Take a seedling. Landscaping on your own, or where to get planting material? Grafting apple and pear trees with cuttings of new varieties

I have been growing my own rooted apple trees on my summer cottage for a long time.

Everyone knows that apple trees are propagated by grafting cuttings cultivar to the appropriate rootstock. Basically, various dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks are used for this purpose, which provide a faster period of fruiting, enable the apple tree to develop well and actively bear fruit.

I use a less common method of propagating fruit trees - this is rooting the branches of a cultivated variety, and then growing the resulting seedlings as rooted apple trees. Many of these seedlings have already grown into full-fledged apple trees and produce an excellent harvest of tasty fruits. Neighbors no longer ask naive questions about whether these seedlings will grow into wild animals? The seedlings I gave them have long since begun to bear fruit with beautiful apples of the propagated variety.

I carefully bend the selected shoot and dig it into a small groove to a depth10 cm, securing it in this position with a suitable flyer peg made from a maple tree growing next to the site. Over time, it will rot and will not interfere with planting the young seedling in a new place. Digging should be done so that the stem remains above the surface of the ground30-40 cm. In order not to accidentally damage the seedling, I stick a metal bent meter rod nearby.

I usually do this work in the spring, because if you put it off until summer, the seedling will take a year longer to take root. The excavations made do not require much care; you just need to water them at least once a week and clear them of weeds. , then it is imperative to get rid of it in any available way, otherwise this pest can severely damage young buried shoots.

The next year, at the beginning of summer, when it becomes clear that the buried seedlings are actively growing, I carefully cut them off from the mother tree with pruners. Some poorly rooted young apple trees may wilt a little. They are needed shade and water more often until they return to normal.

Thus, I have propagated and propagated the varieties of apple trees Gornoaltaiskoe, Phoenix, Radiant, Zavetnoe, Autumn Joy, Gift of the Gardener, Uralskoe Nalivnoe, etc. The most important thing is that I now always have a supply of seedlings of the required variety.

Those who will use this method should keep in mind that large-fruited apple trees take root less well. For some, it may take even two years for rooting, and they also do not have a very frost-resistant root system, so I cover the trunk circle of such apple trees with a layer of pine needles for the winter. You can use any other available material for this. Then, even in the coldest snowless winter, the roots will be perfectly preserved.

This method of propagating apple trees attracts me with its simplicity, and the fact that it takes a lot of time to obtain a seedling does not bother me at all, because I always dig in advance and with a reserve. And those apple trees that turn out to be superfluous to me, I simply distribute to numerous gardening friends. And no one refuses! In general, currently at my dacha all apple trees are rooted, which I don’t regret at all!

The article talks about where to get planting material (Siberian cedar seedlings) and what rules must be followed when planting and caring for it in the first years of life.

If you have a great desire to landscape the area near your house, cottage or dacha with Siberian cedar seedlings, then you need to ask yourself where to get the planting material. There are several options: you can buy ready-made planting material, or you can dig up and plant Siberian cedar yourself.

It should be taken into account that seedlings of this noble coniferous species can be planted in the spring after frost and in the fall before the first frost. It is advisable to take plants that are grown nearby in similar conditions to avoid difficult adaptation during the acclimatization process. To do this, you need to find the nearest forestry or special nursery. You can select and purchase young healthy plants in bulk from them.

If there are no such enterprises nearby, then you can dig up such small trees in forest belts, near oil pipeline routes and other places, by obtaining the appropriate permission from the forestry department. Do not engage in poaching or theft under any circumstances. Such actions are qualified as an administrative offense and are punishable by a considerable fine.

After you have decided on the place to collect planting material and have taken the necessary permission, you need to choose a time for this work so that you can plant the dug plants in a new place in one day. Pay special attention to tree roots. Try to dig carefully so as not to damage them. Try to plant cedar in well-moistened soil. Remember that damage to the root system and insufficient moisture often lead to the death or disease of young cedar trees.

However, if you buy ready-made planting material, then you will avoid these mistakes. Since the root system of such plants will not be damaged, and you will definitely be advised on proper planting and care. You can find such consulting information in our region by visiting the Siberian Cedar online store.

A common mistake that amateur gardeners make is planting Siberian cedar seedlings alone. As you know, coniferous trees must be pollinated when flowering in order to bear fruit. Wind helps cross-pollination by moving pollen from one tree to another. And if there is no other plant of this species nearby, then pollination occurs in the conditions of one tree, which negatively affects the future development of the fruit. The seeds in the cones either do not appear at all, or grow small and underdeveloped. But the problem of crossing does not disappear even when all the seedlings are from the same nursery and are related. Preferably buy planting material in different nurseries.

Young trees should be planted in small groups of three to four seedlings at a distance of five to eight meters between them. To avoid creating a feeling of emptiness, plant bushes or other low-growing plants in the free space. Lupine gets along well with Siberian cedar. It is also an excellent natural fertilizer for cedar.

Also make sure that young trees grow in sufficiently moist and lighted places. If necessary, additionally water and fertilize the soil. Take time to form the crown: remove excess branches, and treat the cut areas with a special solution to avoid contamination of the bark with fungi and bacteria.

If all of the above simple rules of care are taken into account and followed, then you are guaranteed to get tall, healthy, fruit-bearing Siberian cedars on your site.

When propagating by shoots, only own-rooted varieties are used. For example, Vladimirskaya, Shubinka, Fertile Lavrushina, Apukhtinskaya, Moscow Griot, Rusinka.

If you are not sure of the origin of a variety, you can distinguish a rooted tree from a grafted one by the root suckers.

Around grafted trees, they have a different color of shoots and leaves, the size and shape of the buds from the mother tree. The root shoots of self-rooted plants are no different in appearance from the native tree.

For propagation, shoots grown near the trunk are not taken for two reasons.

Firstly, it does not have fibrous roots, and secondly, when harvesting it, the skeletal root is damaged, which weakens the tree.

The shoots that grow 2-3 meters from the trunk have a more developed root system.

They dig it up in the fall (in September) or in the spring before the buds open (in April). If there is a lot of growth, it is better to take biennial plants with a low (not elongated) stem and a well-developed root system.

Annuals have a poorly developed aerial part, and shoots older than two years usually have weak roots.

Having chosen a suitable coppice plant, they dig up the root cord and, stepping back 15-20 cm on both sides, cut it down.

The dug-out shoots, depending on the development of the above-ground and root systems, are either grown in beds with well-fertilized loose soil, or planted for permanent residence.

You can immediately obtain strong coppice planting material. To do this, early in the spring, with a sharpened shovel, cut the main root from the side of the tree at a distance of 15-20 cm from the coppice plant.

In summer, the soil around it is fertilized with rotted manure, watered, loosened, and weeded. In response to such care, fibrous roots are formed.

In autumn, the main root is cut off on the other side, also at a distance of 15-20 cm from the coppice plant.

Such shoots can be immediately planted for permanent residence.

But even in this case, it should not be grafted, but its own roots.

Propagation by root cuttings is carried out in several stages. In autumn (September) or spring (April) the skeletal roots of the tree are dug up.

For cuttings, roots with a diameter of 0.5-1.5 cm are selected, cut into pieces 15-20 cm long and planted in beds with loose, moist soil. It is obtained by adding a mixture of equal parts of peat and sand.

Root cuttings are planted obliquely, with the upper ends buried 1-2 cm into the ground. To avoid losing them, planting sites are marked with pegs. The beds are watered abundantly and covered with peat or sawdust (5-7 cm layer). If the operation is performed in the fall, then for better overwintering, the top is still covered with dry leaves.

The next stage is caring for the planted cuttings. In the spring, the bed is shaded (with burlap or other material), watered, not allowing the soil to dry out, otherwise they will not germinate. When several shoots appear on the cutting, the strongest one is left, the rest are removed.

During the growth period in summer, the cuttings are fed: 1st time with urea (20 g per bucket of water), 2nd time with complex mineral fertilizer (30 g per bucket of water) and 3rd time with slurry diluted with water 1:10.

In the fall, the strongest plants are dug up and planted in a permanent place, and the rest are grown for another season. If desired, new varieties can be grafted onto them, that is, used as rootstocks.

For better rooting, overnight the tips of the cuttings (2-3 cm) are placed in a heteroauxin solution (100-150 ml per 1 liter of water). Planted in a greenhouse.

To create it, dig a pit 40 cm deep. Drainage from crushed stone or pebbles is laid at the bottom, a mixture of peat and sand (10-12 cm), taken in the same ratio, is poured on top, then a layer of coarse oven sand (3-5 cm). The cuttings are planted vertically, deepening them to 2 cm. After planting, the greenhouse must be covered with film.

For a month, the leaves are sprayed 2-3 times a day. After 2 weeks, the first feeding is carried out, after another 2 weeks the second, after a month the third. Feed with complex mineral fertilizer using 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water.

After the formation of roots and with active growth of the above-ground part, the film cover is removed. At the end of October, rooted cuttings are dug up, placed in a plastic bag and stored at a temperature of minus 1-3°C in the refrigerator or buried on the site.

The pit is covered with sawdust and later covered with snow. In the spring they are planted in a garden bed, grown for 1-2 years and transplanted to a permanent place.

source

Cherry is a tasty and healthy berry. Having one bush in the garden, the gardener eventually develops a desire to increase the number. In order not to buy new seedlings, it can be propagated and grown.

Cherries propagate in several ways, not only by planting in the ground, but also at home:

1. Cuttings
2. Vaccination
3. Bones
4. Overgrowth
5. By layering

Propagating cherries by cuttings is not difficult. If you follow some rules and conditions, you can achieve good results., and get several new cherry bushes without buying it.

Propagation of cherries by root cuttings

In summer, cut cuttings from cherries. Cuttings should be harvested in the morning or evening. They should be hard and reddened. The upper cut is above the kidney, and the lower cut is under the kidney with a distance of 1 cm. The cuttings are 30 cm long. All undeveloped leaves should be removed. Place the cut cuttings in water.

Prepare a place for rooting cuttings. For the process to go well, you need to:

1. Dig up the area for planting.
2. Make beds.
3. Dig a ditch in the beds.
4. Place drainage on the bottom (coarse sand or pebbles are suitable for drainage).
5. Place a fertile layer of soil on the drainage layer (mix the soil with humus, add superphosphate, wood ash and nitrogen fertilizers).
6. Water.

