At what angle should the bath be installed? Independent installation and connection of a bathtub is a job for a skilled craftsman. Video - Installing a steel bathtub

The main detail of any bathroom is a high-quality font. Installing a bathtub will require certain knowledge. Bathroom installation should be selected based on the types of construction. Bathtub installation will also depend on the type of product. What nuances need to be taken into account, methods of carrying out work, installation methods, basic rules for carrying out work, we will consider in more detail.

Premises requirements

You can install the bath yourself. The bathtub, which will be installed, must be made based on the type of substance from which it is made and the place where it is to be installed. Let’s take a closer look at how to install a bathtub with your own hands.

The installation location must meet certain requirements that must be taken into account. The surface where the product is planned to be installed must meet the following requirements:

• The surface must be cleaned of remnants of the old coating;
• Perform alignment;
• Provide high quality waterproofing. It should form a “font”. This method will help secure the perimeter if a leak occurs;
• Prepare a layer of screed. The floor level in the bathroom should be at least five centimeters lower than the rest of the surface in the house;
• Depending on the type of font and installation method, take care of the decorative coating. If the bath is made of cast iron, it must be of high strength. If installation is planned using a blank screen, you can limit yourself to painting and not lay tiles;
• Depending on the type of font, you need to prepare the surface of the walls. Cast iron and acrylic products are installed after final work. Steel before applying the decorative layer.

In some cases, tiling is done after installing the font. It is at the site where the bathtub is installed that the masonry should be as reliable as possible. A significant mass of the structure, together with water and people, must stand securely and not damage the surface of the material.

Installing a bathtub in a bathroom can be done in several ways. The fastening of the bathtub to the floor and walls must be sufficiently reliable to ensure a stable position of the structure. The process involves not only the installation of the product itself, but also the ability to connect a communications system.

The installation option is chosen based on the product model, dimensions, weight, and the substance from which it is made. The most popular are:

• With the help of legs. Included in the set, can be purchased additionally. Depending on the type of product, there may be different installation options. Fastened with wedges, bolts, glued to the base;
• With the help of the podium. Some type of structures can be mounted on a podium. It is made of brick, wood, and gas blocks. The method is more often used for steel and acrylic structures;
• Using a frame. This type of installation allows you to fix the product securely, distribute the mass evenly, and protect it from bends, irregularities, and deformation.

Only competent installation work will achieve stability, safety, and long service life. The method can reduce noise levels and retain heat for as long as possible.

It is advisable to secure especially heavy, unstable models using frames and podiums. They will additionally ensure rigid fastening of the device, stability, and protection against surface distortion and enamel damage. Wooden and metal structures are used for frames. Podiums are most often made of brick and gas blocks. They are decorated with tiles, tiles, mosaics. It is important to leave free access to communications.

Lightweight acrylic products must be installed using a frame. The legs in them perform a purely decorative function. You can also make a screen for them from hylocathon.

Steel structures are often additionally fixed around the perimeter, between walls, using metal corners. Due to their light weight, they are quite unstable and can turn over when filled. If the device is designed for use by people with significant mass, choose the type of installation on brick supports, using a brick transfer in front.

Bath installation sequence

Regardless of how the bathtub is installed, it is important to avoid distortions and tilts. Whatever method is used, the process must be carried out in a certain sequence, in compliance with the requirements, conditions, and safety precautions.

First of all, the device is brought in, the legs are installed, if they are the ones that will hold the mass, and they are connected to the water supply and drain. Some designs may be lightweight, others may have significant weight. It will be impossible to install such products alone.

There is a sequence of work:

• Taking measurements;
• Bringing the product into the room;
• Siphon installation. It must be carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions;
• Fastening the legs, if they are the ones to be installed on;
• Height and level adjustment. Cast iron products are made taking into account the angle for drainage. In steel, it is provided at the installation stage;
• Installation of the device at the place of use. It is advisable to do this as close to the walls as possible. In some cases, this is done using grooves in the walls, corners;
• Check the level for correctness. There is a type of legs that can be raised or lowered. Others need to be adjusted with additional pads. This could be tiles or metal plates.

The optimal height of the bathtub from the floor is sixty-five centimeters. It is necessary to leave free space for the siphon at the level of fifteen centimeters.

Checking and sealing the joint between the bathtub and the wall

Before completing installation, you must pay attention to the correct operation of the device. Paper is placed on the floor. The device is filled with water. Check the quality of the overflow. Then the water goes away. If the paper remains dry and the outer side of the siphon also, then the quality of the joints is normal.

It is best to attach the siphon by pre-treating all joints with sealant. It is not recommended to use corrugation.

The second indicator is the reliability of the installation. The product should not dangle; it should be fixed firmly.

With an ideal installation, there should be no gaps between the bathtub and the wall. If they do form, care must be taken to eliminate them. This problem is not only of an aesthetic nature. If water gets on the floor, dampness, mold, mildew, and possibly a short circuit will form.

There are quite a few ways to disguise such defects. They are selected based on the size of the gap, the material with which the walls are finished, and from which the bathtub is made.

Small defects can be repaired with tile grout, sealant, or cement. Larger ones are masked using polyurethane foam. There are special tapes, borders made of plastic, tiles, and rubber tapes that help cope with the aesthetic part of the problem. Even if the gap is sealed with decor, it must be restored to a decent aesthetic appearance.

Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Some won't last long at all. Others are quite expensive and provide such a strong grip that dismantling the product, if necessary, will cause certain difficulties.

Reliability and correct installation of the bathroom are of particular importance. Violation of technology will lead to danger during hygiene procedures, rapid wear of the product, and damage to the surface. For each type of product, installation conditions are strictly individual.

1. The bath is an important part of any apartment. Every apartment resident spends a significant portion of their room in the bathroom.

