How to properly grow peony from seeds. How to grow peonies from seeds? Features of growing peonies. Landing at a permanent place

Filling the air with a subtle aroma. Cut peony flowers look no less chic.

Flower growers, as a rule, propagate peonies vegetative way– by dividing the bush, since when grown from seeds there is a high probability of splitting varietal characteristics. In breeding work seed propagation is of paramount importance - in this way it is possible to develop new varieties. Unfortunately, peonies grown by sowing seeds bloom only in the 5th or 6th year. In addition, seed propagation has its own subtleties.

Physiological characteristics of peony seeds

Peony seeds germinate very slowly, which is due to the morphology of the embryo. Due to low enzymatic activity, seeds germinate only in the second year after sowing, as they require two-stage stratification.

The process of obtaining seedlings can be accelerated if you grow peonies from your own collected seeds. To do this, it is recommended to collect seeds that are not fully ripe (from about mid-August to mid-September). Freshly harvested seeds are immediately sown in beds to a depth of about 5 cm. In this case, the seeds have time to go through both stages of stratification: warm, at a temperature of 15 to 30 °C, and “cold” for 2 months (temperature 5 - 10 °C ).

This sowing technology makes it possible to obtain seedlings already at next year. In this case, not all seeds will germinate - some will sprout in another year.

A few germination secrets

Experienced flower growers and breeders have developed a number of specific techniques to speed up the production of peony seedlings.

Firstly, high-quality thermal stratification will only occur if the seeds are exposed to variable temperatures during the daily rhythm: day - 30 °C, night - 15 °C.

Secondly, you need to know that at the stage of thermal stratification, a root appears on the seed. Next, a transition to the “cold” phase is required. The process of passing through the second phase of stratification can be artificially accelerated by treating the hypocotyl (the area of ​​the stem under the cotyledons) with a solution of gibberellic acid (a growth regulator). First, prepare a regulator solution with a concentration of 0.01%. The seeds are opened, a piece of bandage is moistened with the solution and applied to the hypocotyl area. To maintain the required level of humidity, the seeds are covered with caps made of translucent material. At low positive temperatures (5 – 10 °C), the seedling should form a growth bud. If after a week the bud has not formed, then it is advisable to repeat the treatment. Seedlings with a bud are transferred to warm room, where they will continue to grow at a temperature of 15 – 18 °C.

Of course, manipulating “acceleration” is a rather labor-intensive process, but this allows you to save a whole year of waiting!

Germination of purchased seeds

Store-bought peony seeds often have a long shelf life, which is why they lose some of their moisture and become wrinkled. Such seeds have a hardened outer shell, which creates an obstacle to pecking. For this reason, it is recommended to soak newly purchased seeds in water at room temperature for 48 hours before sowing.

If sowing work is carried out in August, then you can sow, as indicated above, directly into the ground. In general, the germination technology is similar to that already described.

If you decide to sow in winter time, then you will have to carry out a two-stage stratification artificially. For this purpose, it is a good idea to purchase a heating pad with a thermostat, which will allow you to regulate daily temperature fluctuations by switching control limits.

Peony seeds are sown in moistened sand and the bowls in which the sowing was done are placed on a heating pad. Over the course of a month, it is necessary to increase the heating temperature to 30 °C during the day and reduce it to 15 °C at night. Of course, the sand must be periodically moistened with a spray bottle. When the roots appear, you can move on to the second stage - “cold”.

At the second stage, the hatched seeds need to be transplanted into boxes with fertile soil (peat humus cubes can be used) and the temperature reduced to 5 - 10 °C. Now all that remains is to wait for the leaves to appear, after which the seedlings are again transferred to warmth (18 - 20 °C).

By the way, if you wish, you can manipulate the seedlings using gibberellic acid.

Grown seedlings permanent place planted in the second half of August.

They were grown at the emperor's court more than 2 thousand years ago. They were valued for their extraordinary beauty, aroma, brightness and were called “kings of flowers.”

When the plant was brought to Europe, it was named after the Greek physician Pean, who, according to legend, treated gods and people. This is how they were marked decorative properties and healing qualities of peony.

