DIY kitchen installation dimensions. Installing kitchen furniture with your own hands. Assembling drawers

19.04.2018

Hello, friends.

What is an independent one, and what is its general algorithm? We will talk about this today in this article.

But before we talk about installation, I’ll say a few words about what should be done the day before.

And the day before, all kitchen modules should be assembled and packed as much as possible for transportation (they are usually packed in a special film that protects them from scratches). All facades must be hung on them (at first the facades do not need to be adjusted - they will be adjusted at the end of the installation itself), handles must be hung on the facades, etc. In a word, everything that can be done before installing the headset must be done.

The room itself must be completely ready for installation. This means, if repairs were made to it, then:

• The floors must be made (the installation area for the kitchen unit, you can no longer crawl under its supports)
• The working wall made of tiles (if any) must be laid
• All old furniture located at the kitchen installation site must be removed from the premises
• There must be working sockets in the room (or somewhere nearby for connecting a portable device)
• All built-in appliances must be available (sink, hob, oven, hood)
• As a guide, at least a whole day should be allocated for the installation of a kitchen unit.

When all the above conditions are met, it is delivered (disassembled, of course) to the installation site.

Any kitchen is usually installed from lower modules. If this is a corner kitchen, then installation always starts from the corner (corner modules are installed first).

Before installing the modules, all facades are removed from them.

Having aligned the lower modules and fastened them together with coupling bolts, they need to be aligned “level” using adjustable supports. The modules are displayed, taking into account all the gaps (relative to the walls and relative to the countertop) that are taken into account in the project.

After all the lower modules are exposed, the tabletop is “adjusted” to them. When the countertop is fitted and aligned, the sink and hob fit into it. Then the tabletop is installed on the lower modules and secured.

When the lower base of the kitchen is installed, the level of the upper modules is measured, holes are marked on the wall for canopies for the upper modules.

Then the upper modules are hung, adjusted “by level”, and tightened together with the same tightening bolts.

When the lower and upper bases of the kitchen set are installed, the plinth is installed (on the countertop), the facades are hung and adjusted, and, in general, that’s it, the kitchen is installed.

The owner connects water and gas to the equipment. I especially don’t recommend messing with water, because if something is done incorrectly and the kitchen floods, it will be your own fault. And it’s stupid, to say the least, to do a lot of work and then screw it all up.

If you plan to attach an apron made of MDF, chipboard or plastic to the working wall (wall panel), then it is attached at the very beginning (before installing the lower modules).

That's all, see you later!

• Preparing for the main process
• Assembling regular bedside tables
• Assembling cabinets with drawers
• Installation of headset parts

A new kitchen set is an important moment for any housewife. After all, it is in the kitchen that a person has the opportunity to both realize himself and feel like himself. A new kitchen set is usually delivered to customers' homes in disassembled form. Therefore, it is also necessary to assemble it correctly.

But in our time, assembly with the help of furniture makers is not always carried out with high quality and as it should be. After all, most workers are in a hurry to assemble and install furniture as quickly as possible, without spending significant effort on the process itself. But not only the decorative appearance and ease of use of pieces of furniture, but also personal safety directly depend on the quality of assembly and installation. After all, if you hang a cabinet poorly, it can fall off the wall at any moment.

Preparing for the main process

It is for these reasons that many people prefer to install kitchen units with their own hands, without involving specialists. And they do it right. After all, it is not difficult for any man to do this work with his own hands if he follows some useful tips. The whole process is divided into three main stages: the preparation stage, the assembly stage and the stage of fastening and installation of the kitchen set. Let's look at everything in detail and in order.

Figure 1. Diagonal measurements are carried out using a tape measure or a long ruler.

First you need to prepare for the furniture assembly process. To do this, purchase in advance all the materials and tools necessary for the work. This will provide significant time savings during the work process. You will definitely need:

• building level;
• screwdriver with various attachments;
• electric drill;
• tape measure and pencil for marking;
• self-tapping screws;
• hammer;
• furniture stapler;
• nails;
• wood glue and a thin brush;
• a set of all necessary accessories for furniture, which always comes with the furniture.

It is advisable to immediately check the presence of all the necessary fittings and fasteners using the assembly diagram that comes with the furniture set. If you don’t have something, you definitely need to buy it. Before work, you need to free up as much space in the room as possible so that assembly can be carried out unhindered. The floor should be freed, if possible, from carpet and linoleum. And be sure to cover it with a thick tarpaulin, burlap, or several layers of polyethylene so that nothing gets caught or scratched during assembly.

Immediately, without waiting for the furniture to be assembled, prepare access in the kitchen to the installation locations for the furniture. In this case, it is advisable to pay the greatest attention to all kinds of pipes, washing and hood. It is very important that all this is in good condition, otherwise if there is a leak, the furniture can be seriously damaged. When you do this, unpack the furniture, study the drawing and start assembling.

Return to contents

Assembling regular bedside tables

Figure 2. The rails should be spaced close together so that there are no gaps between the boxes.

Since you need to assemble the set directly according to the drawing, this will not cause you any particular difficulties. As a rule, the assembly process occurs one by one for each individual piece of furniture. Therefore, unpack one by one so as not to get confused later. We begin to consider the process of assembling furniture from ordinary bedside tables and drawers.

At the beginning of work, using a pencil and tape measure, be sure to take measurements according to the marking diagram where the connections and fastenings of the parts will be located. Now, using a screwdriver and screws, we fasten the bottom of the cabinet and the side walls, and then fasten its upper part. The space that remains free inside is checked diagonally with a tape measure (Fig. 1). If they differ from each other by more than 2.5 mm, this problem must be resolved immediately. Usually everything falls into place either after lightly tapping it with a hammer (preferably a rubber one), or after driving the screws deeper, or, conversely, by unscrewing them a little outward. The correct location of the upper part is checked with a building level.

After this, you can mark the locations for the door hinges and install them. We put the doors on the hinges, which are then adjusted when the cabinet is installed in a vertical position using the force of screwing in the screws, which can even be done with an ordinary screwdriver or chisel, depending on the screw head. After this, you can attach the tabletop to the upper part, which is best done using self-tapping screws. All you have to do is attach furniture legs or wheels, which is also done using self-tapping screws.

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Assembling cabinets with drawers

Figure 3. The distance from the countertop to the cabinet is usually 500-600 mm.

Things are a little different with the cabinet for drawers. Here, before fastening the bottom to the sides, the so-called rails (Fig. 2) on which these boxes will ride are immediately marked and fastened on their inner part. All this must be done extremely carefully, constantly taking measurements. After all, the slightest deviation can cause a distortion, as a result of which the boxes will move quite poorly. Also, carefully calculate the distance between the rails so that large gaps do not form between the boxes in the future and so that they are not very tightly located on top of each other. After all, in the end everything should work freely without much effort.

Before installing the fastenings for the drawers, it is advisable to immediately assemble the drawers themselves for the cabinet. To do this, markings are made on the back side of the front of the drawer for fastening the walls and for installing the handle. The side, back and front walls are connected to each other using screws. But it may also happen (in cheaper headsets) that the pin is connected to the hole. Then the markings are usually already made, and you just have to pour wood glue into the hole, where you will then secure the walls with tenons. In this case, it is advisable to additionally secure everything from below with a powerful construction stapler or nails when you nail the bottom.

Make sure that 90-degree angles are maintained everywhere during installation. When assembled correctly, all parts should fit perfectly together. Now all you have to do is attach the handle to the front, which is also done in most cases using screws (depending on the specific type of handle). Now just slide the drawers into the cabinet: if everything works well, then the assembly is done correctly. If not, then you will have to make adjustments with a hammer, and if that doesn’t work, unscrew everything again and reinsert the guide “rails”.

