Extension of a veranda with your own hands. Adding a veranda to the house with your own hands. Preparatory stage of construction

To attach a veranda to a wooden house, in addition to following general construction technologies, it is necessary to take into account the physical, mechanical and aesthetic properties of wood. This is largely due to the characteristics of the natural material itself - its hydrophilicity, susceptibility to intense shrinkage processes, and tendency to biological damage. When implementing wood in practice, you should always remember that its structures, even thoroughly dried and repeatedly impregnated with protective chemicals, will constantly be subject to deformation and microbiological changes throughout their entire service life. Therefore, in order for the structure to be comfortable, functional and durable during its construction, it is important to adhere to certain recommendations.

What you should know at the very beginning

The installation stage in the construction of a veranda, including those done with your own hands, often proceeds without any particular difficulties. After all, any carpenter's lumber is quite simply processed with ordinary household tools, and it is almost always possible to correct the results of your careless actions or minor mistakes. As a last resort, damaged structural elements (logs, beams, boards, etc.) can be easily replaced during their installation, which will not entail significant material costs.

However, the success of adding a veranda to a wooden house will largely depend not only on the practical skills of the installer, but also on the complexity of the chosen project, the type of lumber, and the construction method. Some things are completely within the capabilities of even amateur craftsmen, but some things cause difficulties for professional architects as well.

Therefore, first of all, you should draw up a drawing or sketch of the structure, on the basis of which the necessary materials will be calculated. In addition, a veranda attached to the house will entail a change in the main general plan of the site, therefore, it must be registered with the state supervision authorities.

IMPORTANT! If you do not have experience in planning such activities, then it is advisable to order the development of all design and estimate documentation from professionals. This will significantly facilitate the property, and will also optimize costs at the stage of purchasing target construction products.

When choosing building materials for extensions of any type, you should first of all be guided by the compatibility of the materials of their structures and the main structures. Obviously, it is better to build a veranda extension to a wooden house from wood. Coniferous species are used for the supporting frame elements: spruce, pine, larch. Products made from hardwood (beech, birch) and softwood (cedar, pine) can be installed as finishing coatings.

Wooden verandas are easiest to construct using the frame method. In this case, a supporting structure made of vertical supports can become a budget option for an open veranda or the basis of main walls with insulation for a closed veranda with heating.

Wooden veranda and its connections to the main building

From both an aesthetic and a technical point of view, it is most advisable if the extension forms a single structure with the house. In this case, there are three main areas of connection between buildings: foundation, wall and roof. Each of them can be formed in different ways, depending on the selected type of connected structures.

Foundation

A wooden veranda is a fairly lightweight structure and does not require a strong foundation. Even for closed terraces, a pile or columnar foundation with timber lining is quite sufficient. Its design allows it to withstand walls not only made of sandwich panels, but also of lightweight foam blocks or aerated concrete. Moreover, on most types of soil, the degree of shrinkage of the finished extension will be characterized by an insignificant value.

Piles for a wooden veranda

For a pile foundation, it is allowed to use screw supports - steel pipes with pointed tips and a welded screw surface. They are installed in many types of soil, including weak-bearing soils - swampy or peaty, and their installation process is fast and simple. It is performed both using special equipment and manually.

Manual installation is possible on your own, but it is better to carry it out with the assistance of several assistants, since when immersing the support it is necessary to exert considerable physical effort, while simultaneously controlling its strictly vertical orientation. Depending on the type of soil and groundwater level, the depth of screwing in the pile can reach 0.5-2.5 m.

After installation of all piles is completed, their heads are leveled (trimmed) in a horizontal plane. Then, the internal volume of the tubular supports is filled with concrete mortar, and metal plates are welded onto each of the heads. In the future, they will serve to fix the strapping beam.

Pillars for a wooden veranda

A column foundation is more affordable. When constructing it, there is no need to purchase special building materials or structures. Since the frame or timber veranda attached to a wooden house has a small mass, installing supports made of concrete blocks or ordinary solid bricks under it is quite sufficient.

On unwatered sandy, coarse-grained, rocky, etc. In soils, it is allowed to lay shallow pillars immersed in the rock by 30-50 cm (without taking into account the soil-vegetative layer). If a wooden veranda is being built on an area with heaving soils, then the depth of its columnar foundation should be below the freezing level. Otherwise, the forces of frost heaving of soils in the autumn-winter period can lead to undesirable mobility of the attached structure and deformation of the interface nodes.

After the construction of the load-bearing supports of the veranda, both pile and columnar types, they are assembled into a single system using strapping elements. They can be wooden beams or timber with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm. It is also possible to use timber made up of several boards. Along the line where the wooden veranda meets the wall of the house, timber is also installed. It is fixed with nails or dowels to a wooden wall. Its upper part should be at the level of the frame beams; in the future, logs will be attached to it.

When should you use a strip foundation?

If, according to calculations, the veranda attached to the house requires the preparation of a more reliable strip foundation, then it should not be rigidly connected to the load-bearing foundation of the main building. Since both structures have significant differences in weight and construction periods, they will also be characterized by different shrinkage dynamics. Therefore, it is necessary to provide an expansion joint between them.

It is formed as follows. When pouring the strip foundation of the veranda, a board (15-20 mm) wrapped in plastic film is laid between it and the base of the house. After stripping the foundation, it is removed, and the resulting gap is filled with polyurethane foam.

Walls

If an open terrace, built using a frame method, is attached to a wooden house, then for its enclosing structures it is envisaged to use racks made of timber, for example, with a section of 120x80 mm or 100x100 mm. If a closed frame veranda is planned, then its load-bearing elements can be boards 40-50 mm thick (width according to the thickness of the wall). In this case, the pitch of vertical supports, in accordance with the standards, is recommended to be no more than 600 mm. This is especially true for a warm veranda attached to the house. This gap between the posts is ideal for placing mineral wool insulation (the standard width of a mineral wool insulation board is 610 mm).

Particular attention should be paid to the area where the walls of the frame veranda and the house meet. It is not recommended to make it hard. There should be a gap of 3-5 mm between the outer support of the extension and the wall of the main building. The expansion joint is filled with elastic sealant for facade work or, in extreme cases, with polyurethane foam, which is decorated with a neat strip.

For aesthetic reasons, it is optimal to attach a veranda made of a similar material to a wooden house built from timber or logs. For example, a veranda made of the same processed log with a diameter of at least 120 mm will look harmonious with a house made of rounded logs.