Peonies were brought to Russia under Peter I, and are now very common. The most popular herbaceous species in cultivation. Unlike the tree type, it is unpretentious, simple in agricultural technology, and survives well in cold winters.

There are several ways to propagate peony:

• Dividing the bush. The rhizomes are cut into plots with 3-5 buds each.
• Root cuttings. Pieces of roots with 1-2 buds are grown and planted in a permanent place.
• Vertical layering. The shoots are gradually covered with earth and when they produce additional roots, cuttings with young roots are cut off.
• Stem cuttings. This is how they reproduce tree varieties. The stems are cut and divided into several cuttings with 2-3 internodes, treated with a growth stimulator, and planted in a greenhouse for rooting.

The peculiarity of this propagation is that all the properties of the parent plant are preserved. If you need to repeat the color, aroma, shape, doubleness of flowers, then propagate using the above methods.

But for those gardeners who like to experiment and get unique results, you need to know how to grow peonies with seeds. In this case, an interesting, unpredictable result is guaranteed: the resulting copy will be different from the original one. In addition, such peonies adapt well and survive better.

Why are peonies rarely grown from seeds?

Peonies are rarely planted from seeds. This is a labor-intensive, painstaking, lengthy task. This requires skills and experience.

Physiological characteristics of the plant that you need to know before starting work:

• The seeds do not germinate well. The reason for this is a hard shell and a weak embryo, which finds it difficult to break through it.
• Low absorption capacity nutrients from the soil.
• Of the germinated seeds, only a fifth of the seedlings will have decorative properties.
• The need for long-term stratification of seeds before sowing - alternating exposure to warm and cold temperatures. This is necessary in order to activate the growth point.
• Very slow growth. Plants add several centimeters per year, and begin to bloom for the first time after 4-7 years.
• Some varieties do not produce seeds.

Tree peony is difficult to grow from seeds, even if you immediately start germinating freshly harvested seeds. They germinate only in the second year. They bloom after 7 years.

For growing from seeds, usually herbaceous types of peonies are used: milky-flowered, evasive (Maryin root), thin-leaved, black, wild. The seeds have a shell that is not as thick as that of the tree peony and is better able to germinate. They bloom in 4-5 years.

When and what seeds to collect?

1. Peony seeds reach an initial stage of maturity by the end of August. Collect while the shell is not too hardened. The color is lighter than that of mature ones, the shell is softer.
2. Typically, seeds are collected from mid-August to early September. If you skip this moment, the seeds will become overripe, harden, and the shell will become too hard. But even if the deadlines are met, at best half of them will germinate.
3. Seeds herbaceous peonies (lacty-flowered, evasive, thin-leaved) small - 0.5-1 cm in size. Their color varies from light beige to brown, the shell is elastic, leathery, smooth to the touch.
4. The tree peony has seeds like coffee beans, or black peppercorn; color - from brown to black. The shell is thicker than that of the seeds of herbaceous species.

How to grow more crops?

Any gardener and summer resident is pleased to receive a large harvest with large fruits. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to obtain the desired result.

Plants often lack nutrition and useful minerals

It has the following properties:

• Allows increase productivity by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
• You can get a good one harvest even on low-fertility soils and in unfavorable climatic conditions
• Absolutely safe

How to collect peony seeds?

If peony flowers are left on the bush until the end of August, then in their place a box with rounded seeds will form. The shape of the box is complex: pods connected into a star.

As soon as the valves of the pods begin to open slightly, bursting at the seam, they are torn off and the seeds are removed. Full, shiny, light brown specimens are then selected. Until the pods have fully opened, the seeds are protected from drying out. At the same time, if the pods burst, this is a sign that the seeds are ripe.

Growing peonies from seeds in open ground

After the seeds are collected, they need to be sown for germination. This must be done immediately after collection so that they do not dry out.. Best time: end of August - mid-September. Planting at this time is useful because the seeds naturally undergo stratification.

In central, western and southern regions the weather at this time is still warm, often reaching 25-27°C, so the seeds go through a warm phase for 1-1.5 months, and then a cold phase.

