscribe.ru

Plastering the surface of the plinth

Performed to level and strengthen the surface. This reduces the likelihood of cracks forming, causing subsequent possible destruction. Typically, in preparation for plastering, a metal mesh is pre-stuffed and then plaster is applied. To impart water-repellent properties to the solution, a plasticizer is added to it.

Installation of ebb tides

These structural elements act as a protective canopy for the foundation wall. The ebbs can be ceramic, steel or aluminum, plastic or brick.

Upon completion of the complex of protective measures, the main finishing of the base begins.

Methods for finishing the base

Among the methods of finishing a basement wall practiced in private housing construction, the most popular are the following technologies:

applying decorative plaster, creating relief compositions imitating granite, marble or natural stones;

use of decorative siding panels;

finishing with corrugated sheets and corrugated sheets;

resin-based tile finishing;

cladding with natural or artificial stones, facing bricks, clinker tiles;

covering with thermal panels;

finishing with slate and cement particle boards.

Photo of finishing the base of the house - imitation of stone when finishing the base Source domsireni.ru

Finishing with decorative plaster

Finishing the base or facing the foundation can be done cheaply without loss of operational and aesthetic qualities using decorative plastering. The main advantages of this technique are:

fairly high vapor permeability;

resistance to temperature changes;

ease of application to the surface to be plastered;

wide variety of color palette;

good maintainability for repair and restoration work;

affordable price.

Additional Information. Experts believe that when comparing the entire set of indicators in terms of cost, quality, durability, maintainability and practicality of the coating, finishing the base with plaster turns out to be the most advantageous option.

Among the shortcomings, users note:

small operational resource;

the need for constant updating of the paint coating;

Difficulties in cleaning the surface from contamination.

Modern trends in the artistic and decorative design of the facades of residential buildings have not left the plastering of plinths unattended.

Decorative plaster can be used to give the surface any shape Source dom-steny.ru

In private homes, the most popular types of plaster are now those that create exclusive compositions:

textured compositions used to create paintings, drawings, color mosaics;

glazing compounds that help create interesting effects;

relief decoration “like stone”.

Siding finishing

When finishing the basement of a private house in Moscow with its climate and colder regions, siding panels are often used - the term “basement siding” has even entered construction practice. At its core, siding is a universal way to finish any surface of a house, however, the panels for cladding the base are somewhat different from their classic wall counterparts.

If wall sidings are represented by panels with a thickness of 0.7-1.2 mm and a length of almost 4 meters, then for the plinth reinforced panels with a thickness of 2.5 to 3.0 mm are produced (almost 3 times thicker than wall cladding!) and a length of 1 ,0-1.13 m with a width of up to 47 cm. This ensures increased resistance to mechanical damage, including accidental impacts, and rigidity with respect to temperature deformation.

Standard siding panel "brick" Source sargorstroy.ru

On the Russian market of facing materials, basement siding is represented by plastic and metal panels that imitate the texture of natural stones, wood, and brick. Plastic panels for the plinth are made from PVC and polypropylene resins, modified with special components to improve strength, resistance to fire and sedimentary moisture. Metal - made of steel and aluminum.

The main advantages of basement siding include:

increased strength and rigidity of each panel individually and the assembled structure as a whole;

resistance to the negative effects of biological factors - fungus, mold, insects;

excellent moisture resistance;

increased mechanical strength in relation to impacts and chipping;

wear resistance to the abrasive effects of dust and debris particles;

small deformations due to temperature changes, building settlement or soil swelling;

wide temperature range of application – the panels do not lose their properties both in severe frost (down to minus 50 degrees C) and in heat exceeding + 50 degrees. C);

resistance to solar ultraviolet radiation - the material does not age quickly, and the color does not fade;

excellent maintainability – panels can be easily replaced if necessary;

Easy to maintain - the panels can be easily washed from dirt.

A significant disadvantage of basement siding is the need to install a special frame, which significantly increases the cost of finishing materials and the complexity of finishing work.

Siding panels cannot be installed without sheathing Source podvaldoma.ru

Installation of basement siding panels also has its pros and cons. The advantages of the panel installation process include the following aspects:

panels can be installed on any type of plinth;

no preliminary leveling of the wall surface is required;

high culture and cleanliness of installation work;

Fastening the panels to the frame sheathing using self-tapping screws and to each other using tenons and clamps ensures rigid fixation of the siding to the base.

Installation problems for plinth panels include:

the need to correctly align the frame under the panels;

painstaking installation, the likelihood of defects when connecting panels, which can subsequently affect the appearance of the base and its performance;

the need to use special tools for cutting and fitting panels.

Finishing with corrugated sheets and corrugated sheets

Cladding the base with a profiled steel sheet is to some extent an analogue of siding technology, only the base panels are replaced with corrugated sheets or corrugated sheets with corresponding modifications to the frame. In addition to the protective function, finishing can also be performed for decorative purposes.

Video description

The video shows an example of finishing the basement of an old house:

The corrugated sheet has a more rigid wave profile than the corrugated sheet. According to their intended purpose, profiled sheets are used as roofing material, however, C13 corrugated sheeting, which has a wave height of 13 mm, is allowed for cladding the plinths of private residential buildings. The thickness of the corrugated sheet is 0.6-0.7 mm, which is quite enough to create a durable cladding for the foundation superstructure. Corrugated sheets are supplied with galvanized or polymer coating.

The advantages of profiled sheets include:

high strength qualities;

visual appeal, the ability to implement various types of design compositions;

resistance to corrosion and discoloration from environmental influences;

ease of installation, minimal labor required for installation on the base;

affordability.

It is important! Cladding the base with corrugated sheets is a budget option for finishing foundation and basement walls and is clearly superior to other technologies in terms of price/quality.

Among the disadvantages, two factors can be noted:

the monotony of the corrugated pattern, which some users perceive as an indicator of an unpresentable interior;

the need to take into account the geometry of the overall design of the building, since the wave bends of the sheets may completely not correspond to the artistic style of the building (“do not fit” into the design).

The issue of combining the patterns of the wall and the plinth is one of the main ones when finishing the plinth of a private house with corrugated sheets Source sevparitet.ru

Resin based tiles

Plinth tiles produced using resin binders have a thickness of only 3-5 mm. The tiles are easily bent at any angle, they can even be rolled, which is why this facing material is commonly called flexible stone. The length of the tiles varies from 24 to 36 cm with a width of 5 to 7 cm. Resin-based tiles are produced with a smooth and textured surface that imitates the color and texture of the entire range of natural facing materials - stone, wood, facing brick.

Facing made of “flexible stone” Source moypodval.ru

Due to their high flexibility, tiles on resin bases can be easily laid on a plinth of any configuration, including arcuate geometry. The installation features of such tiles are as follows:

when laying, the tiles are glued with a special glue to the previously leveled and primed surface of the basement wall;

it is allowed to lay tiles directly on concrete surfaces and on the top layer of thermal insulation;

tiles are easy to cut with a knife and large scissors;

The time for complete drying of the glue is 2-3 days.

Finishing with stone, brick, clinker tiles

Finishing the base “like stone” or “like brick” gives the residential building solidity and monumentality. It is not at all necessary for home owners to spend money on granite, marble, rubble stone or brick. The decorative functions of finishing from natural stone materials are successfully performed by various types of facing tiles with a texture that imitates natural stones or brick.

Natural stone tiles

It is a complete decorative alternative to classic stone foundation masonry. The back side of the tile is smooth, but on the front side the stone is not processed, preserving its natural identity.

Cladding with natural stone is an excellent option for finishing the foundation of a wooden house Source moypodval.ru

Stone-like facing tiles, imitating natural stones, are produced on a cement-sand base with the addition of paint, plasticizers and protective compounds. Artificial stones have high strength characteristics, do not absorb water, and are easy to clean with a water jet. Artificial stone is more plastic than natural stone, so it can better withstand accidental impacts and sudden temperature changes.

Stone-like cladding Source piatachok.ru

Clinker

Clinker tiles are a version of facing bricks made by annealing special refractory clay. Sintered clay is very hard, and its glossy surface has high hydrophobic properties. After laying, clinker tiles create an imitation of brickwork.

It is important! Clinker tiles are highly chemically inert to negative environmental influences and are superior in durability to natural and artificial stones.

Cladding the base with clinker - as an option for finishing the foundation of a house from the outside Source tr.decorexpro.com

Facing brick is a natural ceramic product that fully imitates brickwork. It has high thermal insulation and strength qualities, which are so necessary to protect the base and the entire facade.

Basement finished with facing brick Source domsireni.ru

Finishing with base thermal panels

Base thermal panels are facing tiles equipped with insulation on the inside. The decorative facing material for thermal panels is clinker tiles that imitate natural stones, brick, shell rock, porcelain tiles or ordinary ceramic tiles with a “brick” imitation. Polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam is used as insulation. The thickness of the insulation layer is 20-80 mm.

Note! Practice has shown that the use of thermal panels with foamed polystyrene for cladding a basement wall is unacceptable. This insulation option is short-lived and has weak heat-shielding properties.

Thermal panels are exterior finishing and insulation Source blogremonta.com

Finishing with slate and cement bonded particleboard

Finishing the base with flat slate is a good budget option for exterior home decoration. Asbestos fiber, Portland cement and water are used to make flat slate. It is recommended that the cladding of the basement wall be made of pressed slate, which is much denser and stronger than its non-pressed counterpart. The main advantages of slate materials include:

resistance to aggression of sedimentary moisture;

low water absorption coefficient;

resistance to low temperatures and sudden temperature changes;

resistance to open flames, slate sheets do not burn;

slate can be painted using acrylic primer and acrylic or silicone paint;

long service life within 25-30 years.

Among the disadvantages, the following factors are necessarily mentioned:

increased fragility - slate is capable of collapsing from dynamic impacts, for example, from being hit by a stone;

asbestos dust generated when cutting sheets during the installation process is extremely harmful to humans. Processing of sheets is carried out only in respirators.