It is better to connect the walls of solid wood buildings through a tongue-and-groove connecting unit. To form it, a 50x50 mm block is nailed to the surface of the house, and a counter groove is selected at the ends of the logs or beams of the veranda walls. Free gaps are caulked or filled with sealant. This design of the interface unit makes it possible to achieve a fairly tight connection with good mobility in the vertical direction.

Roof

The material and design of the extension truss system depend on the choice of roofing material. As a rule, a veranda attached to a wooden house has the same roofing as the main structure. But certain deviations within the boundaries of various design solutions are also omitted. For example, a combination of a polycarbonate terrace roof with a house roof made of bitumen shingles, made in the same color scheme.

The veranda rafter system is assembled according to the following scheme. A mauerlat is installed along the perimeter of the frame, load-bearing supports (racks) or walls. For small, light verandas, this role can be played by the timber of the top trim. A beam is attached to the wall of the house - a purlin with a section of 100x80 mm. In the future, the upper part of the rafters will rest on it with a step depending on the weight of the roofing material, wind and snow load in the region. When calculating the roof structure, its slope and the width of the veranda are also taken into account.

The lower part of the rafter legs is installed on the mauerlat from the outside of the extension with an extension. For an open veranda, it should be at least 50-80 cm in order to protect its interior from rain jets.

A sheathing frame made of slats or timber is mounted along the rafters under metal tiles, metal profiles, ordinary slate or ondulin. For flexible materials, such as bitumen shingles, a continuous deck made of boards or OSB sheets is installed. If the project provides for insulation of the terrace, then also using a standard roofing system.

Protection of wooden structures of the house and veranda

Wood is very sensitive to moisture, so wooden verandas attached to the house require periodic treatment with special compounds. Hydrophobic antiseptic impregnations based on fluoride compounds and sodium silicofluoride are considered one of the most effective. Some of them contain pigments or can be pigmented directly in the store. Preparations with universal action may also contain an additional fire retardant component that reduces the flammability of wood.

IMPORTANT! Treating the wood of a house and terrace with similar means not only significantly increases the duration of its maintenance-free operation, but also gives it an attractive appearance.

Veranda structures on the lower side on pile or columnar foundations also need to be protected from negative natural influences. In addition to impregnating wooden elements with target compounds, it is additionally recommended to remove the entire top fertile layer of soil underneath them and fill the resulting pit with fine crushed stone. It will facilitate the rapid removal of moisture into the soil, which will slow down plant growth and the formation of fungal colonies.

A veranda is an extension to a house that shares a common wall with it. Building a veranda is a great opportunity to expand the living space in a dacha or country house without carrying out full-scale construction. In terms of design, it can be absolutely anything, the main thing is that it is in harmony with the main building, is comfortable, functionally corresponds to the tasks assigned to it, is liked by the owners of the cottage and arouses the envy of the neighbors.

As already mentioned, the design of the verandas can be absolutely anything, but the design can be quite different:

On a columnar, strip or pile foundation (making a monolith is expensive and difficult);
built-in or attached;
on a common foundation with the house or on a separate one;
under a common roof or under a separate one;
open or glazed;
insulated or summer version (without insulation, but with glazing);
with a frame made of different materials (wood, particleboard, aluminum, steel, and so on);
with different types of material for rough cladding;
with different types of front finish.

Obviously, the choice is incredibly large. But the most common and simplest option for constructing a veranda can be considered an attached veranda under a separate roof without insulation on a columnar foundation. If you do not plan to spend the night in such an extension in the winter and do not intend to build a bulky stove on it, this option is perfect for you. You can choose the type of internal and external cladding at your own discretion: siding, lining, boards, and so on.

Time frame for constructing a veranda on your own

If the veranda is relatively small (it is customary to make it the entire length of the wall of the house where there is a door) and with a low porch, then all the work can be done literally by two people in the shortest possible time. Most often, with a 4–6 hour working day, it takes only 4–5 days, plus some time for exterior and interior finishing. An assistant to the chief foreman will be required at the stage of laying heavy beams and at the stage of constructing the roof.

Calculation of a veranda for a country house

A veranda is a structure that requires approval and, accordingly, the preparation of design documentation. Only certified specialists can do this, so, most likely, it is they who will make you a project based on your sketch, on the basis of which you can calculate the necessary materials.

However, if you decide not to legalize your extension, you can do the calculations yourself. Most home craftsmen make do with an approximate diagram and try to obtain more accurate data only for the number of beams and roofing material - both of them most often have to be purchased and transported from afar, and everything else can usually be “obtained” somewhere nearby.

When designing a veranda, you need to take into account that most often the timber that will be used for the construction of vertical posts, for the lower and upper trim and for logs, has a length of 6 meters. So, in order not to make unnecessary cuts and not throw away unnecessary materials, it is worth choosing the appropriate dimensions of the veranda.

Total we need

Cement;
sand and water for solution;
brick (or ready-made concrete blocks, which are sold in construction stores) for installing foundation columns (every 1.5–2 meters);
timber 150×150 or 100×100;
edged board 40×100;
durable steel corners;
nails;
bitumen for foundation treatment;
waterproofing (roofing felt or durable polyethylene);
roofing material;
materials for external and internal cladding.

DIY veranda construction

After the rough calculations have been made and the material has been purchased, you can move on to the next stage - marking the area. It should be taken into account that the attached veranda will have a separate base from the main part of the cottage or dacha. And, since they have different bases and different weights, during the freezing and thawing of the soil, each of the structures will “float”, that is, rise and fall, completely according to its own physical laws. This means that if we try to “link” the veranda and the house, then sooner or later they will still move away from each other. Accordingly, we leave a gap of 5–10 centimeters between them, which we then close with a special strip.

Stage 1. Building the foundation for the veranda

After we have hammered pegs along the wall in those places where we will install pillars for the foundation, we can proceed directly to the excavation work. The markings must be taken very seriously: subsequently you will not have to level out defects by complex adjustment of the top trim and rafters. Marking pegs should be located on the outside of the veranda walls.

Under the pillars, we dig holes approximately 50–70 centimeters deep and make a “cushion” for the future foundation pillars: pour 15–20 centimeters of sand into the hole, moisten it and compact it. After the sand has dried, add crushed stone to a height of approximately 10 centimeters. We pour a liquid bitumen composition on top of it to provide the pillars with reliable waterproofing.

