What insulation is best for a bathhouse? How can you insulate a bathhouse outside and inside? Insulate a bathhouse from the inside

In every Russian bath (and not only Russian), the steam room is considered the main room. Modern large buildings have an additional washing room, a relaxation room, and a separate dressing room. During the construction of these premises, great attention must also be paid to their comfort, but still, the steam room always comes first. In addition, the operating conditions of the steam room are the most severe in terms of building materials; this must be taken into account when choosing methods and methods of insulation.

The article discusses several options for insulation; we will also talk about the criteria for choosing materials and their physical characteristics. Professional builders will share their knowledge and practical experience in carrying out the work. First, you need to give a brief description of thermal insulation materials; based on this knowledge, you can make informed decisions when choosing a method for thermal insulation of a steam room.

To insulate a steam room, you can use various materials, from the most modern mineral wool to traditional, but ineffective insulation made from straw or expanded clay. The table provides comparisons of various insulation and building materials in terms of thermal conductivity based on the recommendations of SNiP 23–02–2003. Calculations were made for the Moscow region.

SET OF RULES. THERMAL PROTECTION OF BUILDINGS. SP 50.13330.2012. File for download

Specifically for paired rooms, the thickness of insulation is not regulated; we recommend using these data as minimum values. You can increase the thickness of insulation, but you should not reduce it.

As can be seen from the table, polystyrene foam and mineral wool are confidently in the lead in heat-saving qualities; these materials are most often used for thermal insulation of baths. What can you say about these insulation materials?

It has one rather unpleasant property - it releases unsafe substances into the air. Advantages - the cost of the material is much lower than that of mineral wool. In addition, it is not afraid of moisture, which makes waterproofing the insulation much cheaper and easier, and for baths this is a very important issue.

What do practitioners advise on the use of polystyrene foam? It can also be used indoors; a short stay in the steam room has virtually no effect on your well-being. In addition, there are modern brands that are approved by sanitary authorities for indoor use. By the way, various decorative elements for interior decoration are made from them: ceiling skirting boards, baguettes, art products, etc. However, the cost of such safe polystyrene foam is much higher.

In the case of a bathhouse, the use of polystyrene foam has another problem - rodents “love” it very much. In just one year, the slabs can turn into separate balls, and the efficiency of insulation will decrease significantly. This should also be kept in mind when choosing insulation.

The material can be used to insulate walls and ceilings, and expanded polystyrene with increased physical strength is also used when installing heated floors with ceramic tiles.

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

Mineral wool

In terms of heat-saving indicators, it is almost no different from expanded polystyrene. There are two disadvantages - high price and extremely high sensitivity to increased relative humidity. Wet cotton wool worsens the initial characteristics by an order of magnitude and causes rotting of all wooden structures.

Mineral wool - photos and characteristics

When insulating a steam room, you need to very carefully and carefully carry out construction measures for steam and water protection; this is quite expensive and time-consuming. During the construction of the bathhouse, mineral wool is used to insulate all surfaces of the steam room, except the floor.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

In terms of efficiency, it is significantly inferior to the above materials, but has two advantages: low cost and high versatility of use. It can be used both in bulk on the ceiling and as an additive to concrete for flooring bases.

Bulk insulation also includes loose polystyrene foam. It can also be added to concrete; such a material is somewhat inferior in heat-saving characteristics to foam concrete, but surpasses it in strength. In a bathhouse, these materials can be used to insulate ceilings or make heated floors.

Prices for expanded clay

expanded clay

Ecowool

Quite a new material, universally applicable. The price is quite satisfactory for consumers, the application technology is not difficult. It is made from recycled cellulose (waste paper) with the addition of antiseptics and fire retardants. Before mechanical application it is diluted with water; it can be used to insulate any surface. The use of ecowool is sometimes the only possible way to insulate surfaces of complex profiles; the technology of use allows for additional processing of sheathed surfaces without dismantling them.

Ecowool – packaging

In terms of thermal conductivity characteristics, ecowool is not inferior to mineral wool, is not afraid of high humidity, is low flammable, and is not damaged by rodents.

Suitable for insulating ceilings in bulk without diluting with water. The disadvantage is that after applying the wet material using a mechanized method, the wooden structures must dry well, and this is quite difficult for all rooms of the bathhouse.

Traditional materials

This refers to the use of straw and sawdust to insulate ceilings. The materials are mixed with clay and diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream. Only the ceilings of the steam room can be insulated. Advantages: lowest price. Disadvantages - unsatisfactory heat saving indicators, a large amount of heavy manual work. Today, such insulation is used extremely rarely.

In this brief review of insulating materials, we tried to give objective characteristics, not to indicate only the positive aspects, but also not to forget about the shortcomings. And each of them has them. We hope that this will help you make informed decisions when choosing technology and materials for insulating your bathhouse, taking into account the maximum number of individual factors.

How to insulate a steam room

Effective insulation of a steam room is a complex set of construction works. Where should you start insulating a steam room? Most will answer without hesitation: of course, from the walls, ceiling and floor. But this is not at all true, these measures should be carried out already at the second stage of insulation, and you need to start from something completely different. Why?

Windows and doors

If the steam room has a large window and even a single glass window, then heat losses will largely offset all work on insulating the walls and ceiling. In a steam room, the window should be at least one-chamber (ideally two-chamber) and small in size. Professional builders advise making a steam room without a window at all. Heat loss through a large window can be more than 20%.

Small window in the steam room - photo

Gaps in doors are the second reason for significant losses; be sure to nail rubber seals around the perimeter. Doors must be wooden, dense, the thickness of the boards is at least 35 mm.

Another very important factor to pay attention to is ventilation. No matter how you insulate the steam room, the effect will be minimal if the air exchange rate in the room is too high. Ventilation is necessary, no one argues, but it should only be regulated. You should always be able to both close it completely and increase the frequency of air changes as necessary.

Having solved these questions, start thinking about methods and materials for insulating the floor, walls and ceiling of the steam room.

Now let’s take a look at ways to insulate a steam room.