Now we begin to plant the prepared cherry cuttings. Planting should be done at a distance of 8-10 cm. To a depth of 3 cm. Place the cutting vertically. It is best to do this in the evening.

During the first time of planting, it is recommended to water and ventilate from time to time. After two weeks, the seedlings will have roots. After another two weeks, the cuttings take root completely. Continue caring for young bushes until next spring. Care consists of weeding, loosening and watering.

You can propagate cherries from cuttings not only by planting them in the ground at the dacha, but also at home. To do this, take containers of sufficient depth. Fill them with loose soil. Plant the prepared cuttings in containers. Cover the plantings with film or another transparent container. Keep the film on until the cuttings are completely rooted. Please note that plantings must be ventilated.

Many gardeners use grafting or budding to propagate cherries. It is used to obtain varietal cherries.

In order for budding to be successful, wild seedlings are taken or a rootstock is grown from seeds. The bushes must be 2 years old. Planting bushes in spring. The shoots for grafting are cut in the northern regions in late autumn. In the southern regions, immediately before vaccination. The best period for budding is considered to be the period from June 20 to July 15.

Cherry grafting by bark

Cutting branches from young trees. The pieces must be at least 35 cm. Place the pieces in warm water. Using a sharp knife, cut out eyes and buds from the segments. It is better to carry out vaccination using the improved budding method, that is, in the butt with a tongue.

Budding work is carried out in cloudy weather. After half a month, check for survival and loosen the bandage. In winter, in order to protect the budding site from freezing, it is necessary to bud up to the grafting site.

In early spring, prune grafted rootstocks. Leave a thorn. A shoot from a germinating bud is tied to it. The shoot is tied at the very beginning of growth, then after half a month. At the beginning of July, cut off the thorn completely. During the summer season, grafted seedlings continue to be cared for:

1. Loosen the ground around the bushes.
2. Weeds are being pulled out.
3. Water regularly.
4. Fertilizers are applied.

Grafting cherries onto cherries gives good results.. This is how excellent varieties Sashenka, Kubanskaya, Chudo-cherry, Nadezhda, Poppy, Yuzhnaya, Dessertnaya Morozova were obtained.

Some varieties of cherries can be grown from seeds. They will bear fruit just like the mother varieties. Some grown seedlings can serve as a rootstock for grafting other varieties. How to grow cherries from pits?

Ripe berries are chosen for sowing. The seeds are cleared of pulp and washed in water. Afterwards the seeds are dried. The seeds are planted in the ground at the end of September.. Therefore, to preserve until planting time, place the seeds in damp sand and place in a cool place.

To plant seeds, prepare the bed in advance. Dig up the soil. Remove weeds. Apply fertilizer. Now start sowing. The seeds are placed in the ground to a depth of 3-4 cm. Place a 5 cm layer of peat on top.

If cherry pits are sown in the spring, they must undergo stratification. This period is 200 days. To stratify, place the seeds in sand. Moisten and place in the cellar at a temperature of +5-6 degrees. If there is no cellar, dig a trench 60-80 cm deep. Place seeds at the bottom and cover with peat. Finished bones are determined by cracking or breaking along the seam.

Such seeds are sown in early spring to a depth of 5-6 cm.. The seeds are planted with a distance of 3-5 cm and row spacing of 30 cm.

Cover the plantings with a layer of humus or peat. Further care consists of watering, loosening and weeding.

Sprouted cherry pits

During the growth of the bush, remove the side branches that grow on the lower shoots. These branches are removed so that in the future they do not interfere with budding.

With the onset of autumn, the seedlings are carefully dug up. If possible, trying not to damage the root system. A few days before digging, wipe off the leaves from the seedlings.

Sort seedlings into categories:

• First category- root collar with a diameter of 7-9 mm.
• Second category- root collar thickness 5-7 mm.
• Third category or marriage- include seedlings with a root collar thickness of less than 5 mm.

Cherry seedling from pit

Trim the roots of seedlings. Leave 10-12 cm. To preserve them until spring, you need to dig them in a trench. It should be placed in an inclined position. With the onset of spring, plant the seedlings in a permanent place.

Propagation of cherries by shoots is considered one of the easiest ways. This method is most often used by gardeners in the Urals and Siberia. Trees grown in this way have the ability to recover faster after freezing.. Such plants have higher winter hardiness.

To avoid overgrowth of unnecessary bushes, varietal or own-rooted bushes are taken for propagation by shoots. In such cherries, plants similar to the mother ones will grow from the shoots.

Reproduction of cherries by basal shoots

The disadvantage of growing cherries from shoots is that they begin to bear fruit later than grafted ones.. Infestation of row spacing with growth. But despite all the shortcomings, this method is easy to propagate and it is possible to obtain excellent, winter-hardy plants.

Choose a bush that has less growth around it. Among her, choose a developed and strong one, which is 1-2 years old. It is not worth taking older plants, because they feed on the mother bush and as a result, a weak root system. Also, shoots that are located closer than 1 m are not suitable.

Cut off the root that comes from the mother bush. Leave the bush in place until it develops its own strong root system. The above-ground part must be shortened by about ⅓ of the part. Fertilize a couple of times during the growing season. Regular watering is required. The next year, plants with a strong root system are transplanted to a permanent location., and the rest, the weaker ones, grow up.

Layerings are the rooted above-ground part of the plant. Propagation by layering is simple and accessible to any gardener, even a beginner. There are two ways. First way- these are vertical layers. Second- horizontal.

To propagate cherries in this way, you need to trim the above-ground part of the bush. This procedure is done when the bush is at rest.

Propagation of fruit and berry rootstocks by vertical layering

After the shoots begin to grow, they begin to hill up. These shoots will grow roots in the soil. You need to hill up several times until the height of the mound reaches 15-20 cm. After a year, separate the rooted cuttings from the mother bush and transplant them to a permanent place.

To propagate by horizontal layering, take a branch and carefully bend it to the ground. To prevent it from returning to its original position, it should be attached to the ground using a fork-shaped pin. Cover the pinning area with soil and water generously.. Further care consists of watering, fertilizing and weeding.

From the above it is clear that propagating cherries is very simple and accessible for every gardener. Moreover, there are several methods of reproduction and from them, everyone can choose for themselves the one with which it will be easier to work.

source

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GREEN CUTTINGS
How to get a new seedling from an old but good tree variety or how to preserve a drying tree variety.

Your favorite apple tree is frozen after a harsh winter and is beginning to die! What a shame! After all, this apple tree had the largest, juiciest apples. Buy a new seedling? But you don’t remember the name of the variety (oh, how often this happens!). What to do in such a situation? First of all, there is no need to be upset! If the tree has its own roots, then the tree must be cut into a stump. The stump needs to be watered generously and fed with liquid fertilizer. Highly fertile soil should be poured around the stump and a hill should be formed. In two to three months, new shoots will appear (from the mound). Next year, early in the spring, you need to separate the young seedling from the stump and plant it in a permanent place.

Secondly, if the dying tree was grafted, the first way to obtain a seedling that has and repeats the parental properties is impossible. What to do in this case? As a rule, a tree does not die immediately under unfavorable conditions. There are still a few living branches on the tree. From these, you can get new seedlings using the cutting method.

How to properly use green cuttings.

Watch the video. By the way, all types of plants can be propagated using this method. To make you happy with the survival rate and yield of seedlings, prepare more cuttings.

Dear beginners in gardening, many of you do not know how to take cuttings and plant a cutting. A good cheat sheet for you will be the message that you can read here.

(Click on the word and a page with a message will open for you) I wish you all the best!

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Cherry is a short-lived crop; you should always have a replacement on hand. In garden plots it is often propagated by root shoots. This is not a difficult matter, but there are some subtleties that you need to know in order to get a fruit-bearing tree.

The first self-rooted cherry came into our garden quite by accident. A friend brought a small tree.

He took a seedling from his friend, from whom he always bought cherries. And for the past ten years it has been bearing fruit almost every year, producing large, beautiful, slightly sour cherries to the envy of its two varietal, grafted, but low-yielding neighbors.

At the same time, the savage produces little shoots. This crop has the following pattern: the more productive the cherry, the less shoots it produces.

Now I propagate it for my garden and distribute it to friends.

Growing cherries from root shoots is not difficult. In the spring, at a distance of 15-20 cm from the selected cherry, I cut the root coming from the mother plant on both sides. I don’t dig up the seedling, but leave it in place. Over the summer, it should form its root system and begin an independent life. If there are several plants on the root, I leave the one I like, and cut out the rest as close to the root as possible.

You need to take shoots only from own-rooted (ungrafted) cherries, since they are usually grafted onto seedlings of local resistant varieties or onto wild forms of cherries. The shoots taken from them will inherit the qualities of the wild rootstock.

It is better not to take shoots located close to the trunk of the mother bush, as they usually have an underdeveloped aerial part and root system. In addition, when digging it up, the roots of the mother plant are severely damaged.

I loosen the soil around the selected seedling and tie it to a peg. Then all summer I water and feed the young cherries. With good care, after a year it is ready to be transplanted to a permanent place.

The cherry tree was cut down 2 years ago, but we are still struggling with its growth. She, like a weed, makes her way here and there throughout the garden. How to get rid of growth once and for all?

Unfortunately, at present there is no such effective method that would allow removing cherry shoots once and for all in one year. This is due to the biological characteristics of most varieties and types of cherries. Cherry is capable of producing above-ground shoots from adventitious buds on the main and lateral roots - root shoots (or root shoots), which serve for vegetative propagation. So almost all the roots of a cut cherry tree, left in the soil, can eventually produce young shoots. The cardinal method of control is to dig up the entire area with an excavator or tractor and then remove the roots. It’s quick, but quite expensive, and it’s not suitable for every summer cottage. The simplest and most affordable way is to use herbicides. If the “chemical” method is not suitable and you prefer a more environmentally friendly method - mechanical, then it is necessary to dig up the shoots every year in early spring and late autumn and destroy them. During the season, emerging shoots should also be removed, leaving them no opportunity to gain strength.

Is it possible to plant a garden entirely from shoots?

It is possible if we are talking about stone fruits - plums, cherries, cherries. In this case, you need to be sure that the trees are rooted (not grafted). If you take shoots from grafted plants, wild plants will grow in the garden. But even in this case, you shouldn’t be upset - the same vaccination will help out.

