A machine for attaching a drill with your own hands. Homemade drilling machine and other accessories made from a drill. Drill stand for drill

The stand for diamond drilling allows you to fix the motor and control the feed of the bit. The stand is necessary for creating large-diameter holes, improves cutting accuracy and speeds up the work process.

What to look for when choosing a diamond drilling stand:

Maximum crown diameter.

Tilt capability - for working at an angle (e.g. 45°). There are models with stepless adjustment.

Engine Compatibility - It is important that the eye diameter is not smaller than the engine size. You also need to take into account the power of the motor - many manufacturers of racks for drilling rigs indicate this parameter in the technical specifications.

The working stroke of the carriage (length of the guide) - the drilling depth depends on this indicator.

Base mounting type.

Anchor - fixing the base with driven bolts (it is necessary to drill holes in advance).

Vacuum - along the perimeter of the plate there is a soft rubber lining, to which a fitting is connected for connecting a vacuum pump. It removes air, ensuring the drill stand is securely held in place without damaging the surface. Suitable only for flat and smooth floors.

Universal - both bolt and vacuum fastening possible.

Spacer rod - the use of a bracket and a mechanical lock allows you to secure the rack between two surfaces (ceiling and floor).

Drilling work is not particularly difficult and often does not require other equipment other than conventional drill. Therefore, home workshops may not have a drilling machine. However, if you have a home-made benchtop drilling machine, you can breathe a sigh of relief, as some of your worries will be resolved on their own.

Purpose of the drilling machine

Sometimes situations occur when electrical or hand drill is not able to provide the desired parameters of the drilled hole. Often in amateur radio practice it is necessary to make printed circuit boards, where many holes should be drilled that have a small diameter. Drill holes with a diameter of 0.5-1 millimeter manually or electric drill or a large drilling machine is inconvenient, and the drill may break.

Purchasing industrial drilling machines is not always economically feasible, and then you can make a homemade drilling machine. Many people choose mini drilling machines, because, despite the apparent complexity of the design, they are actually very simple equipment and consist of four parts.

A homemade drilling machine is intended for drilling through and blind holes in solid material, for example, drilling, reaming, countersinking, cutting out sheet materials discs and internal thread cutting. Drilling and milling machines can perform milling, surface grinding, inclined face milling and horizontal milling.

To perform the above operations, a countersink, drill, tap, reamer and other tools are used. Applying special devices And additional tools, you can cut a hole with a large diameter, bore the hole and grind the hole accurately.

Types of drilling machines

Drilling machines are of the following types: single- and multi-spindle semi-automatic, vertical drilling, jig boring, radial drilling, horizontal boring, horizontal boring, diamond boring. Models are designated by numbers and letters. The first number indicates the group to which the machine is classified, the second - the type of machine, the third and fourth - the dimensions of the machine or the dimensions of the workpiece being processed.

The letter that appears after the first digit means that a certain model of drilling machine is modernized. If the letter is located at the end, then it should be understood that a different drilling machine was made based on the main model. Among all drilling machines, we can distinguish the following main types of universal machines: multi- and single-spindle, radial and horizontal drilling.

Depending on the area of use, there are special and universal drilling equipment. Specialized machines for mass production and large-scale industry are also widely used, which are manufactured on the basis of universal machines by equipping them with multi-spindle thread-cutting and drilling heads and thanks to the automation of the work cycle.

Drilling machine design

Drilling machine, like other technological machines, consists of the following components: transmission mechanism, engine, controls and working element. The transmission mechanism is designed to transmit movement from an electric motor to a working element, which is a drill, which is mounted in a chuck mounted on a spindle - a rotating shaft.

Rotation to spindle from electric motor transmitted using a belt drive. By turning the handle, the chuck and drill bits can be lowered or raised using a rack and pinion drive.

On the front panel of the drilling machine there are buttons to turn the electric motor off and on. The design of the drilling machine is quite simple: the machine is turned on by pressing one of the outer buttons, depending on the desired direction of spindle rotation; the machine can be turned off by pressing the middle red button.

A vertical column screw is fixedly attached to the base of the machine. By turning the handle, you can move the spindle head up or down along the screw; the second handle serves to fix it in the required position. Control the depth of blind holes using the provided scale.

