Installing new batteries. Rules for installing heating batteries in an apartment. Stages of installing a heating battery

Sooner or later, any heating radiator will have to be replaced. This happens if it fails and begins to leak. Or if so much lime deposits have accumulated on its inner surface over many years of operation that it cannot cope with the heating function. This requires high-quality installation of heating radiators that meets the standards established by SNiP.

In a private house, installation can be performed by the owner. Even if a leak is detected when starting the system, it is easy to turn off the individual heating to eliminate the defects. In multi-storey buildings everything is more complicated. If coolant begins to leak out at the junction of pipes and radiators 2-3 weeks after the start of the heating season, it will be difficult to turn off the heating system of the entire house. In addition, neighbors will suffer due to lack of heating or due to flooding.

Plumber specialists know how to properly install heating radiators in an apartment, so it is better to entrust this work to them.

Even if an accident occurs after the system is launched, they will be held responsible for what happened. They will have to fix it at their own expense, as well as pay for the damage caused to the residents. If the installation of heating radiators carried out by specialists turns out to be too high for the consumer, the work will have to be done independently. To do this, you need to read the instructions supplied with the new heating device and study the installation diagram.

Before installing heating radiators with your own hands, read the following standards SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”:

After purchasing a heating radiator, installation is carried out depending on the type of system and connection diagram.

Types of heating systems

The level of heat supply directly depends on the type of heating system in an apartment or house. According to the pipe connection diagram, 3 types of systems can be distinguished: one-pipe, two-pipe systems and using a manifold.

Single pipe system

The single-pipe system is installed in such a way that the coolant flows through one pipe (sequentially) into each radiator, after which it cools down and returns to the boiler. This system is the easiest to install. Installed everywhere in multi-storey buildings. Its disadvantage is that each subsequent radiator receives cooler coolant and warms up the room worse. There is also no possibility of local repair of one battery. If necessary, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

Two-pipe system

involves the supply of hot coolant to each radiator separately (parallel connection), through one pipe. Thus, they all warm up to the same temperature. And the cooled liquid enters a separate return pipe and moves to the boiler for reheating. In this case, the rules for installing heating radiators are simplified. After all, for replacement it is possible to disconnect only one old radiator from the system.

Collector system

The collector system is very complex. It is intended for cottages. It involves a large consumption of pipes, since separate pipes are supplied to each battery. Only professionals can install such a system.

Connection diagrams

Before installing a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:

You can ask the specialists how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and perhaps agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen will tell you which connection scheme to choose and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.

Installation

Performed at any time of the year. You cannot install more than twelve battery sections in a system with natural circulation of liquid, and more than 24 with an artificial one. Before installation, you need to purchase tow or sealing tape, sealant, shut-off and temperature control equipment, as well as fasteners made of the appropriate material, for example, brackets of a certain length, bends different sizes. The thread size of the pipes must correspond to the size of the batteries and pipes.

Since additional parts are not cheap, and the cost of installing heating radiators is also not low, hiring specialists can be problematic. In addition, this work also includes the dismantling of heating radiators, the price for which, although not high, still affects the overall cost. And therefore, in any case, it is better to do the dismantling yourself, so as not to overpay.

To do this, first drain the coolant from one radiator, which is changed if it can be localized by closing the valves at the inlet; or from the entire one-pipe system. When carrying out work in an apartment building, you should contact the housing department so that its employees drain the water from the riser on which the replacement is being carried out. After this, you can remove the old radiator.

To install a heating radiator yourself, you first need to install shut-off and control equipment on it.

And also install a Mayevsky tap, with the help of which it will subsequently be possible to bleed air from the batteries. Brackets are installed on the wall, after carefully marking the installation location. It is believed that to install an average-sized radiator, you will need 2-3 brackets to hold its upper part, and 2 to fix the lower part.

The fasteners are leveled and the battery is installed on it. If the brackets are installed correctly, it should fit snugly against the supports and not wobble. A small detail: the heating device is installed with a small slope (0.3 cm for each meter of its length) so that the Mayevsky tap is located near the highest point. The actual installation of the heating radiator, the price of which is reduced thanks to self-installation, begins with unscrewing the plugs from the battery.

If, install a bypass with a valve. With a two-pipe system, only the outlet on which the valve is installed is connected. Then the pipes are connected to the pipes. For this you need torque wrenches. You will have to buy them, which will increase the cost of installing a heating radiator, but you can’t do without them. They will allow you not to overdo it when tightening nuts and other fasteners, since the instructions for each auxiliary element indicate the permissible torque.

A loose connection is also dangerous due to the possibility of leaks. The joints are sealed with tow moistened with oil paint or with a special sealant. They can also be boiled. After installation, the connections need to be crimped. It will be carried out by a called plumber, since buying a crimping tool is expensive. At the end of the work, you need to carry out a test run of the system, and, if necessary, immediately eliminate any defects.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly install heating radiators, you should think about whether you need to do this work yourself. If you do not have the skills to install heating devices, it is better to hire professionals, having previously found out the prices for installing heating radiators in the locality where they will be installed.

If aluminum or are installed, leave them in the packaging until installation is complete to avoid damaging the surface in case of an accidental impact. It is noteworthy that the installation of cast iron heating radiators also has its own characteristics. They are heavy, so they require the installation of more brackets. In addition, these parts should be embedded deeper into the wall, especially if it is brick.

