Insulation and vapor barrier of a bathhouse. Vapor barrier of the bath - for water procedures in ideal conditions. What is chosen as a vapor barrier layer for a bath?

The bathhouse has its own microclimate, which creates steam, which contributes to better comfort for hygiene procedures. The properties of steam differ from simple room temperature air, including density and pressure. The durability of the building depends on a well-designed vapor barrier, no matter what materials are used for construction. Experts recommend following 6 tips for arranging a vapor barrier in a bathhouse.

Features of the technology

To perform vapor barrier, simple technology is used. To make a ceiling vapor-tight, you must adhere to a certain scheme. On the rough boards you need to attach a roll of waterproofing (polyethylene film) or a special water barrier, which can be fastened with an ordinary stapler. The insulation is laid as a second layer. Its tasks are as follows:

• minimize steam leakage through ceiling cracks;
• cause heat to move from cool objects to warm ones gradually;
• minimize the impact of outside air on indoor temperature.

It is difficult for one insulation to cope with the functions assigned to it. Absolutely all brands of material are negatively resistant to moisture. This also applies to the most used option - mineral wool.

install a vapor barrier.

It is recommended to leave a gap

Vapor barrier of walls

No material can compare with the latter in terms of thermal conductivity. But if water constantly gets on it, over time it becomes lumpy and stops performing its intended functions.

An important point is to protect the insulation from getting wet from the outside and inside. This task will be performed by a vapor barrier, which does not allow hot steam rising to the ceiling to moisten the insulation. To do this, for example, the same foil is attached to the top of the material.

Using a vapor barrier in a steam room

The duration of maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room depends on the quality of the vapor barrier on the ceiling. The resulting steam rises to the top of the room and tends to escape outside. Along the way, it must meet the insulation and moisten it. To prevent this, install a vapor barrier.

The heating of the air in a steam room often rises to 100 degrees, or maybe more. At this temperature, polyethylene film quickly deteriorates, shrinks and bursts. For vapor barrier, modern heat-resistant materials with existing foil are installed. For example, stizol. It also performs good insulation , successfully holds high temperature and generated moisture. This is an excellent option for ceiling insulation.

The material used is secured with upholstery nails, you can fasten it with slats, use double-sided tape, etc.

When installing vapor barrier material It is recommended to leave a gap between it and the surface of the building frame for ventilation. When using the steam room, the foil becomes covered with condensate that forms, which negatively affects the structure of the bath. With the help of ventilation, this phenomenon is quickly eliminated.

Also, to remove condensation, it is necessary to make gutters inside the ceiling and along the entire perimeter of the walls, maintaining the slope. The condensate receiver chute can be placed directly on the floor of the steam room.

An important requirement is to seal the seams between vapor barrier panels. This is done using adhesives and mastics; you can use construction tape to join the waterproofing.

It is necessary to lay insulation under the vapor barrier. During construction, you need to work from the outside, and when performing repairs, you need to make insulation as the first layer, and then secure the foil. Not only mineral wool can serve as insulation, but also many different materials, from clay to modern polystyrene boards.

Installation is carried out in a slightly different way: the sheathing is attached to the boards, a step along the width of the vapor barrier. Then the material is nailed to the wall, and the seams are sealed with construction tape.

Next, clapboard is stuffed onto the sheathing - for example, from larch. The lining of deciduous trees looks attractive and does not emit the smell of essential oils when heated. The gap between the lining and the foil forms an air gap that provides ventilation and prevents condensation.

Properly applied steam and heat insulation will effectively maintain the created microclimate in the bathhouse and will make your visit enjoyable.

Properly executed vapor barrier of the bathhouse provides the room for water procedures with the necessary humidity and air temperature. In addition, it protects this structure from premature aging.

Is it necessary to protect the bathhouse from exposure to steam?

The service life of structures and buildings made from any modern construction material depends on a number of factors, many of which have an extremely negative impact on the elements of the structure. It is very important to neutralize them already at the stage of creating a construction project. Everyone knows that high temperature and humidity are mandatory attributes of a bath.

When a person takes water procedures, they have a beneficial effect. But for the construction itself, it’s the other way around. Over time, moisture destroys the ceiling and walls of the bathhouse. These phenomena should be combated with the help of measures that provide high-quality protection from steam. It is worth considering that the baths consist of several compartments, characterized by their own level of humidity. The most moisture is always found in the steam room, where, in addition, very hot air circulates.

Slightly less water vapor in the shower room. And the “dryest” room in the bathhouse is the room for relaxation and rest, but even there the moisture level is always quite high. Materials for vapor barrier measures are selected so that the most reliable of them are installed in the steam room. But less effective means of steam protection can be used in the rest room and shower. This will save you money, and at the same time you will be able to make a high-quality vapor barrier with your own hands.

As a rule, bathhouses these days are lined with wood materials on the inside. Through the cracks in such finishing, hot steam will penetrate to the insulation with each wash, destroying both it and the structure itself.

To avoid this, they perform a vapor barrier, installing it between the heat-insulating layer and the wooden sheathing. The walls and ceiling of the building need protection from steam. They are the ones who are susceptible to the negative effects of high humidity. Floors also require protection from condensation and water. But here we are no longer talking about vapor barrier, but about other operations - waterproofing and.

Vapor barrier materials – which ones to choose?

The walls of the bathhouse can be protected with any traditional and more modern materials. The main thing is that they perform their task effectively. The easiest way to do a vapor barrier on walls with your own hands is to use an inexpensive polyethylene film. Firstly, it is completely waterproof, and secondly, it reduces the time required to heat the steam room.

Unfortunately, polyethylene deteriorates very quickly due to high temperatures in the bathhouse. Therefore, it makes sense to install films made from it as a vapor barrier only in a relaxation room after taking bath procedures. Moreover, it is allowed to use only polyethylene material that does not have seams formed when folding it. It is along these seams that the film literally begins to creep apart during operation. This problem can be solved (for a while) by gluing the folds of polyethylene with heat-resistant tape. But even in this case, the polyethylene vapor barrier will not last long.

The rest room in the bathhouse can be protected from steam with special construction cardboard - the so-called kraft paper. It has a high density, which makes it possible to slow down the process of moisture penetration into the walls. But, having been saturated with steam, it will also spread out and will have to be changed again. Some craftsmen perform vapor barrier with roofing felt, pieces of glassine and roofing felt. Theoretically, such materials are suitable for protecting bath elements from high humidity, but when the temperature rises, they release substances harmful to our body. And the “aroma” emanating from such vapor barriers leaves much to be desired.

Professionals advise using modern materials when carrying out protective measures in all bath rooms. These include:

• Aluminum foil. It does not emit unpleasant odors or harmful compounds when heated, and easily perceives elevated temperatures without changing its shape. It is placed overlapping on the walls of the bathhouse, connecting the joints between individual strips of material with heat-resistant tape.
• Vapor barrier films of different brands. They are truly innovative materials for protecting baths from moisture. Below we will take a closer look at films under the brand Izospan, which have recently become increasingly in demand both among construction professionals and among those who like to do housework with their own hands.
• Foamed foil polymers. They are also very popular, being an innovative combination of two materials at once - aluminum-coated foil and a foamed polymer compound. This vapor barrier is ideal for wall insulation. But it is not recommended to mount it on the ceiling - it may well melt under the influence of high temperatures.

We will consider materials for ceiling vapor barrier below.

Izospan - excellent protection for walls

Branded products Izospan began production in the early 2000s. This brand belongs to a Russian company Hexa. At the moment the films Izospan to protect rooms with high humidity, they are sold in all CIS countries, receiving extremely positive reviews from consumers. The line of vapor barrier films under this brand includes different materials.

The leader of consumer liking is considered Izospan FB– foil vapor barrier based on durable kraft paper, to which metallized lavsan is additionally added. This unique material can be used at temperatures above +100 °C. It has special characteristics due to which it can reflect thermal energy and at the same time serve as an excellent vapor barrier.

Izospan FB guarantees: a significant reduction in heat loss in the steam room through the roof and walls; protecting the ceilings and walls of the bathhouse from moisture. Vapor barrier Izospan FB From an environmental point of view, it is completely safe. The material has all the certificates indicating its high efficiency and absolute harmlessness to human health. Other combined materials of the brand are also worthy of attention. Izospan. They can be used to protect against steam in saunas and baths, as well as other rooms with high humidity.

Pay attention to the following brands of films:

• FX– complex vapor, hydro and thermal insulation, made of metallized film and 2–5 mm polyethylene foam filled with gas bubbles.
• FS– a material made from non-woven polypropylene raw materials, which is covered with a metallized layer. It perfectly protects the structural elements of the bathhouse from steam penetration into them, and also protects them from moisture and reflects thermal energy.
• FD– high-strength material made of woven fabric on a polypropylene base.

It’s good if the vapor barrier of the bathhouse ceiling is carried out using the innovative films described above ( Izospan or another company). But even they are not always able to withstand the “attack” of heat and hot steam in steam rooms. Therefore, the “old-fashioned method” is often used - the ceiling is coated with a mixture of sawdust and ordinary clay. This composition has excellent resistance to steam, and when exposed to heat it becomes very hard (essentially hardened).

You can also equip the bathhouse ceiling with fiberglass - a material that does not break when bent at different angles. Experts also recommend creating a “pie” of different materials on the ceiling so that you can be absolutely sure of its protection from steam. It is done this way:

• lay fiberglass fabric on the rough ceiling surface;
• pour a mixture (in a liquid state) on top of the fiberglass, which includes equal parts of sawdust, sand and clay;
• on top add a mixture of liquid clay (one part) with vermiculite (three parts).

After this, you should wait some time (in autumn and spring - about 2 months, in summer - about 14 days) until the “pie” dries, and then lay a polymer heat-resistant material on it and fill it with cement mortar with foam chips.

