Door width with frame 90. Standard sizes of interior doors. Door purpose depending on size

There are a huge number of door designs for interior rooms in an apartment or cottage in terms of design, material of manufacture and opening mechanisms. Moreover, most of them are made according to GOST standards for interior doors. This greatly simplifies their selection and installation. You can, of course, install a model with non-standard dimensions in your home. However, such a product will cost more than a standard version made according to GOST.

GOST requirements for standard doorways

The dimensions of the interior door (door block) must strictly correspond to the dimensions of the opening in the wall between the rooms. In fact, it is the opening parameters that are prescribed in construction standards and GOSTs. And in accordance with them, you already have to select the thickness and width with height for the door frame and the door leaf inside.

If you are creating a unique designer interior in a private house, then the doors to the rooms can be made whatever you want. It is only necessary, at the project preparation stage, to provide openings in the partitions and load-bearing walls of the required sizes. But then door products will have to be ordered according to individual parameters for more money than standard options.

When creating an exclusive interior, do not forget that a door can complement the style if you approach the issue correctly

With city apartments the situation is fundamentally different. All of them are built according to standard design solutions, in which openings for interior doors are initially laid out to standard sizes. And in the vast majority of cases, expanding this hole is prohibited. Here it remains to select the door design only according to existing realities. And knowing the requirements of GOST, choosing a door in a store will be simpler and more error-free.

What is the door structure made of?

Marking of interior doors

When choosing an electric generator or a submersible pump for dirty water, you have to carefully study many parameters in the data sheet for this equipment. The power of the unit, productivity, and other quantities are important there. With an internal door everything is much simpler. The accompanying documentation indicates a set of numbers and letters that fully describe the width and height, as well as the design features of the product.
Based on their design and method of opening, door blocks are divided into several main types:

1. “G” is a blank wooden panel.
2. “O” – canvas with glass insert.
3. “Rp” or “Rl” – right or left swing door.
4. “K” or “P” – swinging or sliding structure.

Design options for interior doors

In addition to these letters, the marking also indicates:

• type of product - door block for the entrance to the apartment (“DV”), interior (“DM”) and for the bathroom (“DS”);
• width and height of the opening - two figures in decimeters;
• number of canvases in the block;
• class of air permeability (“B1”, “B2” or “B3”) and strength (“Md1”, “Md2”, “Md3” or “Md4”);
• designation of the standard “GOST 475–2016” (introduced to replace the old GOST 6629-88).

The above standard contains a table that lists the standard sizes of interior doors. More precisely, the reference dimensions of openings in walls and partitions are indicated there. It is these standard sizes that door block manufacturers start from. According to them, the height of the opening can be 1870, 2070 or 2370 mm, and the width from 710 to 1950 mm.

Dimensions and thickness of the canvas

The width and height of the door leaf are usually made 70 mm smaller than the dimensions of the door along the outer perimeter. 30–35 mm on each side goes to the box (frame). But there may be other options that are far from these standard values. Manufacturers are free to choose the dimensions of the product parts themselves in accordance with the design and materials from which it is made.

• for the kitchen – 70 cm;
• for the bedroom and other rooms – 80 cm;
• for the living room - double-leaf model 120 cm;
• for the bathroom – 60 cm.

Typical sizes of interior doors for different rooms

The standard height in all cases is assumed to be within the range of 1800–2000 mm, and the thickness of the canvas is 30–40 mm. At the same time, it is recommended to install doors in a bathroom or bathroom that are a little thicker and with a more moisture-resistant coating than in ordinary rooms.

How to correctly measure the height of doors with a threshold

Standard box sizes

The width of the box should ideally completely match the thickness of the wall. If the door is thicker than the interior partition, it will be difficult to secure it in the opening. Plus, there will be unsightly gaps on the sides under the casing. In the opposite situation, when the wall is too thick, you will need to install additional additional elements (extensions).

Design of interior doors with extensions

Opening sizes

Typical dimensions of doors with frames and openings for them are described in GOST standards. House designers and door block manufacturers try to follow these standards to make it easier for builders to select materials. However, often constructed buildings have deviations in height or a slight slope.