Depending on the workpiece material, it is necessary different speed drilling. To do this, it is customary to set a certain spindle rotation speed by transferring it to the pulleys various diameters drive belt. Factory shops use more complex drilling machine designs than those just discussed.

Operating principle of the machine

Before drilling using a homemade machine, you need to remove all unnecessary things from the workbench. The workpiece with the marked centers of the holes must be secured in a vice. Next, insert a drill of the required diameter into the chuck and secure it with a special key. To check the correctness of the work performed, the machine is turned on for a while.

If you have installed the drill correctly, its tip will not describe a circle when rotating. If it is installed skewed and its beating occurs, then the drilling machine must be turned off and the drill secured according to the instructions of the drilling machine. Then turn the feed handle, lower the drill and install the vice with the workpiece in such a way that the core coincides with the tip of the drill.

Turn on the machine and drill a hole, press the feed handle smoothly, without much effort or jerking. When drilling through hole place the workpiece on wooden beam ok, so that the drill doesn’t break and the machine table doesn’t get damaged.

When drilling a deep hole, remove the drill from the hole from time to time and cool it by dipping it in a bowl of coolant. It is recommended to reduce the pressure on the handle at the end of drilling. After drilling the hole, smoothly turn the feed wheel, raise the spindle to its highest position and turn off the machine.

Making a drilling machine

A drilling machine is easy to make with your own hands. In everyday life, it is beneficial to have on hand devices and tools for performing carpentry and plumbing work. After the obsolescence of many household appliances the owners still have a lot of useful spare parts and electric motors, from which you can, if desired, make such useful equipment as a drilling machine.

Drilling machine from a drill

The most simple solution You will be able to assemble a mini drilling machine with your own hands using a drill. The drill weighs a little, so the stand can be made from chipboard, boards or sheet metal. For comfortable work on such homemade machine it is necessary that it be quite massive to absorb the vibration of the drill and sufficiently stable.

It is important to obtain a right angle between the holder and the base. Typically, the drill is attached using two clamps (it is better to place a rubber gasket between the clamp and the drill) to a board that moves along guides that are attached to this movable board and to another stationary board. The downward and upward movement of the movable board is controlled using a lever associated with it.

The downward movement of the lever can be limited by a block that supports the lever in the lower position. The fixed board is attached to the horizontal pipe through a flange. The horizontal pipe is attached through a square to a vertical pipe, which is attached through a flange to the base of the machine (to a thick wide board) or to a workbench.

The height of the bar, which limits the lower position of the lever, is adjustable, which allows you to change the drilling depth. Make 4 holes in the movable board that are intended for fixing the drill clamps. On the side facing the stationary board, narrow slats are glued, which are lubricated with wax for better glide.

The drill, in addition to the clamps, is fixed with two rods that support it from below. Since with such fastening the shape of the drill does not strictly ensure vertical position drills, you need to glue a strip to the board to compensate for this.

To ensure free movement of the drill, the guides must be prepared strictly in the vertical direction. They can be metal profiles made of aluminum, which are screwed with threaded screws to the boards along the entire length. Having assembled a strong and stable structure, it is necessary to fasten the profile guides strictly perpendicular to the plane of the base and parallel to each other.

In the photo of self-made drilling machines, the attachment points to the moving platform of the drill and the installation method for the guide profiles are clearly visible. The guides must ensure high-quality pressing of the movable board to the stationary board. The main condition for this is the absence of distortions and backlash.

When assembling the lever, remember that you cannot tighten the moving parts; it is customary to use a second nut to lock the nuts. The rail that leads to the moving board from the lever should be rounded at the end. After reducing the pressure forces, to automatically raise the drill to the top position, it is necessary to set the springs to compression or tension.

One end of the spring is attached to the horizontal pipe with wire, and the other end is attached to the bottom of the movable board. When the spring is not flexible enough and a stationary board interferes, this is done through a rope.

Machine made from a washing machine motor

Drawing of a drilling machine, which is assembled based on a motor from washing machine, differs from the one discussed above in the most complex mechanics and type of electric drive. An asynchronous motor from an old washing machine is heavier and has more vibration. The shaking will be stronger the further away the engine is from the rack.

