The most beautiful options for finishing the basement of a house in photo examples. The best option for finishing the foundation is cladding Stone base of a wooden house

Protecting the basement from moisture is a necessary and primary task when forming the basement of a house. The base is the connecting link between the above-ground structures of a structure and its fundamental underground foundation. The strength of the base largely determines the stability of the entire structure. During the construction process, it provides the necessary surface for the construction of facade walls. In the future, its main function will be protection from penetrating atmospheric and ground moisture.

Meanwhile, the very foot of the house suffers most from dampness and becomes the most vulnerable point in the structure. It takes on the consequences of heavy rains and melting snow, leading to destruction. Therefore, waterproofing the base is necessary; in addition, it requires careful attention to the choice of protective equipment that can adequately withstand the aggressive action of water.

Means and methods for protecting the basement of a house from moisture

Basement waterproofing.

When choosing materials for waterproofing the base, it is necessary to take into account that work is carried out in two directions:

vertical protection, which involves applying a coating to the wall surface;
horizontal protection - laying waterproofing between the walls of the basement and the foundation.

Horizontal insulation of a house can prevent the penetration of capillary moisture into the above-ground structures of the building. It is implemented using rolled materials. The most common among them are roofing felt and roofing felt. Roofing felt has a cardboard base, so when choosing it you should understand that you cannot count on a long service life.

Modern roofing felt coatings are more effective. They are made of elastomeric bitumen, and the role of the supporting layer is performed by polyester non-woven materials or durable glass fiber.

Vertical is very variable and can be performed using various methods of waterproofing treatment.

Spreading involves the use of bitumen and its analogues. The thick consistency of the material makes it possible to achieve a thick protective layer on the surface of the house. However, this material does not have high strength indicators. It is too unstable to mechanical damage. Innovative building materials, such as liquid glass, are much more durable and efficient.
Protective varnishes and paints are used for painting. The advantages include affordability and simplicity of the application process.
The impregnation process is based on the use of liquid polymers and synthetic resins.
Pasting allows the use of a wide range of rolled waterproofing materials.

When choosing a product that will help treat the plinth, it is necessary to take into account compatibility with the building material used to construct the plinth.

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Penetrating waterproofing

The advantage of penetrating waterproofing lies in the fact that it is able to penetrate 90 cm into the thickness of concrete. It moves along the same cracks and capillaries through which moisture could move. Having penetrated into the thickness of concrete, the material reacts with the components of concrete.

Penetrating waterproofing fills all the small cavities of the concrete structure of the house, due to which the material gains strength (the strength of concrete increases by 20%). The chemical composition makes it resistant to acids, alkalis and petroleum products, in addition, it is not subject to mechanical stress.

Clean the surface from dust and construction debris. Dilute the dry powder in water, following the instructions on the package, stir the mixture thoroughly until homogeneous. The mixture must be applied to the moistened surface of the concrete structure. Apply the first layer of penetrating waterproofing to the base, and after it has dried, apply the second. Experts recommend waterproofing with penetrating materials using synthetic brushes or a special mortar pump. The basement of a house can only be treated with this type of material at temperatures above zero.

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Rolled adhesive waterproofing

Roll materials mean bitumen, polymer and synthetic waterproofing. The material is glued to all base structures of the house. Typically, external walls are covered with several layers of waterproofing. If the house is located in an area with a lot of groundwater, then the number of layers can be increased to five.

Layers of insulation are glued to the outer walls of the basement, overlapping them. This type of insulation is not resistant to damage, therefore, at a distance of 1 cm from the surface of the waterproofing layer, a half-brick brick wall is erected or a reinforced concrete block is installed. The space between the protective wall and the waterproofing is filled with bitumen mastic. Installation work can be carried out at an ambient temperature not lower than 10°C.

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Coating waterproofing

When protecting the surface of the base from moisture, it is worth paying attention to the coating materials that are applied to the internal and external surfaces. If the mastic is applied from the outside of the wall, moisture is prevented from penetrating into the room. There are several types of coating materials: bitumen mastics, cement-polymer waterproofing, polymer-bitumen mastics.

Bitumen-based mastics are the most accessible, but have a short service life. After operation for 5 years, under the influence of low temperatures, the bitumen material is destroyed, and external moisture will penetrate into the room.

Cement-polymer and polymer-bitumen waterproofing is more resistant to frosty conditions. When installing them, it is necessary to ensure protection from mechanical damage. Clean the surface, apply mastic in several layers depending on humidity and dry the structure.

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How to protect a brick plinth from moisture

Performed in several ways:

lay brickwork pre-treated with waterproof impregnation in the factory;
use bitumen lubricant applied to the surface in several layers;
cover with roofing felt;
apply a building mixture of a special penetrating composition.

The latter method is based on the action of the active components of the mixture, which, once they get into wet microcracks or pores, clog them with their own crystallization.

Finishing the basement, on the one hand, is simpler than the facade: there are no special aesthetic and architectural subtleties here. The base can harmonize or contrast with the overall design of the building in tone, texture, and type of material used, see fig. Eager pedants just need to point to the Erechtheion, the Roman Baths or any of the Gothic cathedrals - and let them say what they want.

Examples of finishing the basement of private houses

For small individual construction, the false plinth option is also of particular interest (photo below right in the figure): the strip protruding foundation is finished without any complaints, as long as it lasts for a long time, and the wall belt above it imitates a high plinth. This allows you to fully concentrate technically on the correct arrangement of a very critical place in the entire structure of the house - the junction of the wall with the plinth (foundation protrusion); in particular, on the ebb tide device, see below, without compromising the appearance of the house.

