Brick stoves for residential buildings. DIY brick stoves drawings. Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick stove with your own hands, tips on how not to make mistakes when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a small house and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

1. Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
2. Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
3. Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution in the old fashioned way from river sand with a grain size of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of ​​the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• knitting wire;
• building level;
• metal strips, corners;
• containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about a fairly simple way to create a stove-fireplace for heating a two-story house; the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the required size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Larger stoves require increased skill and additional materials, but the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove, even made by your own hands, can create. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no such person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled. The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which the optimal humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that when operating a heating device you do not have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:

• a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a firebox that simultaneously serves as a firebox and combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

• fast surface heating;
• possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which occurs if used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood-burning stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows them to increase efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

   

   The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

1. A house intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then a better option than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device equipped with a hob. The ideal option is fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. A stove in a country house with water or another type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so the best shape for the smoke channel would be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material required, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
3. Angle, plumb line and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scriber.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Joining.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Crushed stone.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

• from the brick chimney to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof there must be at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the stove is being built in a finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle zone, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent laitance from leaking through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. A reinforcing mesh is installed at a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Deciding on the type of heating device, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason you are not satisfied with them, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove ordering diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:

1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden strip.

   

   Installation of the combustion door

7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. The vertical walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks placed on edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the external walls with basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before covering the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this purpose, both mineral insulation and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Oven installation features

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as large a surface area as possible. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use a hob and a water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is considered to be hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen leave virtually no soot. By the way, experienced stove makers recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), naphthalene, etc. It is unlikely that a good effect can be achieved from this, but it will benefit nearby buildings and your own health. cause significant damage.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find the material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners can fold the unit. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will reward you not only with cozy warmth and comfort, but also with safe operation over many years of operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Brick stoves are very diverse. Without them it is difficult to imagine a traditional village house or a Russian bathhouse. But they are also used in modern cottages. In addition, such products can be erected in a summer kitchen, garage, or greenhouse. What types of brick kilns are there, how they differ – we’ll look at them in more detail in this article.

How are the different types different?

The variety of brick products for heating is very large. They can run on wood, coal or other fuels. Act as a heating device only, or can also be used for cooking.

Products can be folded into a variety of shapes: round, square or complex architectural designs. In terms of size, products range from very small models to large-scale multifunctional structures.

Various stove options mainly differ in the design of the chimneys:

• Models with horizontal smoke channels.
• Products with vertical channel design.
• Counterflow chimneys.
• Bell systems.
• Combined options.

Stoves can be used only for heating, or have additional functions:

• Hobs make it possible to cook food while the stove is on. But this design requires a smaller fuel compartment. In addition, the heat capacity of this model is much lower - a lot of heat is lost through the surface of the stove, the stove cools down faster.
• The presence of an oven compartment makes the design more heat-intensive. Hot gases can only heat this compartment, or pass directly through it. In the latter case, you can use the oven only after all the wood has burned out.
• Water pipes can be built into the stove. This design allows for heating throughout the entire house.

You can combine different types of stoves, combine them with fireplaces, or pair them with a stove bench or heating panel. There are often two fuel compartments, each serving a specific purpose.

Tunnel stove options

Tunnel brick ovens can be made with vertical or horizontal smoke channels.

Horizontal smoke channels

Hot gases in this type of stove give off their heat along the way to the chimney. It is necessary to provide a cleaning door on each channel, since soot and ash settle on the horizontal surface in large quantities.

To increase the heat transfer of gases, you can also make special heat pockets. By increasing the internal area of ​​the channel, the speed of movement of hot air through them is reduced. Consequently, the stove becomes more heat-intensive.

This chimney system is not particularly popular.

Vertical smoke channels

A design with this arrangement of channels prevents the free movement of gases inside the chimney. This often leads to overheating of the first channel. In addition, in this case it is necessary to build a higher chimney than with a horizontal scheme.

But this option has serious advantages: due to the large height of the structure, it is less susceptible to air blowing. This way the stove becomes more heat-intensive.

The main difference between counterflow designs and models with vertical channels is that the hole where the gases fall has a wider cross-section. They move at a lower speed, managing to transfer more heat to the brick walls.

Combined smoke exhaust systems

Combinations of different systems are often used. This makes it possible to use all the advantages of each design and get rid of its disadvantages for individual design. There are a lot of options for this combination.

Not all designs are suitable for heating stoves. Some of them are used to construct simple fireplaces.

Bell system

Bell-type brick furnaces are based on the principle of free movement of gases under the influence of gravity. Inside the structure there is a kind of cap, where incoming gases rise upward and transfer thermal energy to the brickwork. As they cool down, they gradually descend and exit into the chimney.

This type of stove has many advantages over tunnel options:

• Even after the fuel has finished burning in the stove, there remains enough hot air under the hood, which gives off heat for a long time.
• In this design there is no need for a high chimney.
• Heat is not blown away in strong winds.
• You can build a product of any shape and size.
• This design is suitable for stoves operating on various types of fuel.
• The efficiency of such stoves is much higher than that of other gas outlet systems.
• These models are more economical in terms of fuel consumption.
• This design produces a small amount of soot, so it does not require frequent cleaning.

Several caps can be made. Thus, the heat transfer of gases will be significantly higher. There are several types of such furnaces, but they all work on the same principle. A two-bell brick stove is a very efficient heater.

Dutch oven

The Dutch brick oven is the simplest brick oven. The great advantage of this design is that it takes up little space.

Very small models have a size of 0.5 x 0.5 m. And although quite a lot of more efficient heating products have now appeared, the Dutch have not lost their popularity.

The advantages of such a stove:

• The large surface area of ​​the structure heats up quickly and cools down slowly, which allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for a long time.
• The small size of this product does not require a lot of bricks. Therefore, the price of this model is quite low.
• Such a stove does not require a powerful base, since its weight is much less than that of conventional models.
• Ease of operation, maintenance and repair.
• You can build a product that will heat even a building of several floors. Two-story brick Dutch ovens can be made with your own hands.

Round brick oven - "Dutch" - device diagram

This model is applicable both for permanent use and for houses with periodic residence. It is easy to melt even after a long period of inactivity. The main disadvantage of the “Dutch” is its demandingness regarding fuel quality. Often these products are made in a round shape.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick kilns got their name due to their fairly widespread use in Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by the similarity of the climate and requirements for heating products. They belong to the bell type; the room is heated by heat transfer from the massive body of the stove.

The advantages of this type include:

• The ease of the device of this design;
• Light weight;
• The cost of such a model is quite budget-friendly;
• It has good heat transfer, traction and high efficiency;
• Due to the presence of a large firebox, it heats up quickly;
• A correctly folded structure is very aesthetically pleasing.

Typically, such products are installed in the center of the room.

Long burning stoves

A long-burning brick stove has its own design features and operating principle. It allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for quite a long time. Moreover, there is no need to add fuel.

The design of such a stove requires the presence of:

• The fuel chamber is large - it is necessary to load a lot of firewood for a long time.
• Large ash compartment.
• Tightly closing combustion chamber door.
• Adjustable chimney damper.

You can build long-burning brick stoves with your own hands if you understand the principle of their operation:

• First of all, it is necessary to heat the combustion chamber to the desired temperature. At the same time, the chimney warms up and the combustion process normalizes. To do this, 4-5 kg ​​of wood is burned in rapid mode.
• To warm up the room and obtain the required amount of coal, the same amount of fuel is burned within 1-1.5 hours in normal mode.
• The final stage is to fully load the firebox with wood. It closes tightly, blocking the chimney for minimal oxygen access. The fuel will slowly smolder for 10-12 hours to maintain the required temperature in the house.

Important! If the air access is very large, then long-term combustion will not work. Also, open fire should not be allowed in the firebox.

