home · Networks · Is it possible to bury seedlings? How to preserve unplanted fruit tree seedlings in winter. Do I need to dig in rose seedlings?

Is it possible to bury seedlings? How to preserve unplanted fruit tree seedlings in winter. Do I need to dig in rose seedlings?


It is known that it is better to buy seedlings in the fall rather than in the spring. In autumn, the range is widest and the quality is better. In the spring, you will be able to purchase only those seedlings that have remained unsold since the fall. And so you go to the market or nursery and buy a new tree or bush, bring it to the dacha - and then new troubles begin.
Seedlings of highly winter-hardy apple and pear varieties can be planted in the chosen location immediately after purchase in the fall. You just need to protect them from frost - for this, tree trunks up to a height of 1 m at the end of November need to be wrapped in spruce branches, on top of the spruce branches - with white paper, and in December covered with snow to a height of 0.5 m. If you purchased grown in open ground 3-4 year old fruit-bearing seedlings in large pots (10-30 l), you can safely plant them all autumn and even in winter.
But what about crop varieties whose seedlings are not resistant to frost at a young age? If you plant them right away, they may begin to grow, and immature shoots will be damaged by the first frosts. Or it happens like this: you purchased new variety, but are not sure whether the seedlings will tolerate late planting? In this case, a long-tested technology will help you - digging. This method is especially good for preserving apple, pear, cherry or plum seedlings.
SELECTION OF LOCATION
AND SOIL PREPARATION
You shouldn’t bury seedlings anywhere and anyhow - you’ll simply bury them. For digging, you need to choose a dry, high place, protected from the winds. It is better if the digging area is located near the southern wall outbuilding. The site should not be flooded in the spring with melted and stagnant waters. The ridges should be laid so that, together with the buried plants, they are 5-10 cm above the total surface of the buried area.
It is advisable that there is no compost heap or thickets of grass nearby where mice can settle. Otherwise, during the winter lack of food, these rodents will first of all attack your buried seedlings.
The soil should be free from pests and diseases, fertile and slightly loamy. Peat and humus (10-15 l/m2) must be added to sandy soil, and coarse sand (10 l/m2) to clay soil. Everything should be carefully dug up, loosened and weed rhizomes should be selected from the soil. When the soil has settled a little, you can begin to prepare the ditch.
The groove for digging should be 30-35 cm wide and deep. If you dig in grafted seedlings, the depth of the groove should be 50-60 cm. The length of the groove can be any, but not close to the edges of the selected area. The groove should be placed in the west-east direction - this way the roots of the seedlings will be safer, and in the spring the seedlings will warm up faster. The southern slope of the groove is made with a slope of approximately 45o.
Please note: holes for planting in a permanent place must be made at the same time, humus, fertilizers, etc. must be added there in order to plant in the prepared holes in the spring.
PRICOPKA
The technology for digging seedlings is quite simple. Firstly, once you decide to dig in the purchased seedling, remove all the leaves from it (even if you do not dig it in immediately after purchase, but later). This will reduce moisture loss and increase the winter hardiness of the seedling.
Secondly, seedlings should be placed in a ditch only with an inclination to the south (roots to the north, tops to the south), in order to Sun rays slid along the shoots and did not heat them up. This will protect their thin bark from sunburn. Seedlings should not be stacked in a bunch.
Thirdly, the plants are placed in transverse rows at a distance of 10-25 cm from each other. Here the next difficulty arises - to water the plants in the trench or not? There is no clear answer. If the soil is very dry, of course, you need to water. But only the roots of the seedlings placed in the ditch are watered, and not too much so that all the roots are moderately moist. If the soil is moist enough, there is no need to water.
Fourthly, each row of plants is isolated from the neighboring one with a layer of earth. When digging, carefully fill all the spaces between the roots with damp and loose soil. After digging each row, the soil is compacted with shovels. Dense digging protects the roots from freezing and drying out, and in some cases from damage by mice. Then the base of the trunk is covered with earth 10-15 cm (grafted seedlings are covered above the grafting site). The soil poured over the roots must be lightly trampled with your foot. Soil compaction ensures good contact roots with moist soil.
When everything is ready, you can place branches of blackberries, rose hips and other thorny plants around the digging area to protect against rodents. Some gardeners lay out poisoned baits, but keep in mind that the seedlings can absorb the chemicals, which means that their first flowering can become dangerous for pollinators.
CARE OF BURNED SEEDLINGS
Buried seedlings are usually left without shelter until the end of October - beginning of November. When the soil freezes to a depth of 3-5 cm, the seedlings are covered completely with dry, loose soil, up to the tops. You won't have to do anything else with them until the end of winter.
After a very snowy winter, a lot of snow can accumulate in the digging area. To prevent the seedlings from rotting, excess snow must be discarded, leaving a layer of 30-40 cm. In the spring, after the snow has melted, carefully dig up the seedlings and carefully inspect them. plant on permanent place Only healthy, undamaged seedlings are allowed.
If you doubt whether they overwintered well, then do sharp knife small sections of bark and wood at the base of the roots (then, of course, the sections need to be covered with garden varnish). If the bark is light brown and the wood is greenish-white, there is no freezing, and the seedlings can be used to plant a garden. If they are dark brown, it means that the seedlings are frozen or frozen. It is not recommended to plant them.
After landing healthy plants For pre-prepared areas, general care is the same as for spring planting.
S. Gorbunov
Newspaper "GARDENER" No. 42, 2010.