On the other hand, the cladding of the base is subjected to intense exposure to chemical (atmospheric moisture, dirt, organic matter from the soil), physical (temperature and humidity changes) and mechanical abrasive agents (wind-blown grains of sand). The concentration in the air of dust, dirt and splashes of solutions of soil components depend on the height above the ground according to a power law and within 50 cm from the ground they fall relative to the zero height of the building by 10 times or more. Therefore, both the materials for finishing the base and the methods of working with them require a more careful approach than for finishing the facade.

Thirdly, finishing the base with stone or other durable, resistant and heavy material almost always does not cause any technical difficulties, because the height of the base usually does not exceed 80 cm; in extreme cases - up to 2 m, for a house with a basement, and the basement itself is made of durable materials, otherwise it simply will not bear the weight, climatic and operational loads. So the material for cladding the base can be chosen, limited only by financial considerations.

Work order

The basement of a residential building is clad in the order of work at the final stage of construction - exterior finishing. In general, the finishing of the basement of the house is carried out in stages in the following order:

A trench is dug under the blind area with a depth of approx. 30 cm (on the bayonet of a shovel) or 15-20 cm deeper under the blind area with insulation;
A sand and gravel cushion is placed in the trench, and optionally, insulation is also placed;
The base is rough finished in order to level its surface;
A blind area is being built;
Decorative finishing of the base is carried out;
Only after this does all other work on the exterior decoration of the building begin, incl. façade cladding.

It is not recommended to violate this sequence, especially for inexperienced amateur builders, but in some cases, discussed below, this is possible, for example. if the basement of an existing building is being covered or repaired. In this case, the design of the base plays a decisive role in the complexity of the work and the possibility of using one or another finishing material.

Base and low tide

Finishing the base of a private house with regard to the choice of material and method of its installation largely depends on the design of the base itself and its cast. The junction of the load-bearing wall with the plinth is the most likely place for moisture to penetrate into the gap between them, causing the walls to become damp. The waterproofing doesn't let it in from below, that's why they put it there. But the water flowing into the walls can also leak under the wall along the same waterproofing, this is the so-called. capillary damming. To prevent this, a low tide is installed above the base.

Base design options with low tide

Possible design options for a base with low tide are shown in Fig. If the base sinks (pos. 1), you are in luck. A simple single flashing is installed between layers of insulation; if there is a teardrop groove (dropper) knocked out at the bottom of the wall extension, pos. 1a, then capillary damming of the walls is excluded. But then either the wall should be 2.5 bricks thick, or the basement floor should be slab, pos. 1b. Budget developers avoid the last option - it’s a bit expensive - but in vain: then, during the operation of the house, the slab floor more than pays for itself. Moreover, on, in fact, the second foundation of the house, you can build a lighter and cheaper box. Also in this case, you can build from foam/gas blocks, then lining the house with brick, which looks solid and is inexpensive.

More often, however, there are houses on a protruding plinth, pos. 2. The technology for preventing capillary damming in this case is known, this is a double ebb, pos. 2a. Its outer tray (extension) is installed upon completion of the decorative finishing of the base and facade, so that it can be changed as it wears out. For reliability, silicone is applied to the surface of the rim (upper bend, fold) of the tray adjacent to the wall before installation.

Now on sale there are “eternal” ebbs made of propylene or stainless steel; their durability exceeds the estimated service life of residential buildings of conventional construction. With an “eternal” ebb, the task of keeping the wall dry is simplified: the base is completely finished, and the ebb is placed on the wall before facing it with a moisture-proof material, for example. waterproof plaster, clinker or thermal panels with glue. The rim of the ebb turns out to be walled up in the façade cladding, pos. 2b, and water will no longer flow under the wall.

Note: The same methods for installing a low tide are applicable for houses on a base flush with the wall, although in general a “flat” base is bad in all respects.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, the ebb as such is abandoned, replacing it with a brick cornice. This is possible, but the facing brick on the cornice must be taken so-called. hyperpressed (hyperformed), the eaves-drip seams should be rubbed flush, and the masonry mortar and grout should be waterproof and moisture-proof with polymer additives. In amateur conditions, you can prepare them with your own hands by adding 1-3 cups of PVA or polymer tile adhesive such as bustylate to a cement-sand mortar from M200 and grout for external use. You can also use glue for porcelain tiles or clinker (terracotta) tiles.

Hyperpressed brick is often falsified. The real one can be recognized by its uniform structure, the absence of visible inclusions and the even dark color of the matte or semi-matte surface, the so-called. “chocolate” bricks, pos. 3. On ordinary (quite suitable for their purpose) facing bricks that form a cast, after a winter or two the core will appear and efflorescence will begin to appear, pos. 3a, which means break the basement cladding and redo the ebb while the wall is frozen.

Finally, wooden houses are built almost exclusively on protruding plinths: the minimum permissible width of the foundation strip here turns out to be greater than the thickness of the wall, and it is impossible to place a log house or frame on a concrete slab for a number of reasons. In this case, the ebb can only be double; its options for a log or timber and frame house are shown in pos. 4 and 5. In a log/timber house, the fastening of the rim of the outer tray is sealed with silicone; in a frame house this is not required, because The wall cladding also serves as a teardrop.

Note: in all cases of using double ebb, the distance between the eaves of the inner and outer trays should be at least 10-12 mm at any place.

Preparation for cladding

The most difficult and time-consuming part of the work on finishing the base is leveling its surface for cladding; the base can be made of rubble stone, concrete blocks (possibly old, crumbling at the edges) or the above-ground part of the concrete foundation. In this case, the easiest way to prepare it for cladding with your own hands is to plaster it with cement-sand or cement-lime starting (rough) plaster for exterior work. You can make your own knead using the hydrophobic method described above (PVA, bustilate, etc.).

