The walls are plasterboard without a frame. Methods for attaching drywall to the wall. Is it possible to attach GVL directly to a concrete wall without profiles?

If you prefer to carry out home repairs exclusively on your own, and also always try to save money, read our article to the end. We will tell you how to attach drywall with your own hands to walls without a frame. So that they become perfectly even with a minimum of material costs.

Scope of material use

Drywall is a composite material manufactured in the form of sheets with high flexibility and durability (GCR). Many characteristics of a material depend on its type. And the type is selected for the specific parameters of the room: moisture-resistant is used in the bathroom and kitchen, non-moisture-resistant in the bedroom or living room.

Its use allows you to level the curvature of the walls of an already built country cottage or city apartment. And we will then talk about how you can do it yourself by cladding walls with a sheet of plasterboard without first constructing a metal frame.

Possible use of plasterboard structures

Advantages of gypsum plasterboard

The performance characteristics demonstrated by a sheet of plasterboard are ideal for residential premises. Therefore, experts say that when leveling the surface of the walls of a country house or city apartment, you cannot find a better material.

Other advantages include the following:

• environmental cleanliness, absence of toxins and, as a result, harmlessness to others;
• complies with radiation indicator standards;
• features energy-saving parameters;
• characterized by excellent sound insulation ability;
• fire resistant and does not burn;
• there are species that are resistant to high levels of moisture;
• has a fairly wide scope of application, as it allows builders and interior designers to realize the most incredible architectural fantasies and decorative ideas.

Required Tools

A person’s arsenal when working with gypsum boards should include the following tools:

• measuring tape: for taking measurements;
• construction knife: for cutting plasterboard;
• spatula: for applying putty at the joints of sheets;
• fine sandpaper for sanding joints;
• electric jigsaw: if you need to create shaped inserts;
• level: to determine the curvature of a surface.

How to attach drywall to a wall

In most cases, to attach plasterboard sheets to walls, a frame of metal profiles is first constructed. However, this technique cannot always be applied without problems.

There are situations when installing a frame is simply impossible. So, in small rooms, wall decoration with plasterboard can be organized without such a design. After all, the profile frame “eats up” quite a lot of free space, which is already limited in a small room.

A prerequisite for the effectiveness and durability of repairs is a dry surface. If the wall was wet during the work, the finish will not last long on it.

We carry out measurements and calculations

An obligatory stage of work is to carry out measurements and calculations relevant to the premises. Measurements of the height and width of the walls are carried out with a measuring tape. Specific numbers will allow you to calculate the working surface area and calculate the current volume of materials.

Examine the wall on which the slab will be mounted in the future for curvature. After all, the features of covering the base with plasterboard without a frame will largely depend on this parameter.

When choosing plasterboard boards, first of all you need to determine the current conditions in your room. Be sure to take note that gypsum boards must be laid offset. This technique allows you to prevent cross-shaped joints.

How to cut material

To cut the product, mark a cut line on it with a simple pencil. Then, make an incision in the plasterboard with one construction knife and break it, bending the product inward along the intended line. Now you can make an incision on the other side and the final break of the gypsum board. This way the edges of the sheets will be neat.

Preparing the wall for plasterboard covering

The next stage of work is surface preparation. It involves cleaning the base from dust, dirt and peelings of the previous finish. A porous surface should be primed. In the case of a new building, other repairs to the premises must already be completed. So, before you begin installing slabs on its walls, all communications must be installed. Then you can safely choose one of the methods for performing this task.

Apply adhesive composition

In order to fix the drywall on the wall, you can use starting putty. It is also permissible to use building gypsum, to which water and PVA are added. Such a composition will have high quality characteristics. But the best option is ready-made glue.

The mixture should be applied to the drywall in large drops using a notched trowel.

Installation of gypsum boards

And to complete the work, you need to install drywall sheets. The construction of a frame for drywall is inappropriate here, since it requires enough free space in the room. And the technique and actual adhesive composition for this operation is determined by the degree of surface curvature.

If a very smooth wall is covered with plasterboard, then it must first be primed with a special product. So, an excellent option would be the Concrete Contact soil, which significantly increases the adhesion of the base. And for leveling bases with plasterboard, you can prefer “Perlfix” and “Fugenfüller” from the famous Knauf brand. These compositions will reliably fix the plasterboard on the base without losing their original qualities.