Vapor barrier of walls is much easier. The scheme in this case is as follows:

• Lathing is installed on the wooden cladding of the walls of the bathhouse. Here you will need to correctly calculate its step. It should match the width of the film that you will use as a vapor barrier material.
• The selected vapor barrier is attached to the sheathing. This procedure is carried out with tape, sewing through thin slats, nailing with small upholstery nails - the specific fastening option is indicated in the instructions for the material that you are using as insulating material.
• All seams are carefully sealed (usually adhesive tape is used, which is not afraid of elevated temperatures).

Now you need to fill the wood paneling and enjoy the optimal microclimate in your bathhouse.

When completing the construction of a house, you should think about vapor barrier. It is this that protects the rafters and other wooden structural elements in the attic from the formation of condensation, which causes the wood to deteriorate. In addition, moisture is an ideal environment for the growth of fungus and mold. Based on this, it becomes clear that the use of vapor barrier when insulating the ceiling is an extreme necessity. If you do this kind of work without involving specialists, the costs will be minimal.

The lifespan of a house without major repairs is influenced by factors such as weather conditions, quality of building materials, steam and water. Vapor barrier materials save from premature aging and destruction of wooden structures. They can also serve as insulation. However, such an energy-saving layer still requires additional thermal insulation materials.

With proper calculation and the right choice of material, in just half an hour, laying a vapor barrier on the ceiling will become commonplace. It will seem like you've been doing this your whole life. It's no more difficult than laying a carpet on the floor. Only in the first case does the material need to be overlapped and secured to the ceiling. In addition to the fact that such insulation greatly prolongs the performance of wooden structures, it also helps to save a significant portion of funds on heating.

Which side should I lay it on?

Anyone who decides to use a regular uniform film can lay it on either side. It is also possible to insulate wooden floors with polypropylene vapor barrier membranes. On one side they are perfectly smooth, and on the other they are covered with pile. It is this side that they are laid on the floors.

The accelerated process of condensation formation on attic structures is facilitated by temperature changes. This does not apply to any premises, but to kitchens, bathrooms, baths. The same applies to country houses. They draw moisture from the ground, which in warm rooms turns into steam and rushes upward. Installing a ceiling vapor barrier using modern materials will help prevent undesirable developments.

How to mount it correctly?

Correct installation of the most popular vapor barrier materials:

• Izospan. Consists of two layers. One side is rough, the other is smooth. It is pressed against the wooden floor with the pile facing towards the reinforcement. It is necessary to retain condensation, preventing it from settling on attic wooden surfaces. Thermal insulation is laid on the smooth side.
• It is better to fasten the vapor barrier to the ceiling with metal brackets, but you can also use nails. Pieces of hard cardboard measuring 5x5 cm should be placed under the caps.
• Membrane materials. They work with them according to the pictogram printed on the surface.
• Penofol. Foamed polyethylene, on one side of which foil is glued. In the middle is high-strength long-fiber kraft pulp paper. Placed with foil towards the ceiling.
• Polypropylene film. Consists of two layers - rough and smooth. Mounted like isospan.
• Metallized film glued to foil. Placed with film towards the insulation.
• Microperforated membrane. This multilayer material contains polypropylene and spunbond. The marked side should face the insulation.
• Polypropylene. Its basis is a smooth laminate. The other side is wicker.

Watch the video on how to properly install a vapor barrier on the ceiling at the end of the article. It shows step-by-step work with similar materials. From the film you will learn how the tool that drives staples into a vapor barrier material works.

After completing the preparatory work, the actual installation begins. First you need to determine which side to lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling. If you plan to use a material that is not on the list, then always point the rough or fleecy side indoors.

Today, you can make a ceiling vapor barrier quickly and without extra costs. Detailed information and step-by-step instructions are mostly found on the Internet, although you can do without them.

The insulating layer is installed in accordance with the selected material. In particular, roll insulation is usually laid overlapping, not forgetting to seal the joints with adhesive tape. Insulation is placed on its smooth side.

Not all owners of country houses yet know which side the vapor barrier is laid when insulating the ceiling, although there is more information on the global network than is required. The location of the rolled strips below the required level prevents the penetration of moisture and steam into the attic. Some homeowners attach this material to pre-prepared galvanized profiles, while others prefer wooden sheathing or simply slats. The main thing to remember is that violating the integrity of the materials is completely unacceptable, otherwise all the work will be in vain. If ruptures are detected, they should be immediately sealed with tape or other adhesive tape.

The price of a vapor barrier for a wooden ceiling can vary from several hundred to several thousand rubles. It all depends on the material itself, its weight, length, etc. However, buyers always have a choice, since manufacturers offer a fairly wide range of such products. A video will show you how to work with this or that vapor barrier for a ceiling in a wooden floor. After watching it, you can quickly insulate the floors without qualified help.

For such work you will need a minimum set of tools and auxiliary materials:

• Metallic profile.
• Wooden slats for sheathing.
• Wood saw.
• Construction stapler and staples. To save money, you can use nails.
• Self-tapping screws and galvanized screws.
• Metal scissors.
• Double-sided and regular tape.

If the family budget does not allow the use of expensive vapor barrier material with a reflective mirror surface, then you can buy a regular but reinforced polyethylene film. At a low price, it is incredibly effective.

How to correctly lay a vapor barrier on the ceiling: which side to lay, laying and installation when insulating the ceiling, how to attach (video), PROceilings

Features of ceiling vapor barrier

One of the main issues in building a house is its insulation. As a rule, insulation is selected based on the design features of the building and the availability of the material, including financial. An important point in insulating a building is protecting the insulation from moisture. Moisture under the influence of temperature differences inside and outside the building evaporates and condenses on the walls and insulation. As a result, the insulation can deteriorate, and mold and fungi form on the walls.

A vapor barrier is used to protect the insulation and building structure. The correct vapor barrier device will ensure ventilation of the insulation and preserve the entire structure. The choice of vapor barrier depends on the insulation device - external or internal, the type of insulation and the condition of the building elements.

Types of vapor barrier

Let's look at what vapor barrier materials exist and how to choose them correctly. Depending on the purpose, materials are divided into vapor-permeable and impermeable. All materials on the market can be divided into several types:

• polyethylene or polypropylene film, including reinforced film. Such films do not allow water and steam to pass through, they protect wooden structures well from dampness, but they will not breathe, that is, they will lose one of the attractive qualities of wood;
• polyethylene laminated film with aluminum coating. This film insulates and reflects heat. Mounted with aluminum coating indoors;
• diffusion membrane. This insulating material usually has several layers. The choice of the number of layers is influenced by the degree of humidity in the room. The membrane is capable of allowing air to pass through and not moisture to pass through. The cost of membranes is quite high;
• polymer films with foil coating, for example, penofol. These materials, in addition to vapor barrier properties, act as insulation. Place with foil inside;
• Roofing felt can be used for external vapor barrier.

To vapor barrier the ceiling of a wooden house, diffusion and superdiffusion membranes cannot be used. Their purpose is water and wind protection; they are used for thermal insulation of roofs and external walls.

As a rule, the walls of a building are covered with a vapor barrier, but it is equally important to protect the floors and roof structure, since the main movement of water vapor occurs from the bottom up.

Protecting floors and roofs allows you to preserve wooden structures from the negative effects of moisture, prevent the formation of rot and mold in them and, accordingly, increase their service life. In addition, heat loss through the ceiling is reduced.

Laying vapor barrier on the ceiling

The ceiling consists of several layers, each performing its own important role. The attic floor is laid on top, designed to protect the structure primarily from dust penetrating from above. The floor can also be used to move around the attic space for maintenance. The floor rests on the floor beams through counter beams. A layer of heat-insulating material, rolled or in the form of slabs, is laid between the floor beams.

Under the insulation from below, a rough ceiling is attached to the beams - a flooring made of boards. To increase the reliability and durability of the structure, the rough ceiling should be treated with an antiseptic. After drying, you can begin laying the vapor barrier. An important question: which side should the vapor barrier be laid on? Laying is done with the smooth side facing the insulation or the foil side towards the room. Each subsequent layer is laid with an overlap of 150-200 mm, the overlap on the walls is 200 mm.

The seams are taped with Izospan SL adhesive tape or double-sided tape. Laying should be done freely, with slight sagging, to avoid damage due to temperature deformations. The material is attached to the subfloor using a stapler. Finally, the vapor barrier is pressed against the rough ceiling with a lathing made of wooden beams (video). In areas adjacent to the walls, it is necessary to seal using self-adhesive film.

Vapor barrier of the attic

It is also advisable to install a vapor barrier in the attic. First, a layer of thermal insulation - roll or slab - is laid between the floor beams. The most popular insulation is mineral or stone wool. Then a layer of vapor barrier is laid (roofing felt or roofing felt can be used). Laying is done with an overlap of about 10 cm. The seams are taped with adhesive tape, the material is fixed with stainless nails, for example, galvanized. Then counter beams are filled to secure the material and then the floor of the attic can be laid.

Correctly selected vapor barrier material and laid in accordance with the instructions will reliably protect the wooden structures of the building.

How to properly install a vapor barrier on the ceiling: features

Let's figure out which side to lay the vapor barrier on different surfaces

Without a vapor barrier, the service life of the insulation will be short. Moisture will penetrate the layers of material and slowly destroy it. This property is especially important during the cold season, when the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is significant.

For this reason, a volume of steam is formed in the house, which must leave it without obstacles. In order to correctly carry out the installation of materials that prevent the accumulation of moisture, you need to know which side to lay the vapor barrier.

Preparatory work for laying vapor barrier

Vapor barrier will increase the operational capabilities of the building

During the preparatory work, it is necessary to make a choice of the material that will be used in the vapor barrier.