Insulation of steam room floors

Wooden floors do not require insulation. Even with a very strong desire, insulation will do much more harm than good. Ceramic tile floors should be insulated. How it's done?

Step 1. Prepare the base. The ground under the steam room needs to be leveled, and a sand cushion about ten centimeters thick should be poured on top.

Important. Before starting work, hit the zero mark. Construction zero is the level of location of the finishing flooring. Knowing this point, you can calculate the thickness of the pillow and concrete base.

Step 2. Compact the sand cushion, install plastic pipes to drain water, and lay a layer of waterproofing. For these purposes, you can use roofing felt or ordinary plastic film. Waterproofing will reduce the relative humidity of concrete, which increases its heat-saving properties.

Prices for waterproofing

waterproofing

Step 3. Prepare the concrete. We strongly recommend using foam concrete for the base or adding expanded clay or loose foam to the cement-sand mixture. To prepare the solution, add two parts sand and three parts expanded clay to one part cement.

Step 4. Install beacons. Water drainage can be done in the middle or in the corner of the steam room. We do not recommend the first option - it is quite difficult to perform a screed with a slope towards the center. It is enough to have a slope within 2÷3 mm per linear meter of the room. Make a bias towards the location of the shelf or doors. Make a specific decision taking into account the location of the bathhouse and the possibility of discharging water beyond its perimeter.

Step 5. If you have the desire and opportunity, you can concrete the wires for electric floor heating. If you don’t want to, wait a few days until the screed dries and start laying ceramic tiles.

The cost of an insulated ceramic steam room floor is much higher than a wooden one. As for the comfort of taking water procedures, there is no significant difference. The only advantage is that the service life of floors under ceramic tiles is much longer than that of wood.

Insulation of steam room walls

Can be made with pressed or rolled mineral wool, polystyrene foam or ecowool. It is quite difficult to give unambiguous advice; there are too many different factors. Most often, mineral wool is used for these purposes; to facilitate the waterproofing process, it is better to immediately purchase foil wool. True, it costs more than usual. But, if you take into account the additional costs of waterproofing, including loss of time, then the money invested is well worth the investment.

As for the thickness of thermal insulation. Comparing the data available in the tables gives nothing to many developers. We recommend using two criteria: the climate zone of residence and the time of use of the steam room. If the bathhouse is located in areas with very low temperatures, then the thickness of the wool should be at least 10 cm. For milder climates, it is enough to insulate with wool 5 cm thick.

If the steam room is used for a short period of time, the heat will be retained by a thinner layer of insulation. When people will be in the steam room for several hours, then put insulation at least 10 cm thick. But these are general recommendations, choose the specific values ​​yourself.

Let's consider the algorithm for performing work on insulating walls with rolled foiled mineral wool 10 cm thick.

Step 1. Check the walls of the room, mark the installation of vertical mounting rails. The width of the slats should be equal to the thickness of the mineral wool. Nail the two outer slats and check their verticality with a level. If necessary, use various pads under the slats to give them a vertical position.

Advice from professionals. If the thickness of the mineral wool should be 10 cm, then difficulties arise with attaching slats of this size. We recommend using metal corners; with their help you can not only quickly fix the supporting frame, but also adjust the vertical position. In addition, you can use narrow material. For one slate, 3–4 corners are quite enough.

It is possible to replace wooden slats with metal slats made of galvanized sheet steel, but they will cost much more.

Metal lathing - option for mounting on hangers

Step 2. Stretch ropes between the outer slats and nail the remaining slats along them. Check their position constantly. The distance between them should be 1÷2 cm less than the width of the roll or sheets of pressed mineral wool. Do the same work around the entire perimeter of the steam room.

Step 3. Prepare the lining, bring it indoors and let it sit for several days. For a steam room, we strongly recommend using European profile lining.

1. Firstly, it has increased tenon/groove dimensions, which eliminates the appearance of cracks during swelling/drying of the material.
2. Secondly, the rear plane of the eurolining has a recess - drying conditions are much improved.

You can nail the lining both into the groove and into the front plane. The first method is more beautiful, but requires some skill, the second method is simpler, but the heads of the hardware will be visible. It is better to use galvanized or copper nails.

Step 4. Start laying the insulation between the slats, making sure there are no gaps or gaps. Mineral wool is fixed with special hardware with large heads. If you don’t have them, make your own hats from thin sheet steel.

Advice from professionals. We recommend using foiled mineral wool for insulation. It costs more than usual, but the difference pays off. There is no need to purchase additional materials for waterproofing and the time required to complete the work is significantly reduced.

Step 5. Seal seams between joints. To do this, you can use special self-adhesive aluminum foil or ordinary tape. It makes no difference what material you choose. The main thing is to completely exclude the possibility of penetration of moist air into the thickness of the mineral wool.

Step 6. Secure the slats to secure the lining, the thickness of the slats is approximately two centimeters. Due to these slats, natural ventilation of the casing will be possible. Leave gaps of 1÷2 cm between the floor and ceiling for ventilation. The cracks will then be covered with ceiling and floor plinths and will become invisible.

Lathing for lining

If all the requirements of insulation technology are met, the thermal insulation of the walls will be effective and durable.

Thermal insulation of the steam room ceiling

Ceilings can be insulated with polystyrene foam, mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay or straw with clay. The best option is mineral wool. The algorithm for insulating ceilings with mineral wool is no different from the work on arranging walls; there is no point in repeating it. Let's talk about another method using expanded clay. Insulation is carried out after the finishing of the steam room ceiling. Expanded clay thickness is at least twenty centimeters.

Important. Expanded clay is hygroscopic and can increase its weight several times when saturated with moisture. This has a very negative effect on load-bearing surfaces; there are cases of deformation of the ceiling cladding. To avoid such an unpleasant phenomenon, carefully make hydro- and vapor barriers.

Step 1. Lay vapor barrier material on the ceiling. For these purposes, you can use both ordinary cheap polyethylene film and expensive modern non-woven materials.

Step 2. Carefully pour a layer of expanded clay at least 20 cm thick onto the film in an even layer. Cover the top with film.

