How to plant two seedlings in one hole. Is it possible to plant several tomatoes? Planting scheme for tomato bushes

According to the author. I constantly grow tomatoes in my garden in open ground. Three beds have been set aside for them - 70-80 bushes in total. I simply don't need more. I plant seedlings in two beds, and in the third I sow tomatoes with seeds directly into the ground. These seedless tomatoes also have time to ripen, only three weeks later than usual.

I have repeatedly heard that some gardeners, when growing tomatoes, plant seedlings together, two roots per hole. And so I also wanted to try this method - for both indeterminate and determinate tomatoes.

And if everything turns out well, then maybe I’ll do this all the time. For seedless tomatoes, I decided not to use this method for now, but first to see how the “double” bushes of seedling tomatoes will grow, and then time will tell.

I always allocate space for tomato beds taking into account crop rotation, always after good predecessors (carrots or onions), and I also strictly make sure that there are no tomatoes or potatoes in this place before for 3-4 years. To plant two roots per hole in the tomato beds, I allocated about a third of the total area.

More tomato seedlings were needed for such a “double” planting. Taking this into account, I prepared in advance required quantity cups and soil. The seedlings were sown, grew successfully, and at the end of May they were planted in prepared beds under shelters installed on arcs.

I planted the seedlings as usual. First, I dug holes in the beds, placed the plants with lumps of soil taken out of the cups in them, then leveled the holes and watered the plantings with warm, settled water. When planting two roots in one hole, I placed not one tomato in the holes, but two - that’s the whole difference. The distance between the holes in the row, as before, was about 40 cm, between the rows - 50-60 cm.

The seedlings of indeterminate tomatoes turned out to be taller; when planted in the ground, they were slightly deeper, but the determinate varieties did not need this.

Caring for “double” tomato bushes was no different at first. Watering, fertilizing, loosening and mulching - everything was done as usual. This was until the time came to form the grown tomato plants. Here I decided to plant indeterminate tomatoes in one stem on “double” bushes (usually I form two). And for determinate tomatoes, I didn’t make any differences in formation between “double” bushes and ordinary ones – I left 3-5 stems on each plant for all of them, although I tried to thin out the “double” bushes more. But here everything depends on the varieties, and it is impossible to maintain accuracy.

The “double” tomatoes grew quickly, gained strength, bloomed and began to set fruit no worse than on single bushes. The fact that the plants were placed very close to each other did not in any way prevent them from developing well. This was until the tomatoes grew a significant amount of green mass, and the time came to trim off the shoots and excess leaves.

It turned out that the “double” determinate tomatoes formed denser thickets, from which I concluded that for such bushes one should not delay pruning - otherwise it becomes difficult to untangle the intricacies of stems, stepsons and leaves.

It was easier in this regard with indeterminate “double” bushes, because initially they formed into one stem, and there was no large thickening there.

But in general, the pruning turned out to be not much more difficult than usual, and I successfully completed it. This procedure always causes “oohs and aahs” from my household when I mercilessly remove a whole mountain of stepsons and stems! But it's worth it - the tomatoes are only better for it! It has been tested for years - without pruning, the fruits become smaller and the yield drops noticeably.

Otherwise, the “double” planting of tomatoes worked very well. I didn’t specifically calculate it, but visually the yield on such bushes was noticeably greater, and the fruits turned out to be no smaller than on single bushes.

I fertilized all the tomatoes twice with a solution of chicken manure (1 to 15, one bucket for 10-15 bushes), poured it not at the roots, but into the grooves next to the rows - and, apparently, all the tomatoes had enough nutrition.

Along the way, it turned out that it was in vain to form “double” indeterminate tomatoes into one stem; it was necessary to do it as for ordinary bushes - in two. Plants formed into one stem began to stretch upward excessively, which created some inconvenience with temporary shelters in the beds. And the stepchildren grew up too actively on them. But there was no noticeable enlargement of the fruits and their quantity. Judging by appearance tomatoes in “double” bushes - they would have enough nutrition for a double-stem formation. Next time I'll definitely do that.