Pyrolysis structures

A very interesting type of long-burning furnace, which has an almost waste-free operating principle, is pyrolysis models. To obtain thermal energy, they use not only traditional types of fuel - firewood, fuel briquettes, coal, but also gas that is formed during combustion. This type of stove operates using a gas generator system.

How to make a pyrolysis oven from brick? It is best to take ready-made design diagrams and drawings as a basis. Making your own calculations is quite difficult.

Coal options

Despite the widespread use of various types of solid fuel boilers, many owners of private houses prefer to install brick stoves that run on coal.

And there are explanations for this:

• When coal is burned in the combustion chamber, the temperature can rise to 1000 °C. Metal products burn out and break down over time. Refractory bricks for the stove will last much longer.
• Brickwork withstands temperature changes better.
• The stove accumulates heat well and releases it long after the coal has died out.
• To heat the room, a water heating system is not required.

Since the combustion temperature of coal is higher than that of wood, it is more profitable to use such products for heating houses.

Even the simplest brick stove, if built correctly, can not only effectively heat a house. It will also create a special microclimate in the room, which has a beneficial effect on human health.

The choice of models is very diverse. Everyone will be able to choose a product according to their individual requirements and taking into account the specific parameters of their home. More information on this topic can be found in the video in this article: “Pyrolysis brick oven.”

Country houses are increasingly equipped with small stoves of various models. A stove in the interior by its very presence makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn it provides a comfortable temperature in the rooms, which is doubly pleasant when it is raining outside or a damp, cold wind is blowing.

The modern market offers a huge selection of compact stoves for country houses, designed to operate on various types of fuel:

• Gas;
• Electrical;
• Models burning coal, pellets or wood.

Wood-burning stoves are in particular demand. Tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, the breathtaking smell of real wood, and the special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and in reputable country cottages.

This article will focus specifically on wood-burning stoves.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heating device will operate on, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves are usually divided according to the following indicators:

• Purpose:
  • Heating systems, their only task is to heat the building;
  • Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special design elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
  • Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit or for preparing hot water. Varieties of such structures are sauna stoves;
  • The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruit, a hot water box, an oven, a summer chimney and a samovar connection point.
• Material of manufacture:
  • Metal, with thin and thick walls;
  • Cast iron;
  • Brick;
• installation location:
  • classic options, designed for installation near a wall;
  • corner;
  • island. The design of such stoves allows them to be placed in the center of the room;
• burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
  • short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one stack of firewood;
  • long-term (up to 12 hours), which is achieved through a system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the and .

Cast iron stoves

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. Used as a backup heat source that can be used in emergency situations. Unlike thin-walled steel stoves, cast iron stoves, having quickly warmed up, retain heat for a long time.

Products in this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are available with a built-in additional air supply system, which allows you to burn pyrolysis gases.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip your dacha with water heating. Their power is enough to heat large one- and two-story country houses. Provided that the CO is filled with non-freezing coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer house is the most durable, reliable and high-status option. But such stoves are quite expensive. The rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel or cast iron models. But this is many times compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the stove models is used as a country stove:

• Dutch
• Swede
• Kuznetsov furnaces.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose quite compact options; stoves of a similar design are available for independent laying (if you strictly follow the procedures), and have an acceptable cost (even when ordering the work from a professional stove maker).

Products of the mentioned types allow you to choose the optimal model that:

• will provide the optimal temperature in the country house with minimal wood consumption;
• will warm up evenly over the entire height;
• maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises of the cottage for a long time;
• have a maximum heating of the outer walls of no more than 95°C;
• the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
• its calculated durability (when using appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
• The presence of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. This is dangerous to human health (carbon monoxide enters the room);
• visually attractive appearance.

What you need for work

If you decide to install a brick stove in your dacha yourself, you should start by choosing its type. Then the required order is selected (on the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design from an experienced stove maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

Having the order in hand, you can go shopping for materials (and the missing tools). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick stoves. The only difference is the amount of materials required.

To work you will definitely need:

• brick, but not any brick, but the one indicated in the order.

This material is divided into:

• by size:
  • 250*120*65 - normal;
  • 250*120*80 - thickened;
  • 288*138*138 - modular;
• By strength (from grade 75 to grade 300);
• By variety:
  • Only grade 1 and grade 2 bricks are suitable for masonry. The body of the furnace and the chimney are made from it;
• Fireproof (another name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying a firebox.

• Red clay (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is divided into:
  • Oily (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
  • Average (≤ 15%);
  • Skinny (about 30%);
• Sand (preferably quarry sand);
• Chamotte (preferably). This material is added instead of sand to clay when making mortar for laying the firebox;
• Water (preferably rain or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
• Slaked lime. This material will be required during installation, as well as the head of the chimney, which rises above the roof;
• Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For a country stove, grade 400 and above will be sufficient.

Additional materials

• Steel profiles (if they are provided for in the order);
• Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
• Annealed steel wire;
• Asbestos cord;
• Waterproofing (roofing felt);
• Construction felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
• Fireproof mastics (Russian “Garant” or “Monolit”), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial capabilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while simultaneously increasing its quality). Purchase factory-prepared dry masonry mixtures. For example, from the Scanterm line, Finnish production (or analogues).

In addition to basic and additional building materials, you will need basic stove appliances (according to the order):

• Fire door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fiery dance);
• Blower door;
• Views;
• Valves;
• Rotary dampers;
• Wind vane.

Tool

For ease of use, you will need the following tools:

• Stovemaker's hammer;
• Pick;
• Construction trowel (another name, trowel);
• Jointing for masonry joints (preferably);
• Knife-scrape;
• Scoop shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
• Measuring tool:
  • Roulette;
  • folding meter;
  • plumb line;
  • square;
  • levels: construction, water (if any, laser);
• falcons;
• grater and grater;
• grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
• extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Carrying out masonry

If earlier the laying of a stove was carried out exclusively according to existing procedures, today the Internet provides the opportunity to lay out a simple stove, guided by step-by-step photos with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since correct reading of orders requires primary knowledge of furnace business and symbols.

We offer you a combined version (orders + photos), which tells about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and cook food.

Foundation arrangement

It is from this stage that work begins if the stove has significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg for this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making a foundation.

In the case where the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend screeding in place of the future one.

After that:

• We waterproof the masonry site by laying a sheet of waterproofing material (roofing felt);
• on top of it we form a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
• under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (item 1 of the order given above);
• In the second and third rows we have an air vent door. We wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using wire;
• put the 2nd and 3rd row;
• 4th is made with fireclay bricks;
• A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion, when forming a seat, a four-sided gap of 10 mm must be provided;
• The fifth row is laid “on edge”. We form a stand inside the chimney for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight extension beyond the plane of the back wall of the furnace, a “blowout brick” is placed “dry” (without using masonry mortar);
• There will be a firebox door in rows 6-8. We also wrap it with asbestos cord around the installation perimeter and connect the fastening wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
• We place the 6th row “in the spoon” along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th “on the edge”. We grout the internal walls of the chimney with a damp cloth (remove excess mortar);
• To ensure bandaging of masonry seams, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with a ¾ brick (blanks of the required length are made with a grinder). The back wall in this row is placed on the edge;
• In the ninth row, the firebox door is blocked from above. A “smoke tooth” (beveled brick) is placed above the firebox to center the fire under the burner.
• The 10th row, in order to hold the door open, is placed with the brick offset towards the rear wall. Before starting masonry, you should lay a wet asbestos cord, which will act as a sealant along the line of contact between the hob and the brick;
• Starting from the 11th row, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step shift to the rear wall). To ensure that this does not lead to a displacement of the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made of a mounted (metal) pipe or made attached;
• 12 row. This is the place where the valve is installed, which is pre-sealed with an asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
• Then a ¼ chimney pipe is placed, to which a metal pipe is joined;
• The knockout brick is removed and the construction debris that has accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
  
• The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal overlay. then the baseboard is nailed.
• The stove is whitewashed, after which the outer surface is covered with heat-resistant varnish (stove varnish). The joints between the brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is advisable to paint all stove appliances with fire-resistant black paint.
• A test fire is carried out (small wood chips, paper). After this, the structure is aged for 14-15 days to complete natural drying.