Today, the market for materials suitable for moisture protection offers various options that are suitable for work on floor slabs, ceilings, under the roof, on walls or even on the floor:

• When installing vapor barriers on wooden structures: ceilings, walls or floors, it is preferable to use films with a membrane designed for such cases.
• For floors made of any material - mastics based on polymers and bitumen.
• The universal “Izospan” is suitable for ceilings, various surfaces of walls and floors; it perfectly insulates structures from moisture and condensation accumulation.
• For concrete or wooden walls, foil, polystyrene foam, and mega-isol are suitable.

If the surfaces are not properly prepared, the vapor barrier will not be effective. The complex of preliminary work depends on the specific material from which the house is built, the walls, floor or ceiling are erected, as well as on whether it is planned to construct a new building or major repairs to a dilapidated one.

Surface preparation options depending on the material:

• If a wooden house is being built from scratch, then first it is necessary to impregnate all parts of the structure with special insecticides; this is important for the subfloor, ceiling and walls. It is also worth using impregnations against fungi, mold and fires. When this work is completed, you can do the vapor barrier.
• During major renovations, outdated floor coverings and all layers of insulation are dismantled. All surfaces are cleaned, impregnated with products, and only then a layer of material is applied to protect them from moisture.

Concrete buildings do not require separate surface treatment with special substances; it is enough to clean the walls, floor or ceiling.

Vapor barrier helps prevent the formation of mold, mildew and rot in wooden buildings. Installation does not require great skill; it is enough to properly prepare the surfaces and know a few nuances of the work.

We put a vapor barrier on the ceiling

During work, the question very often arises, which side should the vapor barrier be placed on the ceiling and how to lay it correctly? You will find the answer to this question in this article.

First, you need to determine where the front and back sides of the vapor barrier are. Typically, vapor barriers have a smooth side and a rough side. A more uneven surface always faces the insulation layer, while a smooth surface always faces the outside.

If in doubt, you can take a small piece of material and cover a mug of hot water with it. Condensation will settle on the side that remains waterproof.

Instructions for installing vapor barrier on the ceiling

Before starting work on the vapor barrier of the ceiling, it is necessary to clean all irregularities that do not exceed 5 mm, then clean it from dust and dirt, and then prime it and dry it.

The installation of the material depends on its characteristics; most often, vapor barriers are installed indoors on the inner surface of the ceiling or ceiling.

If the climate is such that in winter the temperature can drop to low levels, and the walls are not too thick, then it is recommended to install a vapor barrier inside and outside.

• Vapor barrier material is usually attached to the surface using a stapler.
• Special attention should be paid to the corners; the material should slightly overlap the walls around the perimeter of the ceiling.
• The material must be whole; the use of several pieces is not allowed. It is important that the edge of the canvas overlaps the corner.
• When laying a vapor barrier film, its surface should be as stretched as possible. It is placed only after the insulation layer has already been laid.
• The film, which is laid between the ceiling beams, is secured using nails with a special wide head; a distance of about 30 cm must be maintained between them.
• The connection of the film sheets on the ceiling must be done overlapping each other. The joints are hermetically sealed using tape.

Sometimes a vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling without a layer of insulation; in this case, the film can be attached using strips of plastic or wood, which are fixed to the ceiling with screws. The step between the slats should be small, and the attachment points themselves should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm.

When insulation material is placed on top of a vapor barrier, there is no need to attach the vapor barrier layer separately. You can record everything at once.

Attaching various types of vapor barrier to the ceiling

It’s easier to insulate the ceiling with two people

Sheet vapor and thermal insulation requires a special approach during installation.

First, a special frame of profiles is installed.

These can be wooden blocks or special aluminum slats. The latter are much easier to work with, since they are designed for these purposes.

They have special grooves into which sheets are secured. To eliminate the gaps between the ceiling and the walls, it is necessary to capture a small part of the wall.

There is a type of vapor barrier made from roofing felt; this type of work is called lining. This material is laid on the prepared floor surface. During pasting, heated bitumen or mastic is used, which is applied without missing areas.

If there are joints in the ceiling or corners, then it is necessary to introduce the material with a slight overlap and secure it with nails with large heads on a special rail. The edges of the material are folded under the insulation.

If a painted type of ceiling vapor barrier is used, then most often they use bitumen-kukersol mastic, varnish or hot bitumen. The varnish must be made on the basis of chlorinated rubber or polyvinyl chloride. A layer of mastic is applied using a special sprayer.

The varnish coating is applied twice, and you must wait until the first layer has dried before applying the second.

Features of laying vapor barrier to insulation

When carrying out work, it is very important to consider which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation. If you make a mistake at this stage, the thermal insulation will not be effective.

For all film-type materials, one rule applies: the film is placed in such a way that the smooth surface is on the insulation side, and the rough surface is on the inside.

This rule is suitable for protecting walls, ceilings and floors from moisture, but only if the material has a structure consisting of two layers. When working with a vapor barrier with an aluminum side, it is necessary to place the shiny surface inside and the rough surface against the wall.

When using polypropylene material, the rough side should also face the room, and the smooth side should face the insulation. As a rule, high-quality vapor barriers have instructions and installation guidelines.

Installation of vapor barrier on the floor

Vapor barrier materials must be laid only on a prepared base. For this type of work, the optimal solution would be to use isospan. You will also need a construction stapler and adhesive tape suitable for the following purposes:

• If the film is two-layer, then its first layer is laid directly on a wooden or concrete floor.
• The material should be laid with an overlap of approximately 5-10 cm on the walls, and secured with a special tape.
• In places where the film is glued together from two canvases, it is necessary to additionally fasten the layers with a stapler. When laying, the result should be a single canvas, without defects. It should completely cover the floor area.
• Any insulation material can be placed on top of the vapor barrier: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and others. After the layer of thermal insulation, it is necessary to put a second layer of material to protect against moisture.
• The vapor barrier is placed with a smooth surface against the insulation.
• In the first layer, the rough side faces the base of the floor, and in the second layer, it faces the room.
• After the materials have been correctly laid, the main floor is installed.

When using a film with a foil side, it is laid end-to-end. To fasten the canvases, you need to use a special tape with an aluminum surface.

A layer with a metallic sheen is placed towards the room, then all the heat will be reflected from it and returned to the house.

Sometimes special rubber in a liquid state is used to vapor barrier the floor. The subfloor is prepared in advance; its surface must be dried and cleaned of dirt.

Then the mastic is applied using brushes or a roller. After time, the impregnation dries and forms a dense film that completely matches the texture of the floor.

Types of vapor barrier

The insulation is placed on the smooth side of the vapor barrier

An important step in carrying out thermal insulation work is the correct choice of material.

Not so long ago, the most popular way to protect against moisture was to use glassine or roofing felt.

Today the market is saturated with offers, and technological progress has gone far ahead - you can buy modern combined materials that are reliable and durable:

• The film is an excellent vapor barrier and prevents condensation from forming on the walls, roof and insulation itself.
• Film with a layer of aluminum foil. The metal surface has the ability to reflect heat and has excellent vapor barrier properties. This type of material makes sense to use in wet areas: bathrooms, swimming pools, saunas and baths.
• Film with a membrane - has a limited ability to transmit steam. Depending on its condition, it can change its properties. As the humidity level increases, the film begins to allow steam to pass through; in a dry state, this property is much lower.
• Mastic based on bitumen - allows air to pass through and retains moisture.

Vapor barrier materials can also be produced in sheets and rolls. Depending on this, the installation technology differs.

When using the material in rolls, they should be rolled out in the direction from bottom to top. The canvas is secured using wooden slats or profiles in the horizontal direction.

The hole for ventilation is left in the gap between the vapor barrier layer and the finishing inside; its size must be at least 4 cm. The fastening must be strong.

The vapor barrier in sheets is mounted in a pre-prepared profile frame, and then the material is installed into it from the bottom up.

Features of vapor barrier

Vapor barrier materials are necessary for normal circulation of moisture in the room. A special membrane in the film prevents the insulation from accumulating moisture. Therefore, it is very important to observe several conditions when laying the layer:

• If a membrane with wind and waterproofing properties is used, it must be in close contact with the insulation. If there are gaps, the material will cool to a temperature that will be lower than that of the steam being released. The membrane film may then become covered with a thin layer of ice and cease to be effective.
• It is necessary to provide a gap for steam removal of at least 40-50 mm. But the size may vary depending on climatic conditions. It is especially important to maintain balance for large roofs or those with an obtuse pitch, where air circulation is poorer.
• The amount of steam passing through the system should be kept to a minimum.

Vapor barrier has one important function - it prevents moisture from entering the insulation layer. But that’s not all, when silicate or polystyrene foam materials are used in houses to retain heat, the membrane will serve as a barrier to the entry of individual fibers and volatile substances into the house, which can be harmful to health.

Air does not escape through cracks and gaps in structures, and the house remains at a pleasant temperature.

Recommendations for proper installation of vapor barrier materials

Planning work on installing a vapor barrier begins with identifying the most critical areas where special attention is needed. Laying material that protects against moisture is needed where the surface becomes the boundary between warm and cold air.

Most often such places are basements, ceilings, roofs, attics, attics and walls. Wooden structures require special attention when performing vapor barrier work:

• The layer protecting against moisture must be laid with the smooth side facing the insulating materials, in this case there will be no influx of steam, rot or fungus will not begin to form, and heat will not be lost. This is especially important for wooden buildings.
• If the walls are insulated from the outside, then the vapor barrier is placed outside the room. When installing thermal materials internally, a layer of film protecting from moisture should also be located on this side.
• The most common mistake is a loose fit of the film to the insulation.
• When gluing the seams of vapor barrier sheets, it is necessary to use wide tape of at least 10 cm.
• When work is carried out in areas of window openings, they often forget to leave a small supply of film, which is needed in case of deformation or shrinkage. This should be a fold 2-3 cm in size.
• The film must be protected from exposure to sunlight; in just one season, the exposed surface can become unusable.
• To connect the joints of the film to the foil surface, you need to use metallized tape.

On the one hand, vapor barrier work does not require great skills, but there are still a number of nuances that need to be taken into account. The main condition for proper installation of the film is to install it with the correct side facing the insulation. As a rule, it is not difficult to determine the reverse and face of a material.

