Decoupage Literally translated from French, it means “to cut.” We can say that decoupage is the same as paper appliqué or collage making. This technique, intended for decorating all kinds of objects, was invented in China by peasants in the twelfth century, when the Chinese were first able to produce colorful thin paper, with which they subsequently began to decorate various objects.

Later, when Eastern fashion swept Europe, varnished furniture from China began to be found in every home. At that time, sellers were unable to arrange delivery large quantity varnish-painted furniture in order to satisfy the huge demand for it, and decided to make the production of its counterfeits mass-produced by setting up production. Thus, the Venetian cabinetmakers, who occupied the furniture market before the appearance of products from China, began to hire special people who copied fragments of well-known paintings by famous artists, after which they glued their drawings onto the furniture and opened them with varnish. This method of decoration was called “lacca contrafatta” (literally translated: lacca - “varnish”, and contrafatta - “fake”), and in appearance it was practically no different from the furniture brought from the east. The decoupage technique in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries began to enjoy enormous popularity among the fair sex. Using this technique, the ladies covered with pictures everything that caught their eye, from blanks intended for storing wigs, to screens and boxes, all kinds of musical instruments and a variety of toiletries. A little later, everyone began to resort to painting the walls and ceilings of houses using the same technique. Today, decoupage is considered to be gluing all kinds of pictures (usually cut out from napkins) onto various types of surfaces and then covering them with varnish. Are you wondering what can be decorated using this technique? The answer is very simple: whatever you want. Even the most simple thing, on which you apply a beautiful bright drawing will immediately be transformed and will look much more interesting, because the picture pasted on the object will look as if it was painted, which will look with a special charm. So, an ordinary plate can turn into beautiful panel, which you can put on a shelf or hang on the wall.

Decoupage on wood

The procedure for performing decoupage on wooden surfaces consists of five stages.

The first stage is sanding the wooden surface. If for decoration you have chosen an item that has already been in use, which has cracks, nail holes or something similar, then these places will need to be puttied before starting work, and then painted over so that the putty does not differ in color from the wood .

The second stage is painting. If you decide to paint the item you are decorating, you should definitely prime it first.

The third stage is the painting itself. At this stage, if necessary, glazing is also performed (applying translucent and transparent thin layers of paint to an already dried bright layer). There is one more nuance: if your item is made of planks that differ from each other in color scheme, then after varnish is applied to the item, this difference will be visible even more. Considering this point, you must either immediately play up this drawback with the help of a drawing, or initially paint the object opaque acrylic paint.

The fourth stage will be our decoupage. In this case, use any other adhesive base, which is diluted to a medium consistency (so that it does not run off with water and does not resemble an overly viscous mass). The final, fifth stage is opening with varnish.
In addition to knowledge about technology, it is worth considering the type of wooden surface of the object being decorated, which can be divided into: untreated, impregnated surface and previously painted surface.

Let's look at the nuances of each type.

Untreated wood should first be examined very carefully for any roughness. If any, the surface should be sanded with fine sandpaper. If you find chips, pits, or similar irregularities on such a surface, fill them with putty (using putty or artistic primer), and after the surface has dried, sand it again.
Immediately before starting work, the wood is primed.

If you need to preserve the natural pattern of the wood and there are no irregularities on it, then the object can be coated with only one layer of varnish and then the pattern can be glued. But keep in mind that this method is only suitable for light wood. If you do not need a wood pattern to remain on the surface, the object is primed with light (preferably white) paint (acrylic) or primer (in this case, the surface does not need a lot of paint because its absorbency is reduced). Use either a special primer for wood and cardboard, or a universal one.

When decorating wood with impregnation, the object must be sanded to ensure good adhesion of the paint or primer to the surface, after which dust from sanding is removed from the surface, and also primed with acrylic, varnish or primer, depending on the purpose of further use.

Previously painted wooden surface You should take a good look (check to see if the varnish or paint is peeling off, and what condition it is in). If the surface is good, then it is sanded (to improve the adhesion of further applied materials) and primed.

A surface that has cracks, where paint (varnish) is peeling off or bubbling in places, is thoroughly cleaned using grinder, or using special remedy to remove old paint. This product can be purchased in almost all hardware stores (just keep in mind that in this case you should work in a spacious, well-ventilated area, or be outside, and use the packaging itself strictly according to the instructions).

