Gable roof with different wall heights. Types of roofs by design (photo). Types of gable roofs. Types of roofs of private houses with an attic. Broken gable or mansard roof

The roof is one of the main elements of the house, along with the walls and foundation. Without its correct arrangement, the house will not be strong enough and comfortable to live in. The result of a bad roof will be dampness, wet walls, all kinds of diseases and additional heating costs.

The preferred type of roof depends on the climate of the area and prevailing weather conditions. The most common in our conditions are gable ones, which are quite simple to construct and maintain, and reduce the load from snow or other heavenly moisture. Aesthetics play an important role in choosing them.

Types of gable roofs

A gable roof is a fairly simple structure, consisting of two slopes connected to each other at an angle. They form something like a triangle. But despite the simplicity of this figure, triangles are different. Gable roofs also differ from each other.

The main difference between their designs is the angle of inclination. Depending on the type of building and other necessary conditions, it may vary. In addition, the angles at which the slopes are installed may differ from each other. As a result, one of the following types is built:

1. Simple symmetrical;
2. Simple asymmetrical;
3. Broken (the break can be either internal or external).

Each type has its own positive and negative sides, forcing you to choose one or the other builder, depending on the circumstances.

Simple symmetrical roof

This type of construction is undoubtedly the most common. It is the easiest option to make yourself. His appearance always looks good. In the end, it is also good because under such a roof there remains a lot of useful attic space.

The name of the structure shows what its distinctive feature is: the slopes form an isosceles triangle. The symmetry of this figure allows it to look proportional on any home.

Simple asymmetrical roof

The main difference from the previous version is also directly reflected in the name. The ridge of this type of roof is shifted to the side and, as a result, the triangle formed by it turns from isosceles to scalene. This design looks modern, so it is well suited for homes in a modern style.

An asymmetrical roof has two important features:

1. Reducing the size of attic spaces;
2. Unequal load distribution.

As a result, this type of design is good for those who need extra space for rooms that can go right up to the roof. But it requires correct calculations.

broken roof

This type of construction is the most complex, so not everyone decides to do it with their own hands. Although, in fact, this is quite possible. It’s just important to carry out the correct calculations from the beginning. After all, the main feature is its irregular shape, where the loads are distributed extremely unevenly.

The main advantage of a sloping roof, in addition to its varied appearance, is that it provides maximum free space underneath. As a result, it is possible to equip a full-fledged residential second floor, an attic. Thanks to this feature, it is also called attic.

Rafter system design

The rafter system is the basis of the roof. There are two main design solutions for gable roof rafters:

1. Hanging.

The first of them is used when the house has internal supports, for example, load-bearing walls. In case of their absence, the hanging type is preferable.

But, regardless of what type of rafter system it is decided to build, everyone who wants to know how to build a roof with their own hands must understand the main elements of the structure. Namely:

• Rafter leg or simply rafters. Rafter legs are the basis of the design of the entire system. They are placed on top, along the building, and connected to each other to form a truss. Since they are the ones that support the roof covering, it is important to use durable wood here too. It is desirable that it be a log or timber. Installation is carried out based on pre-made calculations, since it will be very difficult to change something later;
• Rafter post. This structural element helps distribute the load from the rafters. It is a vertically located beam. Its location depends on the type of structure the roof has and its size. If we are talking about a simple symmetrical roof with a small span, then the rack is installed in the center. If the width is large, then two additional ones are placed on the sides. The asymmetrical version involves the location of this element depending on the length of the rafters, and the broken one - two on the sides. True, if there are more than one rooms, then in the latter case an additional rack in the center is needed;
• Run. The main task of the purlins is to connect the rafters, while simultaneously giving them rigidity. The purlins can be ridge or side. The first is located at the very top of the roof, in the area of ​​its ridge. They make purlins from timber. Sometimes boards are used. The most common section is 50 by 150 mm. If the girder is made not only with a ridge, but from several beams or boards on the sides with a large length of the roof, then they are supported by a stand coming from the ridge and resting on the beam. The side purlins are connected to it by means of struts;
• Strut. They are a structure made of beams located at a certain angle and resting on a bench. Their main task is to serve as supports for racks. Can be diagonal or longitudinal. The latter are used most often; they are on the same plane as the rafters. At the same time, the former are necessary if there is an increased snow or wind load in the area. With it, it is also advisable to choose a brace angle of 45 degrees;
• Sill. Located at the very bottom of the structure. If possible, it is placed on an internal load-bearing wall. Its main purpose is to serve as a support for racks. Slopes are attached to it;
• Puff. This element connects the rafter legs, located perpendicularly under them. At the same time, it provides greater structural rigidity;
• Rigel. It also connects the rafter legs, but unlike the tightening, not from below, but from above. Installed with overlap. They make a crossbar from a board of the same cross-section as the rafters themselves;
• Lathing. This element is installed at the final stage of assembling the truss structure, since it is the basis for the covering. It consists of beams and boards that parallelly connect the rafters from top to bottom. In addition to the fact that it serves to secure the roof, the sheathing helps to redistribute the load from it. Therefore, the distance between the elements depends on the material that will be used for coating.

A general understanding of the meaning of each structural element will greatly facilitate the task of building a gable roof with your own hands.

Calculations

Calculating the load on various roof elements is the most important step, since the strength and safety of the structure depends on it. It must be remembered that the triangle is its toughest part.

Loads on rafters can be of three types:

1. Permanent. These are the loads that the rafters feel constantly. For example, the weight of finishing and roofing materials, sheathing, etc. In order to recognize it, it is enough to add up all these weights. Typically the constant load is about 40 kg/m2;
2. Variables. They act at different times with different strengths. These include, for example, wind. In order to calculate the wind load or the load from precipitation, you need to look at the SNiP;
3. Special. We are talking about loads associated with increased seismic activity.

When calculating the load exerted by snow, its weight is multiplied by a set correction factor that takes into account wind pressure. A coefficient depending on the angle of inclination of the roof is also introduced - the lower it is, the greater the load. If the angle exceeds 60 degrees, it is not taken into account.

