home · Measurements · Where is the best place to plant astilbe on the site? Astilbe flower - planting and care in open ground, the best varieties and methods of propagation. Growing crops from seeds at home

Where is the best place to plant astilbe on the site? Astilbe flower - planting and care in open ground, the best varieties and methods of propagation. Growing crops from seeds at home

I love astilbe! Such a variety of species, colors and varieties of inflorescences can rarely be found in perennials. It can grow in one place for a long time. Attractive inflorescences remain on its bushes for a long time. The unpretentiousness of the plant allows even the most novice gardener to grow it. Astilbe is appropriate both in a country flower bed and in a ceremonial flower garden. For those who have not grown it on their plot, we will tell you more about it - what the plant looks like, what types and varieties exist, how to choose and plant, how to care for it.

Astilbe is a herbaceous perennial belonging to the genus Saxifraga. There are up to 40 species in the world. This name was given to the plant by the Scottish botanist Hamilton - “A” means without, “stilbe” - shine - the leaves are without shine, matte, dull. East Asia, North America, and Japan are considered the homeland of astilbe. There, the perennial grows in moist deciduous forests along streams. Europeans were introduced to this plant by Karl Thunberg and von Siebold. These hunters unusual plants Astilbe was brought home in the 18th and early 19th centuries. From that time on, she became a favorite of shady gardens.

Astilbe is a rhizomatous, herbaceous perennial. The herbaceous part that grows over the summer dies off in the fall. Erect shoots can grow from 8 cm to 2 m - depending on the type and variety. Serrated simple or pinnate leaves sit on long petioles. The color of the leaf blade is from reddish-green to dark green. The woody rhizome can be loose or dense, depending on the species. New shoots grow on the upper part in the spring, and Bottom part dies. Under a layer of snow, the plant tolerates frosts down to -37 °C.

Small white, pink, lilac, purple or red flowers bloom on lacy apical panicles different sizes. Peak flowering occurs in mid-summer and lasts about a month. Small seeds ripen in the seed capsule - 1 g contains up to 20,000 seeds.

Astilbe flowers, depending on the type, are collected in inflorescences of various shapes. They can be paniculate, rhombic, pyramidal or drooping.


Astilbe with paniculate inflorescences. Its numerous branches with many branches extend from the main axis at an acute angle and shorten towards the apex.


Astilbe with pyramidal inflorescences - the lateral branches extend from the main axis almost at a right angle and are evenly shortened from the base to the top, the outline of the inflorescence looks like a regular pyramid.


Astilbe with rhombic inflorescences. Branching out from the main stem at an acute angle, they form a diamond shape. Such inflorescences are characteristic of Japanese astilbe.


Astilbe with drooping inflorescences in the form of arches, gracefully hanging from the main axis. Such inflorescences are more often found in astilbe Thunberg and Lemoine.


The decorative effect of the variety depends on the density and size of the flowers. Inflorescences with several shades, such as “Peach and Cream”, “Montgomery”, “White Wings” look especially original.

Varieties with photos

Today at garden design No more than 12 species of astilbe are used, from which many hybrids have been bred. The most famous of them are Arends hybrids (Arendsii Hybrida), Japanese hybrids (Japonica Hybrida), Chinese astilbe (Astilbe Chinensis), and simple-leaved astilbe (Astilbe simplicifolia).

Astilbe rentsa


Astilbe rentsa

There are about 40 varieties bred by crossing Astilbe David with other species. Most of these are tall (up to 1 m) plants, spreading pyramidal or spherical. White, pink, red or lilac flowers bloom above the dark green leaves. Flowering lasts for more than a month from July to mid-August.

Astilbe japonica


Montgomery variety

It most often does not grow higher than 80 cm. The compact bushes have shiny leaves and panicle inflorescences of pink or white color. This variety of astilbe begins to bloom earlier than others; dried flowers retain their attractiveness until the end of the season. New varieties are unpretentious to growing conditions and resistant to low temperatures.

Cultivated varieties: Deutschland - white panicles, pink Rhineland, soft lilac and elegant Europe, Montgomery with bright red or burgundy fluffy panicles.

Astilbe chinensis


Vision in Pink

It is a herbaceous shrub about a meter high. The leaves are of different sizes - those growing from the base of the bush are large, on long petioles; those growing on the stem are smaller, with short petioles. Dense inflorescences can grow up to 30-35 cm, most often lilac, less often white or pink. Can grow in sunny flower beds. The most famous varieties: “Purpurlanze” of an unusual lilac color, pink “Vision in Pink”, “Vision in Red” dark purple.


Astilbe Gloria


Astilbe Gloria

Astilbe white


Astilbe white

Astilbe amethyst


Astilbe amethyst

Astilbe simplefolia


Astilbe simplefolia

Plants of this species and varieties bred on their basis are very sensitive to elevated temperatures and low air humidity. The drooping inflorescences of these short plants (up to 50 cm) give the plantings a special airiness. Varieties with white candle inflorescences - Praecox Alba, pink - Bronze Elegans, coral Ostrich feather - have been bred.

Astilbe unic


Younique Silver Pink

In the 2000s. created a new group Younique varieties. This group includes varieties with snow-white, lilac Younique Lilac, pink Younique Silvery Pink and almost red graceful inflorescences of Younique Carmine. The inflorescences of these varieties are both delicate and lush, without a long peduncle, growing from a mass of leaves.


In order to admire the flowering of astilbe every year, it needs to be replanted and planted on time.

The most suitable period for this event is the end of summer (August) - the beginning of autumn.

The flowering of the plant has already ended, and the cold weather is still far away - the plant will have time to take root and prepare for the winter.

The experience of many gardeners recommends planting and dividing astilbe bushes after 4 years. A feature of astilbes can be considered their gradual protrusion from the soil - the rhizomes grow upward, dying off from below. After some time, the roots become bare. This phenomenon can be eliminated by annually adding soil or compost to the exposed rhizome. This procedure allows you not to replant the plant, but only to divide and plant it.