How to measure a doorway correctly

An opening for an interior door that differs from the standard dimensions in domestic high-rise buildings is far from uncommon. When measuring it before going to the store for the door block, you should measure the width and height of the existing hole in the wall in several places at once. It will still need to be leveled strictly vertically. If you make an error in the measurements, then it is unlikely that the product will be installed in accordance with building regulations.

Necessary measurements for interior doors

Double doors

If the opening is wider than 80 cm, then it is recommended to install a double door in it. The size of the door leaf is selected in such a situation as for two halves of a single structure. In rare cases, it is also possible to install a one-and-a-half model - one canvas is large, the second is half as large. But even here it is better to try to choose an option with two sliding doors. It will look more aesthetically pleasing than its one and a half counterpart.

Doors with hidden frame

Owners who want something unique in the interior often refuse standard models and prefer to install doors with a hidden frame. In these blocks, the door leaf is flush with the surface of the wall, and there are no platbands as such. The dimensions of interior doors of this design are selected according to the same scheme as ordinary ones. Only in thickness they should ideally correspond to the parameters of the interior partition, so as not to protrude from it even by a centimeter.

Interior doors are of great importance for decorating living spaces inside. A door is a kind of “barrier” that allows you to separate one room from another. In this case, the width of the door frame must be chosen correctly so that there are no obstacles when moving people, moving furniture and other objects.

When, the width can be chosen in standard sizes or larger/smaller, taking into account the purpose of the room and the desires of its owner. For houses and apartments, it is recommended to make room openings smaller than for the entrance to the home.

The standard size for the width of the entrance door leaf is chosen to be more than 800 millimeters. Interior doors have widths: 600, 700, 800 millimeters.

Size dependence

Sometimes owners deliberately expand the opening to 900 millimeters.

Tip: When designing and installing a passage in a room, it should be taken into account that large furniture is very difficult to bring into a passage 600 millimeters wide. The optimal size is 800 millimeters. You should choose the same dimensions for the bathroom, which will allow you to easily bring in a washing machine and other large equipment.

Standard dimensions are shown in the table:

The table shows that the canvas is selected at least 7 cm smaller than the doorway. But, the thickness of the door frame must also be taken into account.

So, for example, if the thickness is 30 millimeters, which corresponds to the minimum size, it is enough to increase the width of the opening by only 6 centimeters. But for veneered or telescopic boxes this will not be enough. They have a greater thickness, plus an additional gap for blowing foam.

Opening measurement

Height measurement

For those who like to do everything with their own hands and reduce the cost of work, we offer short instructions to help you correctly and quickly measure the doorway:

• Measurements should be taken on bare walls. To do this, remove the door leaf and frame before starting work.
• The distance between the walls is measured in several places: top, bottom and center. The smallest value is recorded.

Tip: If it was not possible to dismantle the elements, you need to measure the first one or the size from the center of one of the trims to the middle of the other. This will give approximate figures for the size of the opening.

Width Measurement

• The distance is measured from the lowest point of the floor to the top of the opening or the gap between the floor and the center of the platband is calculated if the box could not be removed.

Measuring scheme

• The depth of the opening is equal to the width of the wall. Therefore, the width of each wall is measured: on both sides of the opening and on top, or the thickness of the door frame is measured, and the wall protruding beyond it is added to it, if there is one.

Size calculation

After taking measurements, you can correctly calculate the size of the door leaf.

This takes into account:

• The height of the door leaf and its width.
• Thickness and width of the door frame.
• Width of platbands.
• If there is a threshold, its dimensions.

As an example, we take the calculation for a door leaf with dimensions:

• Height – 2 meters.
• Width – 80 centimeters.
• The thickness of the door frame is 25 millimeters.

When calculating the dimensions, it is necessary to add the thickness of the box on both sides to the width. In addition, the calculation also takes into account the installation gaps on each side, approximately 15-20 millimeters.

In this case, the width will be equal to: 800+25+25+15+15=880 millimeters. An example for calculation is shown in the photo.

Width calculation scheme

This width is an almost ideal option for manufacturers of interior doors. The doors are easily installed in standard sizes of residential openings.

The height is calculated in a similar way, taking into account the installation gaps and the presence of a threshold. The height of the doorway will be: 2000+25+10+15=2050 millimeters.

