Rules for the location of sockets and switches. Installation height of switches and sockets in the apartment. For hidden location

It is clear that the installation of sockets and switches in a room in most cases determines the degree of comfort. It is equally important that their optimal height distance from the point of view of convenience assumes normal accessible operation. At the same time, it would not violate their functional purpose, the features of the existing interior in the arrangement of household electrical appliances. The standard installation of sockets and switches includes a 100 centimeter or 50 centimeter distance of the device from the floor. At the same time, it cannot be called an example of convenient use of sockets and switches. It is for this reason that most owners of their own apartments try to replace the old electrical wiring with a new one with a different installation of sockets and switches. Changing the distance allows you to increase the degree of convenience in using sockets and switches.

Installation according to European standards, GOST or convenience

Installing sockets and switches according to European standards is a good idea. But at the same time, it is limited by the general requirements that so successfully replaced the Soviet standard for installing sockets and switches with a new, so to speak, European standard.

According to the European standard, sockets are installed at a height of 0.3 meters, and the installation of a switch must be at a height of no less than 0.9 meters from the base of the floor. In addition, in different parts of our country the height of the established standard may differ slightly, but still differ. At the same time, the installation height of sockets and switches here can be either less than the total distance according to the European standard or more.

But, seriously. So far, there is no established European standard regarding the installation of the height of sockets and switches.

Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations, requirements compiled in accordance with IEC standards only mention the possibility of installing plug sockets at a more convenient distance from the floor, which can be read in Chapter 6.6.30 Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations.

It is for this reason that during installation work on installing devices you have to be guided by ease of use. But at the same time, do not violate the developed and approved restrictions on height compliance with generally accepted regulatory documents. That is, standards that are associated not only with the location of sockets and switches, but also with safety equipment and in relation to the installation of electrical wiring and electrical installation devices. (PUE-7 Internal electrical equipment, chapter 7.1.48-7.1.54).

Recommendations regarding the installation of electrical installation devices

But with regard to the Soviet standard, the ease of installation of sockets and switches is quite doubtful. As practice has shown, the previously used standard does not meet the conditions of convenient operation, which cannot be said about the notorious European standard, which has become more suitable for us than the old Soviet GOST.

And the convenience of installed sockets and switches at the entrance to the room should be no higher than at the level of the lowered hand of an adult user of average height. And this is a directly established standard for the distance of sockets and switches at the very entrance to the room. This is necessary so that you can quickly find the device, even in the dark.

Of course, it should be noted that the installed points of electrical installations are built in according to standards in accordance with the convenience of their use. Only, it is completely accepted to adhere to a distance and height of 0.3 meters for sockets and about.9 meters for switches, as a necessary and correct height standard should not be.

In addition, in a room with a large area, to control its lighting, it is better to install sockets and switches at different points in the room. For these purposes, pass-through switches are used. It is clear that it is very problematic to get deep into the room in the dark in order, for example, to find a switch and turn on the light.

Ideal option, installation of plug sockets

Therefore, the most suitable option is to install plug sockets with no switches, which are directly connected in rooms with bathrooms. At the same time, all electrical devices, this applies to both sockets and switches for household appliances such as washing machines, where there is a need to take them outside, for example, to the wall in the hallway.

In addition, special attention should be paid to those places in the kitchen where the largest number of electrical appliances are located. This means installing sockets at the table in the kitchen, where you can and should install a couple of spare sockets. In this case, the most common option is a distance of about 10-15 centimeters from the kitchen table top. At the same time, the number of installed sockets should ensure maximum convenient use. This means that when designing repairs, it is necessary to take into account ease of use, common sense and requirements in accordance with regulatory documents.

What to look for when choosing sockets

When preparing for electrical installation work, many people ask the following question: at what height should sockets and switches be installed?

For individual dwellings, strict height figures are not regulated; here the main principle comes into force - to make it convenient to use electrical installations.

People of a conservative mindset are accustomed to such heights that were accepted in houses of the Soviet period, where the height of sockets from the finished floor varied from 800 to 900 mm, and switches from 1500 to 1600 mm; they will not give up such heights out of habit.