Leveling the surface of the plinth for lining with starting plaster using a reinforcing mesh.

To level with plaster, the base is treated with a deep penetration primer on the appropriate material (stone, brick, concrete), large protrusions are roughly knocked down, patching is done as needed with cement-sand mortar and a steel reinforcing mesh with a thickness of approx. 4 mm, see fig. I use a plaster solution that is thick and does not float; The layer is 1.5-2 mesh thickness. Rub it smoothly with a polisher immediately, without waiting for it to set. After setting, check the evenness with a lath (the norm is 3 mm/m), rub and re-coat as necessary. It is advisable to first make a separate plot of 1-1.5 square meters. m, after that the “teapot” with its hands from where it is necessary will at least put the start quite level under the cladding.

Materials and technologies

Materials for cladding the base, as stated above, must be resistant to thermal, chemical, mechanical influences and abrasion. Modern materials for finishing the plinth, depending on the price and complexity of the work, are generally divided into the following classes:

Painted waterproof plaster is the simplest and cheapest option. It is best suited for a low, up to 40 cm, base, the finishing of which is still not clearly visible. Maintainability is limited, because It is difficult to choose paint for a patch that exactly matches the existing one.
Artificial stone - in terms of complexity and cost, covering the base with it is comparable to plaster. The appearance is 3+ or 4–, but tracing the corners is much simpler, see below. Maintainability is complete.
Natural (wild) stone and facing brick - lining the base with them can be inexpensive and does not require much labor, but if the base and blind area are insulated, the complexity of the work increases many times, also see below. Maintainability is very limited: it is very difficult to remove the damaged fragment(s) without disturbing the cladding over a sufficiently large area.
Flexible stone – in terms of the combination of parameters price/quality/appearance/technical capabilities, it has no equal. Finishing the base with flexible stone is also possible in a budget option. Maintainability is complete.
Basement siding - depending on the region, it can be cheaper than plaster, and in appearance it is superior to artificial stone (not natural!). Correct installation is not difficult, but requires certain knowledge and skills. Maintainability is complete, but repairs are quite labor-intensive.
Basement cladding panels (not façade!) are somewhat more expensive than base siding with the same decorative qualities, but lack its weak points (see below). Maintainability is limited for the same reasons as with wild stone and brick.
Clinker (terracotta) and porcelain tiles are the most expensive and labor-intensive, but the most resistant and durable option. If you need a plinth surface to look like a noble polished stone, then porcelain stoneware is practically the only option at a reasonable price.

Plaster

There is no point in finishing the base with a beautiful, but not very durable finishing decorative plaster in this place. It is best to simply paint the rough base for finishing with alkyd enamels for exterior use. Yacht enamels will cost a little more, but will last much longer. The option is still a little more expensive, but even more durable and absolutely waterproof - the so-called. latex acrylic paints or acrylic emulsions; When dry, they give a layer similar to thick rubber, only colored.

The plastered plinth can be immediately finished to look like stone using silicone stamps. A set of stamps costs about 500 rubles, but you can make them yourself. In general, plastering a plinth under a stone is carried out as follows:

Select samples (models) of natural stone of any type of suitable size and more or less matching along the contour, without overlap, up to 12-15 mm thick.
For each model, a plywood or plank box is made - flask - with sides 2-3 cm higher than the stone.
The models are generously soaked in mineral oil (you can use engine oil) and dried for 2-3 days.
Next, the models are lubricated with Vaseline (lanolin), each is placed in its own mold and filled with silicone. Before doing this, the inside of the investment rings also needs to be coated with Vaseline.
After the silicone has hardened, the flasks are disassembled, the models are pulled out from the stamp blanks (don’t be afraid to pull, silicone is stretchable and durable) and the stamps are cut with a knife along the contour with an allowance for the width of the seam.
A layer of thick mortar up to 16 mm thick is applied to the base prepared as described above and stamped immediately until it sets.
Once the coating has completely hardened, it is painted.

Fake diamond

Finishing the basement of the house with artificial stone.

Cladding the base of a house with artificial stone, despite all its mediocre advantages, is good for budget developers in that the forms for the corner elements (see figure) can be made independently. Corners are the weakest points of the cladding; this is where masonry seams begin to crack and moisture under the cladding creeps exactly where it shouldn’t. They mount artificial stone on a plinth or similarly to natural stone without insulation, or on tile adhesive like tiles (see both below),

Methods for making artificial stone with your own hands are described in other materials; Any type suitable for paving paths will be suitable for the plinth. You can also make homemade artificial stone for cladding the base from the same plaster mortar. The working process differs from the production of stamps for stone in that it is not necessary to select models so strictly by thickness and that the casting mass is tinted in advance, which makes the color more durable; see video below. The technology for making artificial stone from plaster with your own hands is not strict; different options are possible here.

Wild stone and brick

The natural stone for cladding the base should be chosen to be heavy, with low moisture absorption, i.e. not susceptible to frost. Shales, sandstones, limestone, dolomite, travertine and tuffs are definitely not suitable. The best are granite, diorite, diabase, basalt, gabbro and other rocks that can withstand at least 1000 cycles of complete freezing/thawing. Given the current climate changes, this is not so much; in Central Russia in the off-season there can be a full cycle every day.

The technology for cladding a plinth with natural stone depends significantly on whether it is insulated or not. Without insulation, the matter is simpler; you just need to fulfill the following conditions (see figure on the right):

Note: Don't be afraid of moss and lichen on a stone plinth. They will not spoil the stone at all, they will only add chic to the house. Mold and efflorescence (salt stains on soaked and then dried out areas) are the bad things. But on the stones of the above-mentioned species, both do not happen.