Tilt angle

The correct calculation of the angle of inclination depends on certain features. Firstly, a lot depends on the chosen material. So, ondulin, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, slate require an angle of 20–45 degrees. And soft roofing - up to 20 degrees.

Secondly, the angle of inclination depends on the climate in which the roof is being built. If there is little precipitation, then you can make it insignificant. And with a large number, it’s the other way around. But it is worth remembering that large angles are subject to large wind loads.

Rafter length

Calculating the length of the rafters is not particularly difficult. It is based on the Pythagorean theorem. The length of the rafter is taken as the hypotenuse of the triangle. And the role of the legs is played by the height of the roof and half the width of the house. It’s worth adding a few tens of centimeters to the resulting value.

Rafter foot step

Their choice depends on the weight of the structure used to cover the roof and the material used. Usually it varies between 60-100 cm.

Rafter section

Calculating the correct required cross-section of rafters is one of the most important points, since this indicator greatly affects the reliability of the structure. This takes into account:

• Loads;
• Rafter length;
• Rafter pitch;
• Material used;
• The type of wood used in the construction of the house.

The higher the pitch of the rafter legs, the higher the cross-section.
The video provides a detailed description of the calculation of the rafter system.

Types of rafter systems

There are two main types of rafter systems from which to choose when erecting a gable roof. We are talking about hanging and layered rafters. Each type is designed for different structures.

Hanging structure

Hanging ones are designed for small houses whose width does not exceed 6–6.5 linear meters. They are not suitable for houses with a wide roof. They are also not used where there is a middle load-bearing wall.

Design features

A design feature of hanging rafters is that they rest on the two outer load-bearing walls. As a result, the system is subject to a strong bursting force. If necessary, it is reduced using a bolt-bolt attached at the bottom.

Attaching to the Mauerlat

The design feature of hanging rafters also dictates how they are attached to the “foundation” of the entire system - the mauerlat. The only mounting option is to use a unit with a zero degree of freedom. Hinges, for example, cannot be used.

Layered system

Layered rafters are the only option when it comes to a large roof. But they either require an internal load-bearing wall or specially installed intermediate supports. A support is laid parallel to the Mauerlat, which takes on part of the load from the structure.

Differences between hanging and layered rafters

Hanging rafters do not require intermediate supports or an internal load-bearing wall, but their bursting force greatly influences the structure. At the same time, due to the fact that they also rest on a beam in the middle, layered rafters are easier, including in assembly. They are better suited for larger roofs.

Do-it-yourself gable roof installation

As already noted, a gable roof is especially popular due to the fact that its design allows you to build it yourself. Which is naturally quite attractive for those who like to build themselves or want to save a lot.
The construction of a gable roof structure consists of several large stages, each of which is important to perform correctly. In this case, the roof will stand for a long time and will not collapse.

Installation and fastening of the Mauerlat

Formally, a gable roof can be made without a Mauerlat. In this case, the rafters will rest on the floor beams. But it is not recommended to do this for one simple but important reason - the beams will have to take on additional load from the roof.
The Mauerlat is installed along the wall on which the rafters will rest, parallel to the ridge of the house, as shown in the photo.

Mauerlat connection

The ends of the beams that will be connected are sawn at an angle of 90 degrees. After the ends are applied to each other, they are fastened with bolts and only with bolts. It is important not to use any other material, such as nails or wire, instead of bolts.

Fastening

The methods for attaching the Mauerlat are based on the fact that it is installed on top of the wall. At the same time, it can be located either strictly in the center of the wall or offset to one of the edges. But it is important to maintain a distance of five centimeters to the outer edge.

A layer of waterproofing is placed between the wall and the timber. A simple roofing material is quite suitable for this.

This will protect the wood from the influence of moisture that may fall on the walls. The mount itself must be as strong as possible, because it will have to withstand wind loads. There are several ways to fix the Mauerlat to the wall.
The methods of attaching the Mauerlat to the walls largely depend on what material the house is being built from.

• If the building is being erected from a monolith, then the best solution is anchor bolts;
• If the house is being built from timber, then the usual solution is wooden dowels. They can be strengthened with additional fastening;
• A fairly common fastening option is staples. They are loved because they are quite versatile, although they are not the most durable solution;
• If the building is constructed from porous materials, such as foam concrete, then the right choice would be to attach the Mauerlat to the reinforcement;
• The hinged fastening, due to the fact that it is sliding, is suitable primarily for those houses that are built from materials that give noticeable shrinkage;
• As an additional fastening, you can use strong, for example, knitting wire. It is not used as an independent option.

The correct choice of fastening will allow the roof to survive the blows of even the strongest winds.

Installation of rafters and racks

There are two options for assembling rafter legs. They can be collected either from above, on the roof, or below, on the ground. The second option is easier to do with your own hands, but it takes more time. The second will require the use of mechanisms, since it is difficult to lift the structure of the rafter system upward manually.

But, one way or another, the manufacture of rafters must be done strictly according to the markings. Special templates that are made from plywood after all the calculations have been made are well suited for this.

Before attaching the rafter legs to the mauerlat, you need to make a gash in them. Only rafters can be sawed, since such procedures on the Mauerlat weaken it. Three nails are used for fastening. Two of them are driven in at the edges, and the third must be driven through the upper plane of the structure in the center. Thanks to the use of three nails driven in this way, the rafter leg is well attracted to the mauerlat and does not move.

As for the upper fastening of the rafters to each other, there are three main ways to do this.

1. Without support beam. Rafters can be spliced ​​end-to-end or overlapped. In the first case, the ends are cut so that equal angles are formed. After applying the ends to each other, they are connected using a metal or wooden strip. In addition, a nail is driven in at the top. When joining with an overlap, the ends are cut as required and connected with bolts;
2. Using a support beam. This method is necessary if we are talking about a large roof. The rafters at the ridge are also attached end-to-end or overlapping, but in addition they rest on a beam, which in turn also serves as a support for the racks;
3. Cutting method. It involves cutting the rafter legs into the support beam.

The ridge support is mounted after the two outer rafter legs are installed. Then the racks are attached. And then, the remaining rafters. You can see all this in the photo or video.