If the walls of the house are made of concrete, the installation of gypsum boards should be carried out after they have been treated with a primer such as “Rikombigrunt” or “Tiefengrund”. Such compositions prevent the absorption of glue by concrete structures.

Covering a wall with plasterboard with differences of less than 4 mm involves gluing gypsum boards to the working wall using a Fugenfüller-type putty mixture. It is applied in thin longitudinal rows. To perform this operation, take a notched spatula. This tool will make working with putty very comfortable.

If the unevenness of the base does not exceed 20 mm, then it is worth using the more reliable Perlfix glue for gluing the gypsum board to it. Moreover, the composition should be applied in piles using a trowel, observing a step size of 35 cm. The piles should have the same size and height less than 25 mm. If wall defects exceed 40 mm, then installation of plasterboard on the bases is carried out on top of the lathing using Fugenfüller type putty and self-tapping screws.

After the beds are applied to the wall, you will need to make pads from drywall scraps. You can also use wooden slats. They are mounted around the perimeter of the working surface. And then gypsum boards are installed on the bottom of the created linings. Light blows from a rubber mallet force the sheets into place more tightly. Experts also advise not to skimp on glue, but to make a thicker layer.

Finishing

When the installation of gypsum boards is completed, the joints of the sheets are puttied and sanded with sandpaper until perfectly even. Further, the walls can be covered with decorative plaster, painted, wallpapered, etc.

Installing gypsum boards on walls without a frame in order to level them is quite easy to do with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to accurately measure the curvature of the bases, read our article to the end, and also have plasterboard sheets, wooden slats and glue.

Installation of drywall can be carried out on walls and ceilings in two main ways: on the frame and directly on the wall.

Frameless installation involves fixing sheets of drywall directly to the surface, without first creating a frame. The choice of method depends on the unevenness of the wall or ceiling.

It can be produced in three ways:

1. For gypsum putty. It is acceptable in cases where irregularities are no more than 4 millimeters. The binder material is applied along the edge and in the middle of the gypsum board in a thin layer.
2. Glue method is used when the unevenness is up to 20 millimeters. The glue is applied to the plasterboard in thin lines over the entire surface, the distance between the adhesive layers is 30-35 centimeters.
3. If the unevenness is large(up to 40 millimeters), then two layers of gypsum board are created: the first is strip (strips of 10 centimeters each), the second is solid, undivided sheets of plasterboard are used.

For this method, gypsum boards with a thickness of no more than 12 millimeters are used. The height of such a structure can be 3 meters.

Cladding gypsum board walls using a frameless method is used:

1. In loggias, terraces, bathrooms and restrooms, in showers and swimming pools, in basements and on, for the design of slopes of door and window openings.
2. In niches where communications pass, in corridors and halls of non-residential premises, lobbies, foyers.

The frameless fastening method can be used in cases where the unevenness of the wall does not exceed 2 centimeters in some places. It is used on various surfaces: concrete, brick, block; under certain conditions, timber walls can also be covered with plasterboard.

The advantages of this method include:

1. Economy. You don’t have to purchase metal profiles, guides, or fastening materials.
2. Less time is required to create the skin. Because creating a frame is not required.
3. During operation, it is much less likely that cracks will appear at the joints, the wall turns out to be smoother and more reliable.
4. Possibility of installation with your own hands.

The disadvantages include the fact that this option can only be used on flat surfaces. If the unevenness is large, you will have to first prepare the wall: level it using beacons. This is a rather labor-intensive process that not everyone can do on their own.

With this wall decoration it is quite difficult to install communications inside. In addition, there are few insulation options with this design. Most often, polystyrene foam is used, which not everyone likes because it is not environmentally friendly.

Methods for fixing material to the wall can be as follows:

1. Using glue.
2. Using gypsum putty.

Preparing the walls

Preparation of the base is the very first and most important stage of surface design.