When you buy a cherry seedling, be sure to ask what rootstock it sits on. You cannot buy a plant grafted onto a sprout seedling: you will endlessly struggle with the sprouts. The vegetatively propagated rootstock of a cherry seedling must be zoned, with a highly winter-hardy root system. It must be grown near you (there is no point in planting plants from the southern region). The following rootstocks are widely used: VSL-1, which reduces growth by 50-60%; VSL-2, which reduces growth by 20%, is immune to coccomycosis (but it is not compatible with all varieties of cherries), as well as LC-52, which ensures accelerated fruiting. The Logri rootstock is considered promising, and some varieties grafted onto it produce 2-3 buckets of cherries every year.

This spring I grafted cherry trees for the first time. When should the winding be removed?

Did the ash help?
Somehow a young, but already fruit-bearing cherry tree was transplanted from one plot to another. The tree bloomed well in the spring, but in the summer there was not a single berry. That same fall, my husband dug a shallow groove along the diameter of the tree trunk circle, brought in 1 cup of ash and covered it with earth again. Already in the next season, cherries gave a good harvest.
And in order to protect the berries from birds, I sewed a bag from tulle and threw it over the crown as soon as the fruits began to ripen.
When replanting a tree, part of the root system is always destroyed. Therefore, in the first year of growth in a new place, lost roots are restored to the detriment of the above-ground part of the tree. Consequently, the growth decreases and the fruits that set fall off. With good care and possibly fertile soil, your tree will fully recover and bear fruit next year. The introduced ash did not play a significant role in this regard, because one glass is a small amount of batteries.

By separating the shoots of fruit trees, own-rooted plants are obtained. Their feature is high productivity, endurance and adaptability to local conditions. You can propagate root varieties of plums (‘Skorospelka’, ‘Hungarian Moskovskaya’, ‘Tula Black’, etc.) and cherries (‘Vladimirskaya’, ‘Shubinka’, ‘Rastunya’, ‘Saika’) using shoots. Keep in mind that coppiced trees begin to bear fruit later than grafted ones, but they are more durable. It is better to take shoots from productive trees away from the trunk (there they have a more developed root system). This should be done early in the spring and immediately planted in a permanent place.

Three questions
The hawthorn did not give birth to us, although I know the reason: it grew from a seed and is not fruitful. Wood is like stone. My husband cut it down. The shoot has grown, the neighbor says to leave it - maybe it will work out. This year it bloomed halfway, only from below, and birds love it very much.
The cherry tree disappears - the leaves become lighter, the veins are dark and dry. What's the matter?
My pear is seven or eight years old. It began to bloom about three years ago - first a few flowers, then a little more, this year the top bloomed well, but the flowers withered and then turned black, and that’s all. New branches appeared, but in the spring they also turned black and the bark burst. I poured vitriol on her (a matchbox on a bucket of water). I don’t know how to help.

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To know how to grow cherries on your plot of land, you need to understand how this crop reproduces. After all, this will allow you not to spend money on new seedlings, but to propagate the tree with the help of natural formations. Today, cherry cultivation is carried out using four methods:

When choosing a propagation method, remember that the procedure can be carried out in spring or summer. Let's look at each method in more detail.

Propagating cherries by cuttings is considered the easiest way. This is a variant of vegetative propagation. Preparation of shoots begins in the summer - in June. You should choose green cuttings that harden and acquire a purple-red color at the base. If suitable branches are found, they should be cut from the mother tree. The best time for harvesting is the evening and morning periods. The weather should be cool.

Felt cherry is propagated by cuttings using previously prepared branches about 30 cm long. After cutting, they should be placed in water. In order for the cuttings to quickly take root, it is necessary to drop a growth regulator into the water. You can determine the required dosage using the instructions that come with the drug. Typically, heteroauxin is used for these purposes.

Cherry cuttings are tied into one bunch of 30 pieces. They are placed in water or a specially prepared solution for 18 hours. Each branch should be immersed 1.5 cm.

While the cut branches are standing in the water, you can prepare the beds. They are filled with a layer of soil mixture consisting of sand and peat. This layer should have a thickness of 10 cm. Coarsely graded sand is laid on top and leveled. Before the cuttings are planted, the prepared beds should be well moistened and mineral fertilizer (for example, superphosphate) should be added to them.

If a growth stimulator was used when preparing the branches, then planting should be done in the morning. Otherwise, the procedure is performed in the evening, but not during the day.

Propagation of cherries by green cuttings involves proper care of the branches after planting them in pre-prepared soil. After planting, the branches are covered with film. She should stay in the garden for about a month. During this period, watering the plants is done using a sprayer or watering can. If the care was correct, then after 14 days the branches will form roots. Green cuttings should not be done later, as it will be very difficult to root overgrown branches.

Reproduction by layering involves creating the same conditions and care for rooted cuttings in the future as for ordinary seedlings.

As you can see, cuttings are a simple process. This method is ideal for the following varieties: Turgenevka, Molodezhnaya, Polevka, Shubinka and Vladimirskaya.

How to propagate felt cherry or any other variety as efficiently as possible? To do this, you can use vaccination. This method, when performed correctly, gives very good results.

Two- or one-year-old wild seedlings are used here. They will be grafted with the best varieties that have the characteristics necessary for the gardener (for example, early ripening, etc.).

Harvesting of shoots can be carried out both in the spring (in the southern regions) and in the first ten days of winter. Branches must have a diameter of at least 5 mm. Felt is removed from them (if it is formed due to the characteristics of the variety). Sections of the samples taken must be placed in water at room temperature for a couple of hours. Then several cuttings are cut from one shoot. Each segment must have at least 4 buds.

To prevent drying out, each shoot is treated with a special paraffin-wax mixture. If such treatment has taken place, then after grafting the cuttings should be covered with plastic wrap and not removed until new shoots are formed.

Vaccination must be carried out before the stage of active sap flow. Therefore, the best time would be mid-March.

The following varieties can be propagated in this way: Fertile Michurina, Miracle Cherry, Sashenka, Yuzhnaya, etc.

Cherries propagate not only by cuttings and seedlings, but also by seeds. However, this is not the best propagation option for cherries. The seeds taken for these purposes can be planted in autumn or spring. If the gardener took the seed of a purchased berry, then it can be planted in the summer.

If you start growing seeds in the spring, then they should be washed well and treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Next, without drying it, you need to place it in moistened moss or sawdust. If planting is carried out in the fall (October), then the seed sample is placed immediately in its permanent place of growth. To do this, dig a hole 3–4 cm deep. A distance of 25–30 cm should be maintained between the holes. You can immediately pour 4–5 seeds into the hole. After winter, young shoots will begin to appear at the planting site.

It must be said that it is difficult to propagate fruit trees in this way, since the seeds do not always produce shoots. Cherries grown in this way will grow somewhat slower than when layering is used for propagation. And varietal species do not always pass on their characteristics to their offspring.

The list of varieties propagated by seeds includes: Shubinka, Polzhir Magalebskaya, etc. Felt cherries are also often propagated by seeds.

Another method of propagation is from shoots. It is very easy to breed cherries using this method. Often used in the northern regions of the country.

Here you need to know that not all young animals will be able to take root or transmit all the characteristics of the mother’s body. In order for a rooted shoot to bear fruit well, take only a healthy and strong shoot. It is not recommended to use closely growing and perennial shoots. It is best to give preference to two-year-old shoots that have a developed root system and branches.

Suitable specimens should be selected in the spring. They should grow at a distance of 20 cm from the mother tree. Using a shovel you need to cut the root of the selected shoot. Before this, the mother tree must be well fertilized. You should also loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle. In the fall, such shoots can be replanted.

The disadvantage of this method is that many varieties give a low percentage of shoot survival. This method is well suited for several varieties: Apukhtinskaya, Fertile Michurina, Rastunya, Lyubskaya, etc.

Knowing how cherry trees are propagated by shoots, you can quickly and cheaply create a cherry orchard on your site. Especially if you combine several methods of reproduction for greater efficiency.

From this video you will learn how to properly root green cuttings.

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Planting cherries is not a very labor-intensive process, but it requires compliance with certain rules. Its development and fruiting depend on how and when the cherry was planted.

Successful cherry growing depends on 3 main components:

• choosing a healthy seedling,
• preparing the landing site,
• choosing the right time to plant a seedling.

It should be said right away that the dream of many novice summer residents who want to get a fruit-bearing cherry tree from a seed very rarely comes true. The fact is that it is impossible to predict whether an experiment will be successful or unsuccessful.

The same applies to the root shoots. For example, if your neighbor has a cherry tree that bears fabulous fruit every year, this does not mean that the shoots of this plant will produce an excellent harvest if planted. Although the shoots of self-rooted cherries produce fruit, they do not have the quality of the berries of the mother plant, and the shoots of grafted cherries do not produce fruit at all.

Thus, in order to grow a healthy, frost-resistant and well-bearing tree, it is worth purchasing grafted seedlings at the garden market. It is best to do this in the fall - the assortment at this time is very diverse. In this case, you should pay attention to the appearance of the seedling:

• high-quality young plants have a well-developed root system, but, on the contrary, there are few branches;
• the seedling should be about 1 m high;
• the plant should not show signs of disease or damage.

If you bought a seedling in the fall, you need to bury it in the garden for the winter, making a hole in the ground and laying the seedlings horizontally there. The roots need to be covered with soil. This way the plant will safely survive the cold season, and in the spring cherries can be planted.

• When choosing a cherry seedling, pay attention to the variety. It should be suitable for growing in your climate zone and also be disease resistant.
• If your region experiences dry summers, you should choose varieties that tolerate drought well.
• It also depends on the variety whether the cherry will take the form of a bush or tree.

Cherries are planted in a permanent location in the spring, before the buds begin to bloom on the trees. But if you find an excellent seedling in early autumn (a month before the soil freezes), then you can have time to plant it in the garden. Also, when planting a seedling before winter, the tree needs to be well hilled (to a height of 30-40 cm). This procedure will help protect the roots of young cherries from frost.

To plant cherries, it is better to choose a place protected from strong winds. Therefore, it should be planted closer to the fence, where there are no drafts. And in winter, a lot of snow accumulates near the fence, which protects the roots of the tree from frostbite.

