Where does clematis grow? Planting and caring for clematis in open ground. Place, covered with leaves

Clematis: spring pruning and care

Why doesn't clematis bloom? What to do, how to feed clematis? Victoria Litvinova Varieties of clematis. Clematis burning: planting, proper care, photo Ivan Ivanov Clematis: plant care and some of its subtleties Tatyana R Large-flowered clematis Asao: description, care, cultivation and reviews Razumovskaya Daria Clematis bush: planting and care Ivan Ivanov Clematis flowers: photo and description, planting, growing and care Oksana Dubrovskaya Not everyone knows how to prepare clematis for winter Veronika Ustyushenkova Clematis Rhapsody: description, planting and care in open ground Antonina Trushkina What care do clematis require in the fall: tips for gardeners Natalya Karpova Clematis Hegley Hybrid: photo, description. Planting and care Kristina Vitta Successful cultivation of clematis Miroslava Mitkina Liana clematis: preparation for winter Yulia Litvinova Incomparable clematis: shelter for the winter Vitaly Goncharov Large-flowered clematis: varieties, photos Marina Adulyan Beautiful clematis, planting and care Irina

Clematis piliu planting and care, description

Clematis piliu: planting and care, description

Clematis saw propagation is carried out in several ways:

1Division of bushes. 2Pinching shoots in spring. 3 Reproduction by layering in summer and autumn.

Dividing bushes is carried out on plants no older than 6-7 years. Older plants have already developed a fairly strong and large root system, so dividing will be very difficult; the rhizomes are severely torn off.

Topping. This the best option reproduction. This is done in the spring in a container with soil. Containers with very porous soil and peat are dug in in advance. It should be dug below ground level so that during watering the water remains in the container and does not spread. Old branches at the site of the node are pinched into these pots. While the seedling is developing, it is necessary to periodically add soil to the container with a tubercle. By the onset of autumn there should already be mature, strong plantings of clematis Piilu.

Summer layering. They are convenient for growing the plant vertically. With the onset of spring, clematis is placed in a box without a bottom. During the growth and development of the plant, you need to add light, porous soil to the box until the container is completely filled. But it is important to always leave the top part of the vine with a pair of developed buds. Otherwise the plant will stop growing. The soil needs to be moistened deeply and often. If there has been enough care, then in the fall a large proportion of clematis will be suitable for planting in the ground. The rest, with an underdeveloped root system, will remain in the basement over the winter for further growth.

Autumn layering. For layering in autumn, you need to cut off all the leaves and the faded part to a sufficiently developed bud. The vine must be collected in a bundle or wrapped in a ring and fixed in pre-dug grooves. Peat should be poured into the groove and on top of the vine. It is wet material. It is well ventilated and retains moisture for a long time. The entire plant must be carefully wrapped. Over the next year you need to water abundantly and often. When sprouts appear, it is necessary to cover the soil with moss, humus or peat. For autumn already most of The new shoots will be ready to be transplanted into the ground. Shoots develop only from sufficiently formed buds. Roots develop throughout the shoot, but the largest number of them is located under the buds. It is better to use a pitchfork to dig up the plant; they cause less damage to the rhizomes.

Pruning clematis step by step instructions

Pruning clematis: step-by-step instructions

When hearing the word “clematis,” the hearts of most gardeners clench with delight. And not only because with their beauty, diversity and duration of flowering they give the garden a special charm, but also because growing these “garden butterflies” and caring for them is not the easiest task. This means that this is a goal that is interesting to strive for. After all, the beauty of clematis, which pleases the eye all summer, is definitely worth all the effort. This article will talk about the nuances of pruning and proper cultivation clematis.

How to plant clematis correctly Pruning clematis Types of pruning clematis Groups of clematis by pruning

Definition of the clematis group

Pruning clematis in groups Caring for clematis in summer Preparing clematis for winter Clematis in the garden

How to plant clematis correctly

There are two opposing opinions on this issue, and both of them are correct. Clematis can be planted either in early summer (when there is a 100% guarantee of no night frosts) or in early autumn (but no later than a month before the expected frost). Many people believe that the second method, which at first glance is more risky, allows flowers to take root much better in a new place.

But in any case, the habitat of clematis should be light (but not under the scorching sun) and, most importantly, as protected from the wind as possible. Regarding the composition of the soil, these flowers prefer neutral, slightly acidic and alkaline. In any case, when planting a clematis sprout, you should make sure that the soil is truly nutritious for it. To do this, per one seedling, you need to stock up on: superphosphate (approximately 100 g), humus (1.5 buckets) and clay (as loose as possible).

It is very important that groundwater does not pass too close to the surface, since clematis cannot tolerate waterlogging. If such a problem exists, then at the bottom of the hole dug for planting clematis, you need to pour a layer of drainage made of gravel or just broken bricks. When digging a hole, the severity of the soil should be taken into account. For a light one, a size of 50x50 cm will be enough, for a denser one - 70x70 cm. The severity of the soil also affects the degree of penetration of the clematis seedling; the denser the soil, the deeper it needs to be planted. On light soils it is 5-6 cm in the first year, on heavy soils it is 8-10 cm. After a year, the plant is deepened by about the same amount. The distance between planting holes should not be less than 70 cm. A young clematis seedling is very tender. Therefore, immediately after planting, it needs to be protected from direct sun, watered abundantly (you can make a circular hole to remove excess moisture) and provide support, without which the sprout can simply die, for example, from a strong wind. Therefore, while the young clematis is gaining strength, it is regularly (about once every 3 days) tied to a support.

The minimum height of such a support should not be less than 1.5 m. It is also important to take into account the aesthetic side of the issue, because a sufficient amount of time will pass before the support disappears under the branches of mature growth. Therefore, the structure must fit harmoniously into the garden from the very beginning.

Pruning clematis

It is very important not to forget to trim the clematis shoots immediately after planting the sprout. This needs to be done in a radical way, leaving literally 2-3 buds from the bottom. The procedure must be repeated after a couple of weeks. In the autumn of the first year of life of clematis, it is pruned in such a way that the height of the shoot is no more than 30 cm. It is thanks to proper pruning that clematis develops a full-fledged root system, and this is the key to the fact that in one and a half to two years the plant will delight you with beautiful flowering.

pesky weed

All of the above applies to absolutely all types of these beautiful flowers. In other words, planting and initial pruning are the same for all clematis. But in the future, caring for them differs in many ways, and primarily in the style of pruning, which clematis needs like no other plants. And that is why you need to know the types, subtleties and rules of this procedure.