For the eastern (Urals, Siberia) and northern regions, where there are already frosts in September and winters are very harsh, this scheme is not suitable. The seeds will simply freeze.

Peonies grow well in any soil, but Light loamy soils are preferable. They do not tolerate wet, swampy places well. If the soil is heavy - chernozem, clay, peaty, then river sand and humus are added to it.

The bed is prepared two weeks before planting:

• dig the ground deeply and carefully;
• remove weeds, stones, debris;
• add 150 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per 1 square meter, mix thoroughly, compact;
• sour, clay soil neutralized by adding 200 g of slaked lime or ash;
• enclose the area with a wooden or plastic border.

Before planting, water the soil well and make furrows at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

The seeds are buried 3-4 cm into the soil, distributing them every 10 cm.

When cold weather sets in, the beds are mulched with straw, mullein, and dry leaves. The layer should be at least 10 cm. If the winter has little snow and frost, cover it with additional coniferous spruce branches or increase the mulch layer to 20 cm.

In the spring the seeds will come to life. Germination begins from the root. To activate the leaf bud you will need another cold period. Therefore, you will have to wait another year for the first leaves.

Stories from our readers!
“I am a summer resident with many years of experience, and I started using this fertilizer only last year. I tested it on the most capricious vegetable in my garden - tomatoes. The bushes grew and bloomed together, they yielded more than usual. And they did not suffer from late blight, this is the main thing.

Fertilizer really gives more intensive growth garden plants, and they bear fruit much better. Nowadays you can’t grow a normal harvest without fertilizer, and this fertilizing increases the amount of vegetables, so I’m very pleased with the result.”

Germinating peony seeds at home

Growing seedlings from seeds at home is used in the following cases:

1. when they want to reduce the time from planting seeds to the appearance of flowers by one year;
2. When climatic conditions do not allow you to immediately plant seeds in open ground.

The germination process has several stages:

1. Soak the seeds overnight in a solution of a biostimulant such as: Epin, Zircon, Heteroauxin (concentration according to instructions) or in a solution of potassium permanganate (the color should be dark purple).
2. Place 2 cm of soil at the bottom of a flat, wide container and the same amount of sand on top.
3. Moisten the soil.
4. Place the swollen seeds on the surface. Sprinkle lightly with sand, cover with transparent plastic film or cover with glass.
5. Stratification.

Stages of stratification

To “deceive” nature and speed up germination, seeds are stratified according to one of two schemes:

1. First scheme: warm phase - cold - warm.
2. Second scheme: cold - warm - cold.

First scheme

The first scheme is the most common. It gives the best result: the resulting seedling has a leaf. With the second scheme - only the spine.

When warm weather sets in, take the seedlings out of the house into the garden and place them in a bright, slightly shaded place without drafts. This will harden it and help it adapt when planted in a permanent place.

Second scheme

It is used less frequently and looks like this:

1. Cold phase(2 months) : place the seeds in freezer immediately after collection.
2. Warm phase(2 months) : remove from the chamber, plant in a container with fertile soil, place in a warm, bright place, for example, on a windowsill.
3. Cold phase: after 2 months, the containers are moved outside. Since this will have to be done in winter, the bed is prepared in the fall: the soil is dug up, small trenches are made, and covered with film. The location is marked to be found under the snow. The depth of the trench is 10 cm, the width is 15 cm. Having cleared the snow, place containers with seedlings in the trench. Cover with a thick layer of mulch: sawdust, spruce branches, straw.

In the spring, the seeds will hatch and the first roots will appear.

Secrets of fast seed germination

Experienced gardeners know several secrets that help them germinate peony seeds faster and get high-quality seedlings.

These are the rules:

Features of germination of purchased seeds

It is not always possible to collect seeds from your own plot to propagate a peony. Big choice offered by Chinese and domestic websites.

If the seeds are received by mail or purchased in a store, they have features that you need to know about:

• The seeds have a long shelf life, they can be several years old, so they are hard, dried out, and often wrinkled. Such seeds germinate very poorly, or may not germinate at all.
• The photo of the peony that sellers advertise and depict on the label will not correspond to the flower grown from seeds. The results are always unpredictable and unique.