Finishing the base with facing brick differs from facing it with wild stone, firstly, in that the masonry joints make the thickness of 10-13 mm normal for brickwork. Secondly, the masonry mortar must be waterproof with a plasticizer (see above), because Moisture likes to linger in the seams of brickwork and dirt accumulates. Thirdly, it is very, very advisable to use hyper-pressed brick, as for brick casting, see above.

Facing the base with natural stone and brick becomes seriously more complicated if the walls, foundation and base are insulated. Then not only does the heavy cladding have nothing to hold on to, but there is also a danger of capillary moisture penetrating into the insulation. What type of work is required to avoid both can be imagined by looking at the diagram of stone cladding of an insulated base in Fig.:

Scheme of stone cladding of the base with insulation

And the matter will become even more complicated if the basement of an existing house is covered, because... the retaining wall will shrink. In this case, it is better to cover the stone base with siding, panels, and, if you want the high cost to immediately catch your eye, with tiles. But first, let's finish with stone materials.

Flexible stone

Flexible stone in some sources is presented as a kind of “flexible tile on polymer resins.” Apparently, those authors remember the old Soviet flexible facing tiles, which, as they say, have been around for a long time. That's where it belongs: polymer tiles dried out, contracted, cracked, and quickly wore out in heated rooms.

Flexible stone for finishing and cladding

The binder of the flexible stone is indeed synthetic resins, but not the mythical “polymer” ones, but polyester and urea, but the essence of this material is a textile base sprinkled with stone chips. The advantages of flexible stone as an external facing material are truly magnificent (see figure):

Safe, environmentally friendly, chemically and mechanically resistant, chemically neutral.
Estimated service life is over 150 years.
Easy to process, can be cut with scissors.
It shines through, you can hide the illuminators behind the cladding or even make a street lamp from flexible stone, which during the day, when turned off, will be a sculpture to match the decoration of the house.
Available in an innumerable variety of unique textures and colors, completely consistent with natural ones, both solid and torn, with intervals to imitate masonry joints.
The flexible stone can be used to trace curved surfaces and corners without any problems.
There is no façade, plinth, external or internal flexible stone; it is suitable for all types of finishing work. The same material can be used to decorate the base, window and door trim, balcony, cornice, etc.
Finishing the base of a house with flexible stone on a difficult terrain (uneven slope, etc.) costs 7-20 times less than cladding with any other material comparable in decorative qualities and durability.
Careful preparation of the surface for flexible stone is not required. If the unevenness does not exceed 10-12 mm, the flexible stone is simply laid on tile adhesive (the minimum layer above the protrusions of the base is 2 mm). Otherwise, the potholes are roughly covered with cement-sand mortar. Which in any case won’t hurt to save expensive glue.

Flexible stone has only two disadvantages: it is rough; There are no glossy or semi-gloss (polished) finishes. Then, the base for the flexible stone needs to be strong, so you can’t glue it directly onto the insulation or SMP (see below), you first need to prepare the plaster base, as described above.

Siding

Basement siding panel

The base of the house is covered with special base siding, which is more wear-resistant and durable than façade siding. Basement siding is available in PVC and propylene. The former is cheaper, brighter and can be glossy; the second one is more stable. Externally, basement siding differs from facade siding in that it is made not of boards, but of slabs with tongue-and-groove joints with snaps, see fig. Therefore, it is possible to file the basement siding to size only at the corners, and the seam must be covered with a standard additional element. The basement siding is mounted on a horizontal sheathing made of wood or steel profile using hardware (screws).

Siding cladding is the least labor-intensive way to finish a stone base at an affordable cost; it also makes no difference whether the house is old or new. But the “law of free cheese” is adamant here too: serious problems with covering the base with siding are, firstly, damage to the sheathing, secondly, the accumulation of moisture in the cavities under the sheathing, and thirdly, the settlement of insects and rodents there. As a result, the cladding is not so cheap and simple due to the difficulties with the blind area.

The general installation diagram for basement siding is shown in Fig. below; drainage is highly desirable in fairly dry areas. Installation of basement siding is carried out after the blind area has been completely arranged. At the bottom and at the top, deformation gaps of 10-15 mm are left, which are foamed, sealed with plastic glue recommended by the manufacturer (for example, CM14) and covered with additional elements (plinth, cornice).

Basement siding installation diagram

However, each manufacturer of plinth siding struggles with the problems of its product in its own way, which, by the way, indicates that there is no optimal solution yet. Therefore, if you choose siding for the plinth, then:

Ask the supplier or search the manufacturer’s website for the material specification and make sure it suits your conditions (temperature range, annual precipitation, soil properties, plinth design and material, building design).
Use extensions, sheathing material, fasteners and sealant of the recommended types.
Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions exactly.
In no case do not skimp on the starting and finishing bars: moisture, dirt, mice and spiders with their relatives are just waiting for that.

Panels and slabs

Finishing the base with panels is somewhat more complicated and more expensive than siding, but does not have its disadvantages, because There is no sheathing with its pockets; the panels are installed with glue. Metal composite panels, however, are mounted on the sheathing, but they are rarely used for finishing private houses because of their utilitarian appearance. Most often, the base is finished with facade thermal panels with clinker stone overlays and polyurethane insulation; they are quite suitable for this purpose. The paneled base looks no worse than under the siding. Thermal panels are mounted on the base in the same way as on the facade; surface leveling to an unevenness of 3 mm/m is required. Insulation is obtained automatically.

You can also find recommendations to finish the base with glass-magnesite plates (GMP), but this is far from the best option: GMP are fragile and have little resistance to abrasion and soil chemicals. On the outside, at resorts, the facades of rental houses are sometimes finished in a half-timbered style with high-quality SMP (on the right in the figure), but such cladding lasts for 10-15 years, and during this time it is necessary to make 2-3 cosmetic repairs.