Types of pruning clematis

It is precisely because of the need to constantly restrain the growth of clematis that these flowers are considered one of the most fastidious inhabitants of the garden. It is their correct pruning that often “falls asleep” not only for beginners, but also for fairly experienced gardeners. After all, even with a certain amount of knowledge, to one degree or another you have to use the trial and error method.

Yes, there is quite a lot of hassle with pruning clematis. But, on the other hand, if you put them into the correct algorithm, then, after some time, this issue will not seem such an acute problem.

The first thing to consider is that pruning itself can be weak and strong, and can be divided into several types:

winter or seasonal (as the name implies, it helps the plant survive the cold); formative (for proper development and good growth); sanitary (when during the summer there is a need to remove diseased and old shoots)

You should not unnecessarily involve any additional options besides those needed by a certain type of clematis. This will not make the plant any better, although it can be very difficult to cause irreparable harm to it by improper pruning.

Groups of clematis by pruning

Due to the importance of pruning clematis, their species are usually divided into groups depending on it, as well as on what shoots they bloom on - last year’s or current ones and in what period the flowering occurs.

Clematis are usually divided into three large groups:

First (or group A)–

Second (group B)

spring bloom

Third (group C)

Pruning clematis video

Definition of the clematis group

To begin with, of course, you need to decide which group clematis belongs to. If planting is just planned, then it is much easier to solve this issue, since the packaging, as a rule, indicates which group a particular variety belongs to. The group of clematis already present in the garden is most often determined by their flowering period (discussed above). It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular group not only for the sake of correct pruning, but also so that the plants look harmonious in the garden next to other flowers and shrubs.

Pruning clematis by group

First group of clematis

Clematis pruning photo

Second group

The first pruning of the season should be done after flowering (around June), cutting off the shoots along with the fruit. As a result, the second flowering should be no less beautiful and lush. If this is not done, then clematis, which has given all its strength in the spring, by autumn, on new shoots, may not bloom at all; after the end of the second flowering, pruning is carried out more radically, leaving no more than 1 m from the ground (and in some cases even 50 cm); and of course, the plant must be carefully covered for the winter.

Clematis (photo) - planting and care: expert advises

IT IS NECESSARY TO RECOGNIZE THAT CLEMATIS ARE WANTING, IF NOT CACRISONY. IN ORDER TO ACHIEVE THEIR STABLE AND LUXURIOUS FLOWERING, BEAUTY AND DURABILITY, IT IS NECESSARY TO CONSIDER THE ENVIRONMENTAL REQUIREMENTS OF THESE BEAUTIFUL PLANTS, TO KNOW THE FEATURES OF PLANTING AND CARE OF THEM...

Choosing a place to plant clematis

I want to warn you right away that not one clematis will grow anywhere. This crop has quite strict requirements for habitat and soil substrate.

Clematis cannot be grown in areas with close standing groundwater, in places flooded by melt water and rainfall. They cannot simply be shoved into the ground unless it has been worked to a sufficient depth, for example in a former vegetable garden or in my uprooted apple tree. In all other cases, the soil is carefully prepared.

These are mostly light-loving plants, which must be taken into account when choosing a bridge for planting them. In light partial shade, only clematis from the Viticella group feel good.

Although in the southern regions these vines must be shaded: there, in full sun, they suffer from the heat, fade and quickly fade.

Clematis will not grow “in the seven winds.” Strong gusts break and frighten away fragile young shoots, so the planting site should be protected from the prevailing winds by buildings or dense plantings.

If you plan to plant clematis near the house, you should not place it on the south side of the building: there it will suffer from the sun.

For wall decoration, it will be better if you prefer east or west wall. But even here you need to be careful: the clematis should not be dripping from the roof. When trying to decorate an unsightly iron fence, do not try to grow these vines next to it. They will suffocate from the heat, bloom poorly, and sooner or later they will inevitably die.

Read also: Types of clematis (photo) - cultivation and care

Rules for planting clematis

So, having finally decided on the location, prepare the landing hole. If the soil on your site leaves much to be desired, then make the soil for planting manually.

Clematis prefer to grow on neutral soils, do not tolerate acidic loams well, which should be alkalized. They are also reluctant to grow in sandy soils, which need to be improved by adding organic matter or even clay. You need to dig a hole that is spacious enough, because with good care, clematis can grow in one place for 20 years and over the years of its life develops a powerful root system.

The average dimensions of the hole are 60x60x60 cm; if groundwater is close, pour drainage into it - broken brick, crushed stone or expanded clay. Clematis will not tolerate even short-term flooding. Therefore, if there is no drainage on the site, or there is melt or storm water for a long time, it is better to plant them on raised ridges.

In the spring, open the clematis gradually, so that the young shoots do not fall under return frosts...

If you have a seedling with an open root system, then pour and lightly compact a mound of earth in the center of the hole, over which you carefully fan out all the clematis roots. It is imperative to ensure that they do not get tangled or bent upward. The growth buds must be at a depth of at least 10 cm. This is due to the fact that clematis grows its root system from the bottom up. If planted shallowly, renewal buds may suffer from frost or drying out. In addition, when planted shallowly, clematis does not bush well.

Carefully cover the roots with fertile substrate, part of which was prudently left for these purposes. You should not fill up to the top of the hole, leaving a recess - a “lens” about 10 cm deep.

This is done for two reasons: firstly, it is more convenient to water, and the planted plant requires regular and quite abundant watering and, secondly, if you immediately bury the tender neck of the clematis, there is a danger that the plant may suffocate or rot. The soil should be poured into the formed depression gradually, as the shoots grow and become lignified. Before autumn, the level of the planting hole must be equal to the ground level so that the clematis does not get wet from the rains.

WHAT TO PLACE IN THE PLANTING PIT FOR CLEMATIS?

Fill the hole with 2-3 buckets of compost or rotted manure, a bucket of peat and sand, 2 liters of wood ash, 2-3 handfuls of superphosphate and bone meal, a handful of complex fertilizer with microelements. Pour the top layer of the excavated soil there, which must first be “dolomized” or chalk added to it.

