home · Networks · What is a mold for epoxy resin. Video modeling design several important rules for beginners - how to correctly make a mold shape for filling with epoxy resins. Decoration is all that epoxy resin can do

What is a mold for epoxy resin. Video modeling design several important rules for beginners - how to correctly make a mold shape for filling with epoxy resins. Decoration is all that epoxy resin can do

How to make decorations from flowers and epoxy resin with your own hands

Extremely light, airy jewelry made from epoxy resin jewelry is gaining popularity.




Possibility to make decoration of almost any shape, color range, as well as the availability of materials, helped to find fans of this type of needlework around the world.





To create such a decoration you will need:

Leaves and petals

Two-component epoxy resin,

Syringes without a needle - 2 pcs.,


container,

Wooden mixing stick,

Thick cardboard, tile or an unnecessary tray,

Accessories,

Mini drill with attachments,

Gloves, a respirator if necessary.




It is better to carry out all manipulations in a room that is well ventilated.


All flowers, petals, twigs and leaves must be well dried for at least 4 weeks.




When preparing the resin, you must follow the manufacturer's instructions and mix in the proportion specified by him. We draw from the package using syringes without a needle.




Mix for 3-4 minutes. The finished resin should have a consistency similar to honey. It must be stirred periodically so that it does not stagnate.


Further work should be carried out on the table, which you don’t mind ruining, and the tray, which you don’t mind ruining either. :)

It is important that the tray coating does not stick to the resin and is glossy. As an option, you can cover the tray with tape.




When the resin has thickened enough, place the petals on the surface of a tray covered with tape and apply a drop of petals. You can limit yourself to one drop and distribute it over the surface of the petal, wearing latex gloves on your hands. Cover the tray with a lid and leave for a day. Then we apply another layer of resin on top of the first.




24 hours after applying the second layer, turn the workpiece over and do the same on the back side.




After a day, when the resin has hardened, the workpieces need to be processed using a mini-drill.




First, grind the workpieces with an emery attachment. After this, you can coat the product with varnish or fill it again with resin.




Once you have the desired shape, you need to make a hole for fastening using a drill.



Now all that remains is to attach the fittings.




Ideas for creating epoxy resin jewelry:

























You can make fabric decorations in a similar way:






Feathers:



And other materials:


Products created in this way cannot be wiped with alcohol, acetone, etc. It is necessary to avoid exposing them to perfume and deodorants. Do not leave in direct sunlight.

Epoxy can be used to make various items; it is actively used in industry and construction. Unusual jewelry is made from this material, they are poured into prepared molds, and after a day the material hardens thanks to a hardener.

Benefits of epoxy resin

Epoxy items have a number of advantages, first of all, they are characterized by good resistance to acidic environment, And chemical compositions. After curing, the workpiece does not emit toxic substances and does not shrink. The items are durable and have a low level of moisture absorption. The resin has a long service life, that is, increased wear resistance.
It takes time to harden; adding a larger portion of hardener does not make the process faster. In order for the resin to quickly harden, the material is heated, increasing the temperature by 10 degrees of the required value.
Some material may harden without heating. The speed of hardening is affected by temperature and the type of material with which you have to work.

Using epoxy to fill various items?

In order for the composition to harden, it is necessary to perform the work at certain temperature-5, +190 degrees. That is, resins can be of two types, cold and hot curing. When doing work with your own hands, you usually use cold-set material, this makes it possible to make products if heating cannot be done for some reason.
In order for manufactured items to be resistant to aggressive substances, it is necessary to perform the work by heating.
Epoxy resin is used in different directions, it is used to impregnate fiberglass, which is used in mechanical engineering or radioelectrics. The material can serve as an excellent waterproofing material, thus the resin can provide reliable protection basements, swimming pools or flooring. Made from resin various decorations for premises to give originality to the interior.