As a result, for a door leaf with dimensions of 2 x 0.8 meters, the opening in the wall is 2.05 x 0.88.

What is the thickness of door frames? Typically the standard size is 75 millimeters. This must be taken into account when installing the door.

Otherwise, you will need to use a box expander or saw it lengthwise. In this case, problems may arise during the subsequent installation of platbands, which will lead to damage to the appearance of the door.

To determine the parameters of the wall, you need to measure its thickness on all sides in three places. If the parameters around the perimeter of the doorway are the same, products with non-standard sizes are ordered. If the thickness at these points is different, the door frame is sawn or an extension is installed.

Watching the video in this article will allow you to correctly calculate the opening for installing the door leaf, taking into account the style, characteristics of materials, and operating conditions.

Purpose of the additional element

The additional element is a strip that is used to expand the timber of the used frame for the opening.

It is used to cover a section of the wall that is not hidden by the frame beam. The width of the required extension is calculated by measuring the thickness of the wall in the door opening, and the width of the frame beam is subtracted from the resulting value.

The standard width of an interior door frame is 7 centimeters. If the wall is thicker, additional installation is required. An exception is the use of “L” shaped trims.

Tip: When purchasing doors, you need to take into account the largest size of the wall thickness at the opening. Otherwise, the box will be smaller than the width of the wall. In this case, the platband will not fit tightly on the wall and frame.

If such a defect occurs, you need to use alabaster or gypsum mortar to cover the gap.

The width of the extension is equal to or greater than the part of the wall to be covered. For example, if the wall width is 12 centimeters, and the boxes are 8, an addition of at least 4 is required.

Features of the selection

Before installing the strips on the door frame, you should familiarize yourself with the advantages of installing them:

• High speed of installation of an expanded door block.
• There are no “wet” finishing processes that are unfavorable for wood.
• Long period between regular repairs.
• Aesthetics, which ensures the integrity and beautiful appearance of the door structure.
• Low price of planks.

The three components of the extender-extension, assembled into a single whole, resemble the letter P; it can be attached:

• Straight to the door frame.
• To the wall, where the opening is installed.
• On a mounting beam placed between the extensions and the vertical planes of the opening.

If there is no special mechanical load on the extensions, only liquid nails can be used to fix them into a specially made recess. But more often galvanized self-tapping screws are used for installation.

Tip: If the fixation is performed from the front side, it is necessary to hide the fastener heads with mastics or plugs matched to the tone of the box.

Types of additions

To furnish your home, you can purchase the following doors:

• With boxes in which a groove was pre-selected on the outside for proper alignment with the extensions.

To do this, you can use chipboard or wooden planks one centimeter thick. The width of the panel strips is measured with a box mounted into the opening, which will be the basis of the structure. In this case, the element is nailed on the back side of the opening with galvanized small nails in increments of 20 to 35 centimeters. You can insert the strips into the recess and then fix them in the opening of the box with glue.

• Without groove with box beam. In this case you can:

1. choose a groove using a machine with a special straight cutter yourself;
2. attach the extensions to the box beam through pre-drilled screws from the end of the element;

Tip: To attach additional strips to the frame, the diameter of the through holes along the entire length is not the same. First, the drill is taken with a diameter equal to the screw head, then according to the size of its barrel.

1. additional elements are installed on bars screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws. The first of them is located 200 millimeters from the floor, and then in increments of 60 centimeters;
2. the extensions with the box “sit” inside the base of plywood or plasterboard;
3. a box beam without a groove is connected to the slats by installing a rail, which runs from the outside of the opening along the alignment line;
4. a lath or plank made of plywood is attached around the perimeter not in a continuous strip, but in separate sections.

The timber and trim strips are nailed to the rail. In this case, the central axis of the rail and the connection line must coincide or have a slight offset.

After assembly, the outer line of the extensions is flush with the opening. Excess up to one millimeter is trimmed off with a plane, and then everything is closed with cash.

Installation of accessories

Typically, the top strip, combined with the lintel, is superimposed on two vertical parts.

To calculate its length, you need to add two thicknesses of additional racks to the size of the lintel. But you can also place the bar between them. In this case, the length of the lintel trim is selected according to the width of the box, and the thickness of the top strip is added to the heights of the left and right vertical elements.