When the fruiting season of my favorite tomatoes finally ended, I began to sum up the results simple experiment. I’ll say right away that despite the difficult season, the “double” bushes showed their worth the best side. The yield per unit area was perhaps not twice as high, but noticeably greater than that of single tomatoes. The fruits also did not disappoint - they ripened on time, and were no smaller than those on ordinary bushes. Caring for “double” bushes turned out to be ordinary, you just need to be a little more careful with their pruning, and, most importantly, do it on time. As for the rest - everything is as simple as shelling pears!

The only relative inconvenience turned out to be that for such a “double” planting, twice as many seedlings are required. But I don’t have all the tomatoes, so I need to grow double the amount of tomato seedlings serious problems has no idea.

Indeed, I prepare my own seeds, I prepare the soil myself, there are plenty of cups, there is plenty of space on the loggia - nothing complicated!

The conclusion is simple. This season I will grow all seedling tomatoes with two roots per hole. Both indeterminate and determinant. I’ll even try to grow some of the seedless ones, and I’ll plant a few of the low-growing determinate ones, even three roots per hole. I'll see if it gets even better!

GROWING TOMATOES WITH TWO ROOTS IN ONE HOLE Personal experience of the author. I constantly grow tomatoes in my country garden in open ground. Three beds have been set aside for them - 70-80 bushes in total. I simply don't need more. I plant seedlings in two beds, and in the third I sow tomatoes with seeds directly into the ground. These seedless tomatoes also have time to ripen, only three weeks later than usual. I have repeatedly heard that some gardeners, when growing tomatoes, plant seedlings together, two roots per hole. And so I also wanted to try this method - for both indeterminate and determinate tomatoes. And if everything turns out well, then maybe I’ll do this all the time. For seedless tomatoes, I decided not to use this method for now, but first to see how the “double” bushes of seedling tomatoes will grow, and then time will tell. I always allocate space for tomato beds taking into account crop rotation, always after good predecessors (carrots or onions), and I also strictly make sure that there are no tomatoes or potatoes in this place before for 3-4 years. To plant two roots per hole in the tomato beds, I allocated about a third of the total area. More tomato seedlings were needed for such a “double” planting. Taking this into account, I prepared the required number of cups and soil in advance. The seedlings were sown, grew successfully, and at the end of May they were planted in prepared beds under shelters installed on arcs. I planted the seedlings as usual. First, I dug holes in the beds, placed the plants with lumps of soil taken out of the cups in them, then leveled the holes and watered the plantings with warm, settled water. When planting two roots in one hole, I placed not one tomato in the holes, but two - that’s the whole difference. The distance between the holes in the row, as before, was about 40 cm, between the rows - 50-60 cm. The seedlings of indeterminate tomatoes turned out to be taller, they were slightly deeper when planted in the ground, but the determinate varieties did not need this. Caring for “double” tomato bushes was no different at first. Watering, fertilizing, loosening and mulching - everything was done as usual. This was until the time came to form the grown tomato plants. Here I decided to plant indeterminate tomatoes in one stem on “double” bushes (usually I form two). And for determinate tomatoes, I didn’t make any differences in formation between “double” bushes and ordinary ones – I left 3-5 stems on each plant for all of them, although I tried to thin out the “double” bushes more. But here everything depends on the varieties, and it is impossible to maintain accuracy. The “double” tomatoes grew quickly, gained strength, bloomed and began to set fruit no worse than on single bushes. The fact that the plants were placed very close to each other did not in any way prevent them from developing well. This was until the tomatoes grew a significant amount of green mass, and the time came to trim off the shoots and excess leaves. It turned out that the “double” determinate tomatoes formed denser thickets, from which I concluded that for such bushes one should not delay pruning - otherwise it becomes difficult to untangle the intricacies of stems, stepsons and leaves. It was easier in this regard with indeterminate “double” bushes, because initially they formed into one stem, and there was no large thickening there. But in general, the pruning turned out to be not much more difficult than usual, and I successfully completed it. This procedure always causes “oohs and aahs” from my household when I mercilessly remove a whole mountain of stepsons and stems! But it's worth it - the tomatoes are only better for it! It has been tested for years - without pruning, the fruits become smaller and the yield drops noticeably. Otherwise, the “double” planting of tomatoes worked very well. I didn’t specifically calculate it, but visually the yield on such bushes was noticeably greater, and the fruits turned out to be no smaller than on single bushes. I fertilized all the tomatoes twice with a solution of chicken manure (1 to 15, one bucket for 10-15 bushes), poured it not at the roots, but into the grooves next to the rows - and, apparently, all the tomatoes had enough nutrition. Along the way, it turned out that it was in vain to form “double” indeterminate tomatoes into one stem; it was necessary to do it as for ordinary bushes - in two. Plants formed into one stem began to stretch upward excessively, which created some inconvenience with temporary shelters in the beds. And the stepchildren grew up too actively on them. But there was no noticeable enlargement of the fruits and their quantity. Judging by the appearance of the tomatoes in the “double” bushes, they would have enough nutrition for a double-stem formation. Next time I'll definitely do that. When the fruiting season of my favorite tomatoes finally ended, I began to sum up the results of this simple experiment. I’ll say right away that despite the difficult season, the “double” bushes showed their best side. The yield per unit area was perhaps not twice as high, but noticeably greater than that of single tomatoes. The fruits also did not disappoint - they ripened on time, and were no smaller than those on ordinary bushes. Caring for “double” bushes turned out to be ordinary, you just need to be a little more careful with their pruning, and, most importantly, do it on time. As for the rest - everything is as simple as shelling pears! The only relative inconvenience turned out to be that for such a “double” planting, twice as many seedlings are required. But I only have a few tomatoes, and growing a double amount of tomato seedlings does not present any serious problems. Indeed, I prepare my own seeds, I prepare the soil myself, there are plenty of cups, there is plenty of space on the loggia - nothing complicated! The conclusion is simple. This season I will grow all seedling tomatoes with two roots per hole. Both indeterminate and determinant. I’ll also try to grow some of the seedless ones, and I’ll even plant a few of the low-growing determinate ones, even three roots per hole. I'll see if it gets even better!