The place where cherries are grown should be well lit. In addition, take note that the plant does not like swampy soil. Light, fertile soil with a neutral reaction is best suited for a cherry tree.

Step 1. Dig a hole 50 cm deep and 80 cm wide. At the same time, try to lay out the dug soil so that the top fertile layer of soil is on one side of the hole, and the lower one on the other.

Step 2. Place a peg in the hole and place a mound of topsoil around it.

Step 3. Place the seedling in the hole so that its root collar (the place where the root system enters the trunk) is at ground level. Spread the roots of the seedling.

In order for the seedling to take root better and faster, the roots of the plant can be dipped in a mixture of manure and clay.

Step 4. Fill the hole with soil from the lower layer of soil, compact it and make a groove around the seedling for watering.

Step 5. Pour 2 buckets of water into the furrow and tie the young plant to a figure eight peg.

There is nothing complicated about planting cherries. However, whether the tree will take root and how well it will continue to grow and bear fruit depends on the correct execution of all actions.

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Cherry trees are very popular among gardeners. If you want to start a cherry orchard, but don’t know how to propagate cherries, read this article. Cherry propagation is a relatively simple procedure that requires minimal breeding knowledge. The article will provide information about the most popular and effective methods of reproduction: how to implement them and what results you can get in the end.

If you are a beginner gardener, then try the simplest method - propagating cherries by cuttings. With the onset of June, begin preparing shoots. The most suitable cuttings will be those that have begun to turn red and harden at the base. Having selected such branches on the mother tree, they must be cut off. The length of the cut shoots should be 30 cm. It is recommended to prune in the morning or evening, preferably in cool weather. Cut branches must be immediately placed in water.

To achieve rapid root emergence, you can use growth regulators. Heteroauxin is usually used. 100 ml of the drug is dissolved with ethyl alcohol and diluted with cold water to obtain a solution in a volume of 1 liter. The cuttings are collected in bunches of 30 pieces, tied and immersed in the prepared solution for 18 hours. In this case, the shoot itself sinks only 1.5 cm and no more.

It is advisable to prepare the soil the day before. In well-dug soil, you need to make beds and fill them with a 10-centimeter layer consisting of peat and sand in equal proportions. A layer of river sand, preferably coarse-grained sand, is poured on top of it. All layers should be leveled using a rake and compacted slightly. Before planting, be sure to thoroughly moisten the soil and fertilize it with mineral fertilizers. Superphosphate is usually used. To prepare it, you need 10 liters of water, in which a teaspoon of fertilizer is diluted. The prepared cuttings are planted vertically in beds. The planting depth is no more than 3 cm, keep a distance of 7 cm between rows.

Depending on whether you used growth stimulants or not, it will depend on what time of day to plant. If growth stimulants were used, then planting is best done in the morning, and if not, then in the evening.

The planted cuttings are covered with film and provided with appropriate care, namely, in the first month they are protected from sunlight and carefully watered using a watering can or sprayer. After about 2 weeks, the cuttings will develop adventitious roots, and after a month they will become difficult to root.

The following varieties reproduce well in this way: Polevka, Turgenevka, Vladimirskaya, Molodezhnaya and Shubinka.

This video will show you how to propagate cherries by cuttings.

Propagation of cherries using the grafting method is very simple and very effective. For it, one- or two-year-old wild seedlings are used, into which more improved, intensive varieties will be grafted, with increased characteristics of fruit quality, speed of ripening and low crown.

Annual shoots with a trunk diameter of at least 5 mm are harvested in the first half of winter. But if you live in the southern regions, this can be done immediately before the vaccination itself, in the spring.

Shoots are cut from mother trees and their sections are placed in water at room temperature for several hours. When the shoot is saturated with moisture, the required number of cuttings are cut from it, each of which should have at least 4 buds. Also, in parallel, a special mixture (anti-transpiration) is prepared from wax or paraffin and the resulting cuttings are treated to prevent drying. If you do not carry out this treatment, then you need to cover the grafted part with a plastic bag and leave it until shoots grow from the buds. The grafting procedure must be carried out before the period of active sap flow begins. The best time is mid-March.

This method is suitable for any cherry varieties, including Sania, Vladimirskaya or Fertile Michurina.

Grafting cherries onto cherries gives good results. This is how excellent varieties Sashenka, Kubanskaya, Chudo-cherry, Nadezhda, Poppy, Yuzhnaya, Dessertnaya Morozova were obtained.

Cherries, like all seeds, can be propagated from seeds. This procedure is carried out in spring or autumn. You can also plant the seed in the summer immediately after separating the seed from the pulp.

When planting in autumn, the seeds, after being washed well and dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.25 g per liter of water), are placed in a humid environment (sawdust, moss) without drying. In October, they are preferably sown in a permanent place of growth in loose, moist soil to a depth of 3-4 cm. The distance between holes is 25-30 cm. Several seeds (4-5 pieces) can be placed in one hole. After overwintering and undergoing stratification, in the spring the seeds germinate and produce young shoots, after which they are thinned out, leaving only the strongest and healthiest.

When planting seeds in spring, the seeds must undergo stratification - the stage of post-harvest ripening. During this period, which lasts 3-4 months, the seeds are stored in a moist substrate (sawdust or sand can be used) at a temperature of 15-20 degrees. Before stratification begins, the seeds are soaked for 4-5 days, changing the water daily. During storage, you must ensure that the substrate does not dry out, and also stir it to allow fresh air to enter. Then the seeds are placed in a basement or refrigerator, where the temperature is 2-6 degrees and stored there until germination. The sprouts are placed in snow or glacier until spring, where they undergo the final stage of ripening. In early spring, the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place in the garden plot.

It should be noted that varietal cherries are propagated only vegetatively (by cuttings or seedlings), since when sowing seeds, such varieties do not transmit traits well to their offspring and the fruits may be small.

Varieties for propagation by stones (seeds): all varieties of felt cherries, Magalebskaya, Vladimirskaya and Lyubskaya, Shubinka, Rastunya, Kostychevka, Raspletka, Late pink, Kostychevka, Polevka, Polzhir, Menzelinskaya.

Cherries have been propagated by root shoots since ancient times - this is the easiest and most affordable way to obtain new trees. This type of propagation is especially relevant for northern regions, where severe frosts can cause cherry trees to freeze.

When reproducing by shoots, you need to be careful - not all young animals fully inherit the characteristics of the mother tree, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of the fruit and a decrease in yield. You should also select strong, healthy offspring; weak ones usually do not take root in a new place after transplantation. Do not take perennial or closely growing plants. In the first case, a weak root system will not allow the tree to grow strong and healthy, in the second, there is a risk of damaging the stems of the mother tree during replanting, which can lead to its death.

The highest quality material for this type of propagation is two-year-old offspring with well-developed branches and root systems, growing at some distance from the mother tree.

The technology of propagation by shoots is quite simple. In the spring, we select samples that are suitable in all respects and, at a distance of 20 cm from the trunk, with a shovel we chop off the root connecting the offspring to the mother tree. It is first necessary to fertilize the mother trees and loosen the soil well under and around them to avoid the growth of weeds. After separation, we leave the young plants for the summer, during which time they will grow a decent root system and in the fall they can be dug up and transplanted to a permanent place in the garden.

The main disadvantage of this type is that many good varieties have a low survival rate after transplantation.

Varieties that give good results when using this method: Vladimirskaya and Lyubskaya, Shubinka, Apukhtinskaya, Rastunya, Shubinka, Korostynskaya, Fertile Michurina.

Before you start choosing cherry propagation, consider the timing of fruiting. Thus, trees grown from seeds begin to bear fruit in the fourth year of life, trees growing from cuttings - in the third, and seedlings obtained by grafting produce berries already in the second year.

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It’s rare that a garden is complete without cherries. And if it is not there, it is not because the owners do not want to raise it. Most likely, the problem is that they simply do not know how to plant cherries correctly. Although there is nothing complicated in such planting, there are nuances, neglect of which leads to a negative result - the cherry “refuses” to grow and bear fruit.

Cherries grow and bear fruit on average up to 15 years. This is the first thing to consider when choosing a place to plant it. Having planted a small seedling close to the wall of a building or to other trees, you will inevitably face a choice in the future: either remove or replant the seedling. Although in fact they are one and the same thing - cherries do not tolerate transplantation well and often die.

The place for the future cherry tree should be sunny and maximally protected from cold winds. Our great-grandfathers often planted cherry trees closer to the fence: the tree has additional protection from the wind, large snowdrifts form near the fences, and deep snow is the best protection for the roots from frost.

When choosing a place to plant cherries, keep in mind that they will not grow on heavy, swampy soil. Light, well-drained and breathable soils with a pH close to neutral are not considered the best option.

The land for planting is prepared in the fall. Preparation consists of enriching the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers. The land is fertilized with manure at the rate of approximately 1.5 buckets per 1 m², as well as phosphorus and potassium fertilizers - 100 grams each. per m².

It is better to refrain from using nitrogen fertilizers at the stage of preparation and planting, otherwise you can strongly oxidize the soil and burn the roots of the planted seedlings. Be sure to determine the acidity of the soil in the fall and, if necessary, carry out deacidification by liming the area.

The main thing to consider when choosing a cherry seedling for your garden is that it should be maximally adapted to your climate.

For regions with cold winters, frost-resistant varieties are suitable:

If frosts are not severe in your area, then it is better to opt for one of the varieties:

If you need to grow cherries on the poor sandy soils of the Urals, then pay attention to the varieties:

Cherry varieties have been bred even for the harsh Siberian climate:

• Altai early;
• Altai large;
• Altai swallow;
• Blizzard;
• Maksimovskaya;
• Shadrinskaya.

Often, wanting to save money, novice gardeners try to get a varietal cherry seedling from a sprouted seed or root shoot. But neither shoots nor seedlings sprouted from a seed guarantee that the fruits on them will be the same as those of the parent forms. And if we are talking about grafted cherries, then their growth is completely sterile. Therefore, it is much preferable to purchase a seedling for planting in specialized nurseries.

Planting can be done with either freshly purchased seedlings or purchased in the fall. In the first case, you will have to choose the best of the worst (in the sense that the best seedlings will be sorted out long before you - in the fall). But he can be planted immediately.