After our waterproofed “cushion” has hardened, you can proceed directly to laying the foundation pillars. They can be made from masonry or concrete foundation blocks. We make sure that the columns are the same in height: later we will not have to fight with leveling the floor on the veranda.

If there is a cavity inside the masonry, it needs to be filled with some kind of construction waste - broken bricks, crushed stone - and filled with bitumen. It is best to coat the outside of both blocks and bricks with bitumen - it will not be superfluous.

The height of the blocks or pillars should be such that after laying the bottom trim, joists and boards, the vertical height to the floor in the cottage or house is 25–30 centimeters. This is necessary because presumably the roof of the veranda will be lower than the roof of the house (if we want to combine them into a common structure), that is, the ceiling of the veranda will also be lower.

Important: after each stage, all new elements of a wooden structure must be treated with special antiseptics.

Stage 2. Making the base of the veranda

Now that we have the foundation pillars, we cover each of them with a piece of roofing felt for additional waterproofing. If it was not possible to line up the columns exactly horizontally, then later, before laying the joists or flooring, you will have to make special linings.

Now we put the lower trim, which will assemble our structure together. We place a beam on top of our covered waterproofing materials pillars, which we connect with a half-tree corner connection - this is the simplest option. To add additional rigidity to the structure, you can connect the corners with nails, but it would be optimal not to use metal, but to drill holes with a diameter of about 1.5 centimeters and drive spikes into them. Don’t forget to coat the level of the bottom trim with an antibacterial waterproofing agent for wood.

Stage 3. Making a frame for the veranda

In the corners of our veranda we hollow out or drill grooves for installing corner vertical posts. We install the racks, carefully checking that they are perfectly vertical. We reinforce the tongue-and-groove connection between the posts and the bottom trim with strong metal corners or brackets. Next, we install intermediate racks using the same principle. Usually they are placed at a distance of approximately 60 centimeters from one another - here everything depends solely on the wishes of the master and on the length of the material that will be used for the construction and cladding of the frame.

Important: do not forget to clearly check the distance between the vertical posts in the places where the window and door frames will be located: the frame must fit between two vertical posts.

By mounting the vertical posts, you can immediately make a window sill beam, which we will make from timber, connecting it to the vertical posts with a tenon connection. You can equip the window sill beam later, securing it with corners. After installing the vertical posts and connecting them with a transverse (window sill) beam, we once again check the strict verticality of the structure.

On top of the resulting structure of racks sticking up, we install the top frame - it will also be the Mauerlat on which the roof structure will rest. It is done according to the same principle as the lower harness.

Now we cut out incomplete (half or one-third) grooves for the floor joists in the lower frame, and incomplete grooves for the rafters in the upper frame. First, we place long beams along the wall of the house - the lower and upper purlins (the upper one is also called the beam) - on the lower and upper harness. We also cut out grooves in the purlins. We place floor joists (below) and rafters (above) across the purlins, fastening them either with a wooden spike (this is the most reliable) or with nails.

Stage 4. Staircase

Our design had to be elevated above the ground, and in order to be able to get to the veranda, it is recommended to purchase or make a staircase yourself. It can be a simple welded metal staircase, a wooden staircase on stringers, made of bricks, or poured concrete. It is only important to remember that the staircase should be independent of the house - it should be combined with the floor of the veranda only by the top, preferably a floating step. The staircase needs to be installed at this stage, so that then all the connection flaws (ugly joints, etc.) can be covered with floor boards.

Stage 5. Floor installation

The floor can be installed at this stage or later, when the roof frame is assembled, but it is more convenient to carry out construction work by walking not on the joists, but on a ready-made foundation. So it is recommended that right now you place an edged board across the joists and nail it to the beam with stainless steel nails. This can be a finished version of the floorboard or a rough one. Later, the rough boards can be covered with linoleum or another type of flooring.

Remark: how to make a warm floor in the veranda

If the veranda is not cold, but warm, then the procedure for constructing the floor will be slightly different:

1. Place the strapping on top of the foundation pillars.

2. We lay the purlin (if it is needed, and it is needed if the length of the board is not enough, which we will lay in the next step) so that the upper level of the purlin beam coincides with the upper level of the strapping beam (this can be easily achieved if you use the connection of the beams “in half a tree").

3. We stuff boards on top of the purlin and strapping.

4. We lay waterproofing material on top of them.

5. We lay logs on top of the waterproofing without any cutting. You can also make a cutting, and bend the waterproofing material into the resulting grooves and press them down with lags. We connect the logs with the second bottom trim (sometimes called the second crown).

6. Place thermal insulation material in the resulting niches. This can be expanded clay, slab or roll insulation.

7. We fill boards on top of the joists - this will be the finishing or rough floor of our veranda.

Stage 6. Roof installation

We already have a mauerlat or top trim and a central girder (aka a bench). Now you need to install racks on the side of the wall of the house, so that later you get a pitched roof. First we set up the corner posts, then the intermediate ones. We connect the racks from above with a ridge girder, making sure that all racks are the same height.

Now we place the rafters with support on one side on the wall posts, on the other side on the Mauerlat (aka the top frame). You can lay the rafters with hollowing “half a tree”, or without - just attach them with corners or staples. Do not forget that our roof must have an overhang from the entrance to the veranda, as well as a small allowance from the side of the house wall so that rain and melt water does not flow down the back wall of the veranda. In addition, do not forget that it would also be a good idea to make a canopy over the stairs, at least over the top few steps.

Important: this article describes a highly simplified rafter system, which, however, is often used in the construction of summer houses, verandas, and gazebos. However, during work, especially if the veranda is very spacious, it may be necessary to install additional elements: struts (supports the angle between the rafters and the post), intermediate posts (also called legs or chairs), purlins and tie rods (connect additional intermediate posts) and other elements, which will reduce the pressure of the roofing pie and rafters on the posts and trim, and also maintain the clarity of the corners of the structure.

On top of the rafters we attach a waterproofing material, which is secured with self-tapping screws. We fill counter-lattice boards along the rafters. They will play a double role: they will press the waterproofing harder and create a space between the finishing roofing material and the insulation, eliminating the possibility of rotting of the sheathing and rafters.

Next comes a layer of lathing, which is placed across the rafters and, accordingly, the counter-lattice. The final stage is fixing the roofing material and covering the sides of the resulting gables with a suitable material (most likely the same one that will be used to cover the walls of the veranda).