Others are more open to everything new and unusual, adopting European standards, where more or less everything is done for the convenience and comfort of a person.

Read a selection of articles about installing sockets in the apartment:

What heights do modern people most often use to install sockets and switches?

Sockets are installed at a height of 300 - 400 mm, and switches at a height of 800 - 900 mm from the finished floor level. Such heights are becoming generally accepted today.

Depending on the purpose of the sockets, the devices can be installed at other heights, for example, in the kitchen, for ease of use of various electrical household appliances, the sockets are placed in one line above the countertop, at a height of 200 - 250 mm.

When using audio and video devices in the room, together with power sockets in one line, special sockets are installed - audio, video, telephone, Internet. In this case, it is practical to install a comprehensive set of sockets not too low; on average, the height can vary between 500 - 1200 mm. In the bathroom, install an outlet with a protection level of at least IP-44, at a height of 1 meter from the clean floor and at a distance of at least 600 mm from the bathtub or shower stall.

The installation of switches must be planned in such a way that the device does not end up behind a closed door. Switches are installed at a distance of at least 100 mm from the door opening.

Before installing electrical installations, draw conventional sockets and switches on the wall, then take a closer look at whether the chosen location is suitable for you, or even better, go to visit your friends and see what height option they use, ask how convenient this location is for that to draw your own conclusions, weighing the pros and cons.
height of sockets and switches

In a modern apartment, the kitchen is one of the main consumers of electricity. The power of current collectors connected to the electrical wiring in the kitchen can sometimes reach more than half of the entire load of the apartment.

Based on this, electrical wiring in the kitchen should be carried out by an independent group, or even better, by several groups.

Power of electrical appliances in the kitchen

Before work, you will have to draw up a small project or diagram. To do this, the power of all electrical appliances that will be in the kitchen is initially calculated.

Here is an approximate list of them:

• lighting – 150-200 Watt

• Microwave – 2000 Watt

• Refrigerator – 100 Watt

• Dishwasher – 1000-2000 Watt

• Electric kettle – 2000 Watt

• Oven – 2000 Watt

• Water heater – 2000 Watt

• Hob - 3500-7500 Watt

Of course, all devices will not turn on at the same time. But you must calculate the total power. Most often it is in the range of 10-15 watts.

The maximum power, when several pantographs are switched on simultaneously, in an ordinary apartment, as a rule, does not exceed 7 kW.

If your power is higher than 7 kW, then you need to think about inputting 380V and distributing the load across phases.

Which cable to choose for the kitchen

Next, you need to calculate the cross-section of the common supply wire of the electrical panel and the outgoing wiring to each pantograph. Follow the rules here:

• for device loads up to 3.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2

• for device loads up to 5.5 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*4mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 10 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*6mm2

• with a total load of all devices up to 15 kW - copper cable VVGng-Ls 3*10mm2

Why there should be a brand VVGnG-Ls is discussed in detail in the article below:

Even if you have a house with an old grounding system (without a third protective conductor), still do the wiring with a 3-core cable. This will save you in the future from additional costs for reconstruction and replacement of wires.

As a last resort, the third wire will be a backup for zero or phase, in case of a possible break or other damage.

Layout of sockets in the kitchen

After choosing the wiring, you need to decide on the sockets.

Always plan the placement of outlets after the kitchen design is approved, otherwise there may be problems. For example, work area sockets can easily end up in the wrong place and end up hidden behind the refrigerator.

To ensure that your sockets and switches are in their places, take a plan for arranging your kitchen furniture.

After that, mark on it all the necessary sockets. You can even do it by hand.

On this plan, there is still no need to clearly assign installation locations and calculate dimensions and distances. Just count the number and purpose of each of the outlets.

Number of sockets

How many outlets are required in the kitchen?

The category of stationary appliances includes a refrigerator, range hood, hob and oven, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposer.

In addition, it would not hurt to mount one socket immediately under or near the switch at the entrance to the room.

The area with switches usually remains uncluttered, and a free point where you can take voltage (for example, for a vacuum cleaner) is never superfluous.