Decoupage on a plastic surface

Today, the decoupage technique is at the very peak of its popularity. This method of decoration is enthusiastically practiced by both women and men, housewives and businesswomen, everyone from young to old. Through shop windows at every step you can see decorated objects that are striking in their beauty; large-scale exhibitions are held dedicated specifically to the decoupage technique.

Nowadays, decoupage on plastic surfaces, because in this moment, plastic products occupy a leading position in production due to the low cost of such products and the possibility of wide application. Almost all types of products can be found made of plastic, dishes and flowerpots, doors and windows, furniture and all kinds of decorative items, accessories and jewelry, and this list can be continued for a very long time. True, such products are not particularly beautiful. But today this has ceased to be a problem, because with the help of a simple decoupage technique you can turn even a faceless thing into a work of art. Decoupage on plastic surfaces is based on the main principles of this technique on other types of materials, with the exception of a few points.

To make decoupage on a plastic product, you will need:

The item itself that you will decorate

Liquid glue for paper,

Acrylic lacquer,

Pre-selected paper designs (napkins, cards, etc.), gypsum primer,

Sandpaper (“zero”),

Alcohol or any other liquid to degrease the surface,

A wide synthetic brush and small (manicure) sharp scissors.
Decoupage will adhere well to plastic only if you have prepared this surface well in advance.

To carry out such preparation, you just need to degrease the surface with an alcohol-containing liquid. If you are working with a glossy or slippery surface, you should give it a slight roughness by sanding it with sandpaper. After this you need to apply a small layer gypsum primer to ensure good adhesion to the materials you will be applying, this will prevent them from peeling. Instead of buying a primer, you can make it yourself by mixing dry plaster with water and glue.

After the primer layer has dried, it should be sanded and this procedure repeated two or three times, after which you can begin the decoration itself. Apply one or two layers of acrylic paint to the primer. The paint must have light tone, to eliminate the possibility of drowning out the color of the picture.

While the paint is drying, you can prepare the drawing (motif). It is best to use a three-layer napkin or special cards for decoupage, although this is not necessary and you can easily get by with magazine clippings, postcards, gift wrapping paper, or print the picture you like on a printer and the like, the main thing is not so much the paper medium. How much is his proper preparation?

Carefully cut out the selected design. After the paint has dried, we glue our design. When working with plastic, decoupage needs more glue. If you use napkins, you can dilute it a little with water. We coat the picture thoroughly with glue, leaving not a single dry spot. It's better to use too much glue and then wipe off the excess than if you use too little and the design comes off, ruining the whole job. We place our drawing on top of the glue layer and smooth it thoroughly from the center to the edges to evenly distribute the glue and eliminate the possibility of air getting under the picture. If you are decorating a round surface, it is advisable to glue the picture in halves to better align the image.

After drying, coat the products with varnish in three to four thin layers. Making decoupage plastic is quite simple, you just need to have a little patience and be diligent, and then the result will exceed all your expectations.

Decoupage on metal objects

Before you start decorating metal products using the decoupage technique, they should be properly processed. First you need to sand the metal surface and treat it with an anti-rust agent, then prime it ( water-based paint or a special product) and only then start painting with acrylic. It is best to use construction acrylic and apply it with a roller, then the paint will come out thicker, otherwise you can add glue to it (only if you are not afraid of cracks, which can also be a decorative element). After all procedures, the product is opened with varnish. Another processing option is to first coat it with artistic primer, after which the object is sanded, and then they work according to the usual scheme: painting with acrylic, drawing a picture, opening it with varnish.

In the end, you can use polyurethane and acrylic varnish, they adhere perfectly, after which the products can be washed. You should use a gypsum-based primer, then much less paint will be needed.

For metal objects, car paint is suitable, in cans; it’s easy to apply, it goes on smoothly, and it also dries quickly. Already painted hardware, should be cleaned, removing the paint layer right down to the metal. This is done using abrasive sandpaper. After this, a special primer is used for critical surfaces. If the metal is galvanized, it can be primed acrylic varnish in aerosol packaging.
Let's look at decorating metal objects using the decoupage technique step by step, using an example.