However, sooner or later, we are faced with the need to replace the bathroom with a new one. And here that knowledge will come to the rescue,
which we have outlined below. First of all, you need to dismantle the old bathtub. As a rule, this is associated with certain difficulties, since
the old coupling bolts are most likely rusty and it is simply impossible to turn them out with a wrench - the wrench erases the bolt head stops, but the bolt
and does not scroll - in this case it will have to be cut off with a grinder. Also, most likely we will encounter difficulties associated with dismantling the drain and
overflow grate. Previously, they were made of brass - a soft material; when dismantled, such a grille could simply break, and then you would have to
carry out dismantling using non-standard methods. One of them is this: using a hacksaw blade, we cut out the lattice segments, positioning the blade perpendicularly
inner ring.

Cut out the drain hole using a hacksaw or grinder Break the drain grate using a hammer and chisel

We make cuts from the inside and bend the segments inside the funnel. We do the same with the counterpart of the ring under the bathtub.
Now you can easily pull out the drain grate through the hole in the bathroom. We dismantle the overflow grille in the same way if it cannot be removed in the usual way.
When the grates are removed, we dismantle the drain and overflow pipes. If the drain pipe is embedded in the sewer with cement, carefully break the cement, then remove the pipe.
The hole in the sewer pipe must be closed with a plug (this can be a piece of wood adjusted to the diameter of the pipe, or simply a gag made from pieces of rags).

Remove the siphon and overflow from under the bathtub Free the walls of the bathtub

Now is the time to remove the bathtub and free up the room. To do this, break the tiles that secure the edges of the bathtub and remove it from the base.
The bathtub is carried out vertically through the doorway. When the bathroom space is freed up, we begin installing a new bathtub.

2. In this article we consider DIY bathroom installation, without electrical components. If you plan to use baths with electrical components,
We strongly recommend using the services of professionals.
Let's look at the main types of bathtubs in order to choose the most suitable one. Traditionally, bathtubs are made of cast iron, steel and acrylic.

Free standing cast iron clawfoot bathtub

Cast iron bath It keeps warm for a long time, it is not expensive, however, such a bath is very heavy. A cast iron bathtub weighs on average about 100 kg, which makes it very
the non-trivial task of its transportation and installation.
Acrylic bathtub - made of modern material - acrylic. The bathtub is made of acrylic plastic and is reinforced to avoid sagging. She is relatively
lightweight, but more expensive than cast iron.
Steel bath- just as easy, and at the same time - cheap. Its main drawback is that the water in it cools quickly.

Circular bathtub in the bathroom interior

In addition, there are bathtubs made of many other materials - stone, copper and even wood.
Also, bathtubs differ from each other in shape. The most common is a rectangular bathtub. However, there are also round side baths -
which bring additional aesthetics to the bathroom, however, when choosing this type of bathroom, you need to remember that the water in it easily overflows,
therefore, there should be at least 5-10 cm between the bathtub and the walls in order to provide easy access for collecting spilled water.

Round bathtub installed in a frame in the interior of the bathroom

In addition, it is advisable to use special curtains, the edges of which descend into the bathtub on each side.
Before installing the bathtub, you should ensure that the surface on which the bathtub is mounted is perfectly flat. If necessary, apply a screed, or
special leveling solution. It makes sense to combine a bathtub replacement with a bathroom renovation. In this case, the floor is laid with tiles.
After this, it is necessary to allow the surface to dry thoroughly (at least 2-3 days) and only after that proceed to further work.
The next step is to lay the tiles on the walls. We recommend laying tiles completely over the entire wall, including in those places that will be hidden by the bathroom.
It is quite understandable to want to save money by skipping places under the bathtub that are not visible to the eye, but in this case, the next time you install a bathtub, you will have to
also change the tiles.
When installation of a steel bath, first the bathtub is installed, and then the tiles are laid.
In the bathroom, the bathtub is brought vertically; the threshold of the rooms is first laid with something soft. The bath is located 70-80 cm.

Installation of a drain-overflow system for a bathtub

from the installation site, with the drain hole towards the taps, and then the drain system is installed.
Often, the drain works on the principle of a drain-overflow system. Installation begins with the installation of a drain funnel. The funnel is installed in the drain hole
bath (before this, we recommend applying sealant to the inside of the funnel ring), put a rubber sealing ring on the back side
and a pressure (usually plastic or metal) ring.

Then the system is secured with a clamping screw - while making sure that the o-ring does not warp.

Then we screw a tee to the external thread of the funnel, so that the side outlet faces the nearest wall. When installing a tee, do not
We forget to seal it with O-rings and clamping rings.

Video: DIY bathroom installation

We install the overflow grid in a similar way, connecting it to the overflow tube, if necessary, reduce its length, cut off the upper part of the overflow
tubes. When the drainage system is ready, we install the supports (legs) of the bathtub and mount the bathtub on them. The installation technology is as follows:

the first support is installed, the bathtub is carefully laid on it, then the opposite edge of the bathtub is raised, and the second supports are placed under it.
Then we connect the drainage system to the sewer system. After this, we move the bathtub to the wall, and using a level and adjusting screws on the legs of the bathtub,
We achieve a horizontal position of the bath. Then we check the tightness of the system.
This is done in two stages: first, pour water into the bathtub and drain it; if there is no leak, fill the bathtub with water and close the plug. If in this
If there is no leak, then the bathtub is installed correctly, you can begin installing the mixer.

Installing a faucet in the bathroom

Of course you can try restore coverage using commercially available special enamels. This can be a good solution in the case of a cast iron bathtub.

But, if you need to replace your existing bathtub with a more modern one with a beautiful design and additional amenities, you will have to dismantle the old one and install a new one in its place.

We will talk about how to do this in this publication.