If the wall is made of plasterboard, the heavy battery is not hung on it, but is installed on special floor stands, and a pair of wall brackets is needed to prevent the structure from falling. In addition, if the device being mounted is cast iron, then its connection to the pipes is made with a welding machine. That is, in this case, the installation of heating radiators by gas welding is almost always used, and this should not be neglected.

From all of the above it follows that the installation of heating batteries can be quite simple if you initially prepare well for it and study all the instructions supplied with the device. After completing all procedures in the established sequence, the heating system will be durable and will last for decades.

Battery leaking? Do you want to replace your old bulky cast iron battery with a compact and more economical bimetallic one?

Installing a heating radiator

Before starting work, consider some nuances:

• Before replacing the battery, the water should be turned off only in the customer’s apartment, and not in the entire house.

• Only housing office employees who have the appropriate qualifications for this should shut off the water. Even if you replace the battery yourself, entrust this task to specialists. Otherwise, you risk leaving all residents whose apartments are located along the riser without water supply.

• Battery replacement, ideally, should also be carried out by housing office employees or workers specially hired for this. If the customer carried out the removal and installation independently, then all responsibility for the serviceability of the system falls on him.

• Installation and replacement of the battery when using the pipe bending method and gas welding, instead of the usual installation system, must also be carried out by workers who have certain qualifications to carry out work at an increased level of safety.

Selection and installation of different types of radiators

The market today includes radiators made of cast iron, aluminum, steel, as well as bimetallic radiators. How to choose the right one among them?

Cast iron radiators

Modern cast-iron radiators are no longer the bulky accordions we are used to seeing in “Khrushchev” buildings and most Soviet apartments. Today they look like flat panels with smooth corners and a presentable appearance. Due to its physical properties, cast iron, when heated, retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the room.

Advantages: improved heat transfer, service life of about 25-50 years. Disadvantages: heavy weight (one section of a cast iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore the installation of heating radiators made of cast iron is impossible in a number of rooms whose walls are made of wood or, for example, plasterboard. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Flaws: heavy weight (one section of a cast iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore the installation of heating radiators made of cast iron is impossible in a number of rooms whose walls are made of wood or, for example, plasterboard. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Manufacturers: The MS-140 model or the so-called “accordion” is an eternal classic, well known to all of us. Transformed cast iron radiators can be found in the catalogs of VIADRUS (Czech Republic), ROCA (Spain) and FERROLI (Italy), as well as domestic manufacturers - CHAZ (Cheboksary Aggregate Plant) or MZOO (Belarus). Price: from $8 per section.

Aluminum radiators

In design, modern aluminum radiators are not much different from cast iron ones. However, the significant difference between them is the weight of the radiator sections.

Advantages: good heat transfer rates, the presence of ventilation windows that evenly distribute warm air throughout the room, the weight of the sections (only 1 kg!), smooth surface, can be fixed to any surface.

Flaws: sensitivity to the chemical composition of water, pressure surges in the pipeline.

Manufacturers: Due to the fact that a small radiator can heat a relatively large area, on the market you can find models from 80-100 mm in depth and center-to-center distance from 300 to 800 mm, and the number of sections in the radiator from 4 to 16. Italian-made models are more common: radiators companies FONDITAL, DECORAL, RAGALL, FARAL, as well as a number of domestically produced radiators - SMK (Stupino) and MMZiK (Mias). Price: from $12 per section.

Bimetallic radiators

We can say that this type of radiator is a compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Externally, bimetallic radiators are difficult to distinguish from aluminum ones, however, such products are not sensitive to the composition of water and changes in pressure. The universal design of such heating radiators directs hot water through steel pipes, which transfer heat to aluminum panels, which heat the air in the room. Installing a heating radiator of this type is the best option both in terms of price and physical properties of the product.

Advantages: weight, improved battery design, good heat transfer performance.

Flaws: not yet discovered.

Manufacturers: On the market you can find products mainly from Italian (SIRA, GLOBAL) and Czech manufacturers (ARMATHERMAL). Among the domestic ones, the best radiators are rightfully considered to be RIFAR (Gai, Orenburg region), TsVELIT-R (Ryazan) and SANTEKHPROM (Moscow). Price: from $15 per section.

Steel radiators

Guided by the above general rules for the location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the installation locations of the fasteners.

If necessary, cover the wall surface with heat-reflecting material and secure the brackets to the wall (be sure to use a level to determine the horizontal position, as well as a tape measure to determine the length of the bracket insertion into the wall).

Secure the radiator to the brackets, placing their hooks between the battery sections.
Connect the radiator to a centralized or autonomous heating system according to the selected connection diagram.

Aluminum radiators can be installed in both single- and two-pipe heating systems with horizontal or vertical piping. These radiators can also be used for heating rooms with natural and forced circulation of hot water. Today the market can offer two options for aluminum radiators:

• Reinforced radiators with operating pressure up to 16 atm. Such batteries are used for heating high-rise residential and non-residential buildings. For heating a private home, the use of this type of radiator is unjustified due to the high cost of the sections.

• European type of aluminum radiators, designed for heating rooms with autonomous heating systems. The maximum operating pressure in such radiators is no more than 6 atm.

The installation kit for aluminum radiators consists of:

• automatic or manual air release valve (the so-called Mayevsky valve);
• plugs (right or left thread);
• sealing gaskets;
• racks or brackets;
• shut-off or thermostatic valves.