Below we present another selection of photographs, which shows that a brick oven can not only be laid “from scratch”, but also be completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, the pipe and foundation).

The stove, which had been standing at the dacha for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair or complete replacement of the stove, after checking its actual condition, a decision was made to replace it, preserving (in order to save money and time for masonry) the old foundation and chimney.

To carry out these works, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network) needed:

• Kiln bricks of the “Vitebsk” brand – 450 pcs;
• Fireclay bricks for the firebox – 40 pieces;
• Sheet asbestos – 1 sheet;
• Cement M400 – 1 bag;
• Fireclay clay – 3 bags;
• Fireproof black paint, designed for use at temperatures up to 600°C – 1 can;
• Fireproof varnish (colorless) – 2 bottles;
• Door with glass for the firebox – 1 piece;
• Blower door (with matching pattern to match the main one) – 1 piece;
• Medium size grate – 1 piece;

Views and valves were used from an old furnace.

Now let's look.

1. This is what the stove looked like before the renovation. Cracks in the slab, cracks around it and brick crumbling in the firebox were the basis for alteration.
   
2. The pipe is in excellent condition. And, with the consent of the master stove maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no stove underneath was resolved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut into its walls, into which a corner was inserted. To prevent the latter from diverging, it was fixed with wire. And two boards were placed under it (this is the second floor of the country house).
3. Then they began to dismantle the oven. At the same time, they tried to preserve the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the top two rows were retained on the pipe. This eliminated the need to go through the floor and ceiling covering again.
   
4. Dismantling continues. It reached the oven. Since it is not needed for the new oven, we remove it.
   
5. We reached the lower chimneys
   
6. Everything has been removed down to the foundation
   
7. And this is a “look through the pipe”. The sky is visible. This means traction is guaranteed.
   
8. The stove maker turned out to be a professional. Therefore, instead of opening the seams, I suggested chamfering them. It turned out great.
   
   
9. Laying the first brick of a new furnace
   
10. The bottom row is ready. Used bricks are laid inside.
    
11. This is what masonry done by a professional looks like
    
12. A lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
    Its location guarantees bottom-level heating of the air in the room.
13. Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. On the right, bottom view.
    
14. The turn came to the firebox door.
    
15. View in all its glory (see photo 13)
    
16. Installing a hob on 1 burner (trying on).
    
17. The craftsman formed a protruding brick canopy over the firebox. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire wall of the stove, but will be held in place by this element.
    
18. The cooking surface is placed on mastic. There is a functional utensil rack nearby, which is very convenient.
    
19. And this is the “belly of the stove,” one of the elbows of the internal chimney.
    
20. And these are all 3 knees in the “group portrait”
    
21. Firebox
    
22. Almost full height. The visor and the valve are clearly visible (from the side).
23. A dryer will be placed above the hob.
24. And here you can see how the issue of access to warm air has been resolved. Everything ingenious is simple (bottom view)
    
25. Shelf on top. Behind it are vertical sections of the chimney.
    
26. The stove reached its ceiling, which was also equipped with a visor for beauty.
    
27. We begin laying the pipe in the free space, trying to combine it with the existing part.
    
28. This is the distance left between the new and old parts of the pipe. The brick will definitely not fit. And it is necessary.
    
29. This did not stop the professional. The stove maker simply used two jacks and lifted the remaining part of the pipe to the desired height.
    
    
30. We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay the masonry mortar on top of it.
    
31. We lower the upper part and it sits tightly on the solution.
    
32. We coat the surface of the stove with varnish and the metal elements. black paint. The work is completed.
33. Control firebox.
    
    

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The good old brick oven does not lose its position under the pressure of modern, highly efficient competitors. Disputes - why? – too many to count, but actually there is only one reason: the brick stove breathes. Stone, by the way, no.

What does it mean to breathe? When heated, the microporous body of the stove releases moisture vapor into the air of the heated room, and when it cools, it absorbs it. As a result, the brick oven supports the so-called. the dew point in the room is within physiologically optimal limits. When they say that a brick oven is “healthier” than any other, then, known or unknown, this is precisely this factor.

In addition to the beneficial effect on health, the breathing of the stove gives another important consequence: when performing a medical and thermal calculation of a house, the lower temperature limits in it can be reduced to 18 degrees for comfort and to 20 degrees for medicine, because relative air humidity during the heating season will be close to optimal. In wooden and brick buildings it can provide super savings: at 16-17 degrees, over 80% of physically healthy people do not feel discomfort in them, and the bed linen remains dry. And in a stone or concrete house heated by radiators, even at 18 degrees it can be chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperatures should be taken at 20 and 22 degrees, respectively, and when heating with IR emitters, electric or gas catalytic, another degree higher; IR devices dry out the air a lot. Therefore, a brick heating stove with an efficiency (heat transfer coefficient) of 50% can be more economical in heating costs than an ultra-modern metal-composite stove with an efficiency of 70%, because the heat loss of a house strongly, according to a power law, depends on the difference in internal and external temperatures (temperature gradient).

Note: a little breathing can be achieved by enclosing it with a convection screen (see figure) 30-40 mm thick made of plywood, seasoned hardwood or several layers of plasterboard. At the same time, uniform heating of the room along the height will be ensured. But the breathing of such a stove will not be deep and even. Here modern technologies do not yet reach the brick.

Stove breathing in combination with physiology gives a second-order economic consequence: the heating season can start later and end earlier. In the central zone of the Russian Federation, the difference over the year can reach a week, and in the Black Earth Region and further south – 2-3. For which you will not need to purchase fuel. And if you consider that a good brick stove works on everything that burns, including waste and cheap alternative fuel (pellets, etc.), then the savings increase even more.

Note: On a global scale, brick stoves still fit poorly into the environment - the extraction and production of materials for them causes more damage to the environment than the savings from stove heating on losses in heat mains and power lines. But in this case, demand no longer creates, but rather dictates supply. Leading stove companies are quietly but hard working to improve technologies for the production of stove materials and create brick stoves that can be transported ready-made and installed immediately at the site of use.

There are no fewer people wanting to build a stove with their own hands. Professional stove makers also do not break the price: their work is in demand, competition is quite high, and, in addition, most of them are enthusiasts of their work. But in order to take on the stove yourself or competently consider the proposed project, you need to know the basic principles of stove construction, which is what this article is about.

Is it only in the house?

A brick stove on the farm is useful not only for heating and cooking. A stationary one can bring very good income, as can a barbecue for an individual entrepreneur working in the field of catering.

In everyday life, what is most important is the high heat capacity of brick, which ensures long-term heat transfer after heating. Since the firebox is empty, you can sleep peacefully without fear of fumes. For industrial furnaces, the low thermal conductivity of the brick comes to the fore, making it possible to create a high concentration of heat in the working area. In this case, the breathing of the stove becomes a harmful factor, and it is most often stopped by placing the stove in a gas-tight case.

Small businessmen specializing in handicraft industrial production should think about these types of industrial furnaces, which are quite possible to make yourself:

• Cupola furnace – at a utility yard, up to 50 kg of scrap metal can be melted in it at a time.
• – for hardening of metal products with simultaneous cementing.
• Kiln for ceramics, etc.

Note: brick stoves are not recommended for heating greenhouses, greenhouses, poultry houses, and barnyards. A stove breathing miasma will spoil the air and will soon deteriorate itself.