Removing an old bathroom

If you have not yet decided on a purchase, we recommend reading the article - Which bath to choose? If you have already made your choice and a new bathtub has already been purchased, then you can start dismantling the old one.

To do this, you need to carefully disconnect the siphon, which is located below and screwed to the outlet using a nut, and also unscrew the overflow (attached to the overflow hole on the wall).

If the pipes are old and this cannot be done manually, use adjustable wrenches.

After disconnecting the siphon from the bathtub, it should also be disconnected from the sewer outlet pipe going to the riser. To do this, just carefully disassemble the socket connection, being careful not to damage the existing rubber ring, and plug the outlet pipe with a rag so that no debris gets into it when installing the bathtub.

After this, the bathtub can be moved from its place without fear of damaging the sewer pipes.

If the bathtub is cast iron, you can break it with a sledgehammer and take out the fragments in parts. This will significantly speed up the process and will not require a large number of people to take it out of the house and into the trash.

You can watch a video on how to break a cast iron bathtub below:

As you can see, there is nothing complicated about this, the main thing is to try to carry out all the work during the daytime, so as not to disturb the neighbors in the evening, since there will be a lot of noise.

Particular care should be taken in areas where the bathtub is connected to the sewer in old houses. As a rule, in Stalin and Khrushchev buildings, the sewerage system was made of cast iron pipes, which, if handled carelessly, can crack and cause you additional trouble relaying the sewerage system. Which was often embedded in the floor.

Once the old bathtub has been removed, you can begin installing the new one.

Preparing the base

Installation begins by preparing a solid, level base.

If during the dismantling process you damaged the floor covering or the floor previously had unevenness, then you should do all the necessary work to level it so that the bathtub stands on a level floor.

To do this, make a cement screed and lay the tiles on the floor.

Only after a reliable foundation is ready can you begin to install the bathtub itself.

Installing legs on a cast iron bathtub

A cast iron bathtub is quite heavy and requires reliable support for installation. To do this, use legs that are attached to the bottom.

Previously, the legs were triangular cast iron castings, which were attached to the spacer between the bosses (protrusions) at the bottom of the bathtub and wedged with metal wedges:

The installation height in such cases was regulated by metal pads and it all did not look very neat.

Today the legs are a more complex structure. They are fastened with a threaded connection and a nut, and their height is adjusted with screws using a wrench:

These are the legs that should first be secured to the bottom of the bathtub in order to immediately place it in the place where it will stand, and only after that proceed with the installation of the body kit in the form of a siphon, overflow and other devices, if any.

Installation of siphon and overflow

Installation of the siphon and overflow is carried out after the bathtub is securely on its legs.

The siphon is a plastic structure that creates a water seal to prevent gases and unpleasant odors from the sewer network from entering the room:

The siphon is screwed on one side to the outlet in the bottom of the bath, and the overflow tube is screwed to the overflow hole on the wall.

The siphon outlet is connected to a sewer pipe that carries the wastewater to the riser.

The siphon installation diagram looks as shown in the figure below:

The numbers indicate: 1 – overflow pipe; 2 – outlet in the bottom of the bath; 3 – siphon; 4 – pipe connected to the outlet pipe; 5 – overflow hole in the wall of the bathtub; 6 – bathtub, 7 – bathtub legs.

The siphon is assembled from the parts included in the kit, after which it is installed in the drain hole and secured with a nut on the reverse side.

After this, the overflow tube is attached to the overflow in the same way.

The outlet pipe of the siphon is mounted to the sewer outlet pipe.

After the entire structure is assembled, you should take in water and make sure that no water is leaking anywhere. If you notice droplets somewhere, you should carefully, without applying much force, tighten the connections to seal the gasket.

Below you can watch a video on how to install a siphon in a bath:

Features of installing acrylic bathtubs

Let's now look at the main features of installing acrylic bathtubs.

Acrylic bathtubs appeared on our market not so long ago, but have long gained popularity due to the variety of shapes, sizes, colors, as well as their low weight, which makes it possible to do without a team of workers to move it to the installation site.

Previously, we already wrote how to choose an acrylic bathtub, if you haven’t read it yet, we recommend reading about the pros and cons of bathtubs made of this modern material.

And now a few words about their installation.

Acrylic bathtubs differ from steel and cast iron in that their body has less mechanical strength and can be easily damaged.

When a person with a lot of weight washes in such a bathtub, it plays noticeably, and over time, cracks may appear in the body.

To prevent this from happening, acrylic bathtubs are placed on a special rigid frame made from the structures that come with it.

The frame can have different designs, but in general, the frame for an acrylic bathtub looks like the one shown in the photo below:

To assemble the frame, mark the places on the bottom of the bathtub where the frame will be attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws:

After that, small holes are drilled in the designated places. The main thing is not to drill through the bottom. The depth of the holes is indicated in the bathtub passport.

After the holes are ready, the supporting metal slats are attached to the bottom using self-tapping screws.

The bathroom is everything to us. We start the day here - we wash our faces, brush our teeth, and get ourselves in order. We come here during the day to fix our makeup. And finally, what better way to wash away all the day's fatigue than a warm, relaxing bath with aromatic foam or salt? This is why so many people, despite the dynamism of life and the convenience of a shower, still opt for a bath. And the question of how to properly install a bathtub with your own hands remains one of the most frequently asked. By the way, installing a bathtub yourself will significantly save your money - this is not a cheap job.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is not so easy; it requires certain skills and experience, as well as the appropriate tools. However, if you follow all the recommendations and approach the matter responsibly, this is quite within the capabilities of any person.

Choosing a bath

When installing a DIY bathtub, it is important to understand. That its installation depends on what exactly it is made of. The shape of this design should also be taken into account. Therefore, one of the first tasks that needs to be solved is to choose the bathtub that you will install.