We need to say a few words about how expanded clay works. Among its shortcomings, none of the manufacturers mention one quite significant one. Air passes through it almost without resistance, the large diameters of the individual balls create significant free spaces between them. Since air passes almost freely, heat loss due to convection increases significantly and, accordingly, the effectiveness of thermal insulation deteriorates. After covering the expanded clay on top, efficiency improves - warm air does not have the opportunity to escape from the insulator.

It’s good that expanded clay is covered, the ceilings retain heat better, but another danger arises. The material can absorb a large amount of moisture; wet insulation not only worsens the initial thermal conductivity, but also becomes much heavier. And this threatens to increase the load on all structural elements of the ceiling, and there is a risk of their deformation or complete loss of stability. Experienced builders recommend opening the top film at least once a year for several days to ventilate and dry the expanded clay.

Work on insulation with straw and sawdust is almost no different from that described with expanded clay. But there are a few additional negative points. The first is that the weight of the insulating layer increases significantly. Second, the clay is liquid; it takes time and conditions for the water to dry. Third - the thickness of the ceiling boards must be at least 35 mm. The fourth is the low efficiency of this method of insulation.

It is very difficult to find rooms in any buildings in which building structures and materials would be used in such difficult conditions: high humidity and temperature, direct contact with water, the presence of multidirectional splashes, large temperature differences in certain areas of the walls and ceiling. In this regard, we strongly recommend that you do not rush during the work and do not try to skip some technological operations in order to save time and money.

This is a virtual saving; theoretical expectations to reduce construction costs in most cases become the cause of very real losses. And a decrease in the comfort of taking water procedures is not the biggest nuisance.

Carry out all insulation work as a whole, paying equal attention to ceilings, walls and floors. Don't forget that thermal insulation includes reducing losses through windows and doors, do it correctly and use ventilation. The choice of methods, materials and methods of thermal insulation of the steam room should be made consciously and taking into account both all the architectural features of the bathhouse and the modes of use of the steam room.

Insulating the inside of the steam room allows you to improve the quality of bathing and health procedures and save on paying for fuel for the stove. Therefore, every bathhouse owner should plan such work. And in this article we will look at step-by-step instructions that allow you to equip internal insulation with your own hands.

What needs to be insulated in a bathhouse

First of all, the seams between logs or beams. Even a rounded log allows air to pass through at the joints, which will cool the room and prevent the steam room from heating up to a high temperature. But this work is performed during the construction of the log house.

After assembling the log house, it is necessary to insulate the window and door openings by installing reliable and heat-resistant enclosing structures based on double-glazed windows and heat-resistant panels. Well, in the end, the steam room is insulated from the inside. Moreover, this work can be divided into three stages:

• Insulation of the floor, because the bathhouse is located on freezing ground, and the base alone will not be enough to protect the room from frost.
• Increasing the heat resistance of the ceiling. All the heat accumulates in this zone, so low heat resistance will destroy the entire microclimate of the bathhouse.
• Insulation of walls. During construction, only the seams between the logs are insulated. And this is quite enough for comfortable living indoors, but not at all enough for a bathhouse. In this case, you will have to add an additional layer of insulation to the walls.

As you can see, this is far from an easy job, but there is nothing particularly difficult in this matter. You just need to study the technology of arrangement and choose the right insulation.

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bathhouse must select the correct thermal insulation material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must demonstrate high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient should not rise above 0.2 W/(m K). And this is only for flooring. And for better use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W/(m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially the flooring material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of the floor, this material will not work.

Thirdly, the open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements for walls and attic floors. Here the characteristics of the material can be improved through external finishing.

Fourthly, insulating a steam room requires constant contact of the material with an area of ​​high temperatures. Some amateurs manage to heat the room up to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 °C is considered a normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even after a long, many-hour stay in this temperature range.

Fifthly, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. The release of harmful substances and the provocation of allergic reactions is excluded in principle. People go to the bathhouse for health, not for new illnesses.

As a result, granulated expanded clay should be considered the optimal insulation option for the field. It is not afraid of mechanical stress or moisture. It is better to use regular or foil-clad mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heat, and a layer of finishing will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical stress.

Polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, foil polyethylene are not suitable for insulating a steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, you can begin to directly insulate the steam room from the inside, having first studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate a floor - layer by layer review

To do this, we will have to form a multilayer structure in the direction from the ground, consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a plastic film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists of adding a layer of sand, at least 15 centimeters thick.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to double the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must reach the level of the first crown of the bathhouse frame.

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20-centimeter cells is laid on the expanded clay and the screed is poured using sand-cement mortar with filler. The optimal thickness of the screed is from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future baseboard, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing skirt made of foil, which protects the logs from contact with concrete.

To finish a heat-resistant floor, use tiles or boards laid on the sheathing.

Insulating the ceiling - step-by-step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, you need a completely different heat insulator - foil-clad mineral wool. It can withstand heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily withstand the usual temperature in this steam room zone, which does not rise above 160-180 °C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer, which protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is to lay sheathing boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The pitch of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The third step is laying insulation. After completing the assembly of the sheathing, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, laid with foil outward (towards the floor). And all joints are carefully taped with foil tape. After completion of the work, there should be no gaps left on the ceiling.

The final step is installation of finishing boards (lining) or plywood panels on top of the sheathing. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options made of pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bathhouse is made from hard deciduous trees.

How to insulate walls in a steam room - an overview of the process

Installing vertical thermal insulation on the walls of a bathhouse does not require the use of expensive foil-coated mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and shield from high temperatures.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We saturate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the log house from rot and fungus.
• We fill the walls with boards 3-4 centimeters thick and 2-3 cm wider than the depth of the insulation. The spacing of the boards should match the width of the mineral wool roll. At the end, all boards must be soaked with an antiseptic.
• We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the sheathing, rolling it out in horizontal stripes from bottom to top. In this case, the upper strip should overlap the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). It’s better to use staples (from a stapler) as fasteners. Moreover, it is better to seal the joints with foil tape.
• We stuff 2 centimeter thick planks onto the boards, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. This will create a counter-lattice. And at the end, on top of these planks, we install hardwood paneling.