Installation procedure:

• With scrupulous accuracy, measurements are taken according to the scheme that corresponds to the chosen method of fastening.

Tip: For right and left extensions, the vertical size is measured separately. In this case, the inner line of the future plank should be measured according to the box, and the outer line in the opening after the fact.

• The board is cut according to measurements and according to the construction diagram.
• All three additional elements are attached to the assembled door frame.
• When attaching the slats to a box that is not installed in the opening, it is installed together with them.
• Mounting wedges are placed between the wall and the door base and they are used to align the device in the opening.
• The installation gap is blown in with foam before installing the spacer wedges, between the box beams and the extensions.
• Foaming of the entire space is carried out in portions, in at least two steps. Adjustments to the curing process are controlled while the foam cures.
• The work is completed by sealing the gap formed between the wooden parts and the floor, and installing the platbands.

A correctly executed door frame expansion allows you to create any opening quickly and efficiently. This is especially important when it is difficult to select a standard ready-made design.

Door blocks consist of two parts - the leaf and the frame. Most manufactured door blocks have standard leaf sizes from 60 to 90 cm. The dimensions of door frames, regardless of the dimensions of the door leaf, exceed its dimensions by a certain amount. But this figure is not standard for all door frame models and may differ less in lighter door frames.

How to measure thickness?

First of all, let’s define the terms and agree on what exactly is meant by the thickness of the door frame. Since this size is often confused with the depth of the box, let’s clarify right away: take a look at the image below. The thickness of the door frame is a distance equal to the difference between the width of the door frame and the width of the door leaf divided in two. The depth in the diagram is labeled “Wall thickness in the opening” and is 5-7 cm. The minimum depth for standard door frames is 65 mm. The remaining size options are non-standard dimensions and to order, please check their availability at the place of purchase.

Having decided on the concept of thickness, let’s calculate it for standard door blocks. In classic door models, generally recognized manufacturers have door frame dimensions larger than the door leaf dimensions by 70 mm, both in width and height, if the frame has a threshold. So, for example, for a door leaf with a width of 800 mm, the width of the frame will be 870 mm. Using these dimensions, it is easy to find out what the standard thickness of the door frame of interior doors is. To do this we use the formula:

• Tk = (Shk - Shp) / 2

Where Tk is the thickness of the door frame, Shk is the width of the frame, Shp is the width of the leaf

Using the example of a door leaf with a width of 800 mm, the calculation will look like this:

• Tk = (870 mm - 800 mm) / 2 = 35 mm

The resulting value will be standard thickness of the door frame of interior doors, she equal to 35 mm.

There are also lightweight door frames, the sizes of which differ from standard ones. The thickness of such a box will be less than 35 mm and before purchasing, check with the seller what kind of door you are buying. Recently, door manufacturers have begun to produce more lightweight frames, and there is a possibility that when purchasing, you may accidentally choose just such a model. The thickness of the timber (or MDF) used for lightweight boxes is 25 mm.

Types of door frames on video

Why else do you need to know the thickness of the box?

It is no coincidence that the thickness of the door frame is 3.5 cm. As we have already written, the dimensions of the doorway are also calculated depending on the size of the door leaf and in standard interior openings they are 10 cm larger than the width of the door leaf. Thus, we get a distance from the leaf to the doorway equal to 5 cm. This is where 3.5 cm of the thickness of the frame and a 1.5 cm gap are placed for securing the door frame in the wall using mounting foam.

Installation of the door block (leaf + frame) occurs not only on polyurethane foam. Although each method includes its use, technologies differ in the type of additional fasteners used during installation. Most often, simple wooden spacers or pegs are used, which are inserted into the space between the frame and the opening. With their help, the block in the opening is leveled: each peg is driven in tightly so that the door frame does not deform, but the entire block is held tightly in the opening. When it is sufficiently firmly fixed with spacers, polyurethane foam is applied into the voids using a special gun. It is also important to install horizontal spacers inside the box so that the foam does not subsequently deform the box when it expands.