The fact is that factory samples of small industrial furnaces are designed for transportation in parts or assembled. Therefore, their prices are prohibitively high. But by installing a stove on site, you can get a better one without taking out an unaffordable loan, and start a profitable business. For now, we will dwell in more detail on: they were the first to appear in everyday life and the principles embedded in them are valid for others.

Note: Bath stoves require separate analysis. Here the brick also comes out on top, but for slightly different reasons. A special section will be devoted further to sauna stoves.

Stove in the house

It is not necessary to build a house from a stove; you can choose a stove that matches the house. But first you need to carry out a thermal engineering calculation of the building, taking into account the factors described above and determine the place for the stove in the house. You also need to know that insulating the house from the outside increases the efficiency of stove heating much more than heating with registers. And, in turn, covering a house with siding makes insulation much easier and cheaper. That is, the optimal design of a house stove should initially be comprehensive.

As for the layout, different options are possible here, see fig. The house on the left is suitable, for example, for a bachelor hermit, but not an ascetic or a childless family of convinced sybarites; a warm bed in the bedroom would be very useful here. The stove is a heating and cooking stove. The Russian one does not fit into such a house, but the Swedish one (see below) will fit perfectly. An option is budget housing for a small family, then the bedroom turns into a children’s room or an area in the penthouse is allocated for children.

In the middle the house is already larger and more impressive. A fireplace stove with a finished cast iron firebox opens into the living room, see below; firebox door made of heat-resistant glass. Here, too, different options are possible. If, for example, the kitchen and bathroom are swapped, the heating panel (see below for details) is rotated 90 degrees, and the veranda from the hallway is moved to the right side, then by slightly reducing the living room, you can fence off 1-2 more bedrooms. At the same time, there will be a corridor leading to the common areas.

The plan on the right is more suitable for a summer house. In the summer, opening the window in the kitchen-hallway will not be too hot for cooking. A fireplace stove in the corner - for evening gatherings by the fire; In case of bad weather, it will also be possible to cook shish kebab or barbecue on a rasper.

Already at the stage of planning a house with a stove, you need to consider the following:

1. For a tall stove with its own chimney, or for a stove with 500 or more bricks, a separate foundation is needed that has no mechanical connection with the foundation of the building, even if they are designed and built together;
2. A low and wide hob and a heating panel for it on the floor, made in accordance with the requirements of SNiP (i.e., capable of holding a load of at least 250 kg/sq. m) can be installed without a foundation, making only thermal insulation; more about her later. It is advisable to reinforce the flooring under the shield with additional joists;
3. The chimney cut (also see below) should not come into contact with the ceiling beams; it is very desirable that the distances from the cut to the floor beams closest to it are approximately the same.
4. The chimney must protrude at least 500 mm above the roof ridge and be at least 1500 mm away from it.

Clause 1 allows exceptions. If the stove is made of 1000 bricks or less, and the foundation of the house is sectional strip, then the foundation of the stove can be built at the intersection or T-shaped connection of the strips under the internal walls. In this case, the distance from the furnace foundation to the nearest other foundation strips of the building must be at least 1.2 m.

Note: because Since a small Russian stove requires 1,500 bricks, all Russian stoves must be built on separate foundations. But here too there is an exception - a small Russian can be built on a guardrail made of wooden beams 150x150 mm, piercing the floor to the rubble in the foundation of the building or the ground.

Furnace structure

The furnace itself is sometimes called the furnace body. The body of the stove is installed on the hydro- and thermal insulation of the stove foundation or floor and ends with a chimney exiting through the attic and roof. All this together is called the structure of the furnace. The structure of a brick heating stove is shown in Fig. on right:

1. foundation;
2. hydrothermal insulation;
3. trenches are a kind of legs, they are made for lower heating and saving bricks;
4. blower;
5. the entrance of the air vent - an air channel that ensures uniform heating of the room along the height;
6. blower door;
7. grate;
8. the firebox door - worked - with the flow of fuel supply - rush;
9. firebox of the firebox, or just a firebox, or just a firebox;
10. firebox vault;
11. the mouth of the firebox, or its hailo. Sometimes only the vertical mouth of the firebox with a narrowing (nozzle) is called hailo, and in a Russian stove, hailo is the nozzle at the beginning of the chimney;
12. cleaning door or just cleaning;
13. overflow (pass) – bend in the channel of the air convector of the choke;
14. air convector vent;
15. valve for switching the furnace stroke (see below, shown conditionally);
16. gas (smoke) convector, or convection oven system;
17. view - a valve that is used to close the chimney after firing, so that the stove does not get cold due to natural or wind draft;
18. the outlet of the vent into the room with its door. In summer, the air vent door is closed and air convection in it stops;
19. chimney smoke duct;
20. furnace roof;
21. internal chimney trim;
22. ceiling;
23. fire cutting;
24. fluff, or otter, is an expansion of the mouth of a chimney.

Note: The side of the stove with the work (in the Russian stove the work is sometimes called the pharynx) is called the forehead of the stove, and its side walls are called mirrors or cheeks.

Let's give some explanations. The foundation is solid reinforced concrete; for a furnace on trenches - a tape-butted one. Removal of the foundation is at least 50 mm. Insulation - 2-3 layers of roofing felt, on top of them - 4-6 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard, then a sheet of roofing iron, and on it a bedding for the masonry - a sheet of felt or basalt cardboard, soaked in a very liquid masonry mortar for the stove, about it see . Further. The litter is placed wet on the iron and allowed to dry before laying begins.

The first rows of masonry of the furnace body (oblique shading in the figure) are made of ordinary ceramic red brick (not facing!) on a cement-sand mortar; this is the furnace part of the furnace. Next comes the furnace, or fire part (checkered shading), it is laid from ceramic stove bricks in combination with fireclay, more about bricks later, on a clay-sand mortar.

In front of the blower door and the roof, a sheet of roofing iron is laid on the floor on an asbestos or basalt cardboard cushion of 4-6 mm, its root edge is walled up in the nearest upper seam of the masonry. The spread of the sheet forward is at least 300 mm, and to the sides from the forehead - at least 150 mm. The free edges of the sheet are folded and nailed to the floor.

Clay masonry mortar does not set, but dries out. With irregular heating in the cold season, it gradually becomes limp from moisture. In this case, the part of the stove body, the temperature in which does not rise above 200-250 degrees, is laid out from stove bricks, but with cement-sand mortar, which is also much cheaper than clay, oblique hatching with gray filling in Fig. The mortar used for this part of the masonry is Portland cement from M400 and mountain sand without inclusions. Replacement with decorative analogues is unacceptable!

The lower transitions from channel to channel of the gas convector (crossflows) should be 30-50% greater in height than the upper ones (passes). This will ensure that soot accumulates at the bottom of the convector (on its bottom), from where it can be easily removed. For the same purpose, the edges of the passes are rounded.

Starting from 80 degrees in the chimney, the masonry is again made of simple bricks using ordinary cement-sand mortar. The internal cutting of the chimney is necessary; it holds a fireproof cutting (at least 50 mm of asbestos or basalt cardboard in a metal casing) and, most importantly, in the event of a fire, the soot will absorb the heat for a time sufficient to take the necessary measures.

The role of the fluff (otter) is aerodynamic. It cuts the wind flow, forcing its upper part to jump over the mouth of the chimney, so the draft is not so dependent on the wind. The height of the fluff is at least 2 rows of bricks, the offset at the mouth cut is half a brick. Neglect of fluff is a very common cause of smoking stoves.

Choosing a furnace layout

The main convection schemes for household brick ovens are presented in Fig. On the left is a channel stove with a series gas convector, the simplest in design. Similar ones are built using a serial channel circuit. In addition to simplicity, the advantage of the channel scheme is that it is very flexible in design. The convector with the firebox are mechanically connected only by a heater, so a channel stove can be designed for any ready-made room, see next. rice.