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Installation of headset parts

Figure 4. The rail for the kitchen unit is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws.

In this way, all the details of the kitchen set are assembled. Once this is done, the DIY begins. You need to start with markings. So, first place one cabinet on the floor, and measure 50 cm or 60 cm up from it, depending on what is more convenient for you (Fig. 3). Place a dot in this place and draw a straight line. This line will show the lower level of the wall unit. Now the full height of the wall cabinet is added to this line, the dot is placed again and a straight line is drawn again. This strip will indicate the upper level of installation of hanging furniture.

Now we install the entire set that will be below. To do this, if necessary, immediately cut in the rear walls with a jigsaw or file places for the passage of pipes. And we treat the cut areas with silicone sealant to prevent them from crumbling and deformation from moisture getting into the thickness of the wood. During installation, we immediately check everything with a building level, and in case of distortions (and this often happens, since the floors in the rooms are often uneven), we tighten the legs so that all the furniture stands level. As a last resort, you can place special rubber pads under the legs, which are sold in the store.

Now we place specific points on the top strip on the wall where the hooks for hanging cabinets will be located. Just first measure the distance from the tabletop to the bottom base of the hanging drawer and to the top line again, and if necessary, adjust the markings.

Now we proceed to installing the mount for the kitchen set. There are two main types of fasteners: a special metal bus, for which holes are made in the right places, dowels are driven in, after which the bus is applied and self-tapping screws are driven in (Fig. 4). Then the cabinet is hung on the bus.

The second option is installation on special hooks. To do this, we drill a hole, drive in plastic dowels, screw metal hooks into them very tightly, onto which we then put the cabinet. For more reliable fastening, if the cabinet is heavy enough, there may be not two, but four hooks: two on top and two on the bottom.

So, the DIY kitchen installation is complete!

Features of the assembly and installation of the main standard structures were discussed here.

There is nothing complicated when working with custom cabinets. It will just take you a little longer. But if you strictly follow the drawing, then everything will definitely work out, and you will be confident in the reliability of assembling and installing the furniture yourself.

A beautiful, comfortable kitchen should include many details. A prerequisite is the presence of a kitchen set that contains all the dishes, kitchen utensils, bulk products and household appliances. This is exactly how multifunctional a kitchen set should be. But it’s one thing to choose and purchase furniture in a store. And it’s completely different to install cabinets and pencil cases in the kitchen. Of course, in any furniture store, customers will be offered the services of craftsmen. But, installing a kitchen unit is not such a difficult matter. Therefore, any man can successfully cope with this task.

Aids

To assemble the parts of a kitchen unit into a single structure with your own hands, you need to prepare auxiliary devices that will help you cope with the task. To work you will need:

• Drilling tool, screwdriver.
• A carpenter's jigsaw that will help cut the tabletop.
• Screwdriver, hexagon.
• Set of strips for joints and decorative trim plinths.

Stages of work

Do-it-yourself installation of the headset begins with attaching cabinets and drawers at the bottom of the structure. First of all, install the body part, to which shelves and drawers are attached. In order for the cabinets to be connected into a single strong base, they need to be fastened with metal ties and corners. Then, be sure to check how tightly the cabinet adheres to the wall. To prevent the top edges from crumbling, they should be protected with a silicone-based sealant.

The next step is the installation of facades using metal hinges, which are screwed with self-tapping screws. Remember that before you begin installing the kitchen unit, you should take care of the drainage and water pipes. Gas and electricity are also supplied in advance.

Installation of sink and countertop

The kitchen sink is installed by cutting into the surface of the countertop. Preliminary measurements and markings are made corresponding to the size of the sink. The hole for the sink is cut with a jigsaw. To properly fix the sink, know the design features.

There are two types of sinks:

• With fastening on top of the cabinet before installing the tabletop.
• With fastening after installation of the tabletop.

However, in both cases, utility networks must be installed before installation work begins.

Installation and assembly of kitchen units in the photo involves the installation of a countertop. The dimensions of this element should be 1-1.5 cm larger on the front and end sides than the lower cabinets. The remaining gaps between the table top and the wall are covered with a decorative plinth.

Protecting the work wall

Any kitchen has an apron - a wall between the countertop and the upper cabinets. No matter how carefully the housewife prepares food, the apron area becomes contaminated with droplets of fat. To protect the wall, many people tile it. But another option is also possible - to purchase a kitchen set with ready-made panels to protect the working wall. Such panels are simply attached using dowels. The color of protective screens can be very different. But, it is wiser to purchase panels that match the colors of the kitchen set.

Upper cabinets

The assembly of the kitchen set continues with the installation of wall cabinets. To secure the cabinet, you first need to assemble it. Typically, cabinets are delivered to the consumer in disassembled form: a separate body and hanging facades. To secure the cabinet part, it is necessary to apply markings at a level of 60 cm from the table top.

Having marked this distance with a flat, horizontal line, we mark the place where the lower part of the cabinets is attached. To determine the mounting point, you need to measure the height of each cabinet.

As soon as the upper horizontal line is drawn, you can attach the strip necessary for fixing the cabinets along it. The plank is fixed to the wall using dowels, and then plumb lines are fixed to the plank. And on the back wall of each cabinet there are hooks. After hanging, you should check that the upper part of the headset fits tightly to the wall. Then the facades are attached to the body.

In order for the installation of the kitchen unit according to the video to go flawlessly, you should start with the installation of corner cabinets. After assembling it yourself and installing the structure, you need to tighten each element with special tightening clamps. If, after following this recommendation, there are still gaps and cracks between the cabinets, we cover them with special decorative plinths.

To finish the end parts, plugs and beautiful, elegant corners are used.

In custody

In order for the assembly of the kitchen unit to go smoothly, it is necessary to carry out the installation step by step. First, the dimensions for installing the kitchen unit are determined. Then a marking is created that will clearly show where and how each structural element will be located. If the walls in the kitchen are lined with plasterboard, you should take care of special fasteners that will secure the cabinets to the wall. Having prepared everything you need, you can begin the step-by-step installation work.

You may encounter many non-obvious nuances, which we tried to describe in the first part of the article. But what lies ahead is the installation of a headset, which may puzzle you with its pitfalls.

How does the installation work?

Before hanging cabinets and installing tables, you need to take care of choosing the right furniture fittings.

Fittings include bolts, screws, hinges, handles, shelf supports, drawer guides - everything that is not made of chipboard.

Let's start with the main point: confirmation screws. Such screws are often called “Euroscrews”, and they can be purchased at any furniture hardware store. This screw is tightened with a special hex key or hex bit for a screwdriver.

The choice of handles rests entirely with you: in any accessories catalog you can find dozens and hundreds of their varieties, and depending on the color of the facade you will have to choose the appropriate handle option.

Loops are also an important point. Exactly The quality of the hinges determines whether the doors will open smoothly, how long will the hinges themselves last and will they withstand the load. The standard option is loops with a “cup” diameter of 35 millimeters. For each door up to 800 millimeters long, it is enough to install two hinges.

It must be said that drilling a facade for hinges at home is not an easy process, and even if you find and buy a special cutter, you will need an assistant when drilling with a drill. The facade must be held firmly, and when drilling, press the drill hard enough so that the cutter does not tear out pieces of chipboard.

If you have no experience in such matters, practice on scraps of chipboard: with manual drilling it is easy to pierce the facade right through, so it is better to order this work from professionals: drilling one hole costs about 30 rubles.

If you decide to do this yourself, pay attention to the photo:

Note: This is a reliable photo that shows the main thing: the distance from the edge to the BEGINNING of the hole is strictly 4 millimeters.

The best option is 12 centimeters from the top (or bottom) edge to the CENTER of the hole.