It includes the following steps:

1. Cleaning the surface of old coating, dirt, dust. Surface requirements:
   • absence of major defects or deformations;
   • strength;
   • the wall should not be frozen or wet;
2. Wall primer. This is necessary in order to increase the adhesion of parts to the surface during installation.
3. Determining and measuring the depth of wall irregularities. This is done using a building level, which is applied to the surface, or a plumb line. Depending on the value of these parameters, the method of performing the work is selected.
4. The wall is marked, that is, those places are highlighted to which the gypsum boards will be glued.
5. Installation of electrical wiring locations, switches, sockets.
6. Cutting drywall sheets. To do this, the material is applied to the wall, leveled, and cut into sheets of the required size. It is necessary to cut the sheet approximately 1 centimeter less than the height of the wall to create gaps.

DIY installation

The smoother the surface where installation is carried out, the higher quality drywall you can get.

Attaching drywall to the wall using a frameless method is easy to do yourself. It is easier and faster to do such work together. Before you begin installation, you should take care of purchasing materials and tools.

To carry out the work you need to buy:

• plasterboard sheets for walls 12.5 millimeters thick;
• gypsum powder mixture or glue;
• dilution container;
• electric jigsaw;
• rule;

Tools:

• roulette;
• level;
• plumb line;
• pencil;
• hacksaw;
• rail;

Step by step guide

If necessary, you need to pre-plaster separate sections of the surface or the entire wall.

After the preparatory work, we proceed to installation.

Glue method:

1. The glue is prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, which are located on the packaging. As a rule, to dilute a mixture of 30 kilograms, about 20 liters of ordinary water are required. The composition is measured on a scale, then the required amount of liquid is added and mixed well. The consistency should be homogeneous, thick like sour cream.
2. The finished solution is distributed over the entire sheet of drywall as follows: first, marks are made in 4-5 columns, then up to 6 adhesive columns are created in a row along the entire sheet. How firmly the sheet will stick to the wall depends on the amount of glue applied.
3. Press the greased sheet tightly against the wall and level it. It is necessary to press down the sheet as hard as possible. For this purpose, a rail or wooden stand is used. After which the sheet must be left to dry.

It is necessary to leave small gaps at the bottom and top using gypsum putty:

1. The putty is spread. The instructions should be on the package with the dry mixture.
2. The drywall sheet is lubricated with the compound around the perimeter and in the middle. Further steps are the same as with the adhesive method of wall cladding.

This is how all gypsum boards are attached to the wall.

Since the adhesive mixture tends to harden quickly, it must be used promptly. It is advisable that the container be used within a maximum of half an hour. In this regard, it is recommended not to completely fill the entire composition, making fresh glue for each new sheet.

The final stage includes the following types of work:

1. Places of joints and possible damage are smeared with glue or sealed with special tape (mounting tape), which is used for drywall.
2. Aligning corners. To do this, you can use perforated corners made of plastic or metal. Alignment is carried out after all the sheets are glued.

The corners are secured using mounting adhesive. The resulting protrusion, no larger than 1 millimeter in size, can be easily removed with a putty solution.

Advice! It is imperative to seal joints and corners when surface painting is used as a finishing touch.

Cost of work

Installation of drywall without a frame for 1 square meter costs from 500 rubles. Exact prices can be found out from the construction company when contacting them; they are calculated taking into account all the nuances, in accordance with the project.

Installation may include the following work: lining of pipes and communications, installation of heat and sound insulation, puttying, priming the surface for painting on gypsum boards.

1. To increase the service life of drywall, after gluing it to the wall surface, it would be useful to secure the sheets with dowel nails. To do this, holes are created in the drywall along the perimeter, 40 centimeters in increments, and dowels are inserted into which nails should be driven. The head of the nail should enter the surface of the sheet.
2. Surface primer is required. It allows you not only to increase the adhesion of the material to the wall, but also to fill in irregularities that may not be noticeable at first glance.
3. After the glue has dried, seams and gaps near the ceiling must also be primed. The bottom gap can simply be removed under the baseboard. If desired, you can also install a ceiling plinth on top.
4. If using moisture-resistant cardboard, it is necessary to ensure that the material is fixed with the front side facing out, since they have some features in the structure that help prevent the sheet from getting wet and the appearance of fungus and mold.