In the second case, you will have a great choice, but the purchased seedling will need to be kept fresh and healthy until spring. This is not difficult to do: having purchased a seedling, dig a shallow 35-50 cm horizontal hole in the area and carefully place your purchase in it, covering the roots with soil. To provide the seedling with maximum protection, it should be laid out with the crown facing south.

Then throw a bunch of small pine or spruce branches on top of it - the more, the better. The spruce branches will protect the buried seedling from frost no worse than straw, but mice or other small rodents will not get under it.

In order for the seedling to be well preserved, it should not be buried in lowlands where melt water will accumulate in the spring. It is better to do this in an area where snow lies the longest in the spring. Otherwise, there are no special requirements for the location; the seedling will still be transplanted in the spring.

When purchasing a seedling, inspect it carefully. For all varieties of tree cherries (we are not talking about felt cherries and other bush subspecies yet), you need to choose a seedling about 1 m high, with a trunk thickness of 2.0-2.5 cm, a well-developed root system and 3-4 skeletal branches 0 in length .5-0.6 m. There should be no growths, swellings, damaged bark, etc. on it.

Cherries are usually planted in spring - from late March to mid-April. Cherry planting times for different climate zones can vary greatly. Therefore, you need to focus not so much on specific dates, but on the general rule for all regions: you need to plant cherries when the soil thaws and warms up to 10-12°, but the buds on the seedlings have not yet woken up.

In the southern regions, you can plant cherries in the fall, but no later than a month before the onset of frost, otherwise the seedling will not have time to take root well and will die. Usually this period falls at the end of September - the first half of October. In regions with harsh winters (Siberia, the Urals), only spring planting is possible.

It is better to prepare a hole for planting in the fall. This is not categorical; if everything is done correctly, then cherries can be planted in freshly prepared holes. It is more convenient to make a hole in the shape of a cube with sides of 60 cm - 60X60X60. If you make it deeper, the development of the root system of the planted tree will slow down, and if you make it less deep, the roots will be subject to all the vagaries of the weather: heat in summer, frost in winter.

The top fertile layer is carefully removed to the side - it will be needed to prepare the soil mixture, and the soil from the bottom of the pit is laid out separately. The soil mixture is prepared from humus and fertile soil mixed in a 1:1 ratio. You can enhance its nutritional properties by adding wood ash to this mixture at the rate of 1.5 cups per bucket of the mixture.

If you plan to plant not one, but several cherry seedlings, prepare a separate hole for each of them. The distance between the pits is at least 3 m, and between the planted rows (if a future cherry orchard is being planted) - 3.5 m.

A strong, long peg is driven into the bottom of the hole or slightly to the side of it - it is needed to secure the planted tree. Then a mound of fertile soil is poured into the center of the hole. A fathom of cherry trees are placed on top of this hill.

You need to add soil little by little, periodically trying on the seedling. Your task is to pour earth into the bottom of the hole so that the root collar (the place where the roots go into the tree trunk) is 3-4 cm above ground level.

Having achieved this, we place the seedling on the top of the mound and carefully straighten the roots. For better survival, the roots can be dipped in mash (a mixture of manure and clay diluted with water). Next, fill the hole to the top with soil. The prepared soil mixture is usually not enough; the top of the hole has to be filled with earth taken from its bottom.

Compact the loosened soil by walking on it a little, but do not come close to the seedling. Compact the edges of the resulting trunk circle more strongly by making a groove 8-10 cm deep around its perimeter.

To complete the planting, tie the cherry tree to a driven peg and pour 3 buckets of water into the groove. When the soil absorbs moisture and settles a little, the tree trunk circle is mulched with sawdust or dry soil. At this stage, a 4-5 cm layer of mulch is sufficient.

Caring for planted cherries is not difficult and does not require any special skills from the amateur gardener. During the first summer after planting, the cherry seedling is watered frequently and abundantly so that its root system remains in moist soil and takes root better in its new location.

In the future, cherries do not need frequent watering - they are distinguished by enviable resistance to drought. But in the summer, during intense heat, she responds gratefully to watering. Watering should not be flooded; your task is to ensure that the soil remains moist at a depth of 40-45 cm.

After watering, as well as after heavy rains, it is imperative to loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle.

The cherry tree wakes up early and begins to develop. To protect the tree from spring frosts, in winter a pile of snow is raked onto the tree trunk. In the spring, the snowdrift is covered with a layer of straw - and it will melt slowly, delaying the cherry growing season for some time, and fertilize the tree trunk circle after the snow has completely melted.

Cherries are fertilized twice during the growing season. The first is carried out immediately after the end of flowering, the second - 2 weeks after the first. It is better to feed with a solution of mullein with the addition of wood ash or mineral fertilizers. In the fall, when deep digging the tree trunk circle, you can add compost or rotted manure into it.

Cherries are naturally endowed with the ability to form a large amount of shoots. If you do not trim it and form a crown, then after 2-3 years it will become so thick that you will not be able to harvest. And the harvest itself in such a dense crown will be meager.

Cherry trees are pruned in early spring, before the buds swell. The crown begins to be formed immediately after planting, shortening the planted seedling to 60-65 cm and cutting off the tops of the side branches. If the seedling has branches growing below 40 cm from the ground, they must be completely removed. The next year, the grown branches are cut to 1/3 of their length.

In the future, the formation of the crown will consist of sanitary pruning and removal of branches growing inside the crown. Once every 5-6 years, rejuvenating pruning is carried out, removing most of the old shoots to give room for the growth and development of young ones.

In order for the cherry to grow and develop well, it is necessary to completely and timely remove its root shoots. The only exception to this rule can be made if you plan to use the root shoot as a rootstock for wood chips.

By following these simple rules for caring for a young tree, you will be able to appreciate the taste of its berries within 2-3 years. The cherry tree will fully thank you for all your work and worries no earlier than 5-6 years after planting. Of course, you have to wait a long time. But with proper care, gratitude is always rich and tasty.

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Cherry grows in almost all regions of Russia. It is an excellent honey plant and is not capricious. Can grow even in unfavorable conditions. It tolerates lace shadow quite well. But the best place for growth will be sunny, windless areas, for example, along fences. The roots of the plant are quite superficial. Therefore, during drought, cherries require watering, unless they are grafted onto seedlings of Mogaleb cherries, which grow in the steppes and are therefore drought-resistant. In this case, groundwater should not be closer than 1.5-2 meters from the surface. If the plant is damaged by frost, it will quickly recover.

The landing site has been selected. Let's go buy seedlings. In the middle zone, it is better to plant in the spring in mid-April, since poorly rooted plants may die during autumn planting. But in the south, the best time will be mid-October. In the spring, lack of moisture will have a negative impact.

Choose zoned varieties. This will make it easier to grow and care for cherries. At the same time, pay attention to the area that is required for full fruiting. If you have a small plot, then choose semi-dwarf varieties (Turgenevka, Molodezhnaya, Zagoryevskaya, Polevka, Chernookaya). The distance between such bushes can be no more than 2.5 meters. Varieties with a wide crown (Shubinnka, Yubileynaya or the famous Vladimirskaya), of course, are more productive. But the distance between them must be at least 3.5 meters. Otherwise, they will get sick and be affected by pests. The roots of the seedling must be well developed.

When planting in the spring, it is better to mark the holes in the fall. Cherries love fertile and light soils. If your garden is located on clay, add peat and sand to the planting hole. Be sure to make a drainage layer 7-10 cm thick. Also, regardless of the soil, add 40 g of potassium fertilizer and 50 g of phosphorus fertilizer to the planting hole. Mix them well with the soil.

Pour 10 cm of fertile soil over the drainage, then form a mound on which we spread the roots of the seedling. Having filled the planting hole 2/3 with soil, pour out a bucket of water, add soil to the edge of the hole and compact it. The grafting site for grafted seedlings or the root collar for self-rooted ones must be above the soil level. Pour another bucket of water and mulch the soil.

Until the cherry tree begins to bear fruit, there is no need to fertilize it. She will have enough nutrition provided during landing. Just loosen to a depth of no more than 10 cm (don’t forget about the close location of the roots!), remove the weeds and water in case of drought.

When the bush or tree begins to bear fruit, we feed the plant annually with full mineral fertilizer. We add 60 g of nitroammophoska per tree. We do this when the cherry has buds. If the soils are very poor, then after two weeks we add 40 grams of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and a couple of glasses of ash. Once every 4-5 years, adding humus or ready-made compost will have a beneficial effect.

In winter, make sure that the layer of snow around the tree does not exceed 1 meter.

In the spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed, the plants are pruned. First of all, broken and diseased shoots are removed. When the crown thickens, it is discharged. Cover very large cuts with varnish and oil paint. Otherwise, this may lead to drying out and death of the plant. During the first five years, the tree grows rapidly. In this regard, thin out the crown annually.

All shoots located below 60-80 cm are removed from a one-year-old seedling. This is how we will form a trunk. Above we leave 4-5 well-developed branches, which will later become skeletal. In the second year, step back 80 cm from the upper skeletal branch and cut off the central conductor. This will ensure that the tree stops growing in height, which is more convenient when harvesting.

Be sure to remove root growth. It is often a breeding ground for pests and impairs the nutrition of the main tree. It must be removed along with the roots. If the shoots are simply mowed or cut at soil level, then they only become denser.

Cherries bear fruit well for 10-15 years. Then it is better to replace it with new plants.

As you can see, growing and caring for cherries is not particularly difficult. A little effort, and the tree will delight you with its harvests for many years.

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If you plan to plant cherries on your garden plot, then first of all you need to decide on the choice of specific varieties and select the right cherry seedlings. The success of growing such fruit crops and their productivity indicators subsequently depend on how correctly the choice of planting material is made. We will tell you in this article exactly how to choose a cherry seedling and how to properly care for a young tree after planting.

Many gardeners purchase planting material on a residual basis, choosing it cheaper at regular garden markets. This can subsequently lead to certain problems with growing cherries and other fruit trees. The fact is that cherries produce numerous basal shoots that grow quickly, but bear fruit poorly. Often at gardening markets, many unscrupulous sellers offer such root shoots to buyers under the guise of varietal seedlings. All this subsequently leads to poor fruiting of grown trees; which could have been avoided by purchasing seedlings from specialized nurseries.