For work we will need:

metal product,

Two contrasting acrylic paints,

One-component craquelure varnish,

Top gloss varnish,

Drawings,

Tassels,

Scissors

Sandpaper.

To begin with, we rub the surface of our product a little with sandpaper. This is done so that the subsequently applied paint adheres better to the surface of the product. After this, we brush off the resulting dust, cleaning the product.

The second stage is coating with acrylic paint. We take paint of any color and apply it thin layer so that there are cracks (this will additional element decor). After this, the paint should dry, it will take approximately twenty minutes.

The next thing we do is apply a one-component craquelure varnish using a wide synthetic brush (it should not be hard). We apply it either to the entire surface, or only in those places where we want cracks to form. The thicker the layer of craquelure, the larger the resulting cracks. After application, leave until completely dry. This will take another fifteen to twenty minutes.

After the craquelure has dried, we begin to apply the top layer of paint in the direction where we want the cracks to appear. There is one peculiarity here: you cannot paint the same place twice, otherwise the craquelure may not work. It is not yet recommended to apply upper layer paint of metallic shades, since craquelure varnish may simply not show through.

After the work is done, we leave the product to dry, or use a hair dryer to speed up this process.

Now let's start drawing the drawing. If you have chosen a napkin, then you should separate the layer with the pattern from it, and then very carefully use scissors to cut out the pattern (motif) that you will glue to the product. Now you can attach the picture to the product and carefully, very carefully, so that the strokes are soft, apply a layer of glue. Movements should go from the center to the edges of the picture. The brush should be generously dipped in glue, so that when applied, the napkin seems to float with a layer of glue.

If you encounter a problem such as the formation of a crease, just try to gently expel the air from under the pattern, either with a napkin or gently smoothing it with your fingers. After the glue has dried, the finished product is coated with glossy acrylic varnish.

I have long wanted to decoupage a lid gas stove. But I somehow put everything off until later, because I wasn’t confident in my “decoupage” abilities, especially on metal surfaces.

The hour “x” came when the condition of the stove cover became critical - rusted strips became visible. If you consider that the stove is only about a week old, then you will understand my condition.

In general, eh, it was there, it wasn’t, I decided!

For the work I needed the following materials and tools:

• zero sandpaper
• acrylic primer
• acrylic paint white
• acrylic paint blue/blue
• napkins
• PVA glue
• construction brush for paint and brush for glue
• acrylic lacquer

More details about the materials I use were described in the master class.

The whole process took place in the kitchen:

All materials were purchased from the construction department, except for the napkin. I got the napkin through an exchange of decoupage napkins (all details) from Irina Onofriychuk, who is also famous for her excellent skills. In general, an ordinary “decoupage” set, nothing supernatural.

Decoupage of a metal surface - restoration of a gas stove lid

Everything is very simple and fast (if you don’t take into account the drying time)

We remove the lid from its hinges, wash it, dry it, and sand all the “suspicious places.” For me these are rusty cracks. After all the manipulations, wash the lid again and dry it thoroughly.

I was only interested in inner side lids (abrasive care products seem to have negated enamel coating slabs and, as a result, rust marks and cracks appeared) - I will decoupage it. Cover with several layers of primer. I do this so that rust does not appear on the finished product. The number of layers depends on the strength of your nervous system and the degree of damage to the coating. I applied 3 layers.

Then I applied 2 layers of white acrylic paint with a regular large construction brush, and the third with a sponge made from a washcloth. I remind you that each layer must be dried for at least 12 hours. At least that's what I do.

In the meantime, I prepared decoupage motifs - I have a Gzhel pattern. This drawing just fits perfectly kitchen tiles on the walls.

I peeled the napkin. I usually cut out designs with nail scissors, but in this case I had to carefully “pluck out” the motifs with my nails (fortunately, I had something). It takes a long time, but the mark after gluing the napkin is not visible.

And now I will reveal little secret, which was suggested by Olga from Moldova in the section. Before gluing the motifs, I opened the lid with a layer of acrylic varnish. And I didn’t regret it! The napkin stuck amazingly!

In general, using PVA glue diluted 1 to 1 with water, I glued the motifs to the lid of the gas stove using a thin brush.