Proper preparation of the composition

To make resin products, it is necessary to prepare materials, that is, epoxy resin and hardener. When working, it must be taken into account that when a lot of resin is heated, it may release a large number of heat.
There are several types of resin that can cure instantly or after mixing with a hardener. When working with such material, you must comply the right technology, otherwise the resin may boil and deteriorate. Therefore, when choosing a material, you need to consult with the seller about the method of preparing the resin. After hardening, you should get a transparent, uniform piece.
To make large or bulky items, a plasticizer is added to the composition and the temperature is increased, heating the material, the viscosity of the epoxy becomes less. Heat the resin in a water bath, then lower the material into a bowl of water and cool to 50 degrees. This heating method can increase the curing of the resin. If the composition boils, foam will appear on top and the liquid will become cloudy. This mixture is not used; it is necessary to reduce the viscosity of the material; for this, a solvent is added, but this will affect the quality of the product.

Water should not get into the resin or hardener, otherwise the composition will begin to become cloudy. A plasticizer is added to the resin, gradually heating the material. To thoroughly mix all the ingredients, use a special electric mixer or drill with an attachment. Plasticizer is added in amounts up to 10 percent.
Then the hardener is poured, the resin is cooled to 30 degrees in advance. In this case, the ratio of substance and resin is 1 to 10. All components must be well mixed to obtain a high quality product. The hardener is poured in gradually to avoid boiling of the resin.

Self-filling of objects

When performing work, it is necessary to act consistently, adhering to a certain technology. The manufactured item must be of high quality, transparent, and free of air bubbles. It is necessary to achieve uniform hardening of the resin from the inside, and outside.
The resin is poured into prepared molds, which are lubricated with Vaseline so that the workpiece can be easily removed. To give the workpiece a certain color, various dyes are used in powder form. Three hours after pouring the mold, the resin begins to harden. Complete hardening of the product occurs within a week.
Then they begin cutting and sanding the product. When using dyes, the powder in the composition must be thoroughly mixed so that the coloring is uniform. Coloring elements must be different high quality, otherwise the resin may become cloudy.

Safety rules when working with resin

When working, you must remember that the resin releases toxic substances when heated, so you should use all protective equipment.

  1. When performing work, you must not use food utensils that will later be used for food. Such containers are considered unsuitable for food purposes.
  2. Hands must be protected with long gloves to avoid burns or allergic reactions. Goggles are worn to protect the eyes, and a respirator will ensure respiratory safety.
  3. The resin can be stored for about a year, and then is considered unsuitable for making products, so the material must be used within this period.
  4. If resin gets on the skin, wash it off generously soapy water. This must be done immediately to avoid burns.
  5. If the composition is prepared indoors, it should be well ventilated.
  6. All components must be on hand for quick execution. necessary work. Forms can be made independently or purchased in stores.

How to make jewelry from resin?

To make earrings you will need resin and dried flowers of forest grass. First, prepare the epoxy composition using the instructions, mix all the ingredients, then leave the material until the required viscosity appears, this takes about 2 hours. After this time, air bubbles will disappear from the mixture.

  1. Stencils of any arbitrary shape are drawn on paper; they can be round, oval or unusual.
  2. Then you need to prepare the surface; it is covered with oilcloth. There should be no grains or dust particles on the surface. And its structure should be smooth without differences or flaws.
  3. Stencils are laid on the film, and regular files are placed on top. Resin is poured onto the file and distributed over the entire stencil, the edges are formed using a toothpick. The filling is made up to 3 centimeters high, and the top is covered with an oilcloth dome to prevent dust from getting onto the surface of the product.
  4. Then the molds are left for a day to harden. After this, the blanks are removed from the film and shaped using a nail file or sandpaper. Thus, the edges of the product are processed.
  5. Now you need to prepare a new portion of the composition and arrange the dried flowers. To do this, apply a little resin to the product and glue dry blades of grass onto it, leave it to dry, and cover it again with epoxy resin. Give the product its final shape using sandpaper.
  6. A hole is drilled at the tip of the product into which the eyelet is threaded. After this, the product is considered ready.