The shape of the bathtub and its color are also very important, but these plumbing features will most likely please only your aesthetic taste.

Dimensions and configuration are important because the bathroom should have sides that are comfortable for everyone, additional accessories you need such as seats, and other functions.

It’s one thing if a family of two lives in the house, and quite another thing if, in addition to the husband and wife, three children of different ages and a grandmother are swimming in the bathroom.

However, both the shape and color of the bathtub are secondary.

But the material from which the plumbing fixtures are made determines its service life.

Baths are:

• steel;
• cast iron;
• acrylic.

Advantages and disadvantages

Steel plumbing looks good and is quite affordable. It is lightweight, which makes it easy to install. Steel bathtubs come in different shapes and are widely available. These advantages of plumbing cannot attract.

However, the water in it cools down very quickly, which is inconvenient for those who like to lie in warm water longer.

A steel bathtub is quite easily deformed, and if you have obese people in your family, it will also bend under heavy weight. In this case, when installing a steel bathtub with your own hands, it is advisable to make additional capital supports. For example, made of brick. In addition, the water rumbles loudly as it pours into the steel bathtub. This is very annoying for some people.

Cast iron is very reliable. A bathtub made of cast iron will serve you for a long time, remaining like new, while cast iron has little heat transfer, so the water in such a bathtub does not cool down for a long time. Water does not rattle when it hits the bottom of a cast iron bathtub.

However, such a bathtub is not a budget option; installing a cast-iron bathtub with your own hands is quite difficult due to the heaviness of the material. Even just the two of you will not be able to do this; you will definitely need help. At the same time, a cast iron bathtub is also fragile and can be easily damaged if installed carelessly.

But you can even bathe an elephant in it, and there will be no deformation of the material.

Acrylic bathtubs are cute, lightweight and inexpensive. If such a bathtub becomes unusable, it can be easily replaced with a new one. The water in it cools for a long time, does not make noise when filling, and installing such an acrylic bathtub with your own hands is quite simple.

However, an acrylic bathtub is short-lived and unstable.

Preparing the bathroom

Despite the fact that you already know exactly what kind of bathtub you will purchase in the near future, you do not need to do this until you have prepared your bathroom and have carried out the preparatory work.

First you need to determine exactly where you will place the bathtub. This is purely a matter of taste - it is customary to install the bathtub close to the wall, but some people also place it in the center of the bathroom.

At the same time, if you are planning a bathroom renovation, it is better to lay tiles on the walls after you install the bathtub. It will simply be more convenient to seal all the gaps and cover up the cracks.

Of course, you will have to remove the old bathtub. If you have it made of steel or acrylic, there should not be any special problems with dismantling. But if you have a cast-iron bathtub in your apartment, removing it will not be so easy. However, everyone succeeds in dismantling an old bathtub.

It is imperative to eliminate any problems with the sewer drain. There should be no leaks, running pipes, or faucets that are difficult to hold on to the hoses.

If you give up on the drain and install a new bathtub, you will have very big problems when the water starts leaking.

At the same stage of plumbing work, it is necessary to resolve the issue of connecting communications, install a siphon, tee, pipes and other components of the cold and hot water system.

Bathtub installation process

DIY steel bath installation

The steel bathtub is easy to lift, turn, and carry into the bathroom. You can easily do this yourself without involving anyone as an assistant.

However, you can’t just pick up and install a steel bathtub. By itself, it will not stand firmly and confidently, given the weight of the structure.

The steel bathtub must be secured, and secured on three sides. And on the fourth side, experts recommend installing the same capital support that we talked about above. Such a support is made of brick, which can then be lined with finishing material. For example, tiles. In this case, the bathtub will stand quite solidly.

Manufacturers often add legs to a steel bathtub. To install a steel bathtub on legs with your own hands, they should be adjusted in height and short supports of the same size should be used.

The algorithm for installing a steel bathtub with your own hands is as follows:

• place the bathtub on the floor with the bottom up (in this case, you need to put something under the bathtub to avoid the risk of scratching it;
• try on the supports to the places where you will attach them. One of them should be mounted next to the drain hole, and the second - on the opposite edge of the bottom, on level ground;
• place the supports in the right places and press firmly;
• screw to them the tips that are included with the supports;
• turn the bathtub upside down and place it on the legs in the designated place, adjusting its position (the bathtub should be at a slight slope);
• connect the sewer and seal the joints;
• fill the gaps with special polyurethane foam;
• make a capital support from brick;
• veneer the brick with any finishing material.

If you do everything correctly, the steel bathtub will serve you for a long time, will be quite stable, and will not deform.

DIY cast iron bathtub installation

A cast iron bathtub is not as easy to install as a steel bathtub, primarily due to its weight. To bring it into an apartment or house, you will definitely need helpers. Lifting a cast iron bathtub is quite difficult even for two people.

But this same weight, which creates inconvenience for you when moving and installing a cast-iron bathtub, gives it stability. Therefore, you can install a cast iron bath directly on the legs, without any additional supports.

To properly install a cast iron bathtub with your own hands, you need to do the following:

• lay it on its side. This should be done in such a way that the bottom of the bathtub is turned towards the wall, and the drain is directed towards the sewer drain. This is done for ease of installation of the siphon;
• install the legs on the side that faces the ceiling;
• turn the bathtub onto the other side and securely fasten the legs on the other side;
• place the cast iron bathtub on legs;
• align the structure so that the bathtub stands at a slight slope towards the drain;
• move the bathtub close to the wall, trying to do this in such a way that the gap between the wall and the bathtub itself is as small as possible;
• seal this gap with polyurethane foam;
• install the drain and secure the connection.

You need to tighten the bolts on the legs of the bathtub carefully enough so as not to break the plastic base.