This scheme makes it possible to assemble very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical stress by a clapboard finish. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

Every modern building for couples procedures must have effective thermal insulation. After completing this procedure, the premises are heated in a short time. You can create a layer of insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands. Any owner of a building can, with little effort and time, create an insulating layer from modern material, without the help of specialists.

Insulate your sauna to create a more comfortable atmosphere

Benefits of the procedure

If the task is to thermally insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands, you should first find out how to insulate this structure correctly. This will avoid many mistakes. This method, according to experts, is the most reliable. It allows:

1. Increase the service life of premises.
2. Eliminate the need for frequent bath repairs.

After creating a layer of insulation from mineral wool or polystyrene foam, the consumption of solid fuel when heating rooms is reduced. If you use modern materials during an event, a comfortable atmosphere will appear in the washroom and other rooms.

In this video we will learn about the process of insulating a bathhouse:

Very rarely, a bathhouse on a country site is a log house with a traditional brick stove inside. Most often this is a frame-type structure made of wood or a building made of concrete. To quickly warm up rooms, you cannot do without an insulating layer. If you refuse to create it, the rooms will cool down in a short time.

The thermal insulation procedure for a bath has certain advantages. Experts identify the following as the main ones:

1. Proper insulation of the steam compartment provides an opportunity to save resources. The optimal temperature in the steam room occurs within a short period.
2. If the event is carried out correctly in the dressing room and in the shower, the owner will not worry about the uncomfortable atmosphere in these rooms when receiving couple procedures.
3. If we exclude deviations from the technology when creating an insulating layer, then with further use of the structure, the circulation of moisture and steam inside the bath will occur in the correct way. As a result, they will be prevented from settling on the facing material and on the walls. This means that the wooden structural elements will not rot.

It should be said that you should not use a bathhouse for its intended purpose if there is fungus or mold on the walls. This negatively affects your health and can lead to asthma. In addition to this, walls with such decoration look unattractive.

Material requirements

To create an effective insulating layer, it is necessary to use modern materials with excellent performance characteristics. When performing work on thermal insulation of surfaces, most specialists pay attention to the washing room and the steam room.

The insulation should not be toxic. During the operation of the building, the insulating layer is constantly exposed to high temperatures. If the material is toxic, then under the influence of this factor it will begin to emit fumes. They can provoke poisoning of people taking paired procedures.

Low hygroscopicity is another quality that a heat insulator intended for a bath should have. Moisture is a factor that negatively affects most insulation materials. Therefore, when searching for a material, you should use one that is insensitive to its effects. Having chosen a product with the desired characteristics, the owner will not be faced with the need to replace the insulation layer ahead of time.

There are a number of properties that should be taken into account when choosing insulation. The most important are:

1. Resistant to high temperatures and steam.
2. Excellent fire-fighting properties.
3. Ability to maintain shape for a long time.

Based on these parameters, you can select an effective material. Carrying out the procedure using it will ensure high-quality insulation. Typically, mineral wool is used to insulate a bath. It is the best choice in terms of price and quality characteristics.

Types of insulation

Today, selecting a material for thermal insulation of a bathhouse is not an easy task. There are many solutions on the market for creating an insulating layer. All of them variety can be divided into three groups:

1. Organic. This includes natural-based products. Its disadvantage is that it is highly flammable at high temperatures. Therefore, when carrying out work in a steam room, such insulation cannot be used. They are an excellent choice for creating an insulating layer in a waiting room or rest room.
2. Mineral. These solutions can be considered as a good option for insulating a bathhouse from the inside, and any part of it. Mineral wool slabs, which have proven their effectiveness, do not cause any harm to health. They are made from natural raw materials, therefore they are environmentally friendly material. In the steam room, it is best to use stone wool. Its main advantage is that it does not support combustion. It fully complies with all the requirements for thermal insulation materials for baths.

1. Chemical. This usually includes products that are made from plastic. When insulating a bathhouse, their use is permissible. In order not to harm your own health, during work you need to think about creating a reliable exterior finish. In this case, harmful fumes will not penetrate into the premises of the building.

Materials such as tow and moss can now be easily purchased in specialized stores. However, these heat insulators are elite. Therefore, their price is high. To install high-quality and environmentally friendly insulation, it is best to purchase jute felt, which is offered in rolls.

There are many controversial opinions regarding the use of moss for thermal insulation. Some experts say that this material is not entirely suitable for insulation, since fungus and mold easily develop in it.

But in reality it does not have such properties. Most likely, the development of such unpleasant phenomena is associated with an incorrect method of cutting the structure or with violations made during the installation of the ventilation system in the bathhouse.

When carrying out the procedure for insulating a bath, special attention should be paid to the material from which it is made. This point influences the progress of work, as well as the choice of a suitable thermal insulation solution. The solutions used for the construction of baths are quite diverse. They differ in characteristics.

If the task arises of thermal insulation of a log bathhouse made of timber or logs, then it is necessary to take into account their shrinkage, which can be up to 10 cm. In addition, in such buildings, gaps appear between the crowns. It is through them that cold air flows are blown in.

The best option for insulating such buildings is to use jute fiber. Its advantages: does not rot and has excellent thermal conductivity.

When insulating log houses, a primitive method is usually used. If the building is built from modern materials, for example, foam blocks, then it is necessary to spend a lot of time to create a high-quality layer of thermal insulation.

An additional insulating layer in brick buildings or bathhouses built from foam blocks is very important. If it is missing, then after heating to the desired temperature, the heat will leave the bathhouse rooms in a few hours.

During the procedure, it is best to use modern materials with high performance characteristics. Usually a ventilated façade is installed on the walls. After fixing, the insulation boards are sheathed using modern decorative solutions: lining, siding. An air space is formed between these two layers. It rids the walls of condensation. This means that the owner will never encounter dampness on the façade.