Most often, plasterboard is used, which today, due to its advantages, is one of the best methods of interior cladding. Usually, for its installation, a special sheathing is constructed from a metal profile, but this may not always be advisable. In small rooms, for example, installing a frame will reduce its already small area.

Required tools and materials

To attach drywall to walls without lathing, you will need the following materials and tools:

• plasterboard sheets;
• powder mixture or construction adhesive;
• primer composition;
• bucket for preparing fixing solution;
• a screwdriver with an attachment or a construction mixer;
• jigsaw;
• spirit level to determine the level;
• construction or stationery knife for cutting sheets;
• ruler, felt-tip pen, tape measure;
• rule;
• metal brush;
• roller for painting;
• rubber mallet;
• smooth long rail;
• spatulas.

Measurements and cutting

The initial stage of work is taking measurements of the room and cutting materials. Based on the measurement results, you can consider options for the arrangement of sheets and determine the most acceptable one. If the ceiling height exceeds 2.5 meters, in addition to standard sheets, you will need inserts that must be pre-cut.

The process of cutting and cutting drywall for inserts is as follows:

• the line along which cutting will be carried out is indicated;
• along the entire length of the marked line, a knife is used to cut one side of the sheet;
• along the cutting line, bending inward, it is cut;
• on the opposite side, at the fracture site, the cut sheet is cut into two parts.

Preparing the walls

The next step is preparing the base. Depending on the material from which the walls are decorated, various measures are taken to prepare it. So, for brickwork it will be enough to treat it with a primer mixture.

If the surface has been plastered, to avoid peeling of the putty and deformation of the slab, all coating should be removed, including all layers of finish, then immediately apply a primer coat.

If difficulties arise in the process of removing the old base, you will need to use a metal brush, with which dust, dirt and deposits are removed from the wall.

If during work the finish peels off from the base, you should carefully plaster the potholes so that the surface is smooth.

Let's take a closer look at the process of preparing the wall surface:

1. To remove paint or old wallpaper, it is better to use a hard metal spatula. It is important that it does not sag. Before removing the wallpaper, you should wet it well with a sponge and allow the water to soak into the wallpaper layer for some time and soak the glue. If necessary, you can wet the wall several times. As an alternative to water, you can use a special liquid to remove wallpaper, but it is not cheap, but the process of removing wallpaper is noticeably easier.
2. Plaster can be removed using an axe, hammer or hammer drill., making sure that the wall is completely clear of decoration, otherwise it may negatively affect the final result.
3. A layer of old paint can be removed using a small ax, with which the old coating is knocked off centimeter by centimeter.

Fixing composition

For work with drywall that does not require the installation of a frame for attaching drywall, adhesive mixtures are used. Since drywall is used for interior decoration, the basis of dry compositions is gypsum. Instead of glue, you can use starting putty or alabaster, but to increase adhesion you will have to add PVA glue or wallpaper glue to the water.

Let's consider several ways to use the solution:

• when differences exceed 5 mm, the plasterboard is fixed to putty with a gypsum base, which is applied in a thin layer along all edges and in the middle of the slab;
• with differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are fixed using a special gypsum glue, which is applied pointwise at a distance of 30 centimeters;
• for unevenness less than 40 mm, strips of plasterboard 10 cm wide are attached to the wall using glue, after which sheets are glued onto them using putty;
• if the wall differences are more than 40-50 mm, the frameless method of attaching drywall is unacceptable.

A solution for fixing drywall to walls is prepared from a powder mixture and water. To prepare a 10-liter bucket, fill it a third with water and add the mixture little by little, constantly stirring it with a mixer or drill at low speed.

Knead the solution for less than 5 minutes, then take a short break and beat again, this will break up all the dry lumps. The consistency of the solution should resemble mashed potatoes.

Fixing mixtures, regardless of the manufacturer, harden fairly quickly, however, subsequent finishing of drywall can begin no earlier than after 24 hours.