We'll hit the sink

As a small digression, let us explain some points regarding the choice of sink. This is not a fitting, but a full-fledged element of any kitchen.

The sink can be either overhead or mortise, and they differ in both cost and appearance. Built-in sinks look more representative and are mounted directly into the countertop itself.

An electric jigsaw is used to cut a hole for the sink, but it is impossible to give clear instructions on how to insert a sink: there are many manufacturers of sinks, and each of them makes bowls in accordance with their own ideas about the correct design.

Therefore, it is best to use the instructions included with the sink or study materials related to installation, which can be found directly on the manufacturers’ websites.

Otherwise - from configuration to size - the choice of sink will depend on your tastes and financial capabilities.

What to do with all this?!

So, all the modules are assembled, the fittings are installed, the facades are secured, which means you can proceed to the last and most important stage: installation.

Let us immediately note that you will need an assistant for installation, but you don’t need to invite all your friends: one person is enough, and a large number of people will not speed up the process and will only create chaos in which everyone will interfere with each other.

You will need the following tools:

• Stepladder or stool;
• Hammer;
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (or better yet, a screwdriver with interchangeable bits);
• Pliers and a chisel (just in case);
• Jigsaw and hand saw for metal;
• Construction level (the longer the better);
• Tape measure, ruler and pencil;
• Electric impact drill (ideally, a drill and a hammer drill separately);
• Wood drills of various diameters (many of them can be useful in different specific cases);
• Pobedit drills with a diameter of 8 millimeters (for drilling walls);
• Dowels complete with screws for them (dowel size – 8x60 millimeters);
• Wrenches (may not be useful, but it's better to have);
• Silicone sealant;
• Special tie bolts.

Get to work!

Installation always starts from the bottom of the headset. Tables must be level. The vast majority of headsets are made on adjustable support legs, which allow you to easily raise or lower tables.

If you designed tables with a common solid tabletop, it should be fastened after all the tables are level, but before that it is better to tighten the tables using tie bolts. The sink should already be attached to the countertop.

After this, you can begin hanging the cabinets. For this we need a stepladder. One person climbs onto the tables along it and, together with an assistant who remains below and helps, lifts the cabinet. The classic option for fastening cabinets is corner brackets, which should already be attached to the cabinet.

In this case, you need to outline the holes of the bracket ears with a pencil while an assistant holds the cabinet from below.

If the cabinet is equipped with internal brackets, it is immediately hung on a special metal rail, which is pre-attached to the wall.

If the kitchen is corner, installation begins with a corner cabinet, and it must be leveled. You can read about the design of a corner kitchen with a bar counter.

In the case of a straight kitchen, cabinets also begin to be hung from the corner. The average cabinet, 800 millimeters wide, weighs approximately 12-15 kilograms, but is extremely inconvenient to lift.

A mandatory component of the kitchen unit installation process is precise adjustment.
By making the correct adjustments, your cabinet doors will open properly and last longer.

In order to make the task easier, you can first remove the shelf from it, if it is inset, or even remove the fronts, but two men, even those who are not athletic, can easily cope with this task without removing the door.

After the cabinets are hung, what remains is the last but important step: adjusting the facades.

The fact is that the installed modules can become skewed: this mainly happens if the furniture is not installed level.

Adjustment is carried out using a screwdriver, the photographs show in detail which hinge screws are responsible for the adjustment, and this process is clearly presented in the video on installing the headset.

How much?

That's all: the kitchen set is installed and washed, the doors are adjusted and the furniture is pleasing to the eye. But let's see how much the materials cost, and how profitable was it to spend a few days of your life on this exciting, but not the most difficult activity?

Let's look at the cost of a kitchen unit using an example:

The cost of the presented straight and not the most complex headset with a width of 280 centimeters in the store is about 37,000 rubles.

• This set took about one and a half sheets of chipboard. One sheet of chipboard costs 1,050 rubles, the cost of cutting at the rate of 120 rubles per square meter was approximately the same. Result - 3000 rubles invested in the material. The cost of the softforming facade used is approximately 900 rubles per sheet 2.5 meters long. This set took about 10 meters of the facade, so its cost was 3,600 rubles.
• The retail price of the melamine edge used for gluing is 3 rubles per linear meter. The total cost of the edge used was approximately 220 rubles.
• The total cost of fittings, including euroscrews (retail price 80 kopecks per piece), hinges (50 rubles per piece) as well as glass, decor, sink and handles, amounted to about 3,500 rubles. Due to their low cost, we will not take components such as shelf holders and support legs into account; besides, the price of fittings in general can vary greatly in different regions, and therefore there is no point in focusing on the cost of fittings.
• Another optional expense item is tools. If we assume that you have an impact drill, you can subtract 6,000 rubles from the estimate.
• Let’s not forget about the delivery of the material, which can cost from 500 to 1,500 rubles depending on the distance and the total cost of such services in each region.
• Let's not forget about the friend who helped with the installation, who also needs to be thanked with money or a bottle of good cognac.

Below is a table detailing the costs at all stages of the work.

conclusions

As a result, it turns out that If you manufacture such a headset yourself, its cost will be a maximum of 15,000 rubles. Of course, it’s no secret that companies specializing in the manufacture of cabinet furniture mark up prices by up to 200 percent.

In our case it turned out a little less, but the difference is noticeable. And now that you've spent a few days making your kitchen set, you can answer the question: is the game really worth the candle?

After completing your kitchen renovation, you will probably decide to buy a new kitchen set. As a rule, stores provide assembly services for an additional fee. But why pay money when you can save? After all, assembling a kitchen with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

To assemble the kitchen yourself, you will need a minimal set of tools.

• • A screwdriver - any one will do, even the cheapest one. Its presence will significantly simplify the assembly process.
  • A hammer drill with a set of drills and an adapter for a drill with a wood drill. This is needed if you want to hang cabinets on a concrete wall. For wooden walls, you can also use a screwdriver with a drill.
  • A hacksaw or jigsaw to cut off the tabletop.
  • You also need to have a hex key for installing furniture fasteners; some manufacturers add it to the hardware kit.
  • And, of course, standard tools that should be in every home: a hammer, a corner, a level, a knife-cutter, a tape measure and pliers.

Kitchen assembly process

If you have never assembled furniture before, be sure to read the standard instructions before assembling the kitchen. It schematically shows which parts are used for what, and also indicates the order of work.

If you screw a part into the wrong place, you will have to disassemble it, and this will reduce the strength of the connection. This is especially true for cheap cabinets made from chipboard modules; often their doors are torn out along with the roots.

• • First of all, a cross-shaped mount for the doors is attached to the side boards. They are screwed with two self-tapping screws into pre-prepared holes.
  • Attach rails for sliding cabinets to the side walls; later this will be inconvenient.
  • Then wooden choppers (also often called dowels or wooden dowels) are inserted into all blind holes to make the initial fasteners. These parts help to assemble a more even frame and also increase the strength of the structure. It is best to plant them with glue. Insert a dowel into one hole, put the second one on its end and squeeze them together.

• Then, making sure that the parts are located evenly, screw in a furniture screw using a hexagon, it will finally tighten the two parts. A plastic plug is placed on top to match the color of the furniture.
• Next, if there are legs, screw them into place and adjust the height. In cheap kitchens, instead of adjustable legs, there are usually ordinary plastic attachments, which are nailed to the bottom so as not to damage the panels.
• After assembling the cabinet, nail a sheet of fiberboard onto the side wall.
• Mounting hardware must be secured to wall cabinets. Typically, adjustable awnings are now used for this purpose. They are attached to the side walls of the cabinet close to the top corners.

The process of assembling the wall cabinet can be seen in this video:

Assembling drawers

• • The walls for the drawers themselves are assembled in the same way as the cabinets - they are tightened with screws.
  • Assemble 3 walls and insert a sheet of fiberboard into the bottom.
  • Then the front of the box is secured. An eccentric tie is usually used for this.