Insulation and protection from water

Proper insulation and waterproofing are very important in the domestic climate. Especially when it comes to a roof that is constantly and heavily exposed to the environment. And the moisture that accumulates in the house itself also rises to the attic in the form of steam.

Based on the above, it is important to choose insulation that has a vapor barrier function. Otherwise, its type does not matter. But as for waterproofing, roll types are considered the most suitable. For example, a special film. It can be easily laid directly on the rafters. You can see how this is done in the video.

Installation of sheathing

The sheathing is installed last, but it plays an important role.

Without it, it is inconvenient to move on the roof, and the roofing material puts unnecessary pressure on the rafters. In addition, it allows an air cushion to appear between the roofing material and the insulation.

The design of the sheathing and its pitch depend on what material will be laid on the roof.

1. The lattice sheathing is laid under slate, tiles or metal tiles, and corrugated sheets. In the case of metal tiles, the distance should be 350 mm, and for slate and corrugated sheets - 400 mm;
2. Solid sheathing is used for soft types of covering.

It is made from timber or boards, and if we are talking about soft ones, from plywood, OSB sheets or the same board. They are laid on a beam located along the rafters, as shown in the photo and video.

Calculation of roof area

A gable roof often has a simple shape, so calculating its area is not difficult. But it is extremely important to do this accurately, because the consumption of materials depends on knowledge of the area.

When calculating the roof area, in order to avoid confusion, you should not pay attention to the parameters of various ventilation openings, roof windows or chimneys. You just need to know the height from the ceiling to the ridge and the length of the ridge run. These parameters are multiplied. If you divide the roof area by the sine of the rafter angle, you can find out the area of ​​one slope.

Typical parameters

A design feature that distinguishes a gable roof is that it can be divided into separate standard parts. By calculating the area of ​​each such element separately and adding everything together, you can get the required amount of materials.

Since the roof is made with a slope, you need to know its angle.

The cosine of the angle is needed to determine the exact area of ​​almost all elements.

Typical elements are the rafter legs that form the base of the trusses. In addition to them, there are braces, struts, supports, purlins.

Roofing: selection and installation

Installation of the roofing is the final stage of the work. But it is preceded by the selection of suitable material. Nowadays, manufacturers offer a huge selection of roofing materials, each of which has its own pros and cons. The choice is always up to the consumer and depends on his aesthetic preferences, financial capabilities and climate.

• Natural tiles. This is a very beautiful, traditional, but at the same time expensive material. Its high price is compensated by a very long service life, unless, of course, it is deliberately damaged or it is exposed to extremely unfavorable weather conditions;
• Metal coating. This roofing is also a fairly traditional solution. Today, manufacturers offer many options for metal roof sheets, differing not only in strength, but also in appearance;
• Wooden roof. A shingle or spindle roof certainly has many aesthetic benefits. But it is quite expensive and susceptible to rotting without special treatment;
• Self-leveling coating. It is considered quite inexpensive and reliable. Belongs to the category of soft coverings. The disadvantage is that it can only be used on roofs with not very steep slopes.

Each type of material is installed in its own way and different fastenings are used for them. Information can be obtained from the video or from the manufacturer. Then the eaves overhangs are installed.

Fastening parts

The ability to correctly fasten the smallest details is the most important in making a roof with your own hands. There are several basic methods for connecting and fastening parts of a roof structure.

So, a groove connection is used to fasten diagonal parts. If we are talking about connecting perpendicular elements, then it is suitable only for those of them where strength is not so important.

Metal corners and plates are also quite popular. They are distinguished by good strength. But the disadvantage is the danger that some screws will turn out from the load. To minimize risks, a combined fastening method is used.

Cost of a gable roof

The cost varies greatly depending on whether the roof is done with your own hands or with the help of craftsmen. In the latter case, it will be significantly more expensive and the price can reach several hundred thousand. In the first case, the main costs will go to materials.

The total price of the structure includes:

• Materials;
• Installation of the Mauerlat;
• Installation of rafter system;
• Installation of waterproofing;
• Installation of sheathing;
• Roof installation.

Carrying out any of these elements yourself reduces the cost of construction.

The gable is a prominent part of the house. Therefore, it is customary to use attractive materials for its cladding. This could be a board that matches the roof, plywood or siding. In the case of wooden houses, the pediment can be cut out in advance. This is explained in more detail in the video.
Thanks to the simplicity and accessibility of the design, which allows you to install it yourself, the gable roof has become a truly universal solution. Knowledge of individual features will make it easy to avoid the main problems during its construction.

When choosing a project for a private house or country house, you have to take into account a large number of factors. A special issue is the choice of roof shape. It is both the main protection of the house and its decoration. It can have a wide variety of appearance and shape. There are so many of them that it will not be so easy for a person who has to deal with house building for the first time to navigate.

The most popular type of roof in private construction is the gable roof. Judging even by just one name - “double-slope”, then it is not difficult to guess that it should consist of two planes-slopes. Usually, they rest on load-bearing walls of the same height. The space between the slopes, which, by the way, can be considered their distinctive feature, has a clearly defined triangle shape. Apparently, due to their external resemblance to tongs, they are also called gable. The types of gable roofs are very diverse. They vary in shape, rafter design, presence of attic space, etc.

The most popular types of gable roofs

Half-hip: advantages and disadvantages

In areas where strong winds constantly blow, as a rule, preference is given to houses with a half-hip roof - one of the types of hip roofs. A half-hip roof is basically the same as a regular gable roof, but with small overhangs on the end sides. The cut slopes on the sides have a shorter length along the slope line than the main slopes. It is due to this structure that the half-hip structure is able to withstand high wind loads. At the same time, its attic space has a convenient enough shape and size to arrange a residential or utility room there. The gables of the house are also perfectly protected from any precipitation. In addition, it gives the house a fabulous, unusual look.

Its truss structure is much more complex than that of, due to various stops, struts, sprigs, trusses, a large number of ribs, valleys, intermediate rafters and other structural elements. It requires not only competent mathematical calculations, but also competent manufacturing. Of course, it will most likely not be possible to save on materials during construction, but the walls of the house will be guaranteed to be protected from precipitation and wind.