However, the efficiency of purely channel furnaces rarely exceeds 40%, and it is very difficult to build a water heater into them: a powerful internal heat flow circulates in the body of the furnace, and any violation of it leads to a drop in efficiency and increased soot deposition.

In the center in Fig. with diagrams the most advanced heating and cooking stove made of brick -, its efficiency reaches 60%. It is a chamber oven (the role of an air chamber flowing around a flow of hot gases is played by oven 1) and a duct convector stretched from floor to ceiling behind it. In the chamber part of the Swedish stove, gases heat the cooking surface in the cooking niche 2, and part of the heat from the convector enters the dryer 3. Advantages of the Swedish stove:

• The convector and the oven do not have energy feedback from the combustion part, so a U- or W-shaped heat exchanger of the hot water system with a storage tank can be built into the oven on the side, and the tank itself can be placed either in the drying niche or on the roof of the oven.
• The combustion of flue gases occurs in the chamber part of the furnace. They go into the convector with a temperature below 800 degrees, so it can be made from ordinary bricks with cement-sand mortar.
• A tall narrow convector provides uniform heating of the room across the height.
• Some of the flue gases from the chamber outlet can be transferred, for example, to a stove bench, and then returned to the convector without deteriorating the furnace parameters.
• The dimensions of the convector can be varied, moved and rotated relative to the chamber part, so the Swede also fits well into a finished house and can heat up to 3 rooms, see next. rice. (after channel furnaces).
• If you open the oven door, a powerful stream of thermal radiation will come out of it, which will allow people who have come from hard work in the cold to quickly warm up and dry themselves.

The main disadvantage of the Swedish stove is the high requirements for the quality of materials and work for the chamber part of the stove. In addition, it definitely needs a foundation; without it, a tall and narrow structure, parts of which are loaded differently due to thermal stresses, will turn out to be fragile and unstable. Only an experienced stove maker can make a Swedish-type stove.

Finally, on the right in Fig. with diagrams - bell furnace. Its efficiency can exceed 70%, because it is self-regulating: flue gases will not go into the chimney until they burn out under the hood and give up their heat to the body of the stove. In addition, a bell-type stove has the property of a gas view: if you forget to close the standard one, the hot gases under the bell will not allow heavy cold air from the heat to flow through, and the stove will not get cold. This guarantees against wastage due to a view being closed at the wrong time.

However, a bell furnace looks simple only in the diagram, but in execution it is very complex due to the high loads in the structure. Then, a bell-type stove is exclusively heating; it is impossible to build a hob into it. Heat extraction for a water heater is possible only in two-bell stoves, which are even more complex, so bell stoves are not very common in everyday life. The exception is, but such talented stove makers are rarely born.

Plate and shield

The development of the Swedish idea gave rise to a very promising design: a conventional hob with a separate heating panel-convector, see fig. All that was required for this was to abandon the cooking and drying niches; this made it possible to separate the chamber and channel parts mechanically, i.e. build them separately; perhaps even in turns.

What do we get in return? Less load on the floor. In most cases, the stove can be built directly on a wooden floor, putting the same insulation on it as on the foundation for a stove. And under the shield, just a damping cushion made of basalt cardboard is enough. The problem of stability of a tall narrow shield remains, but it is solved by creating its mechanical connection with the wall, even if it is a half-brick partition, see fig. left.

Further, the shield can be moved and rotated relative to the stove, then the stove can heat the kitchen and bathroom, and the shield can heat up to 4 rooms. To do this, you need to insert a flexible link made of heat-resistant corrugation with good thermal insulation into the horizontal section of the chimney between them to avoid soot deposition. In general, at the cost of abandoning niches that are almost unnecessary in our time, a fundamentally new and very practical design was obtained.

Seasonal furnace runs

In the summer, when it’s already hot, there’s no need to heat the room. But putting tiny amounts of fuel into the firebox will also not work: the limits for adjusting the power of the fuel supply of all furnaces are small. The heat from a small batch will fly out into the chimney, and the remainder will not be enough for scrambled eggs. But not everyone has the opportunity to acquire a summer kitchen with a stove.

For such a case, stove designs with switching from summer to winter have been invented. The easiest way to switch the stroke is in a parallel circuit duct furnace, two left positions. in Fig. below. However, the maximum efficiency of a channel-parallel furnace can be achieved only with a power of more than 20 kW. The square-cube law applies here, and in a stove that is too small, the heat will “whistle” into the pipe without having time to heat the convector. In addition, all two-pass furnaces are potentially dangerous: if you accidentally close both valves, a fume will occur. Finally, during the summer, the roof and part of the cheeks of the stove still get hot.

Meanwhile, there is a two-pass scheme, especially suitable for heating panels: a scheme with two chimneys, summer and winter, two positions. on the right in Fig. It only requires one valve, so it is completely safe - there will be draft in any position of the switch. The position of the valve out of season will be immediately felt by the heat transfer, and you can switch the stroke during combustion. And smoothly regulate the heating by partially closing the damper.

During the summer run, gases cannot squeeze through into the winter run: the aerodynamic resistance of the convector labyrinth is much greater than that of a straight pipe. And the complexity of constructing chimneys is not at all double: the gases enter the winter chimney cooled below 80 degrees, so the winter chimney can be lightweight and simplified, for example. asbestos-cement. The only small disadvantage of a system with two chimneys is that each pair of convector channels requires cleaning.

Special ovens

Before moving on to a more detailed analysis of conventional stoves, we will focus on several special, highly sought-after designs.

Barbecue oven

The real one is an ancient open hearth, see fig. It is built either outdoors under a canopy or indoors under a smoke eliminator. Masonry without any wisdom: half a brick with a spoon bandage. 3-4 rows need to be laid out with pokes to form supports for the roasting pan and grates. However, for more details about the masonry, see below.

The foundation for an outdoor barbecue is the simplest, a slab of ready-made concrete monoliths or stone blocks on a sand-crushed stone bed. An indoor barbecue is built directly on the floor using the combined insulation described above.

The barbecue has one subtlety: the side of the brazier, in the right hearth it heats the cooking from the sides. Therefore, it is advisable to lay out the top 2-3 rows from fireclay bricks; it absorbs heat very well and slowly releases it. In order for the top of the brazier to heat up faster, you need to take faceted shaped bricks, as shown in Fig. below. Through the wedge-shaped depressions between them, heat will pass faster into the masonry. You can make shaped bricks for a barbecue yourself, but then you will have to work with a grinder.

Bathhouse

How to build a furnace in the usual way; The main secret here is the design of the heater. A closed heater through which flue gases pass (on the left in the figure) quickly warms up and produces the most useful dry steam. But you can’t “pour” water or kvass onto it; you’ll have to light the stove again. In addition, the slightest mistake - incorrectly selected stones, poor fuel, violation of the firebox - leads to the deposition of unburned organic matter in the heater, and dry steam can turn out to be toxic and carcinogenic.

An open heater (second from the left in the figure) is safe, but takes a long time to heat up. To steam with “supercharge”, the stove must be heated all the time, so its creation must go into the dressing room: fumes are especially dangerous at high air temperatures. If you add too much pressure, the heater can completely dry out, and the whole bathhouse will go down the drain.

The third stove on the left with a closed side heater is more perfect: the bunker with stones is washed by hot gases from all sides except the front one, so the heater warms up faster and you can put more pressure into it. But the most perfect sauna stove is the bell-type stove on the far right. The heater is located on the roof of the bell, the temperature under which is very high, there is the main source of heat generation, and this heat has nowhere to go except into the stones. Therefore, the heater warms up in a matter of minutes and you can add pressure almost without restrictions. There is no need to heat the stove, the “hood” itself will select a mode depending on the heat consumption, as long as there is fuel in the firebox.