Work technology

To quickly warm up a structure, thermal insulation of not only the walls, but also the ceiling surface is of great importance. Insulating a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands is a very simple undertaking. But despite this, you should be aware of some nuances. One of them: in order for the thermal insulation of the bathhouse from the inside to be effective and last a long time, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier.

Lathing and laying insulation

The first stage of the insulation procedure is the creation of the sheathing. In addition to conventional slats, you can use galvanized profiles. When carrying out work, it must be remembered that the distance from the sheathing to the base of the wall should be slightly greater than the thickness of the insulation used. This can be achieved by placing pieces of timber under the slats.

Next, the insulation for the bathhouse is laid on the walls from the inside. An inner layer of basalt wool slabs is usually placed between the bars. When carrying out work, it is necessary to work in a respirator. If there is no such means of protection, then you can get by with a gauze bandage. Special glasses should be used to protect your eyes. The fibers in the structure of this material are small and very volatile. They easily enter the human mucosa and cause irritation.

In order to cut the mats into pieces of the required length, you can use a regular sharp knife. When laying, do not jam the heat insulator. The optimal choice is high-density material. It provides maximum insulation efficiency.

Steam protection device

The next step is a steam protection device. The film strips should be fixed in a horizontal orientation in the direction from bottom to top with an overlap of no more than 5 cm. The method for placing the vapor barrier is largely determined by the material from which the sheathing is made.

If it is made of wooden slats, then it is necessary to fix the protective layer using staples and a construction stapler.

If the structure is made of galvanized profile, then the best solution for securing the material would be aluminum tape. In order for the protection against steam to be as effective as possible, you should not only secure the heat insulation boards well, but also glue the resulting joints with tape. In this case, moisture will not penetrate into the insulation.

Creating a Facing Layer

For the installation of decorative coverings, lining is usually used. To make the room feel cozy, you need to use high-quality material.

First, you should take care of preparing the necessary tools. During work you will need:

1. Circular Saw. As an alternative, you can use an electric jigsaw.
2. Drill-driver.
3. Rasp. It is necessary when you need to adjust and process the edges of the lining.
4. Level and plumb.
5. Metal clamps. These elements are used to fix wooden panels;
6. Copper or galvanized screws. They are used for attaching clamps to bars;
7. Self-tapping screws for metal;
8. Wooden skirting boards for finishing corners.

During work on the installation of the facing layer, fixing the lining panels, it is necessary to create a small gap between the material and the waterproofing layer. Along the edges of the ceiling, in the upper and lower parts of the walls, it is worth creating gaps of no more than 2 cm. To secure the outer boards, it is necessary to fasten them through each row with screws. The caps will be easily covered by the laid plinth. Other boards will be held using clamps.

Insulating a bathhouse is a necessary procedure to reduce the cost of its operation. It is mandatory, even if there is an old facility for paired procedures on the site. Every owner is capable of holding a quality event. In order for the end result to please you, it is necessary to use modern insulation for the walls inside the bathhouse and not deviate from the technology of work. Then, upon completion of the work, the bathhouse will warm up well. The heat will not leave it for hours.

The warmer the sauna itself is, the less wood will be consumed to heat it and the longer the heat will be retained in it. In general, insulating a bathhouse is a complex process. And the relaxation room, steam room and dressing room can be insulated in completely different ways: due to their constant microclimate. So how to properly insulate a bathhouse? Let's figure it out.

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside: photos, diagrams and videos

So, how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, depending on what material it was built from.

Features of log house thermal insulation

For a long time, no one has ever insulated a log bathhouse - not even the floors. The logs were simply changed from time to time and the lower crowns were repaired. But today, when a good log house and a real Russian steam room are almost a rarity, the question of high-quality insulation is far from the last. After all, its longevity depends on how protected the bathhouse is from moisture and cold.

In general, insulation in a wooden bath is necessary only when the dimensions of the timber are small; in all other cases, caulking and good waterproofing are sufficient. For the internal insulation of a steam room made of timber, a traditional “pie” with mineral wool is used - except that the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a steam room made of brick.

Brick bathhouse and its insulation

How to insulate a bathhouse made of foam, cinder blocks and concrete

Cinder blocks and foam blocks themselves have quite good thermal insulation materials due to their porous structure. But they can still freeze in the winter, and therefore it is necessary to additionally insulate the block bathhouse. Otherwise, all its walls will be pleased with unaesthetic dark damp spots in frosty weather.

Mineral wool and fiberglass are most suitable for such a bath. But in general, the whole pie must be provided with a reliable vapor barrier - any blocks really do not like high humidity in the air, and they absorb water like sponges. In general, it can be used as insulation and foam.

The first task when insulating the aerated concrete walls of a bathhouse is to remove the ice mass of concrete from the heating circuit. Why should the frame inside the entire structure be made indented from the walls? Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, special vent windows must be made on the outside at the top of the bathhouse and at the bottom. During bath procedures, they need to be closed, and while drying the bath, they need to be opened. And then the usual “pie” of insulation in the steam room and washing room is made. The most standard one looks like this: an aerated concrete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indentation from the wall - insulation - board - vapor barrier where the steam room is - finishing with aspen or cedar boards. This way, the ice walls don’t have to be heated - that’s all the tricks.

Rules for insulating a frame bath

Option two: the insulation of a frame bath occurs according to this scheme. A vapor barrier made of parchment (or roofing felt, or roofing felt) is laid directly on the frame, which is secured by wood sheathing. Between the resulting internal and external walls you need to put foam plastic, fiberboard slabs or heat-insulating reed slabs. All this is covered on all sides with layers of asbestos cement, which makes the frame bath both stronger and warmer.

You can also insulate a frame bath using sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in a ratio of ten to one and laid in a thick layer between the outer and inner cladding. The main thing is that the sawdust is well dried and the layers are treated with iron sulfate.

Features of ceiling and floor insulation

Ceramic tiles are ideal for the waiting room and washing area of ​​a bathhouse - but there must also be thermal insulation under it. Here is the most common scheme for insulating the floor in a bathhouse: a cranial block is sewn to the beams, on which a subfloor made of boards is laid. After this comes a layer of vapor barrier, and then the space between the beams must be filled with the selected heat-insulating material - expanded polystyrene or expanded clay, for example.