Thus, we found out that the standard thickness of an interior door frame is 3.5 cm. It is also important to remember that in recent years, manufacturers are increasingly producing non-standard frames. They are also called lightweight and are used in cases where there is a need to install a wider leaf in a small doorway.

Sooner or later, every apartment owner has to face the problem of a major overhaul, during which it will be necessary to replace door frames for interior doors. The task of installing a door frame into a doorway does not require any specific carpentry skills, the main thing is attention and accuracy in work.

How to install a door frame, sequence of operations

Any work on replacing door frames begins with studying the width and condition of the walls, the old door and the opening. Often the walls themselves, brick and concrete require cosmetic repairs, finishing and restoration of plaster, therefore, before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to remove the trim and restore the integrity of the brickwork.

The procedure for installing the door frame of an interior door is simple, and its implementation requires several simple operations:

• They remove the door, cut the piece to width with a hand saw and carefully dismantle the old frame, clearing the doorway;
• Measure the width of the doorway in at least four places. If you plan to install a new door of greater width, you will need to trim the vertical walls of the opening using a grinder and a hammer drill. But this must be done extremely carefully so as not to break the brickwork;
• Measure the exact width and height of the new door. Measure the required dimensions of the doorway on the wall, taking into account allowances for the thickness of the boards and the width of the gaps. The total width of the opening will be determined as the width of the door frame of the interior door plus 25 mm per side for mounting elements and foam;
• Mark the timber or board purchased for assembling the frame, file the joints on the jambs, pre-sew them with self-tapping screws and try them on the new door. Install the frame in the doorway, check the width and secure with self-tapping screws and foam.

Advice! If you are not completely confident in your skills and precise understanding of how to install and fasten a door frame, you can take part in the process of replacing a door frame with neighbors or friends, do a test cut with your own hands, or watch a video, for example:

Which door frame option to choose

Factory-made interior doors are often produced and sold with a set of door frames of standard width in disassembled form. This option saves you from having to select the width of the frame yourself, but there is no guarantee that the door frame is assembled correctly. Therefore, often a door of the required width is purchased separately, and a board or fiberboard-MDF boards are purchased separately. Standard dimensions of door frames - thickness and width of doors are given in the table:

In addition, when choosing the size of the material for building a door, it is necessary to take into account that the thickness of the door frame of an interior door is a standard value, but the width of the walls, even within the same apartment, can vary greatly. Therefore, for each interior door you have to check the width of the doorway, draw up your own passport with the dimensions and, if necessary, buy additional elements that allow you to expand the width of the door to the width of the walls.

To make a door frame or door frame of the required width, the following is most often used:

If you have a choice, use profiled softwood boards to assemble the door frame. This material has good workability, high strength, and does not absorb moisture like pressed materials made from paper and wood fibers.

For your information! A self-tapping screw screwed into wood according to the rules will provide 100% of the connection strength; a similar fastener for pressed paper provides 30% of the design strength of the fastener.

In addition, a pine frame will allow you to install heavier doors, for example, from MDF, glass or solid wood. Wood-fiber materials are suitable only for the lightest cardboard structures.

We install a door frame of standard width

The most popular size of interior doors is considered to be a leaf height of 200 cm with a width of 80 cm. If desired, you can select and install a door structure with a width of 85 or even 90 cm. But in this case, due to the increased width, the vertical stand with awnings has to be made from a 35-cm board. 40 mm, install reinforced ones, or increase their number to three pieces.

Assembling door frames

The door frame consists of three main parts:

• The front part of a box or key block. This is one of the vertical beams into which the door lock strike plate is mounted;
• The hinged part is a beam that receives and holds the weight of the doors through the hinges;
• The lintel or upper cross beam connecting the vertical posts.

If the doors are quite heavy or wide enough, a threshold is additionally installed in the frame. Otherwise, for interior structures of regular width, a U-shaped version of the tray is more suitable.

After measuring the door leaf, the actual size of the frame, its width and height are calculated. You can’t just take and sheathe the doors along the contour; in this case, the door simply won’t open and close. Therefore, the width of the gaps has to be added to the measured dimensions, as in the diagram shown.

