home · Appliances · The stand for the barbell is collapsible with your own hands. DIY barbell stand. What should a barbell rack be like? Layout of the future projectile

The stand for the barbell is collapsible with your own hands. DIY barbell stand. What should a barbell rack be like? Layout of the future projectile

Let’s say right away that this stand for a barbell is not particularly reliable, but as an option, as they say, for a while, it’s suitable. It’s as easy as shelling pears to make, and it requires the simplest things.

You will need:

  • Three plastic buckets with a volume of 12 liters or more;
  • Bar;
  • Cement;
  • Sand;
  • Water;
  • Drill;
  • Drill attachment for mixing solutions;
  • Master OK;
  • Ruler;
  • Saw;
  • Pencil;
  • Dye;
  • Brush.

You need bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm. As for the buckets, we have already said. By the way, three because it is best to knead the solution in a free bucket.

Mark the ends of the bars for arranging the depressions for the barbell.

Cut out these same depressions. Note that in this case you will need to prepare four such racks, two identical.

When the racks are ready, concrete them in previously prepared plastic buckets. Knead the solution based on a ratio of one to four. In each of the logs you need to concrete two posts, namely one short and one long.

The lower racks are suitable for bench press, and the upper racks are suitable for barbell squats. Decide on height for yourself. It all depends on what kind of bench you have and your height.

Then paint the wood. By the way, you can pre-treat the part of the bars that will be immersed in the solution.

That's basically all.

Let's say it again, this barbell rack is not secure. We do not recommend using it for heavy weight training. It can capsize with all the ensuing consequences. But for practicing with, so to speak, an almost empty bar, it is quite suitable.

Of course, instead of plastic buckets, you can use other containers, including barrels.

Those who play sports at home and have the appropriate equipment at their disposal know how painful it can sometimes be to trip over them. To prevent this from happening again and to keep all the weights, weights and dumbbells organized, you need to have a rack. It can be purchased at a sports store, but it will be much more economical to make it yourself. How exactly, read the step-by-step instructions.

Materials

To make a dumbbell rack with your own hands, prepare:

  • sheet of plywood 4.5 x 28 x 110 cm;
  • rectangular bars 5 x 15 cm;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • screwdriver;
  • saw;
  • roulette

Step 1. For the bottom rails of the rack, cut off two pieces one meter long from the timber.

Step 2. For the legs of the stand you will need 4 pieces of timber 55 cm long.

Step 3. Place two meter-long pieces of wood together and, stepping back 33 cm from each edge, make marks for attaching the transverse legs of the stand.

Step 4. Between the long bars, place the prepared four parts of the beam of the same length. Place them perpendicularly, as shown in the photo. Align them and secure them with nails or self-tapping screws. After this, be sure to check the stability of the resulting structure and correct it if necessary.

Step 5. Attach two small bars to the sides of the finished base of the stand. Bevel their upper corners for an aesthetic appearance.

Step 6. Attach a sheet of plywood to the prepared base as a tabletop. It should be slightly longer than the base of the stand. The width is larger than dumbbells.

Step 7. Attach the edges to the tabletop along the edges. Cut them out of bars in advance.

Step 8. Secure long, low bars along the tabletop exactly in the middle. There will be two of them in total. When deciding on the height, proceed from the dimensions of the dumbbells. Longitudinal slats are needed to fix dumbbells on the tabletop.

To do strength training at home, you will need a bench press and a stand for the barbell, since putting the equipment on the floor between approaches is extremely difficult and inconvenient. The task is easier when there is a partner nearby, but this rarely happens, since training, as a rule, is carried out independently.

There are many articles on the Internet that describe how to make homemade bench for the bench press, which is one piece with the barbell rack - it’s like a two-in-one bench press machine. This option is the simplest, but makes training easier.

A more convenient option is when a homemade bench is made with a height-adjustable stand separately.

But it is more difficult to manufacture. The height of the barbell rack is easy to change, and it itself is a separate element of the simulator. The structure is made according to the drawings below, equipped with a tube that allows you to grab with your feet. This makes it possible to perform other exercises on the machine: triceps extensions, abdominal pumping, etc.