High-quality cherry seedlings must be grafted, which will guarantee subsequent excellent growth and fruiting of the trees. Felt cherry is very popular today. It is a small shrub that allows you to get an excellent harvest. In specialized nurseries you can find various varietal seedlings of felt cherry, which will allow you to grow a magnificent harvest on your site.

We can recommend that you give preference to cherry seedlings with a closed root system. In such young trees, the roots are located along with a lump of earth. When planting in the garden, the roots are practically not injured. This allows you to increase the survival rate of young trees in a new location. In the future, cherries with a closed root system will quickly begin to grow and bear fruit well, and the gardener will be able to grow an excellent garden.

It is known that annual cherry seedlings take root best, so you should pay attention to such trees when purchasing. The height of annual cherry seedlings usually does not exceed one meter. But two- to three-year-old cherry seedlings, although they are tall and have a powerful root system, are sick for a long time when transplanted and often simply die. And the reason for this is (usually) damage to the root system in the new location. When choosing cherry seedlings, pay attention to the place of budding. If you have such a grafting, you can be completely confident in the quality of the planted trees.

You should pay attention to the presence and condition of shoots. A strong annual cherry should have at least 8 shoots, the length of which reaches 20 centimeters. Pay attention to the root system. Healthy and strong roots should be about 25 centimeters long (if you purchase seedlings with an open root system). Subsequently, based on the size of the root system, you will need to dig a hole that corresponds to the dimensions of a particular seedling.

The presence of growths on the roots is completely excluded, and the root system itself should be slightly moist. Inspect the above-ground part for broken or damaged shoots. Also inspect the condition of the root collar, which should have a healthy appearance, without signs of decay. Following the recommendations described above will allow you to select high-quality seedlings that will easily take root in a new place.

The best time to plant cherries in central Russia is early spring. It is best to plant cherry seedlings in the spring before the buds swell. But if you plant trees in late spring, this significantly worsens the survival rate of the trees. It is not recommended to plant cherries in the fall, as the first cold weather can freeze young trees and they will quickly die.

The technology for planting cherry seedlings is standard. A few weeks before planting, you should dig a hole corresponding to the size of the seedlings used. Fertile soil is prepared from the top turf from the pit, which is mixed with humus, as well as 50 grams of urea and 200 grams of wood ash. The tree is carefully covered with prepared fertile soil without damaging the roots; tied to a peg and watered generously. Immediately after planting the seedling, you need to mulch the soil with sawdust or humus. When using high-quality planting material and properly planted, within a few months the young tree will put out its first leaves and actively begin to grow.

The first month after planting, seedlings may be sick for a long time and be stressed after transplantation. Therefore, you should not panic for the first one and a half to two months, even if the planted cherry seedlings do not grow and show no signs of life.

You should only lightly water the young tree from time to time, and be sure to insulate it by placing a layer of mulch on the ground.

But what to do if more than 2 months have passed since planting, and there are no signs of rooting of the young tree, it does not grow and leaves do not appear? It is recommended to water the tree with the agrochemical Zircon; it has a positive effect on the condition of the root system. To prepare a nutrient solution, dilute about 1 gram of Zircon acid in 5 liters of water. Several such waterings can be performed, which is enough to activate root formation and rooting of seedlings.

Problems with the growth of cherry seedlings can occur due to:

• incorrect choice of landing site,
• use of low-quality planting material,
• and lack of care for seedlings.

Care consists of regular watering of young trees and high-quality insulation. The first watering is carried out immediately when planting seedlings. Subsequently, the gardener needs to monitor soil moisture levels. If necessary, lightly moisten the soil, and use the sprinkling method, which will prevent erosion of the soil and erosion of the root collar. In general, caring for young cherry seedlings does not present any difficulty. Trees must be insulated by mulching the soil, which will protect the root system from late frosts.

There are several common methods for propagating cherries. You can plant this crop from a seed, use root shoots, or get cuttings yourself.

Note that growing cherry seedlings from pits is a long and labor-intensive process. Therefore, this method of reproduction is not popular.

Basal shoots are, in fact, the simplest method of propagation, however, as mentioned above, although such shoots grow quickly, they bear fruit poorly.
Therefore, we can recommend that you use the cutting propagation method, and you can prepare such cuttings yourself.

In mid-summer, it is necessary to cut off the young cherry shoots that appeared this year. We cut off such branches with a length of about 30 centimeters and immediately place them in water. It is best to add growth stimulants to the water (we can recommend Heteroauxin). Treatment with growth stimulants lasts about a day.

After which the shoots are planted in previously prepared soil in open ground. Fertile soil is prepared from a mixture of equal parts sand and peat. Before planting, it is recommended to add mineral fertilizers to the soil, of which we recommend superphosphate. You will need to dilute a teaspoon of superphosphate in 10 liters of water and water each planted cutting.

The planted cuttings are covered with film and regularly watered using a sprayer or watering can. In two weeks, the first roots will appear on the cherry cuttings, and after a few months the seedlings will begin to grow. Despite the apparent difficulty of obtaining cuttings on your own, every gardener can handle this work.

Choosing high-quality cherry cuttings will allow the gardener to grow an excellent harvest on his plot. Remember that it is best to plant in the spring; by properly preparing the soil and insulating the trees by mulching the tree trunk soil. Caring for cherries is not difficult, so everyone, even a novice gardener, can cope with such work and get an excellent harvest on their plot.

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Recently, there have been fewer cherries in Ural orchards. And the main reason here is that its varieties now grown in our area are severely affected by a very dangerous fungal disease, coccomycosis. When infected with coccomycosis, they produce a very small, low-quality harvest or do not produce it at all. In addition, cherry plants weakened by this disease are severely damaged by frost even in normal winters and quickly fall out. To combat this disease, plants are treated with fungicide solutions, which is not always effective and is very labor-intensive. Therefore, it is not always used by gardeners.

When cherry plants quickly die when they are infected with coccomycosis, gardeners are often forced to buy new seedlings for replacement. However, they do not always buy varietal seedlings grown in reputable nurseries. Often in such cases, seedlings are purchased from private traders or even from random people. And all this leads to the clogging of gardens with random plants that are poorly winter-hardy, low-yielding, self-sterile, and have low-quality fruits. The method of obtaining cherry seedlings by growing its shoots is in this case the main source of supply of falsified and low-quality cherry seedlings to the market. Therefore, gardeners should definitely beware of buying such seedlings.

But gardeners may not resort to buying new cherry seedlings if only the above-ground part of the plant dies, since shoot growth usually always begins from the roots of this plant. And all cherry seedlings purchased from reputable large nurseries are grown only from green cuttings. Therefore, the root growth of such plants is always a varietal crop, and seedlings grown from it can successfully replace fallen plants.

In amateur gardens of the Urals and Siberia, cherries are propagated mainly by shoots (scions) or root cuttings. The advantage of these methods is the ability to quickly restore trees after winter freezing.

Propagation by shoots is considered one of the simplest methods in amateur gardening, although there is a high probability of contamination of the site with impurities of low-value forms.

Therefore, only varietal or selected own-rooted plants are suitable for this method, in which cherries of the same variety as the mother plants will grow from the shoots.

It should be taken into account that in self-rooted plantings there are often small-fruited, low-yielding forms that produce a lot of shoots. Such forms are used only as rootstocks.

The advantages of coppice cherries include higher winter hardiness. Even if after a harsh winter the entire above-ground part of the plant is severely damaged or dies, the plant can easily be restored from the shoots that will certainly appear.

But coppice plants also have serious disadvantages. This is a later entry into fruiting compared to grafted seedlings, clogging of row spacing with shoots, of which a lot is formed, etc. As a rule, they usually begin to bear fruit in the fourth year, and produce a noticeable harvest from the age of five.

For propagation by shoots, plants with their own roots are selected so that there is not a large amount of shoots around them. The above-ground parts of the offspring should be developed and strong, 1–2 years old.

Perennial large offspring should not be taken for planting, because they usually have a very weak root system and feed mainly on the mother plant.

It is also not recommended to dig up shoots located closer than 1 meter to the mother plant, since this shoot has practically no roots, but also feeds on the mother plant, and besides, you can accidentally damage the root system of an adult plant.

The best root suckers are those plants that grow in a sufficiently lit place, and not in the shade of the mother plant.

It is better to harvest shoots in the following way. In early spring, before the buds open, or in early October in cloudy weather, at some distance from the shoots, cut the root coming from the mother plant, leave the plant in place, without digging it up, to form its own roots. The aerial part of the offspring is shortened by one third. Then it needs to be watered and fertilized; it is advisable to do the second feeding at the end of June.

If there are no fibrous roots on the skeletal root, then it is necessary to stimulate their rapid formation. To do this, you need to cut the skeletal root at a distance of 15–20 cm from the place where the shoot joins it. But this must be done from the side more distant from the mother tree trunk. The shoots should be left in this form until the fall of next year.

During the growing season, a root lobe forms at the site of root rupture. In the fall, you need to cut the skeletal root on the other side of the coppice plant.

After a year, young shoots are dug up. If the plant has good roots, then it is planted in a permanent place, deepened by 7–8 cm. The above-ground part is cut off by a third or half its length in early spring to bring it into line with the root system. And if the roots of a young plant are weak, then it is planted on a ridge for growing.

In addition to this method of obtaining own-rooted plants, propagation of selected high-quality, productive cherry varieties by root cuttings is also used.

To do this, in early spring, roots are dug up at a distance of 1–1.5 meters from the trunk and sections of 10–15 cm in length are cut from a part of the root 0.4–1.5 cm thick. They are planted on ridges or in furrows and covered with a film cover,

The main condition in the first month after planting is to prevent the slightest drying of the soil, otherwise the cuttings will not germinate.

If several buds sprout on a cutting, the strongest shoot is left, the rest are removed. During the growing season (end of June - July), fertilize 2-3 times with urea or slurry (1:7).

It is better to dig up plants in the spring of next year, selecting the strongest of them. The rest are grown for another season.

If cuttings are prepared in the fall, then until spring planting they are stored in the basement in damp sand at a temperature of 0–2°C.

In order for young self-rooted plants to bear fruit for a long time, it is necessary to constantly engage in their formation.

To do this, from the suckers that will soon grow in young plants, those that are closer to the trunk (3–4) are left; they will serve as a replacement for fruit-bearing and gradually aging plants; the remaining suckers are cut out annually at the base of the soil.