Now mark the points on the apron for connecting non-stationary devices. Lay at least two pieces for each part (right and left) of the kitchen.

This will include an electric kettle, blender, mixer, etc.

Distances and locations

When you have decided on the quantity, it’s time to move on to calculating the required sizes and indentations. To do this, draw something like a sweep of the walls where the furniture will stand.

Here you will already need the exact dimensions of the kitchen - the length, height of the room. Gradually, in the form of rectangles, draw the equipment and all the cabinets.

If the kitchen is corner, do the same with the adjacent wall.

Fridge

For refrigerators, manufacturers recommend placing the socket group under the appliance itself, that is, in the bottom row, so that the connection is not visible.

It is impossible to say unambiguously with 100% certainty at what height the bottom row of sockets should be made.

This is explained by the fact that if you install it higher, the built-in equipment will rest against the forks.

If you intend to turn off the plug quite often, then the bottom connection for the refrigerator is not always convenient. In this case, you can place the whole thing at the height of the working area.

Sockets in the work area and above the tabletop

The height of the tabletop is usually 85cm, maximum 90cm. Then there is a partition with a height of 550-600mm and then cabinets.

Place sockets in this area 105cm from the floor.

In this case, they will not end up in the middle of the wall, and it will be convenient to cover them with the same microwave.

The minimum distance from the countertop should be at least 5cm so that the kitchen plinth does not touch them. Location - one set in any corner, plus between the hob and sink.

As mentioned above, at least two pieces. If you don't like the look of sockets above the kitchen splashback, consider the option of a pull-out unit from the countertop.

You definitely need to consider whether there will be built-in appliances in the upper cabinets. For example, a microwave.

You will also have to make a separate outlet for it. It is not feng shui to pull the cords from above to the tabletop area.

Hood

Also at the top, at a height of 1.9m-2.0m, there is an outlet for the hood. However, a lot can depend on the brand. If this is a cheap option, then you can get by with the cable outlet and then connect it directly inside the equipment.

But if this is an expensive model, then it comes with its own fork. And cutting off the factory plug will void the warranty.

Hob and oven

If you have a powerful hob, either a cable outlet is made, followed by connection directly under the panel contact blocks, or a special power socket is installed.

Ovens, unlike cooking ovens, come with regular forks, so there’s no need to be fancy here. Plug them into simple sockets.

When there are cabinets with hinged doors to the left or right of the cooker and oven, it is very convenient to place sockets directly inside them. Step back 15-20cm from the edge and mount it.

If this is not possible, then you will have to connect from the lower group.

If the oven is installed separately from the hob, for example at chest height, make a socket for it in the lower cabinet at a height of up to 750mm.

Dishwasher

According to SP 31-110 2003 clause 14.29, it is prohibited to install any sockets under or above sinks or sinks. Therefore, always back off a few centimeters when installing a socket group near this plumbing fixture. This applies to both the lower placement and the working area at the top.

It is also prohibited to place sockets behind the dishwasher and washing machine.

Near the dining table (if it is located near the wall and not in the center of the kitchen), it is advisable to plan one outlet.

On major holidays, when there is an influx of guests and relatives in the apartment, you will definitely need to connect something on the table - a mixer, a juicer, a food processor, etc.

And on simple days, you can easily attach a laptop there when working in the kitchen.

• for a group of sockets into which devices up to 3.5 kW are connected, a 16A circuit breaker is installed

• for devices up to 5.5 kW automatic 25A. Moreover, it is better to extend a separate group to this pantograph

You can also navigate using the following table for selecting machines and cables when connecting a hob:

• since the kitchen is a wet room, plus a huge number of objects with a metal case, it is mandatory to install an incoming RCD with a current of 30 mA in the panel in front of all machines

• A separate socket is installed for each pantograph

This is not only an additional load on the wiring, but also a potential short circuit (due to spilled tea or other liquid).

Common mistakes

The problems you will definitely encounter in this case are hidden sockets behind cabinets, refrigerators, etc. It is very likely that you will even have to use carriers, since the factory cords and plugs will simply not reach the connection points.