Installation of cast iron radiators

The installation of cast iron radiators is essentially no different procedurally from the installation of aluminum heating devices. In the case of cast iron products, it is important, however, not to overload the wall, and also to pay more attention to torque moments. Cast iron radiators are recommended to be installed at a slight slope so that hot air does not accumulate inside the radiator (this can lead to a decrease in the heat transfer of the device).

Cast iron radiators also have a different assembly system from others: before installation, such a radiator must be unscrewed, the nipples must be tightened, and the radiator must be assembled again. For fastening cast iron radiators in wooden houses and against walls that have a relatively weak structure, installation options are provided not on brackets, but on floor stands. At the same time, wall mounts are also made, but they only perform a supporting function.

Installation of bimetallic radiators

The advantages of installing bimetallic radiators rather than cast iron or aluminum are that they weigh relatively little and, provided that they are not inferior to aluminum ones in terms of heat transfer, bimetallic radiators are able to operate uninterruptedly even at high pressure in the system. The installation method, as well as general recommendations for installing such heating devices, are specified in the product instructions.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of pipes made of one material or another in combination with bimetallic radiators. So, for example, for most houses only metal pipes are installed, and metal-plastic can only be installed in private houses whose heating system operates at high pressure.

$ Cost of installation of heating radiators

The cost of installing a radiator will directly depend on the material of the product, the number of sections installed for one heating point, as well as the total number of heating points installed in the apartment. The total amount of installation costs will be influenced by both the connection diagram and the cost of components necessary for the work. Of course, you can do such work yourself. However, this will place full responsibility on you for the performance of the system, as well as for all possible negative consequences associated with its failure. So, how much does it cost to install a radiator? On average, all work on arranging one heating point in an apartment can cost $40-50.

Radiator installation:

• Kyiv − 250-350 UAH. per point;
• Moscow − 2,650-3,000 rubles. per point.
• The cost of work on supplying or replacing heating pipes is calculated separately.

Radiator installation: VIDEO

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: VIDEO

When installing a heating system ourselves, among other issues, we need to decide at what distance from the wall to hang the radiator. Although this aspect may not seem important enough to some, in fact, the efficiency of the system largely depends on compliance with the installation parameters.

In our article we will tell you why it is necessary to monitor the distance from the battery to surfaces, and also provide recommendations for installing a radiator on a wall or floor.

The importance of following installation parameters

Heating devices, as their name suggests, are installed in a room to heat it. At the same time, most radiator-type models are characterized by heat radiation from the entire surface, which imposes certain restrictions on installation.

As a rule, the distance from the wall to the heating radiator is from 25 to 60 mm. This value is determined, in fact, by two parameters: the fundamental possibility of installation (the size of the window sill, the dimensions of the niche, etc.), as well as the power of the device.

Note!
The more powerful the device and the higher its heat output, the larger the gap should be between the back surface and the wall.

It is not recommended to install the battery close to the wall, and here's why:

• Firstly, for effective heat exchange between the radiator material and the air, it is necessary to ensure at least a minimum level of circulation. In a small gap, the air remains almost motionless, and therefore some of the heat is lost.
• Secondly, in the too narrow space between the rear wall of the radiator and the wall surface, a high temperature is constantly maintained. Because of this, the level of heat dissipation decreases, the battery wall overheats, and the device fails earlier.

Note!
This is important for both water radiators and electric heaters.
For the former, with constant overheating, corrosion is activated, for the latter, the risk of a short circuit increases.

• Finally, the narrow gap very quickly becomes clogged with dust, which can be extremely inconvenient to remove during cleaning.. If you leave dust where it has accumulated, then overheating and problems with heat dissipation will begin to appear quite quickly.

It is based on these considerations that experts decide what distance between the wall and the radiator needs to be maintained. Well, we will tell you below how to implement this in practice.

Installation method

Wall option

When doing installation work yourself, it is much easier to mount the battery on the wall. This task is less labor-intensive compared to floor installation, but all operations must be performed very efficiently.

The installation process itself includes the following steps:

As you can see, the instructions are not complicated, but you need to control the quality of the work at every stage.

Floor option

Sometimes the battery turns out to be too heavy to hang on the wall - there is a risk that the material simply will not hold up. In this case, installation is carried out using floor brackets. Yes, the price of such products will be slightly higher than that of wall mounts, however, the margin of safety is incomparable.

The installation process itself involves the following steps:

• We select a pair of brackets whose load-bearing capacity is sufficient to support the weight of the battery.
• We install racks on the base of the floor, which we fix with anchors. We select the distance from the wall so that the minimum gap between it and the mounted radiator is 60 mm.

Advice!
It is better to mount the floor brackets before pouring the screed - this way we can disguise the attachment point.

• We fill the screed, hiding the bases of the brackets and the caps of the mounting anchors.
• We put hooks on the racks, set them to the desired height and secure them with bolts. If the product package includes this, we install metal gaskets that will protect the radiator material at the point of contact with the hook.
• We hang the radiator on the hooks, which we then carefully level.

Despite the great complexity of implementation, this system has obvious advantages: the load from the battery is transferred not to the wall, but to the floor, so the risk of loosening the fasteners will be minimal.

Conclusion

You can provide the distance between the wall and the heating radiator necessary for effective heat exchange in different ways. It is important to make this gap sufficient for air to circulate freely in the gap, making heating of the room as efficient as possible. For a more detailed study of the technique, it is worth watching the video in this article.