• To attach it, first screw the screw into the facade, and then insert the end with the cap into the holes on the side walls. On the side parts there is a large round hole inside the cabinet - a socket for the bushing. You need to insert the sleeve into the hole and turn it so that it grabs the screw head that will go on the side. To make it easier to understand its structure, just look at the mounting diagram in the photo.
• Next, screw the roller guides onto the lower corners of the drawer. The roller on the drawer guide should be located at the back, and on the inside - at the front.
• Then simply insert the guides into each other at an angle, and the assembly of the drawer is complete.

Kitchen installation

Let's proceed to the second stage - installing the kitchen in place. We are not hanging the doors yet, they will get in the way.

• First of all, a side cabinet is installed, usually a sink. To allow pipes to pass here, make holes in the hardboard wall in advance.
• Then the following floor cabinets are installed. They are immediately adjustable in height and, if necessary, cuts are made in them.
• After installing all the cabinets, tie them together. To do this, use 30 mm self-tapping screws or an intersectional furniture tie. The second option is more reliable, since the screws have too small heads and can come out along with the roots. It will be enough to have 4 ties for floor cabinets and 2 pieces for wall cabinets.

Sink mount

• • If you decide to install a built-in sink, you need to make a round hole in the countertop. To embed the sink into the countertop, mark and drill a large round hole. Next, according to the markings, cut off the tabletop with a jigsaw and screw it onto the special fasteners that come with the kit.
  • It is most convenient to do this before attaching the tabletop. Don't forget to seal the joint along the edge with sealant!

You definitely need an assistant who can support the tabletop when cutting, otherwise the piece will fall off and tear off part of the coating. To do this job yourself, you can first apply masking tape to the countertop. After you saw off the round hole, the piece will remain hanging on the tape.

• Fastening the built-in plate occurs in the same way, but it is better to do it at the end so as not to damage the equipment.
• Installing a regular sink on a cabinet is much easier. You just need to screw it on from the bottom with self-tapping screws.

Fastening the table top

• • Mark the tabletop, adding a 1 mm overlap from the edges, or attach it flush to the wall. It’s okay if there is a gap in the wall, you can then hide it with a plinth.
  • Use a fine-tooth jigsaw to cut the tabletop to size.
  • In a corner kitchen, the tabletops are joined using a special metal strip that closes the gap between the two tables. It is screwed onto the end of the tabletop.
  • Be sure to cover the ends of the stove with a finishing metal strip. In places where there is no heat, you can use it for this purpose. It is glued using a hair dryer onto a smooth and clean cutting surface.

• • When securing the tabletop, install it with an allowance of about 3 cm in front so that the edges are flush. Fastening occurs from below using self-tapping screws.

Attaching the wall panel

• • If you decide not to make a glass, tile or mosaic splashback in your kitchen, there is a good and quick way to protect the work surface from moisture and grease - wall panels. They are usually sold in sizes of 3 m in length and allow you to quickly and reliably protect the space above the kitchen table.
  • The panels are fastened using regular dowels. The hats are hidden by cabinets, so when marking, take this into account and leave an allowance. The dowels should be placed approximately 1 cm from the edge of the panel.

Wall cabinets must be mounted at least 60 cm above the countertop, otherwise it will be inconvenient to cook.

• To cut a hole for the socket, you will need a special drill attachment - a crown.

Fastening wall cabinets

• Step back at least 60 cm from the tabletop and make a mark on the walls. Step back from it to the height of the cabinets and draw a line for their fastening.
• Drill holes and secure the bar (tire). You will hang adjustable hangers on it. Fastening to the wall with anchors is more reliable than with dowel-nails.
• Hang the cabinet on the rail using the hooks. To ensure that the cabinet hangs level and close to the wall, adjust the 2 bolts on the hangers by tightening or loosening them.
• Start installation from a corner. If the wall is uneven or has an angle of less than 90 degrees, then you will need to attach a false panel to hide the gap.
• After installation, secure the cabinets with zip ties.

Door fastening

• • Now you can hang the doors on the cabinets. To do this, secure the hinges with self-tapping screws into the round recesses on the facade.
  • Place the door on the cross-shaped plates that you screwed in at the very beginning and tighten the bolts.
  • Then close the door and check its position. Adjust it horizontally and vertically using two bolts.

Final work

We close the gap between the table and the wall by installing a plastic plinth. Its first part is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, and a decorative attachment is snapped on top. Special caps are used to decorate corners. Typically, hidden wiring can be placed inside the baseboard.
Next, household appliances are installed. For a gas stove, fix the hood at a height of 75-85 cm, and for an electric stove - 65-75 cm. To hide it in the cabinet, provide a hole for the air duct in the upper wall of the cabinet in advance.

Conclusion

Now you know how to assemble a kitchen with your own hands, and you can do it without difficulty. The main thing is to approach the assembly carefully, as the Russian proverb says: “Measure seven times, cut once.” It is because of insufficient measurements that most mistakes are made by inexperienced craftsmen.

• Headset price: $1270
• Square:
• Layout:
• Furniture color:
• Facades: Plastic
• Style:
• An association: -
• Floor: Tile
• Backsplash: Tile
• Ceiling: -

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In general, I had to do something about it, and I decided to move the washing machine to the other end of the room and place it between the gas stove and the wall near the window. According to the previously taken measurements, everything came out perfectly: the width of the cabinet that needed to be removed was 40 cm, the washing machine was 40 cm. However, during the process of dismantling the cabinet, a heating pipe appeared at the junction of the floor and wall, which prevented the installation of the washing machine in the niche. and if a wooden cabinet is easily trimmed, then naturally nothing can be done with the machine. I had to hastily build a small pedestal (at the height of the pipe) and install the machine on it, but even then everything was very clear - it was time for repairs.

As it turned out later, the machine not only started this inevitable process, but also became, perhaps, the main element that influenced the design and choice of design for the future kitchen.

Initial data

So, what did I have at the start of this whole event? A kitchen with an area of ​​6.2 m2 (according to the technical passport), which has not had any, not even cosmetic, repairs done for many years. The kitchen set has generally been like this since the time the house was commissioned, and this is already almost 40 years. The window frame is old, wooden. The refrigerator is old and needs replacing. The gas stove is relatively new, but does not meet the wife’s requirements.

In general, of what was supposed to be taken from the old kitchen and transferred to the new one, only the microwave and the washing machine mentioned in the prologue remained.

It only remains to add that the old layout of the kitchen and the arrangement of all the elements on it always seemed terribly inconvenient to me, not practical and not rational, and therefore I began to fight for every centimeter, for every piece of free space, and, looking ahead, I want to admit, that I succeeded.

General provisions

I won’t discover America if I note that before you start, you need to create a design for the room as a whole. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the room, as well as the position of existing communications. Thoughtless placement of lights, sockets, water and sewage distribution, ventilation and other things in the early stages of renovation, as a rule, does not make itself felt, but closer to the finish line it can be very noticeable, violating both the aesthetics and functionality of the room . So if you are not a professional, but consider yourself a “do-it-yourselfer” and believe in your abilities, then start the repair by studying the basic data, so to speak, the truisms. Search the Internet and study articles from the category “20 common mistakes when designing a kitchen”, “”, “a”, etc. From them it will become clear what standard furniture sizes exist, what kitchen facades are, at what height a wall-mounted row of cabinets is hung and what distance is recommended to be kept between it and the floor row.

Well, in order to finally start “drawing” cabinets on paper, you must either purchase all large free-standing and built-in household appliances in advance, or clearly understand and know their installation dimensions and take them into account in the design. Why this is needed should be clear.