A reinforced metal mesh is placed on top of this and a concrete screed is poured. After the latter has dried, the floor is waterproofed with waterproofing. Again the screed is 3-5 cm thick and a heated floor system can be built in if desired. And finally, ceramic tiles are laid on the screed.

But in the steam room and relaxation room, the floor must be made of wood - so that the so-called “heat stroke” does not occur.

Making a “pie” when insulating the ceiling

Insulating a bathhouse from the inside always starts from the ceiling - after all, the highest temperature is always at its level, and therefore this part of the steam room needs to be given special attention. The ceiling should be arranged as follows: vapor barrier - insulation - sheathing - beams - ceiling boards.

If the attic or the second floor in the bathhouse is residential, then the insulation cake will look a little different: the ceiling boards need to be smeared with clay in a two-centimeter layer and covered with wood chips up to 20 cm, or expanded clay, or use some kind of insulation. The main thing is that it is the right thickness.

This is how a bathhouse is insulated from foam blocks, logs and bricks. Each type of structure has its own technology, and knowing at least its basics will help you always keep your steam room warm.

Detailed instructions for insulating a bathhouse from the inside: insulating walls, floors and ceilings. To insulate a bathhouse with your own hands, you don’t need to have any special skills; you only need a standard set of tools and our instructions!

The vast majority of country house owners cannot imagine their property without a real Russian bathhouse or sauna. But in order for it to function properly, and really bring only strength and health to the owners, it is very important to insulate it well; methods of insulation are considered at the stage of drawing up the bathhouse design, but this can also be done with a completed building

To know how to properly insulate a bathhouse from the inside, you need to study the technology of this process and choose the right materials.

Materials for work

Before you start considering insulation technology, you need to figure out what materials need to be prepared for the job.

1. Thermal insulation material is the most important component in the process of insulating the walls, ceiling and floor of a bathhouse. Today there are a large number of insulation materials, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. Which ones are most adapted to high temperatures and humidity?

Rating of insulation for baths

• Low price
• Good thermal insulation
• Light weight
• Multifunctionality and wide scope of application
• Durability
• High resistance against fungi and various microorganisms
• Easy to install

• When burned, releases toxic substances
• Release of harmful substances even at low temperatures
• Creates a vapor barrier
• Hygroscopicity
• Afraid of the sun's rays
• Whole until the mice get there
• Not resistant to solvents
• Low resistance to mechanical damage

Prices for expanded polystyrene

expanded polystyrene

• It “sticks” perfectly to any materials – brick, glass, wood, concrete and metal.
• It is distinguished by its extraordinary lightness and does not weigh down the surface.
• The polyurethane foam coating does not respond to cold weather and warming throughout the year.
• Unlike sheet and panel thermal insulation, this type of insulation is a single whole. There are no joints or seams through which cold air can enter the room.

• Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, rapid wear of the insulation can occur.
• Polyurethane foams are low-flammability materials. However, where the surface becomes too hot or may catch fire, polyurethane foam should not be used.

• High price of material and high cost of spraying services

Prices for polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam

• Low thermal conductivity, which makes it an excellent insulation material
• Fire safety
• Resistant to temperature changes.
• Excellent vapor permeability, making the material “breathable”
• Easy to install

• When moisture is absorbed, the thermal insulation properties decrease and cold bridges form.
• Large weight and volume, increased shipping costs

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

• High frost resistance – withstands temperatures down to -70 °C without loss of properties.
• High degree of fire resistance.
• Safety for humans.
• Durability - 45 years.

• Low vapor permeability – 0.007-0.008 mg/m·h·Pa.
• Flammability. Even despite its self-extinguishing properties, the material burns when in contact with fire.
• Low sound insulation.
• Blowability of seams.

Prices for XPS Boards

• Low price
• Acid resistance
• Quickly absorbs moisture and does not lose its positive qualities

• Long drying
• Requires dust protection during installation

Prices for expanded clay

Getting to know characteristics leads to the conclusion that mineral wool is most suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside for walls and wooden floors, and XPS slabs are most suitable for concrete. Expanded clay can be called a universal material that is perfect for any floor, but it cannot be used for walls for internal insulation.

If you buy it, it will be perfect for a bath material with a foil layer, which promotes long-term heat retention indoors using the principle of a thermos. For example, some characteristics of foil mineral wool insulation from the Izorok company are shown in the table:

2. To fasten mineral wool mats or other foil insulation, and create a seamless sealed surface coating, you will need to purchase special foil tape.

3. The insulation is placed between the sheathing guides, which means you will need wooden blocks with a cross-section that depends on the thickness of the insulating mats. If, as an example, we take the recommended insulation thickness of 100 mm, then the bars should have the same size on one side, or double lathing with perpendicular guides and a two-layer arrangement of mats will be used.

4. The bars are attached to the walls using self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors (depending on the type of wall material), so it is necessary to purchase these elements of the required length, corresponding to both the size of the guides and the required penetration into the walls - for wood - 20 ÷ 25 mm, for solid walls - at least 40 mm.

5. If you choose insulation without a foil layer, then to cover it you will need a vapor barrier film.

6. If the floor in the bathhouse is filled with concrete screed, then in addition to insulation you will need:

— cement and sand or ready-made construction mixture;

- roofing felt;

— reinforcing mesh;

— guides for beacons;

- polyethylene film ;

- damper tape.

The amount of materials will depend on the area of ​​the floor, ceiling and walls of the insulated room.

Having prepared everything you need, you can move on to insulating the surfaces of bath rooms.

Insulation of bath floors

As you know, a bathhouse can be built of wood or brick, which is why not only wood, but also concrete is installed. The latter is most often poured in a brick bath, but sometimes it is also done in a wooden one. In any case, a concrete floor always requires enhanced insulation.