Heating in an apartment is the right and inexpensive way to return heat to your apartment. In addition, this cannot be called a complicated process; it is only important to follow all the installation nuances and installation rules.

Battery connection examples.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to consider some nuances:

Connecting the battery can be entrusted to a qualified specialist who will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

1. You should not replace the battery yourself, but it is better to entrust this task to a specialist, who will bear all responsibility for further malfunctions in the operation of the radiator. In addition, when replacing it yourself, there is a risk of leaving all the residents of the building, whose apartments are located along the riser, without water. Before work in the apartment, water should be turned off only by housing office employees who have the appropriate qualifications.
2. If during installation and replacement the pipe bending method and gas welding work are used, then the work must also be carried out by workers with certain qualifications to carry out work with increased safety.

Radiator selection

There is a wide range of radiators on the market today, designed for different buyers. The principle “the more expensive the better” does not always work here. You need to make your choice based on the following reasons:

• place of residence;
• heating system wiring;
• on how the heating radiators will need to be installed;
• temperature conditions in the heating system;
• accounting for what material was used in the production of pipes;
• the need for control elements and fittings;
• location of the premises in the building.

Having completed this analysis, you can proceed to choosing a battery.

Today, cast iron radiators can look quite presentable; they can be decorated. Thus, they can easily fit into the overall design of the room.

Cast iron radiators of the modern type are no longer the huge accordions that were in the Soviet apartment, but flat panels with smoothed corners and a presentable appearance. Having good physical heating properties, cast iron retains heat for a long time and gradually releases it into the room. Such radiators have a long service life, 20-50 years. The main disadvantage is their large weight (one section weighs about 8 kg), so it is impossible to install them correctly in rooms where the walls are made of wood or plasterboard. Having a rough surface, they are not very easy to clean.

Aluminum radiators differ little in design from cast iron ones; the only difference is the weight of the sections (1 kg). Also, such devices have good heat transfer properties, a smooth surface, ventilation windows evenly distribute air in the room, and they can be attached to any surface. The main disadvantage is the easy perception of the chemical composition of water and pressure surges in the pipeline.

Bimetallic radiators are a compromise solution between cast iron and aluminum. Externally they are almost no different from aluminum ones, but are not sensitive to the composition of water and pressure surges. They have good heat transfer performance, are easy to install and are inexpensive.

Steel radiators have a panel appearance and a relief surface. They have various connection options and good thermal properties. No major deficiencies were identified.

Radiator installation rules

Before replacement, you need to agree on the installation diagram with specialists, which will allow you to carry out installation work correctly and effectively heat the room. The following sequence of actions must be followed:

1. Shut off the water in the apartment and in a specific area.
2. Drain the water from the area to be replaced.
3. Blow out the pipes and remove the remaining water.
4. Install a new battery based on the installation instructions and manufacturer's recommendations.
5. After installation, test the system for leaks and operation of the radiator sections.

Attention! When choosing a radiator, take into account the temperature heating power, the area for normal heating with a certain number of sections, and the operating pressure of the coolant.

Radiator installation rules according to SNiP

Installation of radiators indoors must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.01-85.

There should be at least 2 cm from the radiator to the wall.

1. The standard for installing radiators correctly assumes that the radiator is installed relative to the center of the window: the center of the window and the radiator must coincide, with an error of no more than 2 cm.
2. The width of the battery should be equal to 50-70% of the width of the window sill.
3. The height of the battery above the floor should not be more than 12 cm from the finished floor, the distance from the top edge of the battery to the window sill should not be more than 5 cm.
4. The distance from the radiator to the wall is 2-5 cm. An exception may be special treatment of the wall with heat-reflecting material.

Attention! The radiator should not be installed too close to the floor or wall, as this will affect the heat transfer performance. In single-pipe heating systems, it is impossible to use a larger number of sections than was previously available. In systems with artificial water circulation, if the number of sections is more than 24, during installation it is necessary to use a versatile method for connecting heating devices.

Rules for installing aluminum radiators

1. Correctly assemble the radiator by screwing in the radiator plugs, plugs and gaskets, install thermostatic valves, shut-off valves, and Mayevsky valve.
2. Following the general rules for positioning the radiator relative to the window, mark the mounting locations.
3. If necessary, cover the wall surface with heat-reflecting material and attach the brackets to the wall.
4. Secure the radiator to the brackets, placing hooks between the sections, and connect to the centralized or room.

Aluminum radiators can be installed in both single-pipe and two-pipe heating systems with vertical and horizontal piping. Today's market can offer two types of aluminum radiators: reinforced radiators with a pressure of up to 16 atm, which are used for heating high-rise buildings, and European aluminum radiators of no more than 6 atm, used for heating in autonomous heating systems.

Rules for installing cast iron and bimetallic radiators

The process is not much different from installing aluminum ones. Here it is important not to overload the wall, and it is recommended to install them at a slight angle so that hot air does not accumulate inside the battery, which leads to low heat transfer from the device.

Before installation, you need to properly unscrew the radiator, tighten the nipples, and put everything back together again. In wooden houses with a weaker wall structure, mounting is provided not on brackets, but on floor stands, while wall mountings have a supporting function.

The heat supply system is an integral part of the engineering systems installed in every home. And its arrangement must be treated with special attention. This also applies to the assembly of pipelines and the hanging of heating radiators. After all, even a small problem can lead to global consequences, so it is important to know how to properly hang a heating radiator.