Many gardeners purchase astilbe seedlings online or in garden centers. Plants in such trading companies are packaged in bags, which in most cases are stored in a dark place. The rhizomes germinate, but the resulting shoots stretch from lack of light, turn pale green and become curved. Planted in open ground, such seedlings get sick for a long time and do not take root well.

Advice. Purchase planting material worth as soon as possible, as soon as the seedlings go on sale. Store in the refrigerator until planting, checking its condition periodically.

Storing seedlings in a cool place will prevent the buds from sprouting.
From the whole variety of bags with rhizomes, it is worth choosing those in which it is clear that the seedlings are alive, the shoots are small, fresh and green. Saplings with long, pale and thin sprouts will also take root if the rhizome is not dry and rotten. In the first year of life in a flowerbed, such a plant will take a long time to adapt to new conditions, will produce weak growth and will not bloom.

Most big choice Astilbe planting material can be seen in chain stores at a time when the planting of plants in the ground is still far away - in February - March. How to preserve acquired rhizomes until the time when they can be planted in open ground?

Astilbes will easily tolerate indoor maintenance before planting in the flower garden. One of the storage options is household refrigerator or basement. A positive temperature close to zero is needed. Plastic containers with ventilation holes are filled with a moistened substrate - sawdust, coconut fiber, light earth or moss. The rhizomes are placed on the surface and lightly covered with the same substrate. In this state, astilbe will survive until spring without loss.

Rhizomes in which buds have awakened and sprouts have appeared can be planted in a flower pot and placed on the windowsill. Water as needed, avoiding overwatering. It is necessary to plant seedlings with regrown leaves in the flower garden after the end of frost. At first, such plants need to be protected from excessive sun.


Planting any plant begins with choosing a location. Astilbe requires light shading, partial shade. In an open sunny meadow, astilbe will feel uncomfortable. The flowering of perennials in such places is more abundant, but ends faster and the shoots have a paler color.

The choice of planting site is also influenced by the flowering period of the seedling. Varieties with early and late The flowers bloom equally in both sun and shade. Medium-flowering varieties are more suitable for shaded areas, where the astilbe will be protected from the hot midday sun.

Loamy soil, acidity pH 5.5-6.5, and the surrounding air should be moist. The perennial will be especially grateful for the close location of groundwater. Only Chinese astilbe can tolerate slight drying out of the soil. For other species, dried soil is like death. The perennial will feel very good on the shore of a decorative pond.

The best spring term It is considered to be planted in May-June.

When preparing a site for planting, dig it up, remove the roots of perennial weeds, add 2 buckets of organic matter per 1 m2

Preparing the landing hole. Its size should be such that the rhizomes of the seedling can fit freely in it. We loosen the bottom of the hole, pour in organic matter, you can spill it with liquid vermicompost or any other fertilizer diluted according to the instructions. In areas where there may be a lack of moisture in the summer, hydrogel granules can be added to the soil when planting.

Place the rhizome on the prepared soil. The planting depth should be such that there is 4-5 cm of soil above the base of the sprouts. It is necessary to sprinkle the seedling with substrate, taking into account the fact that the watered soil will settle and the roots may end up on the surface. The hole around the seedling will not allow water to spread over the surface, but will direct it to the roots.

Mulch in the planting hole will retain moisture and make it easier for the plant to adapt to a new location. pouring protective layer Leave a space of 3-4 cm around the sprouts free of mulch. Humus, sawdust, pine needles or crushed bark can be used as such a layer.

In dry weather, astilbe will need to be watered every other day until the young leaves appear.
When planting perennials in groups, leave 40 to 50 cm of free space between adjacent plants.

Planting astilbe: video


Planted on fertilized soil, astilbe grows in one place for up to seven years. With careful care and timely feeding and watering, this period can increase to twenty.

In the spring, after the snow melts, the plantings are fertilized. Liquid fertilizers reach the root layer faster. You can mulch the seedlings with organic material. Throughout the growing season, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture at the proper level.

When the astilbe flowering ends and the flower stalks dry up, it is better to leave them on the plant - even when dried they look impressive. When preparing plantings for winter, the above-ground part of the perennial is cut off at ground level and the plantings are covered with them. For additional protection To protect the bush from frost, you can use coniferous spruce branches or tops of vegetable plants.

From the moment shoots emerge in spring until mid-summer, it is very important to remove weeds in plantings. Towards the end of summer, the rhizomes of astilbe grow so much that they can choke out the weeds on their own.


Astilbe, like a stranger from another climate zone, did not start in our latitudes large quantity enemies among insects and microorganisms. Most great harm This perennial is attacked by pennies and two types of nematodes - root-knot and strawberry.

The pennies create foam-like nests for their larvae in the leaf axils. Under the influence of the pest, astilbe withers. Any insecticidal preparation can destroy the pest.

Plants damaged by strawberry nematodes become covered with necrotic spots, their buds, leaves and flowers are deformed.


You need to prepare a newly planted astilbe bush for wintering in advance - in the summer. In plants of the first year of life in a new place, the peduncle is removed as soon as it separates. Throughout the season, the soil around the bush is weeded and weeds are removed. When loosening the crust on the soil surface, you need to do this carefully, trying to keep the young roots intact.

After the first autumn frosts, cut off the blackened leaves at ground level and place them on the growing bushes. Then an earthen mound about 4 cm high is created above the bush, and then the astilbe growth area is covered with dry leaves or peat. Crushed bark or humus will also work.

On the bushes of the second and subsequent years of life, flower stalks are left, and for the winter they are insulated in the same way with peat or fallen leaves. Every year, the astilbe rhizomes rise higher and soon begin to protrude from the ground, becoming defenseless against the winter cold. Astilbes frozen in winter become less decorative.

Four to five year old astilbe plants are fully covered before the onset of frost. First, cut off the foliage and flower stalks. At the next stage, a frame is built into which insulation can be placed - dry leaves or tops. You can secure the leaves in the frame non-woven material spunbond or lutrasil. You need to protect the plantings from getting wet with plastic film pressed along the edges.

Strong, healthy plant It will more easily withstand winter cold and return frosts.

