How to build a bathhouse for less. Mini-sauna for a summer residence: materials, varieties, budget and economical projects. Prices for thermal insulation materials

Since ancient times, the bathhouse has been a place where you can relax and unwind. These ancient buildings surpass even outdoor recreation in popularity.

How to build a bathhouse yourself?

Building a bathhouse with your own hands is a difficult task and its implementation will require a certain amount of knowledge, which you will soon learn about.

To build a bathhouse with your own hands, you will need to familiarize yourself with the action plan:

Design a bathhouse;
Understand the stages of construction;
Get building materials;
Connect communications;
Arrange the bathhouse from the inside.

After familiarizing yourself with the stages of construction, you need to decide on the place where the bathhouse will be located, since a lot also depends on the location.

The best option would be if:

the bathhouse will be located on a hill, this will significantly simplify the installation of a water drain;
there will be a river or pond next to the bathhouse;
The window in the bathhouse will be located opposite the house, which will allow you to observe its firebox.

For a garden house, the distance will be no more than 3 meters, and for buildings such as a bathhouse, this distance should not exceed 1 meter.

It is best to order the design and drawings of the bathhouse from local designers; this will cost about 5,000 rubles. You can also search for ready-made sketches and photos of bathhouses on the Internet that best suit your preferences.

Bathhouse made of brick, stone or blocks

As materials for a brick bath, you can use brick, stone or blocks directly.

To build a bathhouse, you need to dig a pit and fill it with 20 cm of sand, then fill it with water to compact it.

The second step is to lay crushed stone on top of 10 cm thick sand, which then needs to be covered with sand again.

The last step will be to install a system for drainage and drainage of the building.

Bathhouse made of timber

The first layer for the base of the bathhouse will be a 20 cm layer of sand, crushed stone is applied as the second layer, and concrete pouring is laid as the third layer. The key stage will be the reinforcement of the building.

Metal rods need to be inserted into the layers for a more durable structure, and for additional stability, metal plates should be laid in the middle, which are tied with wire.

Note!

The next stage of work is the blind area, which is needed to ensure that the foundation of the bathhouse is not washed out with water.

It is best to make a blind area from clay, it is much stronger than concrete, and also does not form cold seams in the process. A layer of crushed stone must be poured on top of the blind area.

Next, you need to install a drain in the bath. First you need to dig a hole and bring its trench to the edge of the foundation of the building, cover the walls of the hole with wooden boards with reinforced wire, and then fill it all with concrete.

Frame bath

The foundation for such a bath structure is made using simplified technology, which is the advantage of a frame bath. It is necessary to make a foundation of asbestos-cement pillars, which, after installation, are filled with concrete mixture.

The next step will be marking the walls. Then you need to start connecting the boards using nails. The upper and lower trim is assembled from the boards. The walls for such a bath are made in a lattice structure.

Note!

The materials needed for the walls are bars, insulation, and materials for the outside, such as OSB boards or block house, and inside you can use lining.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is worth insulating a bathhouse from the outside only if there is heating in the building.

For a wooden bath it is necessary to make a grate that will be inserted into the insulation. The work will require mineral wool with a layer width of 50 mm.

Bath floor

In the case of a frame bath, when all that remains is to insulate the floors, as well as install the floor boards, in addition to this, it is necessary to install logs, a subfloor, and secure the structure for steam removal, then lay the insulation and check the waterproofing.

It is best to make the floor from concrete, as this will allow the bath to dry faster and it will last much longer. Wooden panels are laid on the concrete floor; they can then be taken out to dry and you can easily go about your business.

Note!

DIY bath photo

Not everyone has the desire or ability to invest a lot of money in the construction of a bathhouse. And in most parts of our country, sometimes it’s simply necessary to warm up. The only way out is to build a sauna inexpensively, with your own hands. There are a sufficient number of building materials and technologies that can be called budget.

If we talk about the construction of full-fledged, albeit small, but free-standing baths, then frame and monolithic are considered the most budget-friendly technologies. Cheap baths are often made on a wooden frame, lined with plywood, OSB, boards - whoever has what. Insulation is placed inside between the two skins.

One of the options for a frame structure is with board cladding

In monolithic construction, the most popular for the construction of baths is arbolite - a mixture of cement and sawdust. Sawdust can be completely free or cost very little. Little cement is required in wood concrete, so this type of construction is unlikely to hit your pocket hard. Removable formwork is placed around the perimeter of the building, the mixture is loaded into it, and compacted. The next batch is mixed. It's that simple. The disadvantage of this material is considered to be flammability, but wooden and frame baths are also flammable. So this is not an argument.

Sawdust concrete or wood concrete is a warm, natural material that consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water

Polystyrene concrete (granulated foam plastic mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of “chemistry” - foam plastic - in the construction of a bathhouse. However, this material itself makes it possible to obtain a cheap and lightweight building, which, if properly finished, will only delight the owners.

All three technologies provide a combination of low price and good thermal characteristics, that is, heating such buildings requires little fuel, which in baths is the main indicator of efficiency.

There are regions where wood is still the cheapest material. It might be cheaper to put a chopped sauna in them. From round timber or from timber - this is optional. The advantage of this solution is that it is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemicals to preserve its appearance and protect against diseases and insects). But chopped saunas have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls are built and the roof is installed. We must wait until the main shrinkage has passed and only then begin insulation and finishing work. The second disadvantage is that the protective coating must be regularly updated, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But the wooden baths themselves are very good with their special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive wall construction technology is not everything. Sometimes the construction of the foundation takes almost half of the funds required for the construction of the building as a whole. The technologies listed above are good because lightweight foundations can be made for them. In some places a columnar one is sufficient, in others a pile or pile-grillage structure is sufficient. Any of the walls listed above can coexist quite normally with them, leveling out their shortcomings (possible uneven shrinkage of different support points).

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes a shallow or normal strip foundation may be required, and on particularly heaving or unstable soils a monolithic slab may be required. On such bases, to the wall construction technologies listed above, you can add more building blocks - foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (mainly, careful protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although more solid foundations are required.

Compact or temporary

If at your dacha you want to build a mini-bathhouse, a very small cabin in size, then you need to take a closer look at the construction technology or. If desired, even an ordinary construction trailer, barn or shed can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate it well and install the correct stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bathhouse step by step - photo report

The initial data is as follows: the bathhouse is no more than 4*5 meters in size, the budget is small - no more than $200-300 per month. From the initial data - clay heaving soil, 4 meters from the fence - a cliff. Having brought all this together, it was decided to build a frame bathhouse on a columnar foundation.

The bathhouse itself turned out to be 5 * 3 m, plus a terrace 1 meter wide on the long side. It was decided to make the pillars for the bathhouse from asbestos-cement pipes 34 cm in diameter, for the terrace from 15 cm. In the center of the plan, 4 more additional pillars are marked - this is the foundation for a brick oven.

We dig below the freezing depth - for this region 140 cm. By the way, we cut the pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bathhouse is 20 cm above the ground.

A frame made of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed inside each column. 4 rods are tied, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can then safely weld the harness.

The concrete was ordered ready-made, grade M250. Formwork was placed along the perimeter between the pillars and a boot was immediately poured, which will close the gap between the bathhouse floor and the ground.

A week later, the concrete had gained enough strength and work continued. A frame was welded from a 70*70 mm corner with a wall thickness of 6 mm (the corner was on the farm). To connect the pillars and metal, we weld the fittings to the corner shelves.