Intense vibration causes inaccurate drilling and drill breakage. There are two options - make a powerful frame so that when the drill is lowered, the drive also lowers, or place the motor motionless closer to the holder stand, then only the working part of the drilling machine will move.

The second method involves a more complex execution. Here you need a pulley and a belt that allow you to regulate the rotation speed. There are many solutions without a belt drive with a drive located against the wall. They are much easier to assemble, but the assembly discussed below is characterized by non-standard approach, and certain techniques used may be helpful.

Vibrations still remain, but they are so minimal that when drilling iron with a 0.7 mm drill, the drill remains intact. At home, one can only dream of high precision in the manufacture of such mechanisms; it is still necessary to strive for maximum fit of parts. The characteristics of the drilling machine and its performance will depend on this.

The moving part of the machine consists of an axial hexagon, a tube suitable size, a clamping ring and two bearings and a tube with internal thread to secure the cartridge. A pulley is subsequently placed on the hexagon, part of the future transmission system. The tube must first be sawed lengthwise at both ends with a grinder, and make the cuts on top deep enough to ensure reliable adhesion to the hexagon.

The entrance must be made tight and driven in with a hammer. If donning occurs without special effort, then you need to select another handset. Then fill the compression ring and bearings. The height adjustment system consists of a pipe with notches and a gear. To make cuts accurately, you need to roll out the plasticine and drive a gear along it.

An imprint will appear that can be easily measured and appropriate markings made on the adjusting pipe. The length of this ladder should correspond to the maximum height to which the drill can be raised. Press the axle with hexagon and bearings into the slotted pipe.

Such a design will move back and forth vertically in a stationary frame tube as the gear rotates. Simultaneously carried out in horizontal plane rotation of the axis through a belt drive. The frame is made from a metal corner using bolts. The entire structure is mounted on the wall.

And finally, remember that the first option for assembling a drilling machine is preferable. The assembly option proposed by the second can be supplemented or improved. However, such a simplified solution deserves attention.

The advantages of the device are as follows:

Cheap - costs an order of magnitude or two less than industrial price (from the store).
Availability of parts - everything can be used in the design, from a small block to parts from old machines and cars.
A variety of designs in popular publications and on the World Wide Web.
The opportunity for creativity is to create your own reliable multifunctional drill machine that will surpass all published models.

Disadvantages of devices:

When assembling many published models, parts made on machines or components of old units (machines) are required. This increases the cost of production.
Backlash of parts due to loose installation and fit.
A drill tripod does not allow you to perform a number of other jobs (for example, drilling at an angle, etc.).

Universal machine stand

This device is designed to perform various kinds of drilling, turning and other specialized work that the motor and gearbox of the drill can handle. If the tool is powerful, then it can handle all types of work.

The presented device, if it is intended only for drilling, is made (its main parts) of wood. In case of production universal stand– make it from iron or steel plates. The device consists of the following main components:

The bed serves as the main supporting element of the entire machine.
Stand – designed to secure a carriage with a drill and allows you to move it using a handle and additional elements.
Handle – serves to move the carriage along the longitudinal axis of the stand, which ensures the supply of the rotating tool to the part.
Additional components are designed to expand the capabilities of the rack and give it new qualities.

This machine is perhaps the easiest to install and set up, and additional components allow you to turn it into a universal device that will appeal to many home-made craftsmen. Let's look at the main parts of the machine.

DIY drill stand

This node represents a plate of 10 mm (or more) metal or 20 mm (or more)

tree. The greater the power of the tool (drill), the more massive the base should be. The dimensions of the bed depend on the work performed and can vary:

For vertical drilling– 500x500 mm;
for other works – 1000x500 mm.

But these dimensions are not final and can be changed to suit your needs.

The cheapest and easiest to replicate frame is cut from a 20-40 mm piece of wood or made from 10-20 mm steel. The main post is fixed to it (positioned vertically) and a support made of segments of the same thickness. Both parts are screwed with screws or screws to each other and from below (through the frame).

Advice: For reliability, the stand and support should be connected to each other using metal corners.