To soften the shell, the seeds are soaked in warm, settled water for 2-3 days. And even better - in a strong solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of a growth biostimulator (Epin, Zircon, Rostok, Heteroauxin).

If this is not enough, then immediately before planting you can additionally influence them in one of the following ways:

1. Mix the seeds with river sand and shake the container.
2. Carry out scarification by slightly cutting the shell or treating it with soft sandpaper.

Next, choose a planting method. If this happens in late summer (August) or autumn (September), then the prepared seeds can be sown directly into the ground. Or carry out stratification with variable daily temperatures at home.

Seedling care

Before the plant is planted in a permanent place, it requires care. A seedling that has just hatched is still very weak and may die.

To avoid this, the following must be observed:

Landing in a permanent place

Until August, the seedlings are in pots. Planted in open ground at the end of August or early September (for middle zone Russia). The weather is still warm, but it is no longer very hot. Young plants have time to take root and get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

Place for planting peonies

In the shade of trees, fences, and house walls, flower stalks become longer, the color fades, and the number of flowers decreases. Peonies need good lighting . But under the scorching sun the plant feels bad: the flowers fade.

Therefore, a place for peonies is chosen following the recommendations:

1. The most the best place - a spacious bright area, shaded in the midday heat.
2. Peony grows in one place for up to 50 years, so you need to take into account the prospect of increasing the plant. Do not plant it next to young tall perennials, which, as they grow, will shade the peony.
3. It is unacceptable to plant the plant in flooded areas. and where groundwater lies close. Their level should be at least 80 cm below the ground surface.
4. The place must be protected from drafts and winds.

Preparing the soil and pit

The soil for planting must be prepared in advance, 2-3 weeks in advance:

• The best soil- neutral or slightly alkaline loams: pH 5.8-7.0.
• If, then the earth dug out of the hole is mixed with slaked lime or dolomite flour: 250 g per pit.
• Distance between plants from 50 to 100 cm, depending on the final size of the bush. For short, dwarf people - 50 cm, for others - 80-100 cm.
• The hole is dug measuring 50*50*50 cm.
• A drainage layer of 7-8 cm is laid out at the bottom of the hole. This could be expanded clay, broken brick, small stones.
• Half of the earth is mixed with superphosphate and potassium sulfate, of which 150 g are taken, poured into a hole, compacted. This layer is a supply of nutrients for the bush for the future.
• The other half of the soil is mixed with compost in a 1:1 ratio. A plant is planted in it.

Planting a seedling in a hole

Caring for young peonies

Before plants enter the flowering stage, careful care is needed. Do not feed for 2-3 years. In subsequent years, they are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers and mullein infusion.

It is more important to comply with others agricultural techniques: weeding and loosening the soil, watering, pruning the plant. If these rules are followed in a timely manner, peonies will bloom faster.

Loosening and weeding

1. Loosening the soil is carried out regularly, trying not to touch the roots. Close to the bush, the soil is loosened to a depth of 5 cm. At a distance of 15-20 cm, you can loosen it deeper - up to 10 cm. When loosened, the soil is freed from weeds and saturated with oxygen.
2. It is advisable to loosen after watering to prevent a crust from forming.. Subsequent mulching helps retain moisture in the lower layers of the soil. If weeds appear, they are regularly removed by weeding. Frequent loosening prevents weed germination.

Watering

Peonies love well-moistened soil. Watering is especially necessary in the spring, when the leaf growth begins. In a growing peony, the above-ground green part gradually increases, and abundant moisture evaporates through it.

Frequent and proper watering is necessary:

• You need to water in the evening or in the morning.
• Carry out abundant watering 2-3 times a month, shallow watering much more often. In hot weather - every day.
• After watering, loosen the soil.
• Do not water on the leaves. It is advisable to do this along a groove 15 cm deep, which is dug around the plant.
• The water should not be too cold.

You need to remember that you can’t over-water the plants. Excess moisture leads to rotting of stems and roots.

Trimming

Peonies grown from seeds are pruned for winter. This is not done in the first year because the plant is too small and has only one leaf. In mid latitudes pruning is usually done in early November, from the onset of frost.