It must be said right away that this foundation is redundant in terms of bearing capacity. It is possible to build a two-story heavy building on it, rather than a light one-story frame. But, since they were doing it “for themselves,” and there was also a clay cliff nearby, it was decided to play it safe.

It was decided to have heated floors in the washing room and rest room - sometimes you just need to wash yourself without steaming, but doing it on a heated floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, insulation (expanded polystyrene) is laid on the subfloor, waterproofing and reinforcing mesh are placed on top, pipes are attached to it, and the whole thing is filled with concrete. Naturally, the heated floor was not poured under the stove.

Another week later, when the concrete had gained enough strength (they did not cover it, but watered it regularly), work began on constructing the frame. For the racks we used timber 150*150 mm, spacers - board 50*150 mm (again a significant margin of strength, but this was out of a desire to build a good bathhouse).

The bathhouse was built mainly alone, so a sequential installation method was chosen - the racks are placed first in the corners, then in those places where doors and windows will be installed or adjoining partitions. If as a result there are gaps of more than 1 meter somewhere, additional racks are installed. But in this case, since all the racks were made of very powerful timber, intermediate ones were not installed, and the rigidity of the structure was added by bevels.

Next, so that when laying the floor it would not drip on your head, we began making the roof of the bathhouse. It is made at the most budget level - single-slope, with a minimum rise of 15°. To ensure this slope, the beams for the racks were made in advance of different lengths.

A top trim board is nailed to the posts at one level, and ceiling beams are attached to it. Rafters with the required slope are attached to the same racks. A continuous sheathing is placed on top under the roofing material.

The rafter system of a pitched roof is very easy to manufacture

After the roof was ready, the walls were sheathed with OSB, and then the floor was laid on the remaining part of the bathhouse.

The next stage is laying the stove. This is a long process - it took a whole month. The stove is folded with a closed heater. In the chimney formation area there is a built-in cast iron box into which stones are placed. There is a door leading into the heater, which opens into the steam room.

The stove also has a built-in register that heats water for the heated floor (outlets on the side of the stove). It is not always necessary to heat the floor, therefore there are two operating modes - summer without floor heating, and winter, with “turning on” the heating of the register. Transfer from one mode to another using a valve.

Next comes the finishing work, and it will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less common is insulation. Mineral wool was used to insulate the walls and ceiling. The thickness of the layer on the walls in “cold rooms” is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling – 150 mm. The steam room is lined with foil on kraft paper on top of the insulation.

After the insulation, a vapor barrier is attached. In the rest room, the walls are covered with OSB, with cork glued on top. In the shower room, tiles are glued to OSB, the “dry” part is covered with clapboard (horizontally).

Washing area - dry area and shower

The steam room is filled first with lathing for clapboard cladding, then with wide clapboard. The steam room turned out to be quite small, and the stove also takes up a lot of space. Two can be accommodated comfortably, three are more difficult, but also quite comfortable. To regulate the number of seats in the steam room, the shelves were made retractable.

The entire construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly “in one hand.” The assistants were present only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set up the racks (they must stand 100% vertically).

Video example of building a bathhouse from monolithic wood concrete

Inexpensive 3*6 sauna with your own hands - step by step photos

The log for the future bathhouse was prepared and sanded in advance, covered from the rains and dried for about 5 months. The structure will consist of two halves: the steam room and sink are made of logs, and the relaxation room is built on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3*3 m. Construction began with markings: 6*3 in plan.

The soil is sandy, so we make it shallow. We dig a trench 60 cm deep and place the formwork. The width of the tape was taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

We make doors from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side and lining on the other. About how to do

We leave it to winter in this form - the log house should “sit down”. In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building and cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

Let's start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to do a budget ceiling lining - put short boards between the rafters. They can be bought quite inexpensively. We process it and cut it to the required length. We fill the rafters with support bars, to which we attach boards cut to size from below.

The outside of the Yuan was covered with siding - both the frame part and the frame. It turned out far from perfect. And there is a ventilation gap between the siding and the wall, so there are no problems with moisture removal.

Do-it-yourself budget sauna - another inexpensive solution - siding

We started covering the interior. We fill the sheathing and the lining on it.

The inside of the rest room was lined with clapboard

Let's move on to finishing the steam room. First we covered everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room area, separated by a glass door, and a “washing” area. In the washing room we will line the wall with moisture-resistant plasterboard, onto which we will then glue tiles, and in the steam room with clapboard.

We cover the steam room area with clapboard and

We cut an opening in the wall for installing the stove. She will drown herself from the rest room, and her “body” will be in the steam room. We lay a brick base under the stove and install it. We line the fuel outlet with fireclay bricks.

We tile the sink.

That’s it for the main work, all that’s left are the decor and all sorts of things - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the “stuffing.”

After building a house on their plot, most land owners think about building a good steam room there. In this case, the work is supposed to be done with your own hands, and the bathhouse should be built quickly, cheaply and very simply. Satisfying such criteria is not so easy, but it is still possible.

It is unlikely that you should rely on other people's designs or order overly expensive custom building plans. In most cases, a small building is required to meet the needs of a family of 2-3 people.

The foundation is the basis of everything

For most autonomous buildings with little physical load, the following types of foundations are used:

poured concrete;
support-columnar;
on pile-screw supports;
tape-block.

The simplest is the support-column base. It is used both for frame buildings and timber. This is where a cheap frame bathhouse, built with your own hands, begins.

For support, cement blocks (cinder block) with dimensions of 200x200x400 mm are used. They are mounted according to a prepared template at the corners of a conventional 2x2 m grid. Accordingly, in order to build a 12 m2 bathhouse with your own hands cheaply and step by step, as shown here, you will need approximately 9 such supports. Each of them contains 4 blocks.

Before installation, it is necessary to level the site, and laying should be carried out according to the construction hydraulic level. First you need to pour a layer of sand under the base and compact it. From this stage it is possible to envisage the installation of a weir.

When using screw piles, it is unlikely that it will be possible to reduce the final cost below the price of a strip foundation. However, for swampy areas or for soil with a high groundwater level, this solution will be appropriate. In such a situation, you can save money by installing it yourself without involving third-party specialists or equipment.

You can build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply on a strip foundation made of blocks. For a building of 12 m2, you will need an amount of 6,000 rubles, taking into account the fact that the installation is carried out independently, as well as the preparation of the solution. This will reduce costs.

For most types of foundations, it is necessary to ensure the presence of a sand cushion.

Current building materials

When building walls for a cheap bathhouse with your own hands (there is a video on the website), you can use a large number of modern materials. They have a lot of positive qualities, but the most accessible of them, and at the same time effective, are the following:

wooden beam;
wood concrete;
use of an insulated frame.

In our country, it is enough to use 100 mm thick timber for the outer walls of a bathhouse, which will be used from late spring to late autumn. During installation of the timber, it is necessary to install dowels at least every 0.9-1.0 m. For the classic size of 12 m2, it will be enough to stock up on 62 beams. Such a DIY sauna will definitely be cheaper than its larger counterparts.

Inter-crown insulation is used in the process. The total amount of these materials will be about 25...30 thousand rubles. If you buy all this from a wholesale warehouse or directly from the manufacturer, you can save money.

When building the cheapest wood concrete bathhouse with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following amount of material:

about 20 bags of cement;
a quarter or a third of a cube of sawdust;
sand 2.5-3.0 tons;
about 1 m 3 of lumber;
sufficient amount of water.

When pouring a sawdust bath, wait 2-3 days each time for the layer to harden, and only after that the formwork is rearranged. It is necessary to take into account that with this method, the maximum cost of constructing walls is unlikely to exceed 12,000-15,000 rubles.