The instructions for refrigerators usually indicate a ban on connecting them through extension cords. At the same time, their cord length is not that long, only 1 m.

Therefore, if you know what brand of refrigerator you will have, find the passport on the Internet and look at which side the power cord comes out of it. Add in the width of the refrigerator and plan the connection point accordingly to eliminate the need for carrying.

And in some models, the freezer can be connected with a separate independent cord, or you will purchase an additional freezer in the future. Initially, you will make only one socket for the equipment, but in the end you will need two. So it is better to make this block double.

Appliances such as a dishwasher, washing machine (if it is built into the kitchen), instantaneous water heater, etc. must be connected via an RCD or differential circuit breaker.

No modular circuit breakers, or even more so “plugs,” will ever save you from current leaks.

Even if you do not have a grounding conductor, the RCD will still help and protect in this case.

This location is prohibited by the rules. Step back 500mm from the mixer (the same applies to gas pipes for stoves or hobs) and only then safely install the electrical installation product.

If the electricians have already installed the wiring there and there is no way to redo it, or you got an apartment with such renovations, then make sure that the sockets under the sink are waterproof (like in the bathroom).

It is also prohibited to install electrical installation products in the immediate vicinity of the stoves.

In an area up to 25 cm from the floor, plumbers usually install pipes for the sink, washing machine, and dishwasher.

Without knowing the exact route, do not rush to ditch the walls, otherwise it may result in a flood and unplanned repairs for you and your neighbors.

To summarize, I would like to say that electrical wiring in the kitchen should be done by professionals. Using the tips in this article, you can easily control the entire process and make your competent comments during installation work.

When replacing electrical wiring, you need to decide what the height of the sockets will be from the floor. That's right - to decide, because there are no strict regulations and standards.

At what height can they be

There are no norms and standards regulating the location of sockets and switches in rooms and general-purpose premises. There are only restrictions on the maximum height for sockets - no higher than 1 meter from the floor, as well as standards that relate to electrical wiring in rooms with difficult operating conditions. In houses and apartments, these are bathrooms.

So all the same, at what height should the sockets be installed? There are two options:

Where to place the switch

Switches are easier to deal with. They should be placed so that most family members can use them comfortably. It is convenient to turn on / off the light with a lowered hand. Lower your hand, mark the level of the palm. This is where the keys can be placed. This location is also ideal for children. They can reach this level already in 3-4 years. That is, adults will not have to go and turn on the light for the child if he wants to play or go, for example, to the toilet.

But this is far from the only option. In the bedroom, for example, you can. They allow you to control light from several points. In this case, one switch is placed near the door and one or two near the bed. This way you can turn off the light without getting up. Very comfortably. The installation height of such a switch is somewhere on the side of the mattress on the side of the bed.

Choosing a place for sockets in the rooms

Choosing a place to install sockets is more difficult. They can be placed even at floor level. By the way, there are floor-standing models that are wired in a special plinth with a cable duct. From a design point of view, this installation is the most inconspicuous - they do not rush into the gas. But from an operational point of view, it’s far from ideal. To insert/remove the fork, you will have to bend or squat very low. Although this is inconvenient for young people, it is not problematic, but for older people this arrangement can become a problem. If there are elderly people in the family, it is desirable that the height of the sockets from the floor be at least 30-40 cm. In this case, you will have to bend over, but this tilt cannot be compared with the previous method of placement. This is a compromise option - both quite convenient and not very noticeable.

Near the table, the height of the sockets is above the tabletop

But not all power points in rooms need to be installed this way. For example, if the height of the sockets from the floor near the desktop is 40 cm or so, it will be very inconvenient to dive under the table every time. In such a place it is better to place them 10-15 cm above the level of the tabletop. This is really convenient.

Height of sockets in the kitchen

Wiring in the kitchen is a whole system. Firstly, each powerful device has a separate power supply line with a circuit breaker and RCD installed on it. There can be up to 10 such appliances (dishwasher, oven, electric stove, washing machine, electric water heater, high-power built-in household appliances). These sockets must be placed in the place where you plan to install the devices.