Most stems are cut at the root. The sprouts under which the bud is located are not cut off completely, leaving 5-7 cm above the ground. Sprinkle the cutting area wood ash. The trimmed bushes are covered with humus, sawdust, and spruce branches.

There are times when a plant is affected by diseases. Then pruning must be done urgently, regardless of the time of year, remove rotten, affected parts, then treat the bush with a fungicide solution.

Summarizing

Growing peonies from seeds is a difficult task, but quite feasible.

You just need to be patient and follow the advice experienced gardeners:

• use your own seeds;
• apply stratification according to the scheme: warm phase - cold - warm;
• plant seedlings in open ground during the period: late August - early September;
• follow agricultural techniques for caring for young plants.

Then, in a few years, a unique bush will appear on your site, which will delight you with fragrant and amazing flowers!

Every gardener can grow from seeds, but you need to have knowledge and patience.
If it is tree-like, it will be easier to carry climatic features specific region and microclimate of your garden. And this hardy plant will not require any extraordinary efforts in preparing for winter.

I sowed the collected ones after ripening immediately into open ground. And in the coming spring I saw with regret: one, maximum two plants sprouted (out of 30-40 seeds sown). The next year I found 2-3 more peony sprouts in this place - that’s all...

Then I decided to try to sow the tree peony in a different way, pre-treating the seeds before sowing.

Tree peony seed treatment

In the early days I soaked my tree peony seeds, collected in the fall.

Two weeks later, when the seeds had swelled, I carried them out. I rubbed each peony seed on sandpaper (medium grit) on both sides until a white heart appeared under the seed shell.

To the bottom of the transparent plastic container bed, which perfectly absorbs and retains moisture for a long time for seeds placed in moss. I closed the container with the seeds with a lid.

If there is no moss, I recommend using it to moisten the seeds. toilet paper, folding it in ten layers, and putting seeds in the middle.
You can place the seeds on prepared toilet paper; then you need to cover them on top with a thick lid of wet toilet paper.
For the experiment, I put several peony seeds between layers of toilet paper and placed them in a resealable jar.

I put the peony seeds in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) for 2.5 months.

She took out from the refrigerator a jar of seeds and a container with tree peony seeds lying in the moss. I placed the containers with the seeds in them in warm corner window sill.

I tried to open the peony seeds every day for a few seconds to ventilate in the jar where I used toilet paper to soak the seeds. If it appeared, I washed the seeds in potassium permanganate and placed them on a fresh layer of paper.

Please note that in sphagnum moss, mold does not appear on stored seeds at all, and therefore you can not look into the container with moss for some time.

In the photo: tree peony seeds ripened and germinated in sphagnum

Sowing sprouted tree peony seeds

Finally, after 20, white roots began to appear on some peony seeds. By the beginning, absolutely all the seeds had roots.
However, we must keep in mind that the peony seeds were our own, fresh, collected in the fall. But for purchased peony seeds (in a seed store, on Chinese websites, etc.), germination may be much worse.

In the spring, there is no need to delay sowing stratified tree peony seeds in open ground. After all, sprouted seeds cannot be stored for a long time. In addition, in May, hot weather may already set in in many regions. Then the sprouted peony seeds may disappear (they will bake under the lid or dry out in the open ground after sowing).

I sow sprouted tree peony seeds in the garden in a shaded place, deepening them to about 3 cm. In order not to dry out their delicate roots, after sowing, for the first time I cover the planting site with trimmed plastic bottles with an open neck.

Transplanting tree peony seedlings

When the tree peony seedlings grow up, you can start replanting them. It is best to transplant them to a permanent place after two years.

We need to think carefully favorable places in the garden for growing tree peony. Choose quiet places in partial shade, protected from the winds. Add fertilizer in advance landing hole, since tree peonies are long-lived, and repeated transplantation is undesirable for them.

Flowering tree peony seedlings

For a tree peony seedling grown from seeds, the first bud will open only five years after germination. In subsequent years, more and more flowers will form on the peony bush.