When building walls from this material, you will need to spend a lot of time protecting them from moisture in the steam room. Increased waterproofing will protect the material from destruction by water.

Construction from wood concrete

In addition to a cheap bathhouse made of timber or wood concrete, you can build a frame structure with your own hands. At the same time, it will need to be reliably insulated. For an estimated building of 12 m2 area, you need to stock up on 3 m3 beams. You will also need to include insulation in the estimate. In the lightweight version, 10 cm thickness is enough. If basalt wool is used during construction, then the total cost of the walls will not exceed 25,000 rubles. At the same time, the advantage of this type of mineral wool is its maximum fire safety.

Floor installation

Any sauna built with your own hands, cheaply and quickly, cannot do without a reliable floor. For its installation, various paired circuits tested by many owners are used. In most cases, you have to use the double base option.

A 150 mm sand cushion is preliminarily arranged, which can be poured and compacted for better installation.
The base surface is then poured with 70-80 mm concrete.
The top layer is a mesh strip, knocked down into a rigid frame. This flooring can be moved and laid as desired.

After each visit, it is advisable to dry and ventilate the wooden frames from the floor outside the walls of the steam room.

The total cost, which includes sand, cement and slats, will be approximately 3000-4000 rubles.

Even before laying and installing the floor surface in the bathhouse, you need to drain it and drain it into a waste pit outside. To avoid odor, it is necessary to use ready-made gutters with water seals.

Working with the ceiling

When working with the ceiling, you need to adhere to certain tricks, only then will you be able to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the video. You cannot use excessively thin lining to cover the ceiling; this applies to a thickness of about 15 mm, as it quickly absorbs moisture and becomes damp. It is necessary to take boards of about 30 mm thickness, which will save on insulation.

Scheme of a quality ceiling

In the old days, a mixture of earth or clay mixed with dry leaves was used to insulate ceilings. This natural option remains in demand today, when you need to build a bathhouse with your own hands cheaply, as in the photo. Sawdust can be used instead of leaves.

For a project of 12 m2, it is enough to have 17 prepared boards with tongues to cover the entire ceiling. Before filling in the insulation, a layer of glassine must be laid on the outside.

A pitched roof will require about 0.7 m 3 of wooden beams. They are covered with two layers of roofing material, and the seams are glued with bitumen. Such a roof can last up to five years without leaking.

VIDEO: Sauna for a summer residence - very fast and very cheap

Inexpensive technologies for building baths

Polystyrene concrete (granulated foam plastic mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of “chemistry” - polystyrene foam - in the construction of a bathhouse. However, this material itself makes it possible to obtain a cheap and lightweight building, which, if properly finished, will only delight the owners.

All three technologies provide a combination of low price and good thermal characteristics, that is, heating such buildings requires little fuel, which in baths is the main indicator of efficiency.

There are regions in which wood is still the cheapest material. It might be cheaper to put a chopped sauna in them. From round timber or from timber - this is optional. The advantage of this solution is that it is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemicals to preserve its appearance and protect against diseases and insects). But chopped saunas have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls are built and the roof is installed. We must wait until the main shrinkage has passed and only then begin insulation and finishing work. The second disadvantage is that the protective coating must be regularly updated, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But the wooden baths themselves are very good with their special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes a shallow or normal strip foundation may be required, and on particularly heaving or unstable soils a monolithic slab may be required. On such grounds, you can add building blocks to the wall construction technologies listed above - foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (mainly, careful protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although more solid foundations are required.

Compact or temporary

If at your dacha you want to build a mini-sauna, a very small cabin in size, then you need to take a closer look at the technology of building a barrel sauna or a car-sauna from trailers, sauna tents, which are also called mobile or tourist. If desired, even an ordinary construction trailer, barn or shed can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate it well and install the correct stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bathhouse step by step - photo report

We dig below the freezing depth - for this region 140 cm. By the way, we cut the pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bathhouse is 20 cm above the ground.

A frame made of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed inside each column. 4 rods are tied, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can then safely weld the harness.

It was decided to have heated floors in the washing room and rest room - sometimes you just need to wash yourself, without steaming, and doing it on a heated floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, insulation (expanded polystyrene) is laid on the subfloor, waterproofing, reinforcing mesh are placed on top, pipes are attached to it, and the whole thing is filled with concrete. Naturally, the heated floor was not poured under the stove.

Next, so that when laying the floor it would not drip on your head, we began making the roof of the bathhouse. It is made in the most budget-friendly manner - single-slope, with a minimum rise of 15°. To ensure this slope, the beams for the racks were made in advance of different lengths.

The rafter system of a pitched roof is very easy to manufacture

After the roof was ready, the walls were sheathed with OSB, and then the floor was laid on the remaining part of the bathhouse.

Next comes the finishing work, and it will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less common is insulation. Mineral wool was used to insulate the walls and ceiling. The thickness of the layer on the walls in “cold rooms” is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling - 150 mm. The steam room is lined with foil on kraft paper on top of the insulation.

The entire construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly “in one hand.” The assistants were only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set up the racks (they must stand 100% vertically).

Video example of building a bathhouse from monolithic wood concrete

Inexpensive 3*6 sauna with your own hands - step by step photos

The log for the future bathhouse was prepared and sanded in advance, covered from the rains and dried for about 5 months. The structure will consist of two halves: the steam room and sink are made of logs, and the relaxation room is on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3*3 m. Construction began with markings: 6*3 in plan.

The soil is sandy, so we make a shallow strip foundation. We dig a trench 60 cm deep and place the formwork. The width of the tape was taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

The reinforcement process is not captured, but a frame of four 12 mm rods was tied together. We also ordered concrete in excess, so we had to pour not a tape, but a slab with a tape.

After 10 days they started assembling the log house - it is 3*3, so 6 meter logs go without any leftovers. First, they laid the waterproofing: two layers of roofing felt. Above is the first crown. It is assembled from 200*200 mm timber.

To avoid blowing, we dovetail the corners.

And although we “cut” the corners with a chainsaw, we process the logs with a carpenter’s, even grandfather’s, axe. We work on the recesses carefully so that they fit tightly and do not blow.

On the washing side, we do not trim the sides of the logs, leaving them rounded. Then we sand them and varnish them. It will be beautiful. But in the corners, in order to connect the two types of profile, we still process it, then cut out the dovetail.

We build the frame of the steam room crown by crown.

When the height of the walls is equal to the design one - 2.5 meters, we begin to assemble the frame of the second part, where the rest room will be located.

First, we set up the racks (beam 200*200 mm), fix them with temporary bevels, then nail them in with long nails - three on each side at an angle. For reliability, we strengthen the connection with mounting angles.

Then we install the intermediate racks, the step in our case was established as it will be - a distance of 70-75 cm. But when laying the insulation (mineral wool mats) it was very inconvenient: we had to cut thin strips and fiddle with them for a long time - they all tend to fall, but stand must be tight to keep it warm. Now we know for sure that the racks must be installed so that the gap between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there are no problems when installing it.

When the top trim was assembled, the entire frame part stood rigidly. The beams that were adjacent to the frame hold the logs, you can cut out the doorway.

After securing the rafter legs, we stuff the sheathing. We use corrugated sheets for the roof, so we need a sparse, but normal-width board.

To prevent all the heat from being carried away when the door is opened in winter, we add a vestibule. They placed bricks under the post beams, but it would have been better to fill the pillars - the soil under the bricks sank and was washed away by water.

The most difficult thing about an extension is to get the roof right. We calculated the height of the rafter so that it would fit exactly on one of the sheathing boards. Then everything lines up easily.