Further, if you have a warm veranda, all work is done from the inside of the house. You need to fasten the insulation between the rafters (can be nailed to the rafters), cover it with a vapor barrier layer (can also be nailed), and then lay the lathing of the ceiling system on top. It can be a rough version or immediately a final version for subsequent finishing.

Stage 7. Installation of doors and windows

If you will have a covered porch rather than an open one, now is the time to install door and window frames. We fix the boxes using self-tapping screws or nails. We fill the voids with polyurethane foam. During the outer cladding of the walls, it is better to remove the sashes (unless, of course, you have double-glazed windows) so that they do not suffer from vibrations when struck with a hammer or during operation of a screwdriver.

Stage 8. Sheathing the outside walls of the veranda

The material for the cladding and, accordingly, the method of its fastening are chosen by the owners of the house at their own request. The main thing when installing the outer covering is not to forget about the waterproofing layer, which is attached to the counter-lattice attached to the vertical posts. Insulation and vapor barrier are installed from the inside, similar to the roof. You can leave the veranda open by building only a high fence.

Verandas are one of the most popular types of extensions, allowing to increase both the functionality and attractiveness of a private home. The “bare” front door looks lonely, and the porch, although decorative, is inferior to the veranda in practicality. Therefore, this design, useful in all respects, is deservedly popular among summer residents, and members of the FORUMHOUSE portal are no exception.

• What is a veranda
• Constructive
• Selection of wall material
• Frame veranda in a private house
• Glazing of verandas
• Interior decoration

What is a veranda

A veranda is an unheated room of an open or closed type, which can be built-in or attached to the house. Verandas are confused with terraces; these concepts have a lot in common, but a terrace is an open deck that can be adjacent to the house or located at a distance. The terrace may not have a roof, while this is mandatory for the veranda. Although open verandas are also made, with low permeable barriers around the entire perimeter, most often this is an enclosed space with a large proportion of glazing.

This design can be used at any time of the year, unlike an open one, and at the request of the owners it turns into a dining room, a living room, or a bedroom.

That is, the cost of its construction is less than for a full-fledged room, and the benefits are even greater - in the summer, the veranda will also be a gazebo in which it is pleasant to relax in the fresh air.

Constructive

The built-in veranda is built together with the house, on a common foundation and under a common roof; it is laid at the design stage. But this option is less common than an extension veranda: the need for improvements arises already in the process of developing the house, and the funds may only be enough for the main structure. The attached veranda is built on a separate, not connected to the common foundation, has its own rafter system and can be built during any period of operation. A separate foundation is more practical for two reasons:

• A lightweight veranda will exert less load, so parts of the foundation will “walk” differently, under the influence of heaving forces, which will result in deformation or breaking of the connection;
• You can choose a lightweight base for the veranda. And since different types of foundations are not combined, it is easier to do separately than to spend money on a slab or deep strip.

Depending on the type and age of a private house, the veranda is attached either close to the facade, without connecting it to it, or a “floating” connection is made using tongue-and-groove systems or special fasteners that allow slight changes in the position of the structure. This is due to possible soil movements and shrinkage of the house itself - rigid connections can be “broken.”

Learn more about how to connect extensions - this article will help you choose the best option.

The shape of the veranda is selected based on the area they want to obtain and in accordance with the architecture of the house, so that the remodel will decorate it and not spoil the whole look.

The location of the extension is directly related to the entrance - the veranda must be accessible from the house, and not just from the street. If there is a second floor and a balcony, a veranda that duplicates its shape looks better. Considering that current architecture provides for private houses of any configuration, verandas can now be found even round, even square, or polygonal. The simplest and most popular are rectangular, along one wall or part of it. More complex, but also more decorative - the letter “G”, going around the corner of the house. Even more interesting, but more difficult to install and less common - along the entire perimeter of the facade.

The width and length of the building is limited, again, by the need for additional space, finances and visual compliance, but building a veranda already 2.5-3 meters is impractical.

When deciding on the size, do not forget about the proportions - a small extension will look funny against the backdrop of the mansion, and a modest house will be lost behind the massive veranda.

The roofs of the extensions are usually pitched, sloping, so that snow melts well. The greater the expected snow load, the steeper the angle should be. This is especially true for buildings on which snow will accumulate from the slope of the roof of the house. If you don’t take this factor into account, and the dacha is for seasonal living, and the snow is cleared according to the principle “it will melt in the spring,” then instead of a pleasant weekend after the first warm weather, you can get a “folded” veranda and bonus dismantling.

Selection of wall material

When choosing a building material, pay attention to the combination of the extension and the house. If in the future everything is covered with siding or other cladding, what difference does it make what’s inside. If the facade is brick, and cladding is not expected, then it is unlikely that it will be decorated with an extension made of aerated block or a frame in a shell made of siding. As an option, a wooden extension with decorative elements; wood is universal and looks organic with all bases. Roofing material, ideally, should be the same as on the roof of the house. If for some reason this is not possible - as close as possible.

Frame veranda in a private house

Due to the relative simplicity of the design, financial accessibility and speed of DIY construction, frame verandas on a block or columnar foundation are especially popular among private owners. It is convenient that the frame can be sheathed with any imitation in the general style. Portal member Gerasimm replaced the old porch with a separate frame veranda, not connected to the facade.

Gerasimm User FORUMHOUSE

Over the years, the porch rotted and we had to worry about installing an attached veranda. Size 5x2.5 meters. Frame, siding, three windows 2x1.2 meters. The veranda was built close to the house, without connection.

As a foundation - 40x20x20 cm blocks placed on tiles, floor lining made of 100x100 mm timber, crossbars made of 100x50 mm boards, with fastening with mortise and corners. The frame is made of the same board, with jibs on all sides of the walls, the rafter system is placed under the overhang of the roof of the house in such a way that after laying the roofing it will be close to the soffit.

I liked the frame design and na4alnik75.

na4alnik75 User FORUMHOUSE

My mother-in-law had been asking for a long time to restore (or replace) the porch of the country house, so we decided not to be content with little and add an L-shaped veranda to the country house. 100x100 mm timber will be used for the posts, 150x40 mm and 150x25 mm boards will be used for the joists and rafters, and 100x25 mm boards will be used for the sheathing.

The foundation is columnar, instead of the bottom frame na4alnik75 I decided to use special U-shaped anchors, concreted into columns, homemade columns - roofing felt formwork, mortar, reinforcement. A nine-liter plastic jar, which gave the required 20 cm in diameter, helped speed up the process of creating a form from roofing felt, and the template was convenient to remove using a handle. Use adhesive tape as a fastener so that it holds, the place of the ligament is cleaned of powder and degreased.