Budget options for finishing the plinth Source domsireni.ru

Cement-bonded particle boards (CPB) are made by pressing wood chips with cement. The basis of the CBPB is chips of a large fraction, the top layer is formed from chips of a smaller fraction. The building materials market offers DSP sheets with a thickness of 8-36 mm. To finish the basement wall, sheets with a thickness of 16 to 20 mm are used.

The advantages of DSP are as follows:

good moisture resistance;

resistance to low ambient temperatures;

high degree of fire safety of DSP cladding;

resistance to rotting;

ease of machining.

The disadvantages include two factors:

heavy weight of each cladding element;

service life does not exceed 15 years.

Finishing the basement in a wooden house

When finishing the foundation of a wooden house and cladding the basement, special attention is paid to carefully waterproofing and thermal insulation of the entire basement belt around the building. The wood from which the walls of a home are built is susceptible to rotting and mold growth, and is vulnerable to excess sedimentary and ground moisture. Only reliable protection of the base will prevent liquid from penetrating into the wall part and preventing it from freezing in the cold season. After taking measures to waterproof and thermally protect the base, it can be finished using the technologies described above.

Finishing the base of a wooden house Source remlandia.ru

Conclusion

The long-term trouble-free operation of a residential building depends on the strength and reliability of the plinth around the building. When the basement is destroyed, a destructive reaction of the building begins, leading to a deterioration in the appearance of the building and a decrease in its strength qualities, up to local destruction of the walls and foundation. Any method of finishing the basement to a certain extent protects and improves the façade of the building. Developers are only required to achieve an optimal match between price, quality and decorative properties of the finishing material, so that the basement cladding does not stand out from the overall picture of the appearance of the building.

Any homeowner sooner or later is faced with the fact that it is time to repair or simply improve the building of their home or office. When choosing materials for the facade and roof, we must not forget about such an important element of the structure as the base. Its finishing needs to be taken care of separately, but naturally, it should be combined with the overall appearance, style and materials. There can be several options for installing a plinth: flush with the wall of the building, protruding and recessed - the choice of finishing material and application technology will also depend on its original structure.

Base finishing options

Today, construction companies performing turnkey repairs offer several options for finishing the base:

• plaster,
• mosaic plaster,
• brick,
• clinker tiles,
• natural stone
• artificial stone,
• professional sheet

Now let’s figure out how to choose the cladding for the plinth and what each of the materials is.

Naturally, such a ubiquitous material as plaster cannot but be used in finishing the basement sections of the facade. A plastered plinth will look beautiful and stylish if you choose the right type of material that successfully complements the style of the building, and, of course, its application is done well.

This material is strong enough to provide external protection to the building. But, it is clear that it will not be able to compete with stone or siding trim in terms of durability. However, it is worth noting that under conditions of high atmospheric humidity, exposure to ultraviolet rays and chemical corrosion, plaster, as a finishing material, has shown itself to be quite worthy. And as for the breadth of assortment, plaster will probably be the first among all other finishes.

The variety of types, textures and shades suitable for finishing the base is simply amazing. Any hardware store has at least the most common ones on its shelves:

• structural,

You can use classic textures, or you can add a little bit of your imagination to the finishing and get a unique, original design. As for shades, in addition to the available dyes - there is also a huge selection of them, you can order professional tinting in exactly the shade you dream of.

Recently, plastering the base “like a stone” has been gaining popularity. This is natural - the craze for finishing with stone, natural or artificial, has led to all sorts of ways to reduce the cost and simplify finishing work.

It goes without saying that imitating stone with plaster is much more economical and faster than laying natural stone.

The most common types of stone design plaster are imitation marble, granite or sandstone. Latex-based plasters can additionally provide an “antique” effect - cracked stone. In the same way, you can create visual analogues of other materials - wood, timber, pebbles and many others.

The advantages of plaster as a finishing material for cladding the base are obvious:

1. Easy to apply. Even textured decorative plasters can be applied independently without any special skills in construction work.
2. There is no need to use special construction tools or equipment. Plasters are sold both in dry form, where you just need to add water and stir the solution, and in the form of a ready-to-use mixture.
3. The widest range of colors, textures, application options– all the types of plasters and designs that can be obtained with their help are even difficult to describe in one article.
4. Plaster is easy to adjust or fix. Perhaps this is one of the easiest materials to repair. Moreover, you can do this, again, with your own hands.
5. Well, and undoubtedly, the advantage is price of this material.

In addition to its advantages, plaster also has understandable disadvantages. Among them it is worth noting:

1. Not particularly high coating strength. Yes, this material can protect against external influences, however, it is significantly inferior to other possible finishing options, which are an order of magnitude more reliable.
2. Not durable. No matter how competently the plaster is done, even if the application technology is strictly followed, the plastered surface will not last as long as marble, and this should not be expected.

Plaster, despite its significant shortcomings, has been used for a long time to finish the basement of buildings; it looks beautiful and harmoniously combines with other finishing materials. And given its low cost, it can be updated as it wears out.

The material itself, mosaic plaster, is, roughly speaking, a mixture of crumbs and resin. Modern plasters are produced using acrylic resin, which has wonderful plastic and strength characteristics. This makes mosaic plaster not only beautiful, but also a durable material for finishing the basement of a house.

The crumb can be of different sizes. There are three types of fraction sizes: small, medium and large. Which one to choose is determined by the buyer at his own discretion and based on the overall design of the building’s decoration.

Before finishing, the base is also prepared in the standard way: cleaning from dust, priming. If there are no too noticeable irregularities, then there is no need to level them - plaster will do this.

Mosaic plaster is sold in a ready-to-use form. It is usually packaged in plastic buckets of various sizes. The mixture has the desired consistency and shade. When purchasing material, always try to calculate the required quantity as accurately as possible and provide a small reserve. Pay attention to the batch number and production date - different batches may have different colors, which will be very noticeable on the finished base.

There is nothing complicated in applying plaster; even people who do not have finishing skills can cope with this task. Plaster is usually applied with a metal float; it is important to maintain the thickness of the layer and apply the material in one direction so that strokes are not noticeable.

If you decide to entrust the finishing to professionals, they will most likely prefer an automated application method - by spraying. Application this way is much faster and easier, but, naturally, not everyone has a sprayer.

Mosaic plaster can last for a long time without changing its appearance. This is a beautiful, durable and comfortable finish for a plinth. It does not require any maintenance and retains its appearance throughout the entire period of use.

Without unnecessary exaggeration, this is the most common type of basement finishing for residential buildings.

1. Firstly, a brick base is durable, beautiful and goes well with other materials.
2. Secondly, which is important for home craftsmen, it is quite possible to do it with your own hands.
3. Well, thirdly, brick is probably one of the most low-maintenance building materials, therefore, having completed a high-quality finish just once, you can confidently expect that it will last for many years.

As a last resort, if some part of the masonry becomes unusable, it can be partially replaced and the overall appearance will not suffer from this.

The brick base is frost-resistant and at the same time, it is not afraid of the scorching rays of the sun. This is also an undoubted advantage of the material and makes it accessible to any region of our country.

Also, due to the growing demand for environmentally friendly materials, it should be noted that brick is just one of them - it is completely harmless to human health and the environment. Modern brick manufacturers can boast of decent equipment and high-quality materials. On the shelves of construction hypermarkets you can find many varieties of bricks - for every taste and imagination of the buyer.

The last priority advantage of the brick finishing of the plinth is its low cost - compared to other materials, this is perhaps the most budget-friendly, but at the same time its appearance is not inferior to others.

Finishing the base with clinker tiles is visually no different from finishing with brick. But, of course, much cheaper and easier to implement.

Before finishing work begins, the base of the plinth must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt; if this is not done, the adhesive mixture will be unevenly applied, which may cause the tiles to fall off. The base on which the clinker tiles will be laid must be smooth and strong - if there are cracks or damage on it, they must be repaired in advance, the same applies to uneven surfaces - they must be leveled, otherwise the tiles simply cannot be laid in an even layer. Immediately before starting installation, it is advisable to prime the base well with a special solution - primer. This will reduce glue consumption and improve its adhesive properties.

The tiles must be laid strictly according to the level, otherwise the rows may not be even, which will be visually very noticeable and will require labor-intensive rework. They always start from the bottom row, and only after laying it along the entire perimeter of the building do they begin the next one - and so on.

A steel float is perfect for gluing tiles. We apply glue to the base with its smooth side, and then run the toothed side over the mortar - this way we get the required thickness for gluing the tiles, and the relief surface will allow the tile to be more firmly fixed to the wall.

The last stage is grouting the joints between the tiles. The grout must be selected in accordance with the parameters of use, namely: resistant to moisture and temperature changes. Such a product will not be cheap, however, its effectiveness will pay off in the very first winter.

Clinker tiles are often used to finish the basement precisely because of their great similarity to brickwork. It can also be used either fully or partially - to finish only the base, the corners of the building, or to highlight any elements of the building.

Cladding the base with natural stone

Of course: beautiful, expensive, natural. It is impossible to argue with the statement that a plinth made of natural stone looks very elegant and can complement, or even decorate, the overall appearance of the facade.

When planning stone finishing, be sure to pay attention to its quality - the durability and strength of the base will depend on this.

In this case, several types of stone can be used:

1. River stone. Not only does it have a beautiful appearance, but it will also perform well when interacting with atmospheric phenomena. River and sea natural stone contains a large amount of mineral salts, which makes it practically invulnerable to precipitation, snow or ice.
2. Limestone. The stone is quite durable and at the same time, not particularly expensive.
3. Marble. Naturally, this is a very expensive pleasure, but if you consider how durable and resistant the material is to any type of impact - both mechanical and atmospheric - then its wave quality justifies its cost. Moreover, you won’t need much of it to finish the base.