We install a profiled sheet on the sheathing. Everything is simple, but the main point is the valley (the junction of the vestibule). To prevent water from flowing into the attic, metal trays are placed under the sheets.

How to make a valley at the junction

We cover the frame part with OSB and cover it with film to protect it from precipitation. You can go inside.

After the cladding, we install the windows. They are small, with the possibility of ventilation. Read about the size and location of windows in a Russian bath here.

We make doors from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side and lining on the other. Read about how to make bathhouse doors with your own hands here.

We leave it to winter in this form - the log house should “sit down”. In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building and cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

Let's start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to do a budget-friendly ceiling lining - install short boards between the rafters. They can be bought quite inexpensively. We process it and cut it to the required length. We fill the rafters with support bars, to which we attach boards cut to size from below.

The outside of the yuan was covered with siding - both the frame part and the frame. It turned out far from perfect. And there is a ventilation gap between the siding and the wall, so there are no problems with moisture removal.

Do-it-yourself budget sauna - another inexpensive solution - siding

We started covering the interior. We fill the sheathing and the lining on it. Read how to nail the lining here.

The inside of the rest room was lined with clapboard

Let's move on to finishing the steam room. First we covered everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room area, separated by a glass door, and a “washing” area. In the washing room we will line the walls with moisture-resistant plasterboard, onto which we will then glue tiles, and in the steam room with clapboard.

We tile the sink.

That's it for the main work, all that's left are the decor and all sorts of things - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the "stuffing".

For a Russian person, a bathhouse is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that the love for a bath broom and good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages next to rickety dilapidated huts, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I, during his trip to France, could not stand being without his family for even two days, urgently ordering the construction of a Russian bathhouse right on the banks of a foreign river, which shocked the natives quite a bit. But what to do if building today is so expensive, and public steam rooms are not to everyone’s liking? And if relaxing in a steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the cunning tricks of modern Russian masters who manage to build their steam rooms literally for vacation pay.

So, let's look at the most successful bathhouse construction projects and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not lose the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budget-friendly bathhouse is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.

6 Mini-baths: cheap and cheerful
- 6.1 Barrel sauna
- 6.2 Camping sauna
- 6.3 Built-in mini-sauna
- 6.4 Baths in cars

What can and cannot be saved on when building a bathhouse?

Agree, no savings are worth the loss of health, property or life. But the saddest situations occur when the issue of cheapness is approached thoughtlessly: such baths first slowly poison their owners by releasing hazardous substances, and then either burn or quickly deteriorate. But this does not mean that it is better to give up and give all your money to the construction team - it is better to simply refuse dangerous use during construction from the very beginning:

Uncertified materials and fakes, for which unscrupulous sellers charge much less. And at the same time they convince the buyer that “there is no difference with expensive material, there is simply no markup for the brand, my brother/in-law/son-in-law has had a bathhouse with this for half a century, and nothing.”
Materials that are strictly not intended for the construction and finishing of baths. So, if you can’t insulate the walls in a sauna with polystyrene foam, then it’s impossible, and this is not the whim of the manufacturer. Again, a neighbor who insulated in this way at his own risk and is now bragging is not an example.
Unsuitable components for conducting electricity in the bathhouse (wires, sockets), unprotected lamps or cheap Chinese products.
Homemade stoves and water heaters that no one has tested for fire safety.
Combustible materials and those that do not indicate that they can be used in conditions of high air humidity and heat.

If you are building a bathhouse with your own hands and are forced to save as much as possible on materials, carefully calculate each step, consult with specialists and do not leave anything unattended “it seems to work.” And finally, if you have a limited budget, it’s better to save on cubic meters of steam room, but not on its finishing materials. This is the advice.

Let's take a little look at affordable insulation materials. So, basalt wool is made from stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are not connected chemically, but by another technology, and therefore, even when placed behind the foil in the steam room, hazardous substances will not be released. This insulation is non-flammable and insulates the firebox well. For a bath - the best option. If you want to save money, then put one layer of basalt wool and a couple of layers of another, cheaper material on the ceiling.

Penofol - porous propylene with polyethylene film and foil coating - is also used as an economical option. You can purchase it in roll form and attach it directly to a bare wall. This material is a good heat bridge between the wall itself and the insulation.

Buy a stove without a remote firebox - this way it will take much less firewood to heat the steam room, and such a unit is inexpensive.
Be sure to install a water tank on the chimney pipe - this is the fastest and most economical way.
Make a cheap, removable foundation for the bathhouse: it is much cheaper and easier to carry out repair work later and replace it with another one.
Pay maximum attention to the insulation of the bathhouse - the less you “heat the street”, the more economical the heating itself will be.
Place packaging film with bubbles on the window in the rest room in winter - this will retain heat by at least 50%.
Instead of a regular shower or shower stall, install a traditional Russian tub. And it’s healthier, by the way. And it is not at all necessary to pour only ice water into it.
When purchasing lining, take short-sized bars - they are cheaper and look no worse.
Build a low roof for the bathhouse, no more than a width-to-height ratio of 1:3. Such a design will require much less materials, and the chimney will also not need to be made high.

Project #1 - compact bathhouse at a minimum cost

So, step by step process:

Step 1 - foundation. We will make the foundation columnar. To do this, you will need to get a 2-meter auger. As a casing pipe, take ordinary cheap sewer pipes of 110 mm. Insert the reinforcement from two connected rods.
Step 2 - strapping. Place 500 mm long pins under the harness. Assemble the 150x150 frame and prepare the frame posts with a height of 2200 mm. Treat the frame with Neomid 440 or any other suitable for the same purposes.
Step 3 - walls. You can modify the walls directly on the frame and simply raise them. We sheath the DSP. To do this, we pre-drill the plates and then fasten them with self-tapping screws with a semicircular head.
Step 4 - roof. The roof is covered with eight-wave slate. We're saving money!
Step 5 - insulation. Now we put in any inexpensive insulation that is suitable for a bathhouse. In this project - Linerock Light.
Step 6 - bake. We install an inexpensive stove, or a homemade one. But under any one, we must additionally lay out a brick corner.
Step 7 - finishing. We fasten the lining, skirting boards, casings.

So your compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.

If the walls, due to savings, are not too strong, then the smaller the bathhouse in volume, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.

Project #2 - wood concrete is used

And here is a good example of building a budget bathhouse from wood concrete - the price is not much more expensive than frame technology. So, the outer walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, and inside there will be a brick partition from the stove.

Here's what the construction process looks like:

Step 1. We dig a drainage hole with dimensions of 1.2 x 1.8 x 1.4 m. We fill up the OPGS with stones on both sides, make formwork, and fill it.

Step 2. We dig a foundation 30 cm wide and up to 50 cm deep. We fill it with sand and tamp it.
Step 3. We put up the formwork, reinforce two rods at the top and bottom. We place vertical rods every meter. We pour the foundation.
Step 4. We lay EPS, mesh in the washing and steam room and fill the floors. In the washing room we additionally organize drainage.
Step 5. Lay the blocks, check the evenness of the walls with a level.
Step 6. We make the roof using 50x100 boards. The optimal distance between the rafters is 55-80 cm. Cover.
Step 7. Cook the oven or buy a budget ready-made one. The ventilation scheme is suitable as follows: outside air goes to the gap between the stove and the brick wall, where it heats up.
Step 8. Install the shower tank in the attic.
Step 9. Finish the walls from the inside. If possible, use Izospan FB - a material special for baths, plus heat-resistant tape. Izolon is good for ceilings, as it can withstand temperatures up to 150°C.