It seems that the main part is finished, it’s time to move on to the final part - applying varnish. But something was bothering me. And I understood. White paint color. It was the color of baked milk, vanilla... anything, but not the blinding white with a blue tint that I needed.

I had to tweak it a little, namely add a little blue to the white paint. Remember how they used to whitewash ceilings?

In general, from this area (a little bit of paint is needed). The fourth and fifth layers were applied with a sponge with blue and white paint, covering the edges of the napkin motifs by 5 mm.

And only after all the above-described manipulations and a good drying of the lid, I was finally able to apply acrylic varnish. How many layers did you apply? To be honest, I don’t remember exactly, but at least 6. Still, the lid of the gas stove often gets dirty...

After thorough drying, the lid was restored to its original place.

The result? Honestly, I can’t stop looking at it.

Decoupage on metal surface

Lesson 9. Decoupage of metal surfaces

Features of decoupage of metal surfaces

General rules for decoupage for metal

If there is rust, be sure to treat it with a rust converter. Moreover, we process until all the rust is gone; repeated processing may be necessary. If this is not done, then the corrosion will certainly go further and soon the decor may fall off.
Sanding of all metal surfaces is mandatory. The only exceptions are highly polished surfaces, such as stainless steel.
Be sure to degrease. In this case, we not only degrease, but also remove the remaining rust converter.
We prime the decoupage for metal with a special primer - anti-rust enamel. Three times, with sanding in between. Primer - enamel is better to take white, so as not to prime it again later.
Prints can be glued to urethane varnish; it holds well, but only on more or less flat surfaces, since urethane varnish does not make the paper plastic, as acrylic varnish does, and if your surface is too curved, the motif may not stick.
If the decor needs to be made strong, you can completely abandon the use of water products.
When painting and setting the background, you can use the same primer - rust enamel mixed with acrylic paints or gouache to the desired color.
Before applying the finish in decoupage for metal, the surface must be sanded well, it should be as smooth as possible. Alkyd-urethane varnishes are all self-leveling and self-leveling, so if the surface is first well sanded and then a sufficient amount (but not too much) of the finishing varnish is applied, then there will be no streaks or drips.
Non-aqueous products always yellow to some extent, so if your product is not vintage, it is better not to apply more than a couple of layers of finish.
It is necessary to remember that all non-aqueous products have an odor, often unpleasant, and use them in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.
If the metal is exposed to heat, for example, samovars, lanterns, kerosene lamps, then heat-resistant paints and varnishes must be used.

Now let's go over all the metal surfaces for metal decoupage one by one.

Decoupage galvanized iron and aluminum cookware

The most a shining example The galvanized blank for decoupage on metal is everyone’s favorite metal watering can from Ikea, which only the lazy didn’t decoupage. So, in order:
Be sure to skin it well.
Be sure to degrease with acetone
We prime the primer with rust enamel three times with intermediate sanding with zero polish.
Glue the print
Background, underpainting
Skinning
Finish coating

Decoupage painted metal

Thermoses, trays, tea and cookie boxes, flowerpots, mailboxes, spice jars and many other painted metal objects used in decoupage on metal. Wherein:

Definitely needs to be washed off old paint using a special remover for old paint and varnish surfaces (sold in hardware stores). You should not neglect this point, since the apparent speed of decoupage with the paint not removed will result in the fact that you will still have to remove this paint, but along with the decor. It will be a shame, so it’s better to wash it off right away.
Sand the surface well.
Degrease with acetone.
Prime the primer with rust enamel.
Sand well.
We paste the print.
Sanding.
Finish coating.

Stainless steel decoupage

Stainless steel items - teapots, pots, flasks, thermoses are also often objects of metal decoupage, flasks are especially popular - good gift and it's done pretty quickly.

If the stainless surface is well processed, it does not need to be sanded, just degrease it well.
You can also skip priming, and if you print on thin paper, you get a very nice silvery sheen.
Background and underdrawing.
Varnish and sand well.
Finish surface.

Decoupage cast iron

Very fashionable Lately decoupage of cast iron, old cast iron irons, some are made from old ones cast iron frying pans watch.

The most important. The cast iron surface is very uneven, so we sand it very well with coarse sandpaper. If this is not done, then later in the process of work all the irregularities will definitely appear, and they will still have to be removed.
Degrease.
We prime.
We sand the soil.
We glue the print.
Background, underpainting.
Finish coating.