Before cutting the vertical and horizontal elements of the box, you need to decide on the method of connecting the boards or timber into one structure. The most durable and easiest to manufacture is the tongue-and-groove joint. To do this, cut out two blanks of vertical posts - the hinged and recessed parts. To the calculated length of the rack it is necessary to add twice the thickness of the workpiece. In a similar way, mark and cut out the lintel beam. On the lintel using a drill and a hacksaw, tenons are cut out at both ends; on the vertical posts, the lintels are marked along the finished tenons and the mating part is cut in the form of grooves. The threshold is made in the same way.

If the width of the wall is greater than the thickness of the box, the boards are built up with additional elements, as in the diagram.

If the width of the opening in the wall is larger than the size of the box, in this case an additional piece of timber is sewn onto the outer part of the beam, from the side of the loop or hinged beam, as in the diagram. If the width of the opening is too large, the front part of the box is also supplemented in a similar way.

On the side, the holes are made on the door leaf laid horizontally. After adjusting all the parts and aligning the corners of the box, the joints are glued and connected with carpentry screws. To preserve the resulting geometry of the door, the structure is sheathed with wooden planks - spacers, carefully removed from the door leaf and installed in the doorway.

Door frame installation

The chute will be installed correctly if every movement or alignment is controlled using a building level. Due to its low rigidity, the structure “plays”, so immediately after installation, the box opening is slightly wedged with thin wooden blocks. To prevent the sidewalls and ceiling beams from being squeezed into the frame, use a pair of wooden spacers, as in the photo.

The box is pre-aligned according to the readings of the level gauge and notches are made on the walls; in the future, they will help to quickly restore the previous position of the box. We attach the wooden structure to the wall using long self-tapping screws; for heavy doors, anchor fastenings can be used.

On the ceiling and vertical posts, use an electric drill to drill two thin holes, 0.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Next, we remove the loot, punch holes according to the drill marks on the walls and install dowels under 6-millimeter self-tapping screws.

We return the loot to its place, insert the screws and tighten it by 10-15 mm. After this, using a level, we restore the correct position of the box and screw in the fasteners to the full length. We fill the gap between the timber and the wall with foam.

Conclusion

Before the foam hardens, it is necessary to once again check the position of the door frame according to the building level data, and, if necessary, carefully knock in the place of deviation. After the polyurethane foam has gained half its hardness, you need to tighten the screws again and close the caps with decorative caps. After installing the canopies, we attach the platbands.