Drill stand for drill

It is made of 20-40 mm boards or 10-20 mm steel plates. Its length is 50-75 cm and depends on the size of the drill used, and its width is 20 cm. A mechanism for moving the drill along the longitudinal axis with a device for securing the drill is mounted on the stand.

The procedure for assembling the rack is as follows:

a support is strengthened on the frame;
a vertical stand is screwed to the base, which is then screwed to the support;
on the vertical, the bases of two guides (telescopic furniture), for example from a table, are strengthened;
Next, a carriage with a device for securing the drill is screwed to the movable part of the guides.

Advice: When choosing guides, check that there is no lateral play.

The length of the carriage also depends on the dimensions of the drill and is 50-100 cm. It is made of a board or plate of steel of the same thickness and width as the stand. The carriage can be made in two versions:

№ 1. The drill is secured with clamps.

The figure shows the fastening of a conventional electric. drills. The board is drilled, clamps are threaded into the holes. The clamps are tightened using a suitable screwdriver.

№ 2. The drill is mounted on a special block.

The block is a plate screwed perpendicular to the axis of the carriage and reinforced metal corners. A hole is drilled in the block 0.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the “front” of the drill and a slot is made to securely fix the tool.

The hole is drilled with a special nozzle (cylindrical) or as follows:

measure the diameter of the tool and draw a circle;
a series of holes are drilled inside the circle (closer to the line);
use a file, knife or file to cut through the remaining partitions;
Use a semicircular or round file to level the circle, bringing it to the required caliber.

Movement mechanism

The main elements of this node:

Handle – used to move the drill towards the workpiece.
Spring – designed to return the carriage to its original state.

The movement mechanism can be made in two versions:

The spring is located directly at the handle.
Two springs are located below - in the grooves of the carriage guides.

2 are screwed to the main post at one edge metal plates, between which the axis for the handle is inserted (you can use an M8-M12 screw).
On the other edge there are also screwed plates, between which a spring is installed. To limit the possibility of it jumping to the side, there are pins, one of which is installed on the stand, and the second on the handle, which moves between the plates.
The handle has a longitudinal groove for normal operation mechanism.
The carriage has a pin or axle attached to it to provide vertical movement.

2 Option 2.

And in this case, side plates and the central pin of the handle are used, but the springs are located in the grooves of the furniture guides, which are slightly modified. Ordinary metal corners are inserted and screwed into the grooves to prevent the springs from slipping deep into the guides.

The operation of the mechanism is simple. When you press the handle (lever), the carriage with the drill moves down, ensuring drilling of the part. During the working stroke of the carriage, the springs are compressed, storing energy. When the lever is released, the spring energy is directed back and the carriage moves vertically upward.

Additional nodes

By modifying the stand with a simple assembly, you will be able to drill holes at an angle and perform simple turning and milling work on wood.

Milling work

To perform small milling work, it is necessary that the part moves horizontally. To ensure the supply, a second identical stand is used, which is mounted horizontally on the frame. Only instead of a drill, a vice should be attached to it.

The distance from the edge of the part to the groove being cut is limited by the distance from the drill to the vertical guides. For horizontal feed, you can use a lever (using a handle) system, but to avoid difficulties, find the machine table feed mechanism (screw).

Angled hole drilling and turning work

To perform these operations, it is necessary to supplement the rack with a rotating mechanism, which represents an additional plate (AP) with holes located in an arc. All parts of the feed mechanism and the carriage are placed on this additional plate, which rotates on an axis mounted on the main stand.

The main angles of inclined holes are 30°, 45°, 60°. Swivel mechanism you can do this:

first, a hole for the axle is drilled on the stand and in the rotating plate;
then, measuring the angles with a protractor or some other measuring device, drill holes in a circle on the DP;
then align the axial holes of both plates and secure them with a screw;
after that, 3 holes are drilled through the DP on the rack, as shown in the figure.

The additional plate is rotated to the desired angle and fixed on the back side of the rack with three pins or screws with nuts (the latter is preferable).

Turning work is carried out by turning the additional plate horizontally. Due to the small size of the drill chuck, large-caliber parts cannot be processed with it.