This stove has 3 disadvantages. Firstly, the overall complexity and high cost, like bell-type furnaces in general. Secondly, a cap made of ordinary steel quickly burns out, but one made of heat-resistant steel is expensive. Finally, you can only add heat to the heater of this stove from the built-in shower, and you can’t fill it with kvass.

Flow furnaces

Flow-through stoves do not have convectors, but they only have a superficial resemblance to a fire in a chimney or cave. Continuous furnaces can be very effective. The most popular types are English fireplace and Russian stove.

Fireplace

The structure diagram is shown in Fig. To obtain maximum efficiency comparable to that of a Dutch oven, the fireplace insert should taper back on all sides, on the right in Fig.

The main proportions of the fireplace are as follows:

• The portal area is 2% of the room area.
• The height of the portal is from 2/3 to 3/4 of its width.
• The area of ​​the combustion opening is 1.5-1.8% of the area of ​​the room.
• The firebox bottom area is 70% of the portal area.
• The depth of the firebox is 1/2-2/3 of the height of the firebox opening.
• The back wall of the firebox is broken at 1/3 of its height.
• The angle of inclination of the “mirror” of the rear wall is 20-22 degrees from the vertical.
• The angle of convergence of the side walls is 45-60 degrees, i.e. 22.5-30 degrees for each.
• If the fireplace has a solid hearth, then its rise back is 4-7 degrees.
• The height of the podium above the floor is about 50 cm.
• The cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney is 7-13% of the firebox area. The smaller value applies to a round chimney, the larger one to a rectangular chimney with sides 1:2. For a square chimney – 10%

Russian stove

(diagram in Fig.) with regular intensive heating it gives an efficiency of up to 80%, has amazing decorative qualities, allows you to prepare traditional Russian dishes that cannot be prepared in any other way, and is always equipped with a stove bench. But the design of the Russian stove is very conservative; only a stove maker with extensive experience working with Russian stoves can make changes to it without risking damage to the stove.

From the point of view of construction mechanics, the Russian stove also stands apart. It is not a solid module that works as one (hollow column, wall), but an almost complete analogue of a building: a coherent structure, the parts of which interact through the corners. Therefore, the corners of the Russian stove must be laid out according to all the rules. Reconciliation in order is not enough; you also need to constantly check it plumb. The following figure shows the key points of laying a Russian stove.

Preliminary calculation of the furnace

Before choosing a stove design, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation for the room. Usually it is based on the heat output of the furnace in kcal/hour. As the stove cools, heat transfer decreases, but heat loss in the room also decreases, because it also cools down. The task of the calculation is to maintain the temperature in the room until the next fire.

Such a calculation is theoretically complex, and using ready-made coefficients and simplified formulas requires a lot of experience. But for houses with good external insulation, quite reliable results are obtained by the method of calculation proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov based on the average thermal power per unit surface of the furnace (TMEP). For a normal firebox it can be taken at 0.5 kW/sq. m, and for heating in severe frost - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m for 2 weeks.

Using TMEP, the rough calculation of the furnace becomes very simple. Let's say we have a stove with a plan of 1.5 x 1.5 m and a height of 2.5 m. The area of ​​its walls is 3.75 x 4 = 15 square meters. m, plus 2.25 sq. m ceiling. Total 17.5 sq. m. This stove will be able to produce from 8.75 to 13.3 kW of heat. Taking into account the features of stove heating, this is enough for a house of 80-100 square meters. m.

Firebox

To calculate the firebox, you must first determine the maximum fuel volume. It is determined by the required thermal power, the calorific value of the fuel, its specific gravity and the expected efficiency of the furnace. The calculation is carried out for all types of fuel for which the stove is intended, and the highest value is selected. The volume of the fuel chamber of the furnace (combustion chamber) is taken to be 2-3 times greater than the maximum volume of fuel mass, based on re-melting. In general, the maximum fuel load into the combustion chamber is 2/3 of its volume.

A complete calculation of the firebox is not the job of amateurs and not even just any heating engineer. Let's take at least such a “trifle” as a grate. It will let in too much air - the fuel will burn faster than the body of the stove will accept its heat, and the remainder will fly out into the chimney. If there is not enough air, the fuel will not burn completely, and the unreleased heat will again end up in the chimney with smoke. What about soot and ash clogging the grates? And all this needs to be linked with other, no less significant components of the furnace, and for different types of fuel.

Fortunately, there are now many ready-made stove inserts on sale for different thermal powers, for different fuels, with solid or transparent, for fireplace stoves, creations. And a finished firebox will cost less than any homemade one. When choosing, you just need to pay attention to the following:

1. The dimensions of the firebox and its fastening elements (pins, mustaches) must be consistent with the dimensions of the brick. Kiln bricks are produced in several standard sizes (see below), and the same firebox can be sold in several modifications for different bricks.
2. For a long-term use stove, you need to use a cast iron firebox. Welded from sheet metal - for ovens used occasionally.
3. You also need to pay attention to the depth of the narrowing of the combustion chamber towards the grates - an ash pit, an ash well or simply an ash pan.

Let us clarify the last point. If the stove will be heated primarily with high-calorie, low-ash fuel in large pieces (coal, peat briquettes), then the ash pan needs to be taken deeper, up to 1/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. In a shallow ash pan, such fuel will burn out too quickly. If the stove uses low-calorie wood fuel, including pellets, then the depth of the ash pan should be no more than 1/5 of the height of the combustion chamber, otherwise the bottom of the fuel mass will quickly become clogged with ash, the air flow will be reduced, and the fuel will not burn out.

As you can see, the depth of the ash pan is large. Therefore, it is better to overpay a little and take a multi-fuel firebox. In such systems, complete combustion of all types of fuel listed in the certificate is ensured by special design measures.

Note: raw firewood can be completely burned in a deep ash pit, and coal can be burned on a flat firebox floor by choosing the correct amount of fuel. But this requires the experience of a stoker and intermediate heating with screwing, which is no good at night.

Chimney

Calculating a chimney is a separate topic, perhaps more complex than calculating the entire stove. Even on a computer, you have to restart the CAD 2-3 times, manually adjusting the source data, before everything comes together properly. But for normal conditions (rectangular cross-section, vertical stroke without kinks, height of the chimney mouth above the grate is 4-12 m), you can immediately give ready-made values ​​of the transverse dimensions for furnaces of different power:

• Up to 3.50 kW – 140×140 mm.
• From 3.50 to 5.20 kW – 140×200 mm.
• 5.20-7.20 kW – 140×270 mm.
• 7.20-10.5 kW – 200x200 mm.
• 10.5-14 kW – 200Х270 mm.

These values ​​are the minimum. They are designed to avoid “whistle” when cold air flows countercurrently into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. “Whistling” is fraught not only with heat loss, but also with a lot of other serious troubles.

If the stove in the chimney chosen “offhand” smokes even occasionally, it needs to be increased by only 0.25-0.5 m. Once upon a time, for this, a leaky bucket was placed on the pipe, now you can add a piece of asbestos-cement pipe with a cross-section no less than the chimney.

But the best way is not to be lazy and lay another 2-4 rows of bricks, not forgetting to make a new fluff. Have you ever seen a pipe with two otters? This means that the initially short chimney was increased to normal as a result of the heating.

Note: It is often necessary to extend the pipe when the aerodynamics of the area change. Let's say the forest has grown around or high-rise buildings have been built.

Furnace materials and appliances

Brick

Sources often confuse it with fireproof fireclay. The only thing they have in common is their dimensions: if for a single building brick they are 250x125x65 mm, then for kiln bricks they are 230x114x40 mm (standard) or, sometimes, 230x114x65 mm. In general, the stove brick is high-quality red M150. You can use it entirely to build a Dutch oven and a Russian stove. In terms of heat resistance (up to 800 degrees), it would also be suitable for a fireplace, but it absorbs little heat and cools quickly, so it is only suitable for a fireplace in a summer cottage, where the fire is only admired.