Decoupage of enamel dishes

Cans, mugs, coffee pots, saucepans and much more enamel cookware are the subject of do-it-yourself metal decoupage.

Unlike painted surfaces, we do not wash off the enamel, but sand it very well, giving the surface the necessary roughness for better adhesion to the ground.
Degrease with acetone.
We prime in three layers with sanding. If the enameled object is light, then you don’t need to prime it. And if the object is still light, but there is a drawing, then you will have to prime the entire surface, because if you prime only the drawing, it will be very visible and will differ in color.
Glue on the print.
Background, underpainting.
We finish the entire surface of the product, even if the print is smaller in size.

Well, my dears, we have considered the topic of metal decoupage for beginners. Write your questions in the comments, I will definitely try to answer.
Always yours, Miroslava.

MK No. 1__________________________________________

MK No. 2______________________________________________

Master class on decoupage on a metal surface "Lacy shimmers of summer"

Today we will prepare for spring and decorate two elegant metal flowerpots that will become an amazing decoration for our home.

We will work using decoupage technique.

Materials:

1. metal blanks
2. alcohol
3. acrylic primer
4. sandpaper
5. sponge
6. synthetic brush
7. acrylic paints
8. one-step craquelure
9. napkins
10. synthetic varnish

Step 1

Degrease the surface of the pots with alcohol.

We moisten a piece of sponge with acrylic primer, remove the excess so that the sponge is semi-dry, and apply the primer to the surface of the flowerpot with light “smacking” movements. Do not press hard, movements should be soft and fast; if bubbles form, walk over this area with a dry sponge.

When the entire pot is covered with soil, leave it to dry.

We do the same with the second pot.

Step 2

We decide what color the cracks will be on our flowerpots. I chose a lilac color scheme for one, and pink for the second.

You can take several shades of the range we need - this will make our cracks more interesting.

With such light “smacking” movements we apply the paint of the desired shade; here you don’t have to try to ensure that the paint transitions are smooth and unnoticeable, because... We will then cover this colored background with white paint, through which our cracks will appear.

After the paint is applied, let it dry thoroughly. Then we use fine sandpaper to go over the entire surface with paint, removing any unevenness from the sponge. Do not rub too hard so as not to rip off the paint. The goal is to level the surface.

Step 3

Apply craquelure.

I do this with my finger, carefully applying craquelure to the entire painted surface of the flowerpot. We make sure there are no leaks.

Leave to dry for about 30-40 minutes.

Step 4

When the craquelure is completely dry, use a sponge to apply white paint.

You need to try to do this quickly and, if possible, avoid going through the same place twice. Movements should be light, fast and precise.

Cracks should appear before your eyes. We are waiting for the paint to dry.

Step 5

We choose the motif that we would like to see on the flowerpot. Carefully tear out the elements we need from the napkin.

Separate the two bottom layers. We apply the top layer with the picture to the place we need.

Glue the motif using a flat synthetic brush and PVA glue. Carefully coat the motif from the center to the edges, trying to smooth out any wrinkles that have formed. We work carefully so as not to tear the napkin.

Leave to dry.

Step 6

Varnish the pots.

For this we need synthetic varnish.

Using a flat brush, carefully apply the varnish to the surface of the flowerpot.

We wait for the varnish to dry and apply another layer. We varnish until the result is satisfactory.

Here's what I got:

Inspiration and spring mood!

MK 3__________________________________________

What you need to prepare:

• napkins;
• acrylic paints: white and multi-colored (you can get by with white acrylic paint and artistic gouache);
• acrylic primer for metal;
• acrylic varnish;
• sandpaper (fine);
• brushes (wide synthetic + thin for painting);
• palette for mixing paints (or disposable plastic plate);
• a glass of water for rinsing brushes;
• narrow masking tape;
• new sponge.

Decor step by step

Step 1: prepare the metal surface for subsequent decorative work. To do this, thoroughly wash and treat the surface with a degreasing agent using a cotton pad or cloth.