Design

Let's return specifically to my kitchen. As I already wrote above, the choice of the concept of my set was influenced by a washing machine, the main feature of which is the vertical loading of laundry. That is, unlike most washing machines, my “working” plane is the top plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. This is how the idea of ​​a corner kitchen was born, where the sides of the corner are cabinets and the top is the machine. This arrangement is the most rational and provides maximum functionality.

In the photo above you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill because I planned to fit a tabletop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks for household appliances were installed. Later, tiles were laid on the floor and walls, and wallpaper was hung. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.

I started drawing the kitchen in AutoCAD because I wasn’t trained in any PRO100, and I didn’t set myself such an initial goal. Although I will not hide that if you master this specialized program, then in the future it will, based on your finished dimensions of the cabinets, itself carry out their detailing and even suggest the optimal fastening element. My AutoCAD drawing turned out to be much simpler, but at the same time quite visual.

Editor's note: you could also use . No special knowledge is required to use - just take it and draw.

Let's go over the main points regarding the cabinets I got:

• I decided to place the floor row on decorative aluminum legs, with the ability to adjust them in height. In my opinion, aesthetically it looks better than a solid base, and besides, there remains (albeit limited) access under the cabinets (for a mop or rag, for visual inspection for leaks from the water supply or sewerage system). The presence of decorative legs must be taken into account when further detailing the cabinets (see detailing).
• The facades of cabinets 1 and 5.6 (in fact, this is one cabinet, like 2.3, I just thought in its original form that it would be two cabinets, and already left the numbering as is, so as not to change) will open upward using gas elevators.

• The facade of the drying cabinet (2.3) will open upward using the Aventos HF system.

• The doors of cabinets 4 (above the washing machine) and 8 (under the sink) will be hinged on regular door hinges with a closer.
• An oven will be built into cabinet 9, so it will be hollow, with only a small drawer underneath for storing baking sheets and a grill grate.
• Cabinets 10.1-10.3 are three identical cabinets with drawers that will be secured with intersection bolts. Why drawers and not just shelves? The fact is that the contents of the retractable drawer are easy to glance at. To get to things located in the depths, you don’t have to carry out archaeological excavations. Shelves often turn into a “cemetery” of dishes and supplies, which the owners simply forget about.

Detailing and fittings

Let's imagine that the dimensions of your cabinet should be 600x700x300 mm. You take and order parts 600 mm wide, 700 mm high and 300 mm deep, and then try to fit them. Naturally, you won’t get anything good out of it, because you don’t take into account the thickness of the part and how these parts will be joined together and located in the finished product. This is exactly why it is necessary to do detailing - dividing the finished product into its individual components.

Before I move on to the large table with ready-made parts for my kitchen, I’ll explain a few more points about what comes from where and how.

Height of the floor row cabinet. The recommended standard height of the floor row is 860 mm. The thickness of the tabletop is usually 28 or 38 mm (mine is 38 mm). The height of the decorative legs is from 70 mm and above (I have 100 mm). So it turns out that the height of the cabinet (the box itself) in my case is equal to: 860 -38 - 100 = 722 mm. For the convenience of further calculations, I simply took 720 mm.

Drawers can be of several types:

• The drawer box is assembled from the same material as the rest of the kitchen (chipboard) and is mounted on roller or telescopic guides. As they say - cheap and cheerful.

• Metaboxes, tandemboxes, etc. In fact, these are ready-made boxes with fastening and adjustment systems, for which you just need to adjust the bottom and back wall (cut from chipboard). These systems are not cheap, but they are simple and easy to install. Plus they look very solid. Each manufacturer has schemes for calculating installation dimensions, additives and installation of their tandem boxes. Be sure to download them from the Internet, or take them from sellers, study them and start detailing.

Gas elevators and Aventos are mounted on top row cabinets and are designed to open and hold facades suspended. At a construction market or in a store, the seller will advise you about these things; you just need to tell us the material and dimensions of the facade that needs to be opened/held.

So, I present once again the kitchen diagram and the detailing that I ended up with.

Kitchen detailing (chipboard, plastic, fiberboard, countertop)

With this detailing in hand, I went to an office that specializes in cutting and gluing chipboard, selected the materials that suited my taste, and placed an order. For all the material and work it cost $660 (of which $120 was for the countertop).

While my order was being prepared, I began directly purchasing all the necessary fittings, hardware, and household appliances. Everything I needed for the kitchen is listed in the table below.

Accessories, hardware, household appliances

As a result, the cost of the set (without equipment) was $1,270: facades, frames, fittings, countertops, glass.

Assembly of finished products

And just a few days later they brought me a bunch of laminated chipboard boards and loaded them in front of my entrance, sprinkled plastic facades on top, added a couple of fiberboard sheets and a 38mm Egger tabletop. I distributed all this stuff among the rooms of the apartment, having previously done the necessary sorting of the parts so that I knew exactly where and what kind of closet I had.

The most important, but at the same time the most rewarding part of the work begins - assembling finished products.

Equipment and tools for assembly

In my work I will need the following tools:

• corner clamps (when working with confirmations, you can’t do without them). I bought cheap, flimsy ones at the market and reinforced them with two strips of chipboard. I used them to assemble a kitchen, a closet in the room, a chest of drawers and a shoe rack, and I will collect a lot more.

• Screwdriver + drill;
• Jigsaw;
• Special drill for confirmations (Euro ties) and hex bit;
• a center punch (or awl) and a pair of pencils;
• carpenter's angle, tape measure and rulers;
• Set of hammers and mallet.

Before starting the assembly, I also made several templates for drilling out parts for gluing onto wooden dowels, but immediately in the process of work I abandoned this idea - the confirmations securely and firmly tighten the product.

The collection of products must be carried out on a large, flat, flat surface, and the larger the area, the better.

In order not to get confused while working with the sides of the parts and their orientation, be sure to make marks on them with a pencil like “PR VN” (right side outer side) or “Bottom”, i.e. so that it is clear to you.

I highly recommend marking and installing fasteners (for example, fastenings for gas elevators or adding telescopic guides for drawers) on individual parts when they are not yet assembled into a box - you will agree that it is much more convenient to unfold a separate part than to twist and turn every time There's a whole box on the table.

The algorithm is simple:

• marking using a square (ruler) and pencil;
• marking (with an awl or a nail) the place for tightening the screw;
• tightening the screw.

I strongly advise you to seal it, because you won’t be able to simply screw a screw into a laminated chipboard; it will spin and slide off, which always causes considerable irritation.

When the markings for fasteners or additives are made, you can begin assembling the box itself. Here the main tools are angle clamps, a drill and a screwdriver.

We work according to a similar algorithm:

• marking the place for drilling with a confirmation drill using a square (ruler) and a pencil;
• capping;
• fixing parts with corner clamps;
• drilling with a confirmed drill;
• tightening the details with confirmation.

The box is assembled, now all that remains is to hang the facade on it, attach the hanging loops to the wall and nail the back wall made of fiberboard.

The facade is attached to the frame on door hinges without a closer. The holes in the facade for attaching the hinges are cut with a router with a diameter of 35 mm (in my case, this was done by the office from which I ordered the parts).

Next, we attach the counter parts to the façade for installing gas elevators and install the elevators themselves. Elevators can be installed in three positions, depending on which the facade will open at three different angles (less than 90, 90 and more than 90 degrees).

We attach hinges to the inner parts of the box for hanging.

At the finish, all that remains is to close the confirmations with plastic plugs, nail the back wall and attach the handle to the facade.

The result is a cabinet that will be located above the refrigerator.