Tree peonies grow relatively slowly, but they live for fifty years or more. AND special care these plants do not require, giving us magnificent flowers every year in May!

They are found in all gardens, but tree-like ones are still rare for Russian gardeners. Because our stores are filled with imported seedlings tree peonies which are rare

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Peony - cultivated plant with colorful and voluminous flowers that bloom like in early spring(end of April), and in summer. Most gardeners prefer to propagate this flower by dividing the rhizome. Meanwhile, not everyone knows that peony also reproduces by sowing seeds in the soil. This method has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

There are opposing opinions from different gardeners. Some argue that this method has no place in life, and only 10% of seeds are capable of productive reproduction. Others are of the opinion that growing a peony using sprouts from seeds is universal method cultivate a plant by adapting it to certain conditions of a particular area.

There are some crops (varieties) of plants that cannot bear fruit in the stated way, and therefore you should not wait for seeds from the flower. These varieties include:

• Mont Blanc crowned;
• Celestial terry;
• Marshall McMahon;
• Madame Trout.

Such varieties of peony have unusual color combinations and stable flower stalks, but are completely unsuitable for propagation by seeds. All other peony varieties also have some difficulties with breeding in this way. In particular, such a feature as distortion of varietal characteristics is noted, and flowering begins no earlier than after five years.

Grow peony at home: collecting seeds

The peculiarity of peony is the resistance of seeds and roots to weather conditions; in particular, the crop tolerates frosty winters and rainy autumns. However, this feature also has a drawback - the seeds are extremely difficult to germinate. According to statistics, only 10% of all seeds that were initially selected correctly can produce results. All the rest either take a very long time to germinate (after 3 years), or after flowering it turns out that the peony looks different from its parent.

However, if you put in a little effort and correctly approach this procedure for growing peonies from seeds, the result will be the ideal peony specifically for your area. Acclimatization will have a positive effect on all other flowering characteristics that are not predetermined by varietal characteristics.

In order to grow a peony from seeds, you need to collect light seeds from the seed pod. It is important to pay attention to such a factor as the maturity of the seeds: too ripe, brown seeds with an ideal smooth and hard surface, which are literally sown on the ground on their own, will germinate only after three years, and bear fruit after 5 years. As a result, you can wait for your first flower in 8 years.

Growing sprouts from peony seeds

An important point for peony seeds is the need to carry out the stratification process (hardening). Without a complete hardening process, the seeds will not be able to germinate, and therefore it is recommended after collection the necessary seeds peony plant them in the ground at a depth of 5 cm from the surface. For example, if such manipulations are carried out at the beginning of September, the stratification process will proceed correctly.

You can also carry out the following process at home:

1. soak the seeds in a steep solution of potassium permanganate for 12 hours in the refrigerator;
2. steam the peat with boiling water;
3. pierce holes in the pot, plant seeds;
4. Germination occurs within 2 months.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to place the container with soil in the lowest section of the refrigerator for 2-3 months.

Germinating peony seeds in warmth

There is another option for germinating seeds - the thermal method. To do this, you also need to soak the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate for 12 hours. After this procedure, you need to apply warm seed stratification:

1. put wet sand with compost at the bottom in a container;
2. preheat the container on the battery or using a heating pad to 30 degrees;
3. sow seeds in the ground;
4. warm up the seeds with a bowl in a warm place for 6 hours (on a radiator) so that the soil temperature is approximately 30 degrees;
5. place the container in a cool place (18 degrees) for 4 hours;
6. repeat such changes so that the period of warm exposure is a total of 60 days.

After two and a half months, the seeds sprout. To check whether the seeds have enough moisture, you need to lightly press the seed: if moisture appears, then it is enough, if not, then you need to moisten the soil.

Planting sprouts in the ground

Seeds are planted in the ground in the spring. Over the summer, only a small stem and just one leaf can germinate. The seed hole should not be more than 5 cm into the ground. A sufficient amount of watering, compost, fertilizers - this is all that needs to be provided young plant in the first year. There is no need to dig the roots out of the ground; just cover them with a thick layer of soil, compost and leaves. In the second year of growth, already formed trunks appear, which form a bush.