If we periodically replenish the loss of depleted soil and fight pests and diseases, then an excellent harvest from such plants can be obtained for many, many years.

As a result of this formation, the coppice cherry gradually turns into a bush with shoots of different ages coming from the ground, which can later be easily turned into independent plants.

When the old part of the bush begins to bear fruit poorly, the mother plant must be cut out close to the soil surface. By this time, the young “change” should be prepared in the form of the remaining 3–4 strongest root shoots, which are formed and pruned in the manner described.

If we periodically replenish the loss of depleted soil and fight pests and diseases, then an excellent harvest from such plants can be obtained for many, many years.

Excessive growth on plants must be mercilessly removed to the very base. To do this, you need to rake away the soil and cut the growth into a ring to the base of the trunk or skeletal root. If you leave at least a small stump, even more powerful growth will develop.

V. G. Shafransky

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Propagation of cherries - both regular and felt - in a suburban area is possible in different ways. But most often this crop is bred from green cuttings. Sometimes seeds are also used for this purpose.

Cherry cuttings taken from the top of annual green shoots have the best survival rates. They should be cut in early June - during the period of active growth. It’s easy to check whether a shoot is suitable for cutting planting material. If the selected shoot does not break when twisted onto your finger, you can safely cut the stem from it. The optimal length of a branch intended for rooting is 5-7 cm.

There should be two buds on the cutting. Of course, the cut branch must be healthy and without damage. After pruning, approximately 1.5 cm of cutting length should remain under the lower bud. The leaves should be shortened by half. The top of the branch is cut directly above the bud.

Propagating cherries with pits is generally a simple procedure. In this case, planting material is taken from the best fruits.

Cut cherry branches should not be dried. Otherwise, they will not take root well in the future. Propagation of cherries by cuttings in the summer requires only preliminary soaking of the latter in a fresh solution of indolylbutyric acid (50 g/l for 24 hours). The planting material should be immersed into it approximately 2-2.5 cm. The solution should be poured into a glass or porcelain bowl. Of course, it shouldn't be too cold. It is better to dilute the acid in settled water at room temperature.

It is best to plant branches treated in this way in small greenhouses made of plastic film. With this method of rooting, they need to be periodically watered and ventilated. The cuttings should be planted to a depth of approximately 2.5 cm. The soil itself should be very warm (25-30 g).

Sometimes cuttings are rooted using a slightly different technology. In this case, transparent plastic bags are used. A pre-prepared substrate is poured into them. Two cuttings are planted in each bag. Air is then blown into the bag with your mouth and tied.

Cherry cuttings usually take root within two weeks. At this time, the film should be removed from the greenhouse. After 14 days, planting material placed in bags begins to gradually become accustomed to fresh air, opening it first for half an hour a day, and then for a longer time.

Propagation of felt cherries by cuttings is carried out using the same technology as usual. This variety can also be rooted in a greenhouse or bag. The survival rate of green cherry cuttings of all varieties is quite good. Usually 50-80% of the planting material takes root.

Of course, propagation of cherries will be more successful when cuttings are planted not just in turf soil, but in a special substrate. A mixture of garden soil and humus in a 1:1 ratio is very good for rooting cut branches. You can also use peat with perlite or expanded clay.

It is worth pouring a mixture of a slightly different composition into the bags. It is usually prepared from garden soil and sand in a 1:1 ratio. This mixture is poured into each bag in a layer of 9 cm. It is advisable to add another 2 cm of ordinary washed sand on top.

They continue the procedure of propagating cherries using green cuttings and transferring the planting material to a permanent place. Trees rooted in greenhouses are usually left to grow in the beds for a year or two. In any case, before transplanting, their root system must reach a length of at least 15 cm, the root collar must have a diameter of at least 4 mm, the height must be 80-100 cm, and the thickness of the stem must be 1-1.2 cm. You can transfer the grown seedlings to a permanent place as follows: in autumn as well as in spring. They should be kept moist until planting.

Cuttings rooted in bags are transferred to the beds for growing approximately 3 weeks after planting. The next year (or two) they are planted.

You can place grown trees almost anywhere. However, some requirements when selecting a planting site on the site should still be observed:

1. The groundwater level in the place where cherries are grown should not be less than 2.5 m.
2. This crop thrives best on sandy or loamy podzol soils with good drainage.

This crop should not be planted on peaty, heavily swampy or gravelly soils. If the groundwater in the area comes too close to the surface, the cherry tree should be planted on a pre-filled mound.

Propagation of cherries by cuttings has one more feature. When choosing a place for a plant, it is worth considering such a factor as the compatibility of different garden crops. This plant feels best next to apple and pear trees. Cherries do not tolerate being in proximity to cherry plums, plums and apricots very well.

From greenhouses and beds, grown cherries are transferred to pre-dug holes with a diameter of 60 and a depth of 80 cm. The soil taken from them is mixed with two buckets of manure, as well as a small amount of sand and peat. A kilogram of wood ash, 120 g of potassium sulfate and 300 g of superphosphate are added to the resulting substrate.

The soil mixture prepared in this way is poured into the hole in a mound. The roots of the seedling are first kept in a manure-clay mixture.

Propagation of cherries is also possible using this planting material. But it is used quite rarely. The fact is that cherries grown from seeds do not retain their varietal qualities. Such plants usually do not tolerate cold very well and are not very productive. However, they are very suitable as rootstocks. Most often, this growing method is used for felt cherries. Some summer residents consider it even more preferable for this variety. If the proper technology is followed, propagation of felt cherries using pits can be very successful indeed.

When using this method of propagation, planting material should be taken from local trees. It is best to plant seeds in the ground in the fall. Their germination rate, unfortunately, is not one hundred percent, and therefore it costs more to take them from the fruits. Planting material of this variety should be placed in the garden bed in increments of approximately 25 cm.

It is allowed to use this breeding technology in the spring. However, in this case, successful propagation of felt cherries by pitting is possible only with properly carried out stratification. This procedure is performed as follows:

1. Planting material is poured into a jar, pre-mixed with peat and moss.
2. The container is covered with a plastic lid with holes made in it and placed in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks.

Propagation of cherries using pits is also possible using another technology. You don’t have to store such planting material in winter, but plant it in pots. In the spring, young seedlings will simply need to be transferred to the garden bed.

In this case, you should select the seeds as carefully as possible. Felt cherry, the propagation of which is an absolutely simple procedure, sometimes has such a disadvantage as sagging branches. Of course, it is better not to take seeds from fruits of trees with such a defect. Also, you should not use planting material from trees that have too large branches.

The best solution would be to take berry seeds from compact plants with dark green leaves and strong wood. Of course, when selecting planting material, among other things, you should pay attention to the yield of the tree, the taste characteristics of its fruits, the speed of their ripening, etc. From good seeds, of course, a much higher quality felt cherry will subsequently grow. The propagation of this crop, in comparison with conventional varieties, has one more feature. Its seeds are planted to a depth of no more than 2 cm. For ordinary cherries, this figure is 3 cm. In both cases, 25-30 cm of free space are left between the rows.

Reproduction of varietal cherries, as you can see, is not a difficult matter. However, rooting the cuttings and planting them correctly in a permanent place is, of course, only half the battle. To get good harvests, trees should be properly cared for.

Watering cherries should be done four times a season - during the period of swelling of the buds, after flowering, some time after the excess ovary sheds and during the period of fruit growth. In wet years, you can moisten the soil under the trees less often. Due to overwatering, the trunk and branches of this crop may begin to crack.

Of course, cherries should be fed annually. Manure, compost and ash are commonly used as fertilizer. This garden crop also responds very well to liming. It is advisable to carry out this procedure once every 5-6 years. Depending on the pH level of the soil, 200-300 g of slaked lime, chalk or dolomite flour should be added under the trees.

Approximately the same technology is used to care for such a variety as felt cherry. Its propagation is a simple procedure even for an inexperienced summer resident. At the same time, many believe that caring for felt cherries is even easier than conventional varieties. For example, such trees do not even need to be fed during the season. In order for the felt cherry to receive the amount of nutrients it needs, its tree trunk circle should simply be mulched with manure.

This procedure is usually performed once a year - in the spring. There are no special pruning rules. Most often, the crown is simply thinned out slightly and all dried, frozen and improperly growing shoots are removed. Skeletal branches are usually not touched when pruning. Sometimes gardeners practice propagation of cherries by shoots. This, by the way, is also a very simple method. In this case, the shoots are simply dug out along with a piece of root and transferred to the desired location. If the growth is not used for growing cherries on the site, it, of course, should be removed periodically. Moreover, it is worth doing this more often, since cherries grow very quickly and can easily choke out the plantings of other crops.

Propagation of felt cherries by cuttings, just like ordinary ones, as you can see, is a relatively simple procedure. The main thing is to prepare good soil for the cut branches and create a suitable microclimate for them. It is quite easy to propagate this crop using seeds. When planting in spring, in this case it is important to perform stratification correctly. The transfer of seedlings obtained using both of these technologies to the ground is carried out in a standard way.

A good garden will delight its owner for many years.

But to get such a treasure, you first need to work hard.

At any stage you can make a mistake, which will bring all efforts to naught.

The “wrong” seedling may simply not take root. Taking an apple tree seedling yourself without a clear understanding of how to choose an apple tree seedling is too risky.

In this article we will tell you how to avoid these mistakes and successfully grow an apple tree that will delight you for many years.

This first step should not be underestimated. It is the choice of seedling that largely determines whether you will be able to grow a healthy tree.

Take this issue seriously:

• Find out which apple tree varieties suitable for your region. This is very important, because a young tree, unadapted to such a climate, can die long before it begins to bear fruit.
• It is best to contact your local gardening organization or nursery with this question. Their addresses can be found on the Internet.
• Pay attention to customer reviews. Choose a company responsibly.
• The most difficult stage of selection is practical. It all depends on knowledge and attentiveness.

First of all, everything seedlings can be divided into three groups depending on the level of the rootstock, i.e. the stem and root system. When choosing one type or another, you need to take into account the characteristics of the site.

There are these types:

IMPORTANT! If the seedlings have thorns, do not buy it. Most likely they are passing off a wild apple tree as a varietal apple tree.

Contact of the root system with groundwater is extremely undesirable. Such an apple tree will be weak and sickly, its harvest will be extremely meager. When purchasing a seedling, do not forget about the importance of this factor.