Whatever type of stone you use, you can immediately highlight the advantages of this finish:

1. Naturalness. Accordingly, it is a completely environmentally friendly material, safe for health.
2. Durability. Stone finishes can maintain their appearance for centuries. This is especially true for marble, river or sea stone.
3. Unique design– nature itself did its best by painting the stones; their unique texture and coloring are certainly capable of decorating any construction project. By finishing the base with natural stone, you will provide the building with a spectacular appearance.

The advantages of natural stone are obvious even to an amateur in construction work, however, it also has disadvantages, which you also need to be aware of when planning the finishing of the base.

1. Finishing the base with natural stone must be done after the house has completely settled. Since, as already mentioned, stone is one of the most durable materials, it is not able to undergo virtually any surface tension. Hence the simple conclusion - finishing the base with natural stone will be done correctly only after the building has completely settled. Naturally, this is impossible for a new building - since shrinkage can occur over a long period of time - here everything will depend on the type of soil and the building itself. Otherwise, as it settles, the base, finished with natural stone, will develop unsightly cracks, and the material may spontaneously fall off.
2. The second important drawback also follows smoothly from the advantage of the stone - its weight. Anyone can understand that a plinth made of natural stone is not only beautiful and durable, but also very heavy. And not every facade can safely withstand such weight. Professional construction companies, when planning the installation of a stone plinth, always calculate the strength characteristics of the building and its ability to withstand such loads.
3. The third disadvantage will simply be the cost of this natural material., especially with regard to marble, river or sea stone - these varieties, unfortunately, are expensive, and not every homeowner can afford them.

Natural stone is not only a strong and durable finish, it is beautiful, elegant and expensive - both in the literal, financial sense, and in the figurative - visual sense. Of course, it makes no sense to combine such material with frankly cheap wall decoration - stone is quite demanding in terms of the overall finishing concept.

Finishing the basement of a house with artificial stone

Naturally, given the high cost of natural stone, the construction market has found a way out for more economical buyers. In this case, it is an artificial stone. In appearance, it is almost completely identical to natural stone - it can repeat the texture of the stone, even taking into account its variety - river, sea, marble, and so on.

Thanks to the progress that has made great strides in the construction industry, artificial stone made from concrete, with the help of special dyes, acquires a color similar to natural stone.

Artificial stone is sold in various sizes - you can choose large or small stones, depending on the design project of the building and your taste. You can choose regularly shaped or shapeless stones. In any case, when choosing an artificial stone, you need to pay attention to its quality - the material must be made carefully and be as similar as possible to its natural counterpart.

The artificial stone is laid on a regular or special adhesive solution, having previously cleaned the base from dirt. The seams are filled with mortar and jointed, like brickwork.

The main advantage of artificial stone is that its cost is several times lower than that of natural stone. Outwardly, it looks impressive, given the large assortment of colors, textures and shapes, but the price is at least three times lower.

However, this material also has a significant drawback - its low durability compared to natural stone. In order to somehow increase the resource of finishing with artificial stone and extend its presentation, after it has been laid and fully secured, the finished base is treated with special strengthening solutions - this event allows you to extend the life of the finish by four to five years.

Currently, perhaps, one of the most common finishes is both for the walls of the house and its base. Such popularity is ensured by the availability of the material, its widest range - in construction hypermarkets, siding panels are presented in huge quantities, their color and texture can satisfy the most demanding customers.

Siding has long been widely used in European countries for finishing buildings, and in recent years it has flooded our market. The demand for this material in the coming decades is due to its clear advantages over others:

1. Siding is the easiest material to repair. That is, if suddenly there is a need to replace some part of the area finished with siding, then doing this is not problematic - the main thing is to have the same material - from the same batch as the one being replaced. The best solution here is to simply buy a little more of it, so that you then have something to replace it with.
2. The material is very light weight. When planning its installation, you do not need to calculate the load on the foundation, since it is completely insignificant. Siding can be used for finishing without thinking about the strength of the walls of the building as a whole.
3. To install siding, a simple design is required– it’s easy to do, and the most interesting thing is that, using such a frame, you can lay insulation inside, significantly reducing the heat loss of the building. A device of this design allows the use of various types of insulation - from elementary to the most modern, and in such a way that it will not be visually noticeable in its finished form.
4. Siding has excellent performance properties: it calmly withstands any atmospheric conditions - precipitation, wind, frost and high temperature without changing its properties or appearance. Some sellers of construction hypermarkets dissuade buyers from siding, citing the fact that, when exposed to direct sunlight, the colored types of this material can fade. Actually this is not true. Only low quality material or materials not intended for use in such conditions can fade in the sun.
5. A variety of textures and shades of siding. Of course, one cannot fail to note the variety of textures and shades of siding presented on the shelves of modern stores. Manufacturers produce siding that imitates stone, boards, or any natural materials; its shade can be very diverse. This is exactly the type of material that can be easily matched to absolutely any façade style.
6. Easy care. Elementary simple care of the finished finish is also an important advantage. No special means or measures are needed - the siding is easily cleaned of dust and dirt with ordinary water.
7. Ease of installation. Finally, for handymen, the most important advantage of this material will be ease of installation. It is quite possible to install siding yourself, having only superficial knowledge of construction or finishing work.

For all its undeniable advantages, siding, like any other material, cannot but have disadvantages. They are:

1. Weak strength against mechanical damage. Unfortunately, such a convenient material in every sense can be easily damaged even without hitting it particularly hard. This is especially true in the case of finishing the base - since it is precisely in the area of ​​the most frequent mechanical damage.
2. When installing siding panels, it is necessary to take into account that the seams between them are rubbed with a special compound– this will make them invisible.
3. By itself, siding is a thin and cold material. That is, if you do not plan to use it for it, think carefully about whether you will get a warm enough building after the renovation.

Despite its shortcomings, siding continues to be a popular finishing material today. It is used in a variety of cases, including for finishing the base - this option goes well with siding finishing the entire facade, as well as with other types.

A convenient and practical material for finishing many construction projects, including the basement of a house. As you know, the base must be protected as reliably as possible from moisture, precipitation, sunlight and similar natural influences. - metal shaped sheet, thickness from 0.5 to 0.9 mm - excellent for installing such protection.

Profiled sheets can be offered for sale in various widths, but the height is usually two meters. To finish the base, as a rule, an ordinary wall corrugated sheet is used; it is designated PS-8, PS-10, S-8 and S-10. You should also pay attention to the color options; this material is presented in about fifty shades.

But it is worth considering that different manufacturers paint their products differently, therefore, you need to buy this material at a time, from one batch - otherwise, there may be problems with the different colors of the finished finish.

The corrugated appearance of the corrugated sheet can be used as a design move by placing the sheet both vertically and horizontally and even diagonally to the main facade of the building.

Since the corrugated sheet is attached to a specially constructed frame made of a U-shaped profile, it is usually used in some form to increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the building.

Among the obvious advantages of profiled sheets, the following should be noted:

1. Good strength characteristics. Metal sheet is reliable and dignified, you don’t have to worry about atmospheric phenomena.
2. Quite an interesting look– the main thing is to successfully select the remaining finishing materials, harmoniously combining the corrugated sheet with the appearance of the entire building as a whole.
3. Resistant to corrosion– does not rust, since the corrugated sheet is sold painted or galvanized.
4. Fairly affordable price.

The disadvantages of the profiled sheet are:

1. Low heat resistance. The corrugated sheet itself is cold and without a special insulation system, it is not advisable to use it.
2. Not suitable for every building style. Profiled sheet is, one might say, a minimalist design that needs to be carefully combined with other materials.

Profiled sheeting is a modern and original way of finishing a base; there are not many varieties of it, but still, from the range of colors available, you can choose exactly what you need. As for durability and strength, its properties are excellent.

The finish for the plinth must first of all be durable, so it is worth choosing a material that will be reliable and durable, while taking into account the current climatic operating conditions. Secondly, the basement decoration decides a lot in the overall appearance of the building; an incorrectly selected color or texture can visually ruin the rest of the façade.

Therefore, it is important to take into account the compatibility of the material for finishing the basement with the overall house. Both shades and relief are important here - they should harmonize or be contrasting. A small but significant factor is also the style of the building. If this is a classic, then there is no need to decorate the base with colored corrugated sheets, and if we are talking about asceticism, then natural granite would be inappropriate here. These are, of course, more subtle nuances, but it is also advisable to pay attention to them, showing a sense of taste and proportion properly.

Currently, the construction market is so diverse that there is plenty to choose from. A wide variety of materials are available, both in appearance, characteristics, and cost. The choice is yours!

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Do-it-yourself finishing of the base with stone - 2 proven and reliable options

As you know, the base is the visible above-ground part of the foundation of the house. The foundation is the basis of the entire structure, and the durability of your home directly depends on its safety. Consequently, protecting the base from natural and many other adversities is not a whim of the designer, but an urgent necessity. In this article we will talk about what kind of stone is currently used for such work, and I will also dwell in detail on two options for finishing the base with natural and artificial stone with your own hands.

Types and features of the material

Stone has been used for finishing the basement of a house since time immemorial. It has a large arsenal of various advantages. But if earlier it was exclusively natural stone, now, in more than half of the cases, the base is finished with artificial stone.