You can increase the immunity of astilbe by applying potassium and phosphorus fertilizers in the fall. Under each bush, 50 g of a fertilizer mixture is scattered in a 1:1 ratio. Good results are obtained by using well-rotted organic matter - manure or compost. Slowly decomposing organic matter warms the bush in winter and provides nutrition in an accessible form in summer.

Reproduction

There are several ways to propagate astilbe: by seeds, renewal buds and dividing the bush. Most often they propagate vegetatively - by dividing the bush, but when propagated by seeds, you can get new varieties and engage in selection.


Astilbe seeds are so small that they can only be seen through a magnifying glass. To collect 1g of seeds you need to collect 20,000 of them. Ripe seeds quickly spill out of the seed pods. To collect seeds, inflorescences are cut off in September and placed on paper in a warm, dry place and kept for two weeks to a month. The spilled seeds are collected and stored in a paper bag.

At seed propagation Sowing begins in March. Choose a wide container, about 15 cm deep. A mixture of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio is used as soil. Snow is poured onto the soil in a layer of 1 cm. You can replace natural snow with artificial snow - from the freezer. You can distribute the seeds evenly over the surface of the snow by mixing them with liquid. The seeds are poured into a solution of a growth stimulator and sown with a pipette on the surface of the snow. On a white background, the seeds are visible especially clearly and they can be distributed more evenly. The melted snow will moisten the soil and draw the seeds to the required depth.


After waiting for the snow to melt, place a container with seeds in a transparent bag, or even better, wrapped in cling film, placed in the refrigerator for three weeks. During this time, shoots appear in the container. The green container is transferred to a warm, bright place. You need to water the sprouts especially carefully - you can water them with a sprinkler and a fine spray of water or with a syringe without a needle. Seedlings with 2-3 true leaves are picked into separate pots and subsequently planted in the ground.

Sowing astilbe seeds: video

Reproduction by renewal buds

  • With the beginning of the growth of shoots or renewal buds, they are cut off with a piece of rhizome.
  • Wounds are disinfected with crushed charcoal or cinnamon powder.
  • Sections with buds are planted in a mixture of gravel and peat, in a ratio of 1:3, and covered with polyethylene (film or a cut bottle).
  • In the fall of the current year or spring of the next year, the seedlings are transplanted to permanent place.


The easiest and most reliable way to propagate astilbe is vegetatively - by dividing the bush. The best results are produced by bushes aged 3-4 years. The rhizome of a perennial dug out of the ground is divided into parts with pruning shears or a shovel. There should be at least two buds on each division. The lower parts of the rhizome are removed. The resulting parts of the plant are planted in new places or wrapped in damp cloth and kept in a plastic bag, preventing the roots from drying out.

It is better to divide and plant astilbe in early spring, before flowering begins. Propagation of a perennial in the fall must be done in such a way that the plant has enough time to take root before the onset of frost, i.e. in August-early September. The plants tolerate the division procedure well, quickly take root in a new place and bloom the next year.

Astilbe: cultivation, care, reproduction: video


Landscape designers value astilbe for its long-lasting decorative effect and resistance to high level groundwater, the ability to grow in the shade of tall plants. Openwork leaves, sitting on reddish cuttings, attract attention throughout the garden season.

Young purple leaves that gradually turn green and take on an unusual shape look attractive in the flower garden. An additional bonus for carved leaves is a long flowering period, more than a month. Various shapes and shades of inflorescences decorate the flower garden from mid-summer to autumn.

Astilbe in the making flower arrangements can be used both individually and in group plantings, combining colors and sizes of different varieties.


Astilbe is a universal plant; it will be welcome in any type of landscape design. Low-growing bushes can be used in the foreground of the composition, while medium-growing bushes will decorate the middle and background of the plantings. Tall people will decorate what they want to hide, camouflage it outbuildings or an unsightly fence. Low growing varieties would be appropriate on an alpine hill or scree. They can also be used to frame garden paths.


Low-growing varieties of astilbe can be used as a border for flower beds and lawns. An astilbe bush in a flower pot will decorate open veranda or a garden gazebo.
This perennial looks impressive against the background of conifers such as thujas or junipers. Successful combination astilbe with hostas and ferns.

The carved leaves of the perennial will look even more delicate when planted together with hellebore, bergenia, podophyllum, Rogersia or mantle. Very interesting combination astilbes with daylilies, aquilegias, lilies, geraniums, phlox or ferns. Planted together with hosta, astilbe enhances the beauty of its leaves, and the leaves retain soil moisture for astilbe.

Joint planting of astilbe and ground cover plants (saxifrage, tenacious, jasmine) achieves two goals - in early spring, when the astilbe is not yet visible, the ground covers create an attractive spot, then the astilbe that has grown and gained color attracts attention to itself. In the hot season, ground covers protect the astilbe growth site from overheating.

In the spring garden, astilbe plantings are combined with primroses, crocuses, lilies of the valley, rhododendrons, and tulips.

Planted in the company of tall flowers, astilbe camouflages the bare stems of its neighbors. It is one of the rare ornamental plants that grow and bloom well in conditions of lack of sun and excess moisture. If necessary, you can plant astilbes under trees, but this must be done at least 1.5 meters away from the tree trunk. With such planting, the roots of the tree will not be damaged and the astilbe will not be oppressed.


You can enjoy the flowering of astilbe in winter. To do this, it is enough to make a distillation.

Two to three year old bushes will bloom most readily at home. Suitable bushes are dug up at the end of September and, divided into two or three parts, planted in flower pots with a diameter of at least 13 cm. The substrate needs to be loose and nutritious - turf soil, leaf soil, compost and sand (2: 2: 2: 1). The planted plant is watered and placed in a greenhouse. For the winter, planted astilbe is insulated.

The pot is brought into the heat at the end of December and left in a cool place at a temperature no higher than +12 degrees. Watering should be done moderately. After about twenty days, shoots appear. The plant is transferred to more warm room Where it’s about +20, watering is increased. In a month or a month and a half, astilbe may bloom. One bush can grow up to seven full inflorescences.