Glazing of verandas

Enclosed verandas are provided with glazing; it can be zonal or continuous - panoramic windows are mounted between the frame posts. Glazing occupies most of the three walls, which makes it possible to use the veranda all year round. Modern plastic windows can be ordered with any desired dimensions, so there are no problems with non-standard sizes. The door can also be glass - regular or sliding, covering the entire opening; windows can also be hinged or sliding; these systems are relevant for large, panoramic glazing. With standard, zonal glazing, the windows are placed at a height of 50-60 cm from the finished floor, adjacent frames are placed through a blind stand if they are in a row.

A kind of hybrid of an open and closed veranda will be obtained if, instead of ordinary windows, “soft” stretch fabrics made of special PVC are used.

They are mounted to the top of the frame; during bad weather or cold seasons, the canvas is pulled, completely covering the openings. When stretched, the film becomes absolutely transparent and does not become cloudy over time, therefore it does not spoil the appearance of the structure and protects from rain, wind and snow. For the summer, the canvas is removed or rolled up in a roll to be used if necessary. The participants of our portal have such verandas - they are as airy and protected as possible, and they cost much less than panoramic glazing. By the way, our craftsmen found an opportunity to improve the design here too.

Justas User FORUMHOUSE

I have been using soft windows for about two years and am satisfied, I ordered them in Moscow, according to my own sketch. The only thing that had to be changed was that the rigid fasteners (eyelets) on the sides and bottom sides of the canvases were removed from the walls, and the fasteners were made with clutch pedal springs from a car shop. Otherwise, in the summer it would dangle, and in the winter it would stretch to the point of rupture due to the high coefficient of thermal expansion. In the summer I simply roll up the canvas; on rainy days, if there are a lot of guests, I roll it out.

Another alternative is to “glaze” with cellular polycarbonate; it is also cheaper, can be movable or stationary, but is significantly inferior to both windows and tensioned fabrics in terms of transparency. Yes, and it will not look good with every design, but for many it becomes the optimal option for finishing a building, taking into account the price-quality ratio.

Interior decoration

Various materials are used to decorate the verandas of buildings, but wood is the most widely used - clapboard is used to hem the ceiling, and to line the walls, both inside and outside. If funds do not allow, they use various typesetting panels (MDF, plastic), as well as imitations - under timber or under lining, which are highly functional. When choosing interior decoration, you should take into account that even a closed veranda is not heated, and there will be significant changes in temperature and humidity. And if we are talking about an open structure, then even more so, all the finishing will be subject to increased wear and tear due to precipitation. Therefore, it is worth giving preference not to the decorative nature of materials, but to their resistance to the intended operating conditions. It is recommended to use a special decking board as a floor covering; an ordinary one, even treated with layers of protective compounds, will constantly require updating.

Conclusion

It is quite possible to build the simplest frame structure of small dimensions on your own - there is a whole lot on our portal to help. If you want something more complicated, but are not confident in your abilities, you can find worthy performers on. The veranda is a useful extension that will become a favorite gathering place for household members and a springboard for gatherings with friends. And the closed veranda also combines the functions of a summer gazebo and an additional, universal room and is indispensable in the event of the arrival of unexpected summer guests. Our video will be useful to you if you like the veranda made of pox.

If a closed veranda is not enough, and you want to sit by the fire away from the house, you can build Households will love it, where it is so nice to relax after the righteous labors in the field of agriculture. In the video about a guest house with a barbecue veranda you can see interesting design ideas.

Arranging terraces next to the house is considered by many people as a very attractive design solution. But, as with any type of construction work, there are subtleties that must be taken into account. If you do this, building a great-looking structure turns out to be quite simple and accessible to almost anyone who knows how to work with tools. It is not necessary to invite professional builders for this.

Types of structures

Strictly speaking, terraces are only open (this is the interpretation given in SNiP), and all closed extensions to houses, no matter how they look externally, should be called verandas. The semi-open type - without walls or equipped with low walls - has sufficient space, and a roof or canopy will help to avoid the effects of precipitation and sunlight. But all the same, the furniture will have to be placed as far as possible from open areas.

A pergola-style terrace is ideal for dry areas, and it is not at all necessary that the structure be covered with vine shoots. After all, metal gratings with dense weaving are considered self-sufficient and allow you to decorate the space both from above and from the edges. Provides simultaneous closure from outside observation in harmonious sunlight.

When you want to get the visual effect of graceful leaves, but don't wait until the pergola is covered in vines and don't care for them, you need to reproduce the appearance through carving. But you can make the external grille very rare, only hinting at the developers’ intentions. An exotic variety is a terrace on the roof. This is much more spacious than a simple balcony, and a supporting wall is almost never used, only a fence. There will be no talk about this option, but it is worth considering its existence.

The wooden type of terraces is actually not the same. Differences may appear in the size, shape, number of levels of the structure, the possibility of free access to the structure or fencing it with decorative plantings.

Project: dimensions and shape

The selection of size and configuration is determined by the size of the plot and the house built on it. Tiny terraces adjacent to a large building are perceived as aesthetically unnatural. Extension less than 4 sq.m. m is uncomfortable, and no methods will help correct the situation. The project should include a minimum consumption of concrete and ceramic slabs, as this will reduce the labor intensity of the work. It is best to make terraces rectangular in order to combine the lines of the buildings with each other.

Important: tiles are better laid on a rectangular terrace, and wooden flooring allows you to vary a variety of shapes through the use of electric jigsaws. But again, it is necessary to maintain visual consistency between the configuration of the extension and the main part of the house.

Terraces with barbecues are considered one of the best design solutions. It should be taken into account that stoves can be very heavy and large structures, which is why it is necessary to build a foundation, possibly for the terrace as a whole. We will also have to make a good, uninterrupted drainage system. The work associated with its arrangement is quite labor-intensive and can significantly increase the overall cost of construction. The screed must be reinforced, and the foundation must be strictly in the form of a monolithic slab.

The grillage is not made of concrete; this type of structure would be unnecessarily difficult to work with. Usually it is made either from a channel, which is connected to the piles by electric welding, or from a beam encircling the perimeter and axes of the supports. In a spacious terrace, it is best to place the stove in the center, using it to distribute the space into the guest and kitchen areas. It is quite common to install a barbecue on one side and a semicircular structure cutting off the selected corner.

Frame construction can be made from either wood or metal.