Glass-magnesite panels (GMP)

In private construction, SMP is sometimes used as permanent formwork for a towering strip foundation, which, in general, is good in all respects except price. In this case, the SMP above the ground can be prepared for finishing, as described above, only the mesh fasteners need to be taken longer so that the screws sit in the base. And then natural stone and brick as finishing for the base disappear: under the weight, the cladding will peel off along with the plaster and mesh.

Tile

Tiling the base is a poor man's solution left over from Soviet times. The porous material absorbs moisture, and the glaze loses its appearance due to the appearance of microcracks and the influence of grains of sand. The plinth is finished with either clinker (terracotta) or porcelain tiles. Covering the base of an existing house with tiles is technologically no different from that during the construction process, which is a definite advantage. But in both cases, the work is very labor-intensive and requires fairly high qualifications: the base surface is leveled and its patching repairs are carried out. Then the base is primed with a deep penetration primer. The tiles are placed on glue (layer - 2-3 mm) in sections 1-1.5 m long. Immediately, before the glue has set, the tiles are fixed with crosses or other dividers (see figure), otherwise the cladding will slip. Separators are also placed at the bottom; a gap of 10-12 mm is needed there, which is subsequently sealed with the same glue. The next section is coated after the glue on the previous one has hardened.

Tiling the plinth

Note: It is impossible to prepare the surface for tiles using the method described above (mesh + plaster), otherwise the lining will peel off.

If you still want to decorate your base with tiles (it looks rich, nothing can be said), then it is better to cover it with porcelain stoneware. Firstly, the hardness of porcelain stoneware is comparable to the hardness of sapphire and corundum; it doesn’t care about sand. Secondly, strong inorganic acids, except hydrofluoric and fluorine-antimony, do not affect porcelain stoneware. Thirdly, porcelain stoneware is produced in slabs up to 30x60 cm, so the work won’t be such a hassle. Fourthly, it is possible to split porcelain stoneware on a solid base and with a sufficiently elastic layer under the tile only with a shot from a rifled weapon; Buckshot fired from a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun from a distance of 15 m flattens and bounces. Fifthly, porcelain stoneware slabs are also available with a glossy surface, almost indistinguishable from polished stone. Sixth, due to the low TCR (thermal expansion coefficient), porcelain tiles on the plinth can be laid “without a seam”, i.e. with a seam 1-2 mm thick, which enhances the decorative effect.

And more about the stone

Let's look again at what types of stone are suitable for cladding the base. Yes, this is... a heavy boot! Fractionated broken stone is not cheap, but if you order a dump truck of solid rubble and sort through it yourself, you will find enough pieces to build a stone plinth, and, smaller ones, to later fill the recesses between large fragments. So, while building, as they say, tightly on a budget, also consider the option of a stone base. There is no need for cladding/finishing as such, but with 100% natural stone any house will look solid.

The basement is the lower part of the facade of the house. The main purpose of the plinth is to provide reliable protection of the facade from all kinds of dirt and various types of damage. It is for this reason that the structural element in question must be made of reliable and durable materials. At the same time, the lower part of the house should be beautiful. To solve this problem, you can use a wide variety of materials. At the same time, finishing the base can be done with your own hands without any problems.

Regardless of what kind of material you decide to use to finish the plinth with your own hands, before starting work, the base must be cleaned of any kind of dirt and carefully leveled. To eliminate depressions, use a special leveling solution. Knock down protruding parts in a convenient way.

The surface of the base must be impregnated with a priming emulsion. Without such treatment, the base will absorb moisture from the adhesive solution, which will not have the best effect on the reliability and quality of the cladding.

Some finishing materials, for example, artificial stone, must be treated with special water-repellent compounds before installation. They will help reduce the water absorption rate of the finishing material and increase the resistance of the cladding to various contaminants.

A large selection of water repellents are available for sale. These are colorless solutions, for application of which you can use rollers, brushes and other convenient tools. On a cladding treated with a high-quality water repellent, moisture will simply flow down without being absorbed into the finish and leaving no traces on it.

The base with such cladding looks very much like a wall made of simple clinker bricks. But the tile has significantly less weight and is much thinner compared to the mentioned brick. The thickness of the tiles usually varies from 8 to 20 mm. The width and length are most often the same as that of clinker bricks.

First step. Determine your starting level. To do this, add the width of the future seam to the width of the element, and then divide the height of the base being finished by the resulting value.

To make the calculation principle more clear, consider the following example. The height of the base of the house is 400 mm. The width of the tiles used is 65 mm. Seam width – 6 mm. In total you will need to glue 6 rows of clinker tiles. The starting level must be set 26 mm down from the planned ground level.

This will leave approximately a 6mm gap above the last top row of cladding. You will fill it with polyurethane or acrylic composition.

Second step. Lay the cladding over the entire surface. Lay out in even horizontal rows. For fixation, use an elastic adhesive solution with frost-resistant properties. Apply the solution with a notched trowel to both the base and the tiles.

Do not cover a large area with glue at once. It dries on average in 15-30 minutes. Usually in this time it is possible to cover about 1 m2 of the base. Leave the finished cladding to dry for about 2-3 days.

Third step. Fill the joints with an elastic mortar designed specifically for clinker jointing. The composition must have frost-resistant properties.

Such tiles do not require treatment with water repellents etc.

The finished cladding will be somewhat recessed into the surface (after appropriate finishing of the external walls), so there is no need to install a cast cornice.

Stone cladding has a chic appearance, but requires significant financial costs. Most often, limestone or sandstone is used for plinths. The most expensive and luxurious option is marble or granite cladding.