Mansard roof: simple in design but effective

Another variety. It is formed by two gentle slopes, closed at the top, and two steep slopes, which are their continuation. This form, which allows for fuller use of attic space, is in great consumer demand today. The design of the attic roof rafter system consists of hanging rafters, which ensures the void in the middle part of the room.

Broken line is the best option for the attic

A broken roof differs from a standard gable roof by the presence of kinks on the sides, which provide high ceilings in the interior. It may be higher than an ordinary gable roof, which, due to its too steep slope, will not be able to withstand wind loads. Thanks to the fracture in the slope, the most vulnerable part of the roof, the upper one, which during operation takes up the wind load, receives a slight slope, while the lower one is directed very sharply downward. Compliance with the proportions of its elements is of great importance.

The most common options for gable roofs are:

• with a slope of 45° with a classic rafter system, It is especially often used in the middle zone of the country; by the way, its ideal option is a width of 6 meters, up to a maximum of 8.
• gable mansard roof, the slope angle of which is 60° - the so-called pointed one. This is a fairly expensive option; it is used for houses more than 6 meters wide.
• sloping roof with an attic with two slopes having different slopes (often 30° and 60°). This is the most suitable and most economical option for houses whose width does not exceed 6 meters.

Types of gable roofs according to the purpose of the structure

Dacha cabins are an excellent option for those who dream of a large country house, but have not yet had time to build it, or for those who like to spend theirs in a small and comfortable dacha. In this case, a gable roof in combination with a porch and wooden windows will look like an ideal small, cute country house.

Roof installation is a complex multi-step process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to carefully study the methods of connecting elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you don’t have the necessary experience, you shouldn’t take on complex designs. The best option for a small residential building is a do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured using threaded steel rods embedded in the wall or anchor bolts. The timber must be made of coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the external walls.

Rafter legs- these are long boards with a cross section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The structure of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, you should take into account not only the weight of the covering, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. The beam is supported from below by vertical posts, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards that are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks are vertical beams with a cross section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and used to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from scraps of timber and installed at an angle between the posts and rafters. The side edges of the truss are strengthened with struts and the load-bearing capacity of the structure is increased.

Tie - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with the struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss and increase its resistance to loads.

A log is a long beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The sheathing consists of boards or timber placed on the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the external walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other using nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge beams. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the external walls. Due to the absence of racks, the attic space can be used for arranging an attic. Very often, the function of tightening is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

If there is a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered rafter system. A bench is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to implement. If ceilings in interior spaces are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced with a brick wall dividing the attic into two halves.

The roof installation process includes several stages: attaching the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the sheathing. Before assembly, all wooden elements are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in air.

To work you will need:

• timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
• boards 50x150 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
• roofing felt;
• metal studs;
• jigsaw and hacksaw;
• hammer;
• nails and screws;
• square and building level.

In wooden houses The functions of the mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which significantly simplifies the work process. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut grooves of the appropriate size on the inside of the logs.

In brick houses or buildings made of blocks, installation of the Mauerlat occurs as follows:

The mauerlat bars must form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. Finally, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

When choosing a hanging rafter system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the purlin between the external walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often it is 4-6 m, taking into account the eaves overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlapping, end-to-end and “into the paw”, that is, with grooves cut out. Metal plates or bolts are used for fixation. Next, the lower and upper ties are installed, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the floors.

The outer trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are aligned vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. To prevent the truss from moving during installation, it is reinforced with temporary beams made of timber. After installing the outer rafters, the rest are set, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are secured, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the cornice, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. The same is done on the other side of the roof.

The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point where it touches the mauerlat, 1/3 of the width of the beam. Stepping back 15 cm from the top of the box, a steel spike is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut with a circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

Second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped cornice of bricks, and the mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut out in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut to the level of the upper corner of the cornice. This method is simpler than others, but the overhang is too narrow.

Third option: ceiling beams extend beyond the edge of the outer wall by 40-50 cm, and roof trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, secured with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic space.

Installation of layered rafters

Figure 1 shows the cutting of rafter struts into a beam laid on intermediate supports, and Fig. 2 - resting the rafter leg on the mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the sheathing.

For the sheathing, timber 50x50 mm is suitable, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the sheathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal strips from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are secured with tape. The lower edges of the film should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first wooden slats 3-4 cm thick are stuffed onto the film, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the roof eaves. The pitch of the sheathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the greater the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After completing the installation of the sheathing, they begin cladding the gables and overhangs. You can cover the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated sheeting - it all depends on your financial capabilities and personal preferences. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed with various materials - from wood to siding.

Video - DIY gable roof

When they tell me that the roof is the usual enclosing upper part of the building, I feel a little sad. After all, this is the protection not only of the building, but of the entire family or individual as a whole. Types of roofs can be very different both in design and in shape, appearance and color.

But now I want to tell you exactly about its types.

They can be without an attic, and if there is one, then this category can be divided into several more: cold and insulated. They may include purlins, trusses or panels. You see how much there is, every now and then you will get confused. That’s why I wrote this article to figure out what types of roofs there are and how to build one that’s right for you.

Introduction

At the very beginning, it is necessary to say a few words about the components of the roof themselves and explain some points. Of course, you can see the types of roofs of private houses in my article in the photo, but it would be better to read about the description of complex elements.

A slope is a surface with a certain slope. It is intended for natural drainage of water from the roofing. The types of roofs for a private house are usually simple, but there are those where it may be necessary to join two slopes. If viewed from the outside, such a place will be called a rib, and if viewed from the outside, it will be called a valley. The joining corner at the top of the slopes, running along the entire length, is called the ridge.

IMPORTANT: The slope of the slope is determined not only by the advice of the roofing manufacturer or the help of a neighbor. Use regulatory documents, take into account the material and rafter system, architectural requirements, as well as the climatic conditions of your region.

The construction “pie” is called the layers of waterproofing - insulation - waterproofing.

The most common types of roofing for the roofs of private houses are gable roofs, where the attic space plays the role of thermal protection. Do not think that this particular roof will suit you because of its prevalence, because at the moment there is a very large selection of shapes and types of roofing structures. They not only define the design, but can also provide advanced features.