Sometimes cast iron bathtubs are installed on brick supports. This installation is very reliable and quite accessible to everyone.

Bricks are simply laid under the cast-iron bottom of the bathroom so that the bottom rests against the brick base. Usually they make one large brick base, since the bathtub is heavy. However, some prefer to make two major brickworks for a cast-iron bathtub.

DIY acrylic bathtub installation

The best thing about an acrylic bathtub is its light weight, even compared to a steel bathtub. Therefore, the process of installing an acrylic bathtub is quite simple, and you can handle it alone, without involving anyone as assistants.

However, because of this same advantage, you will have to make a special frame so that the acrylic bathtub is held stably in one position.

You can purchase an acrylic bathtub that already comes with a kit for installing the frame, which includes all the necessary components. Moreover, bathtubs from different manufacturers also have different mounting kits, so you should definitely clarify this issue before purchasing.

Please note that acrylic bathtubs can come in a wide variety of shapes and configurations.

On the one hand, this is very convenient, since you can not only satisfy your discerning taste, but also make the most optimal use of the bathroom space.

However, there is also a minus. It is clear that the more complex and interesting the shape of an acrylic bathtub, the more difficult its installation will be for you. This is explained simply - it is not so easy to make a frame that will exactly repeat all the interesting contours of an acrylic bathtub.

If the acrylic bathtub you purchased does not have a mounting kit, then it is not difficult to make a frame for reliable installation of the bathtub yourself.

To make such a frame you will need brick, as well as additionally timber and plywood. In this case, additional wooden materials must be treated with a special compound that protects the wood from moisture.

The frame should be installed so that it is attached to some kind of support, for example, to the wall of the bathroom. If you simply attach the side of an acrylic bathtub to the structure, the entire load will fall on the frame. And the frame can quite easily become unusable.

Vertical racks are placed at the corners of the acrylic bathtub. Exactly the same racks are installed on the sides of the bathtub at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. They should not be very high, and, as a rule, their height is chosen in accordance with the height of the bath.

Steps to install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands should be performed in the following sequence:

• first you need to make a brick base with a hole for draining water;
• secure the base of the frame made of beams;
• where the vertical posts will be located, place bars;
• install such racks;
• install an upper base for stability and place plywood on it;
• the base brickwork is covered with cement;
• install an acrylic bathtub on this frame;
• give the bath the correct position by leveling it;
• Be sure to fill the bathtub with water! This must be done so that the cement exactly repeats the shape of the bottom of the bath. The water in the bath is left until the solution dries completely, after which it can be drained;
• decorate the frame so that the brickwork is not visible.

conclusions

As you can see, installing a bathtub with your own hands, regardless of the material it is made of, is not so difficult, and with the appropriate skills even a non-specialist in plumbing installation can handle it.

The most important rules that you should strictly follow when installing a bathtub yourself are as follows:

• it is necessary to ensure good support;
• the bathtub must be given the correct slope;
• it is necessary to carefully monitor how the sewer drain is connected;
• The joints need to be sealed properly.

If you follow these rules, you will be able to install a bathtub yourself, regardless of the material from which it is made, and the bathtub will serve you and your family members for many years.

A steel bathtub is the cheapest option; if properly installed and additionally processed, its performance is in no way inferior to more expensive analogues. The main advantage of heavy cast iron bathtubs is that heat is retained for a long time. But in order to heat cast iron, you need a lot of hot water, and this is associated with additional losses of thermal energy. In addition, during water procedures, the water still cools down; heat escapes through a large area of ​​unprotected surfaces. There is a simple way to eliminate this drawback; if desired, the performance characteristics of an ordinary steel bathtub can be brought to high standards.

An important point: the correct choice simplifies installation and increases the comfort of use.

By what criteria are bathtubs classified?

Choose the size of the bath responsibly, taking into account the characteristics of the residents and the room. Poor quality enamel can be recognized by several signs.

1. Run your hand over the surface. The surface must be perfectly smooth. Roughness or “sea waves” indicate a violation of the annealing conditions. Such a coating will quickly get dirty and requires constant cleaning.
2. Inspect the coating from different angles. If the standard thickness is not observed, then in some places the shade of white changes.
3. Pay attention to the area of ​​the bottom near the drain. There are cases when the drain is in the same plane or protrudes slightly above the surface. In this bath, the water will not drain completely; a small amount will always remain near the drain. After drying, calcium is deposited in these places, and over time it acquires a yellow tint.

Practical advice. Steel bathtubs belong to the segment of inexpensive products; there is no need to buy the cheapest ones. Additional savings will ultimately bring losses; purchase products only from well-known, time-tested manufacturers with numerous customers.

steel bath

Preparing the site

The location where the bathroom is installed should already have sewer and water pipes. Check the levelness of the floor and the corners of the room. If the angle between the walls is not 90°, then this disadvantage must be taken into account when installing the bathtub.

The floor covering must be horizontal.

Of course, with the help of legs or bricks, the bathtub will be installed level, but problems may arise with water drainage during leaks. The fact is that it is difficult to detect small leaks under the bathtub, all elements are closed. If water accumulates near the wall and the leaks are insignificant, then fungus will certainly appear in this place. Getting rid of it is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. In some cases, you will have to completely dismantle the bathtub, do a set of special measures and reinstall the bathtub. Minor leaks can appear for various reasons; their absence cannot be completely guaranteed. If water flows towards the screen, then the problem is immediately visible, the causes are promptly eliminated and the negative consequences are minimal.

Installation of siphon and overflow

These elements must be installed before installing the bathtub in place. In terms of their design and connection technology, all systems are the same, the only difference is in price and material of manufacture.

Step 1. Turn the bathtub upside down. To protect the enamel from mechanical damage when tipping over, place cardboard or soft cloth on the floor. Do not do such work yourself, call an assistant. Together, the process not only speeds up significantly, but also the quality of installation improves.