Mix all this thoroughly right in the pit and pour two buckets of water into it. In order to prevent diseases to which clematis are very susceptible, it is a good idea to spill the hole with a solution of the Maxim fungicide (at the rate of 1 ampoule per 5 liters of water). The next day, when the soil in the hole has settled, begin planting.

If you purchased a seedling with a closed root system, then you need to soak it directly in the pot in a bucket of water for 40 minutes, you can add “Kornevin” (1/2 of the powder from the bag) to the solution. After this, remove the plant and inspect its roots.

If the lump is tightly entwined with roots, it should be “gutted” a little. This is done to stimulate the growth of new roots.

I do not wash the roots of clematis, as is sometimes recommended, so as not to disturb the root system, which is quite fragile: after such a procedure, the plant takes longer to take root.

Place the seedling in the center of the hole so that the growth buds are buried, as in the first case.

Cover with soil, also leaving a reserve, and water generously. If the seedling already has fairly long shoots, then immediately install a support to which they will cling. Its height must correspond to the height of an adult plant! There is no need to leave this for later: clematis grows at a stunning speed, if you gape a little, the shoots will become tangled and braided into an untidy, shapeless braid.

Expert advice

In order not to make a mistake with the planting depth, I use a special strip with a piece of a regular school ruler nailed in the middle. I place it like a bridge on top of the hole and adjust the depth, checking the ruler scale. Extremely useful device, which is used not only when planting clematis, but also peonies, that is, when it is necessary to strictly maintain the parameters of deepening the growth buds.

Basics of caring for clematis

The essence of the main agrotechnical activities caring for clematis is to provide them with the most comfortable existence possible, taking into account their environmental requirements. Don't like acidic soils?

It is necessary to alkalize from time to time, scattering wood ash around a couple of times a season and lightly incorporating it into the soil. It is useful to spill with lime milk (100 g of slaked lime or chalk per 10 liters of water).

ON A NOTE

Sometimes you can come across recommendations that advise when planting clematis to cut off the “tops,” so to speak, so that it “better develops the root system” and takes root faster. I know from my own experience that this should absolutely not be done! A two-year-old high-quality seedling has already spent energy on growing shoots, everything is in order with its root system - what kind of survival rate can we talk about when pruning? After all, without the ground part, it is deprived of the opportunity for further development. With such a brutal procedure, it’s good if the plant at least survives. In young clematis, you should only pinch the tops of the shoots - this technique stimulates tillering...

Are the roots and buds of renewal growing upward? Mulching with peat or compost will help.

This event usually accompanies the preparation of clematis for winter. You just have to remember to loosen the bush in the spring! Sensitive to insufficient humidity? Provide regular watering, preferably with settled water from a barrel. Grows a huge vegetative mass? We need to encourage this by giving the necessary supplements. In spring - with a predominance of nitrogen; closer to autumn, eliminate nitrogen, switching to potassium-phosphorus mixtures.

Remember that you cannot feed during flowering; this shortens the decorative period. Particular attention is given to young plants: feed them more often, but in small doses, alternating organic fertilizers (fermented slurry, green fertilizer 1:10) and mineral fertilizers with microelements (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Do we need to talk about weed control and loosening? These routine activities do not require discussion.

The only caveat is that you should overdo it with loosening: clematis do not like their roots being disturbed! Noticed something wrong with the plant? It has become worse to bloom, there are spots on the leaves, the shoots are withering... Take urgent measures - water the roots with Maxim, spray the leaves with systemic preparations against pests. If the stems wilt (these are signs of the dangerous wilt virus disease - verticillium wilt), cut out the affected stems and burn them. If everything goes well, next year it will be as good as new.

Read also: Varieties and pruning of clematis

To prevent diseases, spill the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate or boric acid (1-2 g per bucket of water), spray with urea (1/2 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). If you are already sick, use the heavy artillery - spraying with Topaz or Skor (2 ml per 5 liters of water). Against nematodes, it is useful to plant calendula, tagetes, parsley and dill nearby, whose openwork umbrellas also add picturesqueness to the whole composition.

And of course, provide the clematis with support. It is necessary to tie up growing lashes in a timely manner and very carefully, since they are fragile. And in the fall, remove these vines that have managed to become lignified in parts, cutting them off with pruners in stages: first from the bottom, and then from the top. Do not try to pull out the entire shoot: it is so strong that this is almost impossible. And of course, tear off the leaves. Although, to be honest, I prefer to remove dry leaves from the support in the spring: it’s easier.

In autumn, protect the most delicate and vulnerable varieties from frost. Sprinkle plants cut flush with the ground with compost, fallen leaves or spruce branches. You can use dry branches of perennials: ferns, heleniums or perennial asters, as well as astilbe panicles. Those clematis whose shoots need to be preserved, twist them into a ring and place them on something that will not rot - a sheet of plywood, polystyrene foam, branches of spruce branches, etc.

When it freezes slightly, put a film on top to prevent excess dampness, leaving holes on the sides. In the spring, open the plant gradually, so that the young shoots do not fall under frost.

Shade clematis from the bright spring sun until neighboring perennials grow back. It must be said that joint planting saves clematis roots from overheating. Therefore, it is better to place them in mixborders and flower beds, planting other plants at their feet.

Planting and caring for clematis - myths and misconceptions

Are they different?

Regardless of the variety, all clematis grow the same and do not require an individual approach.

This is wrong. Our gardeners usually deepen the clematia by 10-12 cm. With this planting, the grafted stem develops its own roots, just like on a regular cutting. But each variety requires certain care. Let's say, there are clematiae that are difficult to grow - these are usually large-flowered ones, which get sick more often, are more capricious to weather changes, and small-flowered ones - the newest, exclusive varieties. IN Western Europe For example, amateur gardeners are now increasingly growing small-flowered clematiae, which do not cause many problems. Therefore, the popularity of such varieties is growing every year.

The soil for clematis can be any

Clematis with small flowers are so unpretentious that they don’t care what soil they grow on.