• Natural granite has always been considered the king of basement cladding. Its natural characteristics are perfectly suited for use in this sector. This finishing stone can easily withstand both the July heat and bitter January frosts. Moreover, for granite it is absolutely not important in which climate zone it is installed.
  The material is presented on the market in the form of slabs with a thickness of 10 mm or more, and is also sold in solid boulders. Naturally, for finishing work we are only interested in slabs;
• Many wealthy people unknowingly order marble finishing for the base, but in this case it is not always justified. The fact that this material is incredibly expensive is not the worst thing. Marble is a rather capricious rock and can be used in warm and temperate climates. But, starting from the middle zone of our great homeland and further to the north, it is undesirable to decorate the base with marble.
  With increased humidity, which is always present in the base area, and temperature changes, the marble begins to crack and gradually crumble. Therefore, if you really want, then the base can be finished with granite, and then marble;

• The best seller at the moment is slate. This material is also called shepherdess. It is a layered rock that has a fairly dense structure and at the same time is easy to process.
  Slate has excellent strength and durability characteristics. And the best part is the relatively affordable price. If you don’t have a lot of money, but you really want a natural material, then slate is your option;
• We often hear about the magnificent qualities of shell rock. If you are building a house, then shell rock blocks are a good choice. But it is not very suitable for finishing the base. The fact is that shell rock is perhaps the most porous of building materials; only cellular concrete is lighter than it. And since the material is porous, it is able to absorb moisture. As a result, after several freezing cycles, the cladding will slowly begin to crumble;

• Sandstone is a fairly common rock. This material is relatively inexpensive and is quite suitable for basement cladding. The only problem is that the color range here is small, in fact, there is none at all.
  So, as a decorative stone, sandstone is rather weak. Although no one is stopping you from painting your base in any color you like or covering the sandstone with colored façade varnish. But we will talk about the intricacies of this process a little later;
• There are also quartzite, dolomite, lemesite, shigunite and a number of other minerals and rocks. But they can rather be classified as narrow-profile, since they are often used in the area in which they are mined.

Finishing with so-called wild stone cannot be attributed to any rock or mineral. In fact, it can be any stone, including artificial, as long as no traces of manual processing are visible on it. The easiest way out in this case is to use river or sea pebbles.

As I already said, artificial stone is now very widely used for finishing the base. Good chemists have achieved such perfection in this matter that the guarantee for most materials on the market starts at 50 years.

As such, there is no gradation by variety; the name is assigned depending on the use of a particular filler in production.

Briefly described, the production technology is based on the fact that some natural material is taken, crushed and recombined using a polymer binder. So this stone can only be called half artificial.

As you understand, the shape, color and texture of such cladding can be given any shape. To be honest, working with such material is a pleasure. After all, such tiles have clearly defined dimensions, and most importantly, they weigh an order of magnitude less. For a beginning master, this is what you need.

Separately, it is worth mentioning about flexible stone. It is positioned as a thin slice of natural stone, additionally reinforced with polymer.

This cladding looks quite decent. Flexible stone is produced in the form of wallpaper and tiles. Naturally, only tiles can be used for the base.

But to be honest, in my lifetime I have never seen a base being lined with flexible stone. Firstly, the price for it is fabulous. And secondly, the maximum thickness of the tile is about 3 mm.

Accordingly, this material cannot be considered as serious protection for the base. Plus, flexible stone is now considered one of the market leaders in terms of the number of fakes of dubious quality.

If you have very little money, but you really want to see a decorative stone on the base of your house, then you can line it with cement to look like a stone. I won’t undertake to say for sure, but it is believed that this is the know-how of exclusively our enterprising people.

I will tell you how to cladding with cement mortar under stone a little later, in method No. 2. And now I will tell you step by step all the intricacies of finishing with artificial and wild stone.

Two ways to cover a plinth for those who like to do everything themselves

Finishing the base with natural stone with your own hands is divided into several stages. This is the application of primer, arrangement of the base, the actual installation itself and the finishing of the masonry. But even before starting work, it is advisable to decide on the binder for the masonry.

Glue or cement mortar

Until recently, all such work was carried out exclusively using cement-sand mortar; there was simply nothing else. Now store shelves are filled with a variety of adhesives. But they cost an order of magnitude more than cement-sand mortar.

Personally, I always try to lay finishing stone using modern adhesives, mainly Ceresit. But many people, as a rule, to save money, prefer to install stone with cement mortar the old fashioned way. I'm not saying that this is bad, it's just that not every stone can be laid on a cement-sand mortar.

• The first category of stones is low-porosity, these include slate, dark granite and quartzite. These are moisture-resistant materials, their level of absorption is quite low and therefore they can be laid both on and on the solution;

• Dark marble, light granite and sandstone are medium-porous stones. In theory, they can still be mounted on a simple solution, but this can only be done in warm and temperate climates. In general, it’s better not to take risks here and buy good glue;
• If you are dealing with white granite, white marble, travertine, as well as any types of limestone, then you can simply ruin them with a cement-sand mortar. These materials are mounted exclusively with specialized glue.

As for artificial stones, each of them has instructions that clearly indicate which types of glue should be used for installation. In most cases, adhesive is used to lay heavy tiles, although there are exceptions. It is better not to use ordinary cement mortar for installing artificial materials at all.

Preparing the base

The above-mentioned slate or plastic sheet now occupies the lion's share of the market for external facade cladding using natural materials. Therefore, further we will consider all actions using the example of slate cladding.

First, you will need to inspect your foundation for defects. Natural stone is heavy, so it is mounted either on a solid strip foundation or on a foundation made of FBS blocks.

If this is a solid cast version, then only random sagging will need to be knocked down, but they are rare, since the monolith is poured into the formwork, and it is often flat. In a block foundation, of course, you will have to seal all the seams between the blocks; cement-sand mortar will help you here.

The next step is to cover the base with primer. Since we are dealing with a concrete base, the ideal solution would be the good old concrete contact. For a strip monolith, you can take any option.

But for a block structure, you should take coarse-grained soil. And since FBS blocks are absolutely smooth, they need to be primed with at least 2 layers.

While the soil is drying, you can do another important preparation step. Almost all heavy types of cladding that are usually mounted on mortar require additional reinforcement of the surface, because glue alone, even a very good one, is not enough to hold such weight.

To reinforce the base, metal mesh is traditionally used. It is better to take medium or small cell size. This mesh is attached to “Quick Installation” dowels with wide washers.

If possible, it is better to fasten the mesh to the concrete base with steel construction dowels. But driving them into concrete, especially into FBS blocks, with a simple hammer or sledgehammer is very problematic. Here you will need a construction gun, but it is expensive and only professionals have it.

Now many owners insulate the foundation and, naturally, the basement of the house. So, if you are going to install insulation, then only extruded polystyrene foam is suitable for stone. Now it is better known as Penoplex, although this is only a trademark.

It is strictly forbidden to install such common insulation materials as polystyrene foam or mineral wool on a base, and especially under a heavy stone. “Penoplex” itself is glued to the concrete using “Ceresit CT83”, after which a chain-link is mounted on it.

Method No. 1: installation of natural or artificial stone on the base

As a rule, plastic sheets in construction stores are sold packaged in square stacks. You can still choose the average thickness of the tiles, but the dimensions will be different. By the way, to finish the base it is better to take stones with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm.

So, in order not to “rip up” the entire stack later, take the time and immediately disassemble the entire stone into three piles. Place large stones in one pile, medium ones in the second, and all the small items in the third.

If the height of the plinth does not exceed 1 m, then it makes sense to measure the same distance nearby on the ground and lay out the whole. No matter how strange it may sound, this technique will save you a lot of time. Construction adhesive sets quite quickly, and while working, every minute counts.

It is very important how you lay the bottom row, or rather, what it will rest on. Usually there are 2 options:

• According to the first option, the soil is first selected and the resulting pit is filled in and the backfill is compacted for the future blind area. It is on this backfill that the cladding rests. But there is a rather unpleasant moment here: no matter how you compact the fill, it will still settle over time and there is a possibility of cracks appearing on the plinth lining;
• The second option provides for rigid fastening at the level of the same backfill of a steel corner with a wing of at least 45 mm. But you understand that sooner or later the steel corner will rot and the cladding may settle. Although you have about 10 years until this sad moment.

I do it a little differently. First, you will need to select medium-sized dies, you need to select them in such a way that they are almost completely hidden under the blind area.

Then, supported by compacted fill, these dies are placed on construction adhesive. This will be our bottom support row, and so that it does not sag over time, at the end of the work, that is, after the glue has set, I drill through holes through the tiles directly into the foundation.

Then I drive galvanized or nickel-plated anchor bolts with a cross-section of at least 10 mm into these holes. In this way, we are guaranteed to insure the bottom row from subsidence.

The system for laying the top rows of plasterboard is quite simple. First you need to glue the largest fragments, and all the gaps that will inevitably remain between them are filled with medium and small stones. The glue is applied to the wall with a trowel, and to the stone with a notched trowel.

Once the glue has set well, you will need to caulk the seams between the stones. Special grout is sold for these purposes.

You can buy it at any hardware store. But it’s better to buy it together with the stone, so you can choose the color. As a rule, sellers offer it along with the stone.

As for artificial stone, as I already said, it has clearly defined dimensions. And it installs in much the same way as standard tiles.

When laying standard tiles, plastic crosses are used to provide gaps. And when installing some models of artificial stone, it is undesirable to make gaps. So, if you don’t have any experience at all, then it’s better to forget about the recommendations and lay the stone with gaps, then sand the seams. Believe me, it will turn out better this way.

If you plan to varnish, then you can start doing this after about 3 to 4 days, when the grout and glue are completely dry. There is nothing complicated in the process itself. Just sweep away the dust and apply at least 2 layers of any waterproof façade varnish.

Method number 2: making a stone from cement

Finishing the base with a stone look using ordinary cement, of course, does not look as luxurious as granite or plastic, but with a creative approach to the matter, it has a right to exist. Thus, I covered the basement at the dacha.

In this case, a coating of large pebbles will be simulated. The technology itself does not cause difficulties even for novice craftsmen. By the way, there is no need to level the concrete strip or seal the seams on the block foundation.

The brand of cement should be higher, I used M500. Initially, an ordinary cement-sand mortar is mixed in a standard proportion of 1:3. But the solution needs to be made a little thicker than, for example, for brickwork. After all, you will have to form the “stones” with your own hands and you need to ensure that they do not spread.

Then, according to the scheme described above, cover the concrete with soil a couple of times. And as the “stones” are formed, sculpt these “stones” onto a surface moistened with water. Ideally, of course, it is better to fill the reinforcing mesh. But if the height of the base does not exceed half a meter, then you can do without it.