Thermal insulation of floors in any bathhouse should be given special attention, since they must withstand high humidity and temperature changes between the rooms and the ground. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a multi-layer “pie” of a wooden floor or a concrete device, it is recommended to cover the entire surface under the structure of the bathhouse with a medium fraction or slag.

The expanded clay layer will depend on the thickness of the walls of the building. It must be at least twice as thick as they are. It should be noted that if it is possible and space allows to make the expanded clay embankment thicker, then this will only increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If the bathhouse is built of brick and installed on a concrete foundation, then it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay almost to the entire height of the foundation strip.

Concrete floor

In order for the concrete floor of the bathhouse to be warm, you need to do a number of operations that are carried out after connecting the drain pipe (it must be raised in advance to the height of the future screed). The work consists of the following stages:

• The soil is compacted well in the morning, and the walls are covered with a waterproofing compound.
• Next, a layer of sand 80 ÷ 100 mm thick is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
• Roofing felt is laid on top of the sand, extending onto the walls by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 120 ÷ 150 mm; it is advisable to fasten them with waterproof tape or thermally glue them together using tar mastic.
• Next, expanded clay is poured onto the roofing felt in such a way that the future floor screed is approximately 50 mm lower than the height of the foundation.

• Next, expanded clay is distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. Additionally, XPS slabs 50 mm thick can be laid on it - they have sufficient rigidity and can easily withstand all loads; do not forget that before laying them, expanded clay should be covered with dense polyethylene.

• A reinforcing mesh with cells from 50 to 100 mm is laid on the surface prepared in this way.
• Beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing belt, along which it will be aligned.
• If the opening of the drain pipe is located in the center of the insulated room, then the beacons are laid at a slight angle to it, so that when leveling the concrete, a slight slope is formed on all sides of the room towards the drain.
• Next, along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape is glued or otherwise attached to the lower part of the walls. This measure will preserve the screed from deformation during temperature changes, since compensates thermal expansion of the material.

• Prepared concrete, mixed with sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1, is laid on the reinforcing mesh and leveled using building rules. It is advisable to introduce into the composition special plasticizers that are commercially available - this will improve the quality of the coating. Often, ready-made screed mixtures with an already optimized composition for rooms with high humidity or for external works .
• After the screed has hardened and gained strength, it is impregnated with a waterproofing compound () of deep penetration.

• Once the soil has dried, ceramic tiles are laid. Another option is to install joists with wooden flooring on the concrete floor. Well-treated boards on it should be fixed at a distance of 20 ÷ 30 mm from each other.

Wooden floor

Plank floors are traditional for wooden baths. To arrange them correctly, in addition to insulation operations, you need to provide high-quality waterproofing. Don’t forget about floor ventilation - for this, special channels must be left in the foundation.

Work on installation and insulation of the floor is carried out in such a sequence:

• First of all, a drain pipe is connected to the bathhouse. The drain is usually located in the middle of the room, and all insulation materials and the ceiling are arranged around it.

• Roofing material is laid on the compacted soil, which should rise to the walls by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Expanded clay is laid on top of the waterproofing. The greater its thickness, the better, but between its surface and the floor beams there must be a ventilation distance of at least 200 ÷ 250 mm.
• Next, on waterproofed Floor beams are laid in layers of roofing felt over the protruding part of the foundation. All wooden floor elements must be treated in advance.

• Skull blocks are nailed or screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, onto which the subfloor boards will be mounted.

• The subfloor is covered with a vapor-proof film, which covers both the floor beams and the boards laid between them.
• Next, insulation is laid on the subfloor between the floor beams - it can be mineral wool or expanded clay.

• The top of the insulating material is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film.

• The logs are fixed perpendicular to the floor beams, on which the wooden flooring is placed. A hole is made in the middle - the drain pipe will go into it.

• On the style, slats are nailed, cut at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain - they will become a lathing for installing a waterproof wooden floor.
• Insulation is placed between the sheathing bars with the foil layer facing up and secured together with foil tape. The thermal insulator must completely cover the sheathing bars.

• A leak-proof, well-fitted, finished wooden flooring is laid on top at an angle.

Another insulation option for wooden and concrete floors

In addition to those presented above, there are a very large number of different options for insulating the bathhouse floor. You can briefly talk about another possible method of arranging a floor using polystyrene foam. The method is more labor-intensive, but is suitable for both concrete and wooden coverings.

1 - soil;

2- layer of sand;

3 - foam plastic boards;

4 - cement mortar with foam chips;

5 - waterproofing layer;

6 - cement mortar with vermiculite;

7 - concrete screed;

9 - boardwalk.

• In this option, the space under the future floor will have to be deepened by 500 ÷ 600 mm, and the soil at its bottom will have to be compacted well.
• Then, a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is poured onto the bottom, which is wetted and compacted with a hand tamper.
• A dense waterproofing film is laid on top of this layer, which should completely cover the bottom and extend 200-300 mm onto the walls. It must be securely fastened to its walls.
• Instead of expanded clay, which was used in the first versions, a layer of expanded polystyrene boards is laid on the film. Its total thickness must be at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Next, a screed made of cement mortar and foam chips in proportions of 2:1 is laid on the foam slabs. The thickness of this layer should be 50 ÷ 70 mm. This layer will not only insulate, but also strengthen the slab material laid below.
• Then a layer of waterproofing is laid again - for this you can use thick polyethylene film or roofing felt. The canvases must be fastened together with waterproof tape.
• The next layer in this “pie” is a layer of concrete with vermiculite, mixed in a 3:1 ratio. Its thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm. is a natural material that has high heat-insulating properties. Insects and rodents never settle in it, it is not subject to rotting and decomposition. A vermiculite layer will significantly increase the thermal insulation of the floor.

The table shows the proportions cement-vermiculite solutions and their performance characteristics:

• The hardened screed is strengthened with reinforcing mesh with cells up to 100 mm, and beacons for the upper concrete screed are placed on it. The beacons are fixed to concrete or gypsum mortar, at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain.
• Next, concrete is laid out on this structure, in the same proportions and combinations with modifying additives, as described above. The thickness of the screed near the drain should be at least 50mm.
• After strengthening the screed, ceramic tiles are laid on it or removable wooden flooring for wet floors is installed.