Some clematis need acidic soil, others alkaline. Large-flowered plants, like hybrids of violet and whole-leaved clematis, need acidic soil. Growing in such a place, they get sick less and form new cramps faster. It is good if the soil pH value for large-flowered clematis does not exceed 5.5-6.

At the same time, alkaline soils are good for Tangut, oriental, mountain, European, Korean, and Alpine clematis. But alkaline soils have a disadvantage: a microelement such as iron passes into forms that are indigestible by plants, which leads to chlorosis.

Small and old – care is the same

Caring for clematis in its first year of life is no different from caring for older vines.

The seedling of the first year of planting should be fed with a complex fertilizer with a slight predominance of nitrogen and watered regularly. In the first year, it is important to get a large leaf mass - this will help build a good root system.

The growth pattern of clematis is such that foliage and roots grow alternately. In this case, the soil temperature plays a decisive role. If you plant clematis in the spring, you should not count on rapid root growth, because the optimal soil temperature for this is plus 18-20 degrees at a depth of 20-30 cm. When planting in May, the tops begin to grow, but there is no required volume of roots. Growth is inhibited and the plant experiences stress.

Head in the sun, legs in the shade

It is believed that the root system of clematis should be in the shade, and the top of the plant should be in the sun.

Where to grow large-flowered clematis - in the shade or in the sun - is a secondary question. After all, large-flowered clematis come from the mountainous regions of Asia, where they grow at an altitude of more than 2000 m, and there is no heat there even in summer. Temperature is important. Large-flowered hybrids can hardly tolerate temperatures above plus 25 degrees.

The following pattern can be traced here: the larger the flowers of the vine, the cooler the planting site should be. This means that clematis with large flowers will feel best in the shade. In hot weather they need to be watered.

Do you need a wall?

Clematis should only be planted near a wall so that the vine is protected from the winds.

In fact, clematis are afraid not so much of winds as of heat with stagnant air. Namely, this is the situation that can arise if you plant a vine near a wall or a solid fence, especially on the south side. In such an “oven”, plants may even die.

Another disadvantage of planting against a wall is associated with excessive moisture in the soil under the clematis. Water flowing from the roof has a detrimental effect on the plant, especially during the cold season.

The deeper the better?

To plant clematis, you need a deep hole (at least 50 cm), it should be filled with a nutritious mixture of forest soil, peat, sand and humus.

But German experts believe that this is not the way to plant clematis. When a deep planting hole is dug in heavy soil and filled with another substrate, it turns into something like a barrel. All the water after rains or melting snow is collected in it. And this, as already mentioned, is especially destructive for clematis.

In fact, for this crop, a hole the depth of a spade bayonet and 20 cm in diameter is enough to accommodate the root system. And it must be filled with the same soil that was dug up.

No need to break up a couple

You cannot plant clematis and climbing roses next to each other.

This “couple” seems to be made for each other; it can become a real decoration of any garden. Moreover, seedlings of two plants can even be placed in one planting hole at a distance of 10 cm from each other. Nona-do is sure to dig a piece of slate or sheet plastic to a depth of 40-50 cm, which will delimit the root systems, preventing them from competing with each other.

You can also plant clematis on an adult rose bush, but you need to maintain a larger interval - 20-30 cm. Naturally, a barrier between the two root systems is also necessary. In addition, it is desirable that both plants match each other in appearance.

Tips for clematis from Anna Blazhko

flower crops

annual plants

Clematis have long conquered the hearts of many gardeners and all possible Olympic heights in gardening art. These “aerialists” have a significant number of winter-hardy varieties and species, differing in compactness, height, color and shape of flowers, and location - be it shade or full sun. They are great both in a large garden of a regular or natural style, and in a small front garden. We can say that clematis are at home everywhere.

Clematis from the largest Polish nurseries, which have been successfully selecting and propagating them for a long time, are very popular. The most famous and beloved Polish varieties include: “Jerzy Popieluszko”, “Lech Walesa”, “Bieszczad”, “Westerplatte”, “General Sikorski”, “Warszawska Nike”, “Blekitny Aniol” / “Blue Angel” and many others .

Clematis come from Polish nurseries in two standards: cuttings rooted last season (“one-year-olds” with OKS in the bag), which appear on sale in February-March, and grown two-year-old seedlings in containers - on sale from May.

The greatest number of questions and doubts arise when purchasing and further storing before planting annual clematis with ACS. To many they seem so small, delicate and fragile that “they are scary to pick up.” But this is not true at all. Clematis are very strong plants that can grow quickly and recover from various natural disasters. A one-year-old seedling already has a bunch of well-developed roots at least 10-12 cm long and at least two opposite buds. What’s also captivating about the “one-year-olds” is the impressive range and very reasonable price.

The storage conditions for clematis roots are in many ways similar to the storage conditions for perennials. But, thanks to some physiological features, where there is a “minus” for perennials, there will be a “plus” for clematis.

So, we bought it. We take the clematis out of the package and perform a thorough inspection. Accidentally breaking a young shoot is not a reason to throw out clematis out of frustration. After a short time, new buds form at the base of the cuttings. If you find (which is extremely rare in such “babies”) rotten and damaged roots, carefully trim them back to healthy tissue. Soak the roots for 2 hours in Vitaros (according to instructions).

Next, we evaluate the degree of bud germination. If the sprouts do not exceed 1.5 cm, carefully return the clematis to the packaging, sprinkle it with vermiculite and put it in the refrigerator, cellar or balcony - where it is possible to maintain a temperature of 0 + 5ºС until about mid-March (and there will be more light there). Clematis with large shoots will have to be planted immediately in a container and placed in the brightest and coolest window, having previously insulated the battery. I foresee the question: “What about a cold start?” Let me explain: if, for example, phlox and peonies require an initial temperature of +5 +10ºС for better development, then clematis requires a higher temperature (+18 +20ºС) for rooting.

For the same reason, it is not recommended to rush into planting clematis in open ground. After all, at the beginning of May the soil is still very cold, and the air can warm up to +25ºС. You try to plant clematis according to all the rules, i.e. with the root collar deepened by 8-10 cm. Sprouts, of course, will appear, but the roots, being at a cold depth, practically do not develop and do not feed the plant. Clematis experiences stress, stops growth, and the risk of rotting of the root collar and already grown shoots increases. Even those varieties that are considered quite hardy and will come out of this test with honor will still “slow down” for a long time and catch up, so the advantages of February-March planting in a container are obvious:

You keep clematis like an ordinary houseplant and do not wait for it to get warmer on the balcony or loggia, if any;

The refrigerator is free and used for its intended purpose;

By the time of planting in a permanent place (mid-summer), you get a well-developed, strong plant that can easily catch up with its two-year-old counterparts.