Step 2. Read the assembly instructions and check that the siphon is complete. Pay attention to the gaskets, they differ in appearance and size. Do not mix up the gaskets; each must be installed in its place.

Step 3. Assemble the siphon and secure it in the drain hole. Do not use too much force to avoid damaging the seals and gaskets. To make assembly easier, it is recommended to use petroleum jelly or moisten the surfaces with soapy water.

The upper part is attached inside the bathtub, the lower part is mounted under the bathtub drain hole

Important. The drain gasket has a groove dividing it into parts of unequal thickness. The thin side should go inside the bathtub, the thick side should be on the back side. Don't change your position. Otherwise, the plastic element will protrude above the surface of the bathtub and the water will not be able to drain completely. The remaining part, after drying, forms yellow spots on the bottom; they will have to be removed frequently. All cleaning products contain compounds that have a negative effect on enamel. Even though their concentration is insignificant, with repeated use the thickness of the enamel decreases.

Step 4. Turn the bathtub on its side, install the gaskets one by one and screw on the plastic parts of the drain and overflow. It's much easier to do this together. One should hold the parts, and the second should tighten them with a mounting bolt. Do not apply too much force, the plastic may crack.

Check the connections for tightness. It is better to do this before installing the bathtub in place, this will make it easier to eliminate leaks. Everything is fine - you can install the legs.

Installation of legs

We have already mentioned that the legs can be fixed with double-sided tape or nuts. In the first option, no problems should arise. You just need to make sure that they do not interfere with the inspection of the siphon and ensure the stability of the bath.

Assembling the second version of the legs will be more difficult. It is impossible to give general recommendations; each manufacturer develops its own design. Look at the pictures, read the recommendations. It is necessary to achieve reliable fixation of all structural parts to the bathtub.

Adjust the position of the bathtub using the threads on the legs; check horizontality in two directions with a level. When you find the desired position, be sure to secure the threads of the legs with nuts. They should not wobble, otherwise the slope of the bath will change over time. In addition, gaps will appear between the wall and the bathtub. To fix the problem, you will have to make additional stops under the bottom.

And one more piece of advice. Unfortunately, there are defective bathtubs; their factory tilted bottom does not ensure complete drainage of water. To prevent such situations, practitioners advise immediately increasing the slope of the bathtub bottom towards the drain hole by a few millimeters. This will not be noticeable to the eye, but will guarantee the normal functioning of the drain.

Warming the bowl

A very significant point, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of warm water, which is important given modern prices for utilities. After insulating the bowl, the bathtub’s heat saving performance is significantly superior to all commercially available expensive analogues. In addition, it does not add weight and perfectly dampens unpleasant sounds when filling with water.

How is the bowl insulated?

Step 1. Work must be done in an overturned position. Recommended immediately after installing the siphon with overflow and legs. Buy two or three cans of polyurethane foam. The cheaper the better. The fact is that cheap foam during hardening significantly increases in volume, and this is exactly what we need. More volume means more air bubbles, less heat loss. And the low price is explained by the low compression force; this parameter does not play any role in our case.

Step 2. Clean the outside of the tub. If there is grease on it, you will have to wash it off with solvents. Working with solvents is unsafe for health; ensure maximum ventilation of the room. It is better to work outdoors rather than indoors. Be sure to use respiratory protection.

Step 3. After the solvent has completely dried, moisten the surface of the bottom with a spray bottle. Moisture increases the adhesion coefficient of foam to the bottom by an order of magnitude. In addition, water promotes optimal chemical reactions and the foam will harden much faster.

Step 4. Shake the foam container thoroughly and put on a special plastic tube. Start covering the bottom with foam. The process will go faster if you apply it in sectors from bottom to top. The foam should lie in even rows at a distance of no more than a centimeter. Wider rows are not a problem; after hardening, the gaps will correct themselves. If the surface dries out, re-wet it with a sprayer. Do not touch the wet foam with your hands, do not try to “stick” it to the surface. You won't get anything other than additional problems. The foam will no longer increase in volume, and it is almost impossible to wash your hands. You will have to scrape it off for a long time and tediously with a knife.

Step 5. Wait until the foam hardens, check the uniformity of the coating, and blow out any gaps.

Practical advice. If the foam falls off from vertical surfaces, then turn the bathtub in different directions and finish only the horizontal ones. It will take longer to work, but the result is worth it.

Step 6. Cut off the excess foam near the edge of the bath; it should not interfere with making the frame for the screen. The distance depends on the type and method of installation of the screen.

This completes the preparatory work for installation. The bathtub has a siphon, legs and insulation.

Installing a bathtub on bricks

This installation completely eliminates the bathtub from swaying and tipping over; we strongly recommend using it.

Step 1. Place the clawfoot bathtub in the desired location, mark their location, and draw horizontal lines. Bricks or blocks will be laid along these lines. The bathtub is pre-adjustable in height and inclination using leg bolts.

Step 2. Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor, prepare the required number of bricks. If necessary, use a mason's hammer to chop off the excess parts to the required height.

Step 3. Prepare a cement-sand mortar. For one part of cement, add about three parts of sand, water as needed.

Step 4. Lay two rows of bricks where the tub is supported. Place about two more centimeters of solution on top. The solution should hold its shape and not spread over the surface of the bricks. If necessary, add a little sand and cement to it, mix thoroughly.

Step 5. Carefully lower the bath vertically into place until it stops with the solution. Now, with a little effort, rock and press it until your legs touch the floor, repeat these actions on both sides. Take your time, let the bath gradually take its place and squeeze out the excess solution. Once the feet (if any) touch the floor, the installation is complete. Give the solution time to harden (about a day) and continue installing the bathtub.