Although pepper is considered a demanding plant when it comes to care and optimal growing locations, experienced gardeners They are starting to grow this crop everywhere. In order to get a generous harvest of pepper, you need to strictly adhere to the basic recommendations; only in this case will you be able to grow a full-fledged vegetable crop in your garden.

Many beginning gardeners are concerned about the question: is it even possible to plant several sprouts at once in a hole when planting? After all, there are specialists who are deeply confident that this is not the most The best way. Of course, in the entire batch of young peppers there will be some weak and frail root. However, in most cases, gardeners prefer the universal method, that is, they decide to place one sprout in each hole.

However, this is not the only pepper planting technique. A method called square-nested is considered to be quite common today. What is such a method? We plant homemade peppers two at a time in one hole dug prematurely. It is very important to observe the dimensions: 60 cm by 60 cm. In such recesses you can place two peppers in each hole. Experts recommend immediately placing pegs near the peppers, since the sprouts themselves are quite fragile.

Interestingly, it is recommended to plant the plant in the ground in evening time. However, you should not leave the seedlings to outdoors. It is necessary to cover it with film. Remember that a lot depends on the planting period vegetable crop. If this is done in mid-May, then you may well need to double cover the seedlings with film. The thing is that in spring the weather is still changeable, and high temperatures during the day does not mean that at night the peppers you planted in the ground will not suffer from fairly low temperature indicators. Experts say that in order for the farmer to be able to harvest decent harvest, it is advisable not to remove this film at all, in as a last resort it is not necessary to do this before the middle June.