It does not always make sense or expediency to buy a factory-made drilling machine. You can make a vertical drilling machine from a drill with your own hands. To do this you will need a drill and materials to make a stand. Such equipment is recommended for use in home workshops or garages, when drilling is not the main operation or is performed quite rarely and the accuracy of the hole can be neglected.

To speed up the process, just buy a specialized stand for a drill at a tool store. The result is something like a household level vertical drilling machine, which is not inferior in drilling accuracy to machines for home workshops.

The photo shows factory-made drill stands. They can be purchased at any online tool store at prices starting from $200.

The article is intended to give you ideas on how to make a drilling machine yourself from a drill, so we do not give a clear algorithm for its manufacture, because it is made from scrap materials: some craftsmen will have it, others will not. Therefore, we give basic ideas, and everyone will apply their own constructive solutions and make your own vertical homemade drilling machine.

If you are not looking for easy ways, then we will make a homemade stand. The stand can be made of wood or metal. Wood will be cheaper and easier to manufacture, but durability will suffer.

Metal ones are more complex, but have an incomparably longer service life and strength characteristics. The choice of stand material also depends on the workpieces being processed: when constantly drilling metal, it is better to make a metal one.

Machine assembly

Metal racks are assembled from corners for the carriage, square pipe 50x50 for the stand and 10x10 for the drill bracket, strip for the base and lugs. The base and bracket are welded, after which all elements are assembled and bolted together. It is recommended to make several brackets with different adapters (clamping rings) for different types drills. The carriage moves along the rod using a steel cable wound around the handle drum. So that the carriage does not have play and does not fall under own weight down, drill it, cut a thread and tighten a bolt (or several bolts). This selects the backlash between the carriage and the stand of the future drilling machine. The handle for moving the carriage is made from rolled products with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm.

Having several brackets with different clamping rings allows you to flexibly select drills and process almost any material.

In the future, home-made equipment can be upgraded and modified, for example, by marking or installing a scale that will indicate the length of movement of the carriage. This helps when drilling blind holes.

There are several mounting methods:

several clamps;
on metal bracket in the hole under the neck of the drill.

Video of a design version of a drill on a wooden stand.

The easiest way to make a homemade drilling structure at home

A homemade drilling machine made from a drill will never replace a factory one and will always be inferior in build quality and drilling accuracy. The main advantage of homemade is low price, the ability to drill holes when the factory machine is not available for one reason or another.

An electric drill is universal tool, since its chuck can hold not only drills and cutters, but also wooden parts, if the device is used in a lathe. The need for a drilling machine arises when a home craftsman needs to drill holes strictly at right angles. In this case, the master is faced with a choice: buy a ready-made stand for drilling or make a machine from a drill with his own hands. We will tell you how to implement the second option.

When making a stand to secure a drill, you need to understand the principle of its operation and show imagination in the manufacture of its individual components.

Rack option No. 1

For example, below are instructions for making a device for a drill from simple scrap materials.

Rack option No. 2

The figure below shows another homemade drilling machine, the stand for which can be made from thick plywood, and the remaining parts from wooden beams.

The role of the guide in a drilling machine made from a drill is played by aluminum profile. But, if you don’t find such a profile, you can replace it with furniture guides(telescopic).

Rack option No. 3

If you have some lying around your house Soviet era photo enlarger, then it can serve as the basis for a stand for a drill. This design already has rigid guides, as well as a gear mechanism that ensures vertical movement of the carriage along them.

You only need to modify the design a little by attaching clamps to the carriage and comfortable handles to the height adjuster.

Well, if you don’t have the desire to design accessories for a drill with your own hands, or you simply don’t have time for it, but you still need to drill a hole with a drill strictly at a right angle, then you can buy a ready-made stand for about 1,200 rubles.

Other options for drill machines

The drilling machine can serve as a motor for constructing various woodworking tools. Let's look at what other machine you can make from a drill with your own hands.

Fraser

To make a router using a drill, you will need to take a regular clamp used for water pipes.

You will also need to find some chipboard (you can use a slab of old furniture), and then assemble a structure such as in the figure below.