Boards in this the floor is fixed at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other - this will not only allow water to quickly drain from the flooring, but also allow the wood to dry out. In addition, removable ones can be periodically placed outside for ventilation and drying, so you need to foresee their size in advance so that they can easily pass through the bathhouse door.

Insulation of bath walls

It is equally important, in addition to the floor, to reliably insulate the walls and ceiling of bath rooms. The walls and ceiling of a brick or wooden bathhouse are insulated according to the same principle; the only difference between them will be the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Since wood has a lower thermal conductivity than brick, the latter will require a thicker layer of insulation.

The process of wall insulation is carried out as follows:

• The walls are treated with an antiseptic composition - it will protect them from the appearance and spread of mold and mildew.
• Next, you need to attach a water vapor barrier film to the wall.
• The sheathing is installed.
• Insulation is placed between the sheathing guides.
• Vapor barrier is attached.
• The counter-lattice slats are nailed down - this will create the necessary ventilation gap.
• The facing material is installed.

The sequence of work is general, but walls made of different materials have their own characteristics.

Brick walls

• Sheathing bars are fixed to the brick wall in increments of 600 mm. The cross-sectional size of the timber must be equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. Usually, for a brick wall, slag wool in mats 100 mm thick is used for insulation, which means that the thickness of the sheathing guides should be 100 mm.

• Insulation is placed between the bars in the spacer. You can help fix it with a stretched zigzag nylon cord.
• The next layer is a water vapor barrier film, which is secured to the sheathing bars. Overlaps between the canvases (at least 150 mm) are glued with waterproof tape.
• Next, counter battens are nailed to the bars.
• Then foil insulation, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, is stretched over the entire surface and attached to the slats. The joints are sealed with foil tape.

• On top, the entire “pie” is sheathed with wooden clapboard, which is secured to the same counter-lattice slats.

It should be noted that if foil insulation is used in the insulation process, then the additional layer of vapor barrier can be eliminated, since this type of insulation material perfectly retains steam.

Insulation of a log wall

1 - log wall;

2 - basalt insulation with foil surface;

3 - sheathing bars;

4 - lining;

5 - ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.

The walls of a log bathhouse themselves have low thermal conductivity and retain heat well inside the room, provided that the joints of the logs at the corners and between each other are well sealed. Therefore, insulation is carried out as follows:

• Basalt mineral wool with a foil layer is fixed to the wall, which should face the room. The thickness of the insulation is selected from 50 to 80 mm. It can be secured with special fasteners with wide caps - “fungi”, which are recessed into the insulation.
• Wooden sheathing bars are nailed vertically or horizontally on top of the insulation.
• Next, the wall is sheathed, having a thickness of 10 mm - it is attached to the sheathing bars.

Insulation of timber walls

A wall made of timber should be, just like a log wall, well insulated by itself, that is, all cracks and gaps are caulked with tow. It is easier to attach all the components of the insulation “pie” to it, since it has a flat surface into which fasteners can be easily screwed or hammered. Its insulation occurs in the following sequence:

• A sheathing made of timber is attached to the wall, at a distance of guides from each other of 600 mm.
• Next, insulation material is laid between the bars - it is better if it is mineral wool.
• Then the entire structure is covered with rolled foil insulation, which is fixed to the sheathing bars, and the joints of the individual panels are glued together with foil tape.
• Counter slats are nailed on top of the bars, which will create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
• At the end of the process, the insulating “pie” is lined with clapboard.

It must be said that there are other options for laying insulation layers, but the ones given above are considered the most popular and frequently used, since they are completely uncomplicated and have long been tested in practice.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling can be mounted and insulated in three ways - you can choose any of them if it is suitable for the existing structure of the bathhouse.

Panel ceiling

This ceiling is mounted from panels, which already consist of all the layers necessary for vapor barrier, insulation and internal cladding, mounted on support bars. Mineral wool with a thickness of at least 100 mm is most often used as insulation in the panels.

The shields are mounted at the bottom and rise up in finished form. The peculiarity of such insulation is that insulation gaskets must also be laid between the finished panels - this process is carried out after the panels are fixed to the bathhouse ceiling.

Lifting the panels upward can be complicated by the fact that when assembled they have quite a lot of weight, so very often they are lifted in parts and assembled at a height.

false ceiling

A false ceiling is fundamentally different in design from a panel ceiling, since its installation follows a different principle, somewhat similar to wall insulation.

• The frame for such a ceiling is the attic floor beams, laid in increments of 600 mm.
• On the side of the attic, waterproofing is laid on the floor beams, which should cover the entire ceiling area.
• A wooden flooring is fixed to the waterproofing, also from the attic side.
• Insulation is placed between the floor beams.

• Then the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier or foil material, which is fixed to the floor beams.
• The last stage is covering the ceiling with wooden paneling.

There is another option for insulating a false ceiling, using other insulating materials, for example, expanded clay. In this case, almost all the work is done from the attic side, except for the finishing of the ceiling surface with clapboard.

Flat ceiling

The floor ceiling also differs from the two already mentioned in its design, in particular - in that it is laid directly on the walls of the room, that is, in principle it does not rest on the floor beams. For such a ceiling, boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used.

From the attic side, a vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the boards, which are covered with a waterproofing film and plywood or plank flooring.

The advantages of this design include the speed and ease of installation, but this ceiling option can only be used when insulating a small bathhouse room, with distances between walls of no more than 2.5 ÷ 2.7 m.

A detailed publication with a description of all the materials required for this and step-by-step instructions can be found on the pages of our portal by following the recommended link.

If the installation of thermal insulation and auxiliary materials is carried out correctly, the heat in the bath rooms will be retained for a very long time, which will help to significantly save on fuel.

In conclusion - a detailed video tutorial on insulating a bathhouse built using frame technology.

Video: insulation and finishing of a frame bath

0 )

0 % ( 0 )

To see the results you need to vote