Step 2: The master class is designed for beginners, so proceed to the next steps with confidence! We begin to prime the surface; this must be done carefully using a brush. White acrylic primer eliminates the need to paint the object with several layers of paint. The primer also ensures adhesion of all subsequent layers to metal base. Therefore, this stage is very important for the quality of the finished product.. Apply paint to the dry primed surface. You can get by with white, but this is not so interesting - cream color is more noble and suitable for any interior. Class decorative arts determined by the number of shades of the color scheme.

For getting warm shades mix white paint and a few drops of burnt umber on the palette, add a little yellow. Add paint or gouache in very small portions, controlling the process to get the desired color. Apply the finished color to the watering can using a sponge using tamponing movements. Dry.

Step 3: Using nail scissors, cut out a fragment of the napkin and carefully remove the lower white layers. They are not used during work. If you forget to remove it, the pattern glued from several layers will wrinkle. To ensure that the napkin lies flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish. Carefully, starting from the top edge, apply the napkin. Level with soft fabric and coat the top with glue (varnish). The drawing can be from different sides, act in such a way as to glue everything, but not damage the previous works. Dry, cover everything done with acrylic varnish and dry again. The high class of the product is characterized by impeccable execution.

In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish!

Step 4: This could be the end of it, but the item clearly lacks character, so some additional work is required. To get a straight line when painting part of an object in a different color, use masking tape. Stick it in the place where the separation will be, make sure that the tape fits tightly, otherwise the paint will spread and you won’t get a clear line. Each decoupage master has his own techniques for drawing a straight line - masking tape is the most popular.

Step 5: Using a wide flat brush, paint an imitation of ribbon stitches, but make a mark first with a simple pencil. To do this, mix acrylic paints in a plate so that one edge of the brush captures a light tone and the other a dark tone of paint. Dry the paint and apply varnish on top, dry. Now you need to add depth to the drawing - shade the leaves. It is worth shading with a gray tint with the addition of barely noticeable greenery. Do this stage of the artwork with a thin brush.

To ensure the paint adheres well, dilute it a little with water (it is important that it does not spread). Place the stroke along the contour, or slightly grabbing the edge of the drawing, do not leave white spots. So that the rest of the field does not seem empty, put dots with a thin brush - this will be an imitation of small peas. Decoupage is finished.

Step 6: Cover the entire work with varnish, make two or three layers. Sand the surface with fine sandpaper, wipe and varnish again.

Using step-by-step instructions, the master class will allow you to master the technique and technology. Thanks to it, you can decorate a bucket, coffee pot, flowerpot and any other metal object. A decoupage master will give an old metal iron the luxury of an art object. The work uses not only napkins, but also postcards, magazine illustrations, and photographs.

Decorating your home does not always require large financial expenditures. A person with aesthetic taste, who knows how to create something with his own hands, can make a cute interior item literally “out of nothing.” Old kitchen utensils, remnants of some ribbons, pieces of plastic and foil - everything goes into use. I suggest trying to upgrade old dishes so that you can later use them as a decorative item.

Materials required for decoupage on metal: an old vessel (for example, an enamel mug), white and acrylic paints Brown, acetone, decoupage agent (special glue), automotive acrylic aerosol paint, decoupage napkin, candle, dishwashing sponge (or foam sponge), soft brush, solvent-based aerosol varnish.

First of all, we prepare a drawing for the restoration of an old mug. We will do decoupage on a metal surface and glue small roses. Lift the top layer of paper and tear out several small branches of roses from the napkin.

Wash the old enamel mug thoroughly and wipe it with acetone, outside and inside. This will remove old dirt and degreases the metal surface. Although this mug has picturesque chips and rust showing through, you can’t do decoupage on it right away; first, let’s prepare the surface.

It is best to prime metal (especially rusty) using aerosol automotive paint. Spray it on the mug from a distance of 20-30 centimeters in an even layer (work outside, as this paint has a smell). This paint dries quickly, so for a two-layer coating and complete drying you will need 10 minutes. Car paint will help prevent further rust.

Then we paint the ground with regular acrylic brown paint. We apply it with a foam sponge or a dishwashing sponge.

Now we arm ourselves with an ordinary candle and rub the mug with it in those places where we want to see cracks. That is, we will have to make an imitation of rust exactly in those places where it appears in real, old objects.