Assembly of cabinet No. 2.3 with the Aventos system

Aventos come in different types and are installed on different cabinets. For the drying cabinet, the most convenient is the Aventos HF system (this is an Aventos with two facades that open simultaneously in an L-shape upwards), which I purchased. Installing such a product in a cabinet is not easy, but it is not some kind of overwhelming task. Aventos always comes with detailed, easy-to-understand instructions, following which you will definitely achieve success. My Kessebohmer Aventos even had a special “drilling map” for holes, which simply had to be attached to the lines drawn in advance on the sidewalls (calculated using the formulas given in the instructions) and drilled directly into it.

We attach the power mechanisms with levers to the sidewalls.

Now it's time behind the facades. The upper facade is cast, the lower one has a cutout for glass. The upper facade is attached to the cabinet using ordinary door hinges; the facades are connected to each other with special Clip Top hinges (opening angle 120 degrees). In the picture below they are shown by the top red arrow. The bottom arrow points to the holes for the hinges that were mistakenly drilled on the sharaga. I didn’t scold them too much, but solved the problem myself: I glued wooden rounds into the holes and painted them with white paint - anyway, with the Aventos open, the back side of the facade is not visible to the eye.

Response strips are also attached to the lower façade to snap levers onto them. Well, this is what this thing looks like once assembled. All that remains is to adjust the stroke of the levers and the position of the facades (everything is in the instructions). Drying cabinet No. 2.3 is assembled.

Cabinet No. 5,6 in the process of assembly

Now let's move on to three floor cabinets No. 10. Their main feature is the installation of retractable systems (tandemboxes) inside.

Again, I repeat, the entire process is carried out according to the additive diagrams that are supplied with the product. First, the guides are attached to the sides of the cabinet and attached.

Drawer mounted on guides. A latch is snapped into the upper hole and attached to the facade.

A retainer attached to the front of the drawer.

The system is very convenient because it allows you to simply remove the front from the drawer if something happens. Plus, tandem boxes are equipped with a system for adjusting the fronts vertically and horizontally, which is especially convenient when there are a lot of drawers (I have 9 of them) and you need to adjust them to each other.

Attaching fronts to drawers

We drill holes in the facades and attach handles. You need to drill the facade from the outside, and you need to press a piece of some kind of board tightly against the inside, then the drill at the exit from the chipboard will not crumble it and the hole will be smooth.

The wardrobe with drawers is almost ready.

We complete the cabinet assembly by installing decorative aluminum legs. The legs consist of two parts: one (with external thread) is attached with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the cabinet, the second (the legs themselves) is screwed onto the thread. This system allows the legs to be adjusted in height to, for example, compensate for slight unevenness in the floor.

The rest of the cabinets in the floor row (under the sink, under the oven) are not particularly remarkable; their assembly is exactly the same. The only thing that makes them different from the others is that they do not have back walls (water and sewage pipes are required for the sink, and the oven requires free ventilated space for hot air circulation).

Kitchen installation

So, our products are assembled, now it’s time to start installing the kitchen.

Wall row

It is now customary to hang a wall-mounted row of cabinets not on ordinary blind hinges, but on special furniture hinges with a hook, which cling to a metal profile strip screwed to the wall. The advantage of such hinges is that a cabinet already hung on the profile can be adjusted both in height and depth, which is very convenient for placing the facades of adjacent cabinets in the same plane.

We hang the cabinets of the top row and, using a screwdriver, adjust the hinges up and down, back and forth so that the facades of the adjacent cabinets are in the same plane, and the cabinets themselves hang level.

Bottom row

We tightly arrange the floor row cabinets, adjust them in height (by screwing/unscrewing the legs) and tighten them with intersection bolts.

We cover the cabinets with a tabletop and fix the tabletop with self-tapping screws from below through the drawers (transverse strips). You can also resort to using corners.

On the countertop we mark places for installing a sink and hob, drill a through hole so that a jigsaw blade can be inserted and cut out pieces of the countertop.

We cover the holes in the table top with a layer of silicone sealant, and also apply the sealant to the front side of the table top along the edge of the hole. We insert the sink and remove the squeezed out excess sealant with a rubber spatula. The same needs to be done for the hob, but you just need a heat-resistant sealant.

Bottom row assembled. The tabletop on the right row fits tightly to the window.

Well, here's what it looks like all together.

Installation of kitchen ceiling and bar counter

The next stage of work was the installation of the kitchen ceiling and bar counter. The kitchen is small, there is not a lot of space in it, so the choice was made in favor of a bar counter rather than a traditional table, the place for which was only at the entrance of the room, which, you see, is generally inconvenient.

Four pieces were cut out of chipboard (the same kind from which the cabinets were assembled) especially for the ceiling. Two parts were made with a curve, which should complete the ceiling. The parts were attached to the wall using thickened corners and self-tapping screws, but the bulk of the ceiling lay on the cabinets of the top row. Nothing complicated.

For the bar counter, a piece of the same Egger tabletop measuring 2000x400 mm was cut out, the edge of which was also made with a radius. It turned out that the rack and the ceiling element above it have identical dimensions.

We drill holes (14x170) in the tabletop and place them on hidden shelf holders, pre-fixed along the free wall.

Usually the recommended height for installing a bar counter is approximately 1100 mm from the floor, but mine turned out to be a little higher. The height of my counter was adjusted so that a microwave could fit into the free space between it and the floor row. It turned out something like this.

A little later, railing pipes with various hooks, jars for spices and trays will appear above and below the counter

Well, the whole stand/ceiling composition was completed by the 50th chrome-plated pipe with a holder for glasses and a shelf for fruit. Under the counter on the pipe I installed a holder with hooks for towels.

While the ordered bar stools were on their way, I slightly upgraded the wall above the counter by making the most expensive painting I could for it.

Well, this is what actually came out of it. Railing pipes with hooks are already in place, plus lamps were cut into the ceiling and another holder for glasses was added.

What happened in the end

That's it, my DIY kitchen is now ready.

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After finishing your kitchen renovation, you will most likely want to purchase a new kitchen set. It will be delivered disassembled. A specialist from the store, of course, can assemble it for a fee. But why pay more? After all, this matter is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

What will you need for assembly?

Any work requires the use of some tools. In this case, to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands you will need:

• A screwdriver or a drill (there is no fundamental difference, the main thing is to simplify the process of screwing in the fasteners).
• A hammer drill complete with a drill with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm is needed to secure the cabinets to a concrete or brick wall using dowels. For a wooden wall, a drill and large wood screws will be sufficient.
• A tape measure and square, a screwdriver and a hammer, a set of wood drills, a level, a construction knife - a necessary tool when assembling a kitchen.
• A jigsaw or a very good hacksaw will be needed to cut off the excess from the tabletop.
• A key for hexagonal furniture fasteners (screws) usually comes with the fittings, but not all manufacturers supply it, so it’s better to stock up on your own in advance.

Before you begin assembling and installing the kitchen unit, familiarize yourself with some features and recommendations so that the work goes quickly, all the subtleties and details are taken into account, and you don’t have to redo it.

• Wiring and all communication lines must be located in full accordance with the kitchen drawing. Do-it-yourself assembly of a modern headset will be successful only then. When all the elements are in place.
• Sockets should be located at a distance of 10 cm from the table surface.
• It is worth checking the slope of the floors. A slope of more than 5 mm will become critical and correct installation will not be possible.
• If assembling a kitchen with your own hands is the first such work, you should start by carefully studying the instructions from the manufacturer. It should describe in detail which fasteners will be installed in which places.
• You shouldn’t be in too much of a hurry to screw the doors on, because if you use the fasteners for other purposes, you’ll have to redo them later. But as for cheap furniture made of chipboard, after such experiments there is a big risk of tearing out the fastening by the “roots”. So, it will be difficult to install the required mount normally, and the appearance of the brand new headset will be ruined.
• Before you start working, distribute all the parts in their places, determining exactly where they should be located. Also count all the fasteners individually, noting their destinations. For convenience, place into separate containers. Nothing should get lost during the DIY kitchen assembly process. A video on how to properly use cabinet fasteners will help you get the job done properly.
• If you need to screw in self-tapping screws (screws), but there is no ready-made hole for it, drill it using a wood drill. Its diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw.