Finishing elements can have very different sizes and textures. At this point, be guided by your taste. Sandstones and limestones require pre-treatment with water-repellent compounds.

The procedure for tiling with stone is very similar to tiling and is carried out in a few simple steps.

First step. Determine the lower level of stone fastening. The calculation is the same as in the case of covering with the previously discussed tiles.

Second step. Apply a stone bonding solution to the previously cleaned base. The same solution must be applied to the reverse side of the cladding elements. Use strict glue to fix the stone. The use of other compounds will cause cracks in the finish and very quickly lead to peeling of the tiles.

Select the width of the joints in accordance with the size of the tiles. Leave seams of half a centimeter between small cladding elements. A 2mm joint is sufficient between large tiles.

Third step. Fill the seams with a special jointing compound. Make sure that the composition is frost-resistant and sufficiently elastic.

If the plane of the base protrudes against the background of the general plane of the house, be sure to install a protective eaves. Without it, your cladding will begin to crumble after the first frost.

Externally, this material is as similar as possible to its natural counterpart. Special additives and various types of fillers make it possible to obtain finishing materials with excellent performance and properties, and dyes allow you to select a cladding that fits perfectly into the landscape.

A large selection of materials is available for sale in various forms that imitate a wide variety of materials.

The cladding is carried out in almost the same way as in the case of tiles.

First step. Apply the adhesive composition to the previously cleaned surface of the base and directly to the cladding. You can use elastic or regular glue. Select the specific composition in accordance with the recommendations of the artificial stone manufacturer.

Cover the entire surface. You can make the seams as narrow or wide as you like.

Second step. Fill the seams with a solution specially designed for this purpose.

Third step. Coat the finished cladding with a water-repellent compound. Also, cladding elements can be subjected to this treatment before they are mounted on the wall - there is no difference. Thanks to this treatment, even after a few years the finish will look almost like new.

At the end, all that remains is to install the ebb to protect the base from precipitation.

This is a relatively new finishing material. Externally it can imitate “torn” stone and decorative brickwork. Such tiles are characterized by low weight, which allows them to be successfully used even for cladding structures with low load-bearing capacity.

The cladding in question is characterized by fairly good plastic properties, which eliminates the risk of cracks and various chips. The tile is resistant to moisture and negative temperatures. Pre-treatment with moisture-repellent compounds is not necessary.

First step. Attach the sheathing elements to the previously cleaned base. Assemble the sheathing from wooden slats. Select the pitch between the slats in accordance with the sizes of the cladding elements used.

Second step. Fill the cells of the sheathing with thermal insulation material. If insulating the base is not part of your plans, you don’t have to do the sheathing either. In this case, the tiles will be attached directly to the wall.

Third step. Start attaching the polymer sand tiles from the bottom corner of the base. Use screws to secure. Attach the tiles to the sheathing or wall material of the house, depending on the chosen installation method. Cover the entire base.

An additional advantage of using polymer sand tiles is the possibility of laying insulation simultaneously with the cladding.

Externally, this material can successfully imitate sandstone or clinker brick. The big advantage of such tiles is their surprisingly small thickness - 3 mm. The material is characterized by good flexibility; it can even be used for cladding arched bases. Also, such tiles can be safely bent at the corner joints of walls, which greatly facilitates the work.

If necessary, the tiles can be easily cut using scissors. It can be glued to plaster, concrete base and even insulation. The tile can have a corrugated or smooth surface. Good selection of colors available.

First step . Determine the top level from which you will begin installing the cladding elements. The best option is to lay a whole number of tiles. Therefore, determine how many horizontal rows of tiles you can glue to your base, determine their total height, and then subtract the smaller value from the larger value. This way you will determine the required gap.

Set aside the required gap from the top edge of the base. Finally, you will fill the remaining gap with acrylic or other suitable composition.

Second step. Start gluing the tiles. Start installation of elements from the corner of the base. Apply the glue with a notched trowel you already know. Glue 4 rows of cladding at once in one go.

You don't have to fill the seams. The protruding glue will perfectly cope with the functions of the filler. You just need to carefully distribute it along the seams using a brush.

Third step. Protect the tiles from rain. To do this, the cladding can, for example, be covered with plastic film. The protection can be removed after the glue has completely dried, i.e. in 2-3 days.

Externally, such cladding is practically no different from finishing with natural materials, and it costs much less. To protect the base, be sure to install a rain cornice (flash).

Such plaster compositions have a granular structure. The grain size can reach 3 mm and even a little more. After applying the solution, a pattern is formed on the wall, similar to a multi-colored mosaic. The function of the binding component is performed by the resin. Thanks to it, the finish simultaneously receives vapor-permeable and moisture-proof properties.

Mosaic plaster is not afraid of frost and various mechanical damage. It is prohibited to apply such a composition to heat-saving and lime plasters. A base made of various artificial materials will also not work. The best base option is concrete and other substances based on mineral components, gypsum, cement and, of course, lime-sand plasters.

First step. Prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions. Also prepare a tool for applying the composition - a stainless steel grater.

Second step. Start applying plaster from any convenient angle, preferably from above. The layer must have the same thickness. The immediate thickness of the finishing layer should be equal to the size of the grains contained in the plaster.

The applied composition must be smoothed with a grater before it dries. The plaster is applied and rubbed down strictly in the same direction.

Third step. Treat the coating with a high-quality water repellent.

Finishing 1 m2 of plinth can take up to 8 kg of plaster mass. The specific consumption depends on the size of the crumbs.

Thus, the finishing of the base can be done using a wide variety of materials. At the same time, there is absolutely nothing complicated in arranging any available cladding. All you need to do is follow the instructions and be attentive to the procedures performed.