After the base is lined, let the cement set a little, but not completely. While it is still wet you need to restore its beauty. That is, draw the boundaries between your improvised stones using jointing or simply a finger dipped in water.

The stones themselves should be wiped with a sponge or rag soaked in water. This is necessary to remove hand marks, and believe me, they will definitely remain.

But that’s not all: in this form, the masonry will not look very respectable, to put it mildly, so after 2–3 weeks you will have to paint it. Of course, you can get by with store-bought paints and varnishes, but I found a good folk recipe. It looks good and is quite affordable:

• First, you cover the masonry with a blue color, and on top of it, go over another yellowish tint. The result is an almost complete resemblance to green natural stone;
• To make blue paint, you need to take a five percent solution of hydrochloric acid and add copper sulfate to it. The standard proportion is 1:5 (vitriol/acid solution). But the color intensity can be adjusted by adding or, conversely, reducing the amount of copper sulfate;
• To obtain a yellow tint, you need to mix iron sulfate with the same acid solution. Here the proportion will be approximately 1:3. Paint with a regular brush. And don't be afraid to experiment with shades.

Both of these folk paints are prepared within 24 hours. That is, after mixing the ingredients, the solution should be allowed to sit for 24 hours. But such paints can stay in your closet as long as you like, the main thing is not to forget to close it tightly.

Paints are applied in a row with a break of no more than 2 - 3 hours. Next you need to let them absorb well, this can take up to 7 hours, after which you take a brush and wash your masonry under running water.

If you like it, then after a day you wash it again with water and leave it to dry. If you are not satisfied with the result, you can repeat everything again, but I was satisfied with everything the first time.

For varnishing, the same waterproof varnish for exterior use is used, it needs to be processed 2 times or more, decide for yourself. It is applied to a dry surface with a simple brush.

Although, to enhance the effect of the masonry, I additionally took and painted with simple paint the entire joint between the stones, it turned out quite well.

Conclusion

Natural or artificial stone for finishing the basement of a house, in my opinion, is perfect. And don’t be afraid to do everything yourself; there is nothing particularly difficult in this process. The photos and videos in this article contain some more aspects of arranging the base with stone. If you have any questions, write them in the comments and we’ll talk.

Finishing the basement, on the one hand, is simpler than the facade: there are no special aesthetic and architectural subtleties here. The base can harmonize or contrast with the overall design of the building in tone, texture, and type of material used, see fig. Eager pedants just need to point to the Erechtheion, the Roman Baths or any of the Gothic cathedrals - and let them say what they want.

Examples of finishing the basement of private houses

For small individual construction, the false plinth option is also of particular interest (photo below right in the figure): the strip protruding foundation is finished without any complaints, as long as it lasts for a long time, and the wall belt above it imitates a high plinth. This allows you to fully concentrate technically on the correct arrangement of a very critical place in the entire structure of the house - the junction of the wall with the plinth (foundation protrusion); in particular, on the ebb tide device, see below, without compromising the appearance of the house.

On the other hand, the cladding of the base is subjected to intense exposure to chemical (atmospheric moisture, dirt, organic matter from the soil), physical (temperature and humidity changes) and mechanical abrasive agents (wind-blown grains of sand). The concentration in the air of dust, dirt and splashes of solutions of soil components depend on the height above the ground according to a power law and within 50 cm from the ground they fall relative to the zero height of the building by 10 times or more. Therefore, both the materials for finishing the base and the methods of working with them require a more careful approach than for finishing the facade.

Thirdly, finishing the base with stone or other durable, resistant and heavy material almost always does not cause any technical difficulties, because the height of the base usually does not exceed 80 cm; in extreme cases - up to 2 m, for a house with a basement, and the basement itself is made of durable materials, otherwise it simply will not bear the weight, climatic and operational loads. So the material for cladding the base can be chosen, limited only by financial considerations.

The basement of a residential building is clad in the order of work at the final stage of construction - exterior finishing. In general, the finishing of the basement of the house is carried out in stages in the following order:

• A trench is dug under the blind area with a depth of approx. 30 cm (on the bayonet of a shovel) or 15-20 cm deeper under the blind area with insulation;
• A sand and gravel cushion is placed in the trench, and optionally, insulation is also placed;
• The base is rough finished in order to level its surface;
• A blind area is being built;
• Decorative finishing of the base is carried out;
• Only after this does all other work on the exterior decoration of the building begin, incl. façade cladding.

It is not recommended to violate this sequence, especially for inexperienced amateur builders, but in some cases, discussed below, this is possible, for example. if the basement of an existing building is being covered or repaired. In this case, the design of the base plays a decisive role in the complexity of the work and the possibility of using one or another finishing material.

Base and low tide

Finishing the base of a private house with regard to the choice of material and method of its installation largely depends on the design of the base itself and its cast. The junction of the load-bearing wall with the plinth is the most likely place for moisture to penetrate into the gap between them, causing the walls to become damp. The waterproofing doesn't let it in from below, that's why they put it there. But the water flowing into the walls can also leak under the wall along the same waterproofing, this is the so-called. capillary damming. To prevent this, a low tide is installed above the base.

Base design options with low tide

Possible design options for a base with low tide are shown in Fig. If the base sinks (pos. 1), you are in luck. A simple single flashing is installed between layers of insulation; if there is a teardrop groove (dropper) knocked out at the bottom of the wall extension, pos. 1a, then capillary damming of the walls is excluded. But then either the wall should be 2.5 bricks thick, or the basement floor should be slab, pos. 1b. Budget developers avoid the last option - it’s a bit expensive - but in vain: then, during the operation of the house, the slab floor more than pays for itself. Moreover, on, in fact, the second foundation of the house, you can build a lighter and cheaper box. Also in this case, you can build from foam/gas blocks, then lining the house with brick, which looks solid and is inexpensive.

More often, however, there are houses on a protruding plinth, pos. 2. The technology for preventing capillary damming in this case is known, this is a double ebb, pos. 2a. Its outer tray (extension) is installed upon completion of the decorative finishing of the base and facade, so that it can be changed as it wears out. For reliability, silicone is applied to the surface of the rim (upper bend, fold) of the tray adjacent to the wall before installation.

Now on sale there are “eternal” ebbs made of propylene or stainless steel; their durability exceeds the estimated service life of residential buildings of conventional construction. With an “eternal” ebb, the task of keeping the wall dry is simplified: the base is completely finished, and the ebb is placed on the wall before facing it with a moisture-proof material, for example. waterproof plaster, clinker or thermal panels with glue. The rim of the ebb turns out to be walled up in the façade cladding, pos. 2b, and water will no longer flow under the wall.

Note: The same methods for installing a low tide are applicable for houses on a base flush with the wall, although in general a “flat” base is bad in all respects.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, the ebb as such is abandoned, replacing it with a brick cornice. This is possible, but the facing brick on the cornice must be taken so-called. hyperpressed (hyperformed), the eaves-drip seams should be rubbed flush, and the masonry mortar and grout should be waterproof and moisture-proof with polymer additives. In amateur conditions, you can prepare them with your own hands by adding 1-3 cups of PVA or polymer tile adhesive such as bustylate to a cement-sand mortar from M200 and grout for external use. You can also use glue for porcelain tiles or clinker (terracotta) tiles.

Hyperpressed brick is often falsified. The real one can be recognized by its uniform structure, the absence of visible inclusions and the even dark color of the matte or semi-matte surface, the so-called. “chocolate” bricks, pos. 3. On ordinary (quite suitable for their purpose) facing bricks that form a cast, after a winter or two the core will appear and efflorescence will begin to appear, pos. 3a, which means break the basement cladding and redo the ebb while the wall is frozen.

Finally, wooden houses are built almost exclusively on protruding plinths: the minimum permissible width of the foundation strip here turns out to be greater than the thickness of the wall, and it is impossible to place a log house or frame on a concrete slab for a number of reasons. In this case, the ebb can only be double; its options for a log or timber and frame house are shown in pos. 4 and 5. In a log/timber house, the fastening of the rim of the outer tray is sealed with silicone; in a frame house this is not required, because The wall cladding also serves as a teardrop.

Note: in all cases of using double ebb, the distance between the eaves of the inner and outer trays must be at least 10-12 mm at any place.

Preparation for cladding

The most difficult and time-consuming part of the work on finishing the base is leveling its surface for cladding; the base can be made of rubble stone, concrete blocks (possibly old, crumbling at the edges) or the above-ground part of the concrete foundation. In this case, the easiest way to prepare it for cladding with your own hands is to plaster it with cement-sand or cement-lime starting (rough) plaster for exterior work. You can make your own knead using the hydrophobic method described above (PVA, bustilate, etc.).

Leveling the surface of the plinth for lining with starting plaster using a reinforcing mesh.

To level with plaster, the base is treated with a deep penetration primer on the appropriate material (stone, brick, concrete), large protrusions are roughly knocked down, patching is done as needed with cement-sand mortar and a steel reinforcing mesh with a thickness of approx. 4 mm, see fig. I use a plaster solution that is thick and does not float; The layer is 1.5-2 mesh thickness. Rub it smoothly with a polisher immediately, without waiting for it to set. After setting, check the evenness with a lath (the norm is 3 mm/m), rub and re-coat as necessary. It is advisable to first make a separate plot of 1-1.5 square meters. m, after that the “teapot” with its hands from where it is necessary will at least put the start quite level under the cladding.