Bath screens

Using screens, communications are hidden; it is possible to make shelves for storing various household items. In addition, they significantly improve the interior of the room. The screen can be brick with further cladding with ceramic tiles, MDF, plastic panels, plasterboard, OSB or in the form of an ordinary curtain made of thick fabric. We'll tell you how to do each option in turn.

The structures must provide convenient access to the siphon for periodic routine cleaning of the system. It is advisable to have an opening for the feet only if the bathroom is used for washing. As an option - a country house for temporary residence. It is unprofitable and dangerous to install an expensive washing machine in it; summer residents, out of old habit, use the bathtub to wash clothes.

What types of frames are there for installing screens?

Any type of screen, except brick, is mounted on a frame. They are made from metal profiles (the best option), wooden slats or square pipes. The latter option is very expensive and labor-intensive, and has no operational advantages. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a load of hundreds of kilograms, if it actually does not exceed a few? We believe that there is no point in considering it. The manufacture of the structure must be approached very carefully; in any case, a crooked structure will have to be redone.

How to make a frame from metal profiles?

Step 1. Count the number of profiles.

They need three vertical baths in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal in the width of the bath. To strengthen the structure, use jumpers; you need to make a separate small frame for the door. Three jumpers in length are enough; in width you can do without them. Knowing the dimensions of your bathtub, it is easy to find out the total amount of material. Immediately buy self-tapping screws for attaching profiles.

Step 2. Make the markings.

This is a very important stage, don’t rush, check the measurements several times. To increase accuracy, use a plumb line; the level does not indicate vertical planes accurately.

How to make markup?

1. Apply the plumb line to the wall and corner of the bathtub, wait until it calms down. Make a mark of the upper and lower position of the thread, draw a line between the marks. Using the same algorithm, draw a vertical line at all free corners of the bathtub; there can be two or three of them depending on the size of the bathtub and the room. This way the junction of the screen with the walls is indicated.
2. At a distance of about 3-4 centimeters, draw parallel lines next to them outside the perimeter of the bath. The specific distance depends on the frame material and finishing materials: plasterboard, OSB, MDF or glue and ceramic tiles.
3. Draw the same parallel lines on the bathroom floor. Check all dimensions again to avoid mistakes.

Further work depends on the material used to make the frame. The best option is a metal profile, but you can also work with wooden slats.

Metal profile frame

Step 1. Cut the metal profile to size; we have already described how to determine them. Don’t work on jumpers yet; make blanks only around the perimeter of the frame.

Step 2. Lay the long profile on the floor, one side should be exactly adjacent to the marked line. Carefully use a marker to mark the locations for drilling holes for the dowels. It's not good to work with a pencil, use a marker.

Step 3. Remove the profile, drill holes with a drill, put the profile in place and fix it. Do not immediately tighten the dowels; the strips have perforated holes, with the help of which the element can be slightly moved in different directions and achieved an exact position.

Step 4. Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If you plan to use a heavy OSB board for cladding, then the vertical and horizontal profiles at the corners are connected to each other with hardware.

Step 5. Attach the profiles along the length and width close to the top side of the bathroom, you should have a strong frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers to strengthen the structure. They can have a vertical or horizontal position.

Step 6. Decide on the size of the door for the siphon inspection, make a small frame for it in the right place. Constantly check the position of all frame elements with a level. The door dimensions are at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise it is inconvenient to clean the siphon.

The frame is ready, check its stability, apply multidirectional efforts from all sides. The structure is wobbly - add jumpers in problem areas, achieve high stability.

Frame made of wooden blocks

In terms of its performance, it is in no way inferior to metal profiles. Do not be afraid that rot will appear on the tree. If there are any concerns, soak it with antiseptics.

For the frame you can use slats of various sizes. When choosing, take into account the load of the finishing sheathing. A universal option can be considered to be the dimensions of the slats five by five centimeters. Make markings on the floor and wall as always. One feature - take into account the width of the slats; they should fit under the side shelves of the bathtub and not interfere with the finishing. To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels; the width of the corners is slightly less than the width of the slats. This will make it possible to adjust the position of the frame without fear. In addition, possible errors when drilling holes for dowels can be easily corrected.

Step 1. Place a long block on the floor and estimate the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling holes for dowels.

Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the possibility of the corner going beyond the line, it is better to move it slightly inward. It’s not scary that it will be screwed to the block off-center, but nothing will interfere with the finishing.

Step 2. Drill holes, secure the corners with dowels and a block to them with self-tapping screws. Adjust its position. Install the short block in the same way.

Step 3. Measure the height of the vertical elements. Make a gap of approximately 1 cm to the bottom of the sides of the bathtub. Using corners, fasten the segments into a single structure with the bottom one.

Step 4. Prepare two more long and two short ones for fixing in the upper part of the frame. Why two and not one? We recommend installing the first one at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the side; these bars are needed to control the size and verticality of the frame. On an already stable structure, it is recommended to fix one more one close to the side. It’s much easier to do this, and the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure increases.

Step 5. Make a frame for the door in the right places; if heavy materials are used, then install several jumpers. To increase strength, you can fix several spacers in the corners.

The frame is ready, you can begin the finishing cladding, fastening is carried out with wood screws.

Brick screens

In terms of time, they do not take much time, and in terms of strength, reliability and durability they are much superior to the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The quantity is calculated in this way.

1. Calculate the side and end area of ​​the space near the bathtub that you are going to cover.
2. Divide the resulting amount by the area of ​​one brick or block. Round the quantity to a whole number. For reserve, you can take one block or two bricks.

One bath will require two buckets of sand and a third of a bucket of cement. In the future, the surface needs to be finished with ceramic tiles; we will give a step-by-step design in the next section.