The best time for planting is spring, when all the forces of nature help the plant develop a root system and begin to grow. A best time To buy seedlings - autumn, when many varieties go on sale in excellent condition and at a reasonable price. But root formation does not occur at this time, only callus grows.

This discrepancy raises the question: “If a purchased plant does not take root in the fall (with the exception of currants), what to do with the cuttings and seedlings until spring?” There is a solution, this is digging up seedlings for the winter.

Let's wait until spring

Ordinary gardeners are in a hurry to immediately identify plants in a permanent place, and agronomists consider autumn planting to be the worst type of digging and are in no hurry until spring. What is the opinion of the professionals?

The quality of purchased seedlings is not reliably known. It is difficult to determine by appearance whether the growth process has completed and how ready the plant is for winter.

It is necessary to dig in the seedlings so that they go through the entire cycle: from spring to late autumn. The seedling preserved in the dig will begin a new round of development in time and will survive the next winter well.

Determining the deadlines

If you don’t plant, what to do with new plants, when and how to bury the seedlings?

In early autumn, dig in, covering only the roots with soil. With the onset of cold weather, the stems are also covered, leaving 1/3 of the length outside.

Sometimes valuable varieties ordered from nurseries arrive in late autumn. They can also be saved until spring.

We accommodate latecomers

How to bury seedlings for the winter if the soil is frozen and covered with snow? You need to do two things in advance: prepare a bag of earth in a frost-free room and dig a hole in the garden. When the long-awaited package arrives, you need to shovel away the snow, put the plant in the groove, sprinkle it with the prepared soil and cover it with snow.

If the hole is not dug, the ground must be watered hot water, immerse the seedling in the resulting slurry, and throw a snowdrift on top. You can do it simpler: place the plant directly on the snow, cover it with it and wait for spring.

Preparing the place

For better wintering, choose a flat or elevated place where snow always lies in winter and does not accumulate melt water at the beginning of spring. The soil should be loose, free of weeds and without clods. If the area is damp, you can make a drainage ditch.

Shouldn't be nearby compost heaps and hay: mice like to spend the winter in these places.

The trench groove should be oriented in the east-west direction. The roots are laid to the north, the tops to the south.

Preparation of material

It is not enough to know how to bury seedlings for the winter. They still need to be properly prepared for hibernation:

  • healthy, strong plants are purchased;
  • all leaves and petioles are removed from the stem;
  • damaged, rotten and dry roots are cut out;
  • if there is a suspicion of disease, the seedlings are treated with copper sulfate;
  • Crown pruning should be postponed until spring.

How to bury seedlings for the winter

In winter, seedlings have three enemies: damping off, freezing and mice. If everything is done correctly, they will survive the winter well and grow well in the spring.