Transplantation to a permanent place should be at the end of August. It is worth remembering that the plant does not like constant replanting, and therefore it is necessary to take care of the location in advance. The first flowers that appear on the bush will need to be cut off in order for the peony to form larger buds. Watering at any time of the year is plentiful, fertilization is a must autumn period. You can additionally fertilize in the summer.

Peony lovers know that the flower is propagated by dividing the rhizome. The plant organ itself falls into pieces or is divided with a knife. Planting material kept for several days and then planted in the soil. Meanwhile, the plant also reproduces by seeds.

Disadvantages and advantages of the method

The seed propagation method is rarely used because it has disadvantages:

• the properties of the variety are not preserved;
• the share of decorative seedlings is small - 10%;
• some varieties do not produce fruit - for example, crowned Mont Blanc, Madame Forel, terry Celestial, Marchal Mac-Mahon;
• Flowering will begin no earlier than the 5th year of the seedling’s life.

But this method also has its advantages. Despite the loss of varietal qualities, it will be a different plant, unlike other specimens.

Peony grown from seeds receives increased immunity from adverse environmental influences.

For planting, you can use both fresh and dry fruits.

Germination of fresh seeds

The seeds ripen by the end of summer. For planting, choose light brown specimens, not hard, full, with a healthy shine. You need to have time so that the carpels do not open and the seeds do not dry out, otherwise shoots will appear in 2-3 years.

The collection takes place no earlier than August 20 and no later than September 15. These terms are due to the fact that stratification is necessary.

Stratification refers to measures when the seeds are created with conditions for better germination and kept at low temperatures. Cold puts the embryo into sleep, without which germination is impossible for some plants, including peonies.

Selected seeds are planted in the ground to a depth of 5 cm immediately after collection. If this is done in August and early September, the stratification process will take place completely.

Not all seeds germinate, and this does not always happen at the same time. Some shoots appear in the spring, another part - a year later.

Stratification at home

The seeds are kept for 12 hours in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. The substrate (preferably peat) is steamed with boiling water. For 1 part of seeds, take 3 parts of the substrate and put the mixture in a pot with holes in the bottom. The soil should not be too wet. Germination lasts 2–2.5 months.

Every week the mixture is poured out, stirred, and if necessary, moistened. When the seeds become elastic and do not crumble, the humidity is reduced so that when squeezed into a fist, the soil retains the shape of a coma.

After the warm period has passed, the dishes with the mixture are placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator and stored for another 3 months.

If it was not possible to sow immediately, then the seeds can be placed in the refrigerator until next spring, but they will germinate in a year.

Germination of dry seeds

Seeds for planting can be purchased. Pay attention to appearance material: wrinkled, dry indicates long-term storage and decreased germination. To increase this indicator, the seeds are soaked in water for two days at room temperature. It is advisable to carry out scarification first - carefully file or scratch the peel of the fruit so as not to lose the seeds.

Stratification

In this case, stratification is also necessary.

Warm period

The soaked seeds are planted in damp sand poured into a wide bowl and placed on a warm surface. The first days are supported high humidity so that the seeds swell. It’s easy to check if there is enough water: if you squeeze the mixture, drops appear.

A heating pad or battery is suitable for this during the heating season. For 6 hours, the sand is heated to 30 °C, then kept at 18 °C for 4 hours. The process is repeated many times, moistening the soil in the bowl as needed. The duration of the “warm” period is 60 days. At the end of the period, the seeds take root.

Cold period

The sprouted seeds are carefully removed from the container and the root tip is pinched. Prepare a mixture for planting - mix peat and river sand in equal parts. The seeds are sown in a container and sprinkled with soil in a layer of 5 mm, no more.

• tо - +5…+10 оС;
• humidity - up to 10%.

In such an environment, the seeds remain until the first leaves appear.

First year

In the spring, sowing is done in open ground, immersing the seeds 4–5 cm deep. Over the summer, one leaf up to 4 cm high appears in this place.

In addition to sufficient watering, the young plant needs feeding. To do this, prepare a solution of urea, or carbonic acid diamide (50 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water). To prevent the soil from drying out, the area around the plant is mulched with peat.