• Let's figure out which side to lay the vapor barrier on different surfaces

  
  Without a vapor barrier, the service life of the insulation will be short. Moisture will penetrate the layers of material and slowly destroy it. This property is especially relevant in

How to properly install a vapor barrier on a ceiling with your own hands?

• Quality materials to get the job done
• How to prepare a surface for installing a vapor barrier: instructions
• Vapor barrier during the construction of a bathhouse

Everyone studied physics at school and everyone remembers that water has 3 states: solid, liquid and gas. Ice, of course, is practically not dangerous for buildings (unless it is water frozen in the cracks of the foundation). But water and steam are enemies No. 1 of any building, be it brick, concrete or wood. Penetrating inside, moisture causes fungus, mold and other unpleasant phenomena.

Ceiling vapor barrier diagram.

All this generally worsens the atmosphere inside the building, reduces the service life of its individual parts or completely puts them out of use. And while many people know about waterproofing, only a few people think about protection from steam. It is necessary to figure out how to properly install waterproofing on the ceiling, since this is the most important thing (steam rises, which is why the ceiling will suffer from this more than other parts of the house).

Quality materials to get the job done

• membrane;
• penofol;
• polyethylene film;
• nails;
• scotch;
• furniture stapler;

Vapor barriers, depending on the application method, are divided into pasting, grouting and painting. In the construction of private houses, adhesive vapor barrier is more often used, since it is fixed to the ceiling (glued) and then does not move. Membrane, penofol and polyethylene film are suitable for pasting. Each of these materials has its own characteristics.

Scheme for laying vapor barrier film.

For example, the membrane is considered a universal vapor barrier with fairly high efficiency. This is one of the latest developments. Therefore, an adhesive side is provided (remove the protective layer, glue it - done). In some cases, a membrane with 2 adhesive sides is used. This gives maximum holding effect.

Penofol is most often used in rooms with the highest concentration of moisture and steam (baths, saunas, bathrooms). It has a foil coating that should “look” inside. And finally, plastic film. The cheapest and most commonly used material. Disadvantages - you need to leave gaps for air penetration (this will prevent condensation) and fastening with staples and nails. A big plus is its low cost and general availability in any stores. Grout vapor barrier is used mainly for walls, and paint-based vapor barrier is used for roofs.

Nevertheless, painting vapor barrier using asphalt, bitumen and varnish mastic is quite possible. In places where the ceiling adjoins the wall, part of the adjacent surface is also processed.

How to prepare a surface for installing a vapor barrier: instructions

Preparing the ceiling for laying a vapor barrier does not take much time. It is necessary to clean the ceiling surface from dirt and allow it to dry. Cover all cracks and holes, and then prime (this will level the surface). Wait for the primer to dry completely.

Attaching a vapor barrier is not an easy task. First of all, you need to decide which side to lay the material on. It is laid on top of the insulation.

The film requires tension, which is done to avoid unevenness. You can attach the film to the ceiling beams using double-sided tape. If one sheet is not enough, then the second one is laid overlapping.

Layout of vapor barrier.

The joint is sealed with tape. After this, nails with large heads are nailed at a distance of 30 cm. The vapor barrier, separately or together with insulation, can be secured with slats (wooden or metal). The frequency of screwing the slats with screws is equal to the frequency of driving nails - 30 cm. The so-called furniture stapler will also make the work easier - attaching the film with it is easy and quick. Some experts believe that this is a more acceptable option than nailing the vapor barrier.

In construction stores you can find sheet vapor barrier. To attach it, a special profile is purchased there (it is not forbidden to make it yourself). In this case, first the frame is attached to the ceiling, and then sheets of vapor barrier and insulation are inserted. Like waterproofing, vapor barrier is done overlapping the walls to avoid gaps where the walls and ceiling beams meet.

If the ceiling covering allows, you can apply varnish waterproofing. It will take 2 layers. The first layer of varnish must be thoroughly dried, and only then apply the second.

Vapor barrier during the construction of a bathhouse

The greatest need for vapor barrier occurs during the construction of a bathhouse.

Diagram of the process of installing ceiling vapor barrier.

Here it is necessary to ensure that dry and wet steam do not have a destructive effect on the materials of the walls and ceiling. If you show engineering ingenuity, then the vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse, in addition to its main functions of retaining moisture, will also perform others. For example, retain heat, create a barrier to cold air flows from outside, and prevent condensation.

Vapor barrier material can be attached to both ceiling beams and sheathing. Boards are used as the latter. In the bathhouse, it is advisable to perform a vapor barrier not only on the ceiling, but also on the walls. This applies to all rooms with high humidity and temperature (basements, saunas, bathrooms).

Now you know how to install a vapor barrier on the ceiling with your own hands. A properly installed vapor barrier will protect your home, and any other structure, from premature destruction, maintain the most comfortable indoor microclimate and prevent mold and other unpleasant phenomena from appearing.

How to properly install a vapor barrier on the ceiling: instructions

Previously, bathhouses were built only from natural wood; no additional internal or external cladding was made. The wooden walls “breathed,” which allowed them to constantly maintain optimal relative humidity values. In addition, during washing, the internal surfaces of the walls were heated to high temperatures, which prevented the appearance of dew points on them even at a relative humidity of 100%. All building structures (not only wooden ones) are afraid not so much of steam as of water, and water is condensation.

Currently, most bathhouses have interior walls lined - this is beautiful, useful and prestigious. The walls are usually covered with natural clapboard. From the designer’s point of view, everything is great, but from the builder’s point of view, there are big problems.

1. An additional “heat-protective” wall is formed between the load-bearing wall and the steam room. This is good, it minimizes heat losses, but it causes condensation.
2. Due to the low thermal conductivity of wood, the temperature difference between the lining and the wall is large. This situation needs to be looked at from two sides. The good thing is that the steam room retains heat. The bad thing is that steam easily passes into the forcing joints, and the relative humidity of the wood increases.

Now we come to the main problem. If the temperature of the lining is so high that condensation does not form given the existing humidity, then the wall temperature is below the dew point. Condensation forms on cold walls and is absorbed into all materials of external walls: wood blocks, brick. Due to the fact that natural ventilation between the sheathing and the wall is almost completely absent, water does not evaporate. As a result, the wood begins to rot, the red brick crumbles, and the concrete materials transfer moisture through micropores to all adjacent structures.

Prices for vapor barrier

vapor barrier film Yutafol

Vapor barrier and wall insulation

But these are not all the reasons why you should use a vapor barrier. Let's touch on the issue of insulating the bathhouse. Insulating the outside is a waste of money and time. Until the insulation “shows its effectiveness,” no one will wash in the bathhouse. The heating time for the sheathing and walls is several hours. Only then will the internal heat “reach” the insulation outside the external walls and it will be able to “work”. The effect will no longer be during the heating of the steam room, but during its cooling after washing. To “enjoy” the effectiveness of external thermal insulation, you need to stay overnight in the steam room.

This means that for steam rooms, insulation needs to be installed only inside. But here too a problem arises. Most often, mineral wool, glass wool or polystyrene foam are used as insulation. The latter is not environmentally friendly and emits harmful chemical compounds, especially during heating. Sanitary authorities categorically do not recommend using it for steam rooms. What remains is mineral wool or glass wool.

Mineral wool has two “unpleasant” properties. First, with increasing relative humidity, thermal conductivity characteristics decrease significantly. This is what some “experts” write, although the characteristics increase, thermal conductivity increases, and heat saving decreases. Do you feel the difference? Three times - cotton wool takes a very long time to dry, there is almost no air movement in it. Which is natural, otherwise the heat would not be retained in the room. Insulation is always attached to the walls, regardless of the material they are made of. And prolonged contact with wet wool has an extremely negative effect on all building materials. Here is another reason why you need to use a vapor barrier in a bathhouse.

If you understand these issues, you can familiarize yourself with various vapor barrier materials and their physical characteristics.

Prices for mineral wool

mineral wool

Types and characteristics of vapor barrier materials

There are quite a few of them; we will focus only on a few of the most frequently used ones. Let's start again with a little “educational education”. Some amateur builders do not fully understand the difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing materials. After all, steam is the same as water. Why should some materials be used for vapor barrier and others for waterproofing?

The fact is that water molecules and steam molecules have different sizes. Based on these characteristics, manufacturers produce materials with different micropore diameters. Some do not allow steam molecules to pass through (vapor barrier), while others do not allow water molecules to pass through. This means that vapor barrier materials can also be used as waterproofing, but the latter cannot be used in the same way. Recently, the production of vapor-waterproofing fabrics has begun; they consist of two layers with different micropore diameters. When installing such materials, you need to monitor the location of these sides so as not to install “exactly the opposite.”

Prices for Izospan

What vapor barrier materials are produced?

Some general tips for laying vapor barrier materials in a bathhouse

You can find advice from “experts” who encourage making small holes in vapor barrier materials through which air will pass, and the structure supposedly will not suffer from high humidity. There is nothing to say, it is better to remain silent. During installation of vapor barrier the main condition for efficiency is the complete absence of gaps, overlapping materials must be sealed with ordinary tape (cheaper option) or special metallized tape (more expensive option). The presence of any cracks nullifies all activities.

Laying the material strictly without gaps

The fewer holes the material has during fixation, the better the protection. If possible, try to use double-sided tape or silicone glue. Of course, the choice of adhesive composition must correspond to the physical characteristics of the vapor barrier material. Now we will consider two options for performing the work: for a bathhouse with brick walls and for a ceiling.

Such baths are very rare and belong to elite and expensive buildings. Their vapor barrier is quite complex, in most cases two-layer. Brick baths must have insulation on the walls, and it is highly desirable on the interior. We have already explained why this is so.