Then everything is very simple: again we paint the mug white, but now we use ordinary acrylic paint (we apply it with foam rubber). When it dries, turn the washcloth over to the opposite, hard side and carefully rub it across the mug. In those places where a candle was rubbed under the white paint, beautiful cracks appear. It turns out the same tattered old mug, but this effect will be advantageous in decoupage.

We apply the torn branches of roses to the mug and coat them with decoupage agent, whatever is available. You should use a soft brush and apply the product from the center of the pieces in different directions.

When the glued roses are completely dry, spray the decoupage with spray varnish not on water based. We apply two layers to ensure the strength of the varnish.

This mug can simply be placed on a shelf. She looks quite vintage and she will beautiful element your interior.

You can then put dried flowers in it, in winter - a sprig of spruce, and in summer - a bouquet of your favorite flowers. Since the inside of the mug is primed with automotive enamel, it is resistant to water.

In today's article, we will talk about decorating metal surfaces with our own hands. Many craftswomen who are fond of decoupage, having tried different ways decorating objects, are in search of new ideas for creativity. Decoupage on metal can be one of them.

Having decided to do decoupage on metal, the selected surfaces must first of all be degreased and sanded. These processes are required for better adhesion of the primer to the plane. If rust is detected on the surface, it is treated with a special cleaning agent, which can be purchased at specialized hardware stores.

In the next step, you will need to prime the metal surface. Here you can use a special tool with gypsum base, which can further prevent peeling of the decor. Acrylic-based paints are not suitable for priming metal products. Many needlewomen use water-based emulsion as a primer.

The primer should be applied in several layers with intermediate sanding with light pressure. To apply the primer, use a sponge, since using a brush for this purpose can cause the paint to coagulate, causing it to simply peel off the surface.

Metal surfaces are usually coated with two or more layers of primer, depending on what item you have chosen for decoupage. When your choice falls on a tea box or a pastry box, it is noticeable that they have already been coated with colorful layers, which may later appear. In this case, you need to remove all the motifs using acetone and sandpaper.

The situation is more complicated with old teapots and cans. It is quite difficult to remove paint from such metal surfaces. Here you can try to make decoupage on an uncleaned item. It is worth working with a small area on the selected product. This way you can understand whether decoupage on metal will work without first removing the paint layer and simply degreasing the surface. If there is rust, do not forget to use a special cleaner. But still, the main condition under which decoupage is carried out on metal is sanding and priming of one or another metal plane. After which the product is coated with paint and decorated using selected images from a napkin, card or printout.

Video: Decoupage on a metal jug

Master class on decoupage on a heating radiator

In the practical part of our article, we will walk you through a master class that will help you make decoupage of a heating radiator with your own hands. For beginners, this lesson is equipped step by step photos, illustrating the technological process.

So, for work you need to prepare:

• decorative item - heating radiators;
• sandpaper;
• enamel white with a matte effect;
• rice paper with a suitable theme;
• tassels;
• acrylic based paints;
• PVA glue;
• varnish resistant to temperature changes.

Before decoupaging the battery, its surface is thoroughly washed and lightly sanded. After performing these steps, wipe the battery again to remove any dust residue. Do not use nitro enamel for work. In cases where the previous paint layer was oil-based, nitro painting may form bubbles on the surface.

Drying of the paint occurs within twelve or eighteen hours.

This master class for decoupage of a heating radiator chose a plot in the Provence style, applied to rice paper, the size of which is thirty-four by one hundred centimeters. Since the battery being decorated has irregularities, it is necessary to first measure the width of the fragments. As a result, the paper is drawn into nine-centimeter sections on the reverse side and cut.

Having decided on the area where the pattern will be fixed, the plot is glued to the center of the radiator.

For work, you can use either a special glue for decoupage or PVA, previously diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio. Start gluing from the center of the picture, gradually moving towards its borders.

After the plot is fixed, you need to draw. At this stage, you will need to select suitable shades of paint for the chosen motif and draw some areas in order to more clearly highlight the image and the battery decoupage itself.

Decoupage of the heating radiator is coming to an end. Upon completion of all work on the dried surface, you need to apply heat-resistant varnish. This will help protect your work and extend its lifespan. In the photo, you can view finished result. So, using a simple master class for beginners as a basis, you can try to decorate a heating radiator with your own hands.

Video: Decorating the battery with decoupage