Kitchen assembly sequence

So, when everything is ready to start assembling the kitchen with your own hands, the drawings and assembly diagrams have been studied, proceed to the process itself.

1. The first thing to do is attach the cross-shaped fasteners for the doors. You can screw them onto two self-tapping screws into the previously prepared holes.

3. The next step will be the installation of dowels (or wooden choppers). They serve for more reliable fastening of wooden parts, for better stability of the structure and assembly of a more even frame. Use glue to secure the dowels. According to experts, regular PVA for working with wood is the best option. But you can use any other wood mounting adhesive. Insert the chopstick into the blind hole, fix it tightly and put another part on top, squeeze tightly.

4. Evenly spaced parts on the dowels are twisted with a hexagonal furniture screw. To hide the screw head, place a cap on top that matches the color of the furniture.

5. The next stage of assembling the frame will be installing the legs. In more expensive versions of furniture, the leg is adjustable, but in cheap ones it is only a plastic “thrust”. It will not spoil the floor covering and will hold the furniture, but if the floor is crooked, an unregulated base can become a serious problem for the entire system. Adjust the height of the legs so that the assembled headset frame is level.

6. Attach hangers to wall cabinets. They are usually adjustable. Secure them in the upper corners of the sides.

How to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands can be seen in the following video:

How to assemble drawers?

To assemble such a box, follow the same algorithm as with the cabinet. First we twist the walls using a dowel and screws. When the three walls have formed a single whole, insert the fiberboard bottom. Then you need to secure the facade. For this procedure, a fastening such as an eccentric tie is provided.

To install this element, screw a screw into the facade and insert its head into the holes in the side walls. They connect to a large round recess for the second fastening element - the bushing. To fix it, turn the sleeve; the screw head should be fixed in it.

When the box is assembled, all that remains is to screw the roller guides and insert them into place. This is almost the end of assembling the kitchen with your own hands. Step-by-step installation instructions below.

Before attaching the doors to the cabinets, you need to install the modules in their places.

• The first to be installed is the end cabinet, where the sink is usually placed. For pipes, it is necessary to prepare holes at the required height.
• Next, we put all the floor cabinets in place and adjust them in height.
• When all the elements of the lower part of the headset are located, they need to be fastened together. Use an intersection screed for this purpose - four pieces for the lower cabinets and two for the upper ones.

Important! To connect sections together, it is sometimes recommended to use ordinary self-tapping screws. However, doing this is risky; over time, the small fastening head can cut into the material and be pulled out by the roots under stress.

Washing

To install the sink you will need to make a round hole in the countertop. While the countertop is not yet secured, mark the place for the sink, carefully calculating the size and boundaries of the cut. You cannot cut a hole equal in width to the sink.

When the markings are made, drill a small round hole in the tabletop in order to start cutting with a jigsaw.

Important! Have someone hold the piece of tabletop you are cutting out. Otherwise, it may fall off and tear out part of the coating. If you do the work yourself, as you saw through the tabletop, cover the joint with tape. This will help secure the part that is falling out.

Screw the sink onto special fasteners. After installation, treat the joint with sealant.

The built-in stove is installed according to the same principle, only the equipment is put in place a little later.

Tabletop installation

Mark the future table top clearly in size so that it is close to the walls or with a small gap, and there is an allowance of about 3 cm along the front edge. Saw off the excess if necessary. Screw it to the cabinets from below using self-tapping screws. Another way: the tabletop is screwed to the base cabinet modules using corners that are placed on the side walls. This way you can slightly adjust the level of the working surface.

Important! When sawing the tabletop, use a fine-tooth blade to ensure the edge is as smooth as possible.

The next step will be processing the edges and joints. When assembling a corner kitchen with your own hands, a metal connecting strip is installed at the joints of the countertop. A metal finishing panel is screwed along the edge of the tabletop. However, it can be replaced with a furniture edge, which is fixed to the clean and even end of the tabletop using a hair dryer, in places where there is no thermal influence.

All joints should be treated with sealant. This will help keep the wood from getting moisture, thereby extending its service life.

For a clear example of how to assemble a kitchen stack with your own hands, watch the video at the end of the article.

Wall panel

There is a budget-friendly way to organize a work surface on the kitchen wall. If for some reason it was not possible to install tiles or glass as a kitchen backsplash, you can install a laminated wall panel. The standard panel size is 3 meters in length. It is attached using ordinary dowels, the heads of which are hidden under the cabinets. It must be installed before assembling the kitchen with your own hands. Photos of wall panels prove that they look no worse than more expensive aprons. They are also convenient to use.

Hanging upper cabinets

The standard height for placing wall cabinets above the countertop is 60 cm. Measure this distance and mark it. Next, measure the height of the cabinets and put this measurement up the wall. Draw a line using a building level. Install the bar (tire) on it. Cabinets will be attached to it.

Adjust the bolts on the hangers so that the cabinets hang evenly and tightly to the wall. Fasten the elements using furniture ties.

Another way to hang wall cabinets is used for less expensive kitchens. On the previously marked top line, a hole is made for the cabinet fasteners, and the fastening loop is placed on the dowel nail. Then, holding the module, level it and mark the location of the second fastening. We make a hole again and insert a brad nail. We hang a locker. We repeat the same procedure with all elements.

Important! Hanging structures are designed for light loads. On average it is from 15 to 30 kg. Therefore, try not to overload the wall cabinets, check the quality of the fastenings, and do not allow the structure to skew, then your kitchen furniture will last a long time.

If all the previous steps are completed correctly, installing the cabinet doors will not pose any problems.

On the front of the doors there are small round recesses made by the manufacturer. They need to secure the hinge bowl with self-tapping screws. Now put the hinges on the cross-shaped fasteners on the side walls, secure with bolts and adjust their position with screws.

Finishing work

When all the cabinets are installed, the doors fit and close well, it is necessary to attach the cladding elements and missing fittings. At this stage, accuracy is important, since the appearance of the headset depends on small external details.

The gap between the wall and the tabletop is closed with a special plinth. Using self-tapping screws or small dowels, its inner part (guide) is attached to the wall. Then the top decorative trim is snapped on. Tabs are installed in the corners, the end is closed with a plug.

A metal strip is installed at the junction of the countertop of the corner kitchen, the strength and evenness of the sink, doors, and fittings are checked.

The hood is mounted at a height of more than 70 cm from the hob (for gas stoves - at least 80 cm) and the air duct. You should also connect water and sewer pipes, faucets, sockets and household appliances.

By following the instructions, each owner himself is able to assemble a brand new kitchen set over the weekend and at the same time save a decent amount. After all, what you do with your own hands warms the soul much more. The main thing is to adhere to the basic principle: measure seven times and only then cut.

In our country, people assemble furniture in their apartments on their own. Whether this is the right decision must be determined by each owner for himself. In our article we will describe how to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands.

To get a quality result, any work requires preparation. Kitchen assembly is no exception.

Step 1

Check that all necessary tools are available and functional. Charge the screwdriver battery and prepare the jigsaw. Electrical equipment can be replaced with mechanical tools, but this will only increase the time and complexity of kitchen installation.

You may also need:

Step 2

Review the delivered set of furniture for defects and the presence of all elements. If you find a shortage or mismatch, you can contact the supplier or buy in addition what is missing yourself.

Step 3

Read the instructions for assembling the kitchen furniture set you purchased. Kitchens made by different manufacturers may have their own installation features that should be taken into account.