As an example, I can give you a picture that I very often observe, when, after installing the roof, my clients increase their useful living space at the expense of the attic space. This is more economically profitable than building an extension nearby while reducing the usable area of ​​the summer cottage. If in the future you also want to do the same, then keep in mind that not all types of roofing for private houses are suitable for this, so carefully study the attached photos.

So, now let's look at all the types of country house roofs in the article, and if this is not enough for you, then you can watch the video at the end of the article.

Flat roof

The very first and simplest type of roofing is a flat roof. But you shouldn’t think that it no longer has a slope at all, because somehow it is necessary to remove precipitation.

When installing a flat type covering, the slope angle is set in the range of 2-3% relative to the horizon. Such a small slope is its big disadvantage, because it is because of it that precipitation in the form of snow and ice easily accumulates on the surface, which entails additional costs for cleaning the area. In addition, emergency situations arise: leakage, damage to the roof during mechanical cleaning, etc.

All elements, products, materials in construction cannot have only negative sides, so I would like to highlight the positive ones.

Advantages of flat roofs:

• Economic benefit. If you know geometry even a little, then you can understand the fact that a gable roof will be larger in area than a flat one, and hence the savings on materials
• Ease of installation. Feeding floor elements using a crane will not be difficult. You don’t have to climb anywhere and install the roofing pie, because it’s right under your feet
• Maintenance of elements and their preventive inspection will not cause any particular difficulties
• It is possible to increase the useful area by installing a relaxation zone, a small garden or a terrace on it

As for the last point, in European cities this has long been a common practice, and the popularity of placing elements of lawns or parks came not so long ago, but still took off with a bang.

Main design elements:

• Base. In this role you can often see a reinforced concrete slab, metal profile
• Pie
• Roof covering

In addition to those listed, there are several more layers, remember that each of them has a special function. Before installing decorative elements on the roof area, carry out analysis and additional calculations.

CONCLUSION: All types of roofs for a private house change it and make it unique, so if you do not have additional finances or just want a regular home without decorative elements at the top of the building, choose another one.

Roofs with slopes

Walking down the street, you probably noticed that the most common types of gable roofs are in private houses with a cold attic; if you can’t figure out how to distinguish them, then look at the photos on the Internet. Cold attic spaces are, as a rule, made by those people who do not need an additional floor, and use its space for storage purposes.

I said a few words about cold attics, but there is another type of pitched roof, and it is insulated. The only distinguishing feature in it will be the presence of a thicker cake and less cross-ventilation. Often such attics are created in order to occupy this area for living space in the future.

The pitched roof itself is a fairly simple structure, because it consists of only several inclined ones, in which the slope exceeds 10 degrees. These types of roofs can differ in design into combined and separate. If you don’t understand the differences, you can look at a few photos.

For example, as soon as I started studying construction, I couldn’t understand for a long time how a roof could be combined with something, or even more so separated. It turned out that everything is much simpler. The separate type implies a non-residential attic, which serves as a divider between the living space below and the uppermost space, and if we take the combined type, then there is simply no ceiling, and elements of the rafter system immediately go on top.

As you already know, the degree of slope of the slope allows you to remove precipitation without problems, but how to calculate it correctly so that everything functions like a clock?

• The amount of precipitation for your place of residence. Please note that the greater the slope of your slope, the faster the snow masses will leave the roofing. By the way, you should not make a sharp roof, it will not only look terrible, but will also collapse at the first strong gust of wind. Choose the optimal angle based on the standards
• Roofing material. All coating manufacturers in modern construction provide a brochure with recommendations. You can follow it, but again check the regulations
• Design features. If you need a large attic volume, then a higher degree of slope will “eat up” the attic space

Construction is a unique thing in which a creative person can make almost any dream come true and even create a castle for himself. Look at the gorgeous views of gable roofs in the photo and see for yourself.

Curiosity in the form of one stingray

Such strange and unique houses, where a roof with only one slope is used, can most often be seen in America, and in our country even different types of pitched roofs are rare.

The rafter system of such roofs is designed in such a way that it rests on external walls of different heights, and it is thanks to this that the necessary slope is formed.

Speaking about the rare occurrence of such houses in the CIS countries, I meant that this type is not often used in our country for residential buildings, but on the contrary for household buildings. It's all about ease of installation and a wide selection of materials. For example, the following are suitable for roofing:

• Ruberoid
• Metal profile
• Slate
• Roof tiles
• Ondulin

It is very easy to design a system for removing atmospheric precipitation, because the roof has only one slope with a slope on a certain side.

When I offer developers the installation of a pitched roof, they very often say that their house will be unattractive, simple and generally strange. But, having been working for several decades, I can note that with the proper imagination and imagination, you can create a rather luxurious home from just one slope. So, fantasize and know that you can always order standard types of pitched roofs, but you need to try to come up with something original, fortunately now there is the Internet, where you can find a lot of gorgeous photos with unusual roof designs.

In my opinion, the only drawback is the lack of an attic space or its small volume.

The main structural elements of this roof are:

• Rafter system and many additional elements to it. For example, to cover a long span, you will have to use struts, spacers, crossbars, etc., in order to give the system the required rigidity
• Pie
• Lathing. By the way, it will serve as the basis for the roof, so you should be wise in choosing the material for this structure
• Roofing material

Two slopes are a frequent choice of country house developers

The most common roof I work with is gable. Developers often prefer this particular type, but why is it so attractive to them?

This roof can be called not only gable, but also gable. If you don't know what this is, then I'll explain. The space that is formed on the sides of the building thanks to two slopes is called a pediment or, in other words, gables.

By the way, the construction of such a roof is even a little lighter than a pitched roof, and we can confidently note that this type is the simplest and most reliable design. It can easily withstand strong gusts of wind and any precipitation. By playing with the selection of roofing, you can achieve a unique combination of colors with the terrain.

As the main components I would like to note:

• Rafter legs
• Mauerlat
• Pie
• Rigel
• Lathing
• Struts

As you can understand from the article, this type of roofing is very popular because of its simplicity and low cost, but if you want to increase your living space over time, then don’t count on many square meters.