Video “When to plant peppers”

From the video you will learn when to plant this crop correctly.

Distance

Is it possible to plant 2 peppers in one hole? Without a doubt. The main thing is to adhere to the basic requirements of specialists. Just a small depression for planting two pepper sprouts in it at once is not enough. It is necessary to strictly follow the technology of the square-nest method. It assumes the presence of a hole measuring 60 x 60 cm. In this case, you can get a complete result.

As the planted pepper begins to grow stronger, it needs to be properly and thoroughly cared for. Special attention need to pay attention to watering. There is no need to go overboard with daily moistening of the soil; it will be enough to fill the holes with water twice a week.

But your knowledge of how to grow peppers at home should not end there. Do not neglect regular feeding. They don't have to be frequent. However, it is recommended to fertilize the soil the first time as soon as you notice that the vegetable has begun to bloom, and the second time during the fruiting period.

Experience shows that if you put the results of growing peppers using the square-cluster and universal method on the scale, then the first technique will be much more effective. In addition, experienced gardeners believe that it is the square-cluster method of planting peppers that ultimately gives the farmer much larger fruits and in much larger quantities. Knowing how to plant peppers correctly and at what distance it is recommended, you can see the difference between two radically different techniques for growing peppers at home. Each method has its own individual benefits, however, one thing is certain: planting two peppers in one hole is best option for any gardener. Those who like to experiment will certainly pay attention to this method.

They also have time to ripen, only three weeks later than usual.

I have repeatedly heard that some gardeners plant seedlings together when growing tomatoes. two roots per hole. And so I also wanted to try this method - how for indeterminate, and for determinate tomatoes.

I always allocate space for tomato beds taking into account crop rotation, always after good predecessors ( carrots or onions), and I also strictly ensure that there are no tomatoes or potatoes in this place for 3-4 years. To plant two roots per hole in the tomato beds, I allocated about a third of the total area.

More tomato seedlings were needed for such a “double” planting. Taking this into account, I prepared the required number of cups and soil in advance. The seedlings were sown, grew successfully, and at the end of May was planted on prepared beds under shelters installed on arcs.

I planted the seedlings as usual. First, I dug holes in the beds, placed the plants with lumps of soil taken out of the cups in them, then leveled the holes and watered the plantings with warm, settled water. When planting two roots in one hole in the holes I placed not one tomato, but two- that's the whole difference. The distance between the holes in the row, as before, was about 40 cm, between the rows - 50-60 cm.

The seedlings of indeterminate tomatoes turned out to be taller, when planted in the ground deepened it a little, but determinate varieties did not need this.

Caring for “double” tomato plants at first was no different. Watering, fertilizing, loosening and mulching - everything was done as usual. This was until it was time to form grown tomato plants. Here I decided to plant indeterminate tomatoes on “double” bushes in one stem(usually I form at two). And for determinate tomatoes, I didn’t make any differences in formation; I left “double” bushes and regular ones for everyone 3-5 stems each on each plant, although I tried to thin out the “double” bushes more. But here everything depends on the varieties, and it is impossible to maintain accuracy.

The “double” tomatoes grew quickly, gained strength, bloomed and began to set fruit no worse than on single bushes. The fact that the plants were placed very close to each other did not in any way prevent them from developing well. This was until the tomatoes grew a significant amount of green mass, and the time came to trim off the shoots and excess leaves.

It turned out, “double” determinate tomatoes formed denser clumps, from which I concluded that for such bushes one should not delay pruning - otherwise it becomes rather difficult to untangle the intricacies of stems, stepsons and leaves.

With indeterminate “double” bushes it was easier in this regard, because initially they formed into one stem, and there wasn't much thickening there.