PVC panels are excellent for cladding small cottages and country houses. Plastic goes especially well with siding. PVC panels are light in weight, easy to process and do not cause any hassle during the installation process.

First step. Fix the lath to the wall. It can be metal or wood. Choose the material that is more convenient and easier for you to work with. The wood must first be impregnated with an antiseptic. Select the sheathing pitch in accordance with the size of the panels.

Second step. Proceed to attaching the panels. Start covering from the bottom of the base. To attach the cladding panels to the sheathing, you can use self-tapping screws or even liquid nails. Adjacent planks are fastened together with factory tongues and grooves. Cover the entire surface.

Siding (PVC wall panels)

Third step. Cover the upper border of the plinth with a special overlay profile.

Fourth step. Cover the corners of the plinth with corner pieces.

Additional treatment of the cladding with a moisture-repellent composition is not carried out. For cladding, you can use panels of different sizes, choose to your taste.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself plinth finishing

The base of a house made of brick or concrete needs reliable protection from destructive environmental factors. Such protection is not always provided during the construction of a building, and often owners are forced to install it themselves. We will tell you how and with what to cover the base of a brick house.

Why is it necessary?

Designs of brick houses with a basement often involve using this floor as part of the living space of the house. This means that the basement will be connected to the heating system, therefore, in case of poor thermal insulation, energy losses are inevitable.

Moreover, the maximum losses will occur through the above-ground part of the walls of the basement gap. The floor in the basement is located quite deep underground and does not freeze in winter due to natural insulation by an infinitely thick layer of earth. The ceiling is also protected by the warm ground floor, and heat does not escape through it.

Only the walls of the basement masonry remain, and here the purpose of their cladding becomes clear:

The finishing coating allows you to protect the plinth masonry material from moisture penetration. The basement, located at the very bottom of the structure, is most susceptible to contact with water, which penetrates from the thickness of the concrete foundation, flows down the walls of the house during rain, contacts the masonry in the form of snow drifts, enters in the form of splashes bouncing off the ground, etc.;
Brick houses with a basement require high-quality insulation, and the insulation, in turn, requires finishing and protection. Here we see the need for a durable and reliable cladding that will hide the thermal insulation and protect it from wear and damage;
The plinth structure is subject to heavy loads, since the entire house presses on it. In addition, if the basement is unheated, then its walls may freeze, and the accumulated moisture will expand and damage the structure of the material. Therefore, it is better to protect the masonry from moisture and frost using appropriate finishing;
The proximity of the ground leads to various types of debris, dirty splashes of rain, dust, etc. falling on the lower part of the wall. Porous brick or concrete absorbs all these substances and becomes dirty. The presence of a durable coating makes this problem insignificant, since the dense surface of the facing material is easy to clean.

It also often happens that projects of brick houses with a basement contain such a scheme in which. The above-ground part of such a foundation does not fit well with the brickwork of the walls and needs to be lined with suitable material.

Important! Finishing the base is needed not only as a decorative element, but, to a greater extent, as a functional protective structure that protects the masonry from premature wear and aging.

Types of finishes

The options for finishing the basement of a brick house are very diverse. The construction market is overflowing with all kinds of materials and technologies that can be used for these purposes. In addition, natural raw materials are widely used, including various types of natural stone, sandstone, pebbles, etc.

Of the modern technologies, the most in demand are such varieties as ventilated facades, siding, blockhouse, metal profiles, stamped concrete, ceramic facade tiles, porcelain stoneware and others.

As practice shows, laying natural materials such as marble, granite, pebbles or sandstone requires extraordinary abilities and extensive experience, which means you will have to hire expensive craftsmen. At the same time, the price of the stone itself is also very high, and as a result, facing work can be too expensive.

Based on these considerations, we have identified the most practical and affordable methods for finishing basement masonry:

Ventilated facade. The coating made of porcelain stoneware and other relatively natural materials looks great;
Siding. Easy and quick to install, relatively cheap and perfectly imitates all types of natural coatings;
Metallic profile. The cheapest and simplest coating, at the same time quite durable and reliable, although not entirely aesthetic.

Important! The use of modern facade systems allows not only to reduce the cost of work, but also to place a layer of thermal insulation under the coating, which is very important for the base.

Installation of cladding

Let's start installing the cladding. We will work with our own hands; the material we use is polymer-sand plinth tiles, which are attached using ventilated facade technology ().

We put the walls of the basement in order, eliminate cracks and other defects, remove all protruding objects;

We mount the frame guide profiles. We use a galvanized steel profile measuring 28x67 mm. It is important to maintain a strictly vertical position of the surface of the frame structure, and place all its parts in the same plane;

We install the frame.

, as a rule, protrudes above the ground. This part must be decorated not only for aesthetic, but also for practical purposes. We will look at the six most popular options with detailed installation instructions.

A strip foundation is a concrete mixture with metal or crushed stone and gravel filler. Firstly, such a surface looks unattractive, even if its edges are perfectly smooth. And they are rarely even, depending on what formwork was used when pouring. Usually there are traces from shields and.

Based on this, we designate the tasks of finishing the plinth:

it must protect the pouring surface from the scorching rays of the sun and winds;
the cladding hides not only all the imperfections of the foundation, but also the layer;
and finally, the decorative cladding should be consistent with the overall look and decorate the building.

Basics of self-finishing the basement of a private house

Before we talk about how to cover the base of a house from the outside, let's focus on the basics. First, installation of the cladding can be dry or wet. In the first case, the material is attached to or directly to the concrete surface using fasteners. The second option requires the installation of lathing and the use of building mixtures.