If emerging shoots that have grown to 8-9 cm are sprayed with growth stimulants, the onset of flowering will accelerate. Gibbersib allows you to get flowers for 17-21 days, increase the number of inflorescences and the length of the peduncle. Astilbe flowers become exquisitely elegant.
Subsequently, the bush can be moved outdoors, or it can be grown indoors.

Planting and caring for astilbe is not difficult. Grow this bright perennial and delight yourself with astilbe flowers.

Increasingly, in dachas and garden plots you can find a beautiful shrub that literally attracts the eye with a lush scattering of simple flowers in different shades of lilac, lilac, red, white and cream. This is why it attracts summer residents and landscape designers because it retains its decorative qualities until the onset of cold weather. What kind of bush is this? This is astilbe, a native of Asia, which can also be found in the northern parts of the American continent. Despite the fact that this shrub easily tolerates cold, you still need to know how to prepare astilbe for winter. What are the features of caring for it in the fall? We have already discussed growing astilbe in the garden earlier, but what needs to be done in the fall for an astilbe bush, what preparation for winter the plant consists of has not yet been said. It's time to pay attention to this.

Astilbe - care on the eve of winter

When to prune a plant?

Since there are many varieties of astilbe that bloom in different time, then it cannot be said in general terms that this shrub is pruned after flowering has ended. Some plants bloom already at the end of June, while others - with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, only the flower stalks are removed. Summer residents and owners of homestead territories are in no hurry to prune, since the shrub is beautiful even without its variegated inflorescences. Its spreading leaves of unusual shape continue to delight the eye until the beginning of October.

Astilbe is pruned when the leaves of the bush begin to darken and dry out. In this form, the plant already loses its decorative qualities. How is astilbe pruned for the winter? To remove the above-ground part of the bush, you will need a pruning shears; any gardener has one in their arsenal. Before starting work, it is necessary to disinfect the tool to avoid infection of the bush various diseases. Prepare a solution of manganese: several crystals of the substance per liter of water. Treat the blades of the pruning shears on all sides. After cutting off the branches of one plant, process the tool again. So prune all the bushes.

Remove shoots, leaving young buds. They are always located slightly above the rhizome. To prevent them from being left bare, the astilbe must be hilled up. After loosening the soil around each bush, make a small mound about 4 centimeters high.

Mulching astilbe

Mulching of astilbe is carried out after pruning and hilling the plant. It is necessary to protect the root system and new buds of the bush. Mulch is a kind of blanket that covers the plant, serving as protection from cold, evaporation of residual moisture and the proliferation of weeds. Thanks to mulching, the soil at the roots remains loose, which allows it to breathe, protecting the roots not only from cold, but also from rotting. Despite its amazing endurance, astilbe needs such protection in autumn and winter, especially if we are talking about a one-year-old shrub or a four-year-old plant. During this period, the astilbe root system is either still too weak or already outdated, and therefore requires special attention.

Gardeners can use various means as mulch - peat or rotted manure, as well as sawdust or bark.

How do you fertilize astilbe in the fall?

In order for the plant to please you with its beauty in the spring, you need to add fertilizer to the soil layer for the winter. Astilbe will respond with gratitude if you use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers as top dressing. For each individual plant, 20 grams of this substance is enough. To ensure that the soil is enriched with nutrients by spring, it is recommended to use humus. Decomposing very slowly, such fertilizer will enrich the soil just in time for the onset of the plant's growing season. But if the soil on your site is rich in organic matter, you don’t have to do this.

Is it necessary to cover astilbe for the winter?

If by winter the astilbe has already settled well on your site, which is located in the middle zone, then you don’t have to worry about shelter for the plant. It is classified as cold-resistant, so it can withstand cold winters. Mulching will be quite enough. However, if the plant is planted in the northern regions, it is better to provide shelter for the winter. It is also necessary for plants that are planted more four years back. With age, their roots become exposed, and the bushes themselves lose vitality. Such astilbes can die in frost conditions that are not accompanied by snowfall.

How to make a shelter? Some gardeners use sawdust as a “blanket”, others prefer hay or dry leaves, which are abundant in every garden in the fall. When covering the soil, the main thing is to follow one rule - to use only materials given by nature. They do an excellent job of retaining heat and preventing penetration into the soil. excess moisture. And these are exactly the conditions under which you can be sure that the beautiful astilbe will safely survive the winter cold. Some gardeners cover shrubs using polyethylene. But, since it is not a breathable material, it creates Greenhouse effect. Such conditions are unacceptable for astilbe - its roots can rot in winter.

Owners of their personal plots love and appreciate astilbe for its beauty and unpretentiousness. If you have this plant at your dacha, then you should know that a healthy and strong plant will definitely survive the winter if you create it for this purpose. suitable conditions. Only young and old astilbe bushes require special attention. Take care of them as described in this article, and in the spring you will receive a reward for your efforts - once again enjoy their charm and beauty.

Residents of the northern regions also want to decorate their flower beds with beautiful perennials. For them, astilbe can become an indispensable decorative element, which can be grown in regions with the harshest climates. Flowers do not require complex care, and colorful panicles will enliven a shady corner in a garden or park. Various types: from dwarf bushes to two-meter giants, they allow you to use the flower both as a natural screen.

The rhizomes tolerate frosts well down to -37⁰ and produce bright green leaves again in the spring. At the beginning of summer, inflorescences of different shades of white, yellowish, pink and purple are formed from the buds. Astilbe will decorate a flowerbed even without flowers. Shiny carved leaves green, bronze or burgundy colors sparkle in the sun like a mirror.

Obtaining material for planting

You can obtain planting material yourself or purchase ready-made tubers. When purchasing, immediately discard rhizomes with rotten areas, too dry and very wet. Pay attention to the shoots that appear: they should be straight, not too elongated. It is better to buy not at the market, but at flower shops, there should be full information according to the characteristics of the selected variety.

Astilbe can be propagated:

  • seeds,
  • dividing the bush,
  • cuttings.