To make a bracelet out of resin, you need to use a special mold, a mold. In this case, the pouring is performed slowly; the more accurately the work is done, the less sanding needs to be done. Twigs and leaves of dried flowers are placed in a circle and straightened with a toothpick. To remove air from the product, place the mold in the oven for 15 minutes, and the temperature should not exceed 80 degrees. Then the mold is taken out and the product is left to harden.

When the bracelet has completely hardened, it is removed from the mold and all uneven areas are sanded with sandpaper. To add shine to the surface of the product, it is coated with acrylic-based varnish. Countertops are also made from epoxy resin; for this you need to prepare old surface, build formwork around the edges, and pour the composition evenly. Dried flowers, coins or other decorative elements can be placed inside the resin. Using resin, they make an original bathroom floor with shells, starfish or others unusual jewelry. For beautiful picture use printed drawings. You can also make unusual decorative ornaments for rooms that will highlight the interior.

When working with epoxy resin, it is very important what forms (molds) the master uses. Of course, you can buy them, but what to do in a situation where you need to get the form quickly, but there is no time to search and wait for delivery?

There is only one way out. Namely, make your own mold with my own hands. Today's selection of lessons will help you learn how to make molds for pouring with your own hands.

Anyone who is seriously engaged in the manufacture of costume jewelry and women's jewelry should look for the most the best tools, devices and materials are also treated very responsibly. After all, quality is a guarantee of success.

And it often happens that too much time passes from the birth of an idea to the birth of a result. Or a completely interesting and original project ends up in a long box. And the only reason is that it is necessary and ideal suitable materials and there is no way to get supplies or they are too expensive.

In such a situation, one master will literally “dig the earth with his nose” in order to find a more or less adequate replacement for what is needed, and may even take on the task of making everything necessary himself. And this is correct, because “your” instrument, although it appears “in pain,” always turns out to be the most convenient.

It's not as difficult as it seems. The main thing is to understand what exactly needs to be done. For example, you can simply use the knowledge of those who have already gained experience in this matter.

A craftswoman under the nickname Lida Floral Beauty offers you a master class on making a mold for pouring epoxy resin. It can be used to produce spherical and hemispherical parts for jewelry.

For work you will need: special silicone for making molds, a hardener for it, plastic cups and jars required sizes- clean and dry, glass balls different diameters, “moment-crystal” type glue. A description of the entire process can be found in the link below:

In addition to the photo master class, we offer you a selection of lessons in video format.

How to make molds with your own hands. Video master classes

How to make molds for epoxy resin:

DIY epoxy resin molds:

Do-it-yourself molds for epoxy resin at the lowest cost:

DIY silicone molds:

Silicone and starch molds for epoxy resin:

Discussion of the article

I composed such a long name for weiners, which consist of two parts:
The first part is made of silicone - the texture of the bottom surface of the sheet.
The second part is made of epoxy resin - the texture of the upper surface of the sheet.
Combination of soft silicone mold and a transparent form made of epoxy resin makes it very easy to make double-sided textures of leaves and petals, control visually and you can tell by touch the uniform thickness of the casts.

To make the silicone part of the weiner we will need: leaves and petals of the plants we need, cling film, any starch, silicone sealant(KRASS is very good), preferably a disposable plate (if you need Vaseline oil to lubricate your hands).

I came up with a recipe for silicone mass romangt Knead 1 part starch and 1 part silicone sealant well in a disposable plate until it sticks to your hands; if it sticks a little, then you need to lubricate your hands with Vaseline oil.

There is no need to knead a large volume of the mass at once, it sets quickly and you will not have time to use it all, you will understand this after the first kneading.