Drywall installation

There are several ways to frameless fasten drywall:

1. Fixation with glue. First of all, in order to avoid damage to the drywall, which can occur when the walls are deformed, it is recommended to leave small gaps: 1 cm from the floor, 0.5 cm from the ceiling and between the sheets. To do this, you will need wooden pegs when fixing the material. A solution is applied to a sheet previously treated with a primer., after which it is glued to the base as quickly but carefully as possible. First of all, gaskets are installed in the lower edge, then after positioning the sheet according to the lower marks, the rest of it is fixed. Using a rule or level, lightly tapping with a rubber hammer adjusts the unevenness, but it is not advisable to knock on the tool. The alignment process is controlled as follows: determined the location of the unevenness, removed the tool, leveled it and adjusted the level again. After leveling is completed, the slab should be supported for a while with a wooden lath. If the differences in the wall are significant, guides are used for installation, which are installed in places of greatest difference, compensating for them with a large amount of glue. The sheets should be aligned carefully so as not to deform it. Upon completion of the work, the joints of the sheets are glued with fiberglass mesh, and after the solution has dried, they are puttied. Roughness and unevenness are rubbed down with sandpaper, the surface is cleaned of dust and primed.
2. Installation with self-tapping screws. This method is a little more complicated than the previous one, but more reliable. Suitable for walls with large irregularities. In addition to the basic set of materials and tools, you will need polyurethane foam and foam rubber (thin ones will not work). Before attaching the sheets, the walls must be treated with a primer. Then the previously cut slabs are applied to the base, and holes are drilled in constant steps at ten points, which serve as a marker. Remove the slab and drive anchors into the holes using markers. Foam rubber is glued onto the sheet at a distance of 9-11 centimeters from the holes, which acts as a shock absorber, then it is leaned against the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws. Drywall is fastened using a level by screwing in and unscrewing screws. To fix the sheet, a hole with a circumference of about 5 mm is drilled near each screw, into which polyurethane foam will be poured. Before pouring, it is advisable to practice with the dosage; it is necessary that after the foam comes out, a spot with a diameter of 12-15 centimeters will form. If there are electrical switches or sockets on the walls, holes for them are pre-cut. After the foam has hardened, the screws are removed and the resulting holes are covered with putty. Then you can proceed to the final stage of work - sealing the seams and installing skirting boards.

Let's get acquainted with the features of installing the material on a base with varying degrees of differences:

1. If unevenness exceeds 4 mm, the sheets can be installed from any angle and close to each other. If the material is attached to a wooden base, you can use nails with large heads that go shallow into the drywall.
2. For differences of up to 20 mm, the sheets are laid on glue from the corner close to each other. Any glue that may appear at the joints should be carefully removed.
3. Installation of drywall with unevenness up to 40 mm is carried out by cutting the sheets into strips half a meter wide, and they are attached vertically to the base.

Completion of work

After completing the installation of drywall using a frameless method, the joints between the sheets should be securely sealed. At this stage, the joints are filled with putty and reinforcing glass tape is glued, which is covered with a finishing layer of plaster.

After the surface has dried, all irregularities and roughness are rubbed off using sanding paper.

It is important to reliably align and adhere the material to the openings for windows and doors. In a room with plastic windows, finishing of the fit is carried out using a plastic profile. The gaps above the floor are covered with plinth, and the gaps under the ceiling are puttied or covered with ceiling plinth.

1. Finishing with plasterboard may require the use of shaped inserts. To do this, you will need to use an electric jigsaw, which can be used to create beautiful shapes with smooth edges.
2. When cleaning the surface there will be a lot of dust, Therefore, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask, and periodically spray the base with water.
3. The ceiling height when installing drywall without sheathing should not exceed three meters due to the fact that the technology does not provide for horizontal joints.
4. If the sheet is deformed during installation of the material, it can be restored. So, shallow scratches and chips are smoothed out with putty. To do this, clean the scratched area from dust, remove torn parts of the cardboard and repair the damage with universal putty or gypsum mixture. If there are any irregularities, after the putty has dried, they are sanded with sandpaper.
5. Deep damage is repaired by applying a patch. A hole is cut out in a previously cleaned damaged area so that its circumference in depth is larger than the circumference of the outer edge. A patch is cut out of drywall so that it fits tightly into the hole. On the other side it is secured with a wooden plank. On the outside, the patch is reinforced with fabric and puttied. After drying, sand it.
6. In rooms with a large number of electrical appliances and hidden wiring, it is recommended to use fire-resistant material, which will prevent the occurrence of fire hazards.