Step 1. Selection and calculation of the quantity of materials. The quantity is easy to calculate: measure the quadrature of all surfaces and increase the resulting number by ten percent. It is more difficult with the selection of materials. As we have already noted, only materials that are safe for health can be used for thermal insulation of indoor baths. Not “environmentally friendly”, as it is now fashionable to say, but safe.

Environmentally friendly are materials that do not harm the environment (clay, sand, etc.), and during the production of all artificial materials, harm to the environment is caused. This means that mineral wool is a material that is safe for health, but it cannot be called environmentally friendly. We will focus specifically on mineral wool; we will take composite foil as a vapor barrier material.

Step 2. Surface preparation. Mineral wool must be protected on two sides: on the wall side from condensation moisture and on the bath side from steam. Carefully inspect the wall surface, remove all sharp protrusions. The fact is that most vapor barrier materials are not very durable; sharp protrusions can damage them, and this will significantly reduce their effectiveness.

Step 3. Attach a layer of waterproofing to the wall, which will prevent the mineral wool from absorbing water from the relatively cold brickwork. You can use any cheap materials, the best option is liquid rubber. When attaching insulation, try to make do with a minimum number of holes in the material. If you use roll coverings, they are fixed with wooden slats, between which mineral wool will be laid. The width of the slats should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool, the distance between them is approximately 40÷50 centimeters.

Step 4. Place mineral wool in the free space between the slats and the wall, making sure there are no gaps. To ensure natural ventilation, a gap must be made between the insulation and the sheathing.

Step 5. For vapor barrier, we recommend using a composite material: aluminum film coated with polyurethane foam. It is stronger than ordinary aluminum film and has, albeit small, insulation. This material can be bent at different angles and can withstand fairly high tensile forces. In addition, a thin insulating layer seals the holes from the fastening hardware.

Step 6. Carefully unwind the vapor barrier roll and nail it to the slats with thin strips. In this case, the planks need to be drowned a little in mineral wool - there will be a gap between your “pie” and the upholstery paneling.

Step 7. Seal the joints of the vapor barrier material. To do this, you can take tape, metallic tape, or use silicone glue.

Now you can start covering the walls with natural clapboard.

Prices for liquid rubber

liquid rubber

Video - What will happen when installing vapor barriers?

Initial data: the ceiling is covered with clapboard, pressed mineral wool was chosen as a thermal insulation material. It is these materials that can guarantee the expected effect from the work performed.

Step 1. Nail the rough ceiling to the ceiling joists. You can use not only edged boards; the gaps do not affect the quality. The main thing is that they are relatively smooth and do not have protruding sharp elements. If any are found, the boards must be cleaned with sandpaper. The thickness of the boards is within 20 mm.

Step 2. Prepare even and smooth slats approximately five centimeters wide and two centimeters thick; the finishing lining of the ceiling will be attached to them.

Step 3. Carefully spread the foil on the ceiling; this work cannot be done alone; there is a high probability of tearing the material. In terms of strength, foil does not have high performance. Do not stretch the film too much, but do not allow it to sag more than two centimeters.

Step 4. When nailing the planks, be very careful, immediately estimate the location of their installation and do not “fidget” on the film several times.

Step 5. The planks are secured, start covering the ceiling with clapboard. Fix the ceiling plinths in the corners.

DIY clapboard ceiling. The gap between the lining and the wall is up to 2 cm

The interior work is completed, go up to the attic to insulate the ceiling. We recommend using mineral wool, but in principle you can use any materials: from foam plastic to expanded clay. Mineral wool has the highest heat-saving characteristics, the optimal thickness is 10 centimeters. Place the cotton wool tightly, without gaps. The sheets are perfectly cut to existing sizes, and unproductive waste is close to zero.

Nail boards on top of the ceiling beams. The thickness and quality of the boards depends on how you will use the attic space in the future. Although our advice is, regardless of “today’s plans,” lay the flooring with high-quality material. The boards must be edged, with a thickness of at least 25 mm, the installation process is no different from the process of laying floorboards. Press them with special or homemade clamps, do not allow cracks or curvature to appear. For fixation, you can use nails or self-tapping screws, the length of the nails is at least 70 mm.

Vapor barrier for frame baths

One of the advantages of a frame bath is the lightness of the structure and the minimum amount of lumber. This same advantage also carries with it the main danger - the risk of destruction of the bathhouse increases due to the loss of load-bearing capacity by one of the structural elements. If for a log house the loss of the original characteristics of one of the beams goes unnoticed, then for this type of bathhouse the consequences of the loss of load-bearing characteristics by one of the structural elements can be very sad.

The frames are made of boards 50×150 mm or 50×200 mm; all frame elements must withstand significant static loads for a long period of time. To insulate frame baths, only mineral wool is used, and it quickly absorbs excess moisture and takes a long time to dry. Contact of wooden structures with wet mineral wool leads to the appearance of fungal diseases or rot. The conclusion is simple - very great attention must be paid to the methods and methods of vapor barrier of frame baths, all technological construction operations must be carried out with the utmost care. Let's give some practical tips on protecting wooden bathhouse structures.

1. Use only high-quality materials. For insulation, it is better to use foil-coated rolled mineral wool; the side with the foil should be facing toward the interior.
2. Before covering the interior walls, additional vapor barrier material should be nailed. We wrote about their characteristics above. We recommend using the highest quality of them – composite foil.

How is vapor barrier done?

Step 1. Carefully fill the finished frame structures with rolled aluminized mineral wool. Frame walls have a large number of different supports; the wool needs to be cut with a small margin in size. The material is cut with a special knife.

Step 2. The foil side of the insulation should “look” into the room.

Step 3. Check the quality of the insulation installation; if any defects are found, eliminate them.

Step 4. Cut the vapor barrier to the width of the room if you used regular mineral wool without foil. It is better to take aluminum foil coated on one side with polyurethane foam.

Step 5. You need to start installing the protective layer from the bottom up (and not vice versa!), even if condensation appears, the water will roll down like on the roof of a roof, the mineral wool will remain dry.

Step 6. To attach the insulating layer, grab it with a stapler to the structures of the frame bath.

Step 7 Nail 20÷50 mm slats to the vertical supports of the walls; the sheathing will be attached to them in the future.

Step 8 Carefully seal the joints of the vapor barrier material with ordinary or special tape.

That's it, the vapor barrier is installed, you can start covering the internal walls. On the outside, a vapor barrier is not needed, but it is advisable to do waterproofing.

Video - Vapor barrier of a frame bath

Vapor barrier for foam block baths

In this case, the advantage of the material (low thermal conductivity) can also turn into a disadvantage. The low thermal conductivity of foam blocks is achieved due to the huge number of micropores and capillaries, but it is these micropores and capillaries that not only absorb moisture, but also very “effectively” distribute it over a large area. As a result, all wooden structures in contact with the blocks have high humidity for a long period of time. The consequences of such operating conditions are known.

The physical properties of foam blocks make it necessary to protect the insulation from two sides: from the side of the finishing cladding and from the side of the blocks. How to do it?

All work on vapor barrier is completed, you can start covering the walls with clapboard.

The most important thing for a Russian bath is that it can hold steam for a certain time, which is so necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate. Below we will consider which vapor barrier to choose for a bathhouse, as well as their schemes for walls and roofing.

What is vapor barrier

A simple vapor barrier is a white or blue film, which can be uniform and with reinforcing fibers. The material has a dense structure, the surface can be either smooth or textured. Insulation for baths and saunas can be membrane, with a corrugated surface, or with a studded coating.

Special bath film is made with a coating of foil or metallized lavsan.

Why use vapor barrier materials?

To create conditions in the steam room with high humidity and temperature, you need to make significant efforts and knowledge. Particular attention is paid to protecting the thermal insulation layer from excessive moisture. Thermal insulation in a bathhouse is usually done with basalt wool. In dry conditions, it retains heat well and is not afraid of high temperatures.

But under the influence of moisture, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly - the bathhouse begins to lose heat. And if at the same time the insulation is also exposed to frost, it will completely collapse very quickly. It is for this reason that it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier for the bathhouse.

Reasons for the destruction of thermal insulation:

• Due to moisture from inside the room. The Russian bathhouse is distinguished by its rather high humidity, so the steam will always try to get into the rooms adjacent to the steam room. Additionally, it goes outside through a heat insulator. This cannot be allowed.
• Due to moisture arising from the temperature difference in the steam room, outside and in the attic. Condensation appears even before steam is supplied, when the air in the steam room warms up by itself.

How to properly install a vapor barrier in a bathhouse

For the correct functioning of such material you need:

• seal seams and joints as efficiently as possible;
• provide a gap between the finishing and the foil.

Sealing

Absolute sealing of the insulation seams will most likely not be possible, but it is quite possible to significantly reduce the amount of steam that will enter the insulation. You will need to lay the foil vapor barrier for the bathhouse overlapping, about 5-10 cm.

The joints must be glued with either double-sided or foil tape. You can purchase it at any hardware store.

Insulation with bath foil must not be damaged. Where the film is secured with bars, holes will appear. To minimize them, you should use a construction stapler. To achieve maximum quality, you can go over the top with tape again at the fastening points.

There is another good method of fastening panels - using wooden clamping strips. Nails are driven into them every 15-20 cm. In this case, excellent protection against steam penetration is achieved.

Creating a gap to provide ventilation

The gap is provided during the process of covering the frame for finishing. It should exceed 2 cm. After the bars are selected, they are nailed on top of the vapor barrier. Next, the wooden lining is already attached. Again, remember that the foil must remain completely intact.

As a result, some of the steam that rises will fall out as condensation on the vapor barrier film. The droplets formed will immediately be dried by natural air currents passing in the space between the insulation and the lining. If the work is done correctly, rotting is out of the question.

Which material is better to choose

The best steam and waterproofing for a bathhouse is a foil-based material. It perfectly retains steam and, at the same time, reduces losses by reflecting heat waves into the room. There are people who are sure that foil does not affect anything, and this is a waste of money, however, as practice shows, almost everyone uses foil-coated materials when building baths.