This is such a budget-friendly and quite successful bathhouse.

When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: according to its density, it can be thermal insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg/m, the second - 500-850 kg/m. This material is used for the construction of self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.

Project #3 - miniature bathhouse made of timber in the national style

And if you can’t imagine a Russian steam room made of another material, like timber, you can build this relatively budget option.

Step 1. We level the area for the foundation from the screenings, knock together the “formwork” and leave only an opening for draining water from the washing room.
Step 2. Lay out the EPS and knit the reinforcement cage. We fill it with concrete, make a water ramp and the foundation is ready.
Step 3. Lay the frame. Under the first crown we place a board treated with an antiseptic, which we cover with roofing felt on three sides. You can put moss on the board itself - it has antiseptic properties, and therefore the crown of the bath will last even longer.
Step 4. We build the walls and leave it like that for several months for shrinkage.
Step 5. Attach the rafters and cover the roof. We make a pipe passage through the ceiling - it can be easily made from a metal angle and a stainless steel sheet.
Step 6. We make a frame partition between the steam room and the dressing room, insulate it with mineral wool and cover it with clapboard on both sides.
Step 7. Lay out the floor in front of the stove with porcelain tiles. We leave a special hole in the floor for fresh ventilation.
Step 8. We lead the pipe from the stove through the roof. We make the passage from Master-flash rubber, which is resistant to temperature. The joint with the roofing is sealed with MS polymer.
Step 9. We attach the shelves in the steam room and conduct electricity.

Remember: the first step to huge savings when building your own sauna is to build it yourself!

Project #4 - steam room on a light frame made from improvised materials

The beams for the bathhouse frame can even be made from collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is to choose one without defects and knots, and be sure to treat it with an antiseptic.

So, let’s build a budget sauna from improvised means:

Step 1. We make beams for the frame, process and dry.
Step 2. We build a pile-rubble foundation: we dig up a meter of soil with a drill, put thick pine stakes there and make a backfill of concrete and stones on top. Next, fill the pillars to the top.
Step 4. Assembling the frame.
Step 5. We dig a hole for the drain, insert a barrel with broken bricks and crushed stone inside, and put a drain there. This is a non-insulated summer option, but for winter you can lay insulation or a heating cable.
Step 6. We insulate the floor and ceiling, put a film on top of the insulation. We use Finnish foil paper for saunas on the walls and ceiling.
Step 7. Put on the oven. Take it with a register, because... you need to heat the water for washing - so as not to purchase a boiler separately. Thus, the Vulcan stove has proven itself well - it is inexpensive and heats well.

Such a bathhouse lasts a surprisingly long time, the steam makes you happy, and spending time in it is a pleasure. And you can always find disadvantages.

Mini-baths: cheap and cheerful

But if you don’t have the funds to build a steam room at all, you shouldn’t despair - today there are many options for building a steam room literally out of nothing. Let's take a closer look.

Barrel sauna

This is the most ordinary wooden barrel, only of a more substantial size. Part of it is covered by a wooden lattice screen, behind which the stove is hidden. There is a small bench in front of the screen. Even three people can steam in such a bathhouse at the same time. But this option is only for summer: they rolled it out onto the site, placed it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option, it’s nothing at all.

Camping sauna

Such a bathhouse is mainly taken on camping trips, but if there is no other alternative, it can also be used on the site. Such a steam room will be inexpensive, because it is an ordinary tent in which a stove or an electric steam generator is placed. This is no longer the same soft Russian bathhouse, but as a temporary phenomenon it also has a right to exist.

Built-in mini-sauna

A fashion has also appeared to make bath-saunas right in a city apartment, in the bathroom. So, we move the washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something similar to a cabinet. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of a frame and covered with clapboard. Inside there is one shelf for a seat and a built-in steam generator. The person sits down, closes the door, and turns on the device. But his head remains outside for safety's sake. Using special aromatic oils and other SPA elements is quite a good way to improve your health. We can say that this is the smallest and cheapest bathhouse in the world.

Baths in the car

If you have the opportunity to get hold of a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can build a small bathhouse right in it. Our website even has detailed master classes on how to do this, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room by pouring the foundation. Experiment!

Cheap DIY sauna: construction technology

A bathhouse is one of the most necessary buildings in a country house or private area. Like any other construction process, the construction of a bathhouse requires the investment of a considerable amount of finance, from the purchase of materials to payment for the services of builders, which does not always happen on time.

In this case, it makes sense to pay attention to less expensive projects that are designed to use resources as economically as possible.

Despite the fact that inexpensive baths have a less durable structure, with high-quality assembly and proper care it can last you quite a long time. Of course, the service life of the erected structure will in any case be inferior to the standard technology - the lightweight structure of the material will have an effect, but given its reduced cost, the difference will be completely justified.

This article will provide you with step-by-step instructions on how to build an inexpensive bathhouse with your own hands. It will describe in detail the process of constructing a structure “from scratch”, which will allow you to carry out this activity absolutely independently.

Construction of a bathhouse

As experience shows, the cheapest baths have a frame structure, since they have a lightweight base, the costs of their construction are not so high. Exposure to humidity and elevated temperatures requires additional waterproofing of the frame and cladding, but even in this case the structure will cost you an order of magnitude cheaper than its monolithic counterparts.

Foundation

The foundation for a frame bath is most often built on piles, as this allows for significant savings in material - pouring a strip foundation in this case will be a waste of money, since its strength potential is practically not used due to the relatively low weight of the structure.

Concrete pillars are mainly used to form a pile foundation.

In accordance with the project, the perimeter of the future building with all internal partitions is marked, after which the location of the load-bearing piles is noted. The distance between the piles should not exceed 2 m, while under each intersection of the walls it is necessary to place an additional pillar, since this place creates increased pressure on the foundation;

A well with a diameter of at least 25 cm is dug under each pile, the depth of which must be at least 1.5 meters. Half of the well is filled with coarse sand, which must be filled with water and compacted while filling the well;
After backfilling, an asbestos-cement pipe of the appropriate diameter is immersed in the well, into which a reinforcing frame made of reinforcement is inserted and concrete solution is poured. It is important to arrange the pipes so that the top edges of all piles are at the same level;

After the piles are completely dry, a metal or wooden grillage is installed on them, which will connect all the pillars into one and serve as the basis for the future structure;

Frame

The basis of the building is a wooden frame made of timber, which must be well dried and impregnated with a waterproofing compound.

The material for the racks is timber with a thickness of 100x100 mm.

Note!
In some cases, it is permissible to use timber with a smaller cross-section, but this is only permissible after a professional calculation of the strength potential of the future structure.

It is mandatory to have load-bearing frame elements at the corners of the building. Intermediate racks are located based on the width of the sheathing material and insulation, but the distance between them should not exceed 1 m. A board or timber is used as a frame at the base, through which the supporting pillars are combined into a single whole. The same strapping is carried out on the top of the load-bearing elements;

After the main and intermediate parts take a vertical position, the structure is strengthened by means of jumpers between the pillars, which also act as sheathing. Then the roof is assembled onto the frame - most often a truss structure is used;

External skin

It is best to use DSP or OSB sheets as the material for the external cladding of the bathhouse, since they belong to the category of particularly durable and moisture-resistant materials. Sheathing made from these materials will last you as long as possible.

They are screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws, and the joints must be sealed using polyurethane foam or other suitable sealants.

Note!
The use of materials such as plywood and similar materials based on natural wood is also acceptable, but in this case care must be taken to protect the coating from moisture.