Note: The dimensions of stove bricks were formed historically in ancient times, so that anyone could distinguish them from building bricks. Firing bricks then cost a lot of work and expense, there was no concrete, and deposits of good clay were rare. Therefore, the wandering stove makers of that time often did nothing, using weakly fired bricks made from unimportant clay.

Fireclay bricks are used for laying the combustion parts of furnaces with a fairly intense thermal regime: Swedish, bathhouse, bell-type. Its main advantage for household stoves is not heat resistance; 1600 degrees does not exist in home stoves. What is more important here is the high thermal conductivity of fireclay combined with high heat capacity: fireclay masonry is an excellent heat accumulator.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to build a furnace entirely from fireclay: it will first become unacceptably hot and then give off heat too quickly by radiation. On the outside, the fireclay masonry should be covered on all sides with ceramic, at least half a brick.

Judging the quality of fireclay bricks only by the depth of its color is not entirely correct, because... Fireclay clay from different deposits is very different in appearance. Almost black brick may be bad, but light yellow brick may be excellent. The main sign of quality is a fine-grained structure without many visible pores and inclusions (top left in the figure; next to it is suspicious). The next stage of testing is tapping with a light hammer. A good brick produces a ringing or clear, abrupt sound, while a bad brick produces a dull, drawn-out sound. Finally, if knocking doesn’t really clear anything up, they check for cleavage, or, in modern terms, conduct a crash test: a brick is broken or dropped from a height onto a hard floor. A good brick has good cleavage; it splits into large pieces with a granular fracture. A bad one produces more dust and crumbs than large fragments.

The sides of fireclay bricks are called the same as building bricks, this is also shown in Fig. Like construction fireclay, fireclay is used full-length, in 3/4 lengths (in three-quarter lengths), in halves and quarters. How they are indicated on masonry diagrams is shown in Fig. bottom left.

Clinker brick, or simply clinker (on the right in the figure), is well suited for laying the internal critical parts of household stoves. This is the same ceramic brick, fired at a high temperature. Its appearance is unprepossessing, but its strength and heat resistance are increased. Clinker costs a little more than regular red brick, but is significantly cheaper than fireclay.

Note: Sand-lime brick is absolutely unsuitable for any parts of furnaces. It does not adhere to clay mortar, but due to alternating thermal loads it draws moisture into itself like a sponge.

Sand

Sand in mortar for laying stoves requires special consideration. For a stove designed for more than 10 years of regular use without repair, you need mountain sand without inclusions. In other types there is too much organic matter, due to which the masonry seams crumble and crack over time.

Pure mountain sand is roads. But the main thing is that now there is an ideal replacement on sale: clay sand for ceramic masonry and fireclay sand for fireclay. Don’t be surprised by the phrase “clay sand”; it, like fireclay, is ground waste of the corresponding type of brick. Brick sand most often turns out to be cheaper than good mountain sand, and mortar masonry with it is of exceptional quality.

Masonry mortars

They are used for laying brick kilns. There are many known recipes, we will present the simplest and highest quality ones. For fireclay you need fireclay marl or white kaolin. For ceramic bricks - any refractory ground clay; Gray kaolin, blue or gray Cambrian are best. In both cases, for 100 pcs. bricks will need 40 kg of clay.

When purchasing, they immediately check the clay for the smell: any clearly noticeable smell, pleasant or unpleasant, indicates an admixture of organic matter; such clay is not suitable for laying a stove. Next, you need to determine the required proportion of sand in the solution, because Clay from different deposits of the same quality has different fat content - a combination of adhesive ability and viscosity. Take 0.5-1 kg of clay powder for a sample, fill it with water in a container to the top of the backfill and let it sour for a day and gain moisture. Fireclay marl completely sours in 1-2 hours, overexposure is not a problem.

The soured clay, adding a little water, is kneaded until the consistency of very thick dough or plasticine. Then the batch is divided into 5 parts and sand is added to each: 10%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% by volume. All samples are thoroughly mixed again until completely homogeneous and dried for 3-4 hours.

Now the samples are rolled into sausages with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm and a length of at least 30 cm. Each sausage is wrapped around any round object with a diameter of about 5 cm and the result is observed:

1. The solution, based on a sample that has settled absolutely without cracks, is suitable for any furnace, including the fuel part.
2. The dried crust has torn, forming a network of small cracks - the solution is also suitable for all ovens, incl. for the Russian furnace and the Dutch furnace.
3. The cracks went 1-2 mm deep - the solution is suitable for parts of the stove heated to no higher than 300 degrees, for barbecues and country fireplaces.
4. Deep cracks, breaks, breaks - there is too much sand, the solution is not suitable.

The main point of testing the proportion of sand is to reduce the cost of construction: brick sand is much cheaper than high-quality clay. Accordingly, the more of it goes into the solution, the cheaper it will be.

Note: This test is only suitable for mortar on brick sand. For solutions on natural sand, other tests are used.

The working solution is prepared according to the same principle as the sample, but in the required volume:

• The clay is soaked for a day; fireclay marl – hour.
• Knead the mixture until it forms a dough.
• Rub through a 3x3 mm sieve.
• Sand is added according to the test results.
• Add water little by little and knead until the cream becomes thick.
• Check the fat content of the solution in the usual way, by wetting the trowel.
• If necessary, add clay or sand (very little!), knead and begin laying.

Note: on average, 3-4 buckets of ready-made solution come out of a clay sales package.

Furnace appliances

Stove devices (doors, valves) are attached to the body of the stove either with mustaches located at the seams of the masonry (on the left in the figure), or with a skirt made of heat-resistant steel, wrapped before installation with a 5-mm asbestos cord, on the right there. The first ones, of course, are cheaper, but they are not suitable for fireboxes, ovens and fire dampers: during the life of the stove they have to be changed several times, and it is bad to disturb the masonry by tearing out the mustaches from the seams. And, of course, the installation dimensions of the devices must be consistent with the dimensions of the bricks, taking into account the thickness of the seam.

Laying and dressing

Brickwork can be tongue and groove, depending on which side of the brick faces outward. The bricks are laid on the bed. “Bed” masonry, when the brick is placed on a stick or spoon, is extremely fragile and is prohibited by SNiP, but in exceptional cases it is used for external finishing of unloaded structures.

The masonry is carried out with bandaging of the seams, i.e. the seams of individual bricks must have a spread (offset) in the masonry row (in one or two directions horizontally) and between rows (vertically). In untied masonry, any microcrack that cannot be avoided will inevitably creep further, destroying the structure.

There are dozens of methods for bandaging seams in construction alone, but in the stove business they also have to be changed in order to lay out complex chimney ducts. However, you can check a finished stove project or one developed independently, guided by fairly simple principles:

1. The masonry begins and ends with bonded rows.
2. Any brick must rest on at least 2 others.
3. Bricks of adjacent courses must overlap by at least 1/4 in length or width.
4. All vertical seams must be filled with mortar, otherwise the masonry will delaminate into vertical layers.
5. The vertical seams of the butt and spoon rows should not coincide.
6. Protruding thresholds, areas under beams and liners must be butted.
7. The hewn parts of the bricks should not protrude outward. The exception is bricks processed with a grinder with a diamond wheel.

The normal seam width when laying a stove is 3 mm, the minimum is 2 mm. Widening up to 5 mm is permissible; on flood rows and in the vault - up to 13 mm. In places where fireclay and ceramic masonry meet and around liners made of any other material (stove appliances, concrete beams, pins under the hob, etc.), the masonry is carried out with a seam of maximum width - 5 mm. The grate bars are placed in a nest on the firebox floor to dry, so that they can be removed for cleaning.