Work on installing radiators must begin with determining their connection diagram. In practice, 3 methods are used, they are defined by building regulations:

1. Side. They are used very often, since it is the one that provides maximum thermal output.
2. Diagonal. Most effective when connecting long heating appliances.
3. Bottom connection. Used for heat supply systems from pipes, which are placed directly under the floor covering.

Instructions for installing heating radiators

After the connection diagrams have been determined and heating batteries have been purchased, you need to find and carefully study SNiP 3.05.01 - 85. It sets out the requirements for installing heating radiators. Most manufacturing companies include detailed instructions for installing heating devices with their products. If you follow the requirements of regulatory and operational documentation, then there should be no problems with installing radiators.

The main requirement is compliance with the dimensions of the heating radiator mounting relative to the floor and wall. Otherwise, the heated air will circulate poorly, and the efficiency of the heating device will greatly decrease. The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that the distance to the inner surface of the window sill and to the floor covering should not be less than 100 mm. Practice shows that 120 mm will be optimal.

The distance from the inner wall of the niche to the rear surface of the radiator should not be less than ¾ of the depth of the mounted battery. If the specified dimensions are not observed, then, as already noted, the efficiency of the heat flow will decrease. If the heating device is not mounted in a niche located under the window, but directly near the wall, then the marked distances should not be less than 200 mm. Neglecting the established indicators will lead to difficulty in the movement of warm air and the accumulation of dust on the back wall.

What tools are needed for installation work?

In order to complete the work of installing a heating battery, you need to do a little preparatory work and prepare the tool.

During installation the following will be useful:

• perforator;
• drill (its diameter is determined by the size of the dowel into which the bracket will be screwed);
• roulette;
• building level;
• locksmith tool.

Heating radiator assembly procedure

Before you begin installing the battery, you need to determine the location of the fasteners. The number of fasteners is determined by the size of the heating device. But even when installing a radiator with minimal dimensions, the number of attachment points should not be less than three.

The next step is to install the brackets to mount the battery. To increase the reliability of the system, you can use dowels or cement mortar. Work on installing the battery must begin by checking the radiator configuration. Then you can begin installing the components (plugs, fasteners, adapters) onto the heating device.

The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that automatic air vents must be installed on heating radiators. If possible, it is advisable to use a Mayevsky crane.

Mayevsky crane

In addition to the devices installed on the heating radiator, it makes sense to mount ball valves at the inlet and outlet. Their presence will allow you to avoid difficulties with dismantling if repairs are necessary. By turning off the taps, the radiator can be easily removed.

It would not be superfluous to install thermostats. Their presence will allow you to regulate the heat supply to heating devices, which will create a comfortable temperature in each room.

After installing all devices and fittings, you can connect the pipelines. The method of connecting them to the radiator (traditional welding, crimping or threaded connection) depends on the scheme of its inclusion in the heat supply system. The type of connection between the pipes and the battery is determined by the material from which they are made.

The last step is to test the heat supply system. It must be remembered that during the tests, pressure 1.5-2 times higher than the nominal pressure is supplied to the pipes and radiators. It is advisable to keep the system under high pressure for some time. This will help installers see how joints on pipes and connections to radiators behave.

Important! The coolant must be supplied both during testing and when starting the system by gradually opening the tap. Otherwise, you can provoke a phenomenon such as water hammer, which can lead to the destruction of components of the thermal energy supply system.

After installing the radiator on the installed fasteners, it is necessary to check the correctness of its placement in the horizontal and vertical planes.

It is allowed to lift the edge of the radiator on which the air vent is located. This will ensure that the air trapped in the system accumulates at the highest possible point, and its release will be carried out quickly and with maximum efficiency.

But a change in level of more than one centimeter is unacceptable, as is a reverse tilt. In this case, the formation of an air lock is guaranteed, and the supply of coolant further along the pipeline will be limited or stopped.

Advice! Almost all companies producing heating devices require installers to install only on pre-prepared walls. That is, the surface must be smooth and clean. This will allow you to correctly mark the locations for fasteners.

The heating radiator is hung on two hooks (brackets), which are located in the upper part, and the third must be installed as a support for the lower edge of the device. The installation worker must remember that the number of brackets is determined by the weight and length of the battery.

One of the stages of installing a heating system in an apartment or private house is the installation of heating radiators with connection to the mains. It is better to perform this operation before laying the pipes, this makes it easier to make neat radiator connections. We will cover the remaining nuances of the installation work in detailed instructions on how to properly install a heating radiator with your own hands.

Selection of heating devices by type and power

If you have not yet purchased batteries, then before installation you need to select heating radiators from 4 varieties available for sale:

1. Sectional aluminum. They are made from a light alloy - silumin (aluminum + silicon) in the form of ribbed sections, painted with a heat-resistant polymer composition.
2. Bimetallic heaters are made in two types - sectional and monolithic, although outwardly the finished batteries look the same. Construction: a frame made of steel pipes is embedded inside each silumin section.
3. Cast iron heating devices - designer and Soviet-style - are only available in sections.
4. Steel radiators are welded from stamped metal (panel) or made by casting (tubular).

Note. In addition to the heaters shown in the photo, there are copper and baseboard convectors. They are rarely used in water systems.

Select the type of heating devices according to two criteria: price and appearance that matches the interior of the rooms. One caveat: for the autonomous heating system of a private house, any batteries are suitable, and for an apartment with centralized heating - radiators that can withstand a pressure of 12 bar. in separate instructions.