Narrow, tall 1.5-2 liter containers are suitable for planting. These can be cut-off plastic water bottles or special (for long root systems) planting containers with large drainage holes. Pierce the bottom of the bottles in several places and additionally make a couple of horizontal slits on the side, closer to the bottom.

As is known, large-flowered clematis, as well as hybrids of the Viticella and Integrifolia groups (all three groups make up the main assortment of “annuals”) develop well and form new roots in soil with a pH of 5-5.5 (i.e., slightly or moderately acidic) , which must be taken into account when choosing soil for planting. I recommend making the following mixture: BioEarth for flowers (or any other universal soil with vermicompost) + 1.5 cups of vermiculite + 2.5 liters of soil for azaleas or 1 liter of high-moor (red) peat.

We pour a little soil at the bottom of the container and form a cone on which we plant our clematis, evenly distribute the roots, fall asleep, gently shaking the pot. The buds should be buried no more than 1-1.5 cm. Spill. Close to the roots, place 2 tablets of gliocladin at a depth of 3-4 cm (prevention of root rot). Mulch with vermiculite with a layer of 0.5 cm. Stick with internal sides walls of the pot 3 thin bamboo or plastic sticks 40-50 cm high, connect them on top into a pyramid. We will distribute the growing clematis shoots along these supports.

Monitor the moisture - the soil should not dry out or be too wet. Pinch the shoots above the third pair of leaves - this will promote better tillering of clematis and the formation of new buds. Once a week, spray the leaves and soil surface with the following composition: for 1 liter of water, take 2 drops of HB-101 or 1 teaspoon of EcoFus, 1 tablet each of Alirin and Gamaira. It is very important that clematis produces a good mass of leaves in the first year, because... this is directly related to the development of its root system. As soon as the night temperature on your balcony, loggia or country veranda is at least +5ºС, move the clematis there. Shade the windows in April-early May from the bright sun.

In mid-May, bury the containers with clematis in a bright, flood-free place, having first cut off the bottom (the slots on the bottles will come in handy). Place a layer of sand or fine gravel under the container. Be sure to mulch the soil surface. Grass clippings, compost, vermiculite, crushed bark, etc. are suitable. It would be good to install a “collar” 8-10 cm high from a transparent plastic bottle around the container (from slugs, mole crickets, those who like to mow everything with a trimmer and other “friends” of the garden). A hut made of covering material until mid-June will also not hurt.

Garden care includes the same activities as at home: watering, preventive spraying against diseases, combined with foliar feeding, pinching growing shoots, removing the first flowers.

By the end of July, your clematis will have developed excellent roots, the shoots will become stronger and, most importantly, woody at the base. You can plant it in a permanent place according to all the rules, after first cutting the container lengthwise and removing the lower leaves. Do not forget that all clematis in the first year of planting (except for princelings), regardless of the group, are cut by 20 cm and covered before winter.

What else is left to do for clematis? Pick up a stunning prop. It’s up to you to decide what it will be: a pergola, a forged obelisk, a lattice or a pyramid of three wooden stakes driven into the ground. Clematis will decorate any design!

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Clematis can be seen in many areas. This is not surprising, because many people love them for their luxurious flowers, which delight with their magnificent blooms for several weeks..

This beautiful perennial is a relative of the common buttercup. Currently, there are hundreds of species of this flower. For growing in flower beds, clematis, which look like vines, are usually used.

Clematis and its description

These flowers are very diverse. They exist in the form of shrubs, grass, subshrubs, and vines. The roots have the appearance of a rod or sponge. Clematis is a perennial plant. Its trunk becomes woody over time, becoming rigid.

Climbing clematis

Young shoots are thin, green in appearance, round in appearance or with small edges, and begin to grow from the knees located above the ground, as well as from the root system. The leaves come in both simple and complex types, in pairs, and are green in color.

Clematis has single or collected flowers in inflorescences: semi-umbrella, panicle, shield, bisexual. In nature, there are flowers that look like small lanterns, stars and bells.
The petals in flowers are a receptacle with leaves, of which there are from 4 to 8. Fluffy varieties have more than 60 petals.
The flowers are simple in appearance with many stamens in the middle, which resembles a shaggy spider with contrasting colors. The flowers of this plant can take on different shades. This is often influenced by lighting, climate, soil, and weather. For example, varieties grown in warm regions may take on reddish hues.

Choosing a landing site

In order for your plant to take root well and bring you joy with its excellent appearance and flowers, it is very important to choose a good place for landing. Considering that in the open sun the flowers of this plant become small and inconspicuous, it needs to be in partial shade at noon. It is recommended to plant clematis on the eastern side of any structure. Also, this plant does not like drafts and groundwater located near the soil surface, since their stagnation can have a bad effect on the roots.

This plant looks very good against the background of the wall of the house. Moreover, clematis does not like the scorching sun

If you want clematis to grow near the wall of any building, you need to retreat from it - at least 0.8 meters. Immediately install a strong trellis support, taking into account the weight and size of the future plant. Removing it to such a distance will protect the bush from excess water that will drain from the roof and will make caring for the flower easier.

If you want more than one bush of this plant to grow, you need to leave a gap of one and a half meters when planting.

Correct landing: when and how to do it

Clematis, planting and caring for them in the open ground are not difficult.

Planting clematis seedlings

Clematis are flowers that begin to grow in early spring. Its buds begin to wake up at an air temperature of +6 0 C, and young shoots are actively growing already at + 10-13 0 C. Saplings that have open roots (or they are packed in peat soil) need to be planted in the spring, before mid-May. You cannot delay planting such seedlings, thinking that you can wait until the beginning of June. Since by that time they will already be weakened, there is a danger that their death may occur. Plants in containers are planted in open soil in warm time year whenever.