Among the variety of modern building materials, there are undoubted bestsellers that are used everywhere, are versatile and are extremely popular among builders. Drywall is a well-deserved leader in wall decoration; it is affordable and easy to use. Having studied in detail the properties and technical characteristics of this wonderful material, as well as following the technology, you can make repairs using drywall yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists and reduce costs by choosing the best option for the price, because there are several ways to properly attach drywall to the wall.

Pros and cons of using drywall in repairs

A gypsum panel, covered on both sides with thick cardboard, has amazing strength for soft, crumbling gypsum; it can be cut, sawed, and planed. Drywall is indispensable when leveling walls and ceilings, erecting partitions, arches, and architectural structures of complex shapes.

Walls with figured niches and multi-level ceilings, columns and openings are easily constructed using GC

Repair using gypsum plasterboard has a number of advantages:

• perfectly smooth walls, the smooth surface of which is ready for painting or other finishing, including any types of wallpaper and tiles;
• low weight does not create a load on the wall and frame, has sufficient strength;
• does not support combustion, there are fireproof gypsum plasterboard models;
• convenient standard sheet sizes, different thicknesses depending on construction tasks and affordable prices;
• ease of processing, cutting and installation, holds fasteners perfectly;
• ample opportunities for the implementation of creative ideas and the most daring design ideas;
• environmental safety allows you to sheathe walls even in children’s rooms;
• communications and insulation can be hidden under the panels;

The disadvantages of using the material include:

• eats up some room space, not suitable for small areas;
• afraid of getting wet; for use in conditions of high humidity, waterproof types are produced with the GKLV marking;
• breaks and crumbles when bent, so it requires caution when working.

There are two ways to install drywall on a wall - with or without a frame. The second method is considered more complicated. Let's consider both options in detail.

How to properly attach drywall to a wall with a profile

Beautiful complex partitions and smooth surfaces are created on the basis of a special frame made of aluminum or galvanized steel profile. It slightly reduces the space of the room, but it hides all defects and unevenness of the walls, allows for additional insulation of the room and has high vapor permeability and sound absorption.

Required materials and tools

To work, you should study the step-by-step instructions, draw a sketch of the room indicating the dimensions and mark the location of the frame and panels, calculate the material consumption and prepare the following tools and materials:

• tape measure, level, ruler, pencil;
• hammer drill, drill with mixer attachment, screwdriver;
• dowels, self-tapping screws, screws;
• wooden blocks measuring 30x50cm or galvanized profile to create a frame, hangers, crabs;
• regular and rubber hammer, serpyanka;
• construction knife for cutting drywall;
• special glue based on cement or gypsum, a clean container for diluting it, a spatula;
• roller, brush and trowel, stepladder;
• putty for grouting seams and fastener heads;
• plasterboard sheets: for living rooms - gypsum boards, for bathrooms and kitchens - gypsum boards. To calculate the consumption of panels, you need to subtract the area of ​​window and door openings from the total area of ​​the walls and add 10–15% for possible waste. The panel length should be selected based on the ceiling height, 2.5 m or 3 m, so that the surface is covered with a single sheet.

Preparatory work

GKL sheets can be attached to various types of bases, each with its own technological features. Before installation work, it is necessary to prepare the surface. Here are the main stages of work:

1. Remove old finishes, remove dirt, dust and inspect the walls.
2. For the frame method, leveling the rough base is not required; it must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.
3. Using a tape measure, measure the dimensions of the wall and make markings indicating the exact locations of the profiles and hangers. The minimum thickness of the frame is 4.5 cm, a layer of insulation or unevenness on the walls adds thickness and marks the corresponding points on the ceiling and floor.
   On a wall with a window, markings should start there
4. Using a plumb line, draw vertical lines with a pitch of 60 cm - the places where the racks are attached. suspensions, and the distance from the upper and lower guides to the suspensions should be at least 25 cm.
5. To create a wooden sheathing, you should fill the slats with self-tapping screws or nails vertically in increments of 60 cm, placing veneer or plywood pads under them. Such a frame should be impregnated with an antiseptic.
6. Cut the aluminum profile into equal pieces. The UD guide profile is attached to the ceiling and floor, as well as to the walls with dowels in increments of 30–40 cm, verticality is checked with a plumb line. To ensure that the plane of the frame is at the same level, hangers are used; it is enough to fix each plank at two points.
   All electrical work is carried out before installing the frame
7. Fix the supporting profile strictly according to the markings, connecting the vertical and horizontal strips with special crabs. If necessary, the structure can be strengthened using horizontal jumpers from the CD profile.
   The walls are finished one by one - after installing the HA sheets on one wall they move to another