Hinges for metal doors made of aluminum must not only withstand heavy loads, but also last a long time. Much attention is paid to the way they are installed on the door.
Different types of profile
With the spread of technology, some familiar things are changing. Doors, for example, are increasingly made of plastic and aluminum. These are modern profile designs, elegant, lightweight. But they have different levels of strength. Aluminum solutions are increasingly used for entrance areas of shops and public buildings, and many install them on the verandas of houses. Here, not standard hinges for metal doors are used, but special systems, the task of which is to provide control for doors that do not have a completely standard design.
Based on the nature of thermal protection, two types of aluminum profiles can be distinguished:
warm;
cold.
Naturally, these are only conventional names. The warm one received this name for the reason that inside it there is a special insert made of polymer material. It serves as a kind of insulation, so when the air temperature drops, the inside of the profile does not cool as much as the outside. There is a significant reduction in heat loss. It goes away only because the thermal conductivity of the metal is high, and the inner surface of the frame still cools down.
Cold profile is the simplest technical solution, a sheet of metal bent in the required way. It does not have an internal filler; when frost sets in, all the problems associated with the lack of compensation are observed:
heat loss,
sudden cooling of the inner surface of the frame,
condensate,
sometimes – ice freezing.
These are the main differences related to the user characteristics of the two types of profiles and affecting the price of the finished product.
There is another important factor that concerns the types of hinges for an aluminum door or window sash. Depending on which profile is used to manufacture the structure, hinges are selected:
invoices,
hidden,
universal,
unilateral.
They are attached in several ways and differ in the material from which they are made, the opening angle, adjustment capabilities and other subtleties.
Materials used for manufacturing
For aluminum structures, hinges for metal doors and systems whose appearance is familiar to literally everyone are not used. However, the same materials are used:
brass;
stainless or low-corrosion alloys;
stainless steel;
aluminum and alloys based on it.
Each of the materials has its own advantages, which determines the areas of application of certain loops.
Brass.
Brass hinges are ideal for creating a variety of finishes. The metal is ductile, easy to process, polish, and provides good adhesion. Also, brass hinges are the most common option in the case of hidden structures, which become visible at certain moments when the door moves. Such fittings are very durable, ensure long-term reliable operation, and there are no deposits or color changes on the surface. The applied coating holds up very well.
Iron-based alloys.
Widely used in adjustable structures. Elements hidden under the overlays or located inside allow various appearance defects - darkening of the surface, abrasion, oxidation. The only key requirements for such parts are strength and wear resistance, which iron-based alloys can successfully provide.
Stainless steel.
The most durable material for making hinges for aluminum structures. They can withstand the enormous weight of the canvas, have a modern appearance, the polished surface is very durable, characterized by a pleasant mirror shine or deliberately matted. Almost no oxide film is formed, so the appearance is ideal - even color and other characteristics.
The disadvantage is that stainless steel parts are difficult to galvanize. It is difficult to coat such material. Another disadvantage is the difficulty of processing, which is why stainless steel hinges are the most expensive. If you look at the market offers, you can safely say that without lining there are only one type of stainless steel products: the color of polished metal or with a matte surface.
Aluminum and alloys are not based on it. Such loops are quite rare. Although they belong to the low price group, they have enough disadvantages that limit their use. For example, stainless steel hinges can withstand maximum loads - 150 kg for two hinges is considered normal.
Brass hinges have similar advantages - here the recommended door leaf weight is 100 kg for two hinges. Aluminum cannot boast of this level. However, hinges for aluminum structures made of the same material are found on entrance doors with a small glass area and a total weight of 50-60 kg. This solution is especially common in the area of ​​hidden hinges.
Fastening methods
Depending on the profile used, there are several options for connecting the loop to the fastening area of ​​the blade. Some of them allow you to speed up assembly as much as possible, others provide the possibility of multiple installations, and others are applicable only for a certain type of profile.
Cold structures. There is more freedom for engineering solutions. The profile is empty, so there are no restrictions on the use of anchors, screws or internal fasteners. Two main methods have become widespread: embedded and quick assembly.
When installing embedded parts, an element is placed inside the profile part into which screws are screwed. Its design depends mainly on the configuration of the space, dimensions, and profile brand. The ability of the hinge to bear the weight of the sash depends on the area of ​​the embedded plate and the thickness of the metal wall. Standard recommendations for this type of fastening are as follows: 100 kg of door weight, 1.7 mm profile wall thickness, 25 square centimeters of mounting plate area. For overhead hinges made of stainless steel, this type of connection is the most common.
Expansion anchors are used to speed up installation. This is an element that is inserted into the hole; when the bolt head is screwed in, the inner part expands and securely presses the hinge to the profile. This collection method, like the previous one, allows for repeated installation. You can unwind, pull out the anchor, change the loop if necessary.
Warm designs. For the installation of products from a profile filled with insulation, embedded plates are used. The difference between cold profiles is that they are placed in advance, in clearly regulated areas. To fix them in one position, special spacer bushings are used. Fastening with expansion anchor is also available.
There is another way - screwing self-tapping anchors. Although the installation speed will be maximum, the key disadvantage is that repeated dismantling and installation is impossible. The thread gradually deteriorates and the connection becomes unstable. For a warm profile with dense filler, a wedge anchor is used - when screwed, the inner part expands and reliably fixes the parts.
Special types of accommodation
Separately, it is worth noting the hidden loop options. They are mounted on the end parts of aluminum parts. Therefore, a cutout or surface overlay fit is most often used. Fastening is carried out using expansion anchors or self-tapping connections. Here there are minimal requirements; no fastenings are used, since the loop itself distributes the force over the area of ​​its fastening zones.
All kinds of hinges are used for aluminum doors. To avoid reinventing the wheel, contact your product suppliers. Some types of fittings may be inexpensive, but can only be used for a certain type of profile.
If the goal is to create a completely invisible connection or other non-standard cases, it is worth choosing special fittings for this purpose. Today, among technological solutions there are a lot of convenient options that can provide any imaginable characteristics, parameters and conveniences.