Naturally, no one will use simple thin foil, since it is very easily damaged. Construction foil with a paper base is preferable.

There are several types of such material available on the market:

• RufIzol S. It has a moisture-repellent base made of kraft paper. Can be used at temperatures from -60 to 120 o C.
• Alucraft. This type of material has an additional intermediate layer between foil and kraft paper in the form of polyethylene film.
• Izospan FB. It is craft paper with a layer of metallized lavsan. It is not considered a metal, which raises questions about its suitability for use in a steam room. However, according to the manufacturer, the material can withstand temperatures up to 140 o C.
• Megaflex KF. Similar to the previous option.
• Yutafol h270 AL. It has a membrane consisting of 4 layers, and this vapor barrier is suitable for saunas and baths.

There is also a vapor barrier for a steam room in a bathhouse with a fiberglass base. It has increased strength and can withstand up to 450 o C (short-term up to 600 o C), which is even an excessive value. Such indicators allow it to be used for insulating chimneys.

Naturally, the cost of such material will be significantly higher. It has enhanced thermal insulation properties, so it will be possible to save on additional thermal insulation (reduce the layer).

According to the manufacturers, fiberglass insulation is environmentally friendly, making it ideal for finishing baths. Although you will have to pay three times more for it than for kraft paper-based material.

Almost all the material on the market is unbranded.

Among the famous brands are:

• Thermofol ALST – up to 400 o C;
• Folgoizol;
• Armofol - up to 150 o C, there are variations on a self-adhesive base.

You can also use foil thermal insulation. The method of laying it is the same as for simple insulation, thus saving on installation time.

The following brands of foil material are available:

It is also worth noting that when selecting a material, it is important to take into account its flammability characteristics. It is better if it is non-flammable or slightly flammable material, because bathhouses are fire-hazardous structures, and in this case it is advisable to play it safe.

Installation of vapor barrier on the ceiling

When installing a vapor barrier for a bath on the ceiling, watch the joints near it - the material should be laid overlapping the wall to minimize heat loss. You can secure the material with the same double-sided tape, or by pressing it with strips. In this way, maximum reliability will be ensured.

Often, in addition to the main insulation, a layer of moisture-repellent material is also placed in the attic. There it is especially needed, since after precipitation droplets of moisture can seep through the roof. In any case, it doesn't hurt to be on the safe side. Only in this case will a vapor-permeable waterproofing be required - it will allow the steam that has penetrated through the insulation to enter the attic and evaporate there.

It is possible to perform a vapor barrier on the ceiling in a bathhouse using publicly available materials. This method involves hemming ceiling beams with thick, more than 50-60 mm, boards, sometimes unedged. In the attic, a vapor barrier is laid on the boards.

If the budget is really tight, then cardboard impregnated with drying oil, wax paper, glassine, or other material with similar properties can be used. The edges and joints are carefully processed, after which a mixture of pasty clay is laid on top. Sometimes straw or sawdust is added to give the finished material increased viscosity and the formation of a minimum number of cracks in the future.

After the clay layer has completely dried, the newly formed cracks are covered, and again wait until the material dries. Next, they move on to laying the heat-insulating layer, and the ceiling in the steam room itself is covered with wooden clapboard.

Wall upholstery with vapor barrier material

Vapor barrier in the steam room on the walls is carried out practically according to the same scheme as the arrangement of the ceiling. The only difference is the thickness of this very insulation layer (for walls it is half as much). In this case, a foil or membrane film, which is placed slightly on the ceiling, is also suitable.

It will also be necessary to glue the joints of the vapor barrier with door and window openings, as well as other structures. The better the vapor barrier, the longer the bathhouse will last without interruption, and there will be no need to replace certain insulation elements ahead of time.

Installation of a vapor barrier layer in a washing room

In order for the bathhouse to operate without problems for as long as possible, it will be necessary to provide a vapor barrier in the washing compartment. It also contains excessive humidity, and temperatures are significantly lower, which is far from normal conditions.

Therefore, it is important to ensure not only high-quality vapor barrier for the steam room, but also for the washing room. Although in this case you can do without foil-based material. Diffusion membranes are ideal. They will not allow steam to penetrate into the insulation, and if the membrane on the inside is equipped with a hygroscopic layer, then the moisture in the insulation will be retained.

This suggests that if droplets have formed on the rough surface of the membrane, they are retained until they evaporate under the influence of air currents. For this scheme to work, you need to leave a gap for ventilation between the final finish and the vapor barrier layer.

Make sure that the vapor barrier layer is attached to the surfaces with the correct side - the foil facing out. Otherwise, the material will deteriorate very quickly, and you will have to completely replace it, otherwise the bathhouse will be impossible to use.

The feasibility of installing a vapor barrier layer in other rooms

Whether or not to install vapor barriers in other rooms is up to you to decide. In the same locker room after bath procedures, the humidity level will certainly rise. If your bathhouse is made of wood, and you do not plan to insulate it either from the outside or from the inside, then you don’t have to lay such a layer of vapor barrier - drying will be carried out naturally, since the wood breathes and vapors will escape through it. But in this case, it won’t hurt to install a normal ventilation system, otherwise problems may also arise over time.

But if your bathhouse is built from foam blocks or bricks, then a vapor barrier must be installed inside the entire bathhouse. In addition, when designing a ventilation system, it is worth considering that it will be necessary to dry not only the layers of insulation and steam insulation, but also the walls, due to the fact that they are made of hygroscopic material.

Consequently, the vapor barrier layer is supplemented with a layer of moisture-repellent material. There are two methods of insulating a brick bath, and both of them involve laying foil material, which will act as a vapor barrier and, at the same time, retain heat.

Laying a vapor barrier on the roof of a bathhouse

To ensure normal vapor barrier in a bathhouse, you need to install it not only on the walls and ceiling, but also on the roof. To do this, a vapor barrier membrane is laid on a wooden frame in the attic, and insulation and waterproofing are placed on top. And already on it the counter-lattice is installed, followed by fastening of the roofing material.

In the article above, we looked in detail at how to make a vapor barrier in a bathhouse. You need to clearly understand the difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing, understand their characteristics, so that after all the work is completed, unforeseen nuances do not arise. If everything is done correctly, the finished bath will last a very long time.

Vapor barrier for a bath: foil insulation for the ceiling, which one to choose for a steam room, how to make it with foil for a sauna

How to make a vapor barrier for a bathhouse ceiling

When building a bathhouse, special attention should be paid to thermal insulation, as well as the creation of a high-quality vapor barrier. Vapor barrier of a bathhouse ceiling extends its service life and eliminates negative factors during the construction phase. These include: climate features, aggressive external environment, seismological hazard.

It is also important to choose the right materials to achieve the desired result.

Features of bath ceiling vapor barrier

By installing a vapor barrier on the ceiling, you can:

• increase the service life of roofing materials;
• prevent the appearance of mold and mildew;
• limit heat loss;
• increase the fire safety of the ceiling structure.

The laid materials are usually durable and do not require additional maintenance throughout their entire service life.

Selecting an Effective Material

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse can be done using natural materials. For example, a mixture of clay and sawdust dries quickly and does not crumble. This was done before in the classic Russian bathhouse.

There are also modern vapor barrier materials for ceilings, which are being used more and more often. There are four types:

Creates a greenhouse effect in the room, thanks to which the cost of heating the bath is lower. But due to the double-sided smooth surface, condensation is not retained on the surface and flows off, falling onto the thermal insulation layer. This leads to its damage and the need for frequent replacement. To prevent this from happening, during the installation process, it is necessary to leave a small gap through which condensate drops will evaporate.

• Polypropylene film

It differs in that it has different surfaces. One side is smooth, like a regular film, and the other has lint. This is a big advantage. Thanks to this surface, condensation lingers on the fibers and does not reach the thermal insulation.

Both types of films do not allow the surface to “breathe”.

• Polyethylene foil film

It has a metallized coating on one side. It is reinforced with mesh. Using them, you can achieve two goals at once - create a vapor barrier and a heat-reflecting layer.

• Membrane vapor barrier

Provides a natural microclimate and is ideal for a bath. Does not allow moist air to reach the insulation and ruin it. Simultaneously performs several functions, forms a steam and water barrier.

Types of vapor barriers for membrane-type ceilings are divided into:

It is also useful to know that ordinary thick cardboard impregnated with drying oil can be used as a vapor barrier.

Vapor barrier of the bathhouse ceiling will be much more effective if the selected materials meet all modern requirements and basic characteristics. Penotherm, Armofol, Izospan, Penofol are in great demand.

Penotherm is polypropylene foam laminated with foil. It is able to retain reflected heat rays in the room. At the same time it has steam, heat and sound insulation properties.

Armofol is a foil material, made of glass mesh on both sides. Typically used in areas with high humidity. For example, in a bathhouse, sauna or bathroom.

Penofol is a multilayer composite, which has polyethylene foam inside, and the outside is covered with aluminum foil on one or both sides. There are a large number of modifications of this product. This in turn allows you to make a more accurate choice for a particular case. Serves for heat, hydro and vapor barrier of ceilings and walls.

Vapor barrier of the ceiling of bathhouses and other wooden buildings is also carried out using foil material based on kraft paper, which is called Izospan (B). It is of high quality and meets all standards. One of its sides is rough. Due to this, condensate is retained and evaporates. Thus, the insulation and the entire ceiling structure are protected from moisture saturation inside the room.

Installation methods

The installation procedure itself is not complicated, so it can be done with your own hands. Ceiling vapor barrier can be carried out in various ways. We will look at the most popular and practical ones.

• Sew up the ceiling with blocks - thick boards, at least 5 cm thick.
• Perform a vapor barrier on top using the selected material.
• Cover with a layer of clay.
• Then proceed to thermal insulation. You can use mineral insulation, foam glass, expanded clay or other insulation.
• Strengthen the boards on top or make a cement-sand screed.