Insulation of walls and roof

To create the proper level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to carefully insulate the space between the outer and inner cladding. The materials most often used as insulation are mineral wool, synthetic boards (polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, etc.) and natural-based insulation materials (jute, reed boards, etc.).

Regardless of what type of insulation you use, it is important to securely fix it in the cavity intended for it and prevent the formation of gaps between individual sheets, which will later turn into “cold bridges.”

After the insulation is completely fixed, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier on the inside of the building, which is best used as glassine.

On one side it has a heat-insulating layer, and the other side is covered with metal foil, which also effectively reflects heat. Glassine must be installed with foil inside the room.

If possible, the interior of the room is sheathed with environmentally friendly products - wooden paneling, FBA spruce plywood, etc., since some synthetic materials can emit toxic fumes when heated.

Internal lining with plastic lining is considered acceptable, but it is up to you to decide whether to use products of this type. Before covering the ceiling of the bathhouse, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier, as in the previous case.

It is best to make pourable floors in a frame bathhouse, as this is facilitated by the raised structure. Ordinary wooden floors quickly degrade under constant exposure to moisture.

Bottom line

Inexpensive frame baths are an ideal solution for a small family budget. In addition to the described project, you can also use inexpensive metal bathhouse stoves for the interior, which will allow you to minimize the cost of equipping the functionality of the bathhouse. You can familiarize yourself with the information presented in more detail through the video in this article.

Do-it-yourself budget sauna: how to build it cheaply?

And you want to build a bathhouse but your finances don’t allow it – is this a familiar situation? Patience is worse than bondage. Russian people are very creative, so everyone who plans to install a bathhouse on their property tries to save money in every possible way. What comes out of this and how to really reduce the budget?

Mobile structures

First, let us highlight the desire of all manufacturers to introduce a variety of cheaper bath options. Keeping abreast of the problem, the consumer is offered to purchase mobile structures. The set of such a bathhouse consists of a tent, a stove and a bag. There are lighter options. They do not have ovens, and the temperature is increased by a portable steam generator.

You can install such a structure on any site, and two adults can do it. Depending on the type of mobile sauna, from 3 to 7 people can steam in it. Again, it all depends on your budget. The temperature created inside is acceptable for carrying out procedures – 90°C. When folded, it does not take up much space; it can be transported from one site to another in a small car trailer. After the procedures, the structure must be washed and dried.

Bathhouse-dugout

Moving away from the purchased option, we can recommend the optimal price-quality ratio in the form of a dugout bathhouse. Such structures are built, or more precisely, swarmed on their own. Hence the first point of saving. The work of hired craftsmen is assessed not in favor of the bathhouse owner.

The second point of savings can be considered an independent basis. That is, a foundation for a dugout bathhouse is not needed. The third point will be to reduce costs for wall materials. The disadvantage is the difficulty of preparing the pit.

Even one person can build such a bathhouse, but in this case the work will drag on for months. Bringing in equipment will speed up the process, but will affect the pricing policy. If time constraints do not bother you, then this option is the most profitable. Unlike a mobile structure, a dugout bathhouse will have a permanent registration, so its location must be decided in advance.

What is cheaper to build from?

There are many options for constructing and purchasing inexpensive bathhouses. But still, without departing from tradition, we need to talk more specifically about options for reducing the costs of constructing capital structures. Everyone wants a full-fledged bathhouse on their site, to which they are not ashamed to invite friends on their day off.

There is only one way out of this situation - to build a bathhouse that meets all modern requirements and introduce all kinds of economic solutions, of which there are plenty on the construction market today.

Save on wall materials

The most inexpensive is a sauna made of timber. Choosing this material for laying a log house allows you not only to carry out all the processes yourself, but also to vary the price. For example, if you use the sauna only in the summer months, the savings will increase due to the reduction in the cost of purchasing timber. A log house made of logs with a cross-section of 100 mm will be sufficient.

For a bathhouse of a budget size of 12 m/2, you will need approximately 65–70 bars. Plus - inexpensive insulation in the form of tow. You can even refuse finishing by first cleaning the surface of the wood. The most economical option for building a bathhouse.

Arbolit

Home craftsmen offer to save money by using this material. To work on the construction of a small bathhouse, you will need the following:

20 bags of cement;
sawdust;
sand about 3 tons;
lumber

In addition, you will need a lot of water. The bathhouse is built using monolithic technology or pre-fabricated blocks of various sizes. In the first option, the formwork is assembled, all the ingredients are mixed and poured into it. In the second, masonry is carried out using the technology of assembling bathhouse walls from foam blocks or bricks.

In the language of builders, this is a bathhouse made of sawdust concrete. This is what is called wood concrete in the construction environment. This is a reliable material with a high degree of heat resistance.

The construction process itself causes some inconvenience. When pouring walls by collecting formwork, you have to wait 3–4 days. Time intervals are necessary for the layer to harden. Saves costs, low material cost.

Insulated frame

Another budget option for building a bathhouse. A small structure will require approximately 3 cubic meters. lumber, plus an insulating layer. You won’t be able to get away with inexpensive tow or jute, but the costs are still low.

A frame bathhouse for summer use is assembled with a wall thickness of only 10 cm. The insulator plays the main role in containing heat. These are ecowool or mineral fiber panels.

The proposed options for saving on the construction of a bathhouse were considered in the summer version. When planning a capital structure in which procedures will be carried out all year round, you will have to spend a lot of money, at least on the same insulation of the walls of the bathhouse from the inside. Costs for the base and roofing structure will increase.

Making an inexpensive floor

Savings will really appear if restrictive measures are observed at all stages, but not to the detriment of the internal microclimate. In this regard, when laying the floor, there are also certain tips and craftsmen suggest resorting to a double structure.

The base is poured concrete, no more than 7 cm thick. A 15–20 cm layer of river sand must be laid underneath it. After the concrete has hardened, a removable panel of boards is constructed. In everyday life, craftsmen call this option a leaky floor. The panels can always be removed and taken outside for ventilation.

We save on the ceiling structure

Remembering the law of physics from the school curriculum that hot air rises, you should not skimp on the ceiling. Up to 70% of the steam escapes through it, but still, there are some tricks.

Craftsmen suggest saving money by using natural materials for insulation. At the beginning of the first century, dry leaves mixed with soil were the only way out of this situation. Time and experience, coming over the years, have made it possible to move away from such compositions and today, other mixtures can be used to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse.

Sawdust or expanded clay are an excellent option. Using them you can make inexpensive but high-quality backfill. In this case, you cannot save on vapor barrier and it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. This recommendation must be especially observed when choosing sawdust backfill. Expanded clay is more resistant to moisture, but still, it should not be allowed to circulate through the ceiling.

Windows and doors - we do it ourselves

In a small bathhouse, you don’t have to install windows at all. Ventilation vents will be sufficient for ventilation. But you will need at least two doors: the entrance door and the one separating the dressing room from the steam room.

You can make the door yourself. Given the small size, one canvas will require 5 tongue-and-groove boards and two timbers. It is not necessary to insulate the door to the steam room; this must be done with the entrance structure.

Inexpensive roofing system

The most inexpensive in this regard will be a lean-to structure. For assembly you will need a minimum of lumber and the same amount of insulation and roofing sheet. Regardless of which roofing structure is chosen for the bathhouse, in order to save it, it is better to cover it with roofing felt or other materials derived from it. Slate is not very expensive today either.

Room layout

This item makes a big contribution to reducing the cost of building a bathhouse. Avoiding planning multiple rooms will help reduce costs. The classic version, where the steam room is combined with a washing compartment, is the most effective way to build a budget bath.