Materials and technologies

Materials for cladding the base, as stated above, must be resistant to thermal, chemical, mechanical influences and abrasion. Modern materials for finishing the plinth, depending on the price and complexity of the work, are generally divided into the following classes:

• Painted waterproof plaster is the simplest and cheapest option. It is best suited for a low, up to 40 cm, base, the finishing of which is still not clearly visible. Maintainability is limited, because It is difficult to choose paint for a patch that exactly matches the existing one.
• Artificial stone - in terms of complexity and cost, covering the base with it is comparable to plaster. The appearance is 3+ or 4–, but tracing the corners is much simpler, see below. Maintainability is complete.
• Natural (wild) stone and facing brick - lining the base with them can be inexpensive and does not require much labor, but if the base and blind area are insulated, the complexity of the work increases many times, also see below. Maintainability is very limited: it is very difficult to remove the damaged fragment(s) without disturbing the cladding over a sufficiently large area.
• Flexible stone – in terms of the combination of parameters price/quality/appearance/technical capabilities, it has no equal. Finishing the base with flexible stone is also possible in a budget option. Maintainability is complete.
• Basement siding - depending on the region, it can be cheaper than plaster, and in appearance it is superior to artificial stone (not natural!). Correct installation is not difficult, but requires certain knowledge and skills. Maintainability is complete, but repairs are quite labor-intensive.
• Basement cladding panels (not façade!) are somewhat more expensive than base siding with the same decorative qualities, but lack its weak points (see below). Maintainability is limited for the same reasons as with wild stone and brick.
• Clinker (terracotta) and porcelain tiles are the most expensive and labor-intensive, but the most resistant and durable option. If you need a plinth surface to look like a noble polished stone, then porcelain stoneware is practically the only option at a reasonable price.

Plaster

There is no point in finishing the base with a beautiful, but not very durable finishing decorative plaster in this place. It is best to simply paint the rough base for finishing with alkyd enamels for exterior use. Yacht enamels will cost a little more, but will last much longer. The option is still a little more expensive, but even more durable and absolutely waterproof - the so-called. latex acrylic paints or acrylic emulsions; When dry, they give a layer similar to thick rubber, only colored.

The plastered plinth can be immediately finished to look like stone using silicone stamps. A set of stamps costs about 500 rubles, but you can make them yourself. In general, plastering a plinth under a stone is carried out as follows:

• Select samples (models) of natural stone of any type of suitable size and more or less matching along the contour, without overlap, up to 12-15 mm thick.
• For each model, a plywood or plank box is made - flask - with sides 2-3 cm higher than the stone.
• The models are generously soaked in mineral oil (you can use engine oil) and dried for 2-3 days.
• Next, the models are lubricated with Vaseline (lanolin), each is placed in its own mold and filled with silicone. Before doing this, the inside of the investment rings also needs to be coated with Vaseline.
• After the silicone has hardened, the flasks are disassembled, the models are pulled out from the stamp blanks (don’t be afraid to pull, silicone is stretchable and durable) and the stamps are cut with a knife along the contour with an allowance for the width of the seam.
• A layer of thick mortar up to 16 mm thick is applied to the base prepared as described above and stamped immediately until it sets.
• Once the coating has completely hardened, it is painted.

Fake diamond

Finishing the basement of the house with artificial stone.

Cladding the base of a house with artificial stone, despite all its mediocre advantages, is good for budget developers in that the forms for the corner elements (see figure) can be made independently. Corners are the weakest points of the cladding; this is where masonry seams begin to crack and moisture under the cladding creeps exactly where it shouldn’t. They mount artificial stone on a plinth or similarly to natural stone without insulation, or on tile adhesive like tiles (see both below),

Methods for making artificial stone with your own hands are described in other materials; Any type suitable for paving paths will be suitable for the plinth. You can also make homemade artificial stone for cladding the base from the same plaster mortar. The working process differs from the production of stamps for stone in that it is not necessary to select models so strictly by thickness and that the casting mass is tinted in advance, which makes the color more durable; see video below. The technology for making artificial stone from plaster with your own hands is not strict; different options are possible here.

Wild stone and brick

The natural stone for cladding the base should be chosen to be heavy, with low moisture absorption, i.e. not susceptible to frost. Shales, sandstones, limestone, dolomite, travertine and tuffs are definitely not suitable. The best are granite, diorite, diabase, basalt, gabbro and other rocks that can withstand at least 1000 cycles of complete freezing/thawing. Given the current climate changes, this is not so much; in Central Russia in the off-season there can be a full cycle every day.

The technology for cladding a plinth with natural stone depends significantly on whether it is insulated or not. Without insulation, the matter is simpler; you just need to fulfill the following conditions (see figure on the right):

Note: Don't be afraid of moss and lichen on a stone plinth. They will not spoil the stone at all, they will only add chic to the house. Mold and efflorescence (salt stains on soaked and then dried out areas) are the bad things. But on the stones of the above-mentioned species, both do not happen.

Finishing the base with facing brick differs from facing it with wild stone, firstly, in that the masonry joints make the thickness of 10-13 mm normal for brickwork. Secondly, the masonry mortar must be waterproof with a plasticizer (see above), because Moisture likes to linger in the seams of brickwork and dirt accumulates. Thirdly, it is very, very advisable to use hyper-pressed brick, as for brick casting, see above.

Facing the base with natural stone and brick becomes seriously more complicated if the walls, foundation and base are insulated. Then not only does the heavy cladding have nothing to hold on to, but there is also a danger of capillary moisture penetrating into the insulation. What type of work is required to avoid both can be imagined by looking at the diagram of stone cladding of an insulated base in Fig.:

Scheme of stone cladding of the base with insulation

And the matter will become even more complicated if the basement of an existing house is covered, because... the retaining wall will shrink. In this case, it is better to cover the stone base with siding, panels, and, if you want the high cost to immediately catch your eye, with tiles. But first, let's finish with stone materials.

Flexible stone

Flexible stone in some sources is presented as a kind of “flexible tile on polymer resins.” Apparently, those authors remember the old Soviet flexible facing tiles, which, as they say, have been around for a long time. That's where it belongs: polymer tiles dried out, contracted, cracked, and quickly wore out in heated rooms.

Flexible stone for finishing and cladding

The binder of the flexible stone is indeed synthetic resins, but not the mythical “polymer” ones, but polyester and urea, but the essence of this material is a textile base sprinkled with stone chips. The advantages of flexible stone as an external facing material are truly magnificent (see figure):

• Safe, environmentally friendly, chemically and mechanically resistant, chemically neutral.
• Estimated service life is over 150 years.
• Easy to process, can be cut with scissors.
• It shines through, you can hide the illuminators behind the cladding or even make a street lamp from flexible stone, which during the day, when turned off, will be a sculpture to match the decoration of the house.
• Available in an innumerable variety of unique textures and colors, completely consistent with natural ones, both solid and torn, with intervals to imitate masonry joints.
• The flexible stone can be used to trace curved surfaces and corners without any problems.
• There is no façade, plinth, external or internal flexible stone; it is suitable for all types of finishing work. The same material can be used to decorate the base, window and door trim, balcony, cornice, etc.
• Finishing the base of a house with flexible stone on a difficult terrain (uneven slope, etc.) costs 7-20 times less than cladding with any other material comparable in decorative qualities and durability.
• Careful preparation of the surface for flexible stone is not required. If the unevenness does not exceed 10-12 mm, the flexible stone is simply laid on tile adhesive (the minimum layer above the protrusions of the base is 2 mm). Otherwise, the potholes are roughly covered with cement-sand mortar. Which in any case won’t hurt to save expensive glue.

Flexible stone has only two disadvantages: it is rough; There are no glossy or semi-gloss (polished) finishes. Then, the base for the flexible stone needs to be strong, so you can’t glue it directly onto the insulation or SMP (see below), you first need to prepare the plaster base, as described above.

Basement siding panel

The base of the house is covered with special base siding, which is more wear-resistant and durable than façade siding. Basement siding is available in PVC and propylene. The former is cheaper, brighter and can be glossy; the second one is more stable. Externally, basement siding differs from facade siding in that it is made not of boards, but of slabs with tongue-and-groove joints with snaps, see fig. Therefore, it is possible to file the basement siding to size only at the corners, and the seam must be covered with a standard additional element. The basement siding is mounted on a horizontal sheathing made of wood or steel profile using hardware (screws).

Siding cladding is the least labor-intensive way to finish a stone base at an affordable cost; it also makes no difference whether the house is old or new. But the “law of free cheese” is adamant here too: serious problems with covering the base with siding are, firstly, damage to the sheathing, secondly, the accumulation of moisture in the cavities under the sheathing, and thirdly, the settlement of insects and rodents there. As a result, the cladding is not so cheap and simple due to the difficulties with the blind area.

The general installation diagram for basement siding is shown in Fig. below; drainage is highly desirable in fairly dry areas. Installation of basement siding is carried out after the blind area has been completely arranged. At the bottom and at the top, deformation gaps of 10-15 mm are left, which are foamed, sealed with plastic glue recommended by the manufacturer (for example, CM14) and covered with additional elements (plinth, cornice).

Basement siding installation diagram

However, each manufacturer of plinth siding struggles with the problems of its product in its own way, which, by the way, indicates that there is no optimal solution yet. Therefore, if you choose siding for the plinth, then:

• Ask the supplier or search the manufacturer’s website for the material specification and make sure it suits your conditions (temperature range, annual precipitation, soil properties, plinth design and material, building design).
• Use extensions, sheathing material, fasteners and sealant of the recommended types.
• Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions exactly.
• In no case do not skimp on the starting and finishing bars: moisture, dirt, mice and spiders with their relatives are just waiting for that.

Panels and slabs

Finishing the base with panels is somewhat more complicated and more expensive than siding, but does not have its disadvantages, because There is no sheathing with its pockets; the panels are installed with glue. Metal composite panels, however, are mounted on the sheathing, but they are rarely used for finishing private houses because of their utilitarian appearance. Most often, the base is finished with facade thermal panels with clinker stone overlays and polyurethane insulation; they are quite suitable for this purpose. The paneled base looks no worse than under the siding. Thermal panels are mounted on the base in the same way as on the facade; surface leveling to an unevenness of 3 mm/m is required. Insulation is obtained automatically.

You can also find recommendations to finish the base with glass-magnesite plates (GMP), but this is far from the best option: GMP are fragile and have little resistance to abrasion and soil chemicals. On the outside, at resorts, the facades of rental houses are sometimes finished in a half-timbered style with high-quality SMP (on the right in the figure), but such cladding lasts for 10-15 years, and during this time it is necessary to make 2-3 cosmetic repairs.