If you are not afraid of difficulties and choose the first method, do not collect seeds on your site or from your neighbors in the garden. Seed material must be prepared in special conditions, grains taken from flowers from a flower bed may lose the characteristics of their variety. If only the color of the panicles changes, the effect may even be interesting, but often with such sowing, despite excellent care, the clusters become sparse and ugly, and the flowering period is reduced. If you want to grow flowers from the very beginning, buy seeds from a reliable breeding company.


Before sowing, keep the grains on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 3 weeks, and then at the end of February or beginning of March, sprinkle them on moistened soil and leave them on the surface. Cover the container with film or glass to maintain humidity and keep at a temperature of +20⁰ until shoots appear.

When 3 true leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in separate cups, planted in open ground in the spring, and you will see flowers only after 2 years. Caring for crops is quite labor-intensive; it is better to use this method if you want to grow rare variety and you can’t find suitable escapes. You can sow seeds in open ground in early December, in the spring they will germinate.

Astilbe grows every year, flower growers replant the bushes every 5 years and separate the excess parts from them, at this moment you can take rhizomes from your neighbors and plant them on your site. It is better to do this work in early spring, then by autumn the bushes can please you with the first inflorescences.


A part of the rhizome with 2-3 emerging shoots is suitable for planting. To make the cuts heal faster, sprinkle them with crushed activated carbon. It is advisable to treat the planting material with preparations that stimulate the appearance of new root shoots. Don’t worry if the planting material falls into your hands at another time: the flower grows beautifully in any season, even during flowering.

The easiest way is to cut the cuttings with buds in the spring. The sections need to be treated with ash; a growth stimulator can be used to accelerate root development. The lower part of the stem is buried in the ground for rooting. To make the plant take root faster, plant the shoots in the greenhouse and provide them with proper care: watering, fertilizing. There young plant will remain until next spring, then it needs to be planted in a permanent place in the open ground.

Planting in open ground

Astilbe does not like bright sunlight; it will prefer to grow in the shade of the crown of trees and shrubs. It’s a good idea to plant flowers next to coniferous crops: the trees will protect from the sun and fertilize the soil with pine needles, and their greenery will become an excellent backdrop for bright inflorescences. Rhizomes do not tolerate swampy soil, where they are quickly affected by rot. Drainage and planting special varieties will help solve the problem. Try growing Japanese or Chinese astilbe; the latter can grow even in stagnant water. It’s worse when the waters are too low: dryness is destructive for plants; in order for them to survive in such conditions, it is necessary good care and frequent watering.

Advice. Astilbe loves shade, but not the complete absence of sunlight. Don't plant it in places where the sun never shines, it will stop growing there.

Find out in advance how tall bushes of this species grow in order to properly allocate a place for them in the flower garden. Astilbe varieties are divided into:

  • Dwarf plants up to 30 cm can be planted along paths, in empty spaces between bushes and under trees in the garden.
  • Low-growing ones up to 60 cm can be planted individually to create spots of color or included in flower beds.
  • Medium heights up to 90 cm are used in the same way as short ones.
  • Tall plants up to 1.5 m can become the center of a flower garden composition, cover an unsightly building or enclose a secluded bench for relaxation.


Planting astilbe in open ground consists of the following operations:

  1. Dig holes about 40 cm apart.
  2. Pour a mixture of humus, ash and bone meal onto the bottom.
  3. Plant the plants in the hole.
  4. Cover the roots lightly with compost or mulch.
  5. Water well to expand the roots and compact the soil.
  6. Bury the plant and compact the soil.
  7. Mulch the soil surface to retain moisture and make it easier to care for your plantings.

There is no need to dig holes for planting in advance; their depth should be selected according to the size of each rhizome. All shoots must be placed freely in the hole, but the planting should not be too deep: the neck must be left on the surface, it cannot be covered with soil. If you put hydrogel granules on each bush, the soil will not become waterlogged during prolonged rains and will not dry out during a long absence of precipitation. For mulching, you can take peat, chopped grass clippings, bark, etc. Mulch will not only make it easier to care for the plantings, a layer of loose material will protect the roots from freezing.

Features of caring for astilbe

Astilbe needs moist soil. If you properly mulched the soil surface when planting, you don’t need to water it too often. Maintenance becomes easier: there is no need for loosening. Earthworms and other useful underground inhabitants will rush to the nutrient substrate, which will form the correct soil structure better than you. All you have to do is look to see if a section of rhizome is peeking out of the ground and add fertile substrate in time.


Perennials decorate the flowerbed for at least 5 years, during which time the soil is depleted and the flowers begin to starve. To ensure that the plants have enough nutrition, feed the flowers with nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, and they will begin to grow greenery and form buds with fresh energy. Nitrates are needed for the growth of green mass, and phosphorus is needed for the development of flowers. When the buds begin to bloom, feed the plants with phosphorus fertilizers, and when the panicles begin to fade, water the astilbe with potassium. This element stimulates longer flowering and is necessary for proper seed development.

Fading inflorescences take away nutrients from the plant and weaken the bushes. Cut off all the shoots that you have lost decorative look, then the young panicles will bloom more luxuriantly. At the end of flowering, care comes down to removing all flower stalks so that the bush gains strength for the winter. Before the snow cover appears, cut off the above-ground part and fill the flowerbed with mulch. Winter frosts rhizomes are not afraid, but sharp temperature changes in early spring are dangerous. Only very young plantings need to be weeded, then the root system will grow and will not allow weeds through.

Plants are demanding when it comes to watering; on hot days, the soil needs to be moistened 2 times a day: in the morning and in the evening. If you extend this regime until September, the astilbe will decorate the flowerbed with bright inflorescences for much longer. If the weather is not very hot and there is no rain, flowers need to be watered daily. You can moisten the soil several times less often if you remember to pour hydrogel into the holes when planting. The granules absorb large volumes of liquid and then slowly and economically return the water to the soil.

Advice. If it is not possible to come to the dacha every day, install a drip irrigation system in the flowerbed.