But in general, the pruning turned out to be not much more difficult than usual, and I successfully completed it. This procedure always causes “oohs and aahs” from my household when I mercilessly remove a whole mountain of stepsons and stems! But it's worth it - this only makes tomatoes better! It has been tested for years - without pruning, the fruits become smaller and the yield drops noticeably.

Otherwise “double” planting of tomatoes showed very good results. I didn’t specifically calculate it, but visually the yield on such bushes was noticeably greater, and the fruits turned out to be no smaller than on single bushes.

All tomatoes were fertilized twice with a solution of chicken manure ( 1 to 15, one bucket for 10-15 bushes), he poured it not at the roots, but into the grooves next to the rows - and, apparently, all the tomatoes had enough nutrition.

Along the way, it turned out that it was in vain to form “double” indeterminate tomatoes into one stem; it was necessary to do it as for ordinary bushes - at two. Plants formed into one stem began to stretch upward excessively, which created some inconvenience with temporary shelters in the beds. And the stepchildren grew up too actively on them. But there was no noticeable enlargement of the fruits and their quantity. Judging by the appearance of the tomatoes in the “double” bushes, they would have enough nutrition for a double-stem formation. Next time I'll definitely do that.

Why do I plant tomatoes with two roots in one hole? How does this affect the harvest?

Caring for tomatoes takes me about 2-3 hours a week. I grow tomatoes in 2 trunks, in addition, I also plant them in twos. That is, 20 holes, but 40 roots.

Of course, it is more difficult to care for such plantings, but not twice as difficult. My greenhouses are 3x4m, so it’s cramped, but no offense.

Like all crops, I mulch tomatoes with a thick layer of grass (15-20 cm). Tomatoes really like this, because if you lift the mulch, you can see how the roots of the tomatoes spread under the mulch, and literally penetrate the mulch itself.

I view mulch not so much as protection from weeds and reducing water evaporation, but as a fertilizer that comes slowly and surely all season long. This grass must be eaten by one of the soil inhabitants, and something that can be easily absorbed by the plants will end up in the soil. Large, and especially dry grass is eaten slowly, which is why I always pay attention to what kind of grass I lay out. Not hay, not grass from under the trimmer, not dried grass, but fresh small grass. Electric lawn mower with grass catcher! I lay it out immediately, without drying it. I always water over the grass.

Microorganisms and worms eat organic matter near the roots. Plus, the tomato trunk is buried 20-25 cm into the ground and it is overgrown with roots. The tomatoes have enough nutrition; I no longer use any fertilizers.

I add herbs 3-4 times over the summer. Each time 15-20 cm.

The most labor-intensive process is tying. I tie each trunk to the ceiling. If one trunk interferes greatly with the other, then I use a garter to change the direction of growth of the trunk.

Determinate varieties

This is what a tied determinate variety looks like.

I plant determinate varieties in the outer beds, near the walls of the greenhouse.

The tomato clusters are heavy, so I also tie them up.

Of course, I trim the leaves starting from the bottom. I cut off the leaves that lie on the flowers of neighboring plants, this is mandatory, otherwise the tomato does not set fruit well. The flowering brush should be free and well ventilated.

If you do a specific haircut, then ONLY ON A SUNNY DAY, before this, do not water for at least 3 days (preferably 5), after pruning, do not water for a day. This is when there is a brutal pruning, and the entire passage is littered with leaves, one or two leaves can be cut off anyway.

Why on a sunny day? When pruned, juice begins to flow from the cut. On a sunny day, the wound heals in the evening, on a cloudy day - 2 days. Watering is also for this reason - than less water, the less juice flows from the wound. Pruning also depends on the density of plantings; you can trim half a leaf at a time.

Indeterminate varieties

I plant indeterminate varieties in the middle bed and also tie them to the ceiling.

On these varieties of tomatoes, I definitely tie the trusses.

I water when the mulch in the garden dries out, about once a week, in extreme heat, 2 times a week. Be sure to water the entire mulched bed, that is, along the grass, and not just under the roots.