Glass-magnesite panels (GMP)

In private construction, SMP is sometimes used as permanent formwork for a towering strip foundation, which, in general, is good in all respects except price. In this case, the SMP above the ground can be prepared for finishing, as described above, only the mesh fasteners need to be taken longer so that the screws sit in the base. And then natural stone and brick as finishing for the base disappear: under the weight, the cladding will peel off along with the plaster and mesh.

Tile

Tiling the base is a poor man's solution left over from Soviet times. The porous material absorbs moisture, and the glaze loses its appearance due to the appearance of microcracks and the influence of grains of sand. The plinth is finished with either clinker (terracotta) or porcelain tiles. Covering the base of an existing house with tiles is technologically no different from that during the construction process, which is a definite advantage. But in both cases, the work is very labor-intensive and requires fairly high qualifications: the base surface is leveled and its patching repairs are carried out. Then the base is primed with a deep penetration primer. The tiles are placed on glue (layer - 2-3 mm) in sections 1-1.5 m long. Immediately, before the glue has set, the tiles are fixed with crosses or other dividers (see figure), otherwise the cladding will slip. Separators are also placed at the bottom; a gap of 10-12 mm is needed there, which is subsequently sealed with the same glue. The next section is coated after the glue on the previous one has hardened.

Tiling the plinth

Note: It is impossible to prepare the surface for tiles using the method described above (mesh + plaster), otherwise the lining will peel off.

If you still want to decorate your base with tiles (it looks rich, nothing can be said), then it is better to cover it with porcelain stoneware. Firstly, the hardness of porcelain stoneware is comparable to the hardness of sapphire and corundum; it doesn’t care about sand. Secondly, strong inorganic acids, except hydrofluoric and fluorine-antimony, do not affect porcelain stoneware. Thirdly, porcelain stoneware is produced in slabs up to 30x60 cm, so the work won’t be such a hassle. Fourthly, it is possible to split porcelain stoneware on a solid base and with a sufficiently elastic layer under the tile only with a shot from a rifled weapon; Buckshot fired from a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun from a distance of 15 m flattens and bounces. Fifthly, porcelain stoneware slabs are also available with a glossy surface, almost indistinguishable from polished stone. Sixth, due to the low TCR (thermal expansion coefficient), porcelain tiles on the plinth can be laid “without a seam”, i.e. with a seam 1-2 mm thick, which enhances the decorative effect.

And more about the stone

Let's look again at what types of stone are suitable for cladding the base. Yes, this is... a heavy boot! Fractionated broken stone is not cheap, but if you order a dump truck of solid rubble and sort through it yourself, you will find enough pieces to build a stone plinth, and, smaller ones, to later fill the recesses between large fragments. So, while building, as they say, tightly on a budget, also consider the option of a stone base. There is no need for cladding/finishing as such, but with 100% natural stone any house will look solid.

The base is the part of the foundation that rises above ground level. Consequently, the same requirements are imposed on its finishing as on the entire base. It consists of a whole range of measures - arrangement of the blind area, preliminary plastering (not always), waterproofing and a number of others. The nuances are determined by the characteristics of each structure and local conditions.

But when all the work is completed, the question arises - how to decorate the base presentably? It is desirable that it is both beautiful and not too expensive and complicated. There are more than enough materials for finishing the base. But the price of some products is such that not everyone is able to “spend” that kind of money. In addition, the installation of some products requires experience and special equipment, which is also associated with additional costs. And from this point of view, there are not so many options for inexpensive finishing.

Plaster

This design is suitable for buildings built from almost any material (cellular concrete, brick, etc.), with the exception of wood, since it is unlikely that a plastered foundation will harmonize with it.

pros

• Good vapor permeability.
• Resistant to liquids. The degree of moisture permeability depends on the type and amount of special additives introduced into the plaster solution.
• Withstands temperature changes and high temperatures.
• Ease of operation.
• Good maintainability.
• Possibility of simulating various facing materials (for example, natural stone and a number of others). It all depends on the imagination and professionalism of the master.
• If desired, you can regularly change the color scheme of the base at a relatively low cost.
• Minimum costs for materials.

Minuses

• Insufficient strength and, as a result, a short operational period.
• The need to frequently update the paintwork (in case of surface application of the composition).
• Difficulty of care. It is quite problematic to wash off pieces of trapped dirt - basically, only “dry” cleaning. In terms of maintenance, decorative plaster mixtures are preferable, but they are quite expensive.

Finishing features

1. It is first recommended to mount, for example, expanded polystyrene (extruded) slabs on the base. This will both insulate the base and level the surface.
2. A mesh (plaster) is attached to the base thus obtained.
3. Coloring. Naturally, the composition used must meet all the necessary requirements (for example, moisture and frost resistance - read about the choice of paint here).
4. There are conflicting recommendations on the issue of painting plaster. Some people advise introducing the coloring composition directly into the solution. The argument is that even with the slightest damage, the uniformity of the base will not be disrupted.

There is another opinion - to paint “on top”, since such a treatment will clog all the pores and prevent the penetration of moisture. But the question arises - what about vapor permeability? If there is a basement, and even one that is intensively used, this is an important question.

Siding panels

Naturally, this does not mean all those available for sale, but only those that are intended specifically for the base. By the way, they can also be used to decorate walls.

pros

• Durability and reliability of the cladding. It protects the base well.
• Maintenance is not difficult - the panels are easy to clean.
• Possibility of quickly replacing damaged products.

Minuses

• The process is more labor-intensive (read the article on installing siding).
• This type of finishing is more expensive, since the cost of the frame elements (slats, fasteners) is added to the price of the panels.

Finishing features

1. The sheathing is pre-installed. Since the finishing of the base is done from the outside of the building, it is advisable to use metal profiles as slats rather than wood - it is susceptible to rotting.
2. It is necessary to ensure the sealing of all joints, as well as to correctly calculate and maintain the necessary gaps (in case of temperature deformation of the products).

Stone (artificial)

In principle, the method is also relatively inexpensive and effective if you choose the right type of product (temperature of use, strength, and so on).

pros

• It is easy to make artificial stone at home - we wrote about this here. This will slightly increase the time it takes to complete the work, but will significantly reduce its overall cost.
• Variety of cladding options (appearance).
• Durability, long service life.
• Good maintainability.
• Light weight and easy to install. The artificial stone can simply be glued onto the base.

Minuses

• Work is carried out only at “plus” temperatures. This is determined by the properties of the recommended adhesives. It should be noted that some can be worked even at minus temperatures outside. But here a certain difficulty arises - how to correctly calculate the size of the gaps between products? Therefore, “winter” work requires some experience.
• The process is quite painstaking and lengthy; increased attention and accuracy are required.

Finishing features

Much depends on the material on which the imitation of natural stone is made. Practice shows that not everyone can do such work – finishing – on their own. Most likely, you will have to pay for someone’s services.

There is no point in comparing materials by price. They depend on so many factors that it is simply impossible to take everything into account. We must not forget the simple truth - it is not always possible to equate the concepts of “cheap” and “quality”.

Conclusion

Plastering the base is the most economical option that does not require the involvement of professionals. But if financial capabilities allow, then it is better to focus on the 2nd or 3rd options.

• If the house is built on a pile foundation, then a supporting frame is pre-installed, which is sheathed with any material. The main requirement for it is moisture resistance.
• When calculating the cost of work, you need to look not only at the price of the material, but also take into account how much it will cost to install it. In addition, an important factor is the service life. It makes more sense to buy a finishing product that is more expensive and durable than to regularly repair the plinth cladding and at the same time spend money again.

When cladding the facades of a country house, it is worth thinking about the above-ground part of the foundation, which initially looks like a simple concrete wall. The skylight under the building, erected on newfangled screw piles, looks just as ugly. Hence the purpose of our article is to consider what materials are used to decorate the basement of a private house and what is the best way to cover it in certain conditions.

The role of the basement cladding of a private house

We have already mentioned improving the external design with the help of an external finishing layer. But besides being decorative, it also performs other important functions:

• extending the service life of the concrete base by protecting it from moisture, direct sunlight and sudden temperature changes;
• the casing takes on contamination and various mechanical damages;
• protects reinforced concrete from damage by microorganisms - fungi and mold;
• in the case of a pile foundation, it closes the gap between the house and the ground so that the wind does not blow through it.

Before finishing the outside of the base, it must be insulated, these are the requirements of building codes. Thermal insulation is carried out using polymeric water-repellent materials - polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam or by spraying polyurethane foam. After which the insulation layer is decorated on the outside with facing material.

Note. There are special thermal panels for finishing the base that have a thermal insulation layer, which will be discussed below.

1. The entire foundation is subject to insulation - both the above-ground and underground parts to the depth of soil freezing.
2. If the construction of the house is completed, then you need to insulate the basement with a blind area; this is a cheaper option.
3. There is no point in insulating only the basement part, since the cold will penetrate into the building through the ground.
4. External insulation may not be required if the floors throughout the cottage are well insulated, although additional protection would be useful.

Finishing materials

There are quite a few options for finishing the basement of a private house:

• smooth or embossed plaster;
• natural or artificial stone, tiles;
• clinker and other decorative bricks;
• plastic or metal siding;
• a variety of panels with and without a thermal insulation layer.

Now let's look at each option in more detail.

Application of plaster

This is one of the inexpensive ways to finish the foundation, used in houses without special requirements for external design. In addition to being cheap, plastering provides the following advantages:

1. The mortar layer has good vapor permeability, and therefore is successfully applied both to the concrete surface and to the polymer insulation.
2. The ease of performing plastering work allows you to save more money if you do it yourself.
3. Such cladding can be quickly and inexpensively decorated with any color and given a different texture - from a small “fur coat” to an imitation of wild stone, as shown in the photo.
4. Modern plasters can be tinted to the required color without any problems, which saves you from painting work once every 3-5 years.