Houses with attic floors

Mansard roofing is one of the varieties of gable roofing. Its distinctive feature is its broken slopes. Thanks to them, it is sometimes called a broken line. The surprising thing is that you can make a fracture at any degree and get amazing looks. The view from the inside, as well as from the outside, of a house with a complex roof will both attract and surprise, but the most important advantage is the large attic space, which can be converted into living space.

The pediments of mansard roofs are usually pentagonal. Of course, complicated structures with a broken roof will have completely different shapes. Despite all the complexity and dimensions, it can be built very quickly. Private cottages and dachas - this is the type of house for which these roofs should be used.

TIP: Pay special attention to the installation of thermal insulation, because in winter, at subzero temperatures, large heat losses can occur, and this entails additional financial costs for heating.

The ascents to the attic floor are often designed inside the housing itself in the form of a staircase. It comes in very different types and sizes, so there is an option to create your own unique interior, but if you do not need access to this floor all year round, then you can limit yourself to access from the street.

Hip and half-hip roof

In construction, a hip roof is called a hip roof. It is worth noting that not all of its slopes are the same in area. If we look at the roof from the end, we will see a triangle, and if from the facade, we will see a trapezoid. It is these triangles that are called hips, which gave the name to this type.

For installation, a special design is used with tightening on both sides and beams. This design feature of the roof does not allow precipitation to linger for a long time. If everything is done according to regulatory documents, then these types of hip roofs will be called classic and are the majority of them in the photos on the Internet. As a rule, the angles of inclination of its slopes are 45 degrees. Despite such a steep slope, the rafter system feels confident in strong gusts of wind.

Due to the complexity of the structures and the need to install a complex drainage system, it is best to use the services of specialists, because when working independently, shortcomings may arise that will entail, although not serious, very unpleasant consequences.

As for materials, this roof is not fancy and therefore you can use any, regardless of weight and size. For example, if you want to provide sound insulation, then use heavier materials as roofing. Not only will they suppress noise, but the roof itself will be more stable and last longer.

Structure composition:

• Ridge beam. It is installed at the highest point of the hip roof at the junction of the edges. In the case when additional architectural solutions are not required and the roof is classical, then the center of this beam falls on the center of the roof area
• Corner rafters. Where such elements will be located is already clear from the name, but what is their function? Their task is to create a connection between the ridge beam and the corners of the building
• Short rafters. If the location of the previous ones could be understood by the name, then these ones will be completely confusing. Their number is determined by the roof area. Such rafters rest on the corner of the house or the mauerlat, and their function is to connect the corner rafters
• Rafter legs. They are divided into intermediate and basic. The second ones have to rely on the Mauerlat in order to distribute the main weight of the entire roof structure along the length, and the intermediate ones are installed only at the ends of the ridge beams. Their number must correspond to the number 6

If you are not a professional in the field of construction, then you only needed to understand from everything described above that such a structure is quite complex and you cannot install it yourself.

There is also a peculiar subspecies of the hip roof - half-hip (Dutch). The design feature of this type was obtained by combining gable and hip.

Types of half-hip roof shapes have a unique feature. Thanks to its structure, you will not find a single sharp corner on its surface, so it will be even more resistant to gusts of air, which will be a useful nuance for residents of windy regions.

When I was visiting my friends in Siberia, where frosts reach high levels, I noticed a distinctive feature of those buildings compared to ours. Their roofs had very steep slopes and small overhangs, but ours had the opposite. Then I realized that this was due to heavy snowfall in the area.

Comfort under the tent

The roof tent, oddly enough, is one of the varieties of the hip type. The appearance of such a house immediately takes on a mysterious and somewhat mystical appearance. But all this is due to very rare cases of encounters with such a roof. By the way, its construction is possible only if there is a regular figure (square or rectangle) at the base, because all the slopes must be in the form of isosceles triangles, and the vertices must converge at the highest point.

Installation of these roofs is a very difficult technological process that even the most knowledgeable professionals will not perform well. Therefore, these types of roofs and shapes can rarely be found in everyday life, most likely only in photographs.

Multi-pincer standard

There are so many types of roofs! Some we often encounter in everyday life, others can only be found in photographs or among the rich in their palaces.

A special feature of this type is its complex polygonal shape. It is ideal for houses with side attics and extensions. Installation of a multi-gable roof is always associated with high complexity, but the appearance at the end of the work will be unique.

House under the dome

The domed roof is becoming increasingly popular among designers and architects. All the beauty and mystery is given not to the house, but to the roof itself. After all, it occupies 4/5 of the visual size, and 1/5 is allocated to the building.

Despite the fact that the dome is a circle at the base, you can play very cleverly with the interior of the building. For example, a frame is created using curved elements, and the roof covering is laid using flexible materials. As a result of this tandem, a unique structure is obtained, not found anywhere else in the world.

Now do you understand what types of roofs there are for private houses? And therefore, this question should not cause any difficulties for you, I told you everything I know about it, and now, as a conclusion, a few words about choice.

The right choice from many

In order to choose the right one from such a number of roofs, you need to correctly create the search criteria. After all, if the roof is the most beautiful, it is not a fact that it will be warm or have the functionality you need.

Therefore, when choosing a roof for yourself, I ask you to answer these questions:

• What function will your attic space serve? Will it remain uninhabited or will you build a room on it?
• Will there be full-size windows on the second floor or just dormers?
• Is warm attic temperature important to you?
• What roofing material will your covering be made of?
• What does the house look like in cross section?

This list does not cover all aspects regarding the future roof, so make up additional questions yourself so that they cover all the nuances and then decide which type suits you best.

Rafters perform a number of significant roofing functions. They set the configuration of the future roof, absorb atmospheric loads, and hold the material. Among the rafter's duties are the formation of smooth planes for laying the covering and providing space for the components of the roofing pie.

In order for such a valuable part of the roof to flawlessly cope with the listed tasks, information is needed about the rules and principles of its design. The information is useful both for those who are constructing a gable roof truss system with their own hands, and for those who decide to resort to the services of a hired team of builders.

Wooden and metal beams are used to construct the rafter frame for pitched roofs. The starting material for the first option is a board, log, timber.

The second is constructed from rolled metal: channel, profile pipe, I-beam, angle. There are combined structures with the most heavily loaded steel parts and wood elements in less critical areas.