In autumn, these flowers are usually planted in gardens, in flower beds, from the second half of August to October. In the time that remains before severe cold sets in, the plants have time to take root. But being late with planting leads to the fact that, without having time to take root, the young plantings freeze and die.

It may seem that clematis is not for beginners. But any gardener can cultivate it.

Before planting clematis, it is very important:

Clear the area of everything unnecessary (garbage, weeds, etc.)

Prepare a hole 60cm long, 60cm wide, 60cm deep.

We need to pour a layer of drainage into our hole.

Add the pre-prepared nutrient mixture. To do this, mix 16 kg of humus, 200 g. phosphorus fertilizers, 100g. ash, one bucket of good peat, a bucket of coarse sand.
It is important to securely bury the support when planting the plant, so as not to disturb the established roots later.

We leave half of the nutrient mixture in the planting hole, and take out half. We form an elevation, place the plant on top, straighten the roots as far as possible. In clematis, the growing point is usually located below the normal soil level. If the planted flower is under 3 years old, it is deepened to the depth of the palm. This will make it easier for the plant to withstand the heat of summer and the frost of winter, and this will contribute to the development of strong shoots. We fill in the rest of the nutrient mixture, level it, water it abundantly, trample it down, and sprinkle mulch on top. You can also make a cover from direct sun rays until the seedling takes root.

Clematis propagation

Clematis is propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush, and removing shoots. For propagation by diversion, in early autumn the shoots need to be freed from foliage and the upper part removed to a good, full-fledged bud. The prepared shoots are placed in grooves with humus, covered, and compacted. In preparation for winter, the bushes are covered with dry leaves. With the arrival of spring, the grooves open and wait for young shoots to appear. After new plants germinate, they are mulched with humus. Young plants should develop throughout the summer, and in the fall they are transplanted to a place where they will grow continuously. New shoots must be removed very carefully so as not to damage the delicate roots.

In order to propagate this flower by dividing the bush, take five to six year old plants, otherwise it will be almost impossible for the roots, divided into several parts, to take root. The bush must be very carefully dug up, carefully, making sure that each newly formed bush receives at least one bud for further growth, and the mother plant must be divided with a sharp garden tool.

To propagate clematis by cuttings, the cut shoot must be divided into several segments with one node. The cut of the upper part of the segment is straight, the lower part is oblique. The upper part, up to the node, should be up to 3 cm long, the lower part – no more than 10 cm. Prepared cuttings should be planted in boxes and tightly covered with polyethylene or glass. It is also necessary to spray the leaves with water from time to time. Rooting occurs at t +19 – 22 0 C and humidity under cover is 90%. After approximately 8 - 9 weeks, the young plants will have new roots. It is necessary to remove the film from the boxes. Young plants must be gradually accustomed to sunlight.

Thus, wonderful clematis and its cultivation can bring joy to those who decide to have this flower on their estate.

We have already talked about how you can plant clematis in the spring. But if the spring is long and cold, then it’s not worth the risk. In order for clematis seedlings to take root well, it is important that the weather conditions are favorable, i.e. so that the sun does not fry them and spring frosts do not destroy them.

Clematis seedlings

Speaking about how to properly plant clematis, we can mention that when planting you need to carefully examine the roots of the plant and remove damaged, dried parts. This is important to do to facilitate the survival of the seedling.

We have already learned how to propagate clematis. What does caring for these wonderful flowers include?

Care, watering, fertilizer

These luxurious flowers need moisture. They especially need it during the flowering period. If there is not enough moisture, then the flowers of the plant become small, faded, and the leaves also become smaller. The older the flower, the more moisture it needs. Young seedlings are watered once every 5 days in summer, and every other day on dry days. It is necessary to water so that the center of the bush is not damaged by the stream of water. It is necessary that moisture penetrates deep into the root system. To achieve this, it is advisable to dig in pieces of plastic pipe or plastic bottles when planting, directing them towards the central part of the bush. By watering the plant in this way, we will be sure that all the moisture has reached its destination. After watering, it is also important to loosen the soil under your beauty.

Since on dry summer days the plant may suffer from the soil overheating, it is necessary to mulch the bushes, especially young ones.

How to feed clematis so that they live well and bloom for a long time? Fertilizing clematis is done after the plant has already grown. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are used to feed clematis in the spring. First, the flower is watered with clean water, and then watered with a nutrient solution. The second time clematis is fed before flowering, when the buds are already forming. Fertilize with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. These beauties also love microelements; they need to be added once every 15 days during the growing season and flowering. In the fall, it is important to apply phosphorus fertilizer for a safe winter, approximately at the beginning of autumn.

How to grow healthy and beautiful clematis (video)

Proper circumcision

For clematis, pruning is mandatory and important. For different types liana it is carried out individually. What groups are clematis divided into:

Group 1 – this includes species that form buds on overwintered vines. In the fall, unripe, damaged branches are removed; strong ones are pruned, rolled up, laid on the ground, and well covered. This is a shrubby plant species.
Group 2 are those plants that form flower stalks on last year’s branches, and in the fall also on young branches. Such plants are pruned to the length of the branches - up to approximately 100cm. Weak branches are cut out. The entire plant is bent to the ground, protected from frost and cold.
Group 3 – plants that form flowers on newly grown vines. These bushes require complete pruning, but be sure to leave a few stems for regrowth in the spring. The bush itself is also covered. These clematis are herbaceous species.

Thus, proper pruning and covering will contribute to a successful winter, and flowering bushes clematis will delight you.

Covering clematis for the winter

Since clematis can also be propagated by seed, breeders have developed many varieties of this wonderful flower. Clematis are divided into the following varieties:

Hybrid.
Large-flowered.

Description of clematis varieties

Clematis Cardinal

The full name of clematis is Rouge Cardinal. It has long shoots, large, velvety, cherry-colored flowers, up to 15 cm. It blooms from mid-summer, 2 - 3 months. Winter-hardy.

Variety Rouge Cardinal

Ville de Lyon

Clematis variety Ville de Lyon grows long vines, about 3.5 meters. The foliage almost always dries out at the base of the bush. The opened buds are large, up to 15 cm, the petals on the flowers are enlarged, brightly fiery in color, and may turn pale in the sun. The middle is yellow. Flowering is always abundant.