All the extra partitions only increase the price. It is necessary to purchase additional material, plan their location, and in some cases, lay a base specifically for them.

In the fight against cost cutting, any weapon is acceptable, as long as you use it correctly. All options for building a budget bathhouse must be carried out carefully, analyzing the materials used and methods of saving. Actions aimed at reducing costs should not affect comfort.

The process of building cheap bathhouses for a summer residence

The construction of cheap baths is relevant for summer cottages and garden plots, where the owners visit and do not live permanently. What is needed for construction?

Choosing a project and location for construction

In order to build a small bathhouse in the country, you do not need special knowledge or construction experience. The ability to hold a hammer and know how to use a level is enough.

To build a bathhouse cheaply, you can use a ready-made standard project. There are a great many of them, they have been tested in practice more than once. Therefore, there is no need to philosophize; besides, with a limited budget, a bathhouse for a summer residence should be simple.

Traditionally, bathhouses with steam rooms look rectangular in plan. The generally accepted sizes are the following:

length – 5 – 6 m;
width – 3 – 4 m;
height – 2 – 2.2 m.

Dimensions, especially ceiling heights, are chosen individually, taking into account how many people will wash at the same time and what their average height is. The length of the steam room is based on the average height of the owners so that the sun loungers are comfortable. And in the locker room there should be at least 1 square meter of free space per person. This will allow you to feel comfortable and take off or put on clothes without interference.

A cheap bathhouse in a summer cottage can do without a separate shower room. In order to wash yourself, an ordinary basin is quite enough. In addition, many summer residents prefer to install portable showers, which are enough to wash off after a hot day at work.

As a result, the project of an inexpensive bathhouse provides only 2-3 rooms:

steam room;
wash/rest room;
locker room (dressing room).

Considering that in the summer it is much more pleasant to sit in the fresh air at the dacha than indoors, you can also refuse the rest room.

Advice from the master!

Materials: what you shouldn’t skimp on

What to build a bathhouse from and what materials to use?

Traditionally, wood or brick, less often cinder block, is chosen for the construction of baths.

These materials are classified as inexpensive, their range is quite large.

But even if they manage to find cheap wooden beams or bricks, builders will have to spend money on the following materials:

special impregnation for wood;
insulation;
waterproofing;
vapor barrier.

These bath materials are extremely important. They will not allow heat loss and will protect the structure from moisture and insects.

Masters recommend insulating the walls, floor and ceiling of the bath without fail. Mineral wool is perfect for this. It is inexpensive and durable, not susceptible to rotting or fungus, and is not damaged by insects.

Around the steam room, in addition to insulation, it is recommended to attach foil heat reflectors, for example, penofol. They act as a barrier to heat and will allow you to heat the bathhouse faster and maintain a high temperature in it for longer. And this, in turn, will make it possible to save on fuel.

Hydro- and vapor barrier is also needed for baths. It will retain moisture so that it does not have a destructive effect on the structure.

Advice from the master!

Manufacturers have established the production of inexpensive and high-quality materials. But when making a choice, you should not chase too low prices. Otherwise, the construction of an inexpensive bathhouse will end in failure: the insulation will rot, and the steam room will only be able to work normally in the summer heat.

How can you reduce the cost of a project?

Experts advise using simple tricks during the construction process that will allow you to spend less money on the subsequent operation of the bathhouse. So, it is better to abandon the capital foundation and put the structure on poles. This will reduce the cost of construction, and if necessary, it will be easier to carry out repairs.

According to the experts, a steam room stove should not have an external firebox. This will reduce the time it takes to warm up the steam room. It is best to place the water container right next to the chimney. Hot air will warm it up perfectly, which will also save money.

The sauna windows can be sealed with packaging film (with pimples). It will reduce heat loss through glass by half. And this is also a saving, as a result of which the dacha owner will have a cheaply built bathhouse with his own hands.

Construction from start to finish

So, how to build a sauna with your own hands?

Any construction begins with a foundation. In our project for an inexpensive wooden bathhouse, it is recommended to place it on supports. These can be concrete pillars or supports made of cinder blocks. The depth of the foundation is 50 cm. At the same stage, communications, water supply and drainage into the pit are laid.

Then the subfloor is laid and the construction of walls begins. The cheapest way to build baths is to install a frame and cover it with clapboards or cement particle boards. After this, the rough ceiling is laid and the roof is built. To cover it, you can use cheap slate, which will reliably protect the room from rain and snow.

Inside the bathhouse, finishing also proceeds step by step. First, the floor is insulated: a layer of insulation, waterproofing, and a finished floor on top. The stove is placed on a brick foundation. Insulation of the walls is carried out in a similar way; a foil heat reflector is attached around the steam room. After this, finishing is carried out.

The ceiling of wooden baths is first covered with vapor barrier materials, then insulated with mineral wool, on top of which a layer of waterproofing is placed. In a cheap project, the roof of the bathhouse does not need to be insulated.

Advice from the master!

If the walls of the baths are built from brick or cinder block, then the process is almost identical. Only the foundation should be made classic, with a sand cushion (20 cm thick). Its height above the ground is 50 cm, and the concrete should be reinforced so that it does not collapse.

How much does it cost to build a sauna with your own hands: counting and comparing

Building a bathhouse with your own hands is always cheaper than ordering work from specialists.

After building their home, almost every owner thinks about a bathhouse. It’s cheaper to build a bathhouse with your own hands, so you don’t have to pay for the work. And a bathhouse assembled with your own hands will be of high quality, since it was built for yourself. But before installation, everyone wonders how much it costs to build a bathhouse with your own hands? It is difficult to answer this question, since a number of factors, construction features and materials must be taken into account. We will tell our readers how much it will cost to build a bathhouse yourself and how to perform the calculations.

Why is it more profitable to build with your own hands?

A turnkey bathhouse sheathed on the outside with a block house.

Not everyone decides to build a bathhouse with their own hands. This is influenced by a number of factors: lack of experience, inability to handle the tool, ignorance of assembly features, lack of free time. In this case, it is easier to order a turnkey bathhouse from a construction company.

The cost of a turnkey bath per m² of various materials is shown in the table:

*Prices are average for 2015 and may vary depending on the region and quality of the material.

A turnkey bathhouse made of timber from the inside does not require additional finishing.

Of course, a turnkey bathhouse will be built quickly, but the quality of construction must be constantly monitored. If this is not done, then no one will guarantee that the hired team will work conscientiously. After the construction of the bathhouse, the owner will face many unpleasant surprises, and additional costs are not taken into account at all in the estimate. So it turns out that in any case you will have to lose some of your time. And if you calculate how much a small bathhouse of 12 m² made of timber + additional insulation and finishing will cost, the amount will be at least 300 thousand rubles. This is an unaffordable amount for the average family, where a bathhouse is built on a garden plot.

It’s easier to build a bathhouse with your own hands, since 40-50% of the total turnkey estimate goes to pay for the work. And after reading the relevant recommendations from experts and watching a number of thematic videos, of which there are many on our website, you can complete all the work yourself without having the skill. And for some work. for example, wiring the electrical system and communications, hire separate workers. It will cost less.