Reference. The technology for applying plaster is quite simple. For example, a “coat” of liquid solution is thrown in a thin layer onto a moistened base, and the bark beetle is applied and leveled using a rule. The imitation of natural stone is made by hand with a mixture of thick consistency.

The negative side of plaster coatings is their limited service life. Due to exposure to weather conditions and temperature differences, it gradually crumbles, cracks and even breaks off. High-quality plastering will last for about 5 years without problems, and after that it will require periodic repairs. Point two: for obvious reasons, this method is not applicable for buildings on pile foundations.

Stone cladding - pros and cons

To improve the basement of a house, the following types of natural stone are used:

• shell rock;
• limestone;
• sandstone;
• gray and black granite, marble;
• labradorite

This is what granite cladding looks like

Flagstone with polished or chipped edges, cut from rocks, can serve for the entire life of the building. This finish does not lose its excellent appearance for many years, and also does not require maintenance or repair. These are positive aspects, but there are also negative ones:

1. High cost of processed natural stone.
2. You won’t be able to veneer the base yourself; you’ll have to hire specialists, which means additional costs.
3. Due to its decent weight, the material significantly loads the foundation.

Sandstone imitation

You can give your cottage an elite appearance at a lower price if you decorate the basement walls with artificial stone products - tiles made of fiber cement or porcelain stoneware. They are produced on the basis of cement mixtures with various additives by casting in silicone molds and successfully imitate any rocks. Artificial stone is not inferior to natural stone in terms of durability, and it weighs less. But laying tiles on the mortar still requires experience and qualifications, plus labor costs for leveling the surface. All the nuances are described in the video:

Reference. Some manufacturers (for example, the Canyon brand) offer products with metal brackets, fixed with self-tapping screws to a wooden frame or directly to the wall. So, if you wish, you can install the plinth casing yourself.

About brickwork

The benefits of traditional brick cladding are well known to homeowners who have used this method. In terms of durability and respectable appearance, masonry is practically not inferior to stone walls, but has the following features:

1. To cover the base with a full-size brick, you need to arrange a reliable foundation for it. This will not be a problem if such finishing was provided for in advance and the width of the foundation strip allows you to build a half-brick wall on it. Another option is to install a full-fledged blind area connected to the foundation of the house with reinforcement.
2. Brick cladding of the base makes it possible to create an air gap or install insulation in the wall.
3. If you do not use cheap silicate varieties, then the masonry itself will serve as good insulation.
4. To build a facing wall from decorative marks laid out “in a wasteland”, you will have to hire a master mason or spend a long time training yourself.

Note. To reduce the cost of finishing the basement, you can use clinker tiles instead of bricks. The technology of laying on an adhesive mixture is similar to porcelain stoneware cladding.

In terms of construction costs, this method is superior to stone cladding, but will cost more than installing artificial tiles. In addition, a protruding face wall will require a wide flashing around the perimeter of the building.

Siding

Metal and plastic basement sidings can please every homeowner both in price and in the variety of colors and textures. They are offered in the form of strips and panels of various shapes, mounted on a frame made of wood or steel profiles. In addition to the affordable price, the material has the following advantages:

1. Quick and easy installation, thanks to which the owner is able to cover the base with siding himself.
2. Remarkable appearance of a private house.
3. Since the cladding is mounted on a subsystem, insulation of the required thickness can be easily laid underneath it.
4. In case of mechanical damage, damaged elements can be easily replaced.

Reference. Sometimes a budget material is used as siding - profiled wall sheeting. It is equally well suited for decorating small country houses, building fences and light gates.

Inexpensive types of cladding are not ideal. But siding does not have many disadvantages:

• vinyl sheathing is susceptible to burning, and the highest quality is subject to melting from heat;
• polymer painting of metal panels and corrugated sheets fades quite quickly in the sun;
• after 5-10 years (depending on the quality of the products), the appearance of the material deteriorates;
• siding must be periodically washed to remove dust and dirt;
• Accidental mechanical damage leaves scratches on painted metal, and plastic can break under impact load.

Despite these disadvantages, wall and basement siding does not lose popularity. In addition, it is excellent for sewing up the cavities of pile-screw foundations. Read how to perform installation correctly on our other page, and the following video will introduce you to the sheathing process:

Advantages of finishing panels

Since the characteristics and installation method of plastic panels differ little from vinyl siding, we suggest paying attention to other types of products:

• two-layer thermal panels, where polystyrene insulation is glued to an artificial stone base;
• fiber cement products similar to Japanese cladding from the Kmew brand.

The presented finishing materials for the plinth combine the positive aspects of stone and PVC panels, plus they have an acceptable cost. This is a long service life, wonderful appearance and simplified installation using self-tapping screws on the frame or without it.

Thermal panels that imitate stone and brickwork are equipped with a thermal insulation layer of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Fastening is carried out through special secret holes, and virtually seamless joining is ensured by a perfect locking system. Fiber cement panels that do not have insulation are installed in the same way. More details about the installation are described in the video:

Note. Both types of cladding can be used in houses installed on a pile foundation.

From the above we can draw the following conclusions:

1. In most cases, the choice of material depends on the size of the budget allocated for construction. The exception is pile foundations, where it is impossible to use the entire range of facing products.
2. Even if you have the means, it is not advisable to finish the base with marble, granite and other types of expensive flagstone. There are substitutes - panels and clinker tiles that are not inferior in appearance and service life, which are cheaper and do not load the foundation.
3. The use of decorative bricks is justified when the width of the foundation strip is designed for masonry. In other cases, it is easier and cheaper to sheathe the basement wall with any imitation brick.

Of the cheap options for the plinth, panels and siding made from non-combustible materials are most suitable. The experience of modern construction shows that facades of buildings burn out due to incorrectly chosen finishing of the basement, which ignites from a cigarette butt thrown nearby.

• Text updated: 02/08/2017

The plinth is the protruding part of the foundation above the ground surface. This part usually protrudes by 0.5-1.2 meters, but with significant differences in the terrain, the protrusion of the foundation can reach 2 meters. In such cases, a basement or a full basement is installed in the basement.

Despite its massiveness and apparent strength, the base takes on significant aggressive influences, including excess and constant moisture, significant temperature changes, wind influences and dust.

These factors have a particularly unfavorable effect in the spring and autumn, when there is a daily, repeated temperature difference from negative to positive.

The situation is aggravated by wind exposure and the presence of moisture: rain, melting snow, moisture from the ground. This means that the material of the base part is subject to greater wear and tear than the structure of the walls or the thickness of the foundation in the ground.

Why do you need a blind area and ebb tides?

The technology of plinth cladding allows the use of a wide range of materials. The big advantage is that the material of the base part may differ from the material of the walls.

The main elements when organizing cladding are: blind area and ebbs along the edge of the foundation. The wall of the building can rest entirely on the base of the foundation (one plane), it can hang (protrude) slightly from it, or vice versa: the base of the foundation has a protruding base.

In the first and third cases, it is necessary to make low tides. They can be located at the point of contact between the base of the wall and the base of the foundation, as well as at the point of contact between the foundation and the blind area.

The blind area is designed to drain rain and melt from the base of the foundation. It is constructed along the perimeter of the foundation, with a width equal to the overhanging part of the cornice. Typically, the width of the blind area fluctuates around 0.8-1.5 meters.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is worth carrying out the preparatory stage. It is important to clean the entire surface of the base from dust and dirt, clear out all the cracks, cracks, and remove weak or falling off elements.

Fill all holes, chips and cracks with plaster mortar. After that, you can proceed to the next part of the finishing.

Cladding options

You can level the plane of the base (if necessary) with a high-quality plaster compound. Cement plaster (cement/sand in a ratio of 1:3) is better suited. For plastering, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh with a section of 50*50 mm or 100*100 mm, a wire thickness of 5 mm.

Secure the mesh using anchors or self-tapping screws with dowels. After applying the first layer of plaster composition, 10-50 mm thick, you need to wait for it to harden and begin the final leveling.

A layer of plaster is applied to the surface and distributed evenly. A fiberglass mesh (section 10*10 mm) is placed on top of it. Another layer of plaster is applied and the surface is leveled. After this, you can cover the base with any stone or tile material, gluing the tiles directly to the prepared part.

After leveling, you can apply coating waterproofing and insulate the wall with polymer materials (foam plastic, expanded polystyrene - produced by TechnoNIKOL or Penoplex, for example).

For coating waterproofing, bitumen and primers can be used. The recommended insulation thickness is 100 mm. The insulation boards are fastened together using non-expanding foam.

A frame can be built on top of the insulation and faced with tile or sheet materials (corrugated sheets, siding, plastic panels for cladding with imitation: brick and stone masonry, timber, etc.).

The frame is mainly erected from a galvanized metal profile or a small-section metal profile pipe (for example, 15 * 30 mm, wall thickness 1.5 - 2 mm).

If cladding with stone, brick or tile is planned, then the insulation is plastered using fiberglass mesh and only then the finishing begins.

Do not use tiles for cladding - this is the worst option for a base. The glaze in the top layer of the tile cracks due to temperature changes (especially in autumn and spring), the ceramic absorbs moisture and, with thermal expansion from negative temperatures, the tile splits.

In conclusion: the best option

The most favorable material for cladding the basement of a house is stone masonry (rubble), clinker brick masonry, or the use of basement siding (with the preliminary construction of a frame for it).

These materials have high wear resistance, crack resistance, do not fade under the influence of sunlight and are not afraid of moisture and temperature changes.

Various photographs of the plinth cladding will help you decide not only on the choice of material, but also on the design solution for a particular case.

A less preferable option is tiling. When choosing tiles, it is better to opt for clinker or porcelain stoneware.

These materials have high strength, density and low coefficients of thermal expansion, which guarantees long service life and minimizes the likelihood of cracks.

Photo of the base cladding