Step 1. Place the first row of bricks on the edge, constantly checking its position with a level. You need to know that masonry on an edge has its own characteristics; if they are not followed, the wall may “float”. First feature. The solution should be slightly thicker than when laying flat. To increase the adhesion of the mortar to the side edge of the brick, it should be moistened with a spray bottle. Do not overdo it. The optimal degree of wetting will be determined practically. Second feature. After three rows you need to give the solution time to harden a little. Take a break for two or three hours.

The bricks are laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joints of the lower row are covered with whole bricks of the upper one.

Step 2. Continue working until the entire space is covered. It will be difficult to push the mortar into the gap between the masonry and the sides. It is advisable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the bathtub installation. Use any small means at hand for these purposes; such work cannot be done with a trowel.

Important. Don't forget to leave a hole for siphon inspection. Check the structure, remove any remaining mortar that has emerged. Give it time to harden at least 24 hours.

Ceramic tile finishing

If the wall already has tiles, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated. The fact is that you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and the screen. There are situations when it is impossible to lay a whole tile, you have to cut it into pieces. If you have no practical experience in cutting tiles, use plastic inserts. They can even out jambs up to a centimeter, but the appearance, of course, will suffer a little. Real professionals do not use inserts for joints; their cuts fit tightly to surfaces without gaps.

Step 1. Count the number of tiles, the method is the same as for bricks. And you can buy one or two tiles as a spare; you won’t need any more, the surface area to be finished is very small. You need to buy about 10 kg of glue.

Step 2. Start laying tiles from the bottom row. Check the position with a level or a level lath, and check several tiles at the same time. They must lie strictly in the same plane.

Step 3. The tiles are placed on an uneven surface; it is impossible to use a comb. Apply the glue with a spatula along the edges and in the center of the tile, about one centimeter thick. Next, the tile must be pressed and moved left and right until the position is leveled. The final adjustment is made with a level. Don't forget to use crosses. Some beginners install crosses flat on the four corners of the joint. This should not be done for several reasons. Firstly, it is much more difficult to level the tile; the cross will constantly move the nearby one. Secondly, there will be problems with removing the cross; you will have to pick out each one with a knife.

Step 4. No experience - use plastic elements in corners and joints, they make the work much easier.

Step 5. After about two hours you can start. The color of the material should be in harmony with the tiles and the overall design of the room. Excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. Do not wait until it is completely dry; dry material is difficult to clean.

Finishing with OSB boards or plasterboard

Finishing with slabs is much simpler than laying ceramic tiles. How is it done?

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the frame and mark the slab. As a rule, the length of the bathtub exceeds the length of the slab; it will have to be joined. This possibility must be foreseen during the manufacture of the frame and a vertical stand must be installed at the joining point.

Cut off all the blanks. Drywall is easily cut with a mounting knife; for OSB you will need a hand-held electric saw or jigsaw.

Step 2. Fix the elements one by one with self-tapping screws, and work carefully with the drywall. When the self-tapping screws are tightened with great force, their heads fall inside the plaster, and new ones have to be screwed in.

Step 3. Screw small hinges where the door is installed. Check the functionality of the door.

Step 4. Proceed with finishing surfaces. You can use ceramic tiles - it takes a long time and is expensive. There is a simpler option - cover the surfaces with self-adhesive decorative film; today there is a huge selection on sale - cheap and beautiful. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in case of mechanical damage. But the film also has a drawback - the surface must be perfectly flat.

Practical advice. Do not try to immediately glue the film without air pockets, it is almost impossible to do. Removing air is simple - pierce the pocket in several places with a needle and remove the air by smoothing the pocket.

Plastic lining

The option is not the best. It is recommended to use if the bathroom walls are lined with clapboard. The installation process is standard. The problem arises with the technological hole and the door. Practitioners recommend making them from OSB from plasterboard and not wasting time on lining.

How to make sliding doors

A very simple and functional screen option. For manufacturing you will need two guides and an MDF board. The disadvantage of this material is that there is a possibility of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making a separate small frame for the doors. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats; MDF is glued to them with special glue.

Step 1. Make a frame from a metal profile; we have described the algorithm for making such structures. Check the position of all elements.

Important. For a sliding screen, it is especially important to maintain the parameters; the racks must be strictly vertical.

Step 2. Attach the guides to the frame. They can be aluminum or plastic.

Step 3. Measure the exact distance between the guides; the spread in parallelism cannot exceed 1–2 mm. Otherwise, the doors will jam when opening/closing.

Step 4. Cut out the doors of the required size from the MDF board. For overlap, 2–3 cm is enough. You can cut the slab with an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw. Work carefully, place emphasis on the bottom - this will reduce the hairiness of the cut.

Step 5. Bevel the cut. Use sandpaper or a cylindrical sander. Install handles.

There is another way. It is the most reliable, but also the most labor-intensive. It is advisable to use it before covering the walls; if they are already finished, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated.

Step 1. Remove the row of ceramic tiles at the level of the bathtub rim. If it breaks, there's nothing to worry about. Put a new one in its place and make a pattern around the bathtub, this will only improve the appearance.

Step 2. On the wall, draw a line for the position of the upper plane of the side of the bathtub, at a distance of about 2 cm, draw another line. It indicates the position of the protruding side part of the side.

Step 3. Make a groove in the wall along lines approximately 1 cm deep.

Step 4. Apply sealant to the ends of the rim and place the bathtub in place. The edges should fit slightly into the groove; remove excess sealant.

The tiles were laid, decorative ceramic plinth was used to match the tiles

This method completely guarantees the tightness of the junction; water will never get behind the bathtub.

Use any method that does not present difficulties for you. If the technology is not violated, then the tightness of the junction of the bathtub with the wall will be sufficient.

Video - Installing a steel bathtub