Planning and budgeting

It is important that the plan includes an estimate. This way you can avoid unnecessary expenses and provide the necessary amount for the material. A properly drawn up estimate should include the following items:

Bathhouse design (price for drawing up an individual project or purchasing a ready-made standard one). Here it is more profitable to buy a ready-made, proven bathhouse project. It has already been built and it has been tested in practice. You should not draw up a project using computer programs, since all the little things will not be taken into account: landscape, material features, placement of communications on the site.
Foundation installation. (Price of the material.) It is cheaper not to purchase ready-made concrete but to make it yourself. You can rent a concrete mixer at specialized rentals or buy your own. Its price starts from 15,000 rubles, and the savings will be from 30,000 rubles.
Assembly of a log house (Price for materials: timber, logs, bricks, etc.). The most economical option is to build a frame bathhouse and decorate it with imitation timber; externally, the structure will be little distinguishable from a solid one made of wood, and the price will be 2-3 times lower.
Floors (Price of wood for floors) It is more economical to make floors from spliced boards.
Installation of the furnace (Costs for the purchase of material or finished furnace + foundation for it). It’s cheaper to weld a stove with your own hands from old rims from a truck.
Roofing (Price for material and rafter system). The most inexpensive roof is considered to be a pitched roof covered with roofing material or slate.
Finishing. (price for vapor barrier, waterproofing, insulation + lining + material for exterior finishing).
Fastening and connecting elements.
Additional expenses.

Before building a bathhouse from timber, it is necessary to calculate the material.

Not everyone takes into account the “Additional costs” item, but it is very important. The final cost of the bath depends on it. It includes all additional elements in the baths and the costs of delivery and unloading of materials.

So, for a budget building with a 3x2 m project, fewer additional costs are needed than for the same one but with a swimming pool or with the installation of a font. Additional expenses should also include: technology and equipment for the bathhouse, a heated floor heating system, tools for work (hammers, saws, planes, grinders, etc.). If you rent equipment or use borrowed equipment, this item will be significantly reduced.

Design price

To create an individual project costs from 30,000 rubles. You can save money by contacting the government. employees or students of architectural universities. They will be happy to develop a project for a price starting from 5,000 rubles. You can save up to 80% of costs.

You can download a standard project on the Internet, then the costs will only be for traffic and ink in the printer. But not all standard projects have been verified, since most of them were compiled by non-professionals using special computer programs.

Choosing material

The easiest way to build a bathhouse with your own hands is from timber.

To build a bathhouse, purchase material for the roof box and foundation. It is more profitable to purchase bulk materials not in bags from construction stores, but through advertisements by machine.

The box is assembled from a material that is affordable. If a tree has been chosen, then before you buy it is necessary to go through several manufacturers. Various sawmills offer grades A, B, BC, and C. But there are no specific criteria by which wood is divided into grades, and you can find C quality, which at another sawmill will be sold at the price of B or BC. For a high-quality bath, it is better to use chamber-dried wood. And it’s easier to build with your own hands from profiled or laminated timber. It is easily assembled using tongue-and-groove locks and the bathhouse will turn out to be even and regular in shape.

Traditionally, hardwood is used to build a log bathhouse. But suitable aspen and linden are expensive. You can save money and assemble the walls from pine or aspen, but finish everything inside with linden or aspen lining. The price will be 50-60% lower.

Communication costs

To lay communications it is necessary to dig a trench under the drain and pipes.

Communication in bathhouses is not a cheap pleasure. The electrical system and water are carried out according to a pre-drawn up plan. You can make and calculate this yourself, but it is better to turn to professionals. You should not skimp on materials for electrical wiring, as this can be life-threatening.

With the drainage and sewerage system everything is much simpler. You can do it yourself, and maintenance must be carried out every six months. It will be necessary to dig trenches and a cesspool; for this it is better to hire a tractor. The price for services in different cities differs slightly, from 500 rubles per hour. It takes at least 2 hours to complete all planned work.

You can connect the bathhouse to the general sewerage system, but a separate septic tank is installed on the site. This way you will have to service it less often.

It is not necessary to install a heating system into the bathhouse. But if the bathhouse is large and is intended as a company holiday. Then you need to hang a separate boiler and install a pipe system. The cheapest option is considered to be a solid fuel boiler, which will significantly reduce the figures on your electricity or gas bills.

Finishing materials and insulation

It is more profitable to decorate the outside of the bathhouse with siding; it will last a long time and is not afraid of any external influences.

You shouldn’t skimp on insulation, vapor barriers and waterproofing for baths. The heating costs and heating time of the bath depend on the quality of these materials. High-quality finishing will serve the owners for a long time and they will have to invest less in repairs.

It is better to take linden or aspen lining for interior decoration. You can use abacus or oak, but they are more expensive. Here it is also important to pay attention to grade. The lining should not have darkened or rotten areas, wormholes or dark knots. Since the bath is associated with the use of water, the higher quality the material, the longer it will last.

It is important what antiseptics the elements will be treated with. The most inexpensive option is Senezh sauna, but you can take special compounds from Tikkuril or other major manufacturers. You should not treat elements with waste machine oil; the “old-fashioned methods” are unacceptable for a bathhouse.

Swimming pool in a bathhouse - to be or not to be?

A swimming pool in a bathhouse is considered an element of luxury and is expensive.

A swimming pool in a bathhouse on a garden plot does not need to be planned in advance. The most inexpensive option is to install a small frame next to the bathhouse, at a price of 10,000 rubles. In a bathhouse that is used all year round, the pool is planned in advance, since space is needed for it.

The price of materials for pool installation ranges from 10,000 to 55,000 rubles/m². Depends on the type and complexity of the design. This does not take into account finishing, so simple ceramic tiles will cost from 250 rubles/m². The pleasure is not cheap. It’s easier to buy a ready-made wooden font, which costs from 25,000 rubles, depending on the volume. If you make a font with your own hands, the price will be generally insignificant.

In addition to all of the above, the pool needs to be maintained and this takes a lot of effort and time. And hiring specialists is expensive.

From all that has been said, we can conclude: there will be a swimming pool in the baths if the owners are ready for large expenses.

Is the result always true?

The final calculation and actual costs may vary, so it is always necessary to leave a small amount of NZ.

When making an estimate, you need to be prepared for the fact that real costs will not always correspond to the final figure. Of course, if you don’t deviate from the plan and purchase material at a price no higher than planned, then you can meet it. Therefore, before construction, it is necessary to add 15-20% to the principal amount for unforeseen expenses.

In any case, the price of building a bathhouse with your own hands is significantly lower than turnkey construction. You can purchase a ready-made log house kit; it costs a little more than the material, but it will be easier to assemble it yourself. In addition, you will not have to overpay for the plan, since the log house for assembly has already been cut according to the standard plan.

You must immediately enlist the support of friends and relatives, since it is difficult to lay any material alone. It is convenient to lay even brick or gas blocks alone only on the lower rows.

The help of relatives and friends, plus a little patience and effort will help to significantly reduce the price of a bathhouse. You can build one with little money on hand.

Having your own bathhouse in the courtyard of a private house is the dream of many owners of suburban areas. Everyone knows that a bathhouse serves as a place not only for regular washing, but also for wellness treatments - healing steam cleanses pores, improves blood circulation and gives vitality. In addition, there is a tradition that this particular building often turns into a kind of “club”, where you can have a great time with friends or loved ones.

Therefore, owners planning to create such a useful “complex” inevitably face the question of what is the best material to build a bathhouse from, so that it can create and maintain an optimal microclimate at any time of the year and at no extra cost. The choice of material directly influences the creation of a healthy, relaxing sauna atmosphere.

In addition, the correctly selected material is the key to the durability of this structure. It is imperative to take into account that the internal surfaces of the walls will be constantly exposed to moist hot air and temperature changes.

The modern market offers a wide variety of different building materials suitable for the construction of walls of houses, utility, utility and other specific buildings. However, it is worth taking a closer look and figuring out which one is ideal for a bathhouse.