Dedicated lines for powerful electrical appliances

A dedicated line is needed for the refrigerator. But the reason here is not the increased power consumption, but the voltage surges that the refrigerator motor creates when turning it on and off. It is better for other devices to sense them to a minimum, and this is possible if there is a separate line. The socket for the refrigerator can be made at any height - at least 5 cm from the floor, at least at elbow level (110-120 cm).

A dedicated power supply line with an RCD and automatic circuit breaker is required for a gas heating boiler. It requires a stable voltage, and a separate line is simply necessary. This outlet must be located taking into account the fact that the installation of a voltage stabilizer will be required (if it is not installed for the entire apartment or house). The best option is on the side of the boiler. Right or left - as circumstances allow.

We choose the height depending on the connected equipment

For built-in household appliances, the height of the sockets from the floor is 10 cm (this is from the floor to the center of the socket, and from its lower edge - about 5 cm). They are located on the wall behind the equipment. The location is such that you can reach through the base. At the same level there is a power supply point for the washing machine. It can be made higher if the sink cabinet does not have a back wall.

For lighting and hood, sockets are installed above the cabinets. Their lower edge is 5-10 cm above the cabinets. The backlight switch is located on the work wall, located immediately under the upper cabinets.

You can do it this way. The main thing is ease of use

The rest of the small household appliances are usually placed on the desktop, so it is convenient to connect them almost immediately above the countertop. The height of the sockets from the floor in this case is 110-120 cm. This will be about 15-20 cm above the tabletop. Just the way we need it. If you order a non-standard height, adjust the position of the sockets accordingly.

Sockets for small kitchen appliances are grouped in groups of three or four side by side. This is convenient during operation and more acceptable during installation. You decide which equipment will be convenient to work with where, count the number of units that will need to be turned on at the same time, add one or two “just in case.” This will be the required number of sockets. Their height is the same 15-20 cm above the tabletop, that is, relative to the floor it will be 100-120 cm.

In the bathroom

The second problematic room for electricians is the bathroom. But the problems here are of a different nature - high humidity and the possibility of water ingress. To understand where to put sockets in the bathroom, you need to know where to place household appliances. The bathroom space is divided into zones (see photo).

Zone 0 is the highest probability of water entry. These are areas directly adjacent to the bathtub, shower stall, and sink. In this zone, you can only install 12 V sockets. But such voltage is supplied extremely rarely in private homes. There are simply no sockets here at all.

In zone 1, installation of water heaters is allowed. In zone 2, in addition to boilers, you can install fans and lamps. And the sockets should be in zone 3 - at a distance of at least 60 cm from the water source. It is necessary to install special sockets and switches, the degree of protection of which allows them to be used in wet rooms. Also a prerequisite is the presence of grounding, a circuit breaker and an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA.

The height of the sockets from the floor is again not regulated, but it makes sense to place them higher to minimize the possibility of water ingress. Even if you install special sockets with covers, it’s better to be safe.

Electrical wiring rules

When laying wiring to sockets and switches, certain rules must be followed:

• The wiring around the room is carried out strictly horizontally, at a distance of 20 cm from the ceiling.
• From the mounting box the wire runs vertically upward.

Why such strictness? So that in any conditions you can understand where and how the wiring goes. If you lay it arbitrarily - obliquely, along the shortest path, etc., in a few years no one will remember where and how the wires go and when hanging, for example, a new one, you can easily get into the wiring. By following these simple rules, you will always be able to visually determine where the wires run - above the outlet or switch, regardless of their height from the floor.

When creating design ideas for decorating rooms, they often deviate from previously established traditional methods of placing sockets and switches on building elements.

Nowadays, more and more attention is paid to ease of use, operational safety, and preserving the health of residents.

When repairing electrical wiring, a home repairman analyzes existing solutions and chooses the one that is most suitable for his family members. Let's look at them briefly using small examples with pictures.

Traditional old ways

Just two or three decades ago in our country there were two options for the location of switches and one for sockets, which were installed in almost all residential premises.