The heat dissipation of batteries and registers is specified in the manufacturer's technical documentation. According to current standards, the power of radiator sections is indicated when the temperature difference between the coolant and room air is 70 °C.

For example, the room temperature is 20 degrees, the water in the pipes is 90 °C, then the section will give off approximately 180 W of heat. Since the coolant rarely heats up to 80-90 °C, the actual heat transfer will be much lower. Hence the conclusion: take radiators with a margin of 80-100%. Simplified in our material and in the video:

Almost all types of batteries are offered in 2 versions - with side or bottom connection. Here the choice depends on the method of laying the pipes and the arrangement of the connections. This means that before installation you need to consider the question...

About methods of connecting radiators

The connection diagram must be thought out in advance; the position of the heating device on the wall depends on this. Example: installing batteries with a bottom connection involves installing a headset with taps that takes up up to 10 cm of space under the heater. Imagine that 2 lines of a two-pipe system are laid above the baseboard, then with a low window sill the radiator simply will not fit into the niche.

Example two: you decide to make a replacement yourself - remove the old cast-iron “accordion” in your apartment and install a modern device. Iron distribution pipes will not allow for bottom connection - only side connection. To place the radiator in the middle of the window, you will have to build up pipes made of polypropylene or metal-plastic.

Battery connection methods:

1. Lateral scalene (diagonal). The coolant is supplied through the upper hole and comes out of the lower one on the opposite side, flowing evenly through the internal channels. Heat transfer is maximum, the radiator works efficiently.
2. Lateral – both eyeliners are connected from 1 side. Approximately 10% of the thermal power is lost, since the far part of the battery warms up worse.
3. The lower versatile scheme is used in horizontal single-pipe systems of the “Leningradka” type. The efficiency of the device decreases by 10-20% depending on the pressure created by the circulation pump.
4. A purely bottom coolant supply is not inferior to a diagonal one due to its design feature - through the first vertical channel, water rises to the upper zone of the radiator, and then diverges along the remaining ducts and collects below.

Schemes with lateral connections are more often implemented in traditional systems - two-pipe or single-pipe (except for Leningrad), which are mounted openly. Bottom supply is a more modern option; pipes from the boiler are laid in the floor, exiting directly under the battery.

4 types of radiator fittings

When starting water heating, the system must be balanced, and radiators must be repaired and flushed during operation. To solve these problems, the following shut-off and control valves are used:

• balancing valve;
• ball valve;
• thermostatic valve with thermal head;
• fitting for lower pipe supply.

Important point. When installing radiators, always use American-style taps - straight and angled. The connection with the union nut will allow you to remove the heater at any time without emptying the pipeline network.

How to install radiator fittings correctly:

1. When connecting a heating device to centralized heating, install 2 ball valves; a balancing valve is not needed. Option two: a valve with a thermal head can be provided on the supply line to automatically regulate the air temperature in the room.
2. Radiators in a private house are connected as follows: at the input there is a ball valve, at the output there is a balancing valve. If you want to regulate the flow automatically, install a thermal head instead of an inlet valve.
3. For bottom connection, use a special headset with a built-in balance valve from Danfoss, Herz Armaturen, Oventrop. There are models for installing a thermostat.

When replacing the battery in an apartment, do not forget to provide a bypass for direct flow of water through the riser. Equip the last radiator of the individual heating network of a country house with 2 shut-off valves; you will not have to balance it.

Battery location and height

Radiators should be installed in areas of greatest heat loss:

• traditional location - under the window, in the middle of the light opening (when viewed vertically);
• in the corridor near the front door;
• on staircase landings;
• near the cold walls of living rooms without window openings.

Explanation. When the battery is installed in a window sill, the rising convection flow mixes with cooled air from the window. If instead of an outer wall the room has stained glass windows, it is better to install water or electric convectors in the floor.

If heating radiators are installed under windows, maintain the following minimum clearances:

• from the outer wall – 2.5 cm;
• from the window sill – 50 mm;
• from the floor - 60...200 mm, depending on the type of heating device and the method of its connection.

Unlike aluminum and bimetallic batteries, the depth of steel panel radiators varies in a wide range - from 6 cm (type 10) to 160 mm (type 33). The thicker the battery, the more air it can pass and heat. This means that it is necessary to provide air supply from below and removal of warm flow from above the heater. Installation diagrams of different types of steel panels are shown in the drawing.

Recommendation. We do not recommend completely sewing up the radiator after installation, making 2 convective openings with grilles. You will lose all the infrared heat flow, which is at least 20% of the battery power. But the air under the casing will heat up to 30-40 °C, and due to the temperature difference between the street and the niche, heat loss will increase.

Installation instructions

To hang and connect the battery to the heating pipes, prepare the following components and materials:

• hooks with plastic dowels for attaching the radiator to the wall - at least 3 pcs.;
• 2 fittings (side plugs) with right-hand pipe threads, marked with the Latin letter D;
• 2 fittings with left-hand thread, marking – S;
• 1 (Maevsky tap) with key;
• 1 plug;
• sealing silicone thread or flax;
• faucet, balancing valve, thermostatic valve, fittings - according to the diagram;
• polypropylene, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes with an internal diameter of 10-15 mm for connections.

The number of fasteners depends on the size of the heating device. An aluminum battery of up to 10 sections must be mounted on 3 hooks or special brackets - 2 on top, 1 on bottom. In other cases, 4 fastenings are used.