• Hem tongue and groove boards, 2-3 cm thick, to a square beam (20x20 cm).
• Cover them with two layers of drying oil for water resistance.
• Lay the boards on top of the ceiling beams. Leave gaps between them.
• Glue a polyethylene film or reinforced foil on top.
• Make a backfill of sand or slag on top of this. Or use any other insulation.
• Sealed and sheathed with wood, preferably hardwood.

Tip: to install the ceiling vapor barrier, use a stapler and glue the seams with special metallized tape.

The painting method of vapor barrier is often used for finishing. For this purpose, hot bitumen and bitumen-lingo-sulfonate mastics, rubber and polyvinyl chloride varnishes are used. They have unique properties:

• conduct heat well;
• retain moisture and do not allow it to be absorbed into the ceilings;
• create a favorable indoor microclimate.

How to create a vapor barrier in a wooden house

A standard vapor barrier will protect the ceiling in a wooden house and prevent it from premature aging. Such a vapor barrier can be created using a special membrane, film, roofing material or special foil.

There are two types of vapor barrier:

Rolled - overlap each other - 10-15 cm. And to seal the joints, special joining self-adhesive tapes are used.

To install sheet material, you must first buy or make a frame from profiles yourself. After that, insert the sheets into it and attach them using self-tapping screws. The joints must be covered with PVC film or Izospan.

Let's look at how to properly install a vapor barrier:

• attach rough ceiling boards to the floor beams;
• perform waterproofing;
• attach a layer of vapor barrier to the rough ceiling and press it with a lathing made of wooden blocks or metal profiles;
• finish the ceiling using wooden slats, lining, wood boards, plasterboard or other material.

Also, additional insulation is laid before finishing the ceiling surface. When laying it, do not pierce the vapor barrier material with nails. Therefore, a frame installation system is used, which prevents damage to the created steam barrier.

Important: when installing, attach the vapor barrier membrane with the smooth side to the rough ceiling, and the rough side down.

As a rule, steam and heat insulation materials are attached to the walls using a stapler. In this case, special attention is paid to the corners; the vapor barrier should not consist of pieces. It is better to lay a solid sheet that will completely cover the corner.

High-quality vapor barrier for the ceiling of a bathhouse or wooden house is the main condition that will allow you to maintain optimal temperature conditions and feel comfortable inside such buildings.

Vapor barrier for bathhouse ceiling: choice of material and installation methods

Vapor barrier for a bath: vapor barrier schemes for ceilings, walls and roofs

For a Russian bath, one of the main tasks is to retain steam. After all, it is high humidity that we need to create the desired atmosphere. Its second task is to protect the heat insulator from getting wet: when wet, it protects the premises much less well from heat loss.

What does it look like

Foil vapor barrier is the best choice for a steam room

If this is a regular vapor barrier, it is a milky, white, blue film. There are them “checkered” with reinforcing fibers, and there are homogeneous ones. To the touch - dense, they can have surfaces of different textures - smooth and rough. There are vapor barrier membranes. They are nonlinear - they have a corrugated surface or with spiked protrusions.

Especially for baths and saunas, vapor barriers with a heat-reflecting coating are produced: it can be made of foil or metallized lavsan.

What is it for?

High humidity and temperature in the steam room of a Russian bath require a special approach. It is important to protect the heat-insulating layer from moisture. Why protect him? The fact is that basalt wool is most often used for thermal insulation of premises. In a dry state, it has good heat-insulating qualities, is made from natural materials, and tolerates high temperatures well. But in an important state, its thermal conductivity increases greatly, and it protects less well from heat loss. And if it freezes when wet, it will completely crumble. That is why it is necessary to protect it from moisture in any condition. Both from liquid (waterproofing) and from steam:

• From moisture coming from the room. The humidity in the Russian steam room is very high, the air is oversaturated with moisture, so the steam tends to flow into other rooms and outside (through the heat insulator). And we need to avoid this.
• From moisture formed due to temperature changes in the steam room and in the attic and on the street (and on the interfloor ceiling and on the walls). It condenses even before steam begins to be supplied, during the heating of the air in the steam room.

Laying rules

In order for such material to fulfill its tasks, it is necessary:

• ensure the best possible tightness of seams and joints;
• make sure there is a ventilation gap between the foil and the finish.

How to ensure tightness

You can either buy metallized tape and glue the joints on the outside, or double-sided tape and fasten the panels together

It will probably not be possible to create complete tightness of the seams and all the material to protect against steam, but it is possible to significantly reduce the amount of steam entering the insulation. To do this, the panels are laid with one over another by several centimeters (5-10 cm).

The joints are glued either with double-sided tape, which allows you to tightly fasten the two panels, or with special foil tape, which is sold in the same place where the foil material is sold.

It is equally important to maintain its integrity when installing a foil vapor barrier. In those places where the film is attached to the bars, holes form. Minimal damage during installation is ensured when using staples from a construction stapler. For those who love perfection in everything, you can additionally cover the places where they are attached with tape on top.

The second good way is to fix the panels with wooden clamping strips, into which nails are driven at intervals of 150-200 mm. Here the protection against steam penetration is immediately improved.

How to make a gap for vapor barrier ventilation

This gap is provided by the counter-lattice bars, to which the lining is subsequently attached. The gap size is at least 2 cm. Having selected the appropriate bars, nail them on top of the vapor barrier. And already attach the lining to them. When fixing it, do not forget about the need to maintain the integrity of the foil.

What happens as a result: part of the rising steam condenses on the vapor barrier film. Hanging droplets are dried by a flow of air that passes between the film and the lining. If everything is done correctly, there are no problems with rotting.

The gap between the vapor barrier and the finishing is provided by counter-lattice bars

For a steam room, the best vapor barrier materials are foil materials. They simultaneously do not allow steam to pass through and reduce heat loss by reflecting heat waves back into the room. Some believe that this is a sales trick, but in fact the foil does not affect anything except the cost of finishing. But in practice, they prefer to use foil or foil-coated materials.

Simple thin foil is difficult to use: it breaks easily. Paper-based construction foil is much more convenient. Here are some materials:

• RufIzol S. Foil mounted on waterproof kraft paper. Operating temperature range from -60°C to +120°C.

This is what materials look like on kraft paper

There is also foil based on fiberglass. It is more durable, also less flammable, but more expensive. According to the manufacturers, this material can withstand up to +450°C (peak load up to +600°. This is more than enough for use even near chimneys. This material, along with steam protection, has thermal insulation properties. This does not mean that without Thermal insulation can be dispensed with, but using a smaller layer is easy.

According to the manufacturers, it can be used in baths: it does not emit harmful substances. Price: approximately 3 times higher than on kraft paper.

By brand: almost all materials are nameless. There are only a few with the name:

• Thermofol ALST - temperature range up to +400°C;
• Folgoizol - thermo-heat-resistant vapor barrier;
• ARMOFOL - can withstand up to +150°C, there are different types, even with a self-adhesive base.

If you want to see the description and characteristics of the “nameless” ones, search for “foil on fiberglass.” And then choose

These are fiberglass-based materials. In addition to vapor barrier, they also have quite significant thermal insulation properties.

There is also a combination of a heat insulator covered with foil. It is laid like a regular heat insulator - spaced between the beams of the sheathing, and the joints are taped with foil tape. When using such material, installation time is saved. If this is important to you, you can use this material. Despite the fact that the material appeared relatively recently, there are more proposals here:

• Isover Sauna;
• Ursa (Ursa) foil;
• SAUNA BUTTS from ROCKWOOL.

These are heat insulators covered with foil

There is one important nuance: when choosing a material, pay attention to its flammability. It is advisable to choose either non-flammable or low-flammable materials. After all, a bathhouse is a fire-hazardous building and it’s better to play it safe.

Bath ceiling vapor barrier

The figure shows a general diagram of the thermal vapor barrier of the steam room ceiling. Please note that at the junction of the wall and ceiling, the vapor barrier material is laid with an “approach” to the wall. This minimizes steam penetration. For reliability, the edges of the material need to be secured, ensuring tightness if possible: if possible, you can use the same double-sided tape, or press the material tightly against the wall with a plank.

Scheme of vapor barrier for the ceiling of a steam room in a bathhouse or sauna

Often, another layer of waterproofing material is laid on the side of the attic (or second floor). It is, in fact, necessary there: it will protect the heat insulator from drops of condensation that may drip from the roof, from precipitation that may seep in, from spills on the floor of the second floor. Doesn't matter. This is the option when it is better to play it safe. Only this time we need vapor-permeable waterproofing. This is so that the steam that does get into the insulation can escape into the under-roof space and evaporate there.

There is also the option of vapor barrier of the steam room ceiling using the “old-fashioned” method and publicly available materials. In this case, the ceiling beams are hemmed with a thick board (at least 50-60 mm), often unedged, and a vapor barrier is laid on the boards from the attic or roof side. In the most budget option, it can be cardboard impregnated with drying oil, waxed paper, glassine or any modern material with the appropriate properties. Its edges and joints also require careful sealing. On top of this layer they lay clay soaked to a paste-like state, to which straw or sawdust is sometimes added - for greater viscosity and also so that cracks do not form or are small.

Steam room ceiling vapor barrier using clay

After the clay layer has dried, the cracks that appear are covered again and the material is allowed to dry again. Then a layer of thermal insulation is laid (read what materials to use for thermal insulation of a bath here), and lining or boards are stuffed on the side of the steam room.

Vapor barrier of walls

The vapor barrier scheme for the walls of the steam room is practically no different from the “pie” on the ceiling. The whole difference is in the thickness of the thermal insulation layer (for the ceiling it is twice as large). It is also recommended to lay a foil film or membrane on the walls in the steam room (do not forget to ensure that it “fits” onto the ceiling and floor).