Fastening gypsum board sheets

Now you can begin covering the frame with plasterboard panels. This is done like this:

1. The first solid panel is fixed flush to the wall with two screws and its position is adjusted. Then screws are screwed in every 30 cm. To prevent the caps from sticking out and the panels from cracking, you need to retreat 1.5 cm from the edge and recess the screw by 1.5 mm. The 12 mm gap from the floor must be filled with putty after installation.
   The edge of the sheet should lie exactly in the middle of the rack profile
2. A series of solid sheets are attached end-to-end from the floor to the ceiling; cut pieces are used above the door and window openings, and the remaining areas are sewn up with them.
   The main thing is to understand the principle of operation
3. Putty all seams, screw heads, chips. Reinforcing mesh or tape is glued to the seams. Then the surface of the sheets is primed. For better adhesion when applying finishing.
   Primer is necessary for better adhesion when applying the finish.

To properly cut a sheet of plasterboard, you need to run a construction knife along the marking line, then break the panel, opening the ends, and cut off the cardboard layer on the back side.

How to attach gypsum boards without a profile

The second installation method is suitable for various materials of the rough base and for small or dark rooms; if the walls are relatively smooth and of the correct shape, then installing gypsum board with glue will be a good solution. A wall leveled using the adhesive method will last at least 15 years. There are limitations to the frameless method:

• It is not recommended to attach gypsum boards to constantly damp surfaces where moisture penetrates from a foundation with poor waterproofing or leaks from a leaky roof;
• if the thickness of the building walls is calculated incorrectly, then condensation will form on the inside; in this case, drywall is attached only to the frame;
• if differences on uneven walls are more than 40 mm.

Mounting features

The frameless method of fixation is simpler and faster, but it requires more careful preparation of the rough base. The consumption of sheets will be equal in both cases, and the consumption of the adhesive composition depends on the unevenness of the walls. When differences exceed 40 mm, the frame method is used. Let us consider in detail the intricacies of attaching gypsum boards to the most popular base materials.

To a wooden surface

Wooden surfaces are usually smooth; differences and protrusions can be corrected with a plane, and depressions can be filled with thin planks. The problem of wood rotting and burning is easily solved by treating it with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

Experienced builders recommend attaching drywall to wooden walls without using glue using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. Screw in with a screwdriver without recessing in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 25–30 cm from each other. The caps are manually carefully recessed into the surface by 1.5 mm and puttied.

Towards a concrete wall

Concrete is porous and highly absorbent. To reduce glue consumption, primer treatment is necessary, which will increase adhesion and fill pores and microcracks.

The adhesive used is starting putty mixed with PVA glue or gypsum in a ratio of 1:10 or special dry glue for working with plasterboard. You will also need dowels 80–120 mm long. To dilute the glue, first pour water into a container, dilute PVA glue in it, and then add dry powder and stir with a mixer.

If the wall is relatively flat:

To the brick wall

Brickwork has unevenness and brittleness that add difficulty to the job. In this case, it is advisable to fasten the plasterboard with hardware 6x80 mm, 8x10 mm or driven dowels with a length of at least 80 mm and glue.

For novice specialists, a suitable method is to place beacons from pieces of the same drywall, which will act as a frame and help accurately level the plane of the sheet.

Liquid nails and polyurethane foam are also used as an adhesive composition. The beacons can be flat cakes made of thick glue; they are applied in increments of 40 cm. When the sheet is pressed and tapped with a rubber hammer, they themselves will take the required size and be distributed in the cavity.