Plants suffer almost no illnesses and are not attacked by pests. The only danger is the root-knot nematode. If you notice this pest, throw both the damaged flower and the soil in which the roots were developing into the fire. Sometimes clumps of foam similar to saliva can be seen on the leaves. The larvae of the slobbering pennies live in them; this pest must be combated by destroying the colonies.


Conclusion. Astilbe can be grown in open ground even in northern regions; its root system can withstand very coldy. If you correctly combine varieties with early, mid and late flowering, bright panicles will decorate the area all summer. Caring for astilbes in open ground is not difficult; their main requirement is timely and frequent watering. If you cannot go to the site every day, a drip irrigation system or adding hydrogel to the holes will help solve the problem. Mulch will be an excellent assistant in caring for a flower garden: it will protect the soil from drying out, maintain its looseness, and retard the development of weeds.

General recommendations for choosing a place for growing: an area in partial shade with moist but not swampy soil. There are varieties that can grow in full sun, on dry soils, and where water reaches the very surface of the earth. Adapts especially well to the most different conditions Chinese astilbe. Take some cuttings from different plants and try planting it in a corner where you have given up on growing anything decent. Be persistent, try different varieties, provide young plants with good care, and soon all areas unsuitable for farming will be decorated with bright multi-colored panicles.

Not all shade-loving plants have luxurious blooms, like a bright spot against the background of dark green foliage. Astilbe differs from its herbaceous shade-tolerant relatives in its lush panicle-shaped inflorescence. The dullness of the leaves gives the plant a special appearance, allowing the bright colors to show through.

About the meaning of the name astilbe and a little history

Astilbe got its name for its inconspicuous matte leaves: “A” - without, negation; “stilba” - shine, it turns out “without shine”. The Scottish botanist Lord Hamilton was the first to include the plant in the herbaceous classification, which now has about 40 species, including perennial and annual varieties.

In nature, it is found along the banks of water bodies, most often growing in deciduous forests, but can grow on the shady slopes of the highlands. East Asia is considered to be the homeland. North America, Japanese islands, where astilbe was first discovered. Wet places done green color dull, inconspicuous, but the inflorescences captivate gardeners.

European gardens became acquainted with the plant thanks to travelers who were looking for interesting, unusual things in different countries. Carl Thunberg and von Siebold brought the flower from Japan along with other exclusive products. The end of the 18th and beginning of the 19th centuries is marked by the development of park culture in Russia; recreation and walks in the fresh air become popular among the population. Having found its use in decorating shady gardens, the banks of ponds, and small artificial reservoirs, astilbe has become popular among landscape designers and florists.

Description of astilbe

How to grow astilbe in the photo Astilbe ‘Bressingham Beauty’ (x arendsii)

Astilbe is a herbaceous perennial, the upper part of which dies off in the winter, and the rhizome remains in the ground. Roots exposed during the summer period need to be covered with an additional layer of soil, and harsh climatic conditions require additional cover with special industrial material or foliage.

The height of the plant ranges from 8 cm to 2 m; you can choose a representative for any flower bed or architectural structure. Miniature dwarf species barely reach 30 cm, their flexible stem forms an arc shape, for which the flower is nicknamed “drooping”. Known varieties with drooping inflorescences are Tenberg and Lemoine. Despite the variety of colors, the choice remains on bright, saturated ones, which will look expressive on the shady side of the garden.

The leaf blade is not uniform, depending on the variety and place of growth. The color can vary from dark green in summer to brown-red in autumn. The leaf is planted on a long petiole, some varieties have a pinnate shape, others have a serrated edge. Most species are represented by a complex leaf structure, consisting of several pointed, heart-shaped leaves.

The underground part of the plant is distinguished by its heterogeneity: there are species with loose soft roots, and some are strong tree-like. Many shoots extend from the central rhizome, the lower ones die off, and new ones form on top. The plant expands its root system upward by 3-5 cm, so in the fall the roots become exposed.

Astilbe in garden design Astilbe Japonica group ‘Europa’ photo of mixborder

An original combination would be planting together with astilbes and hostas, or Volzhanka. You will get a delicate composition with various types paniculate inflorescences. Just an airy mood!

Types and varieties of astilbe with photos and names

Thanks to many years of work by breeders, several hundred hybrid varieties of astilbe have been developed. There are varietal groups specially developed for warm or cold climate zones. Some species get along well with spreading plants, while others need space. Before choosing seeds, you need to focus on weather conditions climate zone, neighboring plants of the flower bed, degree of watering.

No more than 12 species are popular; Arendsa, Chinese, Japanese, and simple-leaved are suitable for growing in the garden. They do not require special conditions and are easy to care for.

Astilbe Arendsii Astilbe Arendsii

Created by crossing David's astilbe with others, there are about 40 varieties with a long flowering period. Its inflorescences appear in early July, and the flowering season closes at the end of August. In autumn it perfectly sets off other flowering plants with dark green foliage. The bushes are powerful, reaching 1 m, with diamond-shaped or paniculate inflorescences. Well-known varieties: Amethyst, Weiss Gloria, Ruby (up to 80 cm), Diamond (up to 1 m).

Chinese astilbe Astilbe chinensis

Astilbe Chinese variety Astilbe chinensis ‘Vision in Pink’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is a herbaceous bush more than 1 m with heterogeneous green mass. The lower leaves are wide on long petioles; after flowering they have a neat appearance, filling the flowerbed with a dark green lush mass. From top to inflorescence, the leaves are short with a shiny texture. The stem ends with a 30-35 cm panicle of small, brightly colored flowers. It is represented by varieties not only of standard height (Purpulans, Rozovaya, Red), but also by low-growing varieties (Pumila Hort, up to 15 cm).

Japanese hybrid Astilbe japonica hybrids

Japanese astilbe Astilbe ‘Montgomery’ (japonica hybrid) photo in the garden

A compact plant whose decorative value comes from the green mass of green, shiny leaves. The panicles of inflorescences begin to bloom by mid-June, which is several weeks earlier than other species. Excellent cold resistance has made the species popular in risky climates with variable temperature conditions. Terry astilbe Montgomery is famous among gardeners; its inflorescences can be bright burgundy or red. There are varieties of white shade - Deutschland, pink - Reiland, pale lilac - Europe.