The choice of a specific material is determined by the following factors:

• convenience and practice of work;
• allocated budget;
• the required strength of the extension.

Even the high cost and difficulty of processing hard wood does not in any way negate its high strength and stable service over time. It is from such materials that the lower frame trims should be formed. To save money, their upper part is made from softer and more accessible breeds. It is unacceptable to use wood that has even the slightest signs of rotting, cracking, chips, wormholes and similar defects. The highest permitted moisture content of wood for constructing a frame is 14%, but it is better to limit it to 12%, it will be much more reliable.

The metal frame produced by welding is relatively durable. But one must take into account the fact that dismantling its individual parts will be impossible; the entire structure will need to be removed as a whole. The minimum permissible cross-section of round and profile pipes is 0.25 cm. If you take a thinner structure, welding work will be more difficult, and due to the increased stress in the metal, significant deformations may appear. Before using a used metal block, be sure to check it for any significant damage.

A terrace with a balcony always has an external fence and is quite narrow. When you need to attach a support beam to a brick structure, you will need to prepare connection points: holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels or wood plugs are mounted.

Important: placing holes with a slight slope from top to bottom helps increase the reliability of fastening, the same requirement is recommended when working with a wooden base. Often the beams for support are shortened by the width of one log at both ends, after which they are adjusted to the ends and attached with bolts, and the connection between the intermediate links is provided by hangers.

Anchor bolts help connect the timber and brick walls; special supports, the cross-section of which is 5x15 cm, can increase the reliability of such a structure. The distance between the supports should be 120 cm, and their use is especially important in areas where there is a lot of precipitation. Holes in the timber are made in increments of 400 to 600 mm; bolts with a diameter of 1 cm should pass through them freely.

Terraces made of foam blocks are much easier to build than using wood or brick, because the labor intensity of work is noticeably reduced. Products initially have correct geometric contours and strict dimensions, which allows you to accurately calculate the need for material and design the structure without errors. Structures based on foam concrete are for the most part created on top of strip foundations, but when the house is initially planned to be supplemented with a terrace, it is necessary to prepare a common slab base of the required configuration.

Legalization of the extension

Making a terrace at your dacha is technically quite simple, but regardless of the skill of the home craftsmen or the cost of the services of hired builders, you will need to register the construction with the authorities. It is impossible to do without submitting documents to the structures responsible for fire safety, sanitary and epidemiological control. The permissions received from them are transferred to the administration of the locality or rural settlement. The expenditure of time, effort and money on registration is not in vain, because in the future, its absence may lead to sanctions, including the demolition of the building. And even if this does not happen, selling, leasing, exchanging, or providing collateral for a loan will be impossible or difficult.

Tools and materials

It is imperative to use various kinds of tools during construction.

Each master has an individual set of them, but it is impossible to build a terrace without using:

• electric jigsaw;
• bayonet shovel;
• building level;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• chisels and screwdrivers;
• drill and marker;
• staples and paint brushes.

As for materials, you will need to use high-quality boards, cement at least M400, an antiseptic, steel blanks for structures and paint and varnish materials. A wooden terrace is relatively strong and extremely reliable, guarantees comfort and looks more attractive. In addition, construction work will proceed quickly, and costs will be significantly lower. Bricks, concrete and natural stone are much harder, but their design capabilities are worse; it will not be possible to realize a certain part of the design plans at all. The use of metal (steel and cast iron parts) allows you to create very elegant designs and decorative elements, but you will have to come to terms with increased costs.

A metal terrace will be especially expensive for those who do not know how to work with such materials on their own - and welding skills are not as common as carpentry skills, and the situation with tools is similar. The most modern options, such as wood-polymer composites, are processed more simply than traditional products, and the original PVC coating makes it possible to do without impregnations that protect against rotting. The most economical option is to use the elements left over from the construction or renovation of a house, but you will need to carefully check them for the absence of deformations and for protection from negative natural phenomena.

Step-by-step construction instructions

Properly attaching a terrace to a house means meeting two key requirements: eliminating the deflection and spring effect of the floor, and also ensuring the strength and safety of the mounted railings. It is recommended to provide for the construction of an extension already at the stage of designing a home, then it will be possible to use a common foundation and coordinate the installation of different parts with each other as clearly as possible. But when the terrace is built after finishing work on the house, you will have to order an individual project from professionals.

When building a terrace with your own hands, you need to consider:

• climatic characteristics of the area;
• soil type and freezing depth in winter;
• average annual level of snow cover;
• the type and physical condition of the wall to which the building will adjoin;
• required area and linear dimensions;
• building materials planned for use.

All this data must be immediately stated in the application for designers. Usually the terrace is placed near the wall in which the entrance is located, thanks to which it is possible to use the building not only for leisure, but also as an entrance hall and as a porch. In cold areas, it is recommended to install all extensions in the south and equip them with wide canopies. Where it is relatively warm, it is advisable to place terraces from the east or south, focusing on maximum shading of the place. The prevailing winds must be taken into account, especially if they are strong.

In any case, install waterproofing above the support beam to prevent penetration of various precipitation into the gap between the terrace and the house. Aprons made of aluminum or steel with an external galvanic coating are often used. The foundation is waterproofed with bitumen mastic or adhesive material (laid in a couple of rows). To the question of how exactly to insulate a terrace, the answer is very simple: in no way, the structure will not be heated anyway. After making the racks and rafters and installing them, it is necessary to sheathe such structures using boards or sanded slabs.

The voids separating the opposite edges are saturated with sawdust. But long before the construction of the rafters, it is necessary to deal with the base of the terrace - there is also a lot of interesting things here.

Foundation

The construction of the foundation in most cases involves the use of concrete blocks with dimensions of 0.3x0.3 m, which are buried ½ of the height into solid solid soil. Typically, the parts are placed on a sand bed so that the edge protrudes upward by 150 mm. Then parts of the frame will not rot due to contact with consistently moist soil.

Important: concrete blocks cast in artisanal conditions can replace factory products only in warm areas where there is no freezing of the soil, or it is weakly expressed. A pile foundation turns out to be the optimal and most economical solution in the middle zone on top of heaving soil.

When choosing a design, they are guided primarily by the rigidity and stability of the structure as a whole, as well as the correspondence of the foundation under the terrace and under the main house; if it is not provided, buildings may begin to deform. Racks (that is, pillars) are prepared in advance, with the help of which the load created by the terrace will be distributed evenly on the plane of the foundation. For the most part, such elements are given a cross-section of 10x10 cm, although for a large structure it will be necessary to increase the size of the supports.