To a foam block wall

To finely level the foam concrete, it is enough to remove small irregularities using a hammer drill with a chisel attachment. Gypsum is processed in the same way.

The fastening technology is similar to fixing it on a wooden wall. Antiseptic impregnation will protect the base from biological damage, and the sheets should be kept indoors for at least a day to stabilize the temperature and humidity conditions. According to the markings, attach the plasterboard to the wall, first fix it at the diagonal corners, align it strictly vertically, and then screw in hardware measuring 3.9x45 mm in 30 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

First, you should carefully inspect the wall and identify defects that will prevent a tight fit and reliable fixation of the sheets, and then take the following steps:

1. Knock down the layers of plaster and the old finish, otherwise, under the weight of the drywall, the plaster may fall off during use and the entire repair will have to be redone. Then clean the surface from dust and dirt using a brush and a damp cloth.
   The wall should be thoroughly cleaned. Instead of putty, you can use cement-sand mortar
2. Mark the wall in accordance with the drawing or sketch. It is necessary to leave a damping gap of 5–10 mm from the floor and ceiling. This will provide air access for ventilation and hardening of the glue, and will also protect the gypsum board sheets from warping during temperature and humidity fluctuations; mark the attachment points with self-tapping screws.
   The red dotted lines show how sheets should not be divided.

How to fix drywall

Now you can begin installing the gypsum boards:

The frameless method saves money and time, while the frame method allows you to create fancy architectural forms. In both cases, you will get perfectly even and smooth walls, ready for finishing, which will last for many years and do not require special care.

Drywall is a universal material that is used in various types of repair work. It makes it possible to change the state of space in a short time. But the budget will be quite optimistic. That’s why drywall is so popular; virtually anyone can learn to work with it.

In this case, it all depends on the type of drywall - the smaller the distance between the supports, the more durable the sheet will be. In this case, gluing would be the best option. This method is not always suitable, so a metal profile is used.

There are building regulations that require:

• For wall gypsum, support strips must be installed at least every 40 cm;
• Moisture-resistant plasterboard requires an interval every 60 cm;
• Ceiling plasterboard - for it you need to assemble a mesh from a profile, the cell size of which is no more than 40 by 40 cm.

But it is not enough that you install the planks with a reference step.

It is very important to correctly make holes for the screws. If you screw them in very often, then the integrity of the sheet will be compromised, it will crumble and fall out. If there are few fasteners, then the consequences will be the same.

How and how to properly attach drywall with your own hands

It is recommended to carry out all installation work using appropriate types of screws. And there are only two of them - metal screws and drywall screws. The first type of screws is divided into two subtypes: metal-to-metal and metal-to-wood. Metal-to-metal is needed to connect profiles. The screw at the end is equipped with a special drill, which easily allows you to connect the elements to each other.

Black phosphated coated screws are suitable for fastening drywall. It reduces friction, firstly, and secondly, it protects against corrosion. When cutting through drywall, the seam will not destroy the structure of the plaster.

Installation process: how to attach drywall, step-by-step instructions

Installation of drywall will consist of four stages - these are measurements and drawings, assembly of the frame, installation of insulation and soundproofing material, installation of the drywall itself.

Taking measurements and drawing a plan of how you see the future structure is very important.

If you plan to fix the drywall only on the wall, it is enough to show the frame on the plan.

Frame assembly:

• First, guides are installed - a wide U-shaped profile, it is attached to the bottom and top of the wall, or along the perimeter of the ceiling. They need to be installed perfectly straight.
• If a gap forms between the profile and the wall, you need to insert thick cardboard or wood into it.
• Depending on the frame, the guides need to be secured with dowels at intervals of 30 cm from each other. After installing the guides, the frame is installed.

First, one corner sheet is installed, which is secured with one screw. Then comes the level check and fixing the second self-tapping screw to the cross. Then the sheet is “squeezed” around the perimeter. Then the sheet is screwed to the supporting strips. This procedure requires sequential execution.

What you need to attach drywall to the ceiling

Examples: how to attach drywall (video)

Fastening drywall is a simple technology if you don’t do it yourself. Correct fastenings, a good frame, tools, parts, and the work will not seem difficult to you.

Happy renovation!