Variety Ville de Lyon

Multi Blue

The clematis variety Multi Blue has beautiful double flowers, more than 13 cm. Blue-violet color. It blooms during all months of summer. The flowers are arranged alternately.

Variety Multi Blue

Clematis President

The variety is different bright colors up to 17 cm in circumference. The flowers are deep blue with purple color, towards the center – bluish. The center is cherry. Buds are formed on all branches. Flowering lasts from late spring to early autumn. The height of the vine is more than two meters.

Variety President

Clematis Hybrid

Includes several varieties. They have a shoot length of more than 2.5 meters, large flowers about 20 cm, collected in bouquets. The bushes are massive, reaching a weight of up to 100 kg during the growing season and flowering. They love places where there are no drafts and the sun shines. Very decorative and colorful. These flowers belong to the clematis grandiflora.

Choosing a place to plant clematis

I want to warn you right away that not one clematis will grow anywhere. This crop has quite strict requirements for habitat and soil substrate.

Clematis cannot be grown in areas with close groundwater, in places flooded by melt water and rainfall. They cannot simply be shoved into the ground unless it has been worked to a sufficient depth, for example in a former vegetable garden or in my uprooted apple tree. In all other cases, the soil is carefully prepared.

These are mostly light-loving plants, which must be taken into account when choosing a bridge for planting them. In light partial shade, only clematis from the Viticella group feel good.

Although in the southern regions these vines must be shaded: there, in full sun, they suffer from the heat, fade and quickly fade.

If you plan to plant clematis near the house, you should not place it on the south side of the building: there it will suffer from the sun.

Rules for planting clematis

So, having finally decided on the location, prepare the landing hole. If the soil on your site leaves much to be desired, then make the soil for planting manually.

Clematis prefer to grow on neutral soils; they do not tolerate acidic loams, which should be alkalized. They are also reluctant to grow in sandy soils, which need to be improved by adding organic matter or even clay. You need to dig a hole that is spacious enough, because with good care, clematis can grow in one place for 20 years and over the years of its life develops a powerful root system.

In the spring, open the clematis gradually, so that the young shoots do not fall under return frosts...

Carefully cover the roots with fertile substrate, part of which was prudently left for these purposes. You should not fill up to the top of the hole, leaving a recess - a “lens” about 10 cm deep.

WHAT TO PLACE IN THE PLANTING PIT FOR CLEMATIS?

If the lump is tightly entwined with roots, it should be “gutted” a little. This is done to stimulate the growth of new roots.

I do not wash the roots of clematis, as is sometimes recommended, so as not to disturb the root system, which is quite fragile: after such a procedure, the plant takes longer to take root.

Place the seedling in the center of the hole so that the growth buds are buried, as in the first case.

Expert advice
In order not to make a mistake with the planting depth, I use a special strip with a piece of a regular school ruler nailed in the middle. I place it like a bridge on top of the hole and adjust the depth, checking the ruler scale. An extremely useful device, which is used not only when planting clematis, but also peonies, that is, when it is necessary to strictly maintain the parameters for deepening the growth buds.

Basics of caring for clematis

The essence of the main agrotechnical measures for caring for clematis is to provide them with the most comfortable existence, taking into account their environmental requirements. Don't like acidic soils?

ON A NOTE
Sometimes you can come across recommendations that advise when planting clematis to cut off the “tops,” so to speak, so that it “better develops the root system” and takes root faster. I know from my own experience that this should absolutely not be done! A two-year-old high-quality seedling has already spent energy on growing shoots, everything is in order with its root system - what kind of survival rate can we talk about when pruning? After all, without the ground part, it is deprived of the opportunity for further development. With such a brutal procedure, it’s good if the plant at least survives. In young clematis, you should only pinch the tops of the shoots - this technique stimulates tillering...

Are the roots and buds of renewal growing upward? Mulching with peat or compost will help.

When it freezes slightly, put a film on top to prevent excess dampness, leaving holes on the sides. In the spring, open the plant gradually, so that the young shoots do not fall under frost.

Planting and caring for clematis - myths and misconceptions

Are they different?

Regardless of the variety, all clematis grow the same and do not require an individual approach.

This is wrong. Our gardeners usually deepen the clematia by 10-12 cm. With this planting, the grafted stem develops its own roots, just like on a regular cutting. But each variety requires certain care. Let's say, there are clematiae that are difficult to grow - these are usually large-flowered ones, which get sick more often, are more capricious to weather changes, and small-flowered ones - the newest, exclusive varieties. In Western Europe, for example, amateur gardeners are now increasingly growing small-flowered clematiae, which do not cause many problems. Therefore, the popularity of such varieties is growing every year.

The soil for clematis can be any

Clematis with small flowers are so unpretentious that they don’t care what soil they grow on.

Small and old – care is the same

Caring for clematis in its first year of life is no different from caring for older vines.

Head in the sun, legs in the shade

It is believed that the root system of clematis should be in the shade, and the top of the plant should be in the sun.

Do you need a wall?

Clematis should only be planted near a wall so that the vine is protected from the winds.

The deeper the better?

To plant clematis, you need a deep hole (at least 50 cm), it should be filled with a nutritious mixture of forest soil, peat, sand and humus.

In fact, for this crop, a hole the depth of a spade bayonet and 20 cm in diameter is enough to accommodate the root system. And it must be filled with the same soil that was dug up.

No need to break up a couple

You cannot plant clematis and climbing roses next to each other.

Tips for clematis from Anna Blazhko

If you decide to purchase seed material, be sure to pay attention to the appearance of the bulbs. Healthy bulbs of flower crops are quite easy to distinguish: they are cleared of soil and leaf residues. Weight and size are important: tulip and daffodil bulbs should have a mass (of course, depending on the size) from 30 to 70 g. Choose gladioli and crocus bulbs that are at least two-thirds the diameter of the bulb itself.
There should be no pests or signs of disease on rhizomes, tubers and other vegetative parts. When purchasing perennial aster and chrysanthemums, estimate the number of stems: there should be at least three. Rhizomes of hosta, peony and lily of the valley should have shoots or buds. And irises must have an annual rhizome with a bunch of roots.
Before planting flowers, it is necessary to add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the soil. They will help the plant resist various fungal diseases.
Excellent precursors for flower crops are onions, garlic, calendula, nasturtiums, marigolds and other plants that fight harmful insects and diseases, and also improve the health of the soil.
Excellent results are achieved by winter sowing of annual and perennial flowering plants. The place for sowing seeds is prepared in advance and a small amount of mineral and organic fertilizers is applied (it all depends on the crop), dug up, and furrows are made. Seeds are sown when stable frosts set in, and the likelihood of warming is not expected, otherwise the seeds may germinate and die from subsequent cold weather. Of the annual plants before winter, you can sow godetia, delphinium, cornflower, iberis, calendula, poppies, and eschscholzia. Among the perennials - seeds of plants that require stratification (ornamental flower, aquilegia, primrose, swimsuit). The sowing method is the same as for annuals, but they can be sown much earlier, because without a period of low temperatures, the seeds of these plants will not begin to germinate.