Steel panels are sold assembled, hanging brackets are included. Heavy cast iron radiators for floor mounting are equipped with legs.

Tools you will need:

• electric drill and drill corresponding to the hardness of the wall;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• construction level;
• gas key;
• tape measure, pencil.

Pre-assembly

The radiator sections are pulled together by nipples - metal clamps on which left and right threads are cut (half the length). To connect, you need a long wrench with a nipple attachment; this is not available in the household. Hence the advice: ask to twist the sections right in the store.

Assemble the sectional battery in this order:

1. Clean the areas around the side holes.
2. Screw in 4 fittings from the ends and carefully tighten them with a gas wrench. Please note: plugs with regular threads must be screwed into the right ends of the radiator, with left-hand threads - into the left ones (if you look at the front side of the product).
3. Close the unused lower outlet with the plug included in the kit.
4. Using sealing material, pack and screw the Mayevsky tap into the upper channel.
5. In the remaining 2 holes, install the mating part of the American females, disconnected from the taps.

Important point. The American element with a union nut does not need to be screwed into the fitting until it stops. Otherwise, the nut will not move away from the edge and will not allow you to attach the valve itself. To screw it in, you will need a special internal key, but if you wish, you can get by with powerful pliers.

After installing the American ones, screw on the valves and tighten (by hand for now). Panel heaters do not require assembly, except that you will have to install an air vent. Do not remove the film from the case - it will protect the coating from accidental damage.

How to mark the radiator mount

We start with preparation - we remove the interfering objects, tear off the old wallpaper (in its place you can glue a reflective screen made of foil), dismantle the old battery in case of replacement. Be careful not to cut off the threads on steel wiring pipes with a grinder. It is better to clean it with a wire brush and unpack the coupling joint by unscrewing the nut.

Reference. If, for various reasons, the thread has become unusable, you will have to look for a set of pipe threads and cut the threads with new ones. In open heating systems operating under atmospheric pressure, the use of GEBO type crimp couplings is permitted.

How to make the correct markings for the battery:

1. Determine the middle of the window opening and mark it on the wall with a vertical line.
2. Stepping back 7-10 cm from the window sill, draw a horizontal line using a level. This line indicates the position of the upper end of the radiator.
3. Measure the distance from the center of the assembled battery to the suspension points, place it horizontally on both sides of the vertical line. The sectional heater can be placed against the wall and marks can be made opposite the two extreme joints.
4. Find out the size from the top panel to the radiator mounting point, set this distance down from the previous marks. Get the top drilling points.
5. The points of the lower suspensions are easy to determine: step back another 50 cm - this is the standard center-to-center distance of heaters. There are other sizes - 300, 600 mm and so on.

Before marking, be sure to check the horizontalness of the window sill. If it is not level, and you hang the battery level, then from the outside it will seem that the radiator is attached crookedly. Then you need to navigate by the slope of the window sill.

Point two: in order for the air to escape through the Mayevsky tap, the heater is installed with a slight slope. The side of the device where the air vent is located literally rises by 1–2 mm; visually such a distortion will remain invisible.

When replacing a radiator with a connection to existing pipes, you will have to measure their position relative to the window sill, then adjust it in height. The master will show you how to do this in the video:

Final stage

The final installation of heating radiators is carried out according to simple rules:

1. Drill holes, hammer in dowels and attach hangers. Hooks for sectional devices are screwed in taking into account the smallest indentation of 25 mm.
2. Hang the battery on the brackets and try on the eyeliners. For convenience, draw lines on the wall.
   
3. Remove the radiator and do the preliminary work - punch grooves for a hidden gasket, connect the connections to the lines, stick on a reflective screen.
4. Finally install the heating device, connect the pipes and tighten the American ones.

   In the photo on the left is a side connection unit with a bypass, on the right is a bottom connection with hidden connections

To successfully fill the system with coolant, leave the shut-off taps and valves open. The manual air vent must remain closed and is used while pumping water or antifreeze.

When replacing a central heating radiator during the high season, it is necessary to shut off the entire riser. Upon completion of installation, close the taps at the battery inlet, then supply water to the riser. When the noise of the coolant subsides, slowly open the top tap first, then the bottom. from the battery.

How to hang a battery on an insulated wall

Sometimes homeowners insulate external walls from the inside with a layer of polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick. When installing a radiator battery, a problem arises - the standard hooks are too short, and longer ones experience cantilever load and bend. It is clear that it is unrealistic to attach it to foam plastic, only to the wall.

Our expert Vitaly Dashko offers a simple solution in his video. The battery installation technology is as follows:

1. We mark the attachment points according to the instructions above.
2. We take a wooden beam 5 x 5 cm (or the thickness of the insulation) 600 mm long or the size of the bracket for a steel radiator.
3. We cut out a vertical recess in the polystyrene foam, insert a beam there and screw it to the wall with any fasteners - dowels, anchors, dowels.
4. We place the heating device on standard hangers attached to the bars.

Watch a video on installing a radiator on an insulated wall:

Conclusion

To install heating radiators with your own hands, you do not need to undergo any special training or have a specialized education. All you have to do is remember the installation nuances, watch a few videos from experienced professionals, and you can get to work. The only caveat: batteries should be secured securely, especially cast iron ones. Drawdown or breakage of the bracket will lead to the leakage of coolant, sometimes quite hot 😊.