In addition to its “iron” strength, metal has many disadvantages. These include thermal qualities that are unsatisfactory to the owners of residential buildings. The need to use welded joints is disappointing. Most often, industrial buildings are equipped with steel rafters, and less often, private cabins assembled from metal modules.

In the matter of independent construction of rafter structures for private houses, wood is a priority. It is not difficult to work with, it is lighter, “warmer”, and more attractive in terms of environmental criteria. In addition, to make nodal connections you will not need a welding machine or welder skills.

Rafters - a fundamental element

The main “player” of the frame for constructing a roof is the rafter, which among roofers is called a rafter leg. Beams, braces, headstocks, purlins, ties, even a Mauerlat may or may not be used depending on the architectural complexity and dimensions of the roof.

Rafters used in the construction of gable roof frames are divided into:

• Layered rafter legs, both heels of which have reliable structural supports under them. The lower edge of the layered rafter rests against the mauerlat or the ceiling crown of the log house. The support for the upper edge can be a mirror analogue of the adjacent rafter or a purlin, which is a beam laid horizontally under the ridge. In the first case, the rafter system is called spacer, in the second, non-spacer.
• Hanging rafters, the top of which rests against each other, and the bottom is based on an additional beam - a tie. The latter connects the two lower heels of adjacent rafter legs, resulting in a triangular module called a rafter truss. Tightening dampens the tensile processes, so that only vertically directed load acts on the walls. Although a structure with hanging rafters is braced, the bracing itself does not transmit to the walls.

In accordance with the technological specifics of rafter legs, the structures constructed from them are divided into layered and hanging. For stability, the structures are equipped with struts and additional racks.

To support the top of the layered rafters, planks and purlins are installed. In reality, the rafter structure is much more complex than the elementary templates described.

Note that the formation of the frame of a gable roof can generally be done without a rafter structure. In such situations, the supposed planes of the slopes are formed by slabs - beams laid directly on the load-bearing gables.

However, what interests us now is specifically the design of the rafter system of a gable roof, and it can involve either hanging or layered rafters, or a combination of both types.

Subtleties of fastening rafter legs

The rafter system is fastened to brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete walls through a Mauerlat, which in turn is fixed with anchors.

Between the Mauerlat, which is a wooden frame, and the walls made of the specified materials, a waterproofing layer made of roofing felt, waterproofing material, etc. is required.

The top of brick walls is sometimes specially laid out so that along the outer perimeter there is something like a low parapet. This is so that the mauerlat placed inside the parapet and the walls do not push apart the rafter legs.

The rafters of the roof frame of wooden houses rest on the upper crown or on the ceiling beams. The connection in all cases is made by notches and is duplicated with nails, bolts, metal or wooden plates.

How to do without mind-boggling calculations?

It is highly desirable that the cross-section and linear dimensions of wooden beams be determined by the project. The designer will provide clear calculation justification for the geometric parameters of the board or beam, taking into account the entire range of loads and weather conditions. If the home craftsman does not have a design development at his disposal, his path lies on the construction site of a house with a similar roofing structure.

You don’t have to pay attention to the number of floors of the building being constructed. It is easier and more correct to find out the required dimensions from the foreman than to find out them from the owners of a shaky self-built building. After all, in the hands of the foreman is documentation with a clear calculation of the loads per 1 m² of roof in a specific region.

The installation pitch of the rafters determines the type and weight of the roofing. The heavier it is, the smaller the distance between the rafter legs should be. For laying clay tiles, for example, the optimal distance between the rafters will be 0.6-0.7 m, and for corrugated sheets 1.5-2.0 m is acceptable.

However, even if the pitch required for proper installation of the roof is exceeded, there is a way out. This is a reinforcing counter-lattice device. True, it will increase both the weight of the roof and the construction budget. Therefore, it is better to understand the pitch of the rafters before constructing the rafter system.

Craftsmen calculate the pitch of the rafters according to the design features of the building, simply dividing the length of the slope into equal distances. For insulated roofs, the pitch between the rafters is selected based on the width of the insulation slabs.

You can find it on our website, which may also help you a lot during construction.

Rafter structures of layered type

Layered rafter structures are much simpler to construct than their hanging counterparts. A reasonable advantage of the layered scheme is to ensure adequate ventilation, which is directly related to long-term service.

Distinctive design features:

• It is mandatory to have support under the ridge heel of the rafter leg. The role of support can be played by a purlin - a wooden beam resting on posts or on the internal wall of the building, or the upper end of an adjacent rafter.
• Using a Mauerlat to erect a truss structure on walls made of brick or artificial stone.
• The use of additional purlins and racks where the rafter legs, due to the large size of the roof, require additional support points.

The disadvantage of the scheme is the presence of structural elements that affect the layout of the internal space of the attic in use.

If the attic is cold and it is not intended to organize useful rooms, then the layered structure of the rafter system for installing a gable roof should be given preference.

Typical sequence of work for the construction of a layered truss structure:

• First of all, we measure the heights of the building, the diagonals and horizontality of the upper cut of the frame. If we identify vertical deviations in brick and concrete walls, we eliminate them with a cement-sand screed. Exceeding the heights of the log house is cut off. By placing wood chips under the mauerlat, vertical flaws can be combated if their size is insignificant.
• The floor surface for laying the bed must also be leveled. It, the Mauerlat and the girder must be clearly horizontal, but the location of the listed elements in the same plane is not necessary.
• We treat all wooden parts of the structure with fire retardants and antiseptics before installation.
• We lay waterproofing on concrete and brick walls for installation of the Mauerlat.
• We lay the mauerlat beam on the walls and measure its diagonals. If necessary, we slightly move the bars and turn the corners, trying to achieve the ideal geometry. Align the frame horizontally if necessary.
• We mount the Mauerlat frame. The beams are joined into a single frame using oblique notches; the joints are duplicated with bolts.
• We fix the position of the Mauerlat. Fastening is done either with staples to wooden plugs installed in advance in the wall, or with anchor bolts.
• Mark the position of the prone position. Its axis should recede from the mauerlat bars at equal distances on each side. If the run will rest only on posts without supports, we carry out the marking procedure only for these posts.
• We install the bed on a two-layer waterproofing. We attach it to the base with anchor bolts, and connect it to the inner wall with wire twists or staples.
• We mark the installation points of the rafter legs.
• We cut out the racks to uniform sizes, because... Our bed is exposed to the horizon. The height of the racks should take into account the cross-sectional dimensions of the purlin and beam.
• We install racks. If provided by the design, we secure them with spacers.
• We lay the purlin on the racks. We check the geometry again, then install brackets, metal plates, and wooden mounting plates.
• We install a test rafter board and mark the cutting areas on it. If the Mauerlat is set strictly to the horizon, there is no need to adjust the rafters on the roof after the fact. The first board can be used as a template for making the rest.
• We mark the installation points of the rafters. For marking, folk craftsmen usually prepare a pair of slats, the length of which is equal to the clearance between the rafters.
• According to the markings, we install the rafter legs and fasten them first at the bottom to the mauerlat, then at the top to the purlin to each other. Every second rafter is screwed to the Mauerlat with a wire bundle. In wooden houses, the rafters are screwed to the second crown from the top row.