With the help of drawings and imagination, it is easy to put together many combinations: a homemade bench for bench press in the “lying” position can be made as one piece with a height-adjustable stand for the barbell, or you can also make them as two individual element– a homemade bench for bench press and a stand of constant height.

The tube for gripping with legs is optional - to do it or not. This is decided by the master who undertakes to make the simulator. The result should be a design similar to the one proposed below.

Now let's talk more about the manufacturing process.

The top number in the figure indicates the number of the part itself, the bottom number the number of the part to which it is attached. You can do without covers inserted into the ends of the pipes, which are used to give the simulator an aesthetic appearance, but do not carry any functional load.

To assemble the simulator you will need 3.2 meters of profile steel pipe, which is the most expensive material designs. To avoid the hassle of welding, the fastening required to secure the board can be simplified as shown below.

Having simplified the fastening, the homemade bench is attached to the pipe through two middle holes drilled in advance. Having assembled it, they proceed to making a stand, the height of which can be adjusted.

As in the previous drawing, the part is indicated by the upper number, and the element to which it is attached is indicated by the lower number.

Profile rectangular pipes, indicated in the drawing, can only be replaced with a metal thickness of 2 or 3 millimeters, since these are easier to find than those with a thickness of 2.6 mm. It is clear that it is preferable to take a thickness of 3 millimeters to increase the reliability of the structure. The difference in price per meter is small - up to 1 dollar. It will be needed to make two 1.5 meter racks.

On square pipes bears the main load, therefore, despite the fact that it is easier to find them with a metal thickness of 3 mm, try to find a thickness of 4 mm.

Holes for wedges are drilled in future racks (see figure). External Internal

Two holes are drilled in the outer pipe, size 40x40, and 8 in the inner one. It doesn’t matter what diameter of the holes you choose, just as the distance between them doesn’t matter. The main thing is that they are not smaller than indicated in the drawing.

It is allowed to fix the height of the posts in a simplified way, using one wedge for each rod. But then the thickness of the wedges (see figure) and holes should be twice as large as in the drawing. In this option, it is not necessary to drill 2 holes in the outer pipes.

For convenience, they make one wedge for the stand (not 2), but they will have to be made thicker. It's easier to make them from nails. In this case, choose 200 weave: they will fit both in length and will be thicker than 6 mm. But, with this solution, it is desirable that each homemade rack have 2 wedges. To use one wedge at a time, you will need something thicker.

If a sheet is available, the holders are made according to the drawing. For ease of manufacture, replace them with levers, which will have to be welded from thick reinforcement with a “U” or “Y” profile.

Having made a homemade bench for the press and an adjustable barbell holder, you can use the equipment itself, i.e. barbell, try to make it yourself.

Video: Do-it-yourself simulator, part No. 1

Video: Do-it-yourself simulator, part No. 2

Video: DIY simulator, part No. 3

Very important for all kinds of exercises good stance for barbell: for weighted squats, seated, calf raises, holding weights and so on. For those who don't really like to study gyms, performing all kinds of exercises becomes problematic. The main problem is the barbell rack. It is this equipment that is often so lacking to conduct effective home workouts. But if it is so important, then why not do it yourself with your own hands.

Why do you need to make a stand yourself?

Why do you need to make a stand yourself if you can find a decent stand that will be of high quality and practical in online stores or? First of all, a manufactured stand will cost three or even four times less than a store-bought one. All you need is to have all the tools and be able to use them.

Secondly, your own stand will suit all personal parameters. There will be nothing superfluous in it, and the design can suit any conditions of your own apartment.

Safety precautions

Safety first! This is what you need to remember when operating welding machine, drills and everything else. The design must first of all be reliable so that if something happens it can withstand a huge load. The stand should not have sharp corners, which you can get caught on and knock something over. It’s better to think everything through so you don’t have to fix it later.

Layout

So, the decision has been made - the barbell stand will be homemade. Before starting work, you need to think through everything carefully. For greater accuracy, it is best to make a drawing. The barbell stand must be proportional. Bearing structures are required to withstand the entire weight, for this you need to calculate everything and put it on the drawing. In addition, the drawing will help you avoid buying too much. Since materials are usually bought by eye with a reserve, and this is all money. What is important for homemade stand - low price. So it is better to first draw up a plan in which the future stand should be described.

What a DIY barbell rack should look like

The rack must be practical and compact to suit the “harsh” living space conditions. That is why the described projectile has so many devices and amenities. The secret is to have the rack also serve as parallel bars. All this should be foldable and adjustable in length and height. It is thanks to these features that a conventional barbell rack turns into

What about the bench?

It takes a lot of effort to create a barbell rack. There is a lot of fiddling around with a bench, so this design does not include a special bench. IN as a last resort it can be bought at any specialized store. By the way, it will be good decision, since most likely the purchased lounger will be equipped with devices for pumping the abs. The bench and barbell rack will take up a lot of space, so it’s best to assemble them separately.

Materials for work

You don't need a lot of materials for a stand. It will still be cheaper than in the store. So, for work, first of all, you will need two types of profile shapes (types of rolled metal). In order to change the height and width of the rack itself, you need to insert one pipe into another, so one must be smaller than the other. The mechanism is simple: another protrudes from one pipe, and its position can be adjusted, thereby lowering or raising the level of the rod.

In order for the structure to withstand the entire load, one type of 40 by 40 millimeters and a cross section of 2 millimeters will be enough. Its length is 5 meters. The second (retractable pipe) should be 30 by 30 millimeters, 2 millimeters in cross section and 3 meters long.

Another important part is the neck holder. It will require two 6-mm sheets of steel 50 by 200 millimeters.

To make the bars, you will need a small pipe measuring 30 centimeters. Since there will be two handles, it is best to take two pipes of 15 centimeters each.

You will need a couple more bolts (act as the regulator itself). They should not be too thin, otherwise the heavy weight will simply bite them. The most optimal thickness such bolts are 8 millimeters. Since the entire structure is made of metal, it will seriously scratch the floor and rattle. To cause less damage to the apartment and not disturb the neighbors, you need to stock up on rubber stands. These are pieces of rubber 5 millimeters thick. This device makes the entire structure more stable and, therefore, reliable.

Closer to the point, or How to make a foundation

Almost the entire load goes to the base. It must be very strong and stable. It should also be collapsible so that it takes up less space in the apartment. So, let's start making the base of the future rack. The first thing you need to do is cut metallic profile on the required ones. The base is the part into which a smaller (30 by 30) profile will then be inserted, which will hold the bar. It will look like capital letter"T".

First you need to prepare all the tools. The base will need two bars 700 and 300 millimeters long. To do this, you will need a thicker profile (40 by 40). Two bars need to be welded in the same letter “T” so that 15 centimeters remain from the middle of the longer one in both directions. This design will ensure maximum stability. A hole for a bolt is drilled in a 30-centimeter block - it will adjust the width.

You need to mark the middle of the letter "T". It is there that the next block 850 millimeters long should be welded. From this bar there will be another one, on which the bar will lie. But under a heavy load, the block can bend, so you need to weld an additional block 550 millimeters long from the base to the middle of the rack. It will serve as additional support. It is welded at an angle so that it connects the vertical and horizontal bars. At the end of the vertical one you need to make a hole for the bolt. It should be no smaller in diameter than the bolt itself.

A similar design is made using the same principle.

How to do the rest

Before welding, you need to bend the sheets of steel so that they look like a hook. The “hooks” are welded to bars (30 by 30) 900 mm long. It turns out 2 long bars with a hook at the end. The pipe joint is welded behind the hook - future beams. The same is done with another profile.

Every 5 cm a hole with a diameter of a bolt is drilled. Thanks to these holes, the barbell rack can adjust its height.

The height can already be adjusted, but how to change the width? To do this you will need a profile (30 by 30) with a length of 1100 millimeters. Holes are also drilled on it with a center-to-center value of 5 centimeters. Its place is in a larger profile (40 by 40), namely in the small block of the base of the letter “T”. Moving out from the base, it can adjust the width of the rack or bars.

Sport is one of the most important components of life modern man. Every day its popularity is growing not because of fashion, but because of necessity. In 9 cases out of 10, a modern city dweller leads a sedentary lifestyle, eats on the go and spends little time sleeping. This rhythm of life is very harmful, so many people try to acquire sports equipment within their place of residence, which most often comes down to a barbell, dumbbells, an exercise bike and an expander. But if almost all of the above can be used without additions, then the barbell definitely requires a bench for the bench press.

The bench for the bench press is made of metal.

Making it is quite simple if you have the skills to work with metal, but if you don’t have such skills, then it’s time to learn, since such benches are sold at an unreasonably high price.

The first step is to prepare your own drawings (Fig. below). In the example, the standard version will be considered, but sometimes you can also find elongated, shortened, narrowed and widened options. All of them appear in connection with the specific build of the student.

Making a metal skeleton

Materials and tools you will need:

  1. Profile pipe.
  2. Bulgarian.
  3. Welding machine.
  4. Roulette.
  5. Steel strip.
  6. Drill.
  7. Vise.

It’s worth starting with the fact that the bench press differs from its everyday counterparts in almost all criteria, except that they also sometimes sit on it. Once the drawings are finally prepared with your own hands, you can begin.

To work you will need profile pipe with a section of 4*4 cm, with maximum thickness piers. In several parts it will also be necessary to use a steel strip or a thick-walled round pipe.

Step-by-step description of actions to simplify the task:

  1. 2 pipe sections are made, 83 cm each. These sections will serve to support the bar, so they must be selected with the utmost care. On one of the sections from the beginning of the pipe, a measurement of 34 cm is taken and marked with a simple pencil, after which the second one is marked in the same way.
  2. A section of 52 cm is made. This section connects the first 2 pipes to each other at a height of 34 cm (this is exactly how much should remain from the weld to the base). When making a weld, it is important to remember that the load on it will exceed 100 kg, and with serious fluctuations.
  3. One more element is cut out, but already 34 cm long - this is the leg on the reverse side.
  4. The next element will have 97 cm, its purpose is to combine the front and rear supports into a common structure. It is noteworthy that this section is laid on the rear support from above, and to the front ones (the crossbar from step 2) it is fixed from the side using a weld.
  5. Extensions are made under the legs to evenly distribute the load over the floor surface. Under each front - 22 cm, under the back 30 cm. All joints are carefully welded again.
  6. Using a vice made of a steel strip (4 cm wide), 2 identical supports are bent. Outwardly, they resemble the letters “J”, because on the front side the side should be quite low, and on the back side, on the contrary, it should rise by 7-8 cm.

At the very end of making the skeleton, you need to make several holes in the structure, each of which has a diameter of 1 cm. All holes serve exclusively for the entry of the rods, but not for their exit from the reverse side. Their exact location is 16 cm from the center of the beam connecting the front legs.

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Making a sun lounger

You will need:

  1. Sheet steel 2 mm.
  2. Bulgarian.
  3. Roulette.
  4. Door hinges.
  5. Reinforcing rod without ribs.
  6. Welding machine.
  7. Edged board.
  8. Foam rubber.
  9. Rubberized fabric.

Here you will have to combine work with metal and wood.

At the very beginning, 2 steel sheets are cut out - 35*16 and 35*94. The first one is fixed with a weld seam immediately into its place in the legs, protruding only 1 cm beyond the pipe.

To secure the 2nd you will need a steel loop door type, but made in a handicraft way. Store-bought analogues are only suitable if they were made for armored doors. The loop is welded with one plane to the pipe, and the second to the steel plate.

An indentation of 10 cm is made on the reverse side, and 2 ribless reinforcement rods 30 cm long are attached in a similar way - this move will allow you to raise the back to perform an additional series of exercises.

Now you can lay the sanded one on top edged board or chipboard, which will protrude 0.5 cm in each direction (the only exception is the junction of 2 plates, where, on the contrary, you need to cut 1 cm). All joints between wood and metal are fixed using self-tapping screws, and in such a way as not to pierce the wood.

Foam rubber is placed on top and covered with rubberized fabric of the maximum available density.