Important: the racks must be attached to the foundation using brackets, since pouring concrete will lead to rapid rotting.

The racks can be made in two versions: in one they support the beams, in the other they pass through the flooring, forming fences or benches. Placing the beams on the posts can be a simple overlay or attachment using screws (bolts). The beams are aligned horizontally; if necessary, shims are used for leveling. In cases where it is planned to use not a flooring, but a solid structure made of wood, you need to give it a slight slope in the direction from the house (about 1%). By increasing the cross-section of the beams, you can make the span between the individual racks larger, that is, save on the number of blocks in the base.

For the manufacture of logs, boards measuring 5x15 cm are most often used., lay the logs at right angles with a gap of 40, 60, 80 or 120 cm - this depends on how thick the flooring will be created. The use of screw piles, grillage piles or a pile-monolithic structure is required when there is a body of water in the immediate vicinity of the construction site.

Flooring

When constructing the flooring, the logs should not be visible, but they should still be placed in advance at the same distance and strictly parallel. Then it will be easier to attach the railing later. Depending on the placement of the joists, it is possible to ensure an even and neat arrangement of the connecting screws. Or it fails - if the work was approached unprofessionally. The logs are attached using screws (bolts) to the support beam near the walls.

This beam is positioned so that a gap of 3 cm is maintained from the top point of the flooring to the base of the door opening. Then precipitation will not enter the room through the threshold. To secure the logs, it is necessary to use metal hangers in the shape of the Latin letter U. This is stiffer and more reliable than a connection made from screws and nails. In the event of the slightest damage or shift, momentary savings will result in significant losses; All professionals consider the use of support strips to be the worst method of installation.

When making a frame, most often the beams are attached to high posts passed through the boardwalks (since a completely finished railing post is immediately created). For a span of 180 cm, beams with a section of 10x15 cm are recommended, and for a larger size of 240 cm, this figure must be increased to 10x20 cm.

There are many ways to increase the usable area of ​​a private home. One of them is a veranda attached to the house. It can perform different functions: areas for summer recreation, dining room or kitchen, winter garden. As a rule, such premises are made unheated, but there may be other options - it all depends on the chosen project.

Differences between veranda and terrace

Even experienced builders get confused with the terminology. It is believed that a terrace is an open area with a roof on supports, most often a walk-through area. A veranda at a dacha, in their opinion, is a closed structure on a common foundation with the house.

Designers do not agree with these definitions. They believe that the veranda can be partially open, for example, without a wall on one side. The foundation can be built separately from the house. There is no need to partially erect a roof on the building so that you can sunbathe comfortably. Terraces, in their opinion, are not being built at all now.

Types of extensions

Most types of extensions to private houses are called verandas by designers. Conventionally, they can be divided into three groups:

• glazed;
• open;
• closed.

Combinations of buildings by type are acceptable. For example, partial glazing combined with an open wall. This option can only be used in the warm season. If you plan to relax there in winter, then choose a glazed or closed option.

Consider in advance whether it will be convenient for you to cross the extension every time you go into the house. If you do not want to do this or are going to leave children in the extension, then it is best to make the room with only one entrance - through the house.

Advantages and disadvantages of open-type buildings

The easiest way to add a veranda to the house is if you have chosen an open type design. For it you do not have to build a complex foundation or waste time on cladding. It will be easy to keep this room clean - you just need to sweep the floor regularly. Such buildings are chosen by those who like to spend time outdoors. They are used as a summer dining room and outdoor recreation.

A serious disadvantage of open extensions is their unsuitability for use in winter. The possibility of installing furniture in these rooms is significantly limited. For example, you should not leave soft chairs, poufs or sofas in open areas of the house. The first heavy rain will render them unusable.

You should only use wicker, plastic or wooden models. If you feel uncomfortable sitting on hard chairs, you can use soft pillows that you sew yourself. They should be placed in covers or pillowcases made of oilcloth material.

When constructing an open room, a frame installation method is used without glazing and wall cladding. This veranda can be used as a summer gazebo.

We are building a veranda

What do you need to find out before preparing a project?

Before you start choosing a form, you need to decide on the following points:

• choose the wall with which the building will border;
• decide what type of veranda you will build;
• determine the location of the entrance;
• choose material;
• calculate the amount of materials needed and their cost.

If the extension is closed or glazed, then it is necessary to decide how it will be ventilated. Otherwise, on a hot day you will not be able to stand on it - it will turn into a large greenhouse. A way out of the situation may be to install removable frames or opening doors, which can easily turn a closed structure into a ventilated one.

Those who live in the house all year round should choose only dense materials for construction, which must be installed without cracks or gaps. Glazed parts should be made of double bags to retain heat.

Choose materials that will harmoniously fit into the architectural style of the house. The veranda should not be in dissonance with the main structure in color and style.

Materials and features of their use

Most often there are wooden versions of the veranda attached to the house, made of timber. Wood has many positive qualities: the structure is inexpensive, installation is easy, and there is no need to carry out complex work.

If wood is expensive in your area, you can install metal structures with glazing or polycarbonate cladding. The same options are worth choosing if you plan to grow seedlings in the outbuilding in the spring or arrange a winter garden in it. Floor-to-ceiling glazing is suitable for those who have created a landscape design that is pleasant to look at in any season. In this case, the frame is assembled from channels, profile pipes or corners.

To ensure that the architecture of the veranda attached to the house coincides with the main building, its walls can be built from brick, rubble stone, shell rock or foam blocks. For summer options, walls half a brick thick are sufficient. For all-season structures it is necessary to make them three times thicker.

Project approval

An important stage in the construction of a veranda attached to a house is the approval of the project. Even on a plot that belongs to you, you cannot rebuild a house as you wish. Redevelopment at a dacha may not be approved, but in a private residential building it is worth going through this procedure. You will need to submit to the BTI:

• land ownership certificate;
• project of a house with an extension;
• consent of everyone registered in the home;
• application with a request to formalize the construction with changed parameters.

If this is not done, the design may be considered illegal. Submit documents in advance, preferably 3 months before the start of construction. Most people who are faced with the procedure for re-registration of a building claim that the BTI takes a very long time to prepare the permit.

Problems with illegal redevelopment most often arise if you connect the building to central heating, decide to sell the cottage, rent it out or inherit it. The extension may be demolished at the request of regulatory authorities. It will be difficult to legalize it after commissioning; it will require investment of funds and effort.