You need to make a groove in the ground as deep as a shovel bayonet. One wall remains vertical, the other at an angle of 30 degrees. The seedlings are laid perpendicular to the groove, in rows (with roots to the vertical wall). In this case, ½ of the length of the stems should be 3-4 cm below the soil level.

Additionally, you can lay agrofibre under the upper half of the stems, this will protect them from damping off. To combat mice, you can cover the trench with spruce paws, then cover it with earth.

Then they need to be watered well and the roots and lower third of the stems carefully sprinkled with loose soil. The mound must be compacted and watered abundantly again. When the water is absorbed, sprinkle with soil.

As a result of digging, the roots are securely hidden under the roller from the ground. Thin layer soil (no more than 5 cm) covers half of the stems. Coming out of the ground underneath acute angle½ of the seedling's length remains.

In spring, plants are planted as early as possible, as soon as it thaws. upper layer land.

Fruit trees are planted in early spring, as well as throughout the fall, starting approximately from September 20. In our region, dry and hot weather influences the decrease in moisture in the root layer of the soil. Therefore, a delay in spring planting can lead to drying out of the root system of the seedlings, and without abundant watering, the tree may die from lack of moisture.

Immediately before planting, it is useful to dip the roots in clay or clay-manure mash (1 hour clay + 2 hours mullein + 5 hours water), diluted to a creamy state. Heavily dried young seedlings are placed in water with their “heads” for two to three days before planting (this was described in detail in “ Dacha soul"No. 7 in April 2003).

If you plant in the spring, the results are visible within a month. And if growth is poor throughout the summer, this means that you either purchased a frozen seedling or violated the technology when planting it. With such a seedling you will have to tinker more, preventing the soil from drying out during the entire dry period. Despite the fact that growth in the year of planting is usually small, the winter hardiness of the restored plant will be sufficient to survive the coming winter.

When planted in autumn, the tree is at greater risk of being damaged by harsh weather conditions. winter frosts. Under certain circumstances, even frost less than -30°C can be harmful. For example, in the second half of winter, if frost returns immediately after a long thaw. Damage may be even more severe than during more severe frosts without prior thaw. They can even lead to the death of a seedling if its winter hardiness is low or the plant has been weakened. This often happens during a dry, rainless and waterless autumn. On next year the seedling will be sick for a long time and grow poorly throughout the summer. To protect it (especially the root system) from freezing, it is better to dig it in before spring, and as soon as the snow melts, plant it in a previously prepared (from autumn) landing hole.

Apple trees take root even when planted late, if the buds have already swelled. In this case, it is only necessary to maintain soil moisture. Cherries take root better when planted immediately after the snow melts, in the most early dates. Interesting feature from practice: cherries with swollen buds after being stored in the cellar when planted in the garden get sick more than cherries planted in the garden from digging on the street. Even if they are left buried for a year without being planted, they still survive, despite the residual deepening.

Here general principle digging of fruit crops. When the seedlings are placed in a digging hole or trench at an angle of approximately 30° or less, the root collar is also deepened. To protect against mice, the branches of apple, pear and other trees are covered with boards from above and pressed more tightly to the ground. Mice almost never eat cherries and plums, and such protection is not required. When planting in a permanent place, make sure that the root collar (the place where the stem transitions into the roots) is at the level of the top layer of soil, not higher or lower than it. The seedling is tied for balance to a planting stake driven into the ground.

In the spring, thickened branches are cut out, leaving the three main most developed ones. The remaining branches and the top are cut by one third of their length in order to form the future crown, observing subordination when the top is one third higher than all other side branches.

Thus, there is no fundamental difference in planting - in spring or autumn. It is only important to take into account the characteristics of the period. In spring, water more. In autumn - protect from frost by digging if you are not sure that the seedling is winter-hardy or that the winter will not be harsh. During dry autumn, the digging area is watered.

The choice of planting time also depends on the terrain: in high areas it is not so scary and autumn planting(we have severe frosts once every ten years). In the lowlands, planting in the spring from digging or after storage in the cellar, or with freshly dug seedlings is better suited.

Gennady Ivanovich SOBOLEV,
Candidate of Agricultural Sciences,
Samara

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