Simple-leaved hybrid astilbe Astilbe simplicifolia

Astilbe simplefolia ‘Hennie Graafland’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is not at all suitable for dry and hot climates, so in the steppe zone, where the sun is scorching, the plant will not have a place. Business card species are the drooping varieties Thunberg, Pricox Alba, their inflorescences create a floating web in the flowerbed. Low growth, 25-50 cm, openwork panicles of inflorescences make the plant popular in border flower beds. More often used as an accent on corners or central areas. This species can grow on the sunny side, but the color of the leaves will be lighter and the flowers will not be as rich.

Dwarf varieties can be grown in pots; they tolerate the home climate well. Some flowering arrangements are suitable as a gift. Feels better outdoors, therefore, it is advisable to take flowerpots with indoor astilbe to the balcony or terrace of a private house in the summer.

Astilbe is highly valued by professional flower growers and amateurs for its lush and long flowering and unpretentiousness. Spreading bushes look spectacular even when they are not blooming - lush green leaves of beautiful shape will decorate any garden. In this article you will learn everything about how to grow astilbe on your site.

Astilbe looks very original and rich, and during flowering it transforms the entire area. This ornamental plant with double- or triple-cut leaves dark green, located on cuttings of a red hue.

Flower growers prefer astilbe not only because of its lush flowering, but also because it, unlike many other flowers, is able to grow in the constant shade of trees, giving bright and colorful blooms. However, excessive darkening will not benefit even her. Ideally, you should plant flowers in lacy shade.

Astilbe is able to withstand harsh Russian winters, it is practically not susceptible to diseases, and even most insect pests avoid it. Perfect option for the beginning gardener.

Astilbe is a perennial plant whose homeland is considered to be Japan and Asia. In total, more than 200 varieties are known, each of which differs in size, flowering splendor and flower color. Its height can vary from 15 cm (Liliput variety) to 150 cm (Arends hybrids). The flowers are collected in panicles from 10 to 50 cm long; after flowering, fruit boxes with very small seeds inside are formed on them. Almost all varieties of astilbe bloom from June to August.

The above-ground part of astilbe dies off during the cold season, and the root waits out the winter and produces the next offspring in the spring. Every spring, buds appear at the top of the roots, giving annual growth from 3 to 5 cm, and the lower part dies off over time. To ensure comfortable development of new buds, after the above-ground part dies, soil is poured onto the exposed rhizome.

Astilbe varieties

As we said above, breeders really fell in love with lush astilbe, so much so that they bred more than 200 varieties. We will not list the advantages of each of them, but will focus on the most popular and beautiful.

Helpful advice: for growing astilbe, it is recommended to buy varieties whose height is 50-70 cm. Such large plants tolerate unfavorable climatic conditions and wintering better.

Astilbe Arends

This is a whole series of astilbes, represented by 40 hybrid varieties that appeared as a result of crossing the tall astilbe David. They are characterized by well-developed bushes up to 150 cm high. They can have a spherical or cone-shaped shape with lush foliage. The inflorescences can be of completely different shades from white to rich purple.

Hybrid astilbe differs not only in size, but also in a longer flowering period - up to 40 days. The most beautiful varieties were developed by G. Arends, so they decided to name a group of hybrids in his honor. For example, astilbe Gloria is a perennial growing up to 80 cm during the flowering period. It tolerates cold winters without problems and can grow on almost any soil with the exception of infertile sandy ones. It is distinguished by fluffy pink diamond-shaped inflorescences, lacy foliage and a delicate sweetish aroma. Gloria loves water, so it is recommended to plant it on the banks of a stream or artificial pond.

Boogie Woogie - another one hybrid variety, growing 65-70 cm. In July, it pleases the eye with bright pink diamond-shaped inflorescences, which give the plant a lush shape.

Jump and Jive - astilbe up to 50 cm high, blooming in late June and early July. Produces highly branched, dark pink inflorescences that contrast effectively with the luscious foliage.

Lilliput is a short hybrid up to 25 cm tall. Dense pinkish-salmon inflorescences bloom in mid-July and early August. Lilliput is perfect for decorating an alpine hill or a small flower garden under a window.

Chinese astilbe

Chinese astilbe can grow up to 110 cm, has large leaves at the roots and smaller ones closer to the inflorescences. It blooms in very densely clustered inflorescences up to 35 cm long with small purple flowers (rarely white or pinkish).

There are also low-growing forms of Chinese astilbe up to 25 cm tall and varieties with pyramidal inflorescences. This type of plant feels comfortable in unshaded sunny areas and in partial shade. The varieties Purpurlanze, Vision in Pink, Vision in Red are considered the most beautiful.

Japanese astilbe

Japanese astilbe is not as tall as the previous species (up to 80 cm) and is distinguished by small, densely growing leaves with a pronounced ornament. White and pink inflorescences bloom much earlier than other varieties, and even after drying they hardly lose their shape and continue to decorate the flower garden until mid-autumn.

Japanese astilbe is one of the hybrids developed by Arends in 1837. Since then, several more varieties have been cultivated that are frost-resistant and take root well in any conditions. The most famous varieties: Deutschland, Rheinland, Europe and Montgomery with scarlet and burgundy inflorescences.

Simple leaf astilbe

The simple-leaved hybrid does not tolerate arid climates quite well and needs regular and abundant watering. The bush grows 20-50 cm and produces airy, thinned inflorescences. The most beautiful varieties Praecox Alba (white lush “candles”), Bronze Elegans (delicate bronze inflorescences) and Straussenfeder (tall plant up to 90 cm with coral flowers) are considered.

Astilbe propagation

Growing astilbe at home is quite easy. It reproduces by vegetative and seed methods. During vegetative growth, division of the bush and propagation by buds is permissible. And if the vegetative method is suitable for beginning gardeners, then the seed method makes it possible to obtain new varieties of astilbe.