The heating system is one of the main engineering systems in a house, be it a country cottage or an ordinary apartment. We can forget about it in the summer, but with the onset of cold weather in our latitudes, it is basically impossible to live without it. The heating system consists of many elements. For example, autonomous and centralized heating differ in parameters, but each of them will have a device such as a radiator.

A radiator is the final device that transfers the energy of the coolant in the pipes to the premises. If you decide to save money and install heating radiators yourself, then be sure to study this article. After all, the efficiency of heating, and therefore your further comfort and even safety, greatly depends on the correct thermal calculation, selection and installation of equipment.

Types of heating batteries

A heating radiator (often called a “battery” in everyday life) is a device consisting of separate hollow sections within which coolant circulates. Its main task is to increase the radiating surface area in order to increase the amount of heat transferred to the room. Heat is transferred primarily by convection, when warmer air masses rise and are replaced by colder ones. A small part is also contributed by radiation and thermal conductivity.

Based on manufacturing methods, batteries can be divided into two types: collapsible and non-removable. Collapsible radiators are assembled from single vertical sections connected by seals - radiator nipples. The number of sections is selected according to the calculated thermal power.

Sectioned aluminum radiator

Non-separable or panel radiators are monolithic structures that use only welding and casting. Due to the smaller number of connections, such devices are more reliable, but less versatile.

Wiring methods

First of all, it is necessary to distinguish two general schemes of heating systems: one-pipe and two-pipe.

In a single-pipe system, radiators are connected in series, and one pipe is used for hot and cooled coolant. This scheme is more demanding in selecting the diameter of the pipes, and the number of heating devices should not exceed 4 - 5 with a total pipeline length of up to 30 m. Since the water cools when passing through the radiators and giving off heat to them, the radiators located lower down the riser should have a larger power (i.e. surface area) to compensate for the lower coolant temperature.

It is important! As the name suggests, the two-pipe scheme involves the use of two pipes: for hot coolant (supply) and cooled coolant (return). All radiators are connected in parallel to the system, and water flows into them at approximately the same temperature.

Video: replacing batteries

After installing the radiators, pressure testing of the heating system must be carried out - pumping coolant into the system under pressure several times higher than the working one, and monitoring leaks for a short period of time. This step cannot be omitted, since it guarantees the continued uninterrupted operation of the heating system. If you don't know how to do this, call a plumber. In addition to knowledge, crimping requires a special pump, which makes no sense to buy just once.

The installation or reconstruction of a heating system involves the installation or replacement of heating devices. The good news is that, if you wish, you can handle this yourself without the involvement of specialists. How heating radiators should be installed, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. The set of necessary materials is almost the same, but for cast iron batteries, for example, the plugs are large, and they do not install a Mayevsky valve, but instead, somewhere at the highest point of the system, they install an automatic air vent. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - they come with brackets, and on the back panel there are special arms cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This is a small device for releasing air that may accumulate in the radiator. Placed on the free upper outlet (collector). It must be on every heating device when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is significantly smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so you will also need an adapter, but Mayevsky taps usually come complete with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connection dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be installed on radiators, but they are slightly larger in size and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

The side-connected radiator has four outputs. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they install a Mayevsky valve. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. It, like most modern batteries, is most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves that can be adjusted. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repairs, replacement during the heating season). In this case, even if something happens to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the disadvantage is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it less), and they look better externally; they are available in straight and angular versions, so the piping itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can install a thermostat on the coolant supply after the ball valve. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of a heating device. If the radiator does not heat well, you cannot install them - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different thermostats for batteries - automatic electronic ones, but more often they use the simplest one - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

• if there are no more than 8 sections or the length of the radiator is no more than 1.2 m, two mounting points on top and one on the bottom are sufficient;
• For every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

You also need fum tape or linen winding, and plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (preferably a level, but a regular bubble one will do), and a certain number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipes. That's all.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cuts off the cold from the window. To prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heating device must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It must be installed:

How to install correctly

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can support even lightweight aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or covered with plasterboard, floor installation is required. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators come directly with legs, but not everyone is satisfied with their appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, and the lower collector is secured with an arc to the installed legs. Similar legs are available with adjustable height and some with a fixed height. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Options for piping heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators involves connecting them to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

• saddle;
• one-sided;
• diagonal.

If you install radiators with a bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with a side connection ().

Strapping with one-sided connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be double-pipe or single-pipe (the most common option). Metal pipes are still used in apartments, so we’ll consider the option of tying the radiator with steel pipes on pipes. In addition to pipes of a suitable diameter, you need two ball valves, two tees and two bends - parts with external threads at both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. With a one-pipe system, a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or draining the system. You cannot put the tap on the bypass - you will block the flow of coolant through the riser, which is unlikely to make your neighbors happy and, most likely, you will be fined.

All threaded connections are sealed with fum tape or linen winding, over which packaging paste is applied. When screwing the valve into the radiator manifold, much winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except cast iron. When installing all the others, please do not be fanatical.

If you have the skills/opportunity to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower entrance, taps, of course, are needed.

With bottom wiring (pipes laid on the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly; in this case, it is much better to use a diagonal connection.

Strapping with diagonal connection

Installing heating radiators with diagonal connections is the best option in terms of heat transfer. In this case it is the highest. With bottom wiring, this type of connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - the supply on this side is at the top, the return on the other is at the bottom.

A single-pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look as good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With bottom wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and least noticeable.

With a saddle connection and lower single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed; if necessary, you can remove the radiator and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeegee (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen rarely - the heat losses are too large (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators