How to properly sharpen a knife on a trimmer. Which cutting system is better for a brush cutter: a line knife or a disk. How to sharpen brushcutter and trimmer blades

Trimmer blades - how sharpen, short properties, including knives for lawn mowers and knives for trimmers, purpose comparison, advantages and disadvantages, the right knife, also reviews of knives for trimmers

Trimmers and chainsaws

Knives for brush cutters

How to sharpen brushcutter and trimmer blades

First, carefully inspect the trimmer blade to see if there are any bends or cracks on it (to prevent the blade from breaking at high speeds).
Using the template of the new knife, draw sharpening stripes on the worn knife (to ensure the correct shape of the knife and even wear).
The trimmer blades must be sharpened on a low-speed sanding wheel with medium grit (so that the cutting edges become sharp and at the same time do not overheat the metal).
Sharpen all edges identically!, slowly, at an angle of 30° (to eliminate vibration of the knife when the trimmer is operating and ensure a clean and easy mowing).

If brush cutter knives(trimmer blades) are dull or incorrectly sharpened - this means overloading the motor, increased fuel consumption, low productivity, poor mowing and rapid operator fatigue.

Purpose of weeding knife Husgvarna Multi 300-3 3.45mm (1)

it is intended for especially difficult work (for example, on railway slopes, where there is crushed stone, pebbles, hard bushes, pieces of iron) - this is a faithful knife and it lasts a long time (both wear and tear);
but it cuts grass very poorly, especially weak grass and is very heavy.

Purpose of weeding knife WINDSOR 300-3 2 mm (1)

it is intended for making hay from seeded large upright grasses: alfalfa, sainfoin, barley, oats (productivity

10 hundred/hour);

for mowing hard weeds;

for laid down and tangled grasses and weeds (it turns out worse);

and this is a trusty knife (for me the best) it can mow everything! (the middle of the knife is wider).

Comparing the Windsor knife with the Husqvarna knife

It unwinds more easily.
It moves more easily (light).
It is easier to sharpen (the metal is weaker) and there is no question of how to sharpen it.
It cuts easier (thinner).
He can mow small, sparse grass.
But such a brushcutter blade quickly wears out: in some places, three times faster than Husqvarna knives.
But it bends, for example, when it hits a hard stump.
But it has less inertia for chopping.

Features of the 8-tooth hay knife Husqvarna Grass 255-8T, 1

This knife is designed for making hay, mostly on flat areas with thick grass (productivity

2 cells/hour).

Such a knife of a brush cutter cannot be removed and turned over in order to mow with the other side of the knife; if on one side the teeth are dull (like Multi knives), you need to sharpen it with a file while mowing.

It is difficult to sharpen when the edges of the teeth become clogged (to sharpen you have to grind down the backs of each tooth).

An eight-pronged knife is very bad at mowing down fallen grass and thin, sparse grass (in some places, it takes twice as long as straight alfalfa, for example).

It’s also too heavy to handle (oops!) and intensively maneuver on uneven surfaces.

Reviews of brush cutters

Sharpening the trimmer disc. Do it yourself.

Showed how it is possible sharpen standard trimmer disk for the best cutting of grass and thin trees.

How to sharpen a brush cutter disc?

If you sharpen and sharpen your lawn mowers, but still don’t take the grass, then there may be a problem somewhere. I'll tell you.

There are not many shortcomings, perhaps only weak performance on short grass, especially when it becomes dull, then it does not cut, but strokes. Its teeth are small, the grass slips out under them, in this case it’s better not to come up with two or three teeth.

Brush cutter knives with 36–40 teeth (and with Pobedit soldering)

Yes, from my experience, these discs are the best. They are positioned as disks with victorious soldering, but there it is so overwhelming that it all falls out in 3 days. And they continue to mow perfectly due to the huge number of teeth, diameter, and then lightness. Due to the small thickness and the huge number of perforations in the disc, even not very powerful brush cutters can pull it. And this is good. And I, after switching to this disk, I almost never use fishing line, only in the most problematic areas.

So far, about 10 acres of strong, dry, long-lasting wood from burdocks, nettles, small growth, and all sorts of other nasty things have been mowed - I think it won’t get dull soon (I don’t even put on fishing line).

I don’t make hay, but I mow willow, nettles and other growth 15-20 mm thick with a disc, 255 mm I think. It’s creepy, the monster accidentally didn’t notice the 25mm steel corner sticking out from the ground and cut it to hell, productivity hardly dropped the right knife. It cuts burdocks like slightly frozen butter.

AND uneven surfaces with various molehills and other pleasures one should not be afraid. The main thing is not to run into reinforcement or stone.

Brush cutter with Pobedit soldering(personal experience)

When I took the trimmer from the man, there was a knife with pobedit tips on it. There were maybe 10 of those rations left there (out of 40). But, there was no choice, I began to mow. The knife with Pobedit is an excellent knife; without removing it, I mowed down almost 10 liters of gasoline. I liked working with this knife (I never had to before). Advantages a knife with pobedit tips is light (due to the holes in the body), it is durable (it is not realistic to bend it), it is maneuverable (light, round), it mows and saws everything (mows everything and saws bushes as thick as a finger), it is tenacious ( even when all the pobedit has flown away, it still cuts well), it has a large diameter (I would like it to be even larger), it can be sharpened (when there are no more pobedit tips). Flaws knife with pobedit soldering If there are stones or iron in the grass, then the winner will fight back. I liked the trimmer knife with pobedit tips. I even managed to sharpen it, when all the pobedit tips were chipped off on the stones, and the sharp tips of the knife teeth also became dull, rounded and began to cut poorly, I sanded down the semicircular backs of the knife teeth so that the teeth became sharp again (similar to a chainsaw) and The knife started cutting like new!

Knife for trimmer Butterfly

This is the most popular knife on trimmers. I think because it is the cheapest and almost all new Chinese trimmers and lawn mowers are equipped with it. Advantages Butterfly trimmer knife is cheap, light, when one side becomes dull, you can rearrange it and mow with the other side. Flaws knife for butterfly trimmer small diameter (low performance due to narrow working cutting width), wide ends of blades ( low performance due to the fact that the wide edges of the blades of the knife do not allow easy penetration into the mass of grass for mowing it, which does not allow the knife to move quickly in the grass), when colliding with a stump or concrete, the blades bend; when colliding with an iron fence post, a piece of the knife may break off . I want to tell you how I reanimated a mangled butterfly knife. Someone else's gasoline trimmer. In the box, among various rubbish, I found a knife for a butterfly trimmer. It was all rusty. The blades, in addition to being bent like the blades of an aircraft propeller, also have their corners chipped and bent from hitting something hard. The blades are not worn evenly (they have different lengths, widths and radii of curvature). But there is nothing to do, I need to mow it with something, and I set out to restore it. Looking ahead, I’ll say that yes, it worked, I restored this trimmer knife. How to repair a trimmer knife: first I leveled it with a hammer on an anvil, I had to ring it for a long time in the yard until the knife became perfectly level (by eye). Then I sanded down the backs of the blades (they were different lengths and roundness), using a ruler so that the distance from the edge of the hole to the edge of each blade is exactly the same (in my case 10.5 cm). Then I sharpened the working edges. And that’s it, the butterfly trimmer knife is ready for use again!

Saw blade Husqvarna Scarlett 200 22 x 1

(or Scarlett 225 24 x 1) is designed for cutting down young trees with a diameter of up to 14 cm, undergrowth and bushes (elderberry, vines, blackthorn, etc.) with a brushcutter/brushcutter.

Disadvantages of the Husqvarna Scarlett 200-22 saw blade: it has a small diameter, quickly dulls, is difficult to sharpen (see how to sharpen) and the teeth bend easily.

You also need to purchase special protection for this saw blade (protective casing for brush cutters/brush cutters) and a 4.8 mm round file for a brush cutter.

How to sharpen trimmer blades without the help of others?

The trimmer is designed to keep lawns and hedges looking perfect, which is why it is so important that the blades of the blades are kept sharp. But what to do if they are still dulled by hard grass or branches? You can purchase a new trimmer or trimmer head. However, it is much easier and faster to sharpen knife blades yourself. Let's figure out how to do this.

First, find gloves that will protect your hands from cuts. You can also wear safety glasses to prevent sparks from the sharpening process from getting into your eyes. On preparatory stage you should disassemble the trimmer, or rather, remove the blades from the trimmer cutting head. Carefully remove the protective grille, and determine the method of fastening the blades. If they are attached with bolts, unscrew them with a screwdriver; if they are removed by normal pulling, remove them slowly. Be extremely careful, do not try to tear something off by force, use screwdrivers.

You should then secure the blades to keep them in place. You can place them in a vice. You need to make sure that the fixation is strong, and the blades do not “move” back and forth, but at the same time, the fixation should not be deforming, crushing the blades trimmer no use at all. Trimmer blades must be sharpened protrude a little from the vice, otherwise the sharpening process will be difficult.

For sharpening itself, you will need a special sharpening file. metal surfaces tools. These special files are sold in garden tool stores and are used mainly for sharpening saws. The file should not be very wide, otherwise it will not be possible to get into the gaps between the blades, and it is also quite difficult to work with a very small one. Therefore, the width and length of the file should be selected based on the size of the gap between the trimmer blades.

Do not mow the bottom of the lawn mower with sharpening. correctable

If you sharpen and sharpen your lawn mower, but still don’t take the grass, then the problem could be somewhere else. I'm telling you

Sharpening the trimmer disc. Do it yourself.

Showed how it is possible sharpen Standard trimmer disc for better cutting of grass and thin trees.

Each blade has a minimum of four sharpening surfaces. These are two side edges at the bottom and two side edges above. It is also worth noting that only the upper, cutting part of the blade blades of the trimmer is sharpened; the lower part does not need to be sharpened.

For a trimmer whose blade blades are quite thin, it is enough 4-6 movements with a file on each of the surfaces. The file movements should be strong, but smooth and not sharp, otherwise the edges of the trimmer knives may become jagged. Remember what's important. This is to ensure that all surfaces are sharpened equally and symmetrically, otherwise there will be interruptions when mowing the grass. The file is usually moved downwards at the same angle at which the edges of the blade are located. Rust is removed in the same way. You need to be careful not to grind off too much material from the edge, otherwise the trimmer will not be able to work: after all, all other parts of the trimmer are “adjusted” to a certain width of the blades.

Sharpening trimmer blades by hand is very difficult and time-consuming; this process is too labor-intensive, so some people try to sharpen blade knives on a sharpening wheel. This should not be done, because with your hands, even with gloves, trimmer knives when brought to a rotating high speed An emery stone cannot hold a non-professional. Knives can be pulled out of your hands and cause injury. How to change a knife to how to properly sharpen a disc for an element for a trimmer. Sparks from the contact of the metal of the knives and the grinding wheel can get into the eyes and blind, which can also cause the trimmer knives to fall out of your hands. So it’s worth the effort and sharpening carefully trimmer knives manually.

After the knives are sharpened, you can rub them with wax for better glide. Wax will also protect your knives from rust. After all the necessary operations are completed, the blade knives are installed back into the cutting head in the opposite order to the disassembly order.

First, carefully inspect the trimmer blade to see if it is bent or cracked (to prevent the blade from breaking at high speeds).
Using the template of the new knife, draw sharpening lines on the worn knife (to ensure the correct shape of the knife and even wear).
Trimmer blades should be sharpened on a low-speed sanding wheel with medium grit (so that the cutting edges become sharp and do not overheat the metal).
Sharpen all edges equally!, slowly, at an angle of 30° (to eliminate vibration of the knife when the trimmer is operating and ensure clean and easy cutting).

If brush cutter knives(trimmer blades) are dull or improperly sharpened - this means engine overload, increased fuel consumption, low productivity, poor-quality mowing and rapid operator fatigue.

Purpose of weeding knife Husgvarna Multi 300-3 * 3.45mm (1″)

it is intended for particularly difficult work (for example, on railway slopes, where there is crushed stone, stones, hard bushes, pieces of iron) - this is the right knife and it lasts a long time (both against wear and bending);
but it cuts grass very poorly, especially flimsy grass and is very heavy.

Purpose of weeding knife WINDSOR 300-3 * 2 mm (1″)

it is intended for making hay from seeded tall, erect grasses: alfalfa, sainfoin, barley, oats (productivity ~10 hundred/hour);
for mowing hard weeds;
for laid down and tangled grasses and weeds (it turns out worse);
and this is the right knife (for me the best) - it can mow everything! (the middle of the knife is wider).

Comparing the Windsor knife with the Husqvarna knife

It unwinds more easily.
It moves more easily (light).
It is easier to sharpen (the metal is weaker) and there is no question of how to sharpen it.
It cuts easier (thinner).
It can mow small, sparse grass.
But such a brush cutter blade wears out quickly: about three times faster than Husqvarna knives.
But it bends, for example, when it hits a hard stump.
But it has less inertia for chopping.

Features of the 8-tooth hay knife Husqvarna Grass 255-8T, 1″

This knife is designed for making hay, mainly on flat areas with thick grass (productivity ~2 hundred per hour).
This kind of brush cutter blade cannot be removed and turned over to mow with the other side of the knife; if the teeth on one side are dull (like Multi knives), you need to sharpen it with a file while mowing.
It is difficult to sharpen it when the edges of the teeth become clogged (how to sharpen it, you have to grind down the backs of each tooth).
An eight-pronged knife mows down fallen grass and thin, sparse grass very poorly (about twice as long as straight alfalfa, for example).
It is also too heavy to be fucked up (oops!) and actively maneuvered on uneven surfaces.

Reviews of brush cutters

I am convinced that an 8-tooth blade cuts hay much better than a 3- or 4-bladed blade. It hardly shreds the grass and less grass gets stuck between the blade and the guard.
I think there’s no better way to think of an eight-tooth hay knife (the right knife), it’s not in vain that I bought a lawn mower - everyone strongly recommended it to me. Now I cut hay only with this knife and came to the following conclusions: two, three and four-bladed ones mow well, but cut a lot of grass, in addition, the 3 and 4-bladed trimmer knives end up in molehills, then in anthills, and at the same time it turns out to be sharp stopping rotation, which is unlikely to benefit the lawn mower. In addition, when leaving the swath, each time such a knife flies into the resulting windrow and at the same time either crushes the grass, or captures a whole bunch of this very grass under protection and gets stuck. And the eight-toothed one is almost round and rarely clings to obstacles. Being more massive, having driven into an anthill, it slows down smoothly, but in the mowing there are anthills literally at every step, and it doesn’t chew or grab the grass in the windrow. In terms of performance, such a disk is not inferior to a two-bladed one, it mows down like a razor, does not leave “tails” and is much safer in my opinion, since it does not send pebbles flying and its tooth is unlikely to fly off upon impact.
There are few disadvantages, perhaps only poor performance on short grass, especially when it becomes dull, then it does not cut, but strokes. Its teeth are small, the grass slips out under them, in this case it’s better not to come up with two or three teeth.

Brush cutter knives with 36–40 teeth (and with Pobedit soldering)

Yes, from my experience, these discs are the best. They are positioned as disks with victorious soldering, but there is such a “win” that it all falls out in 3 days. And they continue to mow well - due to large quantity teeth, diameter, and then lightening. Due to the small thickness and large number of perforations in the disc, even not very powerful brush cutters can pull it. And this is good. And after switching to this disc, I almost never use fishing line, only in the most problematic areas.

I don’t make hay, but I mow willow, nettles and other growth 15-20 mm thick with a disc, 255 mm I think. Horrible, monster - I accidentally didn’t notice the 25mm steel corner sticking out from the ground - I cut it down to hell, productivity hardly dropped - the right knife. It cuts burdocks like slightly frozen butter.

And you shouldn’t be afraid of uneven surfaces with various molehills and other pleasures. The main thing is not to run into reinforcement or stone.

Knife for brush cutters with pobedit soldering (personal experience)

When I took the trimmer from the man, there was a knife with pobedit tips on it. There were maybe 10 of those “salons” left there (out of 40). But, there was no choice, I began to mow. The knife with the Pobedit is an excellent knife - I mowed down almost 10 liters of gasoline without taking it off. I liked working with this knife (I never had to before). Advantages a knife with pobedit tips - it is light (due to the holes in the body), it is durable (it is not possible to bend it), it is maneuverable (light, round), it mows and saws everything (mows everything and saws bushes as thick as a finger), it is tenacious (even when all the pobedit has flown away, it still cuts well), it has a large diameter (I would like it to be even larger), it can be sharpened (when there are no more pobedit tips). Flaws a knife with pobedit tips - if there are stones or iron in the grass, then the victor will fight back. I liked the trimmer knife with pobedit tips. I even managed to sharpen it, when all the pobedit tips were chipped off on the stones, and the sharp tips of the knife teeth also became dull, rounded and began to cut poorly, I sanded down the semicircular backs of the knife teeth so that the teeth became sharp again (similar to a chainsaw) and The knife started cutting like new!

Trimmer knife Butterfly

This is the most popular knife on trimmers. I think because it is the cheapest and almost all new Chinese trimmers and lawn mowers are equipped with it. Advantages knife for a butterfly trimmer - cheap, light, when one side becomes dull, you can rearrange it and mow with the other side. Flaws butterfly trimmer knife - small diameter (low performance due to the narrow working cutting width), wide ends of the blades (low performance due to the fact that the wide edges of the knife blades do not allow easy penetration into the grass mass for mowing it, which does not allow for quick move the knife in the grass), when colliding with a stump or concrete, the blades bend; when colliding with an iron fence post, a piece of the knife may break off. * I want to tell you how I “reanimated” a mangled butterfly knife. Stranger petrol trimmer. In the box, among various rubbish, I found a butterfly trimmer knife. It was all rusty. The blades, in addition to being bent like the blades of an aircraft propeller, also have their corners chipped and bent from hitting something hard. The blades are not worn evenly (they have different lengths, widths and radii of curvature). But there is nothing to do, I need to mow it with something, and I set out to restore it. Looking ahead, I’ll say that yes, it worked, I restored this trimmer knife. How to repair a trimmer blade: first I leveled it with a hammer on an anvil - I had to tinker around in the yard for a long time until the knife became perfectly level (by eye). Then I sanded down the backs of the blades (they were of different lengths and roundness), using a ruler so that the distance from the edge of the hole to the edge of each blade was exactly the same (in my case - 10.5 cm). Then I sharpened the working edges. And that’s it, the butterfly trimmer knife is ready for use again!

Husqvarna Scarlett 200 saw blade – 22 x 1″

(or Scarlett 225 - 24 x 1″) is designed for cutting down young trees with a diameter of up to 14 cm, undergrowth and bushes (elderberry, vines, blackthorn, etc.) with a brushcutter/brushcutter.

Disadvantages of the Husqvarna Scarlett 200-22 saw blade: it has a small diameter, quickly dulls, is difficult to sharpen (see how to sharpen) and the teeth bend easily.

You also need to purchase special protection for this saw blade (protective casing for brush cutters/brush cutters) and a 4.8 mm round file for a brush cutter.

How to sharpen trimmer blades yourself?

The trimmer is designed to keep lawns and hedges looking perfect, which is why it is so important to keep the blades of the blades sharp. But what to do if they do become dull from hard grass or branches? You can buy a new trimmer or trimmer head. However, it is much easier and faster to sharpen knife blades yourself. Let's figure out how to do this.

Preparatory stage

First, find gloves that will protect your hands from cuts. You can also wear safety glasses to prevent sparks from the sharpening process from getting into your eyes. At the preparatory stage, you should disassemble the trimmer, or rather, remove the blades from the trimmer cutting head. Carefully remove the protective grille, and determine the method of fastening the blades. If they are attached with bolts, unscrew them with a screwdriver; if they are removed by normal pulling, remove them slowly. Be extremely careful, do not try to tear something off by force, use screwdrivers.

You should then secure the blades to keep them in place. You can place them in a vice. You need to make sure that the fixation is strong, and the blades do not “move” back and forth, but at the same time, the fixation should not be deforming; there is absolutely no need to wrinkle the trimmer blades. Trimmer blades must be sharpened protrude a little from the vice, otherwise the sharpening process will be difficult.

Sharpening process

For sharpening itself, you will need a special file for sharpening the metal surfaces of tools. These special files are sold in garden tool stores and are used mainly for sharpening saws. The file should not be very wide, otherwise it will not be possible to get into the gaps between the blades, and it is also quite difficult to work with a very small one. Therefore, the width and length of the file should be selected based on the size of the gap between the trimmer blades.

Each blade has a minimum of four sharpening surfaces. These are two side edges on the bottom and two side edges on top. It is also worth noting that only the upper, cutting part of the blade blades of the trimmer is sharpened; the lower part does not need to be sharpened.

For a trimmer whose blade blades are quite thin, it is enough 4-6 movements with a file on each of the surfaces. The file movements should be strong, but smooth and not sharp, otherwise the edges of the trimmer knives may become jagged. Remember that the main thing is that all surfaces are sharpened equally and symmetrically, otherwise there will be interruptions when mowing the grass. The file is usually moved downwards at the same angle at which the edges of the blade are located. Rust is removed in the same way. You need to be careful not to grind off too much material from the edge, otherwise the trimmer will not be able to work: after all, all other parts of the trimmer are “adjusted” to a certain width of the blades.

Sharpening trimmer blades by hand is very difficult and time-consuming; this process is too labor-intensive, so some people try to sharpen blade knives on a sharpening wheel. This should not be done, since a non-professional cannot hold the trimmer knives with his hands, even with gloves, when brought to an emery stone rotating at high speed. Knives can be pulled out of your hands and cause injury. Sparks from the contact of the metal of the knives and the grinding wheel can get into the eyes and blind, which can also cause the trimmer knives to fall out of your hands. So it’s worth the effort and carefully sharpening the trimmer knives by hand.

Completion of sharpening