Switch placement

When a person enters his apartment from the street, his eyes adjust from the perception of sunlight to twilight. For a comfortable stay in the room, it is necessary to turn on the lamps. Therefore, switches are placed near the front door. They are also convenient for turning off the lights when leaving the room for a long time.

Previously, the switch was installed in two ways:

1. directly under the ceiling;
2. at shoulder height of an adult.

Ceiling structures

The switch was called a ceiling switch based on the installation method. It was located at a high altitude, and for convenient control, a cord was lowered down.

In this case, it was necessary to lay a minimum length of electrical wires from the distribution box, and a push-button design with a self-resetting spring was used for switching the lighting circuits.

To turn on the light, you just had to pull the cord and immediately release it: the lamp would light up reliably. Repeated tension and release of the cord relieved the voltage from the light bulbs: they went out.

The picture shows an option for controlling a single-contact switch in the corridor for a single light bulb. Similar models of ceiling devices may have two contacts that sequentially control different groups of lamps, for example, in a chandelier.

Wall structures

They are also located at the front door, but are mounted in the wall at the shoulder level of an adult or slightly higher, who only needs to raise his hand to turn on the light.

A distance from the floor of 1.6÷1.8 meters was considered optimal; many have become accustomed to it since childhood.

The side of the switches with the socket was placed at the same height. They were often placed between the doors of the bathroom and toilet.

Placement of sockets

The installation of sockets was carried out at a height of about 90 cm of the floor.

A small number of them are now clearly not enough; people have to connect tees or extension cords. The best solution is to replace them with blocks. However, it is worth understanding that the load on the old wires should be constantly taken into account. Otherwise in such electrical wiring.

Most apartment owners still live in houses with a similar arrangement of sockets and switches, have become accustomed to it, and find it quite convenient.

Modern design solutions

Our population often pronounces the word “Eurostandard” when carrying out repairs, explaining to them that existing construction methods are borrowed from European countries. However, like the term “European-quality renovation”, it is used only as a marketing technique for construction companies.

In fact, modern construction standards and the rules in force in electrical installations do not strictly limit the height and number of sockets with switches inside residential buildings. They do not prohibit the placement of electrical switching devices at the discretion of the owner where it is convenient for him to operate them.

The main thing in this matter is to carry out the electrical wiring in such a way that it eliminates the risk of electric shock to residents.

Technical limitations

Modern construction standards:

• recommend user-friendly locations;
• require the use of protective measures in the electrical circuit;
• stipulate dangerous high-risk areas;
• prohibit the use of conventional devices not adapted to these operating conditions.

For example, building rules SP 31-110-2003 recommend that apartment owners use switches mounted near the entrance door handle to the room at a height of about one meter. In this case, the person does not need to perform unnecessary actions: the hand is already near the switch.

They also allow you to control the light with ceiling models with a cord, install sockets where it is convenient to use them and do not limit their number. After all, the lack of sockets in modern rooms with a large number of electrical consumers makes it necessary to connect various tees, use extension cords that do not always match the power of the connected load, creating a fire hazard.

Electrical equipment in the kitchen

The rules prohibit placing sockets and switches close to the equipment of gas stoves or gas pipelines. During electrical switching, especially the rupture of powerful loads, the formation of an arc, sparking, and the appearance of gas in such a place will lead to a fire or explosion.

Therefore, it is prohibited to install sockets and switches closer than 50 cm from any gas appliances.

Bathrooms

A humid environment is formed in the interior of the bathroom, which is a good conductor of current. Therefore, the entire volume of the room is divided into safety zones that take this factor into account. They are shown in the picture.

It is better not to use sockets in the bathroom.

As an exception, the rules allow their installation only in zone No. 3, limiting the approach to any water equipment of a bathtub or sink to 60 cm. Moreover, the requirements of GOST R 50571.11-96 require the use of protective devices in such rooms: isolating transformers.

Compliance with these requirements is the key to human safety.

The ease of use of sockets and switches must be thought out in advance and planned before the start of repairs and the implementation of design ideas. For each room, it is recommended to make a sketch of it, taking into account the detailed arrangement of furniture and electrical appliances.