Step 4

Remove everything unnecessary from the room to make room for assembly, remove all garbage. Floors must be clean.

Note! To avoid damaging the floor covering during the installation of cabinets, you can cover the floor with a tarpaulin or other cloth.

After preparing and checking the tools, furniture elements and premises, you can begin the assembly itself.

The nuances of assembling a kitchen set

In order to properly assemble the kitchen, you must first familiarize yourself with the features and installation rules.

1. Installation of kitchen furniture begins from the corner, if the set is corner. A linear kitchen begins to be assembled from the cabinet that will rest against the wall.

   

2. It is not recommended to assemble all cabinets at once. Only after one assembled module is installed in place do they begin to assemble the next one. This helps avoid cluttering the space.
3. There should be a distance of half a centimeter between the countertop and the wall.

   

4. You should not install fronts on the upper cabinets right away. Without doors it will be easier to hang the modules.
5. Drawer slides are attached to the inside surface of the side walls until the cabinets are assembled.

   

Kitchen installation

Opinions are divided on whether to start installing a kitchen with upper or lower cabinets. Some experts believe that already installed floor cabinets can interfere with the process of installing wall cabinets. According to other furniture makers, you need to start from the bottom row, from which the height of the upper cabinets is already measured.

You can choose the option that is convenient for you. We will describe the first case. But first, we need to tell you the general principle of assembling cabinets and drawers.

How to properly assemble headset elements

One of the most convenient devices in a kitchen set are drawers. If we are talking about narrow cabinets, for example, about bottle holders, then the guides for the drawers are secured in them before the box itself is assembled. If the cabinet is wide enough, then installation of all fastenings for drawers is carried out after assembling the module.

At the preliminary stage, the crosspiece from the door hinges is also attached to the designated places. After this, they proceed directly to assembling the box.

Step 1. Take the side wall of the box and place it end-to-end on a flat surface so that the front part looks up.

Step 2. Join the cabinet wall to the bottom at right angles and secure the connection with confirmations. In factory kitchens, holes for Euroscrews are usually already prepared.

Step 3. The other side wall is attached in the same way.

Step 4. After this, two upper strips are installed if the lower pedestals are assembled. Wall cabinets have a lid installed.

Note! The ends of the side walls should be flush with the bottom, as well as the lid or top strips.

Step 5. Place the cabinet with the front side down on a flat surface and measure its diagonals, the difference between the lengths of which should not be more than 1.5 mm.

Step 6. Fix the back wall of the cabinet with staples or nails, placing them at a distance of 7 cm from each other. To make the back part more durable, some experts use screws instead of nails and furniture staples.

Note! The cabinet over which the sink will be installed does not have a back wall, but is often equipped with an additional stiffening rib.

Step 7 Adjustable legs are attached to the bottom of floor cabinets. The distance from them to the nearest edges should be about 50 mm. Legs can be metal or plastic.

In the first case, they perform not only a supporting, but also a decorative function. Upon completion of kitchen installation, plastic products are covered with a plinth strip. Suspended structures are equipped with loops for mounting to the wall.

The drawer is assembled according to the same principle.

Step 1. Four planks are connected to each other at right angles to form a box.

Step 2. Diagonals are measured, the lengths of which should not differ from each other.

Step 3. The guides are fixed to the side walls of the box.

Step 4. Mount the front of the box using screws. Sometimes the front wall of the box can serve as a facade. In this case, it is attached to the side crossbars using an eccentric. But such a design is rarely found in modern kitchens.

We measure the diagonal, both diagonals should be the same

It is better to assemble the drawers after the upper cabinets and lower cabinets have been assembled and installed.

As noted above, so that the lower row of cabinets does not interfere, many experts recommend hanging the upper cabinets first.

First of all, correctly mark the mounting location. To do this, set aside the height from the floor at which the bottom of the cabinets will be located. If the person who will work in the kitchen most often is of average height, then it is recommended to measure 1.3 - 1.4 m for the bottom of the cabinet. Then, from this mark, the height of the cabinets themselves is also set upward and a line is marked where the fasteners will be installed. The line must be smooth and horizontal, which is checked using the mounting level.

Note! The distance between the tabletop and the upper section should be about 0.6 m. Therefore, if you decide to start installation from the lower cabinets, then measure this distance upward from them to select the mounting height of the upper cabinets.

You can hang cabinets in different ways:

• the traditional option involves the use of mounting loops;
• in the second case, a rail is used, which is mounted to the wall, and a kind of hook attached to the back wall of the cabinet and clinging to the rail.

Note! An exhaust air duct and a gas pipe often pass through the upper section of the headset. For this reason, in all cabinets it is necessary to first cut out holes for these communications using a jigsaw or hacksaw. All cut areas must be treated with sealant.

The first method of installing wall cabinets includes the following steps.

• along the line drawn on the wall, mark the place of the first fastening and drill a hole with a hammer drill;
• fasteners are inserted into the hole;
• hang the cabinet on one hinge on the mount and, continuing to hold the module, level it using a spirit level and mark the place where you need to drill a hole for the second fastener for this cabinet;
• After installing the second fastener, hang and finally level the cabinet.

This procedure is repeated for all cabinets.

The second mounting method makes it easier to install the upper section. It should be taken into account that in this case it is not possible to attach the cabinets flush to the wall. This installation of upper cabinets, although expensive, is very simple:

• first, a special metal strip is attached along the line drawn on the wall;
• special hanging devices like hooks are screwed to the upper corners of the back wall of the cabinets using screws;
• hook the hooks onto the rail;
• level the cabinet.

When the entire top row is mounted and leveled, the cabinets need to be tightened together with furniture screws.

Installation of lower cabinets

After the installation of the upper sections is completed, you can begin installing the floor cabinets.

Note! In the lower cabinets you will also need to make holes and recesses for sewer, water and gas pipes, as well as for connecting electrical appliances to the network.

Step 1. Starting from the corner, the cabinet is installed in place.

Step 2. Adjust the legs of the cabinet.

Step 3. Other cabinets are also installed and adjusted in height.

Step 4. They tighten the adjacent cabinets with a clamp, and then with a furniture tie.

After this, the tabletop is installed on the cabinets. First you need to cut out a hole in it with a jigsaw for washing.

1. To do this, lay the tabletop on the cabinets the way it will lie after installation.
2. Then choose the location of the sink and mark it with a pencil.
3. A hole is cut out using a jigsaw along the marked contour in the table top.
4. Treat the cut with silicone sealant.

If necessary, a hole is made in the countertop for the hob and for communications.

After this, you can put the table cover back in place. This is often done using furniture corners that are screwed to the side walls of cabinets. The tabletop is laid on the cabinets and leveled.

If the lid of the cabinets consists of two parts, then they are connected using metal strips as follows:

• Using a hacksaw, the plank is cut to the width of the tabletop;
• coat one surface of the plank with sealant;
• attach it with screws to the cut of the tabletop;
• Lubricate the other surface of the metal rail with sealant and immediately join it to the other part of the table top.

After this, fix the tabletop on the cabinets by screwing screws into the holes in the furniture corners.

Final stage

Completing the installation does not require as much physical effort as it does require careful work. After all, the appearance of the headset depends on this stage.

1. At the junction of the countertop and the wall there is a gap, which is covered with a plinth.
2. After this, the doors are hung. They are adjusted using special hinge bolts.
3. At the same stage, drawers and built-in appliances are installed, lighting fixtures are installed, and the facades and basement plan are installed.
4. I put it in place and connect the sink.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

The kitchen is now ready for use.

Also read on our website an article about do-it-yourself kitchen facades.

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands. Hanging cabinets

Video - How to assemble a drawer

Video - Inserting a sink into a countertop