The vapor barrier must be taped at the joints

It is also necessary to glue the places where the vapor barrier material meets window or door openings, other structural elements - the less vapor penetrates under the film, the better the protection will be and the longer the service life of the bathhouse without repairs and replacement of insulation elements.

Vapor barrier of a bath: sequence of laying materials for the ceiling and walls

Vapor barrier in the washing department

In order for the bathhouse to stand for many years without problems and the need for repairs, it is also necessary to make a vapor barrier in the washing room. The humidity here is not so high, the temperatures are also non-critical, but still the conditions are far from normal: at times there is quite a lot of moisture, both in the form of steam and in the form of water.

In the washing section of the bathhouse, vapor barrier is also necessary, but there is no need to use foil materials. In this case, it is more advisable to use diffusion membranes, which, on the one hand, prevent the penetration of steam into the insulation, and on the other, retain the moisture present in the insulation cake (if the membrane has a hygroscopic coating on the inside).

In this case, a drop of water is retained on the membrane, on its rough side, until it is dried by air currents. For this to work, there needs to be a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the finish.

Scheme of heat and vapor insulation of a bathhouse wall made of profiled timber

How to mount it on a wooden floor (and even on a panel ceiling) and on walls is demonstrated in the video. Pay attention to which side the vapor barrier is laid on the walls. It is easy to mix up the side, but as a result, nothing will work, and after a while repairs will be needed to replace the casing.

Is it necessary in other rooms?

Whether or not to make a vapor barrier in the remaining rooms of the bathhouse is your choice. But even in the locker room when using a bathhouse, the humidity level is always significantly higher than normal. If your bathhouse is built of wood and will not be insulated either from the inside or from the outside, then you can do without this layer - drying will occur due to the fact that the wood “breathes” and has the ability to remove vapors. But even in this case, it is already desirable to have a well-thought-out ventilation system in the bathhouse.

If the bathhouse is made of brick or foam block, then vapor barrier in all rooms is required. Moreover, when creating ventilation and insulation/steam/waterproofing, you must keep in mind that you will have to dry not only the insulation, but also the walls themselves due to the hygroscopicity of the material.

Schemes for vapor barrier of a brick bath

Therefore, in addition to the vapor barrier layer from the inside, a layer of wall waterproofing is required. The diagram shows two methods of insulating the walls of a brick bath, which necessarily include foil material, which plays the role of a vapor barrier and at the same time reduces heat loss.

Vapor barrier for bathhouse roof

Making a vapor barrier on the walls and ceiling of a bathhouse is not enough. To ensure the safety of walls and roofing materials, roof vapor barrier is also necessary. To do this, on the side of the attic, on the sheathing, a vapor barrier membrane is laid, a layer of insulation is placed on it, and waterproofing is placed on top, along which a counter-lattice is made, and the roofing material is attached to it.

When choosing materials, you need to accurately understand the difference between vapor barrier and waterproofing. This video clearly and thoroughly examines the processes, their features and differences, as well as the requirements and characteristics of the materials used.

Vapor barrier in the bathhouse: ceiling and walls, materials for vapor barrier, video

Vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse - a barrier to condensation

A vapor barrier for a bathhouse is necessary to create a barrier against steam escaping through the walls and ceiling to the outside. This is necessary for the steam section of the bathhouse, because the traditional Russian bathhouse includes the procedure of warming up the body with steam, and even with a broom.

But for some people, a hot bath is contraindicated. Therefore, there are places in the steam room for lovers take a steam bath– specially equipped shelves almost under the ceiling, where it is hottest, and there are places for moderate stay- lower shelves.

Many baths were built as a single room: a steam room, a washing room, and a dressing room. A special feature of the Russian stove is the closed-type stove-heater - the main attraction of the Russian bathhouse. The stove takes a long time to warm up, and its design is such that the heat stays in the bathhouse for two days. This is where the reason lies: why the ceilings in the Russian bathhouse were always dry.

To preserve heat, the roof and walls of the Russian bath are made of carefully caulked walls: used moss, flax tow. The ceiling is made of wood from thick blocks (half logs) tightly fitted to each other. The vapor barrier for a bathhouse on the ceiling was done as follows: oiled paper was placed on top of the blocks and a layer of clay mixed with dry sawdust was laid. The result was a kind of additional thermal insulation. The attic of the bathhouse was ventilated, brooms were stored there and herbs were dried.

The material for the construction of the bathhouse was also taken into account - they used moisture-resistant wood species: cedar, larch, oak. Aspen, alder, and linden tongue and groove boards were used for finishing.

Building materials that are used today in the construction of baths must be additionally protected from moisture penetration. This concerns, first of all, the protection of insulation in the construction of ceilings and walls. And the heating technology in modern baths is completely different. It also affects the formation of condensation in the bath insulation.

It is possible to choose the right vapor barrier and determine which one is better, but you need to study the nature of the conversion of warm air into condensate.

What happens to the heated air in the baths?

The vapor barrier of the bathhouse ceiling made of natural materials could not protect the wood 100% from steam, but after washing, the heat remained in the bathhouse, and the moisture accumulated in the log evaporated during this time. The bath heated up and cooled down slowly.

There was no sharp temperature difference inside the bathhouse and on the ceiling surface, as there were no prerequisites for creating dew point– the temperature at which warm air saturated with moisture cools and cannot retain moisture that condenses on cold surfaces. Even if moisture appears on the surface of the ceiling, it will not penetrate deep into the wood, but will form drops on the ceiling, which will stop dripping onto the floor as soon as the bathhouse warms up.

In modern baths, finishing materials are made of moisture resistant wood, but the design of the stove in most modern baths is designed to quickly heat the steam room. Now imagine what happens during warming up if there is no vapor barrier on the ceiling and walls.

The stove gives off heat almost instantly. The walls and ceiling that have not yet been heated take on the heated hot air; Some of the wet steam finds the dew point on the surface of the cold walls and ceiling and condenses on them in the form of droplets.

The dew point does not stand still, it moves as the walls and ceiling heat up.

What happens if there is no vapor barrier on the ceiling in the bathhouse? Warm air penetrates behind the sheathing and encounters insulation, which has a temperature lower than the warm air entering. A condition of temperature difference may be created in which moisture condensation occurs directly in the insulation (internal condensation), and since the insulation has low thermal conductivity, the dew point in it can be maintained for a long time and the insulation will become wet, like a sponge, absorbing moisture.

This is the difference between an ancient Russian bathhouse and a modern one. For an old Russian bath, there are practically no conditions for condensation of warm air, or they are reduced to a minimum (surface condensation). A modern bathhouse should have vapor protection. Moreover, this protection is based on specific conditions, which take into account:

• Stove type: with an open type heater and a constant firebox, and a closed type with an intermittent firebox and high heat capacity;
• Features of the room design;
• Construction material.

Based on these conditions, choose a protection method:

• Maximum insulated room with impenetrable vapor barrier, protection against internal condensation;
• Partial vapor barrier, eliminating the formation of dew point in the bath structure.

Foil vapor barrier for a bath

Modern steam rooms in the bathhouse are heated by metal stoves with a constant fire: the stones warm up during the fire, and if combustion is not maintained, the stones will give off heat through water poured on them and cool down. But the advantage of these furnaces is fast heating; the stones heat up to 300-400 degrees in a short period of time, what happens next without vapor barrier is described above.

To keep heat inside and prevent it from escaping outside, use foil vapor barrier for the bath from the inside. The principle is to create a screen like a thermos: which retains heat transfer energy of all types: heat exchange, convection and radiant or, as it is called: electromagnetic energy of infrared radiation.

Insulation of the ceiling in the steam room should prevent heat from penetrating into cracks cutting ventilation and chimney pipes and through other channels: water pipes, piping the heat exchanger (register) of the stove with a container installed in the washing room or in the attic of the bathhouse, electrical wiring. This also applies to the vapor barrier of the ceiling in the bathhouse. Foil material requirements:

• High tensile strength;
• Low thermal conductivity;
• High reflectivity of IR rays;
• Fire resistance;
• Environmental friendliness.

These requirements are met by foil from trusted manufacturers, for example Aerolam Insulation, which is one of the top ten leading international companies producing reflective insulation material for construction purposes.

Material contains double fire retardant and IR reflective layers aluminum foil, between which there is foamed polyethylene with air bubbles, enclosed in spherical individual cells. This material structure is most suitable for creating a thermos in a steam compartment.

Technical characteristics of insulating materials Aerolam Insulation.

This is a small part of a roll of insulating material for vapor barrier from the inside of a bathhouse Aerolam Insulation. The choice is huge. You can choose a universal vapor barrier material for external and internal insulation.

Rolled foil material can be chosen cheaper. "Alucraft"– consists of 3 layers: foil, reinforcing fire-resistant film, kraft paper. Regardless of what you choose, the foil is attached to the wall and ceiling with a stapler to a wooden sheathing with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the joints are glued with adhesive foil tape, included in the kit.

Which vapor barrier is best for a bathhouse?

Which vapor barrier is better? One that will protect the insulation and block the leakage of steam to the outside. Having considered the characteristics of foil Aerolam Super Alumet above, we can safely say that it is the best for the ceiling in a bathhouse. It is suitable for baths of the traditional Russian type, and for modern baths, which differ from saunas only by the addition of steam.

Before deciding which vapor barrier to choose, you need to proceed from the preferences of the bathhouse owner. If the bathhouse is maintained at traditional temperature 60-70 degrees, then instead of foil, regular one will do PVC vapor barrier film, but if there is a bathhouse 100-110 degrees, then it is better to replace the film with foil.

The topic of vapor barrier of a bathhouse is extensive, but there are postulates, truisms that should not be deviated from, the main thing is avoid condensation conditions. The main protective agent can be not only foil material, but also natural materials, you just need to correctly understand the nature of condensation formation and act consciously.

Additionally, you need to build in an adjustable ventilation duct to ventilate the room after washing.

Ceiling vapor barrier in a bathhouse: which one is better to choose?