This kind of router can be used, for example, for milling a groove in the end of a table top, for stuffing T-profile or for shaped milling of the ends of wooden parts. Of course, good quality Milling in this way is difficult to achieve, since the device does not have enough revolutions. For comparison, the spindle of a router can rotate at a speed of 26,000 rpm. and more, thanks to which it is achieved high quality surface treatment.

You can also make a milling machine from a drill if you clamp it in such a way as shown in the figure below. In this way, a quarter is selected in a block for inserting glass, for example, when making a window.

To turn small, round parts, you can make a device in which a drill will impart rotational movement to the workpiece. The most in a simple way To perform turning work on wood can be called the one shown in the figure below.

This wood lathe can be made in minutes. To make it you will need a wooden beam or board, a couple of corners, and a sharpened bolt.

More “advanced” drawing lathe, which you can make from a drill with your own hands, is presented below.

If you do not have the opportunity to make such a device from metal, as shown in the drawing, then you can get by a pair of clamps, attached to the workbench.

The first clamp with a clamp can be used to secure the device to the workbench.

As a clamp for a drill, you can use a small vice with a clamp clamped in it. With a second clamp you need to clamp the homemade tailstock with a screw screwed into it to center and support the part. The end of the screw should be ground to a cone.

As a tool, a block of the required thickness is pressed against the workbench.

It is also not difficult to design a homemade lathe from wooden blocks, as shown in the following figure.

For precision turning work with long and large parts, it is recommended to make a lathe from metal profile (square).

When manufacturing this design, it is necessary to accurately maintain the alignment of the headstock and tailstock. The unit can be secured to the headstock with a pair of clamps.

The tailstock must be movable so that parts of different lengths can be processed.

The tool rest should also be movable and move both along the bed and across it so that it can be moved closer to the workpiece to reduce leverage. If the lever is too large, the tool may be torn out of your hands and the part out of the chuck, which can result in serious injury.

It is important that the support platform rotates, for example, when processing a part at an angle.

If you make such a machine, it can easily be converted into a universal one. It is enough to clamp an emery or felt wheel in the device’s chuck, and the structure turns into a grinding machine from a drill. In the same way, you can make a sharpening unit from it.

More simple model universal machine easy to make from regular planed boards. To do this, you need to cut it into parts and assemble the structure, as shown in the figure.

This is what the bed looks like if you remove the table.

The thickness of the board used in the design is 2 cm. The length of the product is 50 cm. The width of the device is 20 cm.

The height of the stands is 9 and 14 cm. The height can be different and depends on the diameter of the grinding wheel that will be used. The entire structure is screwed together with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to coat the joints of parts with glue before assembly.

There are 2 clamps attached to the top of the posts, one of which is cut and bent. A cut piece was used as a soft pad. polyethylene tube, nailed down with nails.

It is necessary to make a small cut (groove) on the bed and expand it with bottom side so that the head of the coupling bolt does not interfere.

Next, you should twist 2 planks measuring 20 X 27 cm with a block between them, the thickness of which is 4 cm (this way you will get a table). The block is needed so that the hand can move freely between the planes while screwing the table to the frame.

A groove is also cut in one plank to secure the table to the base. After this, the table can be attached using a screw and washer.

Thanks to the grooves, the table can be moved to the required distance to the chuck. If the table is rotated, it will be possible to move it across the machine. The length of the groove determines the distance the table can be moved.

After attaching the drilling machine, you will receive a universal fixture.

Now, if you clamp the drill chuck grinding wheel— you will receive a grinding unit. The presence of reverse in the unit during grinding is desirable, but not necessary.

If you install abrasive disc(for metal) from a grinder, then it becomes possible to cut metal rods. When cutting metal, be sure to wear safety glasses. You can also install a toothed cutter and use it to cut thin plastic.

When installing abrasive wheel- it turns out to be a sharpener.

This unit can be used for sharpening knives, drills, plane knives, and also for sharpening tools for a wood lathe.

If you fix the guides on the table and install a drill in the chuck, you will get an additive machine.

Thus, the drill, thanks to the clamping chuck, is the basis for creating machines for various purposes. This increase in functionality of a conventional drill will be very useful for home handyman, at whose disposal various technological operations appear.