Propagation by seeds

Astilbe seeds are in boxes that replace lush flowers. They need to be sown in early or mid-March, having previously been subjected to stratification. To do this, the seeds are placed in a container 15 cm deep with a sand-peat mixture in a 1:1 ratio, and a centimeter layer of snow is placed on top (even “snow” from the freezer will do if the winter is dry).

The snow will gradually melt, moistening the soil, saturating it with useful microelements and immersing small seeds into it. When it finally melts, the pot should be covered with transparent plastic wrap and placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment for 20 days. During this time, the first shoots will appear, which will be hardened and will survive subsequent winterings well.

After 20 days, the astilbe sprouts are moved to a bright place with a constant temperature of about +20C. Water the seedlings very carefully, using a syringe without a needle and directing the stream right to the root.

When the seedlings get a little stronger and acquire 2-3 true leaves, plant them in small pots.

Important: varietal astilbes cannot be propagated by seed, since hybrids are not able to retain their distinctive characteristics. Plants grown in this way are used only in breeding. However, if you come across high-quality varietal seeds, there is a chance of successful cultivation using the technology described above.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Most often, astilbe is propagated by dividing the bush. This is a very simple and effective method.

How to divide a bush:

  1. Carefully dig up the soil around the plant with a radius of 15-20 cm and remove the clod of soil along with the root.
  2. Shake off excess soil to expose the roots.
  3. Using a sharp knife, cut the root into several pieces, with each piece containing at least 4 buds.
  4. Remove dried rhizomes.
  5. Plant the plants 30 cm apart and provide moderate watering daily.

If you divide the bush in early March, then by autumn the astilbe will delight you with lush flowering.

Reproduction by buds

Kidney reproduction is considered the most in a fast way. The operation should be performed in the spring, when the shoots are just beginning to grow. Carefully cut off the buds from the beginning of the rhizome and sprinkle the cut on the cutting with wood ash or coal to prevent infection from getting inside.

Plant the cuttings in a 3:1 peat-gravel mixture and cover with clear plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect. Before planting astilbe in open ground, it must get stronger and begin to develop. Plants can be planted in the garden in the fall or next spring.

Planting astilbe

Planting astilbe in open ground and caring for it does not require any special time or skills. The main thing is to choose the optimal location and immediately provide the proper conditions. Plants should be planted in late May-early June in the northern part of the garden in the sparse shade of bushes or trees. Note that some varieties like open, sunny locations or can adapt to new conditions.

If there is a natural or artificial pond on your site, plant astilbe next to it. It is better to choose loamy, light and fertile soil. The acidity should be from 5.5 to 6.5 pH (if necessary, add dolomite flour or wood ash to the soil to reduce the acidity). If hostas grow next to astilbe, their large leaves will prevent it from overheating in the hot summer.

When choosing a place to plant flowers, you should take into account the flowering time of different varieties. Thus, astilbe, blooming in July, prefers shaded areas, and early and late varieties They feel equally comfortable both in the shade and in the open sun.

In principle, any soil is suitable for astilbe, but if you want to get luxurious and long flowering, you should choose a place where groundwater lie close to the surface. You should also take care of the soil saturation with potassium and phosphorus. When making beds for propagation, apply complex fertilizers at 30 g/sq.m. m and 2 handfuls of bone meal. When planting astilbe in a flower garden, dig holes 30 cm deep and add the above fertilizers mixed with humus. For bud propagation, the soil should be mulched to 3 cm.

How to plant astilbe:

  1. Dig up the area and remove all weeds, including rhizomes.
  2. Fertilize the soil with compost, rotted peat or manure, adding 2 buckets per 1 square meter. m.
  3. If necessary, carry out liming dolomite flour(if the soil is acidic, it is better to do this in the fall).
  4. Dig holes 30 cm deep and 30 cm apart.
  5. Apply fertilizer and fill it with water.
  6. Plant the sprouts and cover them so that the thickness of the soil layer above the buds is at least 4 cm.
  7. Compact the soil and mulch with peat or humus.

Astilbe care

Caring for astilbe is as easy as propagation and planting. Her main feature is that the rhizome grows upward, and does not rush deeper, like other plants. On the contrary, the lower processes die off over time. And if you do not provide the new roots with adequate nutrition, the flower will die. Therefore, it is necessary to sprinkle the bare rhizomes with soil annually and not allow them to dry out.

The main maintenance requirement is regular watering. Periodic mulching of the soil will not only protect the rhizomes from overheating in the sun, but will also control the appearance of weeds and foreign plants.

Keep in mind that the frequency and abundance of watering depend on the type of astilbe, so carefully study the features of the selected type. During the formation of inflorescences, all varieties need increased watering, and if the summer is very hot, then it is better to water the flowers 2 times a day - in the early morning before sunrise and in the evening after sunset.

It is logical to assume that if you sprinkle the rhizomes a little with soil every year, then over time a small mound will grow in the garden, so astilbe needs to be replanted every 7-10 years.

The plant should be fed in early spring, applying nitrogen fertilizers, in July - potassium, and at the end of flowering - phosphorus. After each fertilizing, the soil must be mulched and loosened.

Plant pests

Since astilbe was “born” far beyond the borders of Russia, it has no natural enemies here, but still appeals to some local insects. There are few of them, but they can still cause significant damage to the flower harvest.

The first pest of astilbe is pennitsa. This is a small flying insect that secretes a saliva-like foamy substance and lays larvae there. As a result, due to the specific chemical composition These secretions and the vital activity of the larvae cause the astilbe leaves to wrinkle and become covered with yellow spots. As a result, the plant partially withers or dies completely. Garden chemicals - Aktara, Rogor, Karbofos or Confidor - help get rid of pennies.

Two other pests belong to the genus of nematodes - root-knot nematodes and strawberry nematodes. Strawberry settles on the leaves and flowers, as a result of which they wrinkle and become covered with brown spots, the plant slows down its growth rate, withers and dies.

Astilbe: photo

Finally, we invite you to see how you can organize a flower garden using different varieties of astilbe.