No matter what plant exhibition a florist finds himself at, he is always looking for that flower that, as they say, has sunk into his soul. And, as a rule, he finds it. But what to do if you suddenly find your favorite clematis in late autumn, when, in fact, there is no point in planting it. Which, in fact, is what many publications on floriculture warn about. Refuse? In no case! Make your dream come true and plant clematis in your garden.

Those who are late will be on time...

The late date is not at all a reason to forget about the desired acquisition, as I was convinced of from my own experience. But what to do with the purchased seedling?

First. You need to carefully study the label attached to the plant. From this information, you will learn, in addition to the name of the variety, the desired height for pruning the vines for the winter (this will be indicated by the designated pruning group).

Second. Take a container with a seedling, take it to the dacha and, without removing the plant from the container, bury it in the garden. But only in a place where there is partial shade, and it is not flooded in the spring. Calculating the depth of the hole is simple: this is the height of the pot plus 10 cm. Such a shelter will help protect the clematis from freezing out the renewal buds, from which new shoots will grow next year.

Third. If you have purchased a variety whose lashes should be preserved, then the container with the seedling must be dug at an angle to the ground, and a feather bed made of spruce spruce branches must be built under the lashes for the winter. However, they do not need shelter from above. After all, if the shelter is poorly ventilated, this can lead to damping out of the plant when winter thaws arrive.

Fourth. When the long-awaited spring comes and the soil thaws, clematis needs to be planted on the site in a permanent place.

Seed propagation

I have read more than once that amateur gardeners are interested in the question: is it possible to grow clematis from seeds? I've done this more than once. But in this matter two important nuances should be taken into account. In particular, only natural species or varieties of clematis close to them can be propagated. For example, the so-called princes. Many of my friends who are lovers of these plants,

tried to experiment to get new large-flowered clematis. But this activity is not for the ignorant. The problem is that varietal characteristics are not transmitted during sowing, and modern varieties are the product of targeted selection and selection from thousands and thousands of seedlings.

Another nuance: the seeds of most types of clematis germinate much better after a long (at least 1.5-2 months) period of stratification (cooling in a wet state). And for some, this is even a prerequisite for obtaining seedlings. This means that purchased seeds must be sown at the beginning - mid-winter in a pot of soil, watered, kept in a room for 1-2 days until they swell, and then taken to the dacha and buried in the snow. In the spring, when it melts, the seeds will begin to germinate. Sometimes not right away, because clematis take a long time to “sway”.

Anna Petrovna BLAZHKO, florist.

Tell us about the features of summer care for clematis. What do these vines need most?

Olga Vasilievna PICHUGINA

Watering

In the warm season, caring for clematis mainly involves watering and fertilizing. Since flowering vines do not tolerate drought well, they should be watered at least once a week, and if it is hot outside, then 2-3 times during the same period.

If the clematis is still young, it will be enough to pour 10 liters of water under one bush; old plantings will require twice as much moisture. But if the summer is very dry, then the given norms should be doubled.

When watering clematis, you need to avoid getting the stream into the center of the bush. You should always use warm water.

After a couple of days, if the soil under the clematis bush is not covered with mulch, it should be loosened so that the root system of the plant can fully breathe.

Feeding

This is also an important component of caring for flowering vines. During the summer they should be fed 4 times. Complex fertilizers are ideal. Since there are now many and very different of them on sale, you can opt for formulations prepared specifically for clematis. For 10 liters of water take 20-40 g of fertilizers.

On a note
Sometimes in the summer, clematis leaves begin to turn yellow, the flowers become smaller, and the plant itself slows down. To give it a new impetus, you need to spray clematis with urea (the solution is prepared at the rate of 0.5-1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

After lush flowering - and this is usually July-August - the vine also needs to be fertilized with potassium sulfate (25-30 g per 10 liters of water). And in order for the plant to survive the winter without problems, at the end of summer it is necessary to add 0.5 tbsp to each bush. l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

By the way, for a liana to delight with a mesmerizing waterfall of beautiful flowers, it cannot do without fertilizing with boric acid. Prepare a solution of 2 g of powder per glass of hot water, then add manganese crystals on the tip of a knife. This mixture is poured into a container with 10 liters of water and fertilized with clematis. This amount will be enough for two vines. But such feeding needs to be done only once a month. In this case, you should water the soil under the vine with clean water in advance.

Clematis is very sensitive to drying out roots and strong drafts, therefore, when planting a plant, you need to take care of its protection by planting hostas, peonies or sedums nearby. Bright annuals are also suitable - marigolds, calendulas, petunias, salvias.

Flowering lacks splendor

Having planted clematis in the garden plot, the gardener naturally expects the plant to bloom lushly. But sometimes this doesn't happen. What to do? This often happens if the vine was pruned incorrectly. The reason for poor flowering can also be a bare root collar. This means you will have to add soil, and then leave the vine alone until next summer, feeding it with complex mineral fertilizer (20-40 g per 10 liters of water).

Another reason for the absence large quantity flowers - the acidic soil on which clematis grows. The solution is simple: you need to shed the soil lime milk, which is prepared as follows: 100 g of fluff lime or dolomite flour is dissolved in a bucket of water.

If one day the clematis flowers become covered with a white coating (and this indicates an attack on the plant powdery mildew), the use of the drugs “Fitosporin-M” or “Topaz” (according to the instructions) will help. For these purposes, you can also use spraying with a solution of soda ash: 30-40 g per 10 liters of water.
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