How to prepare?

Before construction begins, you need to purchase materials, collect the necessary tools and prepare the site, which will be located near one of the walls of the house. To do this you will need to do:

• remove the visor, if any;
• dismantle the porch (in case of construction of a passage room);
• uproot bushes and trees;
• remove trash;
• remove sod;
• prepare a place for storing building materials.

The necessary materials should be located close to the construction site, but they must be protected from the possibility of precipitation. It is best to place the materials in one of the utility rooms or in the hallway of a residential building. Consider how you will remove construction waste from the site and where you will store it.

Before starting construction, process all necessary materials. Coat the metal with an anti-corrosion compound, and the timber with fire-resistant varnish. Previously, the necessary recesses can be applied to the wood for the construction of the roof.

Making the foundation

In order not to load the foundation of the house, you can build a columnar foundation. It is not suitable for all types of verandas. If the room has a large area or is made of brick, then it is worth using a different type of foundation, for example, a strip foundation.

If you have recently built a house yourself, then you most likely have already had a soil test done. Otherwise, it is advisable to contact specialists who will carry out this procedure. Before choosing a foundation type, you need to consider the following factors:

• freezing depth;
• soil composition (how quickly it absorbs moisture);
• uniformity;
• depth of groundwater;
• soil mobility.

Once you have decided which foundation you will use, you can begin building it. Here are instructions on how to build a columnar foundation step by step.

Work on its construction begins with digging holes at least a meter deep. For a small building, 4 support points are enough. If you plan to build a spacious version, then you need to erect several additional pillars. The depth of the holes may be different, use the foundation of the house as a guide.

The next step is to build a cushion of sand and crushed stone. To do this, you can fill the bottom of the hole with a mixture of these materials or first lay a layer of sand and then crushed stone. After this, the pillars are installed and the concrete base is poured. Depending on the type of veranda, the pillars may be made of asbestos, metal, brick or timber. The top of the pillars should be flush with the foundation of the house. You will install the main structure on them. To strengthen the pillar, the place where it is installed is filled with sand.

The structure of a strip foundation differs in that to fill it, it is necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter and build formwork. The strongest foundation will be the one with reinforcement placed inside it. In order for the concrete to gain the greatest strength, after it has pre-hardened, remove the formwork and cover the base with a rag. The cloth must be moistened several times a day to ensure the concrete is ready in a humid environment.

Assembling a timber frame

Since timber verandas attached to the house are the most common, we will further describe the construction using their example. First, the lower crown of the veranda is formed. To make it monolithic, it is necessary to use cuts. One of the strongest connections is the dovetail. In appearance, it resembles the fastening parts of children's puzzles.

Using timber you need to make the bottom trim. The parts of the harness are attached to each other not only by cuts. Additionally, strengthen the joints with long screws, dowels or nails. This will make the structure more resistant to deformation.

The double system makes the structure as durable as possible. This is important, because floor joists and racks will be located on it.

Next you need to install the vertical posts. For a pitched roof, it is necessary to mount supports higher against the wall than on the opposite side. Racks must be used to mark corners and form door and window openings. In places where there will be windows, it is necessary to place horizontal bars. They will become the basis for the window sills. To make this frame, you can use timber with a section of 120x80 or 100x100. Between the supports you need to take a step of 50-60 centimeters.

If your veranda is open with your own hands, then a beam equal to the height of the ceiling of the room is installed only in the corners. In the rest of the frame, small supports can be installed. They must be equal to the height of the fence. The vertical posts can be secured using steel corners or the method of complete or partial cutting. If you use key cutting, you must additionally hammer dowels or nails into the joints.

If you are constructing the casing, you can build jibs for additional rigidity - these are small bars that connect the horizontal and vertical posts. The same braces are installed at the top of the trim. Its installation will be completed by the frame you created.

Features of arranging the roof of a building

First you will need to build a rafter system. If you have chosen a pitched roof, then it is extremely simple to build the rafter system - you need to connect the edge of the frame near the wall with the opposite one. When installing the racks, the slope was already included, which significantly reduces installation time.

A shed roof is not only easy to build, but it is much easier to install drainage on it. With the correct choice of slope, snow and precipitation will easily drain from the roof.

Less often, the veranda at the dacha is equipped with a gable roof. This option is chosen if it is made through passage. Most often, gable options are installed above terraces. When installing it, it is important to maintain the correct angles of inclination. They usually follow the corners of the house's roof.

The phased construction of the rafter system is as follows:

DIY floor construction

The easiest way to build a floor covering is from boards that are attached to each other using the tongue-and-groove method. If you choose an open-type summer veranda, it is recommended to install floor joists at a slight slope. This will allow rainwater to roll off it. But the best choice would be to install a concrete pad, the final finishing of which can be done with tiles.

If you have chosen floorboards, then installation begins from the corner furthest from the entrance. It is attached with self-tapping screws to the joists. The length of the fastener should be twice the thickness of the floorboard. To compensate for the expansion of wood due to moisture or increased temperature, lay the flooring away from the wall, maintaining a distance of 1 to 1.5 centimeters.

You can extend the service life and improve the aesthetic qualities of flooring using modern coatings. This can be varnish, “liquid plastic”, paint. To imitate the noble shade of wood, you can apply a stain to the boards, which is secured with a layer of varnish. Epoxy varnish (designed for yachts) is the most resistant to moisture and damage.

Finishing and glazing

After the floor is made, the frame of the building is sheathed. If necessary, insulation is installed in the walls. If the veranda to the house is made of wood, then after covering it needs to be given time to settle. The only exception is construction from material that has undergone chamber drying, but the cost of processed wood is several times higher.

Only after the timber has gone through shrinkage can finishing work begin. The design of the veranda depends only on your imagination. If this is an open option, then it is enough to cover the sheathing with stain and varnish. Closed buildings can be lined with clapboard from the inside and coated with a colorless compound.

Now you know how to attach a veranda to your house. This work is comparable to building a bathhouse or any other utility room. If you carefully prepare the project and follow it, then you will not encounter any difficulties during construction. Those who want to use the premises this year are adding polycarbonate structures.

They do not require shrinkage. In this case, the frame can be a profiled pipe, and the floor can be erected according to the above algorithm. Glazed verandas can also be made on metal profiles. It is best to invite professionals to install them. In this case, the installation of double-glazed windows will be done with better quality.