If the rafter system is made flawlessly, the layer boards are installed in any order.

If there is no confidence in the ideal structure, then the outer pairs of rafters are installed first. A control string or fishing line is stretched between them, according to which the position of the newly installed rafters is adjusted.

The installation of the rafter structure is completed by installing fillets, if the length of the rafter legs does not allow forming an overhang of the required length. By the way, for wooden buildings the overhang should “extend” the contour of the building by 50 cm. If you plan to organize a canopy, separate mini-rafters are installed under it.

Another useful video about building a gable rafter base with your own hands:

Hanging rafter systems

The hanging variety of rafter systems is a triangle. The two upper sides of the triangle are folded by a pair of rafters, and the base is the tie connecting the lower heels.

The use of tightening allows you to neutralize the effect of the thrust, therefore, only the weight of the sheathing, roof, plus, depending on the season, the weight of precipitation, acts on walls with hanging rafter structures.

Specifics of hanging rafter systems

Characteristic features of hanging type rafter structures:

• The obligatory presence of a tie, most often made of wood, less often of metal.
• Possibility to refuse to use the Mauerlat. A timber frame can be successfully replaced by a board laid on double-layer waterproofing.
• Installation of ready-made closed triangles – trusses – on the walls.

The advantages of the hanging scheme include the space under the roof free from racks, which allows you to organize an attic without pillars and partitions. There are disadvantages.

The first of them is restrictions on the steepness of the slopes: their slope angle can be at least 1/6 of the span of a triangular truss; steeper roofs are strongly recommended. The second disadvantage is the need for detailed calculations for the proper installation of cornice units.

Among other things, the angle of the truss will have to be installed with pinpoint precision, because the axes of the connected components of the hanging rafter system must intersect at a point, the projection of which must fall on the central axis of the Mauerlat or the backing board replacing it.

Subtleties of long-span hanging systems

The tie is the longest element of a hanging rafter structure. Over time, as is typical for all lumber, it becomes deformed and sags under the influence of its own weight.

Owners of houses with spans of 3-5 meters are not too concerned about this circumstance, but owners of buildings with spans of 6 meters or more should think about installing additional parts that exclude geometric changes in tightening.

To prevent sagging, there is a very significant component in the installation diagram of the rafter system for a long-span gable roof. This is a pendant called a grandmother.

Most often it is a block attached with wooden pegs to the top of the truss. The headstock should not be confused with the racks, because its lower part should not come into contact with the puff at all. And the installation of racks as supports in hanging systems is not used.

The bottom line is that the headstock hangs, as it were, on the ridge assembly, and a tightening is attached to it using bolts or nailed wooden plates. To correct sagging tightening, threaded or collet-type clamps are used.

The tightening position can be adjusted in the area of ​​the ridge assembly, and the headstock can be rigidly connected to it by a notch. Instead of a bar in non-residential attics, reinforcement can be used to make the described tension element. It is also recommended to install a headstock or hanger where the tie is assembled from two beams to support the connection area.

In an improved hanging system of this type, the headstock is complemented by strut beams. The stress forces in the resulting rhombus are extinguished spontaneously due to the proper placement of vector loads acting on the system.

As a result, the rafter system is stable with minor and not too expensive modernization.

Hanging type for attics

In order to increase the usable space, the tightening of the rafter triangles for the attic is moved closer to the ridge. A completely reasonable move has additional advantages: it allows you to use the puffs as a basis for lining the ceiling.

It is connected to the rafters by cutting with a half-pan and duplicating with a bolt. It is protected from sagging by installing a short headstock.

A noticeable disadvantage of the hanging attic structure is the need for accurate calculations. It is too difficult to calculate it yourself; it is better to use a ready-made project.

Which design is more cost effective?

Cost is an important argument for an independent builder. Naturally, the price of construction for both types of rafter systems cannot be the same, because:

• In the construction of a layered structure, a board or beam of small cross-section is used to make rafter legs. Because layered rafters have two reliable supports underneath them; the requirements for their power are lower than in the hanging version.
• In the construction of a hanging structure, the rafters are made of thick timber. To make a tightening, a material with a similar cross-section is required. Even taking into account the abandonment of the Mauerlat, the consumption will be significantly higher.

It will not be possible to save on the grade of material. For the load-bearing elements of both systems: rafters, purlins, beams, mauerlat, headstocks, racks, 2nd grade lumber is needed.

For crossbars and tensile ties, grade 1 will be required. In the manufacture of less critical wooden overlays, grade 3 can be used. Without counting, we can say that in the construction of hanging systems, expensive material is used in greater quantities.

Hanging trusses are assembled in an open area next to the facility, then transported, assembled, upstairs. To lift weighty triangular arches from timber, you will need equipment, the rental of which will have to be paid. And the project for complex nodes of the hanging version is also worth something.

Video instruction on the construction of a hanging category truss structure:

There are actually many more methods for constructing rafter systems for roofs with two slopes.

We have described only the basic varieties, which in reality are applicable for small country houses and buildings without architectural tricks. However, the information presented is enough to cope with the construction of a simple truss structure.