Don’t forget about low-current circuits: communications, television, alarms, computer systems, video surveillance, etc.

Creating a small supply of sockets and space in cable ducts for future reconstruction of rooms is quite justified.

Features of placement of switching devices

How to arrange sockets

Stationary electrical appliances

To connect large stationary consumers of electrical energy, such as freezers, refrigerators, televisions, washing machines, it is advisable to locate sockets outside the normal field of view of a person. Then they will not have a significant impact on the overall design of the room.

But this does not mean that the electrician’s access to the outlet should be limited, because over time it will have to be inspected, checked and, quite possibly, repaired.

Portable electrical appliances

Sockets intended for powering periodically connected devices, for example, a vacuum cleaner, are installed uniformly on the wall, raising their level to the same distance of about 30 cm. The eyes of an ordinary person notice them less with this arrangement, and ease of use is not impaired.

Don’t be afraid of installing sockets every two to three meters around the perimeter of all rooms. They facilitate the operation of a large number of electrical appliances used in everyday life.

Tables and bedside tables

How to position switches

Mounting the light switch near the front door handle is most convenient for the user. It should be removed from the opening by more than 10 cm and placed from the floor to a height of 90÷100 cm. In this case, an adult does not raise his hand high, and a child from four years old can independently use the light without the help of parents.

When ceiling switches are used, the end of the control cord is also directed to the same point.

If the apartment has a long corridor, then two pass-through switches are installed at its ends, allowing you to control the light of one lamp from opposite points.

Near the entrance doors to small adjacent rooms, it is convenient to place a block of sockets and a three-key switch that controls the light of each room from this place.

Inside the bedroom, it is customary to turn off the light directly from the bed, without getting out of it, but simply by raising your hand.

In most cases, removing switches by 90 cm from the floor level, and sockets by 30 cm is considered universal and is justified in practice.

Features of planning the locations of sockets and switches

The explanations provided in the pictures are intended to help you create a working sketch for wiring in different rooms.

One of the convenient options for arranging electrical wiring elements inside the corridor involves placing:

• apartment electrical panel with protection and switching devices;
• an electric meter that can be placed not only inside the panel, but also separately when local conditions require it;
• switches or a block of them;
• sockets;
• branch box.

A convenient option for placing sockets and switches in the bedroom is shown in the following image.

Part of the article has already been devoted to the bathroom. It can be supplemented with the following picture.

In the kitchen, you always need to use various appliances at the same time: range hood, electric or gas stove, refrigerator, multicooker, bread maker, food processor. They require a large number of sockets. It is better to mount entire blocks.

They are installed above the floor at a height of 30 cm and raised above the table level by 10÷15 cm. The outlet for the hood is mounted to a height of about 2.65 meters.

In the living room, the locations of sockets for telephone, computer, TV, and intercom are taken into account.

In rooms intended for technical purposes, such as a garage, the installation of sockets and switches should also be carefully thought out.

Usually they are located no closer than 10 cm from the wall opening at a height of 140-150 cm. This allows you to conveniently use an electric tool.

Examples of placement of sockets and switches in modern apartments

Due to local conditions, the corridor switches and sockets had to be mounted next to the entrance door on the side opposite the handle.

The socket for the electrified children's railway rises 20 cm above the table.

Sockets for video equipment and low-current circuits are hidden from prying eyes by the TV screen, and access to them for the home mechanic remains free.

In the kitchen, safety plastic plugs are installed inside the socket contacts to prevent accidental contact of a child with electrical voltage.

The lower block of sockets, hidden under the cooking table, is designed for permanently connected household appliances.

The photographs above clearly show that when creating a room design, it is not necessary to precisely maintain the recommended height and location of sockets or switches. It is enough to maintain the permissible distances to areas dangerous for electrical wiring, and the installation of switching devices should be carried out taking into account the individual characteristics of the premises and ease of use by residents.

To avoid making typical mistakes that complicate living conditions, we recommend watching an instructive video about the inconvenient location of sockets, switches, lamps and furniture. It clearly allows you to learn from the mistakes of others and not make your own.