All rows of masonry must be tied vertically. In the vast internal spaces of the rows, incomplete bandaging in the row is allowed (see figure), or masonry using the backfill method, i.e. filling them with bricks without dressing. It is convenient to do the dressing between similar rows (for example, sub-flooding ones) using the mirror reflection method, similar to how fence posts are laid out, on the right in Fig.

Laying the convector and shield

When laying convector partitions, it is necessary to leave bypass windows at the top (passes) and bottom (crossflows). There are no problems with the passes - it’s enough not to add 2-3 bricks, and that’s it. But you can’t put the overflow like that, you’ll end up with a hanging wall. The partitions above the crossflows are laid out as shown in Fig. The supports from the butts are alternated every 3-5 rows. The windows of the tray row near the butts are covered with brick halves.

The walls of the furnace convector are laid out in its order, and the walls of the heating shield are laid out with spoons with a simple spoon dressing. Her diagrams for walls of half a brick, a brick and one and a half bricks are shown in the following. rice. The latter uses mirror image dressing.

Vault masonry

In household stoves, semi-circular (in the form of part of a cylinder) and flat vaults are used, see fig. below. In the best Russian stoves, very experienced stove makers sometimes, by special order, make the furnace vault oval, four-centered, and in Pompeian stoves the vault is domed, but both require high skill and experience. In a mechanically weakly loaded semi-circular stove vault, the outer stones of the wings - the heels - and the central stone - the castle - do not differ from the others.

The semicircular vault is laid out in the following order:

• Prepare a drawing of the vault on a scale of 1:1.
• Thrust bearings are placed along it - bricks on which the wings of the vault will rest.
• Place the thrust bearings on the mortar and interrupt the laying of the furnace until the mortar is completely dry.
• According to the patterns - circles - the wings of the arch are laid out, observing the dressing between the rows.
• Apply the solution generously into the groove of the lock and insert the keystones into it one by one, hammering it in with a wooden sledgehammer or log. A sign of correctly executed masonry will be the uniform squeezing of the mortar out of the seams on the wings.
• They wait for the mortar in the vault to dry completely, remove the circles, and continue laying the stove.

The vertical seams of the lock should not coincide with the seams on the wings. To do this, already at the drawing stage, the wings need to be made in a mirror image, and not by simply shifting one to the other side. The maximum angle of divergence of bricks in the vault is 17 degrees. With standard size bricks, an internal seam of 2 mm and an external seam of 13 mm, this angle will be maintained.

The flat vault is laid out on a flat pallet instead of a circle of shaped bricks, ready-made, purchased or made independently. The masonry technology is the same, but keep in mind that a flat vault does not tolerate the slightest asymmetry! If the whole thing is moved a little to the side, it will begin to collapse on its own. Therefore, even experienced craftsmen lay out a flat vault from shaped bricks according to a proprietary template pallet.

How many bricks are needed?

How many bricks are needed for a stove? After all, the amount of mortar and, therefore, the main construction costs are tied to it.

Once upon a time, the number of bricks was calculated using empirical coefficients for typical projects. The method gave up to 15% of the fight (and theft), which is unacceptable at current prices.

Nowadays furnaces are calculated using computer-aided design (CAD) systems. The program immediately displays how many full-size, longitudinal and shaped bricks are needed. But, since they don’t build a blast furnace or kiln for a factory at home, and mastering CAD requires a lot of work, time and special knowledge, the homemaker has no choice but to simply count the bricks according to the order of the kiln. This will take an hour and a half for an average home stove, but if you count carefully, you can reduce the battle to 2-3%

Note: A correctly completed furnace design must be accompanied by a specification indicating the number of bricks, other materials and a complete list of devices indicating their type and variety.

Tool

Tools for kiln work are generally the same as for other masonry work (see figure below): a hammer-pick (butt) with a wedge-shaped spine for brick pegs, a trowel (trowel), cutting tools for convex and concave seams, mortar shovel. But order is definitely added. In this case, this is not a masonry diagram laid out along its rows, but a tool for checking its correctness.

The fact is that the masonry of the stove with seams of uneven thickness will soon crack from temperature deformations. On the other hand, masonry on clay takes a long time to dry, at least a week, and even dried seams can be soaked and a failed structure can be rebuilt.

The ordering tool (on the right in the figure) is a flat wooden strip 50x50 mm, on the sides of which the row numbers for different types of bricks are marked, taking into account the thickness of the seam. The stove needs at least 4 rows, and one for each additional corner, internal or external. Use the order like this:

1. The flood rows are laid out in formwork.
2. The orders are secured in the corners with 2 staples with pointed ends each. The staples are pressed into the masonry seams.
3. A mooring cord is moored to the rows, along which the laying is carried out. For a Russian stove, the corners are additionally aligned with plumb lines.
4. As you lay out the top bracket, shaking it, is removed from the seam and inserted into the next one.
5. The holes from the bracket in the previous seam are sealed with masonry mortar.

Working principles

In all furnaces, without exception, the mechanical connections are relatively weak and the loads are high. Therefore, “brick on brick - drive, grandma, mogorych!” it doesn’t go unambiguously here. A stove that has not yet reached the ceiling will most likely collapse, as described by Makarenko in his “Pedagogical Poem.” When laying a stove, the following rules must be observed:

• Bricks are laid only one at a time. For beginners, it is advisable to lay out the next row on a dry surface, level it, and only then place the stones on the mortar.
• Before laying, each brick is mopped (not to be confused with scraping!): thoroughly cleaned of crumbs and dust with a hair brush.
• Dip the ceramic brick into clean water for a second or two and shake it off thoroughly, then it will immediately stick to the mortar.
• Fireclay bricks are not “bathed” under any circumstances!
• It is difficult to apply a layer of mortar exactly 3 mm with a trowel, so experienced craftsmen apply the mortar by hand. But this also requires a certain skill.
• The brick is put into place in one motion, you cannot move or knock!
• If the stone does not immediately lie properly, it is removed, the mortar is cleaned from the brick and its bed and placed again.
• The removed solution is thrown away; it is no longer suitable for use!

Design examples

As an example, consider a couple of constructions with which you can begin the transition from theory to practice. In Fig. - diagram and order of the simplest brick oven: a hob that does not require a foundation. It will take no more than 130 ordinary red bricks, taking into account the battle at the hands of a novice master. A U- or W-shaped hot water heat exchanger with a storage tank made of a metal water pipe can be built into the descent from the gas channel pass to the chimney outlet (marked in red in the figure).

Despite its simplicity and small size, the heat output of this stove is about 650 kcal/hour, which allows flue gases to pass through a heating panel that heats 20-25 square meters. m of living space. A standard size 1 hob is laid loosely on 3-4 mm steel tendrils 2, embedded in the seam between the 11th and 12th rows of masonry. Its thickness is 6 mm.

On the trail. rice. – a small apartment with a single-burner hob. It is also made of simple red brick M150. Taking into account amateur fighting, you will need 270-280 pieces.

The cast-iron stove lies freely on the mustache, as in the previous stove. You can remove it and insert a barbecue barbecue into its slot, or place skewers with kebabs on the opening of the stove. With an open (or transparent) firebox door, the stove turns into a fireplace.

It is no longer possible to place this stove on the floor; it is too high and narrow. But on soils with sufficient bearing capacity (loam, sandy loam, forest soil, etc. “dacha” soils), the foundation for it can be a solid slab on a sand-crushed stone bed, as for a barbecue fireplace.

Video: example of laying a simple brick oven

The most important principle

Finally, let’s give the most important principle for the construction of brick household stoves: the stove and the house are closely interconnected, they can be friends and enemies. It is very simple to reconcile the stove with the house: any of them will show all their advantages only in a good-quality, well-insulated house.

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