To prevent the peony from freezing in winter, it is protected with dry leaves, spruce paws, and lutrasil (a special garden covering).

Second year

Next season, the bush is transplanted to a permanent place, no later than August. It should be borne in mind that peonies do not like frequent transplants.

Dig a hole with a diameter of 70 cm and the same depth. The bottom is loosened and drainage is arranged - brick chips, sand, small crushed stone are suitable. Then fill the hole according to the following scheme.

The plant is planted so that the place where the stem meets the root (root collar) is flush with the soil surface. The roots are carefully straightened, the soil is not compacted - it will settle on its own. Add soil to the surface of the pit.

The first buds after transplantation are plucked. This is done so that the plant lays large buds.

Selecting a location

To plant a peony, choose an open area, well warmed by the sun, but protected from drafts. It’s not scary if there is light partial shade - the culture tolerates it well, especially during the day. You should avoid heavy shading, as flowering will be sparse.

An area near buildings and other structures is not suitable, as they heat up and cause dry air and soil. Neighborhoods with other plantings are also avoided, since then a deficiency of moisture and nutrients occurs.

Peonies feel great on all types of soil intended for garden crops. But best soil- cultivated loams with drainage. The medium should be slightly alkaline - pH 5.8–7.0. Acidic soils pre-alkalinize by adding 200–300 g of lime to each planting hole.

The deeper the soil is cultivated for planting, the deeper the roots will grow, the better the plant will be nourished.

It is important to know the level groundwater. If they flow higher than 90 cm, then the flowers are planted on high bed or additional ditches are installed nearby to drain moisture.

Top dressing

The first two years do not fertilize. The bush has enough nutrients, which are placed in the hole when transplanting. In subsequent years, in April, horse or cow manure (rotted), mixed with nitrophoska (100 g/m3), is scattered around the bush. Then they dig and cover the soil with a layer of humus.

After 2–3 weeks, feed the plants with liquid fertilizer prepared according to this recipe:

• mullein infusion - 10 l;
• phosphorus fertilizers - 40 g;
• potash fertilizers - 20 g.

This portion is designed for 3–5 bushes.

The last time of the year, fertilizing is carried out after flowering. To treat 1 m2 of land, mix:

• 10 l clean water or the same amount of mullein infusion;
• 15 g potassium sulfate;
• 25 g superphosphate.

The first year, two foliar feedings are carried out - first in May, then in June or July. Mineral fertilizers, diluted in water, the bush is watered from a watering can with a fine sieve or sprayed.

For May treatment, prepare a solution of 50 g of urea and 10 liters of water. For June, one tablet of complete microfertilizers is added to the aqueous solution of urea. Next year, the peony is fed three times, but for the third procedure, two tablets of microfertilizers are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Experienced gardeners foliar feeding It is recommended to add a tablespoon of grated laundry soap to the fertilizer. Thanks to this, nutrients stay on the surface longer.

Watering

Peonies need well-drained soil, especially in May, before flowering, when buds form and young shoots grow. At insufficient humidity In spring, abundant watering is carried out every 7–10 days.

But excess water is dangerous, which leads to rotting of the roots and stems at the base.

After fertilizing, watering or rain, loosen the resulting crust and mulch trunk circle. Thanks to this, the need for water is reduced, gas exchange improves, and weed growth is reduced.

Difficulties and illnesses

Immediately after transplantation, peonies become sick and look dried out. Don’t worry about this and rush to throw away the plant. At the end of the growing season, new shoots will appear from adventitious buds, which are located at the base of the stems.

A typical disease of peonies is gray rot. It develops from waterlogged soil, in heavily shaded places, from excess nitrogen. They fight gray rot by cutting the stems at a height of up to 15 cm. Diseased shoots are immediately burned. The right time for this is April.

Growing a peony from a seed is easy and realistic if you follow the advice of experienced gardeners. With effort and patience, you can achieve excellent results. And then, after three or four years, a new resident will appear in the garden, who will delight the eye with its flowering and aroma.

Video - How to grow peony from seeds