The ideal age of a seedling is 1–2 years. The youth of a tree is a guarantee that it will take root better in a new place.

How visually determine the age of the seedling? An annual plant should not have developed branches; a two-year-old plant can have 2-3 additional branches.

Inspect the root system. It must not be damaged. Healthy roots a little damp, but by no means rotten; they should be elastic, not brittle.

The condition of the cortex is also of great importance. Gently pick off the bark with your fingernail - the stem should be green.

Better do not buy trees that have leaves. They most likely will not take root.

How much do apple tree seedlings cost?

Saplings with an open root system are cheaper than those sold in a container. The cost of an apple tree seedling depends on the variety and quality of the tree, as well as specifically on the selling company. On average, focus on a price of about 300 rubles, although some nurseries may ask for 800 rubles.

Watch the training video on how to choose the right apple tree seedling:

How are apple tree seedlings grown?

Daring gardeners can try grow a seedling yourself. This is not so difficult, especially if you have at least basic knowledge of a school biology course. Let's look at the main methods.

Growing apple tree seedlings from seeds

Method one - . Even small children wonder whether an apple tree will grow from an accidentally dropped seed.

In reality, everything is not so simple. There have been cases where a beautiful tree with delicious fruits grew from a seed, but there is a possibility that a grown apple tree will not lose its “maternal” wild properties and all your efforts will be in vain.

But if difficulties and possible risks do not frighten you, follow our advice:

1. Rinse mature brown seeds in running water to remove the substance that prevents them from germinating. The best thing place the seeds in water for 3 days.
2. Then place the seeds in the refrigerator (this process is called stratification). To do this, you need to prepare a bowl filled with slightly damp sand. The seeds should stay in the refrigerator for about two months. It is best to start stratification in early January..
3. The seeds should germinate in the refrigerator. They need to be planted in specially prepared boxes (drainage should be poured at the bottom and a nutrient mixture on top). The boxes should be placed on a well-lit windowsill.
4. It's easy to recognize a wild one still in the early stages: its leaves are bright green, and the shoots already have short spines. It's better not to waste your time on them. Or use the wildflower as a rootstock, to which the desired variety can be grafted.

From a cutting

Apple trees can also be propagated by cuttings.

How to make a seedling from an apple tree branch has been known for a long time. In order to grow a tree in this way, you need prepare the rootstock– choose a tree grown from a seed or (which is much better) a wild one.

You need to graft a cutting from the tree you want to the roots of such a tree. It is very important to correctly combine the rootstock and cuttings.

For a wild dwarf tree, a cutting of a columnar apple tree is better suited, while an apple tree grown from a seed will take well to a cutting of an ordinary tall tree.

The stalk must be no older than one year. We will tell you in detail how to make a seedling from an apple tree below.

How to grow apple tree seedlings from a branch

Another way is bury a branch in the ground.

In autumn, the tree is planted at an angle so that the young shoots touch the ground. In spring, the branches are attached to the bud with staples. During the summer they need to be earthed up, and in the fall ready-made seedlings are obtained.

Air layering or how to get seedlings from an old apple tree

It is more difficult to graft a seedling from a branch, so it is often more advisable to use the air layering method.

For the twig to begin to take root, you need to surround it with moist soil. To begin, select a twig that will become a seedling - healthy, without branches, and as thick as a regular pencil.

When the snow melts, this branch needs put on a polyethylene sleeve. It is advisable to attach it with electrical tape. It will remain on the apple tree until steadily warm weather arrives. Then the sleeve is removed.

Need to find the boundary between an adult branch and new growth– from this point about 10 cm is retreated and a circular incision of about 1 cm is made, small incisions are also made to the left and right of it. All buds above the incisions must be removed.

Then a sleeve with a container is put on the branch. In the first three days, place in a container (you can use a cut plastic bottle) root growth stimulating liquid, then specially prepared soil, which must be kept moist at all times.

You can try any of these methods yourself at home. It is advisable to additionally consult with competent specialists.

Watch a detailed video on how to get a seedling from an apple tree using the air layering method:

You can take a seedling from an apple tree yourself. You don’t have to be an experienced gardener to do this.

If you want to receive varietal apple tree, then you can use the parent shoot, which sometimes just needs to be dug in correctly.

The procedure is carried out in the spring. You can use young shoots no more than 1 year old.

They are placed in a hole about 10 cm deep. The branch is attached to a peg. Thus, a shoot of 30–40 cm should remain above the ground. It also needs to rid the nearest area of ​​weeds.

To be sure, root several branches in this way. In a year, some of them will take root. In the fall, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting.

IMPORTANT! Remember that large-fruited apple trees root worse in this way than other varieties.

Pruning an apple tree seedling

Do not forget that this is a rather complex process that must be carried out strictly according to agrotechnical instructions.

The seedling needs to be pruned when it is dormant.

In warm climates, the ideal time would be autumn-winter, in moderate climates - the end of winter. Anyway, Pruning cannot be carried out at temperatures below -10°C.

The first pruning takes place in the first year after planting. Pruning at such an early age will ensure the establishment of future skeletal branches.

One-year-old seedling it is necessary to remove side shoots located up to 70 cm from the ground level. Above this point, only those branches that form an acute angle with the trunk are removed. If the angle formed by the branch with the trunk is close to 90°, the branch is cut to the fifth bud.

Two-year-old seedling looks almost like a mature tree. How to prune such apple tree seedlings? In this case, the following goal is pursued - to leave from 3 to 5 of the strongest shoots, forming a wide angle with the trunk.

In the future they will become the main branches of the tree. It is necessary to form and center conductor. It is best to do this from the most developed bud, which is located about 3 buds higher than the others. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones. So wood.

Next 3–5 years It is better not to touch the apple tree, let it develop on its own.

How to distinguish a pear seedling from an apple tree?

It is sometimes difficult even for experienced gardeners to distinguish different types of trees at such a young age.

This is almost impossible before the leaves appear.– the seller at the market could experiment with vaccinations. Let us remind you general rules, which will allow you not to become a victim of deception and determine how to choose an apple tree:

1. Annual apple trees have dark red-brown shoots, while pears have yellowish-green shoots.
2. The shoots of apple trees have slight pubescence; pears usually do not have this feature.
3. The shoots of pears have more pronounced geniculation.
4. The buds of apple trees are wide and large. They fit tightly to the shoot. Pear buds are pointed and small, and do not fit tightly to the shoot.
5. The buds of apple trees swell and bloom later than those of pear trees.
6. The root system of apple trees is more branched, while that of pears is stem-like.

There is no need to know about the characteristics of pear and apple tree leaves when purchasing a seedling. If the seedling already has leaves, you should not buy it. It is unlikely to take root successfully, and your efforts will be in vain.

How to grow an apple tree from a seedling?

First to any gardener you need to choose the time to plant the apple tree.

This could be spring or autumn, depending on the specific circumstances and climatic conditions of your region.

In any case, tree care begins in the spring.

Before planting you need to prepare the soil. This means that the soil needs to be loosened well, rid of weeds, fertilized (depending on the time of year) and dug up again.

The planting hole will be a house for the seedling, it will reliably nourish it.

Choose your location responsibly. This should be a well-lit place, preferably protected from the wind.

IMPORTANT! Preparation of the planting pit should begin 2 months before the actual planting.

The seedling is still too vulnerable. Our task is to protect it from negative weather conditions. The tree needs to be secured to a stake. It will be possible to remove it 2 years after planting. This must be done with extreme caution so as not to damage the root system.

In the first week after planting, regular watering is very important, which will help not only saturate the tree with nutrients, but also compact the soil. Gradually watering intervals needs to be reduced, but in hot weather it is impossible to spare water for a young tree.

A near-trunk area is a must mulch. To do this, use compost, chicken manure, vermicompost and rotted manure; put a small layer of straw on top of this layer.

Watch the video on how to mulch trees:

Necessarily One-year and two-year apple trees need to be pruned to form its skeletal branches.

In summer, all care consists of regular watering and protecting the tree from pests. To avoid using chemicals, try attract birds to the garden.

It's easy to do - Arrange feeders on tree branches. This will let the birds know that there is a tasty treat waiting for them in your garden.

If pests appear, you can collect them by hand from a young tree. In hot weather, do not water the tree during the day to avoid burns.

To allow air to flow to the root system, make punctures 30 cm deep at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk.

• A young apple tree needs to be hilled to a height of 10–20 cm;
• The area near the trunk must be mulched with humus or peat;
• You can apply nitrogen or potassium fertilizers. The lack of these substances will affect the quality of future fruits, so it is best to use complex fertilizers;
• The trunk of the apple tree must be whitened with a chalk solution;
• To avoid breaking a weak young tree, it can be pre-cut.

An apple tree seedling is drying up, how to save it?

Before you can solve a problem, you need to understand it reason, due to which the apple tree may begin to dry out. Then you can understand how to save a dried apple tree seedling.

Growing too much can prevent a seedling from developing. close trees or bushes. In this case, you can transplant the tree to the required distance.

The problem can also be caused by groundwater lying too close. Excess water simply displaces excess air from the soil, which is so necessary for the young root system. The problem can also be solved by replanting or regularly loosening the soil.

If groundwater is disturbing more than just one apple tree, you can dig drainage ditches which will help get rid of excess water.

IMPORTANT! The key to successful apple tree growth is air access to the root system, so loosen the soil regularly. Do not plant an apple tree in a sandy or clay bud.

Gardening is not only difficult, but also very interesting. To grow a good apple tree from a seedling, you need to show both intelligence and care.

• Remember the most important stage is the choice of seedling.
• It is better to buy them from professional breeders. In a spontaneous market, you can unknowingly purchase another tree (an apple tree can easily be confused with a pear tree before the leaves appear).
• In the first year, do not overuse fertilizers. The tree only needs watering and mulching.
• Do not forget to rid the young apple tree of weeds. In the autumn period you can add.
• A very important procedure is tree pruning. Remember to do this to form the “skeleton” of the apple tree.
• Pests can negatively affect the development of an apple tree. However, try not to poison them with chemicals in the first years. Attract to this matter of birds.

• Be responsible where you plant. Groundwater lying too close and trees and shrubs growing nearby can destroy an apple tree.
• Provide sufficient air access to the root system. She really needs him.

A responsible approach to business will ensure your success.

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