The second important point is that you need to take into account the climate of your region.

It is important that the casing of the base does not absorb water and does not allow it to pass to the surface. Another nuance is that the cladding should not lose its qualities under the influence of reagents used in winter.

Advice! Taking into account the operating conditions of the facing material, its choice must be approached with full responsibility, trusting trusted manufacturers who guarantee the quality and durability of the product.

Features of the selection and use of natural stone for cladding the base

Natural stone is considered the most respectable and expensive finishing material. Construction professionals recommend not using loose rocks, such as shell rock and limestone, to decorate the base. They will soon lose their presentable appearance.

Dense frost-resistant material, preferably dark in color, is suitable for this purpose.

Igneous gabbro and granite are best suited in this regard.

Important! When finishing with natural stone, an important condition is reliable sealing of joints and seams. If defects are allowed, moisture will seep through the cladding and destroy the base.

Features of choosing natural stone for exterior decoration

Natural stone must match in color and texture. But besides this, there are other requirements. If the stones themselves are very heavy, they need additional fasteners for strong fixation. It is also important to know that silicate rocks (quartzite and sandstone) are incompatible with carbonate rocks (marble, limestone). Their chemical components react with each other. The result is gradual mutual destruction.

Master class on plinth cladding with natural stone

Now let's see how the whole process looks in practice.

Illustration	Description of action
	A metal mesh must be secured to the surface of the base. It will firmly fix the solution.
	Pre-lay out the torn stones for the plinth on the ground in the order in which you will place them on the vertical surface. Natural stone does not have two identical parts, so you need to assemble the cladding like putting together a puzzle.
	The parts that will be on the bottom and top need to be cut so that there is a straight line. Use a special stone cutting wheel for this.
	To cover the base with natural stone, prepare a solution of sand and. The consistency should be quite dense. It is better to wet the stones a little before installation.
	To form gaps between stones, insert wooden or stone choppers. Start laying from bottom to top.
	After the stones are firmly fixed to the base, remove the chokes and fill the gaps with mortar.

The nuances of facing the base with artificial stone

Artificial stone will cost you much less than natural stone. This feature attracts many developers. In addition, the artificial material has regular geometric shapes, and this greatly simplifies the laying. All you need to do is trim the tiles a little in the corners using a grinder.

Attractive with a variety of shades, shapes and textures:

This stone has less weight compared to natural stone, so less mortar is required. Modern artificial materials are not inferior to natural ones in moisture resistance and durability. Their only drawback is their slightly unnatural appearance. But now you can find collections that can only be distinguished upon closer inspection.

How to choose an artificial stone for a plinth

Don't try to buy the cheapest material. As a rule, its quality leaves much to be desired. It is best to use stones cast in silicone molds; they most accurately imitate the natural texture. Before paying for the shipment, study the color of the stones: the paint should not bleed into other shades. The stones should not have holes or cracks or inclusions of foreign particles.

The inside of the stones should have grooves for adhesion to the mortar, and the edges should have clear contours for quality joints on the wall.

Advice! Take cladding collections that contain corner stones. This will greatly simplify installation.

Video instructions for finishing the plinth with artificial stone

The technology for decorating a facade with artificial stone is not much different from working with natural stone. But there are some nuances, and you can learn about them in this video - how to finish the basement of a house with your own hands:

What is the finishing of the base with plastic panels to look like stone?

Plastic can now easily compete with natural materials. Modern components make it strong and durable. This material quite successfully imitates natural stone, and the ease of installation allows even a beginner to decorate the facade.

Advice! When choosing plastic panels for outdoor use, give preference to well-known brands. Cheap goods quickly fade and crumble due to temperature changes.

How to make the cladding of the base around the house with your own hands from plastic base panels - details in this video:

Finishing the base with siding and its nuances

Siding can be made of vinyl, polyvinyl chloride or propylene. All three of these varieties are suitable for decorating a plinth, as they are resistant to external influences and temperature changes. There is also metal siding on sale, but it is the least suitable because it is not resistant to prolonged exposure to moisture.

Learn more about how to decorate the base of a house with siding in this video tutorial:

Using facing tiles for the basement of a house

If you have not yet decided how to decorate the basement of your house inexpensively and beautifully, pay attention to the facing tiles. Not all tiles are suitable for outdoor use. It should have a non-porous structure that does not absorb moisture. You can choose the color and shape of the material that best matches the design of the facade.

An interesting point: it is not at all necessary to decorate the base with thick tiles. A standard thickness is sufficient, and there is no need to further strengthen the base.

The only drawback of this design is that it is not possible to additionally insulate the foundation with mineral wool. But there are other options, which we will discuss below.

For your information! For external tile laying, the temperature during work is important; it should not be lower than minus five degrees. Do not be fooled by advice to use winter mortars for masonry - the tiles will quickly fall off.

The photo shows options for finishing the basement of a private house with tiles:

Do-it-yourself finishing of the basement of a private house with tiles

If there is a need to additionally insulate the foundation, use this master class:

Illustration	Description of action
	Attach solid insulation, such as penoplex, to the outside of the foundation.
	Install a metal mesh on the surface of the insulation. Secure it firmly with special fasteners.
	Start laying with corner elements. Place them with the required gap of at least 1 cm.
	After the corners, start fixing the remaining elements. Make light vibrating movements when pressing the tile so that the solution penetrates the mesh cells.
	After the masonry has become, fill the seams with mortar and finish with a jointing tool.

Cheap and cheerful: finishing the basement of a private house with corrugated sheets

Is there an answer to the question of how to inexpensively decorate the basement of a house from the outside? For budget construction, corrugated sheets are an indispensable material. It will reliably protect the foundation from moisture and temperature, and also hide