Before making the batch, lay out the pieces on the table cling film a much larger leaf, place the leaves on the film with the bottom surface facing up.
Quickly spread the prepared silicone mass into portions onto leaves (the silicone mass should no longer stick to your hands), cover the top with another piece of film and carefully roll out with a rolling pin so that the pancake is larger size leaf, and the thickness of the pancake was not thicker than 5 mm. After turning the pancake over, you need to remove the film from above and quickly fold and pinch the edges so that the leaf ends up in the boat.

The mold dries quite quickly, but do not rush to remove the leaf, only when it dries well the leaves are easy to remove, and the prints will be clean and very accurate.

Check the finished molds for holes, pour no more than 5 mm of epoxy glue prepared according to the instructions into them and leave to dry for a day.

When the epoxy glue hardens, it is advisable to cut off the excessively protruding edges of the silicone boat with scissors.

The soft silicone mold can be easily removed from the hard one. epoxy mold, and also easily fits exactly in its place and provides a natural double-sided texture of the leaf.

If necessary, you can use scissors to make a small slot on the silicone mold for a wire leaf handle.

Such leaves are obtained using my weiners.

And for those who already have purchased molds, you can easily make the mirror side of the leaf. You need to stick a piece of silicone dough onto the mold and depict the shape of a boat so that the impression is accurately recorded. You can also stick molds to dry the petals.


I can’t help but brag about another rose made from unboiled HF, where my SILICONE EPOXY WEINERS were used. Annushka's advice http://stranamasterov.ru/user/53500 on tinting the bud was very useful, for which special thanks to her.


Add three tablespoons of potato or corn starch and the same amount of inexpensive silicone sealant.

Stir for 7-10 minutes.

After 10 minutes, the silicone sealant practically does not stain your fingers and we begin to knead the mass.

After 5-6 minutes of kneading, the mass becomes completely homogeneous and elastic.

We immediately begin making prints.

Roll out a small piece of silicone mass to the size of the sheet and press the sheet on top.

To get good relief detail, I roll out the silicone with a rolling pin.

The molds are almost ready. The silicone will dry completely in 8-12 hours.

After drying, the molds become flexible, elastic and can be used to make prints repeatedly!

It is better to carefully trim the molds along the edge of the relief after drying.

Panel "Autumn" in the process of production.


Author MK: Tanyusha

So, first, we find suitable leaves. I chose a hydrangea leaf, a foxglove leaf, a virgin grape leaf, a regular grape leaf (I don't know the variety), and a rose leaf. I warmed up the plasticine a little in the microwave, rolled out the pancakes with a rolling pin (through parchment), made impressions, raised the sides, coated them with Vaseline-based massage cream with a brush. Next, I prepared the glue according to the instructions (I bought 120 ml of glue). But before mixing with the hardener, I put the jar of resin in warm water to liquefy it for a couple of minutes. I poured glue into the molds. The layer thickness must be at least 3 mm.

I left the molds with epoxy for 5-6 days. And now the hardest part is to remove the molds from the plasticine molds. Despite the Vaseline, the plasticine comes off reluctantly. At first I simply cleaned off the plasticine, then dipped it in hot water and with a dry cloth removed the heated plasticine from the mold, then scraped it with a knife back side mold, and then wiped the mold with alcohol. In short, a lot of fuss. But I'm happy with the result. In future works I will show the use of molds in practice.
Here they are ready! From left to right are hydrangea, grapes, virgin grapes and foxgloves. The dye from the plasticine migrated to the epoxy.



These are the molds ready to be poured. Below is a leaf of virgin grape and ordinary grape, on top is foxglove (left) and hydrangea.

And this is a mold of a leaf of a virgin grape that textures a leaf of a new rose :)) It turned out big, I really like it. At least I got leaf molds.


And this is a mold of a climbing rose leaf. I poured in the remaining epoxy, in some places the thickness of the mold turned out to be very small and when removed from the mold a piece broke off. But I tried texturing on this (glued it up), it’s really ok, just don’t press on the break point. And the texture is good!

And finally, I